Dictionary of Textiles [PDF]

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A Word A.B.C. SILK



AAL



AATCC



ABACA FIBRE ABACAXI FIBRE ABASSI FIBRE



ABATTRE



ABBOT



Short Description Description fabrics A dainty, A dainty, opaque opaque fabric in fabric in plain plain weave weave, with cotton warp and spun silk weft. Made in white and solid colours, they are used mainly for underwear and as lining material. processes, A reddish colour A reddish colour operations dyestuff dyestuff obtained from the roots of shrubs morinda tinctoria and morinda citrifolia. general American American Association of Association of Textile Chemists Textile Chemists and Colorists and Colorists fibers, filaments, See Manila See Manila hemp. yarns hemp. fibers, filaments, pineapple fibre The Brazilian name yarns for pineapple fibre fibers, filaments, A variety of A variety of yarns Egyptian cotton. Egyptian cotton. Pure white, about 3cm long brilliant staple of good quality. fabrics A French term A French term for for types of types of quilted or quilted or depressed effects depressed in fabrics effects in fabrics fabrics Also called Also called Monk’s Monk’s cloth. A cloth. A heavy, heavy, rough rough surfaced, surfaced, hardwearing, hardwearing, loosely woven, Category



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ABBOTSFORD



fabrics



ABDIG



fabrics



ABERCROMBIE



fabrics



loosely woven, basket weave fabric basket weave in solid colours. fabric in solid Sometimes stripes colours. or plaids are woven into the fabric. Made of cotton or linen. It tends to lose shape under pressure, due to the looseness of weave. Use confined to curtains, loose covers, etc Dress-weight Dress-weight fabric fabric with with muted check muted check design. One side is design. slightly napped. Usually made from cotton, wool, viscose, modal or acrylic A plain weave A plain weave dress fabric dress fabric made with cotton warp and a wool filling. Scottish tartan Scottish tartan fabric woven fabric woven with a with a blue and blue and black black ground ground and green and green and and white overwhite overcheck. Medium check. weight, usually not heavy enough for outerwear. Originally all-wool, but now may contain a proportion of polyester or acrylic fibre. Used for kilts, pleated skirts, bias-cut skirts, pinafore dresses, children’s clothes.



3 ABERDEEN



ABESTRINE



ABRADED YARN



ABRASION



ABRASION MARK



ABRASION RESISTANCE



ABRASIVE FABRICS



fibers, filaments, yarns



A yarn size A yarn size numbering numbering system system for for heavy yarns of heavy yarns of wool, jute, etc. now wool, jute, etc. used only occasionally. fabrics A fabric name A fabric name that that may be may be applied to applied to cloth cloth made of made of asbestos. asbestos. fibers, filaments, Continuous Continuous filament yarns filament yarn yarn been been subjected subjected to to abrading abrading action, action generally to provide it with hairiness characteristic of a staple-fibre yarn processes, The wearing The wearing away operations away of any part of any part of a of a material material by rubbing against another surface. defects Fabric defect. Fabric defect. Also called Chafe mark. An area of localised wear, where the fabric has been damaged by friction fibers, filaments, The degree to The degree to yarns,fabrics which a yarn or which a yarn or fabric is able to fabric is able to withstand withstand surface surface wear wear due to rubbing or chafing with another surface. Comparative abrasion resistance of various fibres are: fabrics A general term A general term for for cotton fabrics cotton fabrics used used as as backings for backings for various abrasive



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ABRAWAN



ABSOLUTE HUMIDITY



ABSORBENCY



ABSORBENT COTTON



ABSORBENT FINISH



various abrasive and polishing and polishing agents. Usually agents sheetings and drills are employed extensively and twills in smaller quantities. The fabric is coated on one side with emery carboraundum or other such abrasive grit. These are largely used on industrial machine polishing of metals. fabrics very fine grade Name for a very flowing Dacca fine grade flowing muslin Dacca muslin general The mass of The mass of water water vapour vapour present in a present in a unit unit volume of volume of moist moist air. air. general The propensity The propensity of a of a material to material to take in take in and and retain a liquid, retain a liquid usually water, in the pores and interstices of the material fibers, filaments, Cotton fibres Cotton fibres from yarns from which which natural wax natural wax and and fats are fats are removed by removed by chemical treatment chemical to make it treatment absorbent. Used mainly for surgical dressings processes, A type of A type of finishing operations finishing in in which the fabric which the fabric is treated is treated chemically to chemically increase its ability



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ABSORPTION



ABSORPTION FABRIC ABSTERGENT



ACACIA



ACCELERANT



ACCELOROTOR



ACCEPTABLE QUALITY LEVEL



to absorb liquids processes, A process in A process in which operations which one one material (the material (the absorbent) takes in absorbent) takes or incorporates in or another material incorporates (the absorbate) another material within itself; such (the absorbate) as the absorption of within itself moisture by fibres. fabrics See Brattice See Brattice cloth cloth processes, A cleaning A cleaning operations substance. substance. See Detergent. fibers, filaments, Coarse bast Coarse bast fibres yarns fibres taken from taken from a genus a genus of of shrubs and trees shrubs and trees found in warm found in warm climates. These climates. shrubs also yield printing gums and some natural dyestuffs processes, A substance A substance, operations such as a usually a swelling swelling agent, agent, which, added to a dyebath or printing paste, accelerates the diffusion of a dye into a substance. Also may be used to increase the rate of reaction in chemical finishing apparatus, A device for A device for rapid equipage, tools rapid evaluation evaluation of of abrasion abrasion resistance resistance of of textiles. textiles. general the process Also referred as AQL. In acceptance average at sampling, the which the risk of



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ACCORDION FABRIC



ACCORDION PLEATS



ACCORDION STITCH



ACETA



rejection is maximum fraction called the of non-conforming Producer’s risk. items at which the process average can be considered satisfactory; the process average at which the risk of rejection is called the Producer’s risk. fabrics Weft-knitted Weft-knitted fabric, fabric, showing showing a figure a figure design design in two or in two or more more colours, that colours is produced on one set of needles by knitting and missing and in which tuck loops are introduced to eliminate long lengths of floating thread at the back. garments, made- Narrow straight Narrow straight ups, assemblies pleats in a fabric pleats in a fabric usually parallel usually parallel to to one another one another. Used mainly in skirts and dresses. fabrics A term used to A term used to describe fabrics describe fabrics produced on produced on circular top circular top (single (single needle needle jersey) jersey) machines. The machines. pattern incorporates knit, tuck and welt fibers, filaments, Spun acetate Spun acetate yarns containing containing casein. casein Increased strength, rough surfaces, and crimp are achieved by changing physical properties



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ACETATE



fibers, filaments, yarns



Manufactured fibre, in which the fibre-forming substance is cellulose acetate.



ACETATE ANHYDRIDE



³



Anhydrous acetic acid.



ACETATE DYES



³



Acetate yarns and fabrics, when developed first, required a special type of dye since they could not be coloured with types then known.



ACETATE FABRIC



fabrics



Woven and knitted fabrics, made of acetate fibres.



of the fibre. Manufactured fibre, in which the fibreforming substance is cellulose acetate. Where not less than 92 % of the hydroxyl groups are acetylated, the term Triacetate may be used as a generic description of the fibre Anhydrous acetic acid. Used in the manufacture of cellulose acetate. Acetate yarns and fabrics, when developed first, required a special type of dye since they could not be coloured with types then known. A separate group of dyes was developed which became known as acetate colours. These dyes have been found useful for dyeing synthetic fibres. The term Disperse dyes has been widely adopted to describe them more accurately. Woven and knitted fabrics, made of acetate fibres. Comfortable to wear and has very good draping



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ACETONE



³



ACETYL



³



properties. Not affected by moths or mildew. Inflammable, but many fabrics, especially those for furnishings, are made with greatly reduced flammability. On its own, acetate is not hardwearing. It creases, but tends to recover well. Often mixed with other fibres including cotton, viscose and nylon, to produce very interesting textures and colourings. Used for a wide variety of uses including dressfabrics, linings, ribbons and furnishing materials. A volatile, A volatile, flammable flammable organic organic liquid. liquid. It is used as a solvent for organic compounds, and in the manufacture of acetate staple and yarn, where it forms the solvent for the cellulose acetate compound in the dry spinning process Basic element in Basic element in acetic acid, acetic acid, cellulose acetate cellulose acetate and triacetate. and triacetate.



9 ACETYLATED COTTON



ACETYLATION



ACEYTUNI ACHROMATIC COLOURS



ACID



ACID COLOURS



fibers, filaments, Cotton fibre that Cotton fibre that yarns has been has been chemically chemically processed processed so that the fibre has the dyeing and waterresistant qualities of acetate staple. See Acetylation processes, The process by The process by operations which an acetyl which an acetyl radical is radical is introduced into introduced into an an organic organic molecule; molecule the process of combining cellulose with acetic acid. See Partial acetylating. fabrics A medieval A medieval name name for satin. for satin. general Colours such as Colours such as grey, slate, grey, slate, white as white opposed to the Chromatic colours such as blue, yellow, red ³ A chemical A chemical compound compound which which will will neutralise an neutralise an alkali. Acids are alkali. commonly used in bleaching, dyeing and printing. Strong acids dissolve vegetable fibres ³ fibres containing Anionic dyes cationic groups. characterised by substantivity for protein, polyamide or other fibres containing cationic groups. Usually applied from an acidic or neutral



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ACID FADING



processes, operations



ACID MILLING COLOURS



³



ACID RESISTANCE



fabrics



See Atmospheric fading. Dyestuffs



A quality which certain fibres have more than other



ACME



fibers, filaments, A variety of raw yarns cotton that has been grown in Mississippi.



ACRILAN



fibers, filaments, A trade name for



aqueous dye-bath. Acid dyes are: suitable for wool, silk, polyamide, and elastomeric fibres suitable for cellulose acetate and cellulose triacetate, but the usage is declining suitable for viscose rayon fibres, but lacks fastness and now obsolete See Atmospheric fading. Dyestuffs that when applied to wool, are fast to soaping, milling, fulling, scouring finishes. A quality which certain fibres have more than others; e.g. the animal fibres are certainly more acid-resistant than the vegetable fibres, and a high degree of acidresistance is found in several of the new man-made fibres such as acrylic fibre and vinyl resin fibre. A variety of raw cotton that has been grown in Mississippi. The staple is fairly long and but of inferior quality. A trade name for a



11 yarns



ACROMION



ACRYLIC



a brand of brand of acrylic acrylic staple staple and filament and filament fibres fibres garments, made- Garment-related Garment-related ups, assemblies term. term. See under Garment sizing system fibers, filaments, Generic name of Generic name of a yarns a manufactured manufactured fibre, fibre, in which in which the fibrethe fibre-forming forming substance substance is any is any long chain long chain synthetic polymer synthetic composed of at polymer least 85 % by composed of at weight of recurring least 85 % by acrylonitrile units. weight of Of all man-made recurring fibres it is the acrylonitrile closest to wool. units. Used alone or with natural and other man-made fibres to make wool-like fabrics and jersey and other knitted fabrics. Acrylic fibres are flammable, but not dangerously. It melts when ignited and decompose without the ‘dripping’ found in nylon or polyester. Virtually all presentday acrylic fibres contain along with polyacrylonitrile, a very small proportion of another constituent (the identity of which is usually not disclosed by the



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ACRYLIC FABRIC



fabrics



manufacturer), for improving the processing efficiency, especially of dyeing. The variation of these extra constituents, in composition and proportion, causes different response to processes, such as dyeing, between various types of acrylic fibre very much greater than with other types of synthetic fibre. Soft, light, bulky Soft, light, bulky with woolly with woolly handle. handle Absorbent, warm, resistant to mildew and moths. Easily washed and drycleanable. Fabrics have tendency to ‘pill’ after some wear and knitted acrylics easily lose their shape. Skirts may ‘seat’ and trousers may ‘bag’ at the knees. The sensitivity of acrylic materials to stretching when in warm moist condition demands careful washing temperature control and flat drying. Ironing of these fabrics is done carefully at a cool setting to avoid



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ACRYLIC JERSEY



fabrics



Knitted fabric, soft, warm, absorbent, and even warmer if the back is brushed or fleeced.



ACRYLIC KNIT



fabrics



A wide variety of fabrics made from acrylic fibre, but often containing small percentages of other fibres



distortion and glazing. Knitted fabric, soft, warm, absorbent, and even warmer if the back is brushed or fleeced. Usually in bright stripes as the right side is rather dull and unattractive if in plain colours. Used for leisure clothes, jogging suits, robes and dressing gowns. Not hardwearing; trousers may ‘bag’. A wide variety of fabrics made from acrylic fibre, but often containing small percentages of other fibres. Linen and suede fibres are often added to acrylic to make the fabrics look better, and also to provide stability. Designs include fine and heavy ribs, lacy and crochet effects and open, often marled effect fabrics resembling handknits. Though soft and comfortable to wear; most tend to lose their shape. Trousers ‘bag’ and dresses ‘seat’, hence they are allowed to re-shape between wearings.



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ACRYLIC RESIN



ACRYLIC SHEER



ACRYLIC-VINYL



ACRYLONITRILE



ACTINIC DEGRADATION



Used for leisure clothes, sweaters, tops and sweater dresses. ³ A polymer of A polymer of acrylonitrile. acrylonitrile. Used in the manufacture of man-made fibres as a finish and size. fabrics Heavy, rather Heavy, rather stringy open- stringy open-weave weave vision vision net, for net, for curtains curtains, often in two-colour plain weave. Acrylic fibre is very soft and difficult to press, but firmer net of this kind contains about 20% of flax, which improves its texture and handle. Others contain polyester, which behaves like scaffolding fibers, filaments, A man-made A man-made fibre yarns fibre made of copolymer consisting of 40% acrylonitrile and 60% of vinyl chloride. Available in staple form; used in industrial fabrics, blankets, knit goods, etc ³ The raw material The raw material for an important for an important range of man- range of man-made made fibres. fibres. A liquid derived from air and natural gas. processes, A weakening or A weakening or operations deterioration of deterioration of fibre fibre due to exposure to



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ACTINIC RESISTANCE



processes, operations



Ability of textile to retain strength



ACTUAL BREAKING STRESS AD-HOCK



general



See under Breaking stress. Block printing in colours over a Jacquard design.



processes, operations



ADD-ON



general



The mass of solids, of any material, chemical finish, coating, sizing, etc., that is left on a given weight of fabric after impregnation and drying.



ADDITION POLYMERISATION



processes, operations



The formation of a polymer by reaction of a compound or compounds without the formation of



ultraviolet rays of the sun particularly, or artificial light. Ability of textile to retain strength and desist deterioration when exposed to sunlight. See under Breaking stress. 1. Same as Overprint. 2. Block printing in colours over a Jacquard design. The mass of solids, of any material, chemical finish, coating, sizing, etc., that is left on a given weight of fabric after impregnation and drying. Besides impregnation, fabric may be sprayed, lick-roller coated, or foamed and coated resulting in the deposition of a solute. The use of the terms Pick-up and Wet pick-up to denote the weight of solids taken up by a fabric is deprecated. The formation of a polymer by reaction of a compound or compounds without the formation of other reaction products.



16 other reaction products.



ADELAIDE WOOLS



fibers, filaments, yarns



ADHESION



general



ADHESION TEST



ADHESIVE-ACTIVATED YARNS



ADHESIVE-BONDED



Adelaide wools find use in high quality worsteds made from very fine, choice fibres.



The property denoting the ability of a material to resist delamination or separation into two or more layers. general A test to assess the force required per unit width to separate layers of coated or laminated fabrics fibers, filaments, Yarns that have yarns been treated to promote improved adhesion to another material such as rubber and/or to permit easier processing fabrics Textile material



See also Polymerisation and Condensation polymerisation Obtained from around the city of Adelaide, the wool is slightly lower in quality when compared with Port Philip and Sydney wools raised in Australia. Adelaide wools find use in high quality worsteds made from very fine, choice fibres. The property denoting the ability of a material to resist delamination or separation into two or more layers.



A test to assess the force required per unit width to separate layers of coated or laminated fabrics



Yarns that have been treated to promote improved adhesion to another material such as rubber and/or to permit easier processing



Textile material



17 NONWOVEN FABRIC



ADJECTIVE DYES



³



ADMIRALTY CLOTH



fabrics



ADRAS



fabrics



ADSORPTION



processes, operations



ADULTERATION



processes,



composed of a composed of a web web or batt of or batt of fibres, fibres, bonded bonded by the by the application of application of adhesive material. adhesive See also Saturation material. bonding, Spray bonding, Print bonding, and Foam bonding Colouring Colouring substances that substances that must be applied must be applied with a mordant with a mordant. The colours change in character with the type of mordant used. A term used by A term used by British naval British naval forces forces for the for the standard standard British British Melton used Melton used for for officers’ officers’ uniforms and coats. uniforms and coats. An union fabric An union fabric containing silk containing silk and and cotton, cotton, usually in usually in equal equal quantities. It quantities. is glossy, has narrow stripes, and is made in a beetled finish A process in A process in which which the the surface of a surface of a solid takes on or solid takes on or absorbs in an absorbs in an extremely thin extremely thin layer, molecules of layer gases, of dissolved substances, or of liquids with which it is in contact. The adulteration The adulteration of



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ADVERTISING TAPE AERATED YARN AEROPHANE



AEROPLANE FABRIC



of substitute fibres or foreign materials to textiles, e.g. wool is sometimes adulterated with cotton.



substitute fibres or foreign materials to textiles, e.g. wool is sometimes adulterated with cotton. This should not be confused with blending or mixing, where the objective is to obtain increased service, improved appearance, etc. accessories See Bolduc See Bolduc fibers, filaments, See HollowSee Hollowyarns filament yarn. filament yarn. fabrics A thin, solidA thin, solidcoloured, silk coloured, silk gauze gauze made in made in imitation of imitation of crepe. Formerly crepe used for trimming dresses and millinery fabrics Any fabric used Any fabric used as as the outer the outer covering covering of a of a ‘heavier-than‘heavier-than-air’ air’ aircraft. aircraft. Originally, a simple, single, high-quality fabric of tightly woven construction, which may include rip-stop threads to enhance tear resistance. However, modern fabrics are typically polyester or polyamide-based and may be laminated with a thin polymer film or films, these fabrics being used on light and micro-light



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AERTEX



fabrics



Trade name for a brand of cotton cellular fabric.



AFFINITY AFGHALAINE



³ fabrics



See Dye affinity Woollen dressfabric made in plain weave using firmly twisted yarns in alternate ‘S’ and ‘Z’ twist in both warp and weft.



AFRICAN COTTON



fibers, filaments, yarns



A comprehensive term for all the



aircraft, gliders and hang-gliders. Trade name for a brand of cotton cellular fabric. Cool and absorbent and comfortable to wear, because it is made of cotton and is of open texture. Used for underwear, sports clothes, and shirts for children and adults See Dye affinity Woollen dressfabric made in plain weave using firmly twisted yarns in alternate ‘S’ and ‘Z’ twist in both warp and weft. The use of firmly twisted yarns give a fairly crisp handle and the use of opposing twists give a faintly crinkled appearance to the surface of the fabric. Fabric surface is fairly clear of fibres. Cheaper qualities not very crisp in handle and show more surface fibres, and may be made of a mixture of wool and a cheaper fibre. A comprehensive term for all the varieties of cotton



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AFRICAN FIBRE



AFRICAN STRIPE



AFRICAN WASTE



AFRICAN WOOLS



AFTER-CHROMING



AFTER-COPPERING



varieties of cultivated in Africa. cotton cultivated The native varieties in Africa. generally tend to be inferior. fibers, filaments, A leaf fibre A leaf fibre yarns obtained from obtained from the the palmetto in palmetto in Algeria. Algeria. Used for stuffing mattresses. fabrics A cotton fabric A cotton fabric with with bold, bold, coloured coloured stripes stripes fibers, filaments, A silk produced A silk produced by yarns by the Anaphe the Anaphe silkworm, the silkworm, the most most important important silk silk manufacturing manufacturing insect in Africa. insect in Africa. fibers, filaments, Refers mainly to Refers mainly to yarns the very much the very much sought after sought after merino merino wools, wools, from the from the southern parts of southern parts Africa. They are of Africa. characterised by its softness, fineness, and whiteness. The term African wools, also include some other native breeds which are inferior in quality. processes, A dyeing A dyeing process in operations process which a chrome mordant is applied to a dyed fabric while it is wet, thus increasing the fastness of the dye processes, A dyeing The treatment of operations process prints, usually those with direct or sulphur dyes, with copper salts



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AFTER-TREATING



processes, operations



A technique used to improve colourfastness



AFTER-WELT



garments, madeups, assemblies



A band on a stocking, following the welt, in which there is a variation of quality, stitch, and/or yarn.



AFTERFLAME



general



Persistence of flaming of a material



AFTERGLOW



general



AFTERTREATMENT



processes, operations



solution. A technique used to improve colourfastness and/or to produce normal shades by passing the dyed material through a chemical solution, e.g. Direct dyes are so treated. Also called Antiladder band, Antirun-back courses, Garter band, and Shadow welt. A band on a stocking, following the welt, in which there is a variation of quality, stitch, and/or yarn. Persistence of flaming of a material after the ignition source has been removed. Glow in a material after the removal of an external ignition source or after the cessation of (natural or induced) of flaming of the material. See also Flame, Glow and Smouldering.



Glow in a material after the removal of an external ignition source or after the cessation of (natural or induced) of flaming of the material. A A comprehensive comprehensive term for any term for any treatment following treatment actual dyeing following actual operation, e.g. dyeing operation colour fixing, resin application, neutralisation,



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AGARIC



fabrics



AGEING



processes, operations



washes, et Cotton fabric with a loop construction, similar to towelling



Cotton fabric with a loop construction, similar to towelling Progressive 1. IN POLYMERS. change with Progressive change time in the with time in the structure and structure and properties of properties of polymers, polymers, including including wool wool fibres. fibres. 2. IN PRINTING. Fixation of printed colour by means of heat or steam. Originally induced by the action of air, sunlight or dew; this process gradually came to be carried out in a Rapid ager or by hot air or in a steam cabinet. 3. IN THE PRODUCTION OF VISCOSE. The oxidative depolymerisation of alkali cellulose in order to produce a controlled decrease in the chain length of the cellulose. The term is sometimes, although incorrectly, used to describe the ripening of viscose. 4. IN DRYING-OIL SIZES AND FINISHES. The oxidation by exposure to air of



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AGEING IN TESTING



processes, operations



AGRA GAUZE AGRA GAUZE AGRÉ GAUZ AGRÉ GAUZE



fabrics fabrics



AIR BRUSH PRINTING



processes, operations



fabrics



drying-oil sizes and finishes. 5. IN RUBBER, PLASTIC COATINGS, PROOFINGS AND LUBRICANTS. The deterioration of rubber and plastic coatings and proofings and of some lubricants on textiles, caused by gradual oxidation on storage and/or exposure to light. Storage of a Storage of a material under material under defined defined conditions, conditions, to determine by subsequent tests the effect of these conditions on the properties of the material. The conditions may be chosen to accelerate any natural changes that may occur See Agré gauze. See Agré gauze. See Agré gauzeI See Agré gauze Also called Agra gauze. Plain weave, opensett, silk fabric having a gauzelike appearance that receives a stiff finish. A mechanical process by which colour is blown onto a



Also called Agra gauze. Plain weave, open-sett, silk fabric having a gauze-like appearance that receives a stiff finish. A mechanical process by which colour is blown onto a fabric. Commonly



24 fabric



AIR BRUSHING



processes, operations



AIR CONDITIONING



processes, operations



AIR LAYING



processes, operations



AIR PERMEABILITY



fabrics



AIR TEXTURING



processes, operations processes, operations



AIR WICKING



Process of colour being blown on the fabric with mechanised airbrush. The treatment of air to maintain set levels of temperature, humidity and dust or lint content. A method of forming a web or batt of staple fibres



used on rayon or silk dobby or Jacquard fabrics. Interesting shaded effects may be obtained on fabrics by this method. Process of colour being blown on the fabric with mechanised airbrush. the treatment of air to maintain set levels of temperature, humidity and dust or lint content.



A method of forming a web or batt of staple fibres in which the fibres are dispersed into an air stream and condensed from the air stream on to a permeable cage or conveyor. The rate of The rate of airflow airflow through a through a material material under a differential pressure between the two fabric surfaces. The porosity of a fabric as measured by the ease with which air passes through it. See Air-jet See Air-jet texturing. texturing. Air permeability The passage of air in the plane of longitudinally along the fabric or through yarns,



25



AIR-CONDITIONING OF FABRIC AIR-COOLED FINISH



processes, operations processes, operations



See Fabric airconditioning. A process of finishing fabrics



AIR-JET LOOM



apparatus, equipage, tools



AIR-JET SPINNING



processes, operations



Loom in which the weft is inserted with a blast of air instead of using a shuttle. See also Shuttleless loom. Process of spinning staplefibres, using air to apply the twisting couple to the yarn during its formation



i.e. Air permeability in the plane of the fabric See Fabric airconditioning. A process of finishing fabrics to make them more porous so that air can circulate through the openings between the yarns. Fabrics so finished are said to ‘breathe’, a feature important for summer fabrics. Loom in which the weft is inserted with a blast of air instead of using a shuttle. See also Shuttleless loom.



Process of spinning staple-fibres, using air to apply the twisting couple to the yarn during its formation. The air is blown through small holes arranged tangential to the yarn surface and this causes the yarn to rotate. The majority of systems using this technique produce Fasciated yarns, but by using two air jets operating in opposing twist directions it is



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AIR-JET TEXTURING AIRLOOP FABRIC



AJOUR



AL



ALAPAT



ALBATROSS



ALBERT CLOTH



possible to produce yarns with more controlled properties but of more complex structure. processes, See under See under operations Texturing Texturing fabrics Warp knitted Warp knitted fabric, fabric, having a having a construction construction with reverse locknit lapping movements, the back guide bar being overfed to give a short pile on the surface of the fabric. accessories Lacy, openwork Lacy, openwork embroidery, embroidery, normally cotton normally cotton with with viscose viscose fibre. A fibre. decoration, used on blouses and underwear ³ A dye A dye, morindin, obtained from the roots of the Indian mulberry Morinda citrifolia. fibers, filaments, A two-ply, fine A two-ply, fine yarns gauge yarn, gauge yarn, spun spun from coir from coir or coconut or coconut fibre fibre fabrics A fine, A fine, lightweight, lightweight, soft soft material made material made of of good quality good quality worsted yarn. Plain worsted yarn. or rather open fancy weaves are used to enhance the crêpe feel and surface effect. fabrics Double faced, Double faced,



27



ALCIAN



³



ALCOHOLS



³



ALENÇON LACE



fabrics



ALEXANDRIA



fabrics



reversible coat reversible coat fabric, often with fabric, often with a a different face different face and and back. back. Made from wool, it is a good quality cloth used to make expensive overcoats for men, sometimes with velvet collars See under See under Ingrain Ingrain dye dye Chemical Chemical compounds compounds composed of composed of one or one or more more hydroxyl hydroxyl groupings attached groupings to a hydrocarbon. attached to a The most hydrocarbon. commonly used are wood alcohol (methyl), grain alcohol (ethyl) and glycerol or glycerine Lace, usually Lace, usually made made in a floral in a floral design design with an outlining of heavy corded thread. Background is fine mesh or net. Fine, lightweight The name probably dress fabric derived from the made of cotton very early silk and and wool with a wool fabrics, made small woven in the ancient city of design Alexandria, which featured small designs such as flowers and scrolls. Fine, lightweight dress fabric made of cotton and wool with a small woven design. It gathers



28



ALGINATE



well. Used for blouses, dresses and children’s clothes fibers, filaments, Fibres and Fibres and yarns filaments formed filaments formed from a metallic from a metallic salt salt of alginic of alginic acid, the acid, the natural natural polymer in polymer in certain seaweeds. certain Calcium alginate seaweeds. fibre, owing to its solubility in soapy water, find use as a blend component in making very fine, woollen cloth. Extremely fine worsted yarns are blended with seaweed fibres to give them extra strength to withstand weaving, after which the cloth is washed in soapy water, when the seaweed dissolves, resulting in a fine woollen cloth, easily packed, warm, crease-resistant, weighing even as little 50 g/m2. Used for camouflage netting. Also it is used in making fabrics with crêpe, bouclé and astrakhan effects. The alginate fibres act as supporting threads for the loops, and are then dissolved out



29



ALGINATE FIBRES



ALHAMBRA QUILT



fibers, filaments, Fibres and yarns filaments formed from a metallic salt of alginic acid, the natural polymer in certain seaweeds.



fabrics



A jacquard figured fabric with a plain ground weave that requires two warps



leaving the loops free. Fibres and filaments formed from a metallic salt of alginic acid, the natural polymer in certain seaweeds. Calcium alginate fibre, owing to its solubility in soapy water, find use as a blend component in making very fine, woollen cloth. Extremely fine worsted yarns are blended with seaweed fibres to give them extra strength to withstand weaving, after which the cloth is washed in soapy water, when the seaweed dissolves, resulting in a fine woollen cloth, easily packed, warm, crease-resistant, weighing even as little 50 g/m A jacquard figured fabric with a plain ground weave that requires two warps. The figuring warp is usually two-ply and coloured, the ground warp singles and undyed. The weft is often made on the condenser system, soft spun and of



30



ALIZARIN DYE



chemicals, textile The essential auxiliaries colouring matter of the madder root



ALKALI



³



The opposite of acidic.



ALKALI CELLULOSE



³



ALKALI SOLUBILITY



general



Cellulose in an intermediate step in the manufacture of viscose process yarn. The solubility of wool in sodium hydroxide solution which provides an index of the change in its chemical properties



coarse count. The essential colouring matter of the madder root, now produced artificially from anthracene, a coaltar derivative. Used successfully on wool, but the popular colour Turkey red is an example of its use on cotton. This red is brilliant and resistant to sun and washing. The opposite of acidic. Alkaline materials neutralise acids. A strong alkali will dissolve animal fibres. Cellulose in an intermediate step in the manufacture of viscose process yarn. 1. IN WOOL. The solubility of wool in sodium hydroxide solution which provides an index of the change in its chemical properties brought about by certain agencies. 2. IN FLAX. A measure of the amount of noncellulosic constituents (readily available as food-stuffs for



31



ALKANET



ALL SILK ALL WOOL ALL-OVER



ALL-OVER LACE



ALLEN



ALLIGATOR



micro-organisms), which are left in commercially boiled flax. ³ A dyestuff A dyestuff produced from produced from red red cabbage cabbage (alkanna) (alkanna) grown grown in Russia. in Russia Dye is purplish red in colour. fibers, filaments, Same as Pure Same as Pure silk. yarns silk. fibers, filaments, 100% wool 100% wool yarns fabrics A term used in A term used in designing to designing to indicate that the indicate that the design covers design covers the the entire entire surface. This surface. is in contrast to fragmentary motifs, borders or stripes fabrics Any piece-lace Any piece-lace with with a pattern a pattern repeated repeated regularly all over, regularly all without any over, without edgings, or any edgings, or borders, etc. borders, etc. fibers, filaments, A long staple, A long staple, late yarns late maturing maturing cotton cotton named named after the after the man man who who developed developed the the variety. variety. The staple is about 11/2 inches long and lustrous, the seed fuzzy and white. fabrics The skin of the The skin of the reptile, reptile, characterised by characterised by its its square boxy square boxy markings. markings. Used mainly for shoes



32



ALLOWANCE



ALNEIN



ALOE LACE



ALPACA



and handbags. processes, the extra 1. IN GARMENT operations dimensions MEASUREMENTS, allowed over the extra body dimensions allowed measurements. over body measurements. 2. IN SCREEN PRINTING, often a small overlap planned so as to avoid possible gaps of white cloth if registration of the screens is not accurately accomplished. 3. IN ENGRAVED ROLLER PRINTING, a small space between areas of colour, so carefully calculated as to be just closed on printing - to avoid Bleeding. ³ A golden-yellow A golden-yellow dyestuff dyestuff produced produced by the by the alder tree alder tree fabrics Very fragile type Very fragile type of of lace, made lace, made from the from the fibre of fibre of the plant, the plant, aloe. aloe. Very expensive. Usually made in Italy, and some in the Philippines fibers, filaments, The silky fleece 1. FIBRE. The silky yarns,fabrics of alpaca, an fleece of alpaca, an animal of the animal of the genus genus Llama, Llama, but slightly but slightly smaller in size, smaller in size, found in South found in South America.



33 America



ALPACA CRÊPE



fabrics



ALTAR CLOTH



fabrics



ALTERNATING TWIST



processes, operations



ALUM



³



Sometimes blended with cotton, wool, or rayon, mainly to reduce the cost, even though alpaca is not as expensive as camel or cashmere. 2. FABRIC. Alpaca, characterised by its crispness, was once widely used for dress fabrics, but now mainly confined to men’s light suits in black or grey. Imitation alpaca is made from viscose and acetate yarns. Soft, acetate or Soft, acetate or polyester fabric polyester fabric with with dulls dulls surface, fairly surface, fairly soft to handle. soft to handle. Also called Also called Bisso Bisso linen. Very linen. Very fine, fine, sheer, crisp sheer, crisp fabric, fabric used as the name suggests, for church clothes. A texturing A texturing process process in which in which ‘S’ twist ‘S’ twist and ‘Z’ and ‘Z’ twist are twist are alternately inserted alternately in the yarn by inserted in the means of a special yarn heating technique. A colourless, A colourless, waterwater-soluble soluble crystal. crystal. Used as a Mordant in dyeing and as an agent with alizarin for printing woollens



34 ALUMINIUM ACETATE



³



ALUMINIUM SILICATE FIBRES



fibers, filaments, yarns



ALUMINIUM YARNS AMAZON



A mordant A mordant employed in employed in calico calico printing printing and dyeing. and dyeing Known as red liquor in the textile trades. Used frequently for Waterproofing Fibres spun Fibres spun from from aluminium aluminium silicate, silicate with or without the addition of minor amounts of other materials. Light weight fibre, thermal shock resistant, flame resistant, and resilient, can withstand high temperatures, chemically stable and have electrical properties. Used for blankets, ropes, tapes and broad woven textile goods. See Lurex See Lurex



fibers, filaments, yarns fabrics Fine dress fabric Fine dress fabric with a worsted with a worsted warp warp and and woollen weft, woollen weft, usually in satin usually in satin weave in plain weave in plain colours. Is lightly colours milled and raised to give a fibrous effect but this does not conceal the twill effect of the satin weave. Expensive, so used only occasionally, mainly for women’s clothes.



35 AMENS AMERICAN CLOTH



fabrics fabrics



AMERICAN CORD



accessories



AMERICAN COTTON



AMERICAN GRAIN COUNT



AMERICAN SYSTEM



AMERICAN TWILL



AMIENS



See Amiens Light-weight, plain-weave fabric, usually cotton



See Amiens Light-weight, plainweave fabric, usually cotton, coated on one side with a mixture of linseed oil and other materials so as to render it glossy and impermeable to air or water. See Rat-tail cord.



See Rat-tail cord. fibers, filaments, A type of cotton A type of cotton yarns fibre. fibre. Average fibre length 23-32 mm.; not used for fine counts. fibers, filaments, A direct yarn A direct yarn yarns numbering numbering system system for for expressing expressing linear density, linear density equal to the mass in grams per 120 yards of Sliver or Roving processes, A method of A method of operations spinning spinning worsted worsted yarns yarns, developed in the U.S., that is still in the evolution stage. fabrics an ordinary two A term occasionally up, two down used in England for twill weave. an ordinary two up, two down twill weave. fabrics Also called Also called Amens. Amens. A closely woven, twilled fabric made of hard-twisted worsted yarns in solid colours, stripes or novelty



36



AMINIZED COTTON



AMORPHOUS REGION



fibers, filaments, yarns



Cotton that has been treated with amino-ethyl sulphuric acid.



fibers, filaments, In fibre, an area yarns where the molecules have been unable to arrange themselves in a regular manner



AMYLASE



³



ANALOGOUS COLOURS



general



ANALYTICAL BALANCE



apparatus, equipage, tools



A device for accurately weighing small swatches



ANAPHE



fibers, filaments, yarns fabrics



See under Wild silk Made from Made from Spanish Spanish merino merino wool and wool and comparable grades, comparable these fine worsted



ANDALUSIANS



See under Enzymes Colours which are next to each other in the colour wheel



patterns Cotton that has been treated with amino-ethyl sulphuric acid. The treatment improves the (a) affinity of cotton fibre, yarn or fabric for dye, (b) fastness to laundering and light, and (c) chemical reactivity In fibre, an area where the molecules have been unable to arrange themselves in a regular manner, i.e. the less organised parts of a fibre. See under Enzymes Colours which are next to each other in the colour wheel; they are related because they share a common property, i.e., blue, blue-green, greenish blue, green. A device for accurately weighing small swatches or small amounts of ingredients. See under Wild silk



37 grades



ANGEL LACE



fabrics



Patterned warpknitted fabric made with separating threads



ANGLE OF LEAD



processes, operations



Also called Winding-on angle



ANGLE OF WINDING



processes, operations



ANGLED DRAFT



processes, operations



The angle contained between a wrap of yarn on the surface of a package and the diametrical plane of the package Also called Point draw.



dress goods come in a variety of twill constructions and fabric weights Patterned warpknitted fabric made with separating threads that are usually of secondary cellulose acetate, subsequently dissolved out to leave narrow strips for trimming. It is generally produced on a tricot machine, using atlas-lapping movements to produce a scalloped edge. Also called Winding-on angle. In ring spinning or ring twisting, the angle formed at the traveller between a package radius and the tangent to the package surface. The angle contained between a wrap of yarn on the surface of a package and the diametrical plane of the package



Also called Point draw. A kind of drawing-in draft in which the warps or ends are drawn through the



38



ANGLICANUM



ANGOLA



ANGORA



ANIDEX FIBRE



accessories



A general term encompassing English needlework, embroidery and cutwork. fibers, filaments, A yarn spun on yarns,fabrics the woollen system from a mixture of wool and cotton or other fibre.



fabrics



Fabric made from the hair of the Angora rabbit.



fibers, filaments, A manufactured yarns fibre



harnesses in regular sequence, first in one direction, then in the other. A general term encompassing English needlework, embroidery and cutwork. 1. YARN. A yarn spun on the woollen system from a mixture of wool and cotton or other fibre. 2. FABRIC. Plain or twill fabric made from a cotton warp and an Angola-yarn weft. Fabric made from the hair of the Angora rabbit. Always mixed with other fibres, often wool or acrylic, to reduce the cost. Fabrics are labelled as containing rabbit hair to avoid confusion with mohair, the hair of the Angora goat. Any fabric containing Angora rabbit hair is characterised by the appearance of short white hairs. A manufactured fibre in which the fibre-forming substance is any



39



ANILINE BLACK



ANILINE DYES



ANIMAL FIBRES



ANIMALIZING



long chain synthetic polymer composed of at least 50 % by weight of one or more esters of a monohydric alcohol and acrylic acid. ³ A manufactured A dye developed on fibre the fibre by oxidation of aniline. Bright black, very fast, used mainly on cotton. Acid fumes may turn it a rusty green, but good soaping restores original black colour. See also Aniline dyes. chemicals, textile Any dye derived Any dye derived auxiliaries chemically from chemically from aniline aniline, a coal tar product. fibers, filaments, Any natural Any natural proteinyarns protein-base base fibre. Some of fibre the more popular Animal (protein base) fibres which find use in textiles, are: Alpaca wool, Camel hair, Cashmere hair, Horse-body hair, Horse-mane and tail hair, Llama wool, Mink, Mohair, Common rabbit, Angora rabbit, Sheep wool, Silk, Tussah silk, Vicuna wool, etc. processes, Any natural A chemical operations protein-base treatment that fibre enables fibres other than wool to take



40



ANIONIC DYE



chemicals, textile auxiliaries



A dye that dissociates in aqueous solution to give a negatively charged coloured ion



ANISOTROPIC



general



The possession of optical properties in a material that vary



ANKLE



garments, made- Garment-related ups, assemblies term.



ANKLE GIRTH



garments, made- Garment-related ups, assemblies term.



ANORAK



garments, madeups, assemblies



A lined and hooded hiplength jacket



ANTHRAQUINONOID DYE



³



ANTI-FUME FINISH



³



See under Vat dyes. A finish, especially applied to acetate fabrics



dyes used for animal fibres. A dye that dissociates in aqueous solution to give a negatively charged coloured ion. Dyes of this type include acid, premetallized acid and chrome dyes used especially on some acrylic fibres and nylon; also applies to some synthetic detergents. The possession of optical properties in a material that vary with the changing direction of propagation of light through it. Garment-related term. See under Garment sizing system. Garment-related term. See under Garment sizing system. A lined and hooded hip-length jacket designed to give a degree of protection from severe weather conditions See under Vat dyes. A finish, especially applied to acetate fabrics and yarns which raises their



41 and yarns which resistance to and/or raises their prevents the resistance destruction of the colours by atmospheric fumes, especially those caused by combustion or those which have an acid character ANTI-LADDER BAND garments, made- See After-welt. See After-welt. ups, assemblies ANTI-MICROBIAL AGENT chemicals, textile Any chemical Any chemical auxiliaries material which material which kills kills or inhibits or inhibits the the growth of growth of microorganisms. microorganisms. ANTI-RUN-BACK COURSES garments, made- See After-welt See After-welt ups, assemblies ANTI-SAG fabrics Applicable to a Applicable to a fabric that, fabric that, under under normal normal conditions, conditions, will will not stretch out not stretch out of of shape. shape. ANTI-SEPTICS ³ Chemical Chemical substances substances used to used to prevent prevent bacterial or bacterial or fungal growth on fungal growth on cotton fabrics. cotton fabrics. Some of the common antiseptics include zinc salts, formaldehyde, copper salts, salicylic acid, phenol and other acids. ANTIBACTERIAL AGENT ³ Any chemical Any chemical material which material which kills kills bacteria bacteria (bactericide) (bactericide) or interferes with the multiplication, growth or activity of



42



ANTICHLOR



chemicals, textile auxiliaries



Any chemical agent used to inactivate residual chlorine in goods



ANTICOCKLE TREATMENT



processes, operations



A mild setting treatment imparted to wool knitwear usually by heating the textile material in the presence of an aqueous solution of a reducing agent.



ANTICREASE FINISH



processes, operations



Synthetic resin treatment of cotton, rayon, linen and combination fabrics,



ANTIFOAM



³



ANTIFUNGAL AGENT



ANTIQUE LACE



bacteria (bacteriostat). Any chemical agent used to inactivate residual chlorine in goods to prevent the tendering of the fabric. A mild setting treatment imparted to wool knitwear usually by heating the textile material in the presence of an aqueous solution of a reducing agent. The object of this treatment is to prevent distortion and cockling of the knitted structure during subsequent wet processing Synthetic resin treatment of cotton, rayon, linen and combination fabrics, to make them resist and recover from wrinkling. A substance that prevents foam generation or causes its collapse.



A substance that prevents foam generation or causes its collapse. chemicals, textile Any chemical Any chemical auxiliaries material which material which kills kills or inhibits or inhibits the the growth of growth of fungi. fungi. fabrics Hand-made Hand-made bobbin bobbin lace lace, using heavy threads. Designs



43



ANTIQUE SATIN



ANTIQUE TAFFETA



ANTISTATIC AGENT



ANTISTATIC FINISH



are often irregular. fabrics A satin-weave A satin-weave fabric fabric made to resemble silk satin of an earlier century. It is used for furnishing fabrics fabrics A heavy and stiff A heavy and stiff finished fabric finished fabric, not much popular now, but it is the best type for curtains, etc. May be made of Dupion silk or synthetic fibres. See also Taffeta. ³ A chemical A chemical which which can can prevent or prevent or reduce the reduce the generation of static generation of electricity. static electricity. chemicals, textile A finish used on A finish used on auxiliaries fibres to give fibres to give them them antistat antistat properties. properties Many finishes are now available, but a more permanent method is to introduce antistat components during polymerisation, in order to provide hydrophilic properties and this has achieved excellent antistat results for some nylon lingerie products. A very effective antistat is provided by carbon black blended into PVC or



44



ANTISTATIC NYLON



fibers, filaments, yarns



Nylon fibre with antistatic properties permanently built into it by the chemical modification of the polymer



ANTISTATIC TRICOT



fabrics



Fine synthetic jersey fabric for lingerie and nightwear.



ANTWERP POT LACE



fabrics



Bobbin lace



APPAREL



garments, madeups, assemblies



APPAREL WOOL



A covering for human body; clothing, dress, garments fibers, filaments, A broad term, yarns which embraces all wools, except carpet wool and



polyester/cotton fabrics but the speckled black colour is not very popular. Nylon fibre with antistatic properties permanently built into it by the chemical modification of the polymer. Fabrics made from it have a greatly reduced tendency to cling and sparkle when worn. Static electricity, however, can still be a problem because other factors, such as temperature and humidity are involved. The use of fabric softeners help further. Fine synthetic jersey fabric for lingerie and nightwear. May be also named Filamel. Bobbin lace, which usually contain motifs of baskets or vases of flowers as decoration. A covering for human body; clothing, dress, garments A broad term, which embraces all wools, except carpet wool and



45 pulled wools



APPARENT WALL THICKNESS



APPEARANCE APPEARANCE OF CREASES APPEARANCE OF END PRODUCTS



fibers, filaments, yarns



The apparent width of a fibre wall



fibers, filaments, See under Fibre yarns properties processes, See Crease operations retention, 2. garments, madeThe overall ups, assemblies visual impression of a textile endproduct



APPEARANCE RATING



fabrics



A visual rating of a fabric



APPENZELL



accessories



APPLICATION PRINTING APPLIED DESIGN



processes, operations fabrics



APPLIQUÉ



fabrics



Swiss hand embroidery, featuring loopstitch See Direct style printing. See under Design. A cutout design or shape attached to the face of a fabric for decoration



pulled wools. Apparel wool finds much use in blankets, felt, upholstery, and similar materials. The apparent width of a fibre wall as seen when fibres are examined under a microscope. See under Fibre properties See Crease retention, 2. The overall visual impression of a textile end-product quantified by comparison of individual components with appropriate reference standards. A visual rating of a fabric when viewed under standard conditions. Swiss hand embroidery, featuring loopstitch See Direct style printing. See under Design. A cutout design or shape attached to the face of a fabric for decoration, usually of a different type



46



APPLIQUÉ LACE



APRON CHECKS



APRON MARK AQL AQUA



ARABESQUE



ARABIAN LACE



ARAMID



and/or shade of material. fabrics Any fabric where Any fabric where separate lace separate lace motifs are motifs are applied applied to a to a background. background. fabrics A cotton A cotton gingham gingham made in simple check patterns of an equal number of white and colour threads, alternating both in warp and weft. Used for aprons defects See Decating See Decating mark. mark. general See Acceptable See Acceptable Quality Level Quality Level processes, Aqueous Aqueous pigment operations pigment printing printing system, system developed in response to the demands of ecology, using binders, which do not contain hydrocarbon solvents. accessories Scroll designs Scroll designs produced by produced by stitching or with stitching or with cord. cord. fabrics Écru-coloured Écru-coloured piece-lace piece-lace, corded in a darker shade. Used for curtains. fibers, filaments, A manufactured A manufactured yarns fibre fibre in which the fibre-forming substance is a long chain synthetic aromatic polyamide



47



ARAMID FABRICS



ARAN



in which at least 85 % of the amide linkages are attached directly to two aromatic rings. fabrics A manufactured Fabrics made from fibre aramid fibres are expensive, comfortable to wear and serves for a very long time. Used mainly for protective clothing worn by jet fighter pilots, tank crews and other military personnel, racing car drivers, and for space suits and certain industrial uses. Fabrics made from a special type of aramid fibre, which is petroleum based, are very light, flame resistant and self extinguishing, and at the same time, has extremely high strength, tenacity, low thermal conductivity, exceptional resistance to cuts, punctures and abrasions. Used for ballistic protective jackets (bullet proof vests), gloves, aprons and overalls. fabrics,processes, Fancy openwork Fancy openwork operations knit knit in a variety of colours and patterns, often



48



AREA BURNING RATE



general



Area of material (m2) burned per unit time (seconds)



ARGENTINE WOOL



fibers, filaments, yarns



Merino crossbred and carpet wools raised in Argentina.



ARGYLE



fabrics



Knitted fabric having diamondshaped designs



ARM



apparatus, equipage, tools



In sewing machine, a casting that houses and provides mounting points for the moving parts inside



produced in traditional designs. See Crochet knitting. Area of material (m2) burned per unit time (seconds) under specified test conditions. Merino crossbred and carpet wools raised in Argentina. Lower grades are often infested with burrs and other vegetable matter to the detriment of the fleece. Knitted fabric having diamondshaped designs using two, or more usually three colours of yarn. Often used for jerseys and hosiery, but also incorporated into knit fabrics. In sewing machine, a casting that houses and provides mounting points for the moving parts inside. It includes the sewing head and parts housing the mechanism for transferring mechanical notions to the parts of the mechanism contained in the machine bed. The



49



ARMENIAN EDGING



accessories



ARMHOLE



garments, madeups, assemblies



ARMISTICE CLOTH



fabrics



ARMLENGTH



garments, madeups, assemblies



ARMORED FABRICS



fabrics



ARMPIT



garments, madeups, assemblies



ARMSCYE



garments, madeups, assemblies



arm is normally the upper visible part of the machine above the material being sewn. Narrow lace Narrow lace trimming trimming with formal, often geometric, designs Garment-related Garment-related term. term. See under Garment sizing system An obsolete, An obsolete, English worsted English worsted fabric fabric which was popular long ago. It was made in orange, blue, black and other colours Garment-related Garment-related term term. See under Garment sizing system A broad A broad classification of classification of glass, asbestos, glass, asbestos, cotton, rayon cotton, rayon and and other fabrics other fabrics coated or impregnated with polyvinyl chloride, cellulose nitrate, natural or synthetic rubber, or synthetic resin compositions for protection against severe conditions of exposure. Garment-related Garment-related term term. See under Garment sizing system Garment-related Garment-related term. term. See under



50



ARMSCYE CIRCUMFERENCE



ARMURÉ



ARRAS



ARROWHEAD TWILL ART LINEN



Garment sizing system. garments, made- Garment-related Garment-related ups, assemblies term. term. See under Garment sizing system. fabrics French term for French term for a a variety of variety of fabrics fabrics which which have an have an embossed or embossed or pebbled surface, pebbled surface imitating bird’s eye effect, piqué, stripes, crêpe and ribs. Sometimes they also have a woven design. Made from any fibre or blends of various fibres. Mainly a dressweight fabric. fabrics FRENCH LACE. 1. FRENCH LACE. 2. WORSTED CLOTH, WHICH was produced in or around the city of Arras. 3. TAPESTRYWORK, made famous centuries ago in the city of Arras. fabrics A British term for A British term for Herringbone. Herringbone. fabrics Linen fabric Linen fabric made made with a with a cylindrical cylindrical thread. Soft but firm thread enough to use as a base for embroidery, and is used for drawnthread work. Colours êcru, white or unbleached.



51 ART SILK



fabrics



ARTIFICIAL COTTONS ARTIFICIAL SILK



fibers, filaments, yarns fabrics



ARTILLERY TWILL ARTIST’S CANVAS



fabrics fabrics



AS-IS’ TWIST



fibers, filaments, yarns fabrics



ASBESTOS FABRIC



ASBESTOS FIBRE



See Artificial silk. Also called Art silk Also called Art silk



See Artificial silk.



See HWM modal fibre. Also called Art silk. Deprecated term, used earlier to describe viscose fibre (rayon) fabric, because they were made to imitate the more expensive pure silk cloth. See Whipcord. See Whipcord. Fabric made of Fabric made of cotton, linen, cotton, linen, jute, jute, or hemp or hemp, prepared with size and suitably primed specifically for artist’s painting grounds. See Final twist See Final twist Made from asbestos fibre



Made from asbestos fibre. Completely fireproof. Produced mainly in plain or twill weave and are used for industrial purposes, protective clothing, theatre curtains, ironing-board covers, fire blankets, etc. Made in a variety of weights. fibers, filaments, Commercial Commercial name yarns name for the for the mineral fibre mineral fibre produced from a produced from a naturally occurring naturally mineral of fibrous occurring texture called



52



ASKEWED



defects



ASPECT RATIO



general



ASSAM SILK



fibers, filaments, yarns processes, operations



ASSEMBLY WINDING



ASSESSMENT OF GARMENT DEFECTS



defects



ASSORTMENT OF GARMENT DEFECTS ASTRAKHAN FABRIC



defects fabrics



mineral of ‘asbestos’. The fibrous texture fibre will not burn in called the fiercest flame. It ‘asbestos’. is, spun alone or with cotton. Based on its chemical nature, asbetos is classified into (a) Chysolite and (b) Crocodolite. See Chysolite and Crocodolite Fabric defect Fabric defect. See Skewness. the degree of A term which flattening of a expresses the yarn degree of flattening of a yarn when assembled in a fabric. See Muga silk See Muga silk The winding of The winding of two two or more or more yarns as yarns as one on one on to a single to a single package usually in package preparation for a subsequent twisting process. See under See under Garment Garment defects. defects. See under See under Garment Garment defects defects A curled-pile A curled-pile fabric, fabric, synthetic synthetic or wool, or wool, made to made to imitate imitate Astrakhan fur. Astrakhan fur. Heavy fabric, woven or knitted. Used for coats, jackets, collars, bags, etc. Good quality cloth contains some



53



ASTRAKHAN FUR



fabrics



ATLAS



fabrics



mohair to add lustre and curl. 1. WARPKNITTED. A warpknitted fabric in which a thick curled yarn is attached to the ground fabric by the threads of two guide bars while three other guide bars knit the ground fabric. 2. WEFT-KNITTED. A weft-knitted fabric, made on one set of needles, with curled yarn inlaid on a tuck-miss basis. See also Laid-in fabric, weftknitted. 3. WOVEN. Pretreated pile yarn is lifted over wires, inserted at regular intervals, and woven into a plain weave ground. Made from the Made from the fur fur of stillborn or of stillborn or very very young young lambs in the lambs in the Astrakhan area of Astrakhan area Central Asia. Luxurious and expensive. Used for coats, hats and trimmings for men and women. Satin weave, Satin weave, rich rich fabric made fabric made from from silk or man- silk or man-made made fibres fibres. Used for dress fabrics, mainly evening wear. Atlas made



54



ATMOSPHERIC FADING



processes, operations



ATTACHED CUSHION



garments, madeups, assemblies



ATTACHED UPHOLSTERY FABRIC



garments, madeups, assemblies



with cotton weft, which is less expensive is used as a lining fabric. See also Single bar atlas fabric, and Two bar atlas fabric. Also called Acid Also called Acid fading, Fume fading, Fume fading, and Gas fading, and Gas fading. fading. The change of shade exhibited by some dyes, when exposed to certain gases, principally oxides of nitrogen, given off during the burning of fuels. Inhibitors may be used to counteract this tendency or resistant dyes may be used. A cushioning A cushioning material, such material, such as a as a foam of foam of rubber, rubber, urethane, etc., is urethane, etc., is adhered to the adhered to the backing fabric side backing fabric of a pile yarn floor side of a pile covering to provide yarn floor additional covering dimensional stability, thickness, and padding. The exterior The exterior fabric fabric covering, covering, secured secured to a to a furniture unit by furniture unit the furniture manufacturer or custom upholsterer. See also Furniture covering.



55 AUSTRALIAN MERINO



fibers, filaments, yarns



A very high A very high grade, grade, distinctive breed distinctive breed developed from developed from several different several different strains. Quality of strains. these wools is being steadily improved. The fleece is very dense and staple length averages 21/2 to 4 inches. AUTOMATIC LOCK SLIDER accessories In zippers, a In zippers, a slider slider that provides involuntary, positive locking action on the chain when the pull is releasedthat provides involuntary, positive locking action on the chain when the pull is released AUTOMATIC LOOM apparatus, A loom in which A loom in which equipage, tools empty quills are empty quills are replaced by full replaced by full ones ones automatically automatically whilst the loom is running AUTOMATIC SCREEN apparatus, See Flat bed See Flat bed PRINTING equipage, tools screen-printing screen-printing under Screenunder Screenprinting. printing. AWASAI fibers, filaments, An ideal carpet- An ideal carpetyarns wool from wool from Mesopotamia. Mesopotamia. Mainly used for carpet manufacturing. AXMINSTER garments, madeA machineA machine-woven ups, assemblies woven carpet, carpet, with cut pile, with cut pile, in in which successive which weft-wise rows of successive weft- pile are inserted wise rows of pile during weaving in a



56 are inserted pre- arranged during weaving colour sequence. in a preSPOOL arranged colour AXMINSTER: A sequence. carpet in which the yarn for each weftwise row is wound on a separate spool according to the design. The tufts are severed from the yarns presented at the point of weaving, after the insertion in the backing structure. GRIPPER AXMINSTER: A carpet in which the tufts of yarn are inserted at the point of weaving by means of grippers. The colours are selected by jacquard-operated carriers that present the appropriate ends of yarns to the grippers before the tufts are severed from the yarn. SPOOL-GRIPPER AXMINSTER: A carpet in which the yarns for each weftwise row are wound on a spool as for Spool axminster weaving, but in which tufts severed from the yarns are inserted at the point of weaving by grippers as in



57



AZLIN



AZLON



fabrics



A plain weave fabric in cotton,



fibers, filaments, A manufactured yarns fibre



AZOIC DYEING



processes, operations



A process of dyeing



AZOIC DYES



³



Also called Ice



Gripper axminster weaving. CHENILLE AXMINSTER: A carpet that has a pile of chenille weft. See also Chenille and Fancy yarn. A plain weave fabric in cotton, produced in a variety of plain colours. Used mainly for soft furnishings A manufactured fibre in which the fibre-forming substance is composed of any regenerated naturally occurring proteins. Such natural proteins are available from peanuts, soybeans, corn, milk, etc. Soft and smooth fibres, which blend well with other fibres. Used for knitted garments, sportswear and coats. A process of dyeing in which the insoluble dye is developed on the fibre by the combination of two components; the diazotised amine and coupling component. Also called Ice



58 colours, Naphthol colours



AZORES AZORES



fibers, filaments, yarns



AZOTON



fibers, filaments, yarns



colours, Naphthol colours. Insoluble azo dyes formed on the fibre by coupling a naphthol with a solution of diazotized bases or salts of a base. An insoluble azo compound developed, in situ, on a substrate by chemically reacting an azoic diazo component (diazotized amine) with an azoic coupling component. These dyes are used mainly for cellulosic (predominantly, cotton) material. They produce bright and deep shades, especially reds, scarlets and blues at reasonable cost. They have good fastness to laundering and light, but crocking fastness is poor. Azoic dyes are: · suitable for cotton, linen, viscose rayon, and cuprammonium rayon fibres. Thick Thick longhaired, longhaired, loosely woven loosely woven woollens. woollens. A A cyanoethylated cyanoethylated cotton product. The



59 cotton product



technique for producing azoton includes the reaction of ordinary cotton with a chemical compound, acrylonitrile. The product of this reaction is a new fibre resembling cotton but having many improved properties.



B Word



Category



BABY COMBING WOOL



fibers, filaments, yarns



BABY FLANNEL



fabrics



BABY LACE



fabrics



BABYCORD



fabrics



BACK BREAK-POINT



garments, madeups, assemblies



BACK CHROMING



processes, operations



BACK COATING



chemicals, textile auxiliaries



Short Description description Fine, choice wool Fine, choice wool fibre fibre which which ranges from 11/2 to ranges from 11/2 21/2 inches in staple length. to 21/2 inches in The French method of staple length. combing is used to make high grade worsted yarn from the stock. Lightweight Lightweight flannel used for flannel children’s garments Narrow lace Narrow lace edging of the edging of the Valenciennes type. See also Valenciennes Valenciennes lace. type See under See under Corduroy Corduroy Garment-related Garment-related term. See term. under Garment sizing system. A treatment Also called Back dyeing. A given to a fabric treatment given to a fabric after dyeing to after dyeing to improve improve colour colour fixation. A chrome fixation. mordant is used, often on logwood blacks. An adhesive-type An adhesive-type substance substance applied to the back of a applied to the fabric for such purposes as



60 back of a fabric



BACK DYEING BACK FABRIC SEAM IMPRESSION



processes, operations defects



BACK LOOP



fabrics



BACK RISE



garments, madeups, assemblies



BACK SIDE



fabrics



BACK STITCH



seams, stitches



BACK STRAP



garments, madeups, assemblies



locking pile yarn tufts into a carpet backing, bonding a secondary backing to a primary backing, or increasing fabric body or stiffness. See Back dyeing. See Back dyeing. Printing defect, major.



Printing defect, major. During printing, backing fabric is often used to cushion the fabric being printed and if there is a joining seam in the backing fabric, there may result an impression on the printed fabric. See under Knitted loop



See under Knitted loop The distance on The distance on a garment a garment from from the crutch to the centre the crutch to the back of the waistline. centre back of the waistline. Also called Also called Wrong side. The Wrong side reverse of a fabric as opposed to the face side. A strong and See Filler versatile hand A strong and versatile hand stitch used to stitch used to seam garment seam garment parts. It is so called parts. because, the needle, on emerging, goes back to be inserted at the end of the previous stitch. Strap across the Strap across the back of a back of a garment at the waist usually garment at the fitted with a buckle, or other waist usually method of adjustable fitted with a fastening, and used to buckle, or other adjust the fit of the garment, method of within limits, to the wearer’s adjustable require-ments. fastening



61 BACK TACKING



seams, stitches



BACK TANNING



processes, operations



BACK TWISTING



processes, operations



BACK WASHING



processes, operations



BACK WIDTH



garments, madeups, assemblies



BACK WINDING



processes, operations



BACK-AND-FORE STITCH



seams, stitches



BACK-FILLING



³



BACK-GREY



fabrics



Reverse sewing Reverse sewing at the at the beginning beginning and end of a and end of a seam for reinforcement. seam An afterAn after-treatment to treatment to improve the wet fastness of improve the wet dyed or printed silk or fastness of dyed polyamide materials, using or printed silk or either natural or synthetic polyamide tanning agents. See also materials Tannin. Re-twisting a Re-twisting a yarn in the yarn opposite direction to the direction of the original, previously set twist. The washing of The washing of dyed or dyed or undyed undyed wool sliver before or wool sliver after gilling and or combing. Garment-related Garment-related term. See term. under Garment sizing system. The process of The process of rewinding, rewinding, e.g. from hank or cone to a more suitable package for the next process. A hand stitch A hand stitch employed for employed for sewing linings and pockets. sewing linings It involves taking a back and and pockets. then a running stitch before the needle is removed A filler material A filler material applied to applied to the the back of a fabric, to back of a fabric improve its hand and/or increase the weight. See Filler IN ROLLER 1. IN ROLLER PRINTING, PRINTING,IN fabric used between the SCREEN blanket and the fabric to be PRINTING printed - sometimes called ‘face fabric’ - to absorb any printing paste that penetrate through the printed fabric, and to im-part flexibility to the face fabric allowing



62



BACK-SIZING BACKED CLOTH WEAVE



³ fabrics



See Filler. A reversible fabric



BACKED FABRIC



fabrics



A fabric woven with an extra set of yarns



BACKING FABRIC



fabrics



A reinforcing layer of fabric



BACKING YARN



fabrics



In pile fabrics, the base yarn that holds the pile in place



BACKING, PRIMARY



fabrics



In tufted pile yarn floor covering



BACKING, SECONDARY



fabrics



A material adhered to the



sharp prints. 2. IN SCREEN PRINTING, fabric used to support lightweight, open weave fabrics to be printed in order to maintain stability of the face fabric. The back-grey and face fabric are gummed together prior to the combined fabric itself being gummed to the printing table conveyor belt. Synthetic polymer fibre fabrics may be gummed to the back-grey to prevent slipping. See also Bump-grey. See Filler. Also known as French back weave. A reversible fabric is achieved by using one warp and two wefts. No binder yarn is used A fabric woven with an extra set of yarns, either warp or weft, to add weight and/or strength. 1. A reinforcing layer of fabric adhered to the reverse side of a fabric. 2. All materials in a pile yarn floor-covering other than pile yarn; a fabric into which a pile yarn is in-serted. In pile fabrics, the base yarn that holds the pile in place, formed by the stuffer yarn and the warp and weft of the fabric. In tufted pile yarn floor covering, the fabric through which the pile yarn is carried by needles to form tufts; the backing fabric A material adhered to the backing fabric side of a pile



63



BACKING, WARP



fabrics



BACKING, WEFT



fabrics



BACTERIAL RESISTANCE



general



BACTERIOSTAT



processes, operations



BAD CAST



defects



BAD COVER



defects



backing fabric yarn floor covering. side Additional warp Additional warp on the back on the back of a of a fabric, bound or stitched fabric to the ground structure so that it does not interfere with the appearance of the face, giving greater weight, thickness, warmth, etc. Additional weft Additional weft on the back on the back of a of a fabric, bound or stitched fabric to the ground structure so that it does not interfere with the appearance of the face, giving greater weight, thickness, warmth, etc. The resistance to The resistance to the the development development of visible of visible bacterial growth and bacterial growth accompanying odours, and resulting from bacterial accompanying degradation of fibres or soil odours on them, as distinguished from musty fungal odours. Chemical Chemical compound, compound, applied to fabric, which kills applied to fabric or inhibits growth of bacteria contacting fabric. An abruptly An abruptly increased increased diameter in raw silk thread. diameter in raw It is usually caused by the silk thread. improper joining of a single cocoon filament to the thread during the reeling operation. Fabric defect. Fabric defect. a. The spaces between the threads are more pronounced than is required in the fabric. The degree of cover can be affected by loom adjustments, sett, or count of reed, or by the construction of the yarns used.



64



BAD LISTING



defects



BAD ODOUR



defects



BAD TEMPLE



defects



BAG CLOTH



fabrics



BAGGING



processes, operations fabrics



BAGGING FABRIC



BAGGING OUT



processes, operations



See Cut selvedge. Fabric defect



b. In a finished fabric, the surface is not covered or the underlying structure not concealed by the finishing materials used, to the degree required. See Cut selvedge. Fabric defect. Any of an array of objectionable odours often noted in fabrics, unfinished or finished. Usually caused by some chemical action which has not been properly controlled such as in application, washing, scouring, fulling, etc. See Temple mark.



See Temple mark. Woven fabric of Woven fabric of inferior inferior quality quality yarns, heavily sized yarns, heavily to prevent penetration. sized to prevent Used, as the name implies, penetration. for bags and sacks to hold dry goods such as flour, beans, lentils, etc. When the sizing is washed out, the fabric becomes soft, which are sometimes used for dusters and cleaning clothes. See Tacking See Tacking, 2. Also called Gunny. A very heavy, loosely woven fabric from heavy tightly twisted roving



Also called Gunny. A very heavy, loosely woven fabric from heavy tightly twisted roving, consisting largely of reworked and waste fibres, principally cotton and jute. Used for bale covering, etc. See also Sacking A method of A method of joining facings joining facings and/or linings to the outer and/or linings to fabric of a garment by



65



BAGGY CLOTH BAGGY SELVEDGE



defects defects



BAGHDAD WOOL



fibers, filaments, yarns



BAGHEERA VELVET



fabrics



BAIL



accessories



BAININ



fabrics



BAIZE



fabrics



BAKING



processes, operations



BALANCE



garments, madeups, assemblies



BALANCE MARKS



processes,



the outer fabric of sewing them together face a garment to face in the form of a bag and then turning the garment out to the Right side. See Wavy cloth. See Wavy cloth. See Slack See Slack selvedge. selvedge Dark carpet wool Dark carpet wool from from Mesopotamia. Mesopotamia. Piece-dyed Piece-dyed velvet with a velvet with a rough surface. Used for rough surface outerwear as the rough surface makes it largely uncrushable. See also Velvet. Also called Lug. Also called Lug. In zippers, a portion or portions of the slider to which the pull or pulls are attached Loosely Loosely constructed, handconstructed, woven fabric from Ireland, hand-woven made of woollen homespun. fabric from Used for coats, skirts, Ireland stoles, etc. Also called Baze. Also called Baze. PlainPlain-woven, woven, coarse short napped coarse short woollen felt fabric. Used as napped woollen wall covering and for felt fabric. covering tables and screens. Treatment of a Treatment of a dry fabric dry fabric with dry heat such as Curing, Thermofixation, Thermosoling. In garments, the In garments, the adjustment adjustment of the of the relation of one section relation of one of a garment to another, in section of a harmony with the natural garment to attitude of the figure, another especially that of the back and front lengths Notches, nips or Notches, nips or threads in



66 operations



BALANCE WHEEL



apparatus, equipage, tools



BALANCED CRÊPE



fabrics



BALANCED FABRIC



fabrics



BALANCED TWILL



fabrics



BALANCED TWIST



fibers, filaments, yarns



threads in garment parts, which help to preserve the balance of the garments by serving as guides during assembly. Also called Hand wheel. In sewing machine



garment parts, which help to preserve the balance of the garments by serving as guides during assembly. They are generally put at side seams, hind arm and forearm seams and elsewhere as necessary Also called Hand wheel. In sewing machine, a pulley that incorporates a counter balance to stabilise the driven shaft of the machine. A crepe which A crepe which has alternate has alternate yarns of ‘S’ and ‘Z’ crepe yarns of ‘S’ and twist in both warp and filling ‘Z’ crepe twist in both warp and filling Fabric in which Fabric in which the number the number of of ends/inch is equal to the ends/inch is number of picks/inch and equal to the both of the yarns are of the number of same count (or number). picks/inch and both of the yarns are of the same count (or number). Also called Even- Also called Even-sided twill. sided twill. Twill weave fabric in which the floats in both warp and weft directions span equal numbers of crosswise yarns. without tension A combination of single and An arrangement ply twists that will produce of twist in a plied yarn or cord which will not yarn or cord, twist on itself when held in the form of an open loop or suspended without tension An arrangement of twist in a plied yarn or cord, which will not cause twisting on itself when the yarn or cord is held in the form of an open



67



BALANCED YARNS



fibers, filaments, yarns



BALBRIGGAN



fabrics



BALE



fibers, filaments, yarns, fabrics



BALE DYEING



processes, operations



BALL WARPING



processes, operations



loop. Yarns in which Yarns in which the twist is the twist is such such that the yarn will hang that the yarn will in a loop without kinking, hang in a loop doubling, or twisting upon without kinking, itself. doubling, or A yarn with balanced twist. twisting upon itself. Light, knit fabric Light, knit fabric made on a made on a circular knitting machine. circular knitting Was originally made at machine. Balbriggan in Ireland and used for hosiery. Now used for sportswear, underwear and pyjamas. Usually made from cotton, it may have a slight fleece on the wrong side. A compressed 1. A compressed package of package of cotton, wool, or staple fibre. cotton, wool, or 2. A bag, sack, etc., square staple fibre. or oblong usually made of jute or burlap containing packages of fibre, yarn, and sometimes fabric. Bales are usually compressed. The sizes and weights of bales vary. The dyeing of 1. The dyeing of cloth cloth without without previous scouring, previous such that the sized warp scouring,Dyeing yarns take up dye while of loose stock greasy weft yarns do not. Imitation chambray is sometimes bale dyed. 2. Dyeing of loose stock (usually synthetic polymer fibre) in the form of an unpacked bale The process of The process of winding a winding a group group of warp yarns in the of warp yarns form of a twistless rope into a ball, cheese or cake. See also Warping.



68 BALLET TOE



garments, madeups, assemblies



BALLING UP BALLOON CLOTH



defects fabrics



BALLOONING



processes, operations



BALLOONING EYE



apparatus, equipage, tools



BALLOONING YARN



processes, operations



BALMORAL



fabrics



BAN-LON



fabrics



In knitting, a type In knitting, a type of reverse of reverse toe toe in which the toe yarn on the upper side covers the ends of the toes only, and the toe is usually extended and more pointed. See Fuzz ball. See Fuzz ball. Plain-weave Plain-weave cotton cloth cotton cloth made from high quality fine made from high yarn, very closely woven. quality fine yarn Once used for ready-made shirts, for typewriter ribbons and, of course for balloons. The entrapment The entrapment of air, either of air deliberately or accidentally, by a fabric during wet processing. Also called Also called Twizzle, Lappet. Twizzle, Lappet. A yarn-guide that forms the apex of the yarn balloon. See Ballooning yarn The appearance The appearance of the of the curved curved paths of running paths of running yarns during spinning, yarns doubling, or winding-on, or while they are being withdrawn over-end from packages under appropriate conditions. The shape of the balloon is determined by several factors, among which are: air-resistance to the passage of yarn around a package, centrifugal force acting on the revolving yarn, type and linear density of yarn, yarn-winding speed, length of balloon, and mass of traveller, if used. A strong, heavy, A strong, heavy, British British woollen woollen fabric made in a fabric made in a twill weave; stripes of red, twill weave black, and grey feature in the material A trade name for A trade name for fabrics



69



BANANA FIBRES



fibers, filaments, yarns



BAND



fabrics



BAND KNIFE



apparatus, equipage, tools



BAND WARPING BANDAGE



processes, operations fabrics



BANDED LACES



accessories



fabrics made with made with texturised yarns. texturised yarns. Fabrics made from these yarns are soft, strong, easy to wash, quick drying and crease and shrink-resistant. See Texturising. Fibres obtained Fibres obtained from plants from plants of the of the banana family. banana family. A weft-way A weft-way region of the region of the fabric that extends across fabric that the full width and is different extends across from the rest of the fabric. It the full width may not run parallel with the picks, and may or may not have clearly defined edges. A mechanically A mechanically driven driven endless endless moving blade, moving blade, which passes through a slot in a table. Normally used for cutting many layers of cloth at the same time. See Pattern See Pattern warping. warping. A narrow, loosely A narrow, loosely woven woven fabric fabric made of cotton and made of cotton occasionally linen in a plain and occasionally weave, resembling gauze. linen in a plain Used for medical purposes. weave, Generally bleached and resembling shipped in sterilised gauze packages. It is available in squares, triangular bandages and rolled bandages in a great variety of widths. Laces, produced Laces, produced on a warpon a warpknitting or twist-lace knitting or twist- machine. Narrow bands or lace machine. strips, used for trimming garments. The band are usually held together for finishing purposes and subsequently separated. The three main types are:



70



BANG OFF



defects



BANNOCKBURN



fabrics



BAR



defects



BARATHEA



fabrics



1. EDGINGS: Narrow bands of lace with one straight edge for sewing purposes and the other made ornate by scalloping and using pearls. Used for sewing onto edges of a garment. 2. INSERTIONS: Banded laces with two straight sewing edges, used for inserting between two panels of fabric. 3. GALLOONS: Banded laces scalloped or fancy at both edges, used to sew on the top of a fabric for decorative purposes. Fabric defect. Fabric defect. See Fine filling bar. Top quality Top quality tweed cloth, in tweed cloth which a single colour yarn is alternated with a yarn made of two colours; the yarns are twisted together before weaving. Fabric named after the Scottish town of Bannockburn that has long been the centre of an area producing these fabrics. Used for suits and coats. Fabric defect. Fabric defect. Also called Shade bar. A bar that has developed a different colour from the adjacent fabric during, or subsequent to, dyeing and finishing owing to damage or contamination of otherwise normal fabric or of weft yarn prior to weaving. Expensive fine Expensive fine English English cloth cloth, closely woven with slight diagonal-weave appearance and broken rib effect. Feels smooth to



71



BARBE BARE CLOTH



fibers, filaments, yarns defects



touch but has a granular or pebbled appearance. Originally in worsted and silk, but now made with synthetic fibres such as viscose, acetate and polyester. Mainly used as wool suiting or uniform fabric and also for men’s evening clothes and for coats and skirts for women. The best types are fine botany worsted fabrics, firm and compact in structure with a clean finish. The weave is a special form of twilled rib weave which in combination with the fine setting pro-duces a finely indented fabric surface with faint regular twill lines running in opposite directions. The weave can be simple or more complex but the general effect is similar. In fine qualities this fab-ric makes up well in classic styles. Cheaper forms of barathea use woollen weft, and a mixture of wool and a cheaper fibre, which produces a fabric with a more fibrous surface and less distinct face effect than the true fabric. Man-made staple fibres can also be used to give cheaper, lighter weight, versions of this fabric. See under Fibre See under Fibre length. length. A fabric with bad 1. A fabric with bad cover. cover 2. A fabric, the surface of which is not raised, brushed, or napped to the required degree.



72 BARÉGE BARK CRÊPE



fabrics fabrics



BARMEN LACE



fabrics



BARMEN MACHINE



apparatus, equipage, tools processes, operations



BARNSLEY FINISH



BARRAS



fabrics



BARRÉ



defects



See Barrége. Heavy crêpe fabric with rough texture, like tree bark Narrow lace made on a type of braiding machine



See Barrége. Heavy crêpe fabric with rough texture, like tree bark. Usually viscose or polyester. Stiff fabric for eveningwear. Narrow lace made on a type of braiding machine, on which individual carrier movements are controlled by a patterning mechanism. See Barmen machine. See under Lace See under Lace machines. machines. A term used for a A term used for a finish finish applied to applied to heavy linen drills. heavy linen drills. The bleached cloth is run through a mangle, starched lightly, and dried. It is then run through a light calendar, passed through hot water onto rollers, where it remains for 5 to 6 hours, and dried. It is pressed in single folds separated by pasteboards in a hydraulic press. a coarse linen Originally produced in fabric similar to Holland; it is a coarse linen sackcloth. fabric similar to sackcloth. See Sacking. Fabric defect, Fabric defect, usually major. usually major Also called Barré mark, Barriness and Barry. 1. In woven fabrics. An unintentional, repetitive visual pattern of continuous bars and stripes usually parallel to the weft of fabric. A stripe-like effect where one or more picks are characterised by an apparent difference in colour, lustre, or physical arrangement that is repeated at intervals across



73



BARRED



defects



BARRÉGE



fabrics



BASIC DYES



chemicals, textile auxiliaries



the warp direction, caused probably due to mechanical faults in the loom, or variations in lustre or dye absorption, etc. of yarns. 2. In knit fabric. Fabric will appear to have horizontal streaks or bands parallel to the courses of weft knitted fabrics, caused by differences in yarn size, tension on yarns or fabric, colour, lustre or shrinkage, from one section of the cloth to the adjacent area. Fabric defect. Fabric defect. A bar effect produced by stripes or bars extending crosswise in woven or knitted goods. Very sheer fabric Also called Barége. Very of wool and silk sheer fabric of wool and silk or cotton used for or cotton used for veiling. veiling. Originates from Barége in the Pyrenees. Unsuitable for clothing. Drapes well but will not withstand strain in wear. These are The outstanding cationic dyes characteristic of these dyes are their brilliance and intensity. Some of the shades are of such clarity of hue, that no other class can compare with them them. These are cationic dyes that dissociate in an aqueous medium to give a positively charged coloured ion (cation) with affinity for fibres containing acidic groups. To apply it on cotton, a tannin mordanting is necessary; still the fastness is only just moderate. Can be applied without mordant on wool



74



BASIC FINISHES



processes, operations



BASIS WEIGHT OF FABRIC BASKET



fabrics



BASKET WEAVE



fabrics



BAST FIBRE



fibers, filaments, yarns



fabrics



and silk, but again the results are characterised more by brightness than fastness. Specially developed basic dyes for acrylics are quite fast. Basic dyes are: suitable for acrylic fibres, suitable for wool and silk fibres, but now the usage is declining, suitable for cotton, linen, viscose rayon, and cuprammonium rayon fibres, but lacks fastness and now obsolete. Mechanical or chemical processes applied in some form to a constructed fabric.



Mechanical or chemical processes applied in some form to a constructed fabric. Mass per unit Mass per unit area of fabric, area of fabric e.g. oz/sq. yd., g/m2 A variation of the A variation of the plain plain weave weave, where groups of adjacent warps are each woven as one and picks are inserted in groups of two or more in each shed. The formation resembles a plaited basket. See also Hopsack. A variation of the A variation of the plain plain weave weave, where groups of adjacent warps are each woven as one and picks are inserted in groups of two or more in each shed. The formation resembles a plaited basket. Fibres derived Fibres derived from the from the inner inner fibrous bark of fibrous bark of dicotyledonous plants such dicotyledonous as flax, hemp and jute. plants



75 BASTARD



fabrics



a substitute In textiles, the term indicates fabric, a copy a substitute fabric, a copy cloth or an cloth or an inferior material. inferior material. The general connotation is that the so-called bastard fabric does not have all of the desirable characteristics of the cloth it purports to copy. BASTARD YARNS fibers, filaments, A term for yarns A term for yarns which are yarns which are spun spun harder than filling but harder than filling not as hard as regular warp twist. They are used for making plied yarns. BASTE seams, stitches Fibres derived Fibres derived from the from the inner inner fibrous bark of fibrous bark of dicotyledonous plants such dicotyledonous as flax, hemp and jute. plants s BASTING seams, stitches See Baste See Baste BATCH general, processes, The process of 1. One group of material operations winding cloth on which is to be processed a roller (usually dyed) as a unit. 2. The process of winding cloth on a roller after it has been passed through a dye solution. BATCH CURE processes, A procedure A procedure used in curing operations used in curing durable press garments. By durable press this method, one batch at a garments. time is put into the curing oven. BATCHWISE processes, Processing of Processing of materials as PROCESS operations materials as lots lots or batches in which the or batches whole of each batch is subjected to one stage of the process at a time. See also Continuous process. BATH SHEET garments, madeSee under See under Towel. ups, assemblies Towel. BATH TOWEL garments, made- See under Towel See under Towel ups, assemblies BATHROBE CLOTH fabrics A double-faced A double-faced cotton cotton blanket blanket fabric woven with a



76 fabric



BATIK



processes, operations



Term for a resist process of patterning cloth.



BATISTE



fabrics



A fine, soft, plainwoven fabric, originally of linen and then in cotton.



BATT



fibers, filaments, yarns fabrics



BATTENBERG LACE



tightly twisted warp and two sets of soft filling yarns, heavily napped to produce a soft surface. Term for a resist process of patterning cloth. A method, of dyeing, originated in Java, in which wax is employed in an innovative fashion. The design is formed by coating parts of the fabric with wax which protects these parts from the dyestuff. The wax is removed by boiling. This process is repeated as many times as there are colours in the design. Fabrics, usually cotton, are labelled ‘ba-tik’ when they feature this type of print. Designs are often large and placed centrally; borders are usually featured. Used for casual dresses, shirts, beachwear. A fine, soft, plain-woven fabric, originally of linen and then in cotton. But now may be polyester. Slightly heavier than voile, in white or plain colours. Creases easily but is strong, wears well, and washes and boils. Used for underwear, shirts, blouses, nightwear, children’s clothes, handkerchiefs, etc. A carded lap of fibres.



A carded lap of fibres. Coarse type lace Coarse type lace often often made from made from linen thread and linen thread used mainly in small areas, such as collars and cuffs, although it is a popular



77



BATTING



fibers, filaments, yarns



Cotton or polyester fleece used for quilting



BATTING INTEGRITY



fibers, filaments, yarns



The ability of a textile filling material to resist distortion



BAULK FINISH



processes, operations



A finish by which woollen material is lightly milled



BAUMÉ, DEGREES



general



A scale used for measurement of the relative density (RD) of liquids by hydrometry.



BAURETTE



fibers, filaments, yarns fibers, filaments, yarns



See Noil



BAVE



BAZE BCF



fabrics fibers, filaments, yarns



BEAD



accessories



heavy curtain lace. Cotton or polyester fleece used for quilting, in quilted fabrics. A textile filling material consisting of a continuous web of fibres formed by carding, garnetting, air laying or other means. The ability of a textile filling material to resist distortion or change when subjected to multiple home launderings or drycleanings. A finish by which woollen material is lightly milled in the grease, scoured, dyed, tentered to width and lightly pressed. A scale used for measurement of the relative density (RD) of liquids by hydrometry. The following formula expresses the relationship between relative density, and degrees Baumé (° Be), for liquids more dense than water See Noil



The silk fibre The silk fibre complete with complete with its its natural gum (sericin) as it natural gum is withdrawn from a cocoon (sericin) formed by a silk worm. It comprises two brins. See Baize. See Baize. Short for Bulked Short for Bulked Continuous Continuous Filament. A textured, Filament continuous filament yarn, generally used either as a pile yarn in carpets or for upholstery fabrics. See also Textured yarn. IN SEPARATE 1. IN SEPARATE



78 ELEMENT ZIPPERS, IN CONTINUOUS ELEMENT ZIPPERS



BEAD WRAPPING FABRIC BEADED SELVEDGE



fabrics defects



BEADING BEADING LACE



defects fabrics



BEAM



apparatus, equipage, tools



BEAM DYEING



processes, operations



BEAM WARPING



processes,



ELEMENT ZIPPERS, an enlarged section on the inner edge of each tape to which inter-lockable elements are affixed. 2. IN CONTINUOUS ELEMENT ZIPPERS, an optional enlarged section of the tape located at the outer edge of the continuous interlockable elements and against which the slider flanges bear. See under Tyre See under Tyre textiles textiles See Loopy See Loopy selvedge. selvedge See Buttoning. See Buttoning. Very narrow, Very narrow, insertion laces. insertion laces. They are often openwork hemstitching or faggot stitch, or may have slits for inserting ribbons. A large spool A large spool with end with end flanges flanges on to which a on to which a multitude of warp yarns are multitude of warp wound parallel in such a yarns are wound way, to permit the removal parallel of these yarns as a warp sheet, and used for such purposes as weaving or warp knitting. Fabric also may be wound on beam. A method of A method of dyeing warp dyeing warp yarns or fabrics wound on to yarns or fabrics a perforated beam. The wound on to a beam is placed in the dyeing perforated beam machine and the dye solution is pumped through the yarn from the centre of the beam outward and then from the outside yarn surface to the centre of the beam. Winding a part of Winding a part of the total



79 operations



BEARDED NEEDLE BEARERS



BEAT-UP BEATING



apparatus, equipage, tools garments, madeups, assemblies



the total number of ends in full width on to a warp beam See under Needle. In trousers, sections fastened to the side seams of some styles See Beating-up



processes, operations general, processes, A term used in operations wool industry for spare threads that are run from a warp during weaving.



BEATING-UP



processes, operations



One of the basic motions involved in weaving.



BEAVER CLOTH



fabrics



Expensive coating material, heavily napped and raised and made to look like beaver fur.



BEAVERTEEN



fabrics



A fabric having a very high weft



number of ends in full width on to a warp beam.



See under Needle. In trousers, sections fastened to the side seams of some styles, to take the weight of the trousers when the fronts are opened. See Beating-up 1. A term used in wool industry for spare threads that are run from a warp during weaving. They can be used for replacing missing ends during the mending process. 2. A finishing process which generally consists of manually beating certain raised wool fabrics with sticks, but now mechanised. Also called Beat-up. One of the basic motions involved in weaving. The inserted weft yarn is pushed up against the fell of the cloth by the reed, i.e. the process of forcing a weft yarn into position in a fabric. Expensive coating material, heavily napped and raised and made to look like beaver fur. Woven in a variety of weights in single or double satin weaves from high quality woollen yarns. Used for overcoats and winter jackets for men and women. A fabric having a very high weft sett used chiefly for



80



BECK



apparatus, equipage, tools



BECKE LINES



fibers, filaments, yarns



BED



apparatus, equipage, tools



BEDCOVERING



garments, madeups, assemblies



BEDFORD CLOTH



fabrics



BEDFORD CORD



fabrics



sett used chiefly heavy trouserings. The for heavy fabric is piece dyed and has trouserings. a short, soft raised finish on the back. It is heavier than Imperial sateen. Also called Also called Kettle, Trough. Kettle, Trough. An open-topped vessel used to hold treating liquors, e.g. wash or dye liquor. Lines which Lines which appear at the appear at the edge of a microscope image edge of a of a fibre caused by the microscope refraction at the fibre edge. image of a fibre In sewing In sewing machine, the part machine, the part below the material being below the sewn. It consists of a material being casting which houses and sewn. provides mounting points for the moving parts inside. A textile product A textile product used on a used on a bed bed over the sheets for over the sheets warmth and/or decoration. See Bedford See Bedford cord. cord. Firmly woven Firmly woven heavy heavy hardwearing fabric, very hardwearing stable, showing prominent fabric, very rounded cords in the warp stable, showing direction with pronounced prominent sunken lines between them. rounded cords in These typical narrow warp the warp cord effects are produced by direction with a special cord weave pronounced structure. The weave on the sunken lines face of the cords is usually between them. plain, but other weaves may be used. There are weft floats the width of the cords on the back. Wadding may be used to accentuate the prominence of the cords. Used originally for riding breeches but also used for ordinary suiting, casual



81



BEDSPREAD



garments, madeups, assemblies



BEER



fabrics



BEETLE



fabrics



BEETLING BEGGAR’S INKLE



processes, operations accessories



BEIGE



fabrics, fibers,



trousers, uniforms and upholstery. Traditionally wool, cotton or a mixture of the two; but now for dress purposes, carded cotton yarns, woollen or worsted yarns, viscose acetate, polyester or combinations of yarns used. Conventionally the cords are regular and of even size but different sizes are used in stripe form for dress use. The wales can be wide and stiffer yarns can be present. Light Bedford cord is used for dresses, children’s clothes, etc. A type of A type of bedcovering that is bedcovering that placed over the blankets is placed over and sheets for appearance the blankets and and/or warmth. sheets Also called Bier. Also called Bier. A definite A definite number of warp threads, number of warp usually 40. A warp is said to threads, usually consist of so many beers, 40 e.g. 2400 ends would be 60n beers. Soft, full, close Soft, full, close and lustrous and lustrous finished fabric of cellulosic finished fabric of fabric, particularly linen or cellulosic fabric, cotton. Finish produced by a particularly linen process called ‘beetling’; the or cotton. damp fabric, wrapped on a wooden or metal beam or roller, is pounded repeatedly by wooden or metal hammers or fallers. See under Beetle See under Beetle An old type narrow fabric A term for cloth



An old type narrow fabric constructed as Linseywolsey 1. A term for cloth in the



82 filaments, yarns



BELLIES



fibers, filaments, yarns



BELLY BANDS



fibers, filaments, yarns garments, madeups, assemblies garments, madeups, assemblies



BELT BELT LOOP



BELTING



garments, madeups, assemblies



in the natural or natural or undyed unfinished undyed state. unfinished state. 2. Unbleached wool The coarser The coarser quality of wool quality of wool from the underside of a sheep See Wrapper See Wrapper fibres fibres A girdle or 1. A girdle or waistband. waistband. 2. See under Tyre textiles. A loop of fabric A loop of fabric or thread or thread which which is sewn into the waist is sewn into the of the garment. The degree waist of the of fit is adjustable by means garment. of a belt drawn through the loop or loops. A term covering A term covering all forms of all forms of belts, belts, and rolls of material and rolls of from which belts are made material from up, that are designed for which belts are industrial and mechanical made up uses, e.g. for the transmission of power or for the purpose of conveying or elevating. Endless woven belting: A woven narrow fabric, usually in plain or 2/2 twill weave, in which the warp consists of one continuous thread wound in a helix to the required length and woven without join or splice so that the first pick and last picks are adjacent. Solid woven belting: Belting consisting of more than one ply, the plies being interlocked in the weave, or bound together by binding threads in the course of weaving. Solid woven belting is usu-ally impregnated or otherwise treated to increase the



83



BELWARP FABRIC



fabrics



BEMBERG



fabrics



BEMBERGIZING



processes, operations



BENARES



fabrics



BENDING LENGTH



fabrics



BENGALINE



fabrics



coefficient of friction and the resistance to moisture and rotting, to improve linear stability, and to impart other desirable properties. A fine worsted dress-cloth having a corkscrew twill weave with a clear finish.



A fine worsted dress-cloth having a corkscrew twill weave See See Bembergizing Bembergizing A process used A process used for for developing a developing a high lustre on high lustre on wool. Worsted yarn is wool. treated in a bath of sodium bisulphate at a high temperature under mechanical tension to prevent shrinking, boiled for sometime in a weak mineral acid under relaxing (minimum) tension, and then rinsed in water. A high lustre is produced, and the yarn is elongated by approximately one third. Lightweight Lightweight cotton or silk cotton or silk fabric from India. Usually fabric from India. woven with metallic threads, often in border design A measure of the A measure of the interaction interaction between fabric weight and between fabric fabric stiffness as shown by weight and fabric the way in which a fabric stiffness bends under its own weight. It reflects the stiffness of a fabric when bent in one plane under the force of gravity, and is one component of drape. a fabric with a Originally the fabric came more or less from Bengal. Now, a fabric striking warp-rib with a more or less striking appearance warp-rib appearance



84



BENT HANDLED SHEARS



apparatus, equipage, tools



BERBER



garments, madeups, assemblies



BERLIN



garments, madeups, assemblies



BERLIN SILK



fibers, filaments, yarns



BESPOKE



general



running across running across the fabric, the fabric, produced from cotton, produced from worsted, silk or other cotton, worsted, continuous filament yarns, silk or other or in part from any of the continuous materials named; a typical filament yarns example being silk warp and worsted weft. The warp-rib or corded effect may be produced by (i) suitable thickness and setting of warp and weft threads, (ii) suitable warp-rib weaves or a combination of (i) and (ii). Used for coats, suits, dresses, and ribbons; can also be made as curtain fabric. Scissors with Scissors with blades angled blades angled so that fabric can be cut while lying flat. manufactured Originally the term carpets made described hand spun, hand from natural woven, African carpets with coloured wools, simple tribal motifs. Now, or dyed fibre, and the term is commonly used having a to describe manufactured homespun carpets made from natural appearance. coloured wools, or dyed fibre, and having a homespun appearance. Wool rag in the Wool rag in the finer finer machinemachine-knitted grades knitted grades A type of A type of crocheting silk crocheting silk made by twisting 4 to 8 single yarns with a right hand twist and then twisting 3 of these with a left hand twist. The yarn is high twist and therefore round, smooth and hard. Those textile Those textile materials materials which which are made to order of are made to an individual or a firm.



85



BETA-NAPHTHOL



³



BEUTANOL



fabrics



BEVEL-WOVEN MATERIAL



fabrics



BI-AXIAL FABRIC



fabrics



BIAS BIAS BINDING



defects processes, operations



order of an individual or a firm. A developer used A developer used in dyeing in dyeing of developed azo colours on cotton. See Developed dyes. Fabrics treated Fabrics treated with number with number of of coats of vinyl plastic to coats of vinyl improve their pliability, finish plastic to improve and hand. Such fabrics are their pliability, flame-resistant, waterproof, finish and hand. stainproof and dustproof. Usually vat dyeing precedes the coating process. A woven fabric in A woven fabric in which which warp bow warp bow is intentionally is intentionally introduced. introduced. A warp-knitted A warp-knitted construction construction in which additional, substantially straight, vertical (warp) threads and horizontal (weft) threads are inserted throughout the complete width and length of the fabric. See Skewness See Skewness The process of The process of making a making a product product by cutting, woven, by cutting, wide fabric at an oblique woven, wide direction to warp and weft. fabric at an ‘True bias’ is at an angle of oblique direction 45° from both warp and to warp and weft weft. Most bias bindings have regularly spaced joins governed by the width of the original wide fabric, but if converted from tubular fabric, joins are avoided. Bias bindings do not fray and will stretch, and they are thus suitable for binding seams and conforming to curved contours. Bias



86



BIAS CUT



processes, operations



BIAS FILLING BICOMPONENT FIBRES



defects fibers, filaments, yarns



BICOMPONENT YARNS



fibers, filaments, yarns



bindings are usually folded into the centre, but other folded patterns as well as flat versions are produced. A cut at an A cut at an oblique angle to oblique angle to warp and weft. warp and weft. See Skewness. See Skewness. Also called Also called Biconstituent Biconstituent fibres, Bigeneric fibres. A fibres, Bigeneric fibre consisting of two fibres. A fibre polymers which are consisting of two chemically different, polymers which physically different, or both. are chemically A bicomponent fibre can be different, considered as a double physically filament in which two different, or both individual components are present, e.g. in the production of some bicomponent fibre, two filaments of different chemical composition are fused together during spinning to form one double filament. This structure gives the fibre special physical characteristics. The two chemically different forms will not react in the same way when subjected to heat or moisture. On heating, one side of the fibre shrinks more than the other, thus giving the bicomponent filament a high degree of crimp. The nature of this crimp is similar to that given by wool and is different from the mechanically induced crimps. There are different types of bicomponent fibres. Two-fold staple There are many different yarns,Two-fold types: (a) Two-fold staple continuous yarns, when the individual



87



BICONICAL PACKAGE



fibers, filaments, yarns



BICONSTITUENT FIBRES



fibers, filaments, yarns



BIER BIGENERIC FIBRES



fabrics fibers, filaments, yarns



BIGHT



seams, stitches



BILATERAL FIBRES



fibers, filaments, yarns



BILLIARD CLOTH



fabrics



filament components are different. yarns,Yarns in (b) Two-fold continuous which a filament filament yarns, when the yarn is doubled individual components are or folded with a different and (c) Yarns in staple fibre yarn, which a filament yarn is Core-spun yarns, doubled or folded with a wrapped yarns, staple fibre yarn (d) CoreFilament blend spun yarns, wrapped yarns, yarns, or other core-sheath configurations and (e) Filament blend yarns, where two or more singlecomponent filaments are spun in the same operation A conical A conical package of yarn in package of yarn which the traverse length is in which the progressively reduced to traverse length is produce tapered or rounded progressively ends; such packages are reduced referred to tapered cones or pineapple cones. Deprecated term. Deprecated term. Preferred term is Bicomponent fibres or Bigeneric fibres. See Beer. See Beer. See See Bicomponent fibres Bicomponent fibres Also called Bite. Also called Bite. The distance from the edge of a fabric or fabrics that the needle-thread penetrates in an overedge seam construction. A filament A filament composed of two composed of two generic fibre types or two generic fibre variants of the same generic types or two fibre extruded variants of the simultaneously in a side-bysame generic side relationship. Bilateral fibre and bicomponent are usually synonymous. Woollen fabric Woollen fabric made from made from fine fine Merino wool. Heavily



88 Merino wool.



BINCA CLOTH



fabrics



BINCHE LACE



fabrics



BINDER



BINDING



Also known as Boldwork cloth.



Lace. A six-point star-shaped ground net of snowflake effect fibers, filaments, The binding or yarns, accessories, wrapping yarn ³ used in the production of yarns



accessories



A narrow fabric, woven, braided or knitted, used to protect, support, or improve the appearance of a seam or edge



milled with a fibrous finish. Dyed green or very rarely, red for billiard or card table tops. Plain or twill weave, the cloth is of the highest quality and obviously smooth, even, and have substance and body. Also known as Boldwork cloth. Very distinctive embroidery fabric made in a range of colours. Characterised by the fairly large square holes between the blocks of threads. Used as a beginner’s embroidery fabric Lace. A six-point starshaped ground net of snowflake effect with a scroll pattern on it. 1. The binding or wrapping yarn used in the production of yarns on a hollow spindle spinning ma-chine. 2. An adhesive material used to hold together the fibres in a nonwoven fabric. 3. See Cut-off. A narrow fabric, woven, braided or knitted, used to protect, support, or improve the appearance of a seam or edge Glacé binding: Woven narrow fabric made from polished, stiff cotton warp and weft yarns, in a 3/1 twill weave. Used mainly in men’s tailoring trade. Simili binding: Binding made from mercerised cotton yarns throughout, in 3/1 broken twill weave in imitation of satin.



89



BINDING POINT



processes, operations



BIOFINISHING



processes, operations processes, operations processes, operations defects



BIOPOLISHING BIOSTONING BIRD’S EYE



BIRD’S EYE BACKING



fabrics



BIRD’S EYE WEAVE



fabrics



Stay binding: Woven narrow fabric with cotton warp and weft, in 2/2 twill weave or derivatives, gen-erally used for covering seams and strengthening garments. Also called Also called Stitch. A special Stitch. A special form of thread interlacing form of thread used, e.g. to join the layers interlacing of compound cloths (see Double cloth) or to consolidate single structures (see Hopsack). See under See under Enzymes Enzymes See under See under Enzymes. Enzymes. See under See under Enzymes. Enzymes. Fabric defect in Fabric defect in knitted knitted fabric fabric; major or minor depending on the severity. Unintentional tucking caused by a bent latch on the latch needle or by the needle not being raised to the proper height for the old loop then to be cast off. Usually two small distorted stitches, side by side In weft-knitted rib In weft-knitted rib jacquard jacquard fabric fabric, the reverse side characterised by courses in which knitted and float loops of one colour alternate with knitted and float loops of another, within and between succes-sive courses. A weave which A weave which suggests the suggests the eye eye of a bird; a fabric having of a bird; a pattern of very small and uniform spots, the result of weave and colour. The fabric is usually fine clearfinish worsted and the



90



BIREFRINGENCE



general



BISSO LINEN BISU



fabrics fibers, filaments, yarns



BITE BIVOLTINE SILK



seams, stitches fibers, filaments, yarns



BLACK FELT



fabrics



BLACK SUPERFINE



fabrics



BLACKJACK STAPLE



fibers, filaments, yarns



BLAKY SELVEDGES



defects



design gives the appearance of small indentations. It may be simulated in cotton or viscose, in which case it has a small diamond pattern with the bird’s eye indentation in the centre. Cotton fabrics are often used as towelling. A property of A property of anisotropic anisotropic materials, which manifests materials itself as a splitting of a light ray into components having different vibration directions which are transmitted at different velocities. See Altar cloth See Altar cloth. Also called Also called Husks. Silk Husks waste remaining on cocoons at the bottom of the basin after reeling. See Bight See Bight Silk produced by Silk produced by bivoltine bivoltine silkworm, which produces silkworm two generations per year. felt manufactured Those classifications of felt to various manufactured to various shades of the shades of the colour black. colour black. A fine grade of A fine grade of black black woollen woollen suiting fabric. Fairly suiting fabric. heavy, fulled, napped and sheared it has a soft, firm hand and a lustrous finish. Used for men’s evening clothes A smooth, dark, A smooth, dark, lustrous leaf lustrous leaf fibre fibre obtained from a species of the caryota palm in Srilanka. Used as a substitute for horsehair Fabric defect. Fabric defect. A wide term which implies that the



91



BLANKET



fabrics



For bedding, an unquilted fabric covering, designed primarily to provide thermal insulation.



BLANKET CLOTH



fabrics



Named after Thomas Blanqutte, a Flemish weaver who lived in the fourteenth century. Thick cloth heavily napped and



selvedge may be of incorrect yarn count/or ply, unevenly twisted yarn, crowded selvedge ends in the reed, poor harness timing, harness skips, poor temple setting, etc. For bedding, an unquilted fabric covering, designed primarily to provide thermal insulation. Conventional blanket: A blanket woven in either a plain or a twill weave that is napped on both sides. Flocked blanket: A blanket made with a fishnet-type scrim sandwiched between two thin layers of foam with flock adhered to the outside of the foam. Nonwoven blanket: A blanket produced by bonding or interlocking of fibres, or both, accompanied by mechanical, or solvent means, or combination thereof. Thermal blanket: A blanket woven so that cells or openings are created in the fabric so that air warmed by the body is trapped between the yarns, such as textured or leno weaves. This product may be napped or unnapped Named after Thomas Blanqutte, a Flemish weaver who lived in the fourteenth century. Thick cloth heavily napped and fulled. Suitable for rugs, dressing gowns, blankets, casual coats, shawls, stoles, etc. Warmest made in wool or worsted,



92 fulled



BLANKET MARK



defects



BLAZE



fibers, filaments, yarns fabrics



BLAZER CLOTH



BLEACH



chemicals, textile auxiliaries



BLEACHING



processes, operations



BLEACHING AGENT



³



but now also made from other fibres or mixtures. Not hardwearing if made into clothing. See Sanforizing See Sanforizing mark mark See Cocoon See Cocoon strippings. strippings A type of flannel A type of flannel or melton or melton used used for blazers. Usually for blazers. wool but can be mixtures. Was traditionally striped, but is now also in plain colours. Right side usually slightly napped. Used for blazers because it is not necessary to line it. Also called Also called Bleaching agent. Bleaching agent. A product for cleaning, A product for brightening, whitening, and cleaning, aiding the removal of soils brightening, and stains from textile whitening, materials by oxidation, that is inclusive of both chlorine and non-chlorine products. A chemical reagent that will destroy the natural colouring matter of textiles, leaving them considerably lighter in colour. Process of Process of improving the improving the whiteness of textile material whiteness of by decolorizing it from the textile material by grey state. In addition, decolorizing it bleaching increases the from the grey ability of the yarns and state fabrics to absorb dyestuffs uniformly, dissolves natural pectins, waxes, small particles of foreign matter, and warp sizing on the yarns. Peroxide or chlorine compounds are usually used for bleaching. See Bleach See Bleach



93 BLEACHING OF TEXTILE ARTICLES



processes, operations



BLEEDING



defects



BLEEDING CHECKS



fabrics



BLEND



fibers, filaments, yarns



A process carried out in an aqueous medium before, during or after washing processes



A process carried out in an aqueous medium before, during or after washing processes, requiring the use of a bleaching agent for the purpose of removing stains and/or improving whiteness See Colour bleeding.



See Colour bleeding. A plain weave, A plain weave, yarn dyed yarn dyed fabric fabric with colours, which with colours, may be caused to bleed. which may be These yarns form overcaused to bleed. checks, which bleed or run during the finishing process and tint the balance of the fabric. The mixture of The mixture of dissimilar dissimilar fibres fibres in any fibrous in any fibrous assembly such as sliver, assembly such yarn or fabric. Blend is an as sliver, yarn or intimate combination of fabric fibres before or during spinning so that individual yarns contain two or more different fibres. The reasons why blends of fibres are used, can apply in combination as well as separately; for economy (to reduce the cost of a fabric by the use of a cheap fibre blended with a more expensive fibre), for combination properties (to effect a compromise where no one fibre is ideal by combining two or more fibres each contributing something to the whole) and for decorative or colour effect (some fibres have a distinctive appearance, lustre or texture, and fibres vary in their affinity for dye).



94 BLEND TWIST BLENDED FABRIC



fibers, filaments, yarns fabrics



BLENDED YARN



fibers, filaments, yarns



BLENDING



processes, operations



BLIND HEM



garments, madeups, assemblies



BLIND STITCH



seams, stitches



BLIND TWILL



fabrics



BLINDING



defects



BLISTER KNIT



fabrics



See Blended See Blended yarn. yarn. A fabric, which A fabric, which has blended has blended yarns in either the warp or yarns the weft or in both Also callled Also callled Blend twist. A Blend twist yarn that contains more than one type of fibre or a yarn combination in which there are dissimilar component yarns, especially with respect to fibre and filaments. See also Combination yarn, Selfblended yarn The process of The process of producing a producing a Blend, i.e. to mix dissimilar Blend fibres prior to subsequent processing. Blending of fibres is done in the form of staple during preparation for spinning. Different types of filament are combined to form a blend filament yarn. See also Mixture fabric. A hemming A hemming method in which method the stitches are placed between the hem allowance and the outside of the garment. A stitch (either by A stitch (either by hand or hand or machine) machine), which does not go right through the fabric. A term for a A term for a fabric in which fabric in which the twill line is indistinct. the twill line is indistinct. a marked loss of Term used to describe a lustre of fibres marked loss of lustre of fibres during wet processing. A knit fabric with A knit fabric with an irregular an irregular raised surface that gives the raised surface impression of blisters or



95



BLOCK



apparatus, equipage, tools



BLOCK PATTERN



apparatus, equipage, tools



BLOCK PRINTING



processes, operations fabrics



BLONDE LACE



BLOOD



fibers, filaments, yarns



BLOOM



general



BLOT



defects



Wood, metal or linoleum blocks, engraved with patterns A template of the basic pattern shape



swellings. The blisters are formed during knitting special yarn on selected cylinder needles only, to form the surface-texture fabric. A base yarn is knitted on dial and cylinder needles to form the base fabric. Wood, metal or linoleum blocks, engraved with patterns, employed in block printing. A template of the basic pattern shape, upon which design details can be superimposed. See also Pat-tern. See Hand block printing



See Hand block printing Silk lace with Silk lace with floral designs floral designs but with boldly defined holes in the flower heads. Very expensive. A term used in A term used in connection connection with with various fractions (1/2 various blood, 3/4 blood, Full blood) fractionsof to denote the percentage of merino blood in a merino blood in a certain certain sheep. sheep. Now, in common practice, the term denotes any wool that is of the same fineness as the wool grown on such a sheep A surface A surface paleness paleness observed when a coloured textile material is viewed overhand. See Overhand. Printing defect. Printing defect. An area of uniform colour appearing incorrectly in a printed design. The defect is often caused by colour paste falling on to the fabric, or contamination from printing rollers or a screen.



96 BLOTCH



defects



BLOTCH PRINT



processes, operations



BLOW ROOM



general



BLUCHÉ BLUE STAINED COTTON BLUE-WHITE FINISH



fabrics fibers, filaments, yarns fabrics



BLUETTE



fabrics



BLUFF EDGES



garments, madeups, assemblies



BLUFFING



processes, operations



BLUING



processes, operations



Fabric defect. Also called Oil spot



Fabric defect. Also called Oil spot. An irregularly shaped off-coloured area caused mostly by grease or oil. The broad, solid The broad, solid background background expanse of colour in a expanse of printed design. The detail colour in a colours are usually on printed design different print-rollers or printscreens. A section in a The section in a cotton cotton spinning spinning mill where the mill preparatory processes of opening, cleaning and blending are carried out. See Bouché. See Bouché. See under See under Stained cotton Stained cotton Appearance of a Appearance of a fabric that fabric that has has been treated with a been treated with small amount of bluing after a small amount bleaching. The object is to of bluing after neutralise the yellowish bleaching. appearance of not fully bleached cotton. A weft faced 2/2 A weft faced 2/2 twill-weave twill-weave fabric fabric used for overalls. used for overall Originally made from bluedyed yarns, but now piecedyed also. Edges finished Edges finished without without outside outside stitching stitching the process of In garment manufacturing, fastening down the process of fastening the front edge of down the front edge of facings on to the facings on to the forepart forepart canvas canvas to preserve the shape of edges finished without outside stitching A step in the 1. A step in the process of process of bleaching white yarn or bleaching white fabric with a yellow cast to yarn or fabric make it whiter through the



97



BOARDING



processes, operations



BOARDY



fabrics



BOBBIN



apparatus, equipage, tools



with a yellow cast application of a blue or to make it whiter reddish-blue dyestuff, which neutralises the colour. 2. Any dyestuff used for bluing. A process, A process, involving heating involving heating under moist or dry under moist or conditions, carried out to dry conditions, confer a desired shape or carried out to size on hose or other knitted confer a desired garments whilst on a shape or size on ‘former’. When carried out hose or other before dyeing, the process knitted garments is known as Dye-boarding. whilst on a The article in the damp ‘former’. condition after scouring and/or bleaching and/or dyeing is dried on a specially shaped former, either by heating this former internally or by placing it between two steam-heated platens. If the drying is done in a hot chamber, the process is known as Machine finishing. When the boarding is done by pressing between heated platens, it is usually known as Trim pressing or Press finishing. Description of Description of woven and woven and knit knit fabrics that are hard, fabrics that are stiff or tough hand; they are hard, stiff or board-like. In knitted fabric it tough hand is mainly caused by stitches being too tight or yarn being too thick. A small tube, 1. IN SEWING MACHINE. A with or without small tube, with or without flanges, on to flanges, on to which is which is wound wound the under-thread of a the under-thread lockstitch machine. The of a lockstitch spool is held in the spool machine. case underneath the throat plate.



98



BOBBIN FININGS



fabrics



Lace. A leaverslace construction in which threads from the brass bobbin provide the filling-in of the objects



BOBBIN LACE



fabrics



Also called Pillow lace. Hand-made lace produced in the twisting and crossing of threads



BOBBIN NET



fabrics



Also called Sandfly net, Mosquito net. A hole-mesh fabric



2. IN SPINNING, AND WEAVING. A small spoollike body on which yarn is wound. Used in various forms Lace. A leavers-lace construction in which threads from the brass bobbin provide the filling-in of the objects. Both S and Z warps are necessary, and one thread of each twist is required for every bobbin thread. Although the warp threads traverse, the greater tension of the S-twist threads causes them to remain straight and to pull the bobbin threads sideways. The Z-twist warp threads interlace with the bobbin threads down the centre of the wale. In addition, thick threads from beams may be used, according to the pattern requirements, for outlining the objects. Also called Pillow lace. Hand-made lace produced in the twisting and crossing of threads that are fed from bobbins and worked into a pattern pricked on parchment or card pinned down to a pillow. As it is worked, the lace is secured in position by the insertion of pins into the pillow. A very old craft. Also called Sandfly net, Mosquito net. A hole-mesh fabric. Originally plain net, now commonly made on warp knitting machinery.



99 Used for bridal veils, mosquito nets and also as a foundation for embroi-dery. BOBBINET MACHINE apparatus, See under Lace See under Lace machines. equipage, tools machines. BOBBLING fabrics Unpleasant Unpleasant appearance of appearance of fabric surface of used fabric surface of garment, caused bytiny used garment fibre-ends sticking out on the face of the fabric, caused by regular wear and repeated refurbishings BODICE garments, made- The section of a The section of a woman’s ups, assemblies woman’s garment covering the body garment covering from neck to waist the body from neck to waist BODKIN apparatus, A pointed 1. A pointed instrument for equipage, tools instrument for piercing holes in cloth. piercing holes in 2. A needle with a blunt cloth point and a large eye for drawing tape, elastic, etc. through a hem, etc. 3. A bone or plastic instrument for removing bastings. BODY fabrics,accessories The compact, 1. The compact, solid, or solid, or firm feel firm feel of a fabric. of a fabric. 2. The area of woven fabric between the selvedges. 3. See Hood BODY CARPET garments, madePlain or Plain or patterned, ups, assemblies patterned, unbordered carpet in piece unbordered form. carpet in piece form. BODY DIMENSIONS garments, made- Garment-related Garment-related term. See ups, assemblies term under Garment sizing system BODY FLEX general The amount that The amount that the human the human body body will bend. The degree will bend of body flex is used as a measurement in determining the amount of stretch



100 required in a given apparel. Garment-related term. See under Garment sizing system. Usually cotton, linen, silk, etc. are boiled to remove the natural gums as one of the first steps in textile processing/finishing The removal of oils, sizing and other impurities from the textile material, in preparation for bleaching and dyeing. Also called Advertising tape. A weftless narrow fabric consisting of a number of warp threads held together with an adhesive. See Binca cloth Expensive, plushy, soft, firm, and thick, top quality fabric usually of wool, and often containing a small amount of special fibre, such as alpaca or mohair. Closely woven and of fine texture with a cut pile surface. This pile is cut in ribs running in the warp direction. Used for coats, cloaks, etc. A seed-case and its contents on the cotton plant.



BODY MEASUREMENTS



garments, madeups, assemblies



Garment-related term.



BOILING



processes, operations



BOILING-OFF



processes, operations



BOLDUC



accessories



Usually cotton, linen, silk, etc. are boiled to remove the natural gums The removal of oils, sizing and other impurities from the textile material, Also called Advertising tape.



BOLDWORK CLOTH BOLIVIA



fabrics fabrics



See Binca cloth Expensive, plushy, soft, firm, and thick, top quality fabric usually of wool



BOLL



general



BOLT BOLTING CLOTH



fabrics fabrics



A seed-case and its contents on the cotton plant. See Piece See Piece A lightweight A lightweight open fabric, open fabric, with with fine and uniform mesh, fine and uniform used for sifting flour or for mesh, used for screen-printing. Both warp sifting flour or for and weft threads are screen-printing. accurately spaced and are woven in simple leno or other non-slip con-struction



101



BOLTON SHEETING



fabrics



BOMBAX



fibers, filaments, yarns fabrics



BOMBAZINE



BOMBYX MORI SILK



fibers, filaments, yarns



BOND STRENGTH TEST



general



BONDED FABRIC



fabrics



in order to maintain the mesh size A sheeting fabric A sheeting fabric of 2/2 twill of 2/2 twill weave weave containing a containing a condenser weft. condenser weft. See under See under Cotton trees. Cotton trees. One of the oldest One of the oldest fabrics fabrics known, known, this was a fine silk or this was a fine wool fabric of plain or twill silk or wool fabric weave for formal dresses. In of plain or twill black, it was the traditional weave for formal mourning cloth. Now made dresses. from silk warp and worsted weft with imitations made from viscose or cotton. May be fairly crisp. Used mainly for evening and weddinggowns, if silk or viscose it is lustrous. Silk produced by Silk produced by the the cultivated cultivated silkworm, which silkworm feeds on mulberry leaves. A test to A test to measure the force measure the necessary to separate force necessary bonded layers of fabric or to separate floor covering. See also bonded layers of Adhesion test. fabric or floor covering A lightweight, 1. A lightweight, usually usually knitted, knitted, cloth which is cloth which is strengthened and thickened strengthened and by having a lining material thickened fixed to it permanently by means of heat and pressure. Often a very thin layer of foam interlining is placed between two layers of the fabric. 2. A layered fabric structure wherein a face or shell fabric is joined to a backing fabric, such as tricot, with an adhesive that



102



BONDED FIBRE FABRIC



fabrics



BOOK



fibers, filaments, yarns



BOOK CLOTH



fabrics



BOOK FOLD



processes, operations



BOOK MUSLIN



fabrics



These are made from a variety of fibres used on the same principle as in felt, but bonded together chemically



does not significantly add to the thickness of the combined fabrics. These are made from a variety of fibres used on the same principle as in felt, but bonded together chemically as, unlike wool, they do not have inherent felting properties. A structure consisting of one or more webs or masses of fibres held together with a bonding material or by fusion. These have developed into many directions, which include household clothes and cleaning pads, industrial and military protective clothing, disposables and as interfacing and other haberdashery items. See also Nonwoven fabrics. A parcel of hanks of raw silk whose total mass is usually 2 kg.



A parcel of hanks of raw silk whose total mass is usually 2 kg. Fabrics of many Fabrics of many qualities, qualities, used by used by book-binders. They book-binders are generally of plain weave, usually coloured, heavily filled, and calendered or embossed between hot rollers. A method of A method of folding the folding the fabric fabric; fabric doubled selvedge to selvedge, then folded back and forth upon itself in predetermined lengths. BORDER I The sides of a fabric, particularly when woven with a fancy design. A method of Inexpensive white muslinfolding the fabric type fabric, heavily sized.



103



BORDER



fabrics



BOTANY TWILL



fabrics



BOTANY WOOL



fibers, filaments, yarns,fabrics



BOTTOM ASSEMBLY



accessories



BOTTOM STOP



accessories



BOTTOM-CLOSED SHEDDING BOTTOMING



processes, operations processes, operations



BOUCHÉ



fabrics



Used for stiffening bags, hats, wide belts, etc.. The sides of a The sides of a fabric, fabric particularly when woven with a fancy design. Cloth woven from Cloth woven from botany botany quality quality worsted yarns in worsted yarns in various weights. The various weights weaves are 2 and 2 or 4 and 4 twills producing smooth fabric used for men’s and women’s suitings. Expensive cloth as botany is the top quality worsted yarn. Used for suits, skirts, et yarns and fabrics Term for yarns and fabrics made from fine made from fine merino wool. merino wool. See also under Wool. In zippers, the In zippers, the components components of of the lowermost part of the the lowermost slide fastener, which part of the slide determine whether the slide fastene fastener will be nonseparable or separable. See also Non-separable zipper and Separable zip-per A thorough In zippers, a part affixed to scouring both stringers immediately below, or over, the chain, holding the two stringers together at the bottom and preventing the slider from leaving chain See under See under Closed shedding Closed shedding A thorough 1. A thorough scouring, in scouring preparation for bleaching., dyeing, or finishing. 2. Dyeing a substrate for subsequent topping. Also called Also called Bluché. A plain Bluché weave, fine, woollen fabric left in the undyed state. Used as a shirting material,



104



BOUCLÉ



fibers, filaments, yarns,fabrics



A type of fancy yarn with a curl or loop effect, made from two or more threads twisted to-gether.



BOUCLÉ KNIT



fabrics



Knit fabric with a bouclé effect on the right side, achieved by the introduction of an inlaid yarn fed into the knitting machine and trapped as the knit stitch is made.



BOUND SEAMFINISH



seams, stitches



A finish for the raw edges of a plain seam, in which another fabric encloses the raw edges of



this cloth is much used by the clergy in France. 1. YARN. A type of fancy yarn with a curl or loop effect, made from two or more threads twisted together. Generally speaking, bouclé yarns exhibit an irregular pattern of semicircular loop and sig-moid spirals. Fibres used for bouclé yarns may be wool, worsted, polyester, nylon, viscose, acrylic or blends. 2. FABRIC. The fabric made from bouclé yarns has a rough surface. It may be either woven or knitted. With the latter, the loops appear only on the right side. The fabric has ‘give’ in it, due to the elasticity of the yarn, knitted bouclé tends to have quite a lot of give. Fabrics range from soft and lightweight to firm and coatweight Knit fabric with a bouclé effect on the right side, achieved by the introduction of an inlaid yarn fed into the knitting machine and trapped as the knit stitch is made. Fabrics are medium weight and are usually produced from polyester, nylon and acrylic yarns. Used for sweater dresses, sweater-type tops, jackets A finish for the raw edges of a plain seam, in which another fabric encloses the raw edges of one or more seam allowances. A bound seam-finish is made by (1)



105 one or more seam allowances.



BOURDON CORD



accessories



A cord consisting of a central core helically covered by continuous filament yarn



BOURDONETTE



fibers, filaments, yarns



A cord produced by twisting several yarns together



BOURETTE



fabrics



Silk cloth made with yarn spun from carded short fibres of lower quality waste silk



BOURRELET



fabrics



A weft knitted, non-jacquard double-jersey



encasing the raw seam allowance edge(s) in double-fold bias tape, seam binding or light weight fabric such as tricot or net. If tape or binding are used, the wider side of the tape or binding is underneath, (2) machine stitching through all thick-nesses close to the edge of the binding or the raw edge of the fabric. Usually each seam allowance is encased individually; occasionally, seam allowances may be placed together and treated as one, such as in necklines. (Compare Hong Kong seam finish.) A cord consisting of a central core helically covered by continuous filament yarn. Used as a means of accentuating or outlining motifs in lace fabrics and in the manufacture of trimmings. See also Gimp. A cord produced by twisting several yarns together for use as a heavy thread in lace fabrics in order to simulate a bourdon cord Silk cloth made with yarn spun from carded short fibres of lower quality waste silk. Fabric is hairy and interspersed with nubs of fibre. Used for blouses, shirts, soft jackets and skirts. A weft knitted, non-jacquard double-jersey fabric made on an interlock basis which



106 fabric made on an interlock basis which is characterised by horizontal ridges on the effect side



BOW



defects



BOWED FILLING BOWING



defects defects



BOWKING



processes, operations



is characterised by horizontal ridges on the effect side. The knitting sequence is generally a number of courses of interlock, followed by a number of courses knitted on one set of needles only. Fabric defect Fabric defect. Also called Bowed filling. Fabric condition resulting when weft yarns or knitted courses are displaced from a line perpendicular to the selvedges and form one or more arcs across the width of the fabric. Fabric defect See Bow Fabric defect. Fabric defect. 1. IN KNITTED FABRIC. Defect, may be major or minor. A curvature of the fabric courses, imposed during knitting or subsequent operations. This distortion is usually caused by the take-up mechanism of the knitting machine or through malfunctions in tentering. In solid colour fabrics, not very critical. 2. IN WOVEN FABRIC. Defect, may be major or minor. Curvature of the warp or weft in a cloth. The cloth is said to be warp or weftbowed according to which set of threads is curved. In solid colour fabrics not very critical. See also Skewness. Preliminary part Preliminary part of an old of an old bleaching process. The bleaching process of freeing textile process material from impurity by



107



BOWL



apparatus, equipage, tools



Also called Bucking.



BOX CLOTH



fabrics



All-wool, spun yarn fabric, with a fibrous surface and firm handle.



BOX DYEING



processes, operations



Method of dyeing in which fabric is run in a single piece



BOX LEATHER



fabrics



Good quality leather, which is boarded,



BOX LOOM



apparatus, equipage, tools



A loom having two or more shuttles



boiling them in lime. 1. One of a pair of large rollers forming a nip. 2. A cylinder driving a takeup package by frictional contact. 3. An open vessel for such wet treatments as wool scouring, crabbing, etc. Also called Bucking. Preliminary part of an old bleaching process. The process of freeing textile material from impurity by boiling them in lime. All-wool, spun yarn fabric, with a fibrous surface and firm handle. Surface completely covered with fibres so that no threads show. Woven in a variety of weaves, depending on the weight required. Used for leggings, coachman clothes and billiards cloth Method of dyeing in which fabric is run in a single piece, usually in rope form, through the dye liquor and then up and over oval, slatted rollers with each revolution; Good quality leather, which is boarded, i.e. the surface is broken up with parallel creases; a process only applied to top quality smooth leather. Very expensive. Used for shoes and handbags. See also Boarding. A loom having two or more shuttles used for weaving fabrics containing weft yarns different as to size, twist or



108



BOX MARK



defects



BOX PLEATS



garments, madeups, assemblies



See Shuttle mark. A form of enclosed pleat



BOX SPINNING



processes, operations



Also called Pot spinning,



BOX STAIN



defects



BRACE WEB



accessories



BRADFORD SPINNING



processes, operations



BRAID



accessories



BRAID WOOL



fibers, filaments, yarns



colour See Shuttle mark. A form of enclosed pleat achieved by double folding the fabric alternately in opposite directions. Also called Pot spinning, Bucket spinning. A type of spinning in which a revolving cylindrical container is used, the package being built up in the inside of the container. An early form of this de-vice was known as the ‘topham box’ See Shuttle mark.



See Shuttle mark. Also called Also called Suspender web. Suspender web An elastic or rigid woven narrow fabric used for the straps of trousers supports known as braces or suspenders. English method English method of spinning of spinning wool wool into worsted yarn. The into worsted yarn wool is thoroughly oiled before it is combed, which produces a smooth lustrous yarn used for the worsted suitings. This is distinct from the French system, which is dry spun. Also called Plait. Also called Plait. The product of braiding. Certain types of woven or knitted narrow fabrics are described as braids Wool grading Wool grading term more or term more or less less synonymous with lustre synonymous with wool. When compared with lustre wool. merino stock, it is low in quality and is used in



109



BRAID, CORED BRAID, DIAMOND



accessories accessories



BRAID, DOUBLE



accessories



BRAID, HOLLOW



accessories



BRAID, PLAIN BRAID, SOLID BRAID, TWILL BRAIDED FABRIC



accessories accessories accessories accessories



BRAIDED ROPE



accessories



BRAIDING



processes, operations



medium and low quality clothing, carpets, robes, blankets, and low priced uniform fabrics. See Cored braid. See Diamond braid



See Cored braid. See Diamond braid See Diamond See Diamond braid braid See Hollow See Hollow braid. braid. See Plain braid See Plain braid See Solid braid. See Solid braid. See Twill braid See Twill braid Cloth having a Cloth having a structure structure produced by interlacing produced by several ends of yarns in a interlacing manner such that the paths several ends of of the yarns are not parallel yarns to the fabric axis, i.e. yarns of any fibre are interlaced and diagonally plaited. Only narrow widths can be produced for cord, shoelaces, braids for coats and uniforms. See also Ribbon. A cylindrically A cylindrically produced produced rope rope made by intertwining, made by Maypole fashion, several to intertwining many strands according to a definite pattern. See also under Rope. The process of The process of interlacing interlacing three three or more threads in or more threads such a way that they cross in such a way one another in diagonal that they cross formation. Flat, tubular or one another in solid constructions may be diagonal formed in this way. Tubular formation. fabrics made by this process may be constructed with or without core, gut, filler, or stuffing threads, which when



110



BRASS BOBBIN



apparatus, equipage, tools



In lace machines, the two machined brass discs,



BRATTICE CLOTH



fabrics



Coarse cotton or jute fabric made with a plain weave and often impregnated with chemicals



BREAK



garments, madeups, assemblies



BREAK FACTOR



general



BREAK SPINNING



processes, operations defects fabrics



The point where the lapel starts to roll over on a coat See Lea countstrength product. See Open-end spinning. See Smash. See under Tyre textiles. See Extension at break. See Tensile strength at break. The length of a specimen (usually yarn) whose mass is equal to the breaking force. Also called Button breaker, Stud breaker



BREAK-OUT BREAKER FABRIC BREAKING EXTENSION BREAKING FORCE



general general



BREAKING LENGTH



general



BREAKING MACHINE



apparatus, equipage, tools



present are not interlaced in the fabric. In lace machines, the two machined brass discs, riveted at the hub to form a container for binding threads. Coarse cotton or jute fabric made with a plain weave and often impregnated with chemicals to increase gas and vapour absorption. Used in many industries mainly for screens, ventilators, etc., especially in mines, in which case it is often coated. Also called Absorption fabric The point where the lapel starts to roll over on a coat, usually at the top buttonhole See Lea count-strength product. See Open-end spinning. See Smash. See under Tyre textiles. See Extension at break. See Tensile strength at break. The length of a specimen (usually yarn) whose mass is equal to the breaking force. See Breaking force



Also called Button breaker, Stud breaker. A machine for continuous softening of stiff fabrics. The fabric is drawn under tension over the



111



BREAKING STRENGTH



general



BREAKING STRESS



general



BREATHE



processes, operations fibers, filaments, yarns fabrics



BREECH WOOL BRETON LACE



BRI-NYLON



fibers, filaments, yarns,fabrics



BRIBE BRICKSTITCH



fabrics seams, stitches



BRIDED RUG



garments, made-



edges of bars (knife-edge machine), or round rollers implanted with studs Also called Also called Tensile strength. Tensile strength The maximum tensile force recorded in extending a test piece to break-ing point. See also Tensile strength at break. The maximum The maximum stress stress developed developed in a specimen in a specimen stretched to rupture. The stretched to force is usually related to rupture. the area of the unstrained specimen. If the actual stress, defined in terms of the area of the strained specimen, is used, then its maximum value is called the ‘actual breaking stress’. See under Air- See under Air-cooled finish. cooled finish. See Britch wool See Britch wool A net ground with A net ground with heavy heavy embroidered designs; a embroidered feature of which is that the designs embroidery threads are very often coloured A British A British polyamide fibre polyamide fibre used mainly in the used mainly in manufacture of carpets, the manufacture lingerie, nightwear and of carpets, lightweight knitwear. lingerie, Surface can be brushed to nightwear and form a short pile. lightweight Hardwearing, washes easily knitwear. and dries quickly as it is not absorbent See Fents. See Fents. An embroidery An embroidery construction construction (flat (flat couching stitch) couching stitch) resembling a series of bricks A textile A textile floorcovering of



112



BRIDES LACE



ups, assemblies fabrics



BRIDGE TOP STOP



accessories



BRIDLE



garments, madeups, assemblies



BRIGHT



fibers, filaments, yarns, fabrics



BRIGHT LACE



fabrics



BRIGHT PICK



defects



BRIGHT YARN



defects



floorcovering braided cords sewn together Also called Bars Also called Bars lace. lace Certain lace designs in which, connecting bars (or legs) used to join the objects in lace, where there is no net ground. In zippers, a part In zippers, a part affixed affixed immediately above the immediately chain, holding the tops of above the chain, the two stringers together and preventing the slider from leaving the chain A narrow strip of A narrow strip of fabric fabric which is which is attached to the attached to the interlining along the roll of interlining along the lapel to hold and con-trol the roll of the it. lapel Textile materials, Textile materials, particularly particularly of of man-made fibres, whose man-made fibres natural lustre has not been significantly reduced. The term ‘clear’ is commonly used to denote the absence of deslustrant in synthetic fibres, whereas ‘bright’ may denote the presence of a very small amount of delustrant, insufficient to reduce the lustre of the fibre significantly. Openwork effects Openwork effects within a within a wale in wale in lace furnishings, lace furnishings obtained without distorting the warp threads. Fabric defect. Fabric defect. A tight pick usually found in a fabric containing continuous filament weft. Fabric defect Fabric defect. In fabrics made from man-made fibres, a warp or weft yarn of higher lustre than the adjacent yarns. The defect



113



BRIGHTON HONEYCOMB



fabrics



BRILLIANTINE



fabrics



BRIN



fibers, filaments, yarns



BRISE BISE



garments, madeups, assemblies



BRITCH WOOL



fibers, filaments, yarns



BROAD RIB FABRIC



fabrics



BROADCLOTH



fabrics



is caused by irregularity in processing of yarn, e.g. uneven distribution of delustrant, or by mixing yarns of different delustrant content, viz. dull, semi-dull, etc. Usually cotton fabric, with a typical honeycomb effect but on the right side only. See under Honey-comb.



Usually cotton fabric, with a typical honeycomb effect A dress cloth of A dress cloth of cotton warp cotton warp and and lustre worsted weft. lustre worsted Generally of plain weave, weft but jacquard designs are sometimes used. A single filament A single filament of silk of silk resulting from the degumming of the bave withdrawn from the cocoon. Lace curtaining Lace curtaining designed to be hung horizontally across the lower portion of a window, close to the frame; provision usually being made for the insertion of a curtain rod or wire Also called Also called Breech wool. Breech wool Wool from the lower thighs or hindquarters of the sheep; usually the coarsest type found in the fleece. It has considerable length but it is very irregular and of little value. This wool is used in cheap suitings and coatings, windbreakers, ski cloth, mackinac material, and car-pets. See under Rib See under Rib fabric, weftfabric, weftknitted knitted See Cotton See Cotton broadcloth, broadcloth, Woollen broadcloth.



114



BROADTAIL



fibers, filaments, yarns



BROCADE



fabrics



BROCADE VELVET



fabrics



BROCATELLE



fabrics



BROCHÉ



fabrics



Woollen broadcloth. A flat, lustrous A flat, lustrous fur, slightly fur, slightly wavy. wavy. The pelt of the young unborn Persian lamb. Figured fabric Figured fabric having having multicoloured or selfmulticoloured or coloured floral raised self-coloured designs, sometimes with floral raised metal threads added. The designs, figure is developed by sometimes with floating the warp threads, metal threads the weft threads, or both, added. and interlaced in a more or less irregular order. Made on Jacquard loom, the ground is formed of a weave of simple character, usually satin weave. Velvet with the Velvet with the pile sheared pile sheared at at different heights to form a different heights design, sometimes floral. to form a design, Plainer designs in dark sometimes floral. colours are used for men’s jackets. Usually very expensive A heavily figured A heavily figured furnishing furnishing or or upholstery cloth similar to upholstery cloth brocade. The pattern is similar to padded out into high relief brocade. by the warp threads in a satin weave against a closely woven background structure. Two or more wefts are used and, in the better qualities, there is an extra binder warp. Heavy yarns used are plain and mercerised cotton, viscose, and linen. Raised designs Raised designs on the on the surface of surface of fabric, often fabric, often introduced with the warp. A introduced with brocade fabric that is figured the warp. by additional threads



115



BRODERIE ANGLAISE



fabrics



BROKEN COLOUR PATTERN



defects



BROKEN CROW



fabrics



BROKEN ENDS BROKEN FACE



defects fabrics



BROKEN FILAMENTS



defects



BROKEN PATTERN



defects



BROKEN PICK



defects



introduced by means of swivel weaving Expensive, best Expensive, best quality quality fabrics. fabrics. Plain-weave cotton or polyester and cotton, in which shaped holes, e.g. leaves, and round holes are punched and then embroidered. Most fabrics are white or plain colours with self-colour embroidery, but a few are embroidered in a contrasting colour. Some fabrics have a border design, some a scalloped edge. Creases easily. Fabric defect in Fabric defect in woven woven fabrics. fabrics. Usually caused by a coloured yarn out of place on the frame. See Crowfoot See Crowfoot and Crow twill and Crow twill See End-out. See End-out. A term for A term for sateens made in sateens such a way that the weave effect is broken up. Yarn defect. Also Yarn defect. Also called called Strip Strip backs, Skin backs, backs, Skin Split filaments. Individual backs, Split filaments of a multi-filament filaments. yarn inadvertently ruptured, usually through mechanical damage. See also Filamentation. Fabric defect. Fabric defect. When the pattern in the fabric is not shown according to the planned design. Usually this breaking of design may result because of some malfunctioning of the machine, or mistake on the part of operator Fabric defect. Fabric defect. Also called



116 Also called Cut pick, Filling run out and Missing pick



BROKEN SELVEDGE



defects



BROKEN TWILL



fabrics



BROKEN WEAVE BRONZINESS



defects processes, operations



BRONZING



processes, operations



BROWN LACE



fabrics



BRUGES LACE



fabrics



Cut pick, Filling run out and Missing pick. A pick missing from a portion of the woven width. A discontinuity in the weft direction caused by a break or cut in the weft yarn. See Cut selvedge



See Cut selvedge Any twill weave Any twill weave in which the in which the move number is not move number is constant, with the result that not constant. the continuity of the twill line is broken. See Crack mark. See Crack mark. A metallic sheen A metallic sheen which can which can occur occur on a textile material or on a textile surface coating, usually material or when deeply coloured. In surface coating textile colouration the effect is usually caused by excessive concentration of colorant at the surface of the substrate. Sometimes this effect is produce deliberately with some very dark dyeings of indigo and sulphur black. It is an effect when intentional, but an undesirable defect if not intended. See under See under Oxidised oil Oxidised oil staining. staining. Lace in the Lace in the condition in condition in which it leaves the machine, which it leaves before any bleaching, the machine dyeing, or finishing treatments has been carried out Bar lace, named Bar lace, named after its after its original original place of place of manufacture, Bruges. Very manufacture, similar in appearance to Bruges. Honiton lace. Woven as a tape with a fine thread.



117



BRUISE



defects



Fabric defect. Also called Pressure mark



BRUSHED ACRYLIC



fabrics



BRUSHED ACRYLIC KNIT



fabrics



light to medium weight fabric with a brushed effect on one or both sides; often printed, usually woven Thick fabric, usually light and woolly; most often, acrylic fibre on a jersey backing with the right side brushed into a furry surface.



BRUSHED COTTON



fabrics



Plain or printed cotton cloth slightly brushed on one side to add warmth.



Coarse types are used for curtains, bedcovers and tablecloths. Fabric defect. Also called Pressure mark. An area that has been subjected to impact or pressure, which differs from the adjacent normal fabric. Fabrics of this description are usually light to medium weight fabric with a brushed effect on one or both sides; often printed, usually woven. Used for dresses, warm shirts, children’s clothes. Thick fabric, usually light and woolly; most often, acrylic fibre on a jersey backing with the right side brushed into a furry surface. Used for dressing gowns, sleeping bags, baby coats, zip-front casual jackets, toys, collars and cuffs. It is extremely inflammable and to be used with extra caution if employed in the manufacture of dresses for young children Plain or printed cotton cloth slightly brushed on one side to add warmth. This additional warmth makes it very suitable for children’s clothes, winter blouses and shirts. An inexpensive fabric; it creases easily but washes well. Does not wear as well as unbrushed cotton. The brushing process may be applied to the right or wrong side of the fabric. Extremely inflammable, so not used for nightdresses for



118



BRUSHED DENIM



fabrics



Denim weave cloth, usually all cotton, with a brushed finish on the right side.



BRUSHED NYLON



fabrics



Nylon jersey brushed on the right side to make it warm.



BRUSHED POLYESTER



fabrics



BRUSHED WOOL



fibers, filaments, yarns,fabrics



A fine soft cloth with a brushed surface Term used in the pulled-wool trade.



children or elderly people Denim weave cloth, usually all cotton, with a brushed finish on the right side. Has a softer appearance than conventional denim, but its use is usually confined to shirtwaist dresses, safaristyle jackets, trousers, jeans and casual shirts for men and children’s clothes. Hardwearing, but not as tough as denim. Usually found only in a limited range of colours such as denimblue, green, red, and brown. Nylon jersey brushed on the right side to make it warm. It is strong and hardwearing. Inclined to build up static more than most nylon due to the brushing. It is much warmer than plain nylon jersey but is not particularly an attractive fabric, so its use is confined to nightwear, and sheets. Does not crease. It washes easily and dries quickly due to the inability of nylon fibre to absorb moisture. White fabrics adopt a grey tone unless washed separately. A fine soft cloth with a brushed surface resembling velveteen in appearance. 1. IN FIBRES. Term used in the pulled-wool trade. Woollen fibres, taken from scrubbing or brushing, that is given to the stock in order to remove burrs, shives, grit dirt, and other foreign matter. This treatment is given to the wool when it is



119



BRUSHING



processes, operations



A finishing process in which a nap is raised on a fabric surface



BRUSSELS CARPET



garments, madeups, assemblies



A loop-pile carpet, woven on a Wilton loom, over unbladed wires.



BRUSSELS LACE



fabrics



Type of lace originally made with very fine linen threads.



BUBBLE



defects



BUCK



apparatus, equipage, tools



BUCKET SPINNING



processes, operations processes, operations fabrics



BUCKING BUCKINGHAMSHIRE LACE



on the pelt. 2. IN FABRIC. Knit or woven woollen fabric, which has been brushed, napped or teaseled. Find usage in some garments, scarves, sweaters, trimmings, etc. A finishing process in which a nap is raised on a fabric surface by passing it over one or more revolving circular brushes. Similar to napping, but usually a less vigorous process. A loop-pile carpet, woven on a Wilton loom, over unbladed wires. There is a wide range of carpeting under the name and the variety and colour patterns vary considerably. Type of lace originally made with very fine linen threads. The motifs were made as bobbin lace and then appliquéd onto a mesh ground. Now all fibres may be used and the motifs and the mesh are usually machine-made. Use preferred term Blister



Use preferred term Blister The lower, static, The lower, static, working working surface surface of the pressing of the pressing machine, which incorporates machine the shape or contour onto which the garment is laid. See Box spinning See Box spinning See Bowking



See Bowking



Very fine hand- Very fine hand-made lace made lace named after its place origin. named after its It is characterised by a



120 place origin.



diamond mesh ground, often narrow, and usually used only for trimming. A stiff fabric, generally linen or cotton, made by impregnating a plain-weave open-sett fabric with fillers and stiffeners. Alternatively fabric consisting of two stiffened fabrics bonded together, the fabrics being not necessarily of identical construction. Used for linings, millinery, waistbands and bookbinding. White or pinky-beige leather, which originally came from the elk and deer, but now also obtained from sheep. Strong but supple. Used for clothes, shoes, gloves, belts, etc.



BUCKRAM



fabrics



A stiff fabric, generally linen or cotton, made by impregnating a plain-weave open-sett fabric with fillers and stiffeners



BUCKSKIN



fabrics



BUCKSKIN FABRIC



fabrics



BUFFALO CLOTH



fabrics



BUGGY



garments, madeups, assemblies



BUILDER



³



White or pinkybeige leather, which originally came from the elk and deer, but now also obtained from sheep. A fabric similar in A fabric similar in appearance to, appearance to, but heavier but heavier than, than, a doeskin fabric. It is a doeskin fabric. made from fine merino wool, closely sett, heavily milled, dressed, and closely cut. Heavy fabric in Heavy fabric in twill weave, twill weave, finished with considerable finished with nap. This once popular considerable fabric, for winterwear, has nap. now been replaced to a great extent, by Mackinaw cloth A lining from the A lining from the neck down neck down across the back of an across the back otherwise unlined coat. of an otherwise unlined coat. a neutral or Term used to denote a mildly alkaline neutral or mildly alkaline ingredient that is ingredient that is added to a added to a synthetic detergent or an all-



121



BUILDER FABRIC



fabrics



BULGE RATIO BULK DENSITY



fibers, filaments, yarns general



BULK SAMPLE



general



BULK SHRINKAGE



fibers, filaments, yarns



BULKED CONTINUOUS FILAMENT BULKED YARN



fibers, filaments, yarns fibers, filaments, yarns



synthetic purpose soap to soften the detergent or an wash water and to increase all-purpose soap the cleaning power. A square-woven A square-woven heavy heavy cotton cotton duck made from very duck made from heavy ply yarns. Used very heavy ply formerly in the carcase of yarns. rubber-tread tyres. See Swell ratio. See Swell ratio. Apparent mass Apparent mass per unit per unit volume volume In sampling of In sampling of bulk material: bulk material (a) one or more portions which are taken from the material that does not consist of separately identifiable units or (b) one or more portions which are taken from the material which can be identified after sampling as separate or composed units. (Compare Discrete sample.) A measure of A measure of potential potential stretch stretch and power of stretch and power of yarns or a measure of bulk stretch yarns of textured-set yarns. See BCF. See BCF.



A yarn that has been treated mechanically, physically or chemically so as to have a noticeably greater voluminosity or bulk



A yarn that has been treated mechanically, physically or chemically so as to have a noticeably greater voluminosity or bulk; a yarn that has been prepared in such a way as to have a greater covering power, or apparent volume, than that of a conventional yarn of equal linear density and of the same basic material with normal twist. Some bulking processes introduce into the



122



BULKY YARN



fibers, filaments, yarns



yarns the additional property of stretch also. 1. IN STAPLE YARNS. The increased bulk may be obtained by the use of bicomponent fibres and/or by blending together, during yarn spinning, fibres of high and low potential shrinkage, e.g. high-bulk acrylic yarns. During subsequent hot and/or wet processing, the greater contraction of the high-shrinkage fibres cause the yarn to contract longitudinally and the lowshrinkage fibres to buckle thus increasing the bulkiness of the yarn. 2. IN CONTINUOUS FILAMENT YARNS. The increased bulk may be obtained by one of the texturing pro-cesses; ‘textured yarn’ is now the preferred term for yarns of this type. See Texturing and Textured yarn. See also Bulky yarn, Crimped yarn, High-bulk yarn, Loopy yarn, Nontorque yarn, Stretch yarn, Textured yarn, and Torque yarn. A generic name A generic name for (a) a yarn formed from inherently bulky fibres such as manmade fibres that are hollow along part or all of their length, or (b) a yarn formed from fibres that cannot be closely packed because of their cross-sectional shapes, fibre alignment, stiffness, resilience, or natural crimp. See also Bulked yarn.



123 BULLION CORD



BULLION FRINGE



BULLION STITCH



BUMP SEAM



BUMP-GREY



BUMPED TOP



BUMPING



BUMPS BUNCH



A highly twisted A highly twisted assembly of yarns which may be spirally assembly of yarns w covered with continuous filament yarns. Used in the manufacture of Bullion fringe. accessories A fringe, the weft A fringe, the weft of which of which consists consists of bullion cord or of bullion cord or twine which is inserted twine double to form a loop, the sides of which twist together to form the tails which become the skirt. See also Fringe. seams, stitches A decorative A decorative stitch made by stitch twisting a needle around a thread several times before inserting it into the cloth. Short bullion stitches are sometimes called Knots. defects A light coloured A light coloured width-wise width-wise printing defect caused by a printing defect stitching in the back grey. accessories, fabrics Also called Also called Bumps. Fabric Bumps intended to be used specifically as Back-grey. fibers, filaments, A package made A package made by pressyarns by press-packing packing layers of coiled layers of coiled sliver, usually achieved by sliver vacuum packing. defects,processes, See Planking 1. In weaving, a condition in operations which the beat-up is so severe that the cloth tension reduces to zero dur-ing part of the beating action; the condition produces high warp tension peaks which increases the end breakage rate. 2. See Planking fabrics,accessories See Bump-grey. See Bump-grey. defects Yarn defect. Also Yarn defect. Also called called Slug, Slub Slug, Slub. A defect characterised by a yarn accessories



124



BUNDLE



fabrics,accessories



A collection of sufficient pieces of cut fabric to make up several garments.



BUNDLE STITCH



seams, stitches



A series of parallel stitches



BUNTING



fabrics



Soft open-weave cotton or woollen fabric used for ceremonial flags



BURIED PILE YARN



garments, madeups, assemblies



In coated pile yarn floor covering,



BURIN



apparatus, equipage, tools



Also known as Graver.



BURL DYEING



processes,



A low



segment not over 6 mm (¼ in.) in length that shows an abrupt increase in diameter caused by more fibres matted in this particular place. 1. A collection of sufficient pieces of cut fabric to make up several garments. The size of the bundle is limited by weight and the number of pieces required for each garment. 2. A number of similar garment parts temporarily kept together for convenience of handling. See also Conventional bundle system, Progressive bundle system. A series of parallel stitches laid on a fabric and tied together at the centre. Soft open-weave cotton or woollen fabric used for ceremonial flags; it resembles scrim. Used for cheaper short-life flags. Resembles cheesecloth in texture. Usually dyed or printed in plain bright colours; colours may not be fixed. Unsuitable for clothing In coated pile yarn floor covering, that portion of the pile tuft elements which remains after the tuft legs have been removed by shearing. Also known as Graver. A cutting tool used by a hand engraver to incise lines on a copper cylinder or steel die used in printing 1. A low temperature



125 operations



temperature colouring process



BURL MARK



defects



Fabric defect, usually major, in woven fabrics.



BURLAP



fabrics



Heavy cloth made of jute or allied yarns with a coarse plain weave.



BURLING



processes, operations



Removal by clipping or picking



BURN-OUT PRINT



processes, operations



BURNING BEHAVIOUR



processes, operations



BURNISHING



processes, operations



BURNT-OUT FABRIC



fabrics



colouring process of cotton warps in union fabrics in which the wool is dyed, or, 2. A low temperature colouring process of cellulosic impurities in wool fabrics. Fabric defect, usually major, in woven fabrics. When a slub or extra piece of yarn is woven into the fabric, it is often removed by a burning tool. The result will usually leave an open place in the fabric. Heavy cloth made of jute or allied yarns with a coarse plain weave. Name originally meant a cleaning cloth, which implies hard wear. May shrink. Used for carpet backing, and for upholstery webbing. Also used for heavy curtains after dyeing or printing Removal by clipping or picking, the knots, burrs, and surplus hanging and loose threads from the surface of a fabric Process of printing a chemical on a fabric, so that the printed parts of the fabric burns out. All the changes that take place when materials or products are exposed to a specified ignition source.



Process of printing a chemical on a fabric, changes that take place when materials or products are exposed to a specified ignition source. A polishing of a A polishing of a fabric done fabric done by by rollers. rollers. Also called Also called Devoré fabric,



126



BURR EXTRACTING



processes, operations



BURRS



defects



BURRY WOOL



defects



BURSTING



defects



BURSTING STRENGTH



general



Devoré fabric, Devorant fabric, Etched-out Devorant fabric, fabric. Specially woven, Etched-out patterned, plain colour cloth fabric. to which acid is applied to remove or burn out some of the fibre. Mixed fibres are only used for weaving so that only certain parts of the design are burnt out and they become transparent while the rest remains opaque, creating very attractive fabrics. The fibres used vary but often are polyester and cotton. The fabrics are often sheer and lightweight and are used for blouses, dresses and curtains. extracting burrs A mechanical process (burr or vegetable crushers, beaters, etc.) or seeds found in chemical process (sulphuric wools. acid treatment) of extracting burrs or vegetable seeds found in wools. Wool 1. Minute seed particles of contaminated cotton, carried through into with vegetable the finished goods. impurities 2. Wool contaminated with vegetable impurities adhering to the fleece. Also called Burry wool. See under Burrs See under Burrs 2 2 In knitted fabric, In knitted fabric, a hole a hole caused by caused by fracture of a yarn fracture of a yarn resulting from high tension generated during knitting. See also Cutting. The force or The force or pressure pressure required to rupture a textile required to by distending it with a force, rupture a textile applied at right angles to the plane of the fabric, under specified conditions



127 BUST



apparatus, equipage, tools,



BUST GIRTH



garments, madeups, assemblies



BUST POINT TO BUST POINT



garments, madeups, assemblies



BUSY PRINT



fabrics



BUTCHER LINEN



fabrics



BUTCHER RAYON



fabrics



BUTT SEAM



seams, stitches



BUTTER MUSLIN



fabrics



A shaped form 1. A shaped form (male or (male or female) female) on which clothes on which clothes are worked on, inspected or are worked on displayed. 2. Garment-related term. See under Garment sizing system Garment-related Garment-related term. See term. under Garment sizing system. Garment-related Garment-related term. See term under Garment sizing system A print design A print design covering a covering a medium or large part of the medium or large fabric. It has many lines, no part of the fabric. large areas of a single colour, no geometric pattern. See under See under Butcher rayon. Butcher rayon. Used for overalls It used to be called ‘butcher and protective linen’; but it no longer coats because it contains linen yarns. Now it wears well, is not permissible to use the sheds dirt easily word rayon, so presumably in wear and butcher viscose, although washes well butcher cloth is probably more acceptable. Term butcher linen had been used to describe cotton cloth too, but this is no longer permissible. Whatever the fibre, the cloth is plain weave, stiff and heavy. Used for overalls and protective coats because it wears well, sheds dirt easily in wear and washes well A seam, which is A seam, which is sewn with sewn with the the two fabric edges two fabric edges abutting. abutting. or to the courses of circular knit fabric Cheap, open Cheap, open weave cotton



128



BUTTON



accessories



BUTTON BREAKER



apparatus, equipage, tools accessories



BUTTON PERFORMANCE CHARACTERISTICS



weave cotton cloth, very soft. Used in the cloth, very soft. production of dairy products, for straining jelly etc., but is also the perfect cloth with which to iron press. A knob, disc or A knob, disc or similar similar object object which when forced which when through a narrow opening or forced through a buttonhole, fastens one part narrow opening of a garment or other or buttonhole, flexible substrate to another. fastens one part Buttons may be attached a of a garment or garment also as a means of other flexible ornamentatioin. In buttons, substrate to that portion which will be another. exposed, after attaching to the substrate, is called ‘face’. There are basically two types of buttons: Sew-through flange button: These buttons have two or more holes in its flange for passage of a nee-dle and thread so that the button can be attached to a garment or other flexible substrate. Usually the main performance characteristic which is tested on plastic sew-through buttons is its impact resistance, i.e. the resistance to fracture under the sudden application of an external force See Breaking See Breaking machine machine the main The performance performance specification requirements characteristics for buttons are usually guided by the internationally approved ‘standard performance specifications’. Generally, the main performance characteristics which are tested on buttons



129



BUTTON STAND



garments, madeups, assemblies



BUTTONHOLE



garments, madeups, assemblies



BUTTONHOLE STAND



garments, madeups, assemblies



BUTTONING



defects



are: Resistance to washing liquor Resistance to drycleaning solvents Resistance to ironing Resistance to water Resistance to chlorine water Resistance to sea water Impact test The distance The distance from the from the finished finished edge of the garment edge of the to the centre of the button garment to the centre of the button The hole through The hole through which a which a button is button is passed to hold the passed garment in the correct position. The distance The distance from the from the finished finished edge of the garment edge of the to the eye of the buttonhole. garment to the eye of the buttonhole. Fabric defect Fabric defect. Also called Beading. Balls of fibre formed on warp yarns, during weaving.



C Word C. I. GENERIC NAME



Category ³



C.I. CONSTITUTION NUMBER C.I.GENERIC NAME



³ ³



Short description Description See Colour Index See Colour Index generic name. generic name. See Colour Index See Colour Index constitution number. constitution number. C.I. generic name is a The allocation of Colur Index generic names to commercial colorants is done by the classification name, Colour Index Editorial Board. C.I. generic which when allocated name is a classification name, which when to a commercial preparation allows that allocated to a commercial preparation allows that preparation to be uniquely identified preparation to be



130 Word



Category



Short description Description uniquely identified within any Colour Index Application class. within any Colour Index This enables the particular commercial Application class preparation to be classified along with other preparation, whose essential colorant results form a single chemical reaction, or a series of reactions. Products obtained by physical admixture of essential colorants are excluded. The publishers of Colour Index International cautions the users that a listing therein of a commercial preparation is no guarantee of its acceptability for manufacturer or use in those countries having such legislation. The dyestuffs are first classified according to usage. Further they are subdivided depending on the hue (colour) of the dye. Thus, dyestuffs are grouped as acid, basic, direct, disperse, vat dyes, etc., and in each group they are subdivided as yellow, orange, red, violet, blue, green, brown and black. Dyestuffs of each colour from each usage class are given consecutive numbers. When different dyestuff manufacturers produce a dyestuff of a particular colour in a given usage class and having the same known structure (hence a C.I. Constitution Number is assigned to the dyestuff), all these commercial dyes are given the same generic name. On the other hand, if, a num-ber of dyes of the same hue and tone (after dyeing on fibres) but the structure is not known in pub-lished literature, these are allocated five different C.I. generic names. These five different names are given to the five dyes of the respective manufacturers, even if the dye structure is the same. As long as the structure is not disclosed in the published literature, the dyestuffs have different C.I. generic names. When a research publication from a research organisation or from a university determines the structure of a series of commercial dyestuffs, by analytical and synthetic routes, and the results appear in a reputed journal, these are taken note of and they are assigned C.I. Constitution numbers depending on the chromophores present in them. This information is periodically published as Sup-plements to Colour Index International and at an appropriate time



131 Word



Category



Short description



CABANA CLOTH



fabrics



Brightly coloured fabric



CABINET DRY



processes, operations



A method of drying or deodorizing.



CABLE CORD



accessories



CABLE KNIT



seams, stitches



A cord consisting of three case cords that have been over-twisted and are then twisted together in the reverse direction. Also called Cable stitch. A stitch in knitting



CABLE LAID ROPE CABLE STITCH



accessories seams, stitches fibers, filaments, yarns



CABLE TWIST



CABLED YARN



CAD



CAKE



CALCIUM HYPOCHLORITE CALENDER



fibers, filaments, yarns general



fibers, filaments, yarns ³ apparatus, equipage,



See under Rope. See Cable knit



Description incorporated in the revised edi-tion of Colour Index International. Colorants listed under a C.I. generic name whose serial number contains a colon differ slightly from those listed under the parent CI generic name. This slight difference is usually chemical, but may be physical in the case of certain pigments. See also Colour Index International and C.I. constitution number. Brightly coloured fabric used for beach and resort wear A method of drying or deodorizing. Hot air is circulated around the immovable object being dried. Temperatures range upto 160ºF (71.2ºC). Drying time may be long. A cord consisting of three case cords that have been over-twisted and are then twisted together in the reverse direction. The smaller sizes are often referred to as lacing cords and the larger sizes, traditionally over 6 mm in diameter, as French crêpe cord Also called Cable stitch. A stitch in knitting that produces the appearance of a heavy cord in a raised rope stripe; often found in sweaters and sports hosiery. See under Rope. See Cable knit



The construction of cabled yarn, cord, or rope



The construction of cabled yarn, cord, or rope in which each successive twist is in the opposite direction to the preceding twist; an S/Z/S or Z/S/Z construction. A yarn formed, by A yarn formed, by twisting together two or twisting together two or more plied yarns. more plied yarns. Acronym for ‘Computer Acronym for ‘Computer aided design’. Term aided design’. used to describe the stages whereby a computer is employed to assist in the designing of a product. A package of A package of continuous filament yarn continuous filament produced during the box spinning of viscose yarn See under Chemic See under Chemic A machine used in calendering process.



A machine used in calendering process. See Calendering



132 Word CALENDER BONDED



CALENDERING



CALF GIRTH



CALF LEATHER



Category tools fabrics



Short description



Description



Thermally-bonded nonwoven fabric, in which calender rollers are used to apply heat and pressure to a fibre web or batt, thus causing bonding by the softening or melting of the heat-sensitive material. Embossed calender rollers are in common use for Point bonding A process by which the fabric is made compact, flat and glazed. Usually the fabric surface is not flat, particularly in ordinary quality plain weave fabrics, because of the round shape of the yarns and interlacings of warp and weft at right angles to each other. In such a fabric it is seen that whilst the fabric may be quite regular, it is not flat. In calendering, the fabric is passed between the rollers of a calender machine, in which heavy rollers rotate in contact under pressure. The yarns are squashed into a flattened elliptical shape; the intersections are made to close-up between the yarns. The fabric surface becomes flat and compact. The improved planeness of surface in turn improves the glaze of the fabric. The calender machines can have several rollers, some of which can be heated and varied in speed, so that in addition to pressure a polishing action can be exerted to increase lustre. Garment-related term. Garment-related term. See under Garment sizing system.



Thermally-bonded nonwoven fabric, in which calender rollers are used to apply heat and pressure to a fibre web or batt processes, A process by which the operations fabric is made compact, flat and glazed



garments, made-ups, assemblies fabrics



Very soft, pliable Very soft, pliable leather of top quality. Used leather of top quality. as the basis of good patent leather because it takes a high polish. Used for gloves and shoes CALIBRATION OF YARN processes, The measurement of The measurement of the diameter of yarn operations the diameter of yarn CALICO fabrics Generic term for cheap Generic term for cheap plain cotton fabric plain cotton fabric heavier than muslin, often printed. Fairly heavier than muslin, closely woven but varying in fineness and often printed weight depending on quality. One of the oldest basic cotton fabrics, it is named after Calicut in India where it was first produced. In the same grouping as percale, but coarser and poorer quality. CAM general Short for ‘Computer Short for ‘Computer aided manufacture’.



133 Word



CAM LOCK SLIDER



CAMBRÉ



CAMBRIAN TWEED



CAMBRIC



CAMEL CLOTH



CAMEL HAIR



Category



Short description aided manufacture’.



Description Term used to describe processes of making a product where the production machine is controlled by a computer. accessories In zippers, a slider that In zippers, a slider that incorporates a curled projection or projections on the pull that incorporates a curled extends through a window or windows to projection or effect a locking action by pressing against the projections interlocking elements when the cam lock slider is in the locked position fabrics A term for lightweight, A term for lightweight, sheer, open weave sheer, open weave linen fabric. linen fabric. fabrics Rough woollen fabric Rough woollen fabric made in the uplands of made in the uplands of Mid-Wales from the local hardy sheep. Plain Mid-Wales from the weave, hopsack, or herringbone weaves are local hardy sheep. the most usual and the yarns are either dyed with synthetic dyes for better fastness or, more attractively, left in their natural colours of white, grey and black (al-though the sheep in the field look brown), and mixed together. Used for hardwearing clothes such as men’s suits, sports jackets, Norfolk skirts and jackets. The coarser yarn is made into rugs. A closely woven, fine, firm, plain weave fabrics A closely woven, fine, firm, plain weave fabric, fabric, heavier than lawn, finished with size to give a slight shine on the right side. Mainly in heavier than lawn, plain colours. Usually cotton but can also be finished with size to give a slight shine on made in linen. The yarns are not set closely together and the finish is soft and smooth. the right side. Used for dresses, baby clothes, children’s clothes, nightwear, blouses, and handkerchiefs. fabrics Term now used to Term now used to describe any cameldescribe any camelcoloured coating fabric with a soft feel and coloured coating fabric slight pile. May be wool, wool and acrylic, or with a soft feel and other mixtures. They are cheap imitations of slight pile. real camel hair, but some are very good quality and expensive too. Sometimes made as a reversible cloth with cream colour on the other side. Fabric used for coatings, scarves, and rugs. See also Camel hair. fibers, The fibre comes from The fibre comes from the Bactrian (twofilaments, the Bactrian (twohumped) camel. These are two-coat animals yarns humped) camel. and shed lumps of hair all the year round. The fine undercoat hairs vary in length from 25 - 125 mm and they are very soft like wool and gives warmth without weight. The outer beard hairs are up to 375 mm and they are



134 Word



Category



Short description



CAMELEON



fabrics



A French term for changeable colour in fabric



CAMELOT



fabrics



CAMERA



fabrics



CAMLET



fabrics



CAMPBELL TWILL



fabrics



An imitation camlet fabric A French term for coarse, loosely woven linen fabric A fine, lustrous plainweave fabric made of silk, hair, or wool fibres Also called Mayo twill.



CAMPING TENTAGE



CANDLEWICK



garments, Any portable temporary made-ups, shelter or structure assemblies designed to protect persons from the elements fabrics Thick tufted pile fabric imitating an early handicraft when the wicks of candles really were used for decoration.



Description very coarse and tough. The fine hairs have its characteristic colours’ reddish fawn, light tan, to dark brown, and there is no clear division between them and the outer coat hairs because the coat contains intermediate hairs so that separation is difficult and the qualities of camel hair vary considerably in softness because of this. Used mainly for high quality overcoats, scarves and travelling rugs. The fine soft qualities are very expensive. Often mixed with sheep’s wool to reduce cost. A French term for changeable colour in fabric. Produced by shooting three picks of different colour through each shed in weaving. An imitation camlet fabric produced in cotton and wool. A French term for coarse, loosely woven linen fabric which is either unbleached or dyed yellow. A fine, lustrous plain-weave fabric made of silk, hair, or wool fibres and in a variety of qualities for suitings and furnishings. Also called Mayo twill. A weave used extensively in the finer woollen and worsted trade. Any portable temporary shelter or structure designed to protect persons from the elements, all or a portion of the covering of which is made of fabric or other pliable materials. Thick tufted pile fabric imitating an early handicraft when the wicks of candles really were used for decoration. The extra yarns, which are usually of 100 % cotton, coarse, folded yarns having outstanding capillary properties, are added to a loosely woven fabric of muslin construction and the thicker yarn is threaded through the backing in straight lines or patterns, leaving spaces between. The loops are then cut leaving thick tufts firmly wedged in the backing. A warm, cuddly, absorbent fabric, usually with cotton backing and tufting, though viscose may be added. Does not crease but robes can lose shape. Used for bedspreads, dressing



135 Word



Category



Short description



CANDY STRIPES



fabrics



CANNAGE



defects



Bands or stripes of colour woven-in or printed on fabrics. Local differences in light reflection caused by variations in curvature of warp crimp.



CANNELLE REPP



fabrics



CANNETILLE



fabrics



CANTALA



CANTON CRÊPE



CANTON FLANNEL



CANVAS



CANVAS INTERFACINGS



A silk repp fabric made with two warps.



Description gowns, and bathrobes Bands or stripes of colour woven-in or printed on fabrics. Colours simulate those of peppermint candy. Local differences in light reflection caused by variations in curvature of warp crimp. This occurs in plain weave fabrics made with a continuous filament warp and may arise if the warp is too stiffly sized or if the warp tension during weaving is too low. A silk repp fabric made with two warps. A single warp forms the ground weave while a two-fold yarn floats over eight picks to create a rib effect A warp-rib cotton fabric used for drapes and furnishings. It is woven with alternate ends under very low and very high tensions.



A warp-rib cotton fabric used for drapes and furnishings. It is woven with alternate ends under very low and very high tensions. fibers, A fibre obtained from A fibre obtained from the leaf of the cantala filaments, the leaf of the cantala plant agave cantala. yarns plant agave cantala. fabrics Crêpe fabric in which Crêpe fabric in which weft yarns produce a weft yarns produce a pebbly surface. Originally a silk from Canton, pebbly surface. but now often viscose or polyester. It is durable, due to the high twist yarn, and washes easily. Often in white or may be piece-dyed. Used for blouses, dresses Medium to heavy cotton cloth in twill weave fabrics Medium to heavy with a soft weft yarn and a soft flannel-type cotton cloth in twill nap on one or both sides. Soft and weave with a soft weft yarn and a soft flannel- absorbent; may be used unbleached or dyed. Washes well; very inflammable. Used for type nap on one or lining gardening gloves, driving gloves and both sides some baby clothes; sometimes used as a warm lining for other clothes. fabrics Plain fabric woven from Plain fabric woven from ply yarn which is ply yarn which is similar similar to duck cloth. Rugged, heavy, stiff to duck cloth. fabric, made of unbleached coarse cotton or linen yarn, often woven in stripes. Used for shoes, sails, awnings, rucksacks, tents, etc. Can also be open-weave, in various weights, and in this form it is used for embroidery. fabrics Made in various fibres Made in various fibres and weights, this is and weights, this is generally heavier than other types of generally heavier than interfacing. May be sew-in or iron-in types. Is



136 Word



Category



CANVAS MAKING



processes, operations



CAP SPINNING



processes, operations



CAPE LEATHER



fabrics



CAPE WOOLS



fibers, filaments, yarns



CAPROLACTAM



general



CARACUL CLOTH



fabrics



CARBINE NEEDLE



apparatus, equipage, tools fibers, filaments, yarns



CARBON FIBRE



Short description other types of interfacing.



Description durable and very malleable under a hot iron with moisture. Most types can be easily shaped to the body and give excellent structure to a tailored garment. Used in coats and jackets. See Sew-in woven interfacings and Iron-on canvas interfacings. The sewing together of The sewing together of all the pieces, which all the pieces, which form the interlining of a jacket or coat either form the interlining of a by hand or machine jacket or coa A spinning system in A spinning system in which the spindle which the spindle supports a stationary cap, the lower edge of supports a stationary which guides the yarn onto the revolving cap spinning package, which is traversed. Originally this type of leather came from Originally this type of sheep found around Cape of Good Hope, but leather came from now comes mainly from the Russian States. sheep found around Cape of Good Hope, Firm and hardwearing, and is usually given a but now comes mainly glacé or shiny finish. Used mainly for gloves. from the Russian States. General name for wool General name for wool obtained from areas obtained from areas in in and around South Africa. High quality and around South fleece having excellent working properties Africa. during manipulation. Used in heavier woollen materials. A polymer which is the A polymer which is the source of some source of some polyamide fibres. polyamide fibres. Also called Karakul Also called Karakul cloth. Heavy woollen cloth. fabric, woven to resemble fabrics made from Persian lamb’s wool. Used for women’s and children’s coats, capes, muffs, etc. See under Needle See under Needle



A manufactured fibre A manufactured fibre containing at least 90 % containing at least 90 of carbon obtained by controlled pyrolysis of % of carbon obtained appropriate fibres. . They are made by by controlled pyrolysis heating precursor filaments, usually of rayon of appropriate fibres. or acrylic to appropriate temperatures that convert the substance to primary pure carbon. Carbon fibres are black, smoothsurfaced, not flammable, of high strength, and very good stiffness-to-weight ratio. Special grades of carbon fibre are used for protective clothing fabrics.



137 Word CARBON-ARC LAMP



CARBONISED & NEUTRALISED WOOL



CARBONISING



Category apparatus, equipage, tools fibers, filaments, yarns



processes, operations



CARBOXYMETHYLATED fibers, COTTON filaments, yarns



CARD CLOTHING



apparatus, equipage, tools



CARD CUTTING



processes, operations



CARD SLIVER



fibers, filaments, yarns



CARD WASTE



general



CARD WEB



fibers, filaments, yarns fabrics



CARDED SILK



CARDED WOOL



CARDED YARN



Short description See Fade-o-Meter.



Description See Fade-o-Meter.



A term descriptive of A term descriptive of scoured wool processed to destroy cellulosic impurities by treating scoured wool processed to destroy with a mineral acid or an acid salt, drying and baking, crushing, and dusting out the cellulosic impurities embrittled cellulosic matter followed by neutralisation of the acidified wool. A chemical process by which cellulosic A chemical process by which cellulosic matter matter is removed from a mixture with animal fibres. The cellulose is degraded by treatment is removed from a with acid, and made into an easily friable mixture with animal condition and then removed. fibres Chemical treatments of Chemical treatments of cotton fibre, yarn or cotton fibre, yarn or fabric first with monochloroacetic acid, and fabric second with strong sodium hydroxide solution to provide a stiff and crease-resistant effect and to increase absorbency Material comprising a base structure and Material comprising a wires, pins, or spikes protruding from one base structure and face. Used on carding machines wires, pins, or spikes protruding from one face The process of punching holes in jacquard or The process of dobby cards according to specified designs. punching holes in jacquard or dobby cards A rope-like strand of A rope-like strand of fibres about 3/4 inch to 1 fibres inch (1.9 to 2.5 cm) in diameter; the form in which fibres emerge from the carding machine Short fluffy waste Short fluffy waste thrown out of the carding thrown out of the machine carding machine See under Web See under Web



A waste silk, usually A waste silk, usually obtained from imperfect obtained from imperfect cocoons, which is carded. Used in the cocoons manufacture of spun silk yarn. Scoured wool which has been processed fibers, Scoured wool which through a carding machine filaments, has been processed yarns through a carding machine fibers, Yarn made from fibres Yarn made from fibres that have been carded filaments, that have been carded but not combed in the manufacturing



138 Word CARDING



CARE INSTRUCTIONS



CARE LABEL, PERMANENT CARE LABELLING SYMBOLS



CARE LABELS



Category Short description Description yarns but not combed process. processes, The process of The process of untangling and partially operations untangling and partially straightening fibres, by passing them straightening fibres between two closely spaced surfaces moving at different speeds, at least one of which is clothed with sharp points, thus converting a tangled mass into a filmy web. garments, A series of directions A series of directions describing which care made-ups, describing which care practices should refurbish a product without adverse effects and warnings for those care assemblies practices should practices expected to have a harmful effect. refurbish a product without adverse effects garments, A care label that A care label that remains legible and made-ups, remains legible attached to a textile product throughout its assemblies useful life. A system of graphic symbols, intended for garments, A system of graphic use in the permanent marking of textile made-ups, symbols, intended for articles, providing information essential for assemblies use in the permanent their proper care. marking of textile Basic Symbols: articles, providing WASHING PROCESS: a washtub information essential CHLORINE-BASED BLEACHING for their proper care PROCESS:a triangle IRONING PROCESS:A hand iron shape DRY-CLEANING PROCESS:A circle TUMBLE DRYING: Tumble drying in a tumbler after a washing process:A square with a circle inscribed Additional Symbols: TREATMENT NOT PERMITTED:A St. Andrew’s cross, superimposed on any of the basic symbol, means that the treatment represented by that symbol shall not be used MILD TREATMENT:A bar, under the washtub or circle means that the treatment should be milder than that indicated by the same symbol without a bar. VERY MILD TREATMENT:A broken bar, under the washtub describes a very mild washing process at 40° C. WASHING: The washtub symbolises the domestic washing treatment (by hand or machine). It is used to convey information regarding the maximum washing temperature and the maximum washing process severity garments, A label that gives A label that gives directions for refurbishing a made-ups, directions for product assemblies refurbishing a product



139 Word CARE PROCEDURE



CAREER APPAREL



CARLONIZED



CAROA



CARPET



CARPET PILE BRUSH



CARPET SQUARE



CARPET TILE



CARPET WOOL



CARRIAGE LACE



CARRICKMACROSS



CARRIER



Category Short description Description garments, A process by which A process by which products or specimens made-ups, products or specimens may be treated for soil removal and aesthetic assemblies may be treated for soil improvement. removal Garments, the styling and performance of garments, Garments, the styling which are designed for various end uses so made-ups, and performance of as to be suitable for on-the-job wear in a assemblies which are designed for variety of businesses and professions. See various end uses also Dress career apparel, Vocational career apparel processes, A process of A process of impregnating yarns with a operations impregnating yarns with protective shield that becomes an integral a protective shield that part of the fabric. This process makes the becomes an integral fabric washable, waterproof, stain resistant, part of the fabric. abrasion resistant, and anti-static. The treated fabrics are used for wall coverings, office furnishings, etc. fibers, Also called Craua, Also called Craua, Croa, Coroa. A fibre from filaments, Croa, Coroa the leaf of the plant neoglazovia variegata yarns garments, A floor covering A floor covering having a textile use-surface made-ups, formed from yarns or fibres projecting from a assemblies backing. apparatus, A hand operated brush A hand operated brush having long, semiequipage, rigid bristles intended specifically for erecting tools the pile of small areas of carpet garments, A carpet rectangular A carpet rectangular form, with or without a made-ups, form, border, at least 1.83 m at the shortest assemblies dimension and normally loosely laid. garments, A textile floor covering A textile floor covering of predetermined made-ups, shape, with backcoating of bitumen, glass assemblies fibre, or PVC. It is used in a modular mode. fibers, See under Wool See under Wool filaments, yarns fabrics Also called Coach lace Also called Coach lace. A woven narrow fabric on the face of which is an uncut pile design; generally incorporating one weft, but two or three wefts are sometimes used for further ornamental effects. Used for embellishment of the upholstery of carriages and other vehicles. fabrics Old Irish traditional type Old Irish traditional type of lace made with of lace heavy yarns in an almost crochet type of work, characterised by many loops. ³ A plasticising agent A plasticising agent that aids the penetration of the dye onto or into non-water-absorbing



140 Word



Category



Short description



CARRIER YARN



fibers, filaments, yarns



A yarn that is used to support another yarn



CARROTI



³



CARROTING



CARVED PILE



CASABLANCAS



CASE



CASE CORD



CASEIN FIBRE



CASEMENT CLOTH



CASHA



Description man-made fibres A yarn that is used to support another yarn in weaving, knitting, and sometimes lace making, and is then dissolved out of the product in finishing The active reagent used for carroting



The active reagent used for carroting processes, The modification of the The modification of the tips of rabbit-fur fibre operations tips of rabbit-fur fibre by chemical treatment to improve their felting capacity. garments, See under Pile, in See under Pile, in carpet made-ups, carpet assemblies processes, The first long draft The first long draft spinning system, which operations spinning system employs two aprons for guiding the roving sliver through the process of drafting and attenuation apparatus, A container holding a A container holding a number of textile equipage, number of textile packages; a shipping unit, usually carton, tools packages box, bale, or other. fibers, A soft and pliable cord A soft and pliable cord consisting of two or filaments, more components twisted together, each yarns component being made of a core which is helically covered at an acute angle by multiple ends of continuous filament yarns. fibers, Casein is obtained by Casein is obtained by the acid treatment of filaments, the acid treatment of skimmed milk; casein fibres can be made yarns skimmed milk from this. The filaments have a natural white colour and are smooth-surfaced, with faint striations. Casein and wool blends are used for hand- and machine-knitting yarns, the whiteness of casein lending itself to the production of pastel shades. fabrics This fabric is for This fabric is for casements or curtains. casements or curtains. Usually cotton, it is plain-weave fabric in white or cream, with the weft often predominating on the surface. Soft and drapes well. The term is now generally used to cover a wide variety of simple weave plain curtaining, made from practically any fibre and in any colour, and in various weights. Not particularly hardwearing so it is not used for other furnishings. fabrics Woven from wool with Woven from wool with some Cashmere some Cashmere goat’s goat’s wool. Similar to flannel in appearance, wool. but the Cashmere adds softness. Used for overcoats for adults and children.



141 Word CASHGORA



CASHMERE



CASING



CASSIMER



CAST BLOCK



CASTING OFF



CASTING OUT



CASTLE



CAT EYE



Category fibers, filaments, yarns



Short description Description Hair from the downy Hair from the downy undercoat of the undercoat of the cashgora (cross breed of angora and cashgora (cross breed cashmere) goat. Hair is fine and has low to of angora and medium lustre cashmere) goat. fibers, The undercoat hair of The undercoat hair of the cashmere goat filaments, the cashmere goat (capra hircus laniger) in northern part of India yarns, (capra hircus laniger) in and other parts of Asia. Cashmere is fabrics northern part of India beautifully soft, silky and lustrous with a and other parts of Asia. smooth slightly slippery luxurious handle and it is used in high quality knitwear, dressgoods, coatings and suitings. Fabrics of 100 % cashmere are really very expensive, so that mixtures with wool are quite common. The addition of wool detracts from the softness according to amount, but improves durability. The characteristic pale brown colour of some types of cashmere has led to imitation of cashmere, by dyeing soft botany wool to this colour, but cannot be labeled as such. garments, See under Tyre textiles 1. In a garment, a fabric tunnel through which made-ups, elastic, cord, tape ribbon, etc., can be assemblies, threaded. general 2. See under Tyre textiles fabrics A closely woven 2/2 A closely woven 2/2 twill fabric with worsted twill fabric warp and woollen weft, and having a closely cut, smooth face apparatus, Print-blocks made of Print-blocks made of ’type metal’. Many casts equipage, ’type metal’ of small repeats are made and riveted on to a tools hardwood base to form a large block. Sometimes called ‘stereo block’. See also Stereo. processes, Creation of a sealed Creation of a sealed edge to the last course operations edge to the last course of a piece of knitting, by chaining a separate of a piece of knitting thread through each of the loops of the last course. This was normally regarded as a hand technique, but now automatic casting off has been achieved on many models of flat knitting machines. processes, A term used in weaving A term used in weaving to indicate that some operations healds of a jacquard machine, or some healds on certain heald shafts, are not used. fibers, A white, raw silk of A white, raw silk of Chinese origin. filaments, Chinese origin. yarns defects See under Pinhole See under Pinhole



142 Word CATALYST IN DEFERRED CURE



Category ³



CATCH



garments, made-ups, assemblies



CATCH CORD



accessories



CATCH-STITCH CATENARY LENGTH



seams, stitches general



CATERPILLAR



defects



CATIONIC DYES



³



CAULIFLOWER RUCHE accessories CAUSTIC SODA ³ CAUSTIC SODA CRÊPE processes, operations



CAUSTICIZING



processes, operations



CAV



general



Short description A chemical added to the padding solution



Description A chemical added to the padding solution that helps to achieve cross-linking. See Deferred cure. In garments, an In garments, an underlap of material underlap of material providing a backing to an opening to take buttons or a zip tape for fastening, e.g. flycatch, button-catch. A heavy thread or wire A heavy thread or wire temporarily woven temporarily woven near near the selvedge of the fabric. It may catch the selvedge of the extra filling yarns, which should not weave in fabric. the selvedge and later cut-off, or it sometimes helps to form the selvedge, i.e. the picot edge, loop A cross-stitch made A cross-stitch made backwards; used if the backwards cloth is too bulky to be turned down twice. The difference between the length of the The difference between shortest and the longest component of a plied the length of the yarn or cabled cord after twisting shortest and the longest component of a plied yarn A term for a defect in A term for a defect in yarn caused by a break yarn caused by a break in part of the yarn. The broken part becomes in part of the yarn. pushed back in working and curls around the unbroken part in the shape of a caterpillar. The dyes those dissociate in an acidified, The dyes those aqueous solution to give a positively charged dissociate in an coloured ion. Usually used on acrylic and acidified, aqueous some polyester fibres. See also Basic dyes solution See under Ruche. See under Ruche. A term commonly used A term commonly used for sodium hydroxide for sodium hydroxide A crêpe effect produced by the shrinking A crêpe effect action of caustic soda applied to cotton produced by the goods. A resist may be applied first to the shrinking action of caustic soda applied to parts, which are to be left untreated, or the caustic soda may be printed directly on the cotton goods cloth. The treated areas shrink, causing the untreated areas to pucker or crinkle. The pattern is often in the form of stripes. It may also be a design of dots, all-over effects, etc. Brief treatment of Brief treatment of celllulosic fabrics with celllulosic fabrics with caustic soda solution at room temperature caustic soda solution without tension to improve the colour yield in printing and dyeing, particularly with reactive dyes. See Critical application See Critical application value value



143 Word CAVALRY TWILL



Category fabrics



Short description Rugged, very strong, firmly woven, smooth surfaced twill fabric



CE



general



See Recoverable elongation. See under Cotton trees.



CEIBA



CELAFIBRE



CELLOPHANE



CELLULAR FABRIC



CELLULASE CELLULOSE



Description Rugged, very strong, firmly woven, smooth surfaced twill fabric with a clean, steep, prominent double twill effect produced by a special twill weave and finely set warp. Traditionally, a fine wool medium-weight worsted fabric, or combination of worsted warp and woollen weft for hardwearing clothes such as riding breeches. Also used for men’s trousers, raincoats and other clothing purposes. Now also made from cotton or viscose for sportswear, because the traditional form of this fabric is really expensive; but whatever the fibre, the cloth is tough and hardwearing. A firm warp-faced fabric in which the weave gives steep twill lines separated by pronounced grooves formed by the weft. See Recoverable elongation.



fibers, See under Cotton trees. filaments, yarns fibers, Cellulose acetate fibre Cellulose acetate fibre made in cut staple filaments, made in cut staple form form. Used for blending with other fibres to yarns make medium-weight fabrics, blankets, etc. When mixed with other fibres in woven fabrics, it may have a reduced tendency to creasing. fibers, A genetic term for A genetic term for regenerated cellulose film filaments, regenerated cellulose or sheets produced by the viscose process. yarns film or sheets produced The film is thin, smooth, transparent, and by the viscose process lustrous and may dyed in many colours. It is flexible, insulative, odour proof, greaseproof and moisture proof. It is used primarily in packaging, but may be combined with textile materials in the form of slit cellulose film. fabrics A fabric constructed so A fabric constructed so as to have a close as to have a close and and orderly distribution of hollows or holes. In woven fabric, this can be achieved by orderly distribution of honeycomb weave, leno weave, or perforated hollows or holes. weave. ³ See under Enzymes See under Enzymes ³ The basic substance The basic substance which is contained in all vegetable fibres and certain man-made which is contained in all vegetable fibres and fibres. It is a carbohydrate and constitutes the major part of all plant life. It is found in cotton, certain man-made linen, jute, hemp, all of bast, leaf, and stem fibres.



144 Word



CELLULOSE ACETATE



CELLULOSE DIACETATE



CELLULOSE ETHERS



CELLULOSE FIBRES



Category



Short description



Description fibres and in viscose and cuprammonium rayon. In the form of cellulose acetate it comprises acetate fibre. In rayon it is found in regenerated form. 1. YARN. Man-made fibre produced from a Man-made fibre fibers, chemical derivative of cellulose; cellulose produced from a filaments, acetate. It is fundamentally different in its chemical derivative of yarns, chemical structure from the rayons and cellulose; cellulose fabrics natural fibres, except that both have cellulose acetate as common. It is thermoplastic, which actually melts at 230° C, but may soften and can be damaged even at slightly lower temperatures. Relatively low moisture absorption and dry rapidly. It is acknowledged to be a better artificial silk than viscose, at the same time being less expensive. 2. FABRIC. Fabric is similar in superficial appearance to viscose fabric but it not quite as strong, nor quite as resistant to abrasion. It has more resilience and has a pleasing more silk like handle. Needs no chemical crease-resistance. Drapes beautifully. It is not readily flammable; exposed to a naked flame it melts and drips, as it burns Its chemical properties differ from viscose in that it is sensitive to certain solvents, notably acetone which dissolves it very quickly. Dye affinity is completely dif-ferent from that of viscose and cotton; disperse dyes have to be used. It is not suitable for clothing and other uses which demand quick absorbency. However, used for women’s dresswear, socks, ties, pyjamas, bathing suits, rainwear and umbrellas. Does not conduct heat readily, garments are cool in summer and warm in winter. general Term is sometimes Term is sometimes used loosely to describe used loosely to acetone-soluble cellulose acetate. (Strictly describe acetonespeaking, it is an ester of cellulose and acetic soluble cellulose acid containing 48.8 % by mass of combined acetate. acetic acid. This, however, is not a commercial textile product). ³ A finish used on yarn A finish used on yarn and fabric, as substitute and fabric, as substitute for starch. General name for methylcellulose, for starch carboxy methylcellulose and similar compounds fibers, Fibres composed of Fibres composed of cellulose either from



145 Word



Category Short description Description filaments, cellulose natural sources or regenerated by man-made yarns operations, e.g. cotton, flax, rayon, jute. CELLULOSE fibers, In most respects similar In most respects similar to cellulose acetate TRIACETATE filaments, to cellulose acetate but it has two important differences, which yarns justify its use. Firstly, although it is thermoplastic it is more resistant to heat than acetate, melting at approximately 300° C. Secondly it can be subjected to heat-setting like a synthetic fibre by sub-jecting it to a heat of about 195° C. When it has been heat-set its absorbency is very low and it exhibits dripdry properties like synthetic fibres. It is used mainly for pleated fabrics. CELTIC TWILL fabrics A term used sometimes A term used sometimes for twilled basket for twilled basket weave weave CENTRE BACK WAIST garments, Garment-related term. Garment-related term. See under Garment LENGTH made-ups, sizing system assemblies CENTRE FRONT WAIST garments, Garment-related term. Garment-related term. See under Garment LENGTH made-ups, sizing system assemblies Lace. A leavers-lace construction in which CENTRE GIMP fabrics Lace. A leavers-lace construction in which the filling threads, called gimps, lie between the front and back warp threads. The ground the filling threads, net is made by the interaction of two warp called gimps, lie between the front and threads with each bobbin thread. The objects are filled by traversing gimp threads, back warp threads according to the requirements of the patttern. Thick threads may be used for outlining the objects CENTRE LOOP defects See Kink-in. See Kink-in. CENTRE SELVEDGE fabrics Double width cloth, Double width cloth, woven on single width woven on single width looms, with a split selvedge in the centre of looms, with a split the cloth. The split is obtained by leaving two selvedge in the centre or more threads in the centre of the selvedge of the cloth and cutting the cloth where the threads are missing CENTRE SLOT accessories A method of zipper A method of zipper application, in which the APPLICATION application zipper is concealed beneath two fabric flaps and there are two visible rows of stitching on the right side of the garment an equal distance from the seamline on either side. Centre slot applications are commonly used for centre back openings in skirts and dresses CENTRE-CLOSED processes, See under Closed See under Closed shedding.



146 Word SHEDDING CENTRE-STITCHING DOUBLE CLOTH CENTRIFUGAL HYDROEXTRACTION



processes, operations



CENTRIFUGAL SPINNING



processes, operations



CENTRING MARK CERAMIC FIBRES



defects fibers, filaments, yarns processes, operations



CERIFIL



CERVICALE TO BUST POINT



Category Short description operations shedding. fabrics See under Double cloth Removal of water by centrifugal force from wet textiles A method of spinning



See Clip mark. See Silica fibres



Description See under Double cloth Removal of water by centrifugal force from wet textiles contained in a perforated rotor or basket. 1. A method of spinning in which the yarn passes down a central guide tube and is then collected by centrifugal force on the inner surface of a rotating cylinder container. See also Box spinning. 2. In man-made fibre production, a method of fibre formation in which a molten or dissolved poly-mer is thrown centrifugally in fibre form from the edge of a rapidly rotating surface See Clip mark. See Silica fibres



Trade name of a spinning system



Trade name of a spinning system, in which the yarn is wound onto the spinning tube via a ‘winder’. The winder, which is rotated by the yarn, replaces the ring and traveller, which are used in ring spinning and confines the yarn balloon. Garment-related term Garment-related term. See under Garment sizing system



garments, made-ups, assemblies CERVICALE TO WRIST garments, Garment-related term. Garment-related term. See under Garment made-ups, sizing system assemblies CEYLON fabrics A coloured woven A coloured woven fabric for blouses and fabric for blouses and shirtings made from a cotton warp and shirtings cotton-wool weft. CEYLONETTE fabrics An imitation of Ceylon An imitation of Ceylon fabric made entirely fabric from cotton CHAFE MARK defects See Abrasion mark. See Abrasion mark. CHAFER FABRIC fabrics See under Tyre textiles. See under Tyre textiles. CHAFF defects A component of trash in A component of trash in cotton in the form of cotton a heterogeneous assortment of vegetable fragments, most of them being small pieces of leaf, leaf bract and stalk. 1. A very rarely used alternative name for the CHAIN fabrics, In zippers, the warp. accessories assemblage formed by 2. In zippers, the assemblage formed by interlocking several interlocking several elements of two stringers. elements of two



147 Word



Category



CHAIN DYEING



processes, operations



CHAIN FORK



apparatus, equipage, tools general



CHAIN SAMPLING



CHAIN STITCH



CHAIN THICKNESS



CHAIN TWILL CHAIN TWIST



CHAIN WARP



CHAIN WARPING CHAIN WIDTH



CHAIN-STRETCHING



CHAINETTE



CHAINLESS MERCERZING CHAIR WEB



seams, stitches



Short description stringers. Yarn or fabric is tied end-to-end, into an endless rope form See Lucet.



In acceptance sampling, a sampling plan



Description Yarn or fabric is tied end-to-end, into an endless rope form. The rope is put onto a reel and passed through the dye bath in a continuous manner See Lucet.



In acceptance sampling, a sampling plan for which the decision to accept or reject a lot is based in part on the results of inspection of the lot and in part on the results of inspection of the immediately preceding lots Stitches formed by interlooping one or more threads. See Single thread chain stitch and Two-thread chain stitch. In zippers, the measurement from front to back of the chain



Stitches formed by interlooping one or more threads. accessories In zippers, the measurement from front to back of the chain fabrics An ordinary 3/3 twill. An ordinary 3/3 twill. fibers, A yarn first made two- A yarn first made two-ply, a third yarn is then filaments, ply, a third yarn is then twisted around the two-ply yarn in a reverse yarns twisted around twist. fabrics Warp threads in Warp threads in floorcoverings, usually floorcoverings woven in pairs, alternating over and under the shots, which are then bound enclosing the stuffer yarns and the tuffs or loops forming the pile. processes, See under Warping See under Warping operations In zippers, the measurement between the accessories In zippers, the shoulders of the interlocked elements or measurement between between the outermost edges of the bead if the shoulders of the the bead extends beyond the elements. interlocked elements processes, A method, which is A method, which is used to prevent shrinking operations used to prevent of cloth in width and length after caustic shrinking of cloth impregna-tion. accessories A tubular cord A tubular cord produced on a circular knitting produced on a circular machine having no more than 20 needles knitting machine processes, See under See under Mercerization. operations Mercerization. accessories May also called May also called upholstery web. A woven upholstery web. narrow fabric, for supporting the seat of chairs, couches, etc. Made from yarns of jute,



148 Word



Category



Short description



CHALK FINISH



processes, operations



A finish applied to lingerie silks and rayons to produce dullness and add weight; not permanent.



CHALLIE CHALLIS



fabrics fabrics



See Challis. Also called Challie.



CHAMBRAY



fabrics



Plain weave, durable, lightweight cotton fabric having a coloured warp and white weft, producing a motttled look



CHAMELEON



fabrics



A fabric with a variable multicolour effect



CHAMOIS



fabrics



Originally the skin of the chamois, the small mountain goat, but now also from deer, sheep and goats



CHANGE-IN FILLING CHANGEABLE EFFECT



defects fabrics



See Mixed filling. Also called Changeant Effect, Glacé effect, Iridescent effect, Shot effect. An iridescent effect in fabric.



Description flax, hemp, paper, and cotton. See also Upholstery webbing. A finish applied to lingerie silks and rayons to produce dullness and add weight; not permanent. The process, which involves depositing dulling materials on the surface of the fabric, not to be confused with dull rayon, acetate and man-made fibres, made dull See Challis. Also called Challie. Soft, lightweight dressfabric in slightly open plain weave, generally wool, using single worsted spun yarns in warp and weft. Cotton challis has a slight nap to achieve a soft finish. Gathers well and takes unpressed pleats. May be plain or printed; need lining in paler colours. It is also used as a base for printing. Crushes in wear, but sheds creases overnight. Plain weave, durable, lightweight cotton fabric having a coloured warp and white weft, producing a motttled look. It is also made in striped, checked, or figured patterns as well as plain. The finer quality chambrays can have a silk weft, whereas synthetic yarns or cotton blends may be used in cheaper fabrics. Used for children’s clothes, shirts, sportwear and pyjamas A fabric with a variable multicolour effect achieved by using warp yarns of one colour and two weft yarns of two different colours in each shed. Originally the skin of the chamois, the small mountain goat, but now also from deer, sheep and goats. The skins are dressed with oil and given a suede finish on both sides. Very soft and limp. Used for many types of clothing. See Mixed filling. Also called Changeant Effect, Glacé effect, Iridescent effect, Shot effect. An iridescent effect in fabric. It may be achieved by employing warp and weft yarns dyed different colours. The effect may also be achieved in piece-dyed fabrics by employing two different natural fibres in warp and weft; two different man-made fibres in warp and weft; a natural and a man-made fibre yarn in warp and weft.



149 Word



Category



CHANGEANT EFFECT CHANNEL



fabrics garments, made-ups, assemblies



CHANTILLY LACE



fabrics



CHARACTER



fibers, filaments, yarns processes, operations



CHARGED SYSTEM



CHARMANTE SATIN



fabrics



CHARMELAINE



fabrics



CHARMEUSE



fabrics



CHARRING



processes, operations



CHARVET



fabrics



Short description



Description The various yarns, which have different affinities for dyes, cause the finished cloth to reflect different colours at different angles. See Changeable effect See Changeable effect A narrow passage A narrow passage formed between plies of formed between plies fabric in a garment or by attachment of an of fabric in a garment additional ply of material, usually to house a draw cord Originally a silk bobbin Originally a silk bobbin lace with a very fine lace with a very fine spidery ground. Well-spaced isolated spidery ground. decorative motifs are applied in a heavier thread and outlined. It is now made by machine in nylon, viscose and mercerised cotton. Often used for bridal veils One of the principal One of the principal factors in classing raw factors in classing raw cotton. See Cotton classing. cotton A method of dry A method of dry cleaning in which an oilcleaning soluble reagent such as petroleum sulphonate is added to the solvent so that a significant amount of water can be added to obtain a substantially clear dispersion of water in the solvent. In a high charged system the concentration of added reagent, a so-called detergent, is 4%, while in a low charged system the concentration ranges from 3/4% to 2%. A double-wefted fabric A double-wefted fabric, the face being 1/2 twill and the back a weft sateen developed from thick, low-twist weft. A 1x2 twill dress fabric A 1x2 twill dress fabric made from botany made from botany wool wool warp and weft that has a twill repp effect by virtue of a high sett two-fold fine warp and a low-sett thick hard-twisted weft Silk, cotton or viscose Silk, cotton or viscose satin-weave fabric with satin-weave fabric with a dull back and semi-lustrous right side; may sometimes be a mixture of fibres. Not a dull back and semihardwearing. Will crease. Used for lingerie, lustrous right side nightwear, and soft evening dresses. Term ‘charmeuse-type’ is often used to describe other soft silky fabrics. The formation of carbonaceous residue as The formation of the result of pyrolysis or incomplete carbonaceous residue combustion. as the result of pyrolysis Soft fabric of silk or Soft fabric of silk or acetate in a diagonal rib acetate in a diagonal weave, often with crosswise stripes of



150 Word



Category



CHASING



processes, operations



CHATTER



defects



CHECK SPIKES



apparatus, equipage, tools



CHECK SPRING



apparatus, equipage, tools



CHECKERBOARD WEAVE EFFECTS



fabrics



CHECKS



fabrics



Short description Description rib weave, often with alternate dull and satin finish. Width usually crosswise stripes of 90 cm or less. Used for making ties; the alternate dull and satin fabric is cut on the bias so that the tie knots finish and drapes softly. A join is often necessary to produce sufficient width. A finishing process which imparts a thready A finishing process which imparts a thready appearance and a hard lustre to the surface of the fabric, usually cotton or linen. The appearance and a hard lustre to the surface of operation is performed on a calendar with five or more rollers, and the cloth is passed the fabric, usually through one or more pairs of rollers through cotton or linen. which it has already passed, so that two layers or more run through the machine at the same time, face to face. The threads on the surfaces of the fabric are pressed against each other, and the tendency is to round, rather than flatten the threads, and close the larger spaces between them, giving the cloth a firm a hand and even appearance. A rounded yarn will not pack as well as an elliptical one unless shrinkage is allowed. The process is an imitation of a beetled finish. A printing defect A printing defect identified by light and dark streaks running across the cloth. Free standing steel Free standing steel spikes, 15-20 cm high, spikes which are placed at certain points on a lay, usually the corners of check patterns, in order to ensure that the checks match each other when cut. In sewing machine, a In sewing machine, a spring with a loop at spring with a loop at one end, through which the thread passes. It one end, through which takes up the slack in the needle thread during the thread passes stitch forming and assists the take up in setting the stitch. Structural fabric Structural fabric designs created in braided designs twill, high and low lustre satin, checked broken twill, twill rib, fancy figured pointed twill, double twill effect, etc. The simple form of check fabric is with bold The simple form of stripe colourings in both warp and weft check fabric is with bold stripe colourings in both producing a rectangular block pattern as the colours combine with each other to produce warp and weft producing a rectangular solid blocks of colours combined with blocks of mixed colour, e.g. the very wide range of block pattern tartan designs. Woven checks can also be produced as a combination of weave and colour. The traditional checks can be further developed to obtain more variety by using



151 Word



Category



Short description



Description coloured twist yarns instead of solid colours, by the use of different colour orders and different weaves. Some of the more common traditional checks are: Houndstooth check: Also called Dogstooth check. One of the most common examples of woven check fabrics produced as a combination of weave and colour. It has a pattern of four dark, four light yarns in both warp and weft on a 2/2 twill weave. The combi-nation of interlacings and colour produces the well-known shape of check. Gunclub check: A variation of the houndstooth check. In this two different dark colours alternate in 4 and 4 order with a light ground colour in both warp and weft. The resultant check has a combination effect as shown above, again using a 2/2 twill. Shepherd’s check: In the check as shown below the effect is obtained by increasing the colour se-quence to five or more yarns (in the diagram, six have been used) and a 2/2 twill weave. This causes the hounds-tooth shape to be lost and produces square blocks where the colours intersect The term is sometimes used also to describe the ordinary ‘dog-tooth check’. The shepherd check can be produced also on a plain weave. Guard’s check: When a 2 and 2 colours order is used in warp and weft on 2/2 twill a vertical line effect is produced. The guard’s check is of this type shown below Large windowpane panels of colour can break this up, and by slightly changing the relationship of the weave and the colourorder, alternate vertical and horizontal line effects can be produced in al-ternate panels. Glen Urquhart check: It is a large combination check produced by combining alternate blocks of 2 and 2 colouring and 4 and 4 colouring in both warp and weft on 2/2 twill. This produces panels of hounds-tooth check and panels of guard’s check separated by intermediate line effects. Large versions of this check are sometimes known as ‘Prince of Wales’, often with a fine contrasting overcheck in red or another completely different



152 Word



Category



Short description



CHEESE



A cylindrical yarn package See under Warping



See under Warping



CHEESECLOTH



fibers, filaments, yarns processes, operations fabrics



Description colour. Tattersal check: Tattersal checks feature in shirtings and leisure wear fabrics These are copy of ‘horse blanket’ checks and vary in size. They are usually made using two bright colours alternately on a light ground as shown A cylindrical yarn package whose diameter is usually larger than its length.



CHELATING AGENT



³



CHEMIC



³



CHEMICAL FIBRE



fibers, filaments, yarns ³



CHEESE WARPING



CHEMICAL FINISH



CHEMICAL FINISHING



Sometimes called Tobacco cloth. Soft and Sometimes called Tobacco cloth. Soft and loosely woven cotton gauze fabric made from fine yarn. The natural colour of this sheer loosely woven cotton gauze fabric made from gauze is cream but it can be bleached or dyed. Plain weave, sometimes heavily sized, fine yarn. and has a rough finish and wrinkled look. Not hardwearing but washes well. Originally used for wrapping cheese and for making polishing clothes, and sometimes as a mount-ing or underlining fabric. When it became a fashion fabric, the quality was improved and the texture made slightly closer. Fashion cheesecloth may contain some polyester. Strictly speaking it does not require pressing but this does improve its appearance. Used for blouses, skirts, nightwear, and men’s shirts. Also called Also called Sequestering agent. A chemical Sequestering agent. capable of deactivating metal ions by formation of a water-soluble complex. Chelating agents are used to reduce the amount of foam present in a liquor. Also called Chemick Also called Chemick. The chlorine bleaching bath; Calcium hypochlorite or sodium hypochlorite solution See under Fibre See under Fibre



Chemical materials, Chemical materials, other than colorants, and residual processing chemicals added to other than colorants, textiles to impart desired functional or and residual processing aesthetic properties to the textile product. chemicals added to textiles processes, The application of The application of chemicals, other than operations chemicals, other than colorants, to textiles to impart desired



153 Word



Category



CHEMICAL STABILITY



general



CHEMICK CHEMICKING CHENILLE



³ processes, operations fibers, filaments, yarns, fabrics



CHENILLE BEDSPREAD



fabrics



CHEST GIRTH



CHEST PIECE



CHESTING



Short description Description colorants, to textiles to functional and/or aesthetic characteristics impart desired which may or may not be durable in normal functional and/or use, e.g. water repellency, glaze, crease aesthetic resistance, mercerising, etc. characteristics Degree of resistance of Degree of resistance of a textile material to a textile material chemicals such as acids, bases, solvents, oils, oxidising agents; and to chemical reactions such as those catalyzed by light. See Chemic See Chemic Bleaching of nonBleaching of non-protein fibre materials by protein fibre materials means of a dilute hypochlorite solution. A type of fancy yarn. 1. YARN. A type of fancy yarn. Name derived from the French word for a caterpillar, which is ex-actly what it resembles. The yarn is made, with pile protruding all round, by cutting a ladder-like fabric into strips, so that the ends of the soft twisted yarns loosen and form pile-like fringe. Also a yarn resembling chenille is produced by electrostatic flocking an axial yarn treated with an adhesive. 2. FABRIC. The fringed chenille yarns are woven in a gauze weave to make a fabric with pile on one or both sides. Fibres used may be silk, viscose, cotton, wool, or mixtures. Chenille fabric is made for furnishings, curtains, chair covers, cushion covers. For dresses and coats, specially finished chenille are also made. Very expensive. Does not crease. Chenille yarns are made for knitting also. A tufted bedspread A tufted bedspread made of tufts of soft cotton yarns sewn into a muslin sheeting, spaced close to-gether in continuous lines and clipped on the face of the bedspread. The tufted lines give the effect of chenille yarn, although actually no chenille yarn is used. Garment-related term. Garment-related term. See under Garment sizing system



garments, made-ups, assemblies garments, An additional layer or An additional layer or layers of interlinings in made-ups, layers of interlinings in the chest area of a garment, for strength and shape retention assemblies the chest area of a garment processes, A finishing process A finishing process applied on cotton fabrics



154 Word



Category operations



CHEVILLIER



processes, operations



CHEVIOT TWEED



fabrics



CHIFFON



fabrics



Short description applied on cotton fabrics A finishing process



Description to produce a thready and lustrous effect.



A finishing process, which imparts softness and lustre to dyed silk yarns by twisting and winding under pressure It takes its name from It takes its name from the Cheviot sheep of the Cheviot sheep of Scotland. These sheep produce a strong Scotland. hardwearing wool of which the best qualities have a fairly soft handle. A wide range of fabric, used for hardwearing suits, sporting clothes, and golfing skirts, are made in a variety of stripe, check and mixture styles. The suitings have a fairly fine and clean appearance on the surface in the best qualities. The fabric shows the weave on the surface or they can be densely fibrous and milled to a firm compactness. This type of tweed is variable in appearance and the only constant feature is the wool quality character. A light, soft, filmy, A light, soft, filmy, sheer, open-mesh silk sheer, open-mesh silk fabric made in plain weave with very fine fabric yarns. Made from silk of the finest lightly twisted yarn, woven in gum condition, then degummed after weaving. Chiffon is also made in man-made fibres; usually monofilament yarns of nylon, polyester and viscose. Sometimes made in cotton too. Although thin and sheer, it is fairly strong, but it may ‘give’ at the seams. Used for loose fitting garments, such as blouses, nightwear and as an evening overdress on top of a dress of satin, taffeta, etc. Not very expensive. Silk chiffon is the softest, polyester chiffon slightly firmer and less transparent. Chiffon may have a satin stripe or spots as decora-tion. Very light weight fabrics weighing 15 gm or even less per square metre are made of this type with beautiful handle and draping properties. Because of the looseness of structure, yarns slide very eas-ily and hence, it is a difficult fabric to make up. Hard twist silk yarns can be used to make ‘crêpe chiffon’, with a characteristic crinkled surface appearance. The term chiffon is also used as a prefix to other fabric names to indicate very lightweight versions of these fabrics, e.g.



155 Word



Category



Short description



CHIFFON TWIST



fibers, filaments, yarns



A mill term for hard twisted single silk or rayon yarns with 50 or more turns per inch



CHIFFON VELVET



fabrics



CHINA SILK CHINA-GRASS CHINCHILLA



CHINCHILLA CLOTH



CHINESE COTTON



CHINO



CHINTZ



CHIP FIBRE



CHLORINE



Description chiffon velvet, chif-fon taffeta, etc. A mill term for hard twisted single silk or rayon yarns with 50 or more turns per inch. Used for chiffon, mousseline de soie, etc. now also applied to similarly twisted yarns of man-made fibres. Very light, soft velvet fabric with little substance to it. It is floaty and effective but very difficult to sew. It has a short cut pile. See Jap silk See Ramie. Bluish grey, soft, curly fur, with marks and shadings, which comes from a small rodent bred in captivity for the fur. Rarely found now due to the rarity of the animal and subsequent high cost of the fur.



Very light, soft velvet fabric with little substance to it fabrics See Jap silk fabrics See Ramie. fibers, Bluish grey, soft, curly filaments, fur, with marks and yarns shadings, which comes from a small rodent bred in captivity for the fur. fabrics Cloth made to simulate Cloth made to simulate the fur of the the fur of the chinchilla chinchilla rodent. It is a wool coating fabric, in rodent. thick twill weave with a napped surface rolled into little curly balls by a special rubbing machine. Its chief characteristic is its spongy feel; it is not heavy or dense. Fairly expensive. Used only for coats and capes. fibers, A type of cotton fibre A type of cotton fibre. Average fibre length filaments, 13-18 mm.; usually used in mixture with other yarns qualities. fabrics Firm, usually white, Firm, usually white, cotton fabric, in twill or cotton fabric, in twill or plain weave, of combed mercerised yarns. It plain weave, of combed is hardwearing. Used for sportswear and mercerised yarns. summer uniforms fabrics Name derived from the Name derived from the Indian word ‘chint’, meaning coloured and variegated. Good Indian word ‘chint’, meaning coloured and quality printed floral cotton furnishing fabric on a white or natural ground. Printed designs variegated. are usually large, of flowers, birds, etc. Is a fine, closely woven cloth, sized and calendered in order to resist dirt. Used for curtains, loose covers, etc., and only occasionally for clothes. See also Glazed chintz Wool that has been treated with chlorine to fibers, Wool that has been filaments, treated with chlorine to decrease shrinkage and increase the ability to take dyes. Useful in producing two colour yarns decrease shrinkage and increase the ability effects in a single dye-bath and in preparation of wool for printing. to take dyes ³ A greenish-yellow A greenish-yellow gaseous element widely



156 Word



Category



Short description gaseous element



Description used as a bleaching element. Available in various forms and compounds for bleaching cellulose fibres CHLORINE BLEACH ³ A bleach that releases A bleach that releases the hypochlorite ion in the hypochlorite ion in solution, e.g. sodium hypochlorite. solution CHLORINE RESISTANT processes, Resin finish for fabrics, Resin finish for fabrics, especially to provide crease resistance or wrinkle resistance or FINISH operations especially to provide wash and wear properties, which does not crease resistance or retain chlorine when exposed during wrinkle resistance or laundering. If chlorine is retained, as is the wash and wear case with most urea and melamine finishes, properties the heat of ironing turns the chlorine to hydrochloric acid which yellows and weakens the fabric. In textiles, unblocked nitrogen in resin may CHLORINE RETENTION fibers, In textiles, unblocked filaments, nitrogen in resin may attract and retain varying amount of chlorine. Chlorine released by the heat of ironing will yarns attract and retain react with water to cause discoloration and varying amount of degradation of the fabric chlorine. CHLOROFIBRE fibers, Generic name for a Generic name for a manufactured fibre filaments, manufactured fibre composed of synthetic linear macromolecules yarns having in the chain more than 50 % (by mass) of chrloroethene (vinyl chloride) or 1,1dichloroethene (vinylidene chloride) groups (more than 65 % in case when the rest of the chain is made up of cyanoethene (acrilonitrile) groups, the modacrylic fibres being thus excluded. Chlorofibres are often blended with other fibres such as acrylic, polyester, nylon or wool and are made into woven and knitted fabrics. Being non-flammable, the fibre is also used as the backing for deep pile imitation fur fabrics. However, the term is also widely used to denote polyvinyl chloride fibres. See also Polyvinylchloride. CHOPPED WEFT defects Also called Cut weft Also called Cut weft. Weft that has been fractured by the reed while being beaten up during weaving. CHROMA general The relative intensity, The relative intensity, saturation or purity of a saturation or purity of a colour, e.g. bright red, dull red, etc colour CHROMATIC COLOURS general Hue colours such as Hue colours such as blue, yellow, red as blue, yellow, red opposed to the Achromatic colours such as grey, slate, white. CHROMATICITY general The quality of colour The quality of colour expressed as a function



157 Word



Category



CHROME



³



CHROME DYES



processes, operations



CHROME LEATHER



fabrics



CHROME TOP DYES



³



CHROMOPHORE



³



CHROMOSCOPE



apparatus, equipage, tools general



CHRYSALIS



CHYSOLITE



fibers, filaments, yarns



CIE SPECIAL TRISTIMULUS VALUES CIRCLE TWISTED



³



CIRCULAR BEND



fibers, filaments, yarns



processes, operations



Short description



Description of wavelength and purity. Sodium dichromate or Sodium dichromate or potassium dichromate potassium dichromate oxidising agents used for mordanting. oxidising agents Mordant dyes are capable of forming a Mordant dyes are chelate complex with a chromium ion. They capable of forming a chelate complex with a are not as bright, but are faster than the acid dyes. Used extensively for men’s wear chromium ion. fabrics. Inexpensive leather Inexpensive leather that has been tanned that has been tanned with chromium salts. Used mostly in the shoe with chromium salts. industry. An important mass of An important mass of fast dyes for wool. The fast dyes for wool. chrome dyes or mordant is applied after the dyeing process That part of the molecular structure of an That part of the organic dye or pigment responsible for molecular structure of colour. an organic dye or pigment responsible for colour. An instrument for An instrument for showing the optical effects showing the optical of colour effects of colour The form taken by silkworms in the passive The form taken by stage of development between worm and silkworms in the moth. It is dark brown and fragments of it can passive stage of development between be detected in silk waste, especially in noils worm and moth. Based on its chemical Based on its chemical nature, Asbetos is nature, Asbetos is classified into chysolite and crocodolite. The classified into chysolite chemical description of Chysolite is and crocodolite magnesium silicate. Geographical sources; Canada and Russia. See under Colour See under Colour measurement. measurement. A core yarn produced A core yarn produced at the spinning frame by the feeding of yarn through the delivery at the spinning frame by the feeding of yarn rollers only, simultaneously with the spinning through the delivery of staple yarn. Typical core component yarns are staple, elastomeric, flat or textured rollers only, filament yarns. See also Core yarn. simultaneously with the spinning of staple yarn. Simultaneous, multiSimultaneous, multi-directional deformation directional deformation of a fabric in which one face of a flat of a fabric specimen becomes concave and the other becomes convex.



158 Word CIRCULAR KNIT



Category fabrics



Short description Description Thin plain knit fabric Thin plain knit fabric made on a circular made on a circular knitting machine. knitting machine. CIRCULAR KNITTING apparatus, A knitting machine in A knitting machine in which the needles are set radially or in parallel in one or more MACHINE equipage, which the needles are tools set radially or in parallel circular beds. Used without qualification, the term generally refers to a weft-knitting in one or more circular machine of this type. Ma-chines with beds diameters of less than 165 mm are generally termed ‘small-diameter machines’. CIRCULAR LOOM apparatus, A loom with the warp A loom with the warp set in a circle round a equipage, set in a circle round a circular shuttle race, used for weaving coarse tools circular shuttle race cloths such as sacking CIRCULAR SHUTTLE apparatus, A cylinder, placed at A cylinder, placed at the end of shuttle race, BOX equipage, the end of shuttle race, which carries two or more shuttles. It revolves so as to bring shuttles to the level of the tools which carries two or shuttle race in turn as required and change more shuttles the shuttles according to the pattern and, in automatic looms, when they become empty. Not used as widely as the rising and falling shuttle box systems CIRÉ fabrics French word for French word for ‘waxed’. It was originally a ‘waxed’. waxed fabric used for shrouds. Waxing treatment makes the fabric surface very lustrous and smooth; it may be applied to silk also. See Nylon cirè. CISELÉ VELVET fabrics The characteristics of The characteristics of ciselé velvet is a ciselé velvet is a pattern formed by cutting only some of the pattern pile; the rest is left uncut. CLADDING apparatus, Any item of covering Any item of covering material which is applied equipage, material which is to the head or buck of a pressing or undertools applied to the head or pressing machine buck of a pressing or under-pressing machine CLASSIFIED GARMENT defects See Garment defects, See Garment defects, classified DEFECTS classified CLAY apparatus, See Tailor’s chalk. See Tailor’s chalk. equipage, tools CLEAN CUT processes, A clean cut is created A clean cut is created in a woven fabric, operations in a woven fabric in a where two adjacent ends or two adjacent Herringbone picks interlace in an exactly opposite order to each other, e.g., in a Herringbone CLEAN-FINISH SEAMseams, Also called Turned and Also called Turned and stitched seam-finish. FINISH stitches stitched seam-finish. A finish for the raw edges of the seam allowances of a plain seam, in which the raw



159 Word



Category



CLEANING AGENT



chemicals, textile auxiliaries



CLEANNESS



general



CLEAR



fibers, filaments, yarns



CLEAR FINISH



processes, operations



CLEARING



processes, operations



CLEM



garments, made-ups, assemblies



Short description



Description seam allowance is folded under and edge stitched. A clean-finish seam-finish is made by (1) turning under the raw edge of a plain seam allowance approximately 3 to 6 mm, and (2) stitching close to the folded edge. It may be helpful on curved areas or some fabrics, to place a row of stitching 3 to 6 mm from the raw edge to serve as a guide for turning. A chemical compound or formulation of A chemical compound several compounds which loosen, disperse, or formulation of dissolve, or emulsify soil to facilitate removal several compounds by mechanical action. which loosen, disperse, dissolve, or emulsify soil In a textile material, the In a textile material, the absence of change in absence of change in appearance due to soil, specifically the appearance due to soil degree to which the specimen approaches the original clean, unsoiled condition. Cleanness is independent of changes of physical structure, which may be present because of exposure to traffic or action of cleaning procedures. Term commonly used Term commonly used to denote man-made fibres, the natural lustre of which has not to denote man-made fibres, the natural lustre been reduced, i.e. absence of any delustrant of which has not been in the fibre. See also Delustrant, Delustered and Bright reduced A type of finish on A type of finish on fabrics containing wool. fabrics containing wool. The surface of the fabric is made relatively free from protruding fibres and the weave and the colours of the constituent yarns are made clear, distinct, and sharp. Examples of clear finished fabrics include serges and many worsted fabrics. Shearing and singeing treatments make for a clear finish, while fulling and napping tend to cover up the weave and the yarns. IN YARNS, the 1. IN YARNS, the operation to remove flaws operation to remove and faults in a yarn. flaws and faults in a 2. IN FABRICS either dyed or printed, the yarn. removal of surplus colorant, which, if allowed to remain, would mar the appearance of the quality of the textile A very small dart A very small dart which is sewn and not cut



160 Word CLEVYL



CLING CLIP MARK



CLIP SPOT WEAVE



CLIP-CONE TWO-FORONE TWISTING CLO



CLOQUÉ



Category Short description Description fabrics Trade name for a range Trade name for a range of flame resistant of flame resistant fabrics made from PVC chlorofibre. Used for fabrics made from PVC furnishings in public buildings, offices, etc., chlorofibre on account of their exceptional safety and also because of the wide range of weaves and effects that are possible. general See Fibre cohesion. See Fibre cohesion. defects Fabric defect. Fabric defect. Also called Centring mark, Stenter mark, Tenter mark. A visible deformation of shift marks along the side edge or body of the fabric, caused due to unduly strained fabric at the point where the clip or pin has held fabric on the stenter frame. See also Pin mark. Figured fabrics decorated with small fabrics Figured fabrics detached spots of extra warp or weft yarn. decorated with small detached spots of extra The floating material between the spots is clipped off or sheared in finishing warp or weft yarn. processes, See under Two-for-one See under Two-for-one twisting operations twisting general Also called Intrinsic clo Also called Intrinsic clo. Unit of thermal resistance defined as the insulation required to keep a resting man (producing heat at the rate of 58 W/m2 ) comfortable in an environment at 21° C, air movement 0.1 m/s, or roughly the insulation value of typical indoor clothing. fabrics French word for French word for ‘blistered’. A soft fabric that ‘blistered’. A soft fabric drapes well into elaborate styles; a fabric with that drapes well into a figured blister effect on the surface, brought elaborate styles. about by the use of yarns of different character. These will respond in different ways to finishing treatments, e.g. two yarns of uneven shrinkage potentials are woven together. The fabric is then relaxed, when one yarn shrinks more than the other and the excess material is left to form a design. The raised figures may be regular or in irregular lines. Once a popular silk fabric for gowns and hats, it was superseded by artificial silk imitations. Now it is produced mainly from acetate and polyester yarns, and the advantage of this development is that the blistering is permanent. Used for evening and cocktail wear, some millinery, and negligées. Does not crease.



161 Word CLOSED LOOP



Category fabrics



Short description Description A term used in both A term used in both weft and warp knitting to weft and warp knitting describe a loop closed at the base, i.e. the component thread crosses over itself in the construction of the loop A method of shedding in which all warp CLOSED SHEDDING processes, A method of shedding threads are brought to the same level after operations in which all warp threads are brought to the insertion of each pick of weft. There are the same level after the two main types: ‘bottom-closed shedding’ and insertion of each pick of ‘centre-closed shedding’ (the terms ‘bottom’ and ‘centre’ indicate the position of the warp weft threads when at rest). CLOSED-FACE FABRIC fabrics A face or shell fabric of A face or shell fabric of closed construction closed construction so that no open-face areas appear. Low count cotton fabrics that have been CLOSING fabrics Low count cotton fabrics that have been sized to fill in open spaces between warp and filling yarns. Calendering follows to flatten the sized to fill in open yarn and thus make a compact cloth. spaces between warp and filling yarns. CLOTH fabrics A piece of textile fabric A piece of textile fabric suitable for a suitable for a specified specified use. The word is used to describe use. any type of fabric, however in the tailoring trade the word cloth is usually applied only to the principal or outside fabric of a garment. CLOTHY fabrics Both the hand and Both the hand and appearance of fabric. A appearance of fabric. clothy hand is firm but supple and has body, as distinguished from a papery and limpy hand. A threadiness of the fabric, a cloth that clearly shows the threads on the face, is described as having a clothy appearance. CLOUD YARN fibers, A type of fancy yarn. A type of fancy yarn. A yarn using two filaments, threads of different colours in such a manner yarns that each thread alternately forms the base and cover to ‘cloud’ the opposing thread. It is made by alternate fast and slow deliveries from two pairs of rollers. CLOUDY GOODS defects Fabric defect. Fabric defect. Materials that are off-shade, because of uneven dyeing or due to faulty finishing of the goods. See also Mottled fabric CLUNY LACE fabrics Close, heavy bobbin Close, heavy bobbin lace made originally in lace made originally in France and Belgium, often with a wheel France and Belgium, design. Its heaviness limited its use to collar often with a wheel decoration in dress but it was much used for design. mats, doilies and tableware CLYDELLA fabrics Trade name for a Trade name for a traditional fabric, soft traditional fabric woven mixture of 81 % cotton and 19 % wool, in plain or print. Wears well, is soft and warm and washes easily. Used for shirts, blouses,



162 Word



Category



CM



fibers, filaments, yarns ³



CMC CMT



CO-SPUN YARN



COACH LACE COAL TAR DYES



COARSE END



COARSE FILLING BAR



COARSE PICK



COARSE THREAD COAT



COATED COTTON



Short description



Description nightwear, baby’s and children’s clothes. See also Viyella. See Carboxymethylated cotton.



See Carboxymethylated cotton. See See Carboxymethylcellulose Carboxymethylcellulose processes, Abbreviation of ‘cut, Abbreviation of ‘cut, make and trim’. In operations make and trim’. garment industry, the practice of a contractor being supplied with materials and designs in order to produce garments for a principal fibers, A yarn composed of a A yarn composed of a number of filaments of filaments, number of filaments of polymer X and filaments of polymer Y that were extruded simultaneously during yarn yarns polymer X and manufacture to form a single strand. filaments of polymer Y Polymers X and Y can be either of different that were extruded simultaneously during generic species, such as nylon and polyester, or of the same species, such as copolymer yarn manufacture to and homopolymer polyester. form a single strand. fabrics See Carriage lace See Carriage lace seams, Synthetic dyes made Synthetic dyes made from coal tar. The ‘dye stitches from coal tar. intermediates’ developed form ‘coal tar crudes’ are by further chemical combinations converted in to coal tar dyes. Among ‘natural dyes’, these are superior in colour range, purity, fastness and ease of application. defects Fabric defect. Fabric defect. Also called Heavy end and Coarse thread. A larger than normal diameter warp end. defects Fabric defect. Fabric defect. Same as Set mark and Heavy place. A weftwise bar either across the full width of the cloth or a portion of it, containing picks of larger diameter than normally being used in the fabric or containing more than the normal number of picks defects Fabric defect in woven Fabric defect in woven fabric. Also called fabric. Thick pick and Heavy pick. One or more pick yarns larger in diameter than normally being used in the fabric defects See Coarse end. See Coarse end. garments, An outer garment An outer garment, which covers at least the made-ups, upper half of the body, has sleeves and a assemblies front opening, and is usually worn over another garment, such as a shirt or dress fabrics A thin coating of A thin coating of polyurethane on cotton or polyurethane on cotton viscose backing produces a soft shower-



163 Word



Category



COATED FABRIC



fabrics



COBBLE COBBLER



COBWEBBING



COCHINEAL COCKLE



COCKLING



COCOANUT FIBRE



COCOON



Short description or viscose backing produces a soft shower-proof cloth. A flexible material



Description proof cloth. Plain or printed. Used for shorts, anoraks, raincoats, and jackets. A flexible material composed of a textile fabric and an adherent polymeric material applied to one or both surfaces. See also Laminated fabric To correct a defectively processed fabric.



processes, To correct a defectively operations processed fabric. fabrics defectively dyed or defectively dyed or finished fabric returned for finished fabric returned correction for correction defects Also called Stitching, Also called Stitching, Crossing and Webbing. Crossing and Webbing A fault in winding, that causes threads to lie in a straight line across the end of a package. It is caused by the yarn slipping beyond the normal extremity of the traverse during winding. Cobwebbing may result in yarn breaks during unwinding. ³ A natural dye of brilliant A natural dye of brilliant red colour made from red colour female cochineal insects. defects, IN YARN, isolated 1. IN YARN, isolated loops of fibres garments, loops of fibres protruding from the yarn surface owing to the made-ups, protruding from the relaxation of adja-cent fibres that have assemblies yarn surface previously been stretched during processing. IN FABRIC, a defect. If not intended, a defect. 2. IN FABRIC, a defect. The wrinkled appearance of a fabric in which non-uniform relaxation or shrinkage has occurred. This defect may result from variations in the tension of the ends or picks at the time of weaving, from variations in the degree of stretch imposed on the yarn during earlier pro-cesses, or from differences in the contraction of two or more yarns used accidentally in the fabric. The defect may be distributed over a large area of fabric or may be confined to isolated stripes, bars, or streaks. 3. See Hockle. fabrics In knitted fabric, an In knitted fabric, an irregular surface effect irregular surface effect caused by loop distortion. If not intended, a defect. fibers, A coarse, long fibre A coarse, long fibre obtained from the filaments, obtained from the cocoanut. Used for coir yarn, brushes, etc. yarns cocoanut. fibers, An egg-shaped casing An egg-shaped casing of silk spun by



164 Word



COCOON STRIPPINGS



COEFFICIENT OF FRICTION



COEFFICIENT OF TWIST



COEFFICIENT OF VARIATION



COEFFICIENT OF VARIATION UNEVENNESS



COHESION COHESIVE FORCE



COHESIVE SET COIN DOTS COIR



Category Short description Description filaments, of silk spun by silkworm silkworm to protect itself as a chrysalis yarns fibers, Also called Blaze and Also called Blaze and Keba. The first threads filaments, Keba. secreted by the silkworm when it finds a yarns place to form its cocoon general The ratio of the force The ratio of the force required to achieve this relative motion to the force to the force required to achieve this pressing two bodies together. relative motion to the force to the force pressing two bodies together. general A measure of the level A measure of the level of twist of a yarn, of twist of a yarn determined by the multiplication of the turns per unit length by the square root of the linear density on a direct system, or the division of the turns per unit length by the square root of the count on an indirect system general Also called CV. Also called CV. A measure of the dispersion of observed values equal to the standard deviation for the values divided by the average of the values; may be expressed as a percentage of the average CV %. general Also called CV %. Also called CV %. In textiles, the standard deviation of the linear densities over which unevenness is measured, expressed as a percentage of the average linear density for the total length within which unevenness is measured. See also Unevenness and Mean deviation unevenness. general See Fibre cohesion. See Fibre cohesion. In a textile strand, the force required to general In a textile strand, the overcome fibre cohesion as the strand is force required to being reduced in linear density overcome fibre cohesion processes, See under Setting See under Setting operations fabrics See under Polka dots See under Polka dots fibers, Coir is a coarse, dark Coir is a coarse, dark brown fibre obtained filaments, brown fibre obtained from coconut, the fruit of the palm cocos yarns from coconut, the fruit nucifera. Used mainly for ropes, carpets, of the palm cocos doormats etc. There are three types of coir nucifera. fibre. The longest and finest, which is usually obtained from the unripe fruit, is spun into yarn for making mats and ropes; a coarser fibre known as bristle fibre, is used for filling brushes; and a shorter fibre is used for filling mattresses and upholstery, etc.



165 Word COLLAGEN FIBRE



Category fibers, filaments, yarns



COLLAR



garments, made-ups, assemblies



COLLAR CANVAS



fabrics



COLORANT



³



COLORANT BLEEDING COLORANT STAINING



defects defects



COLORIMETER



apparatus, equipage, tools



COLORIMETRIC SYSTEM COLOUR



³ general



Short description A protein fibre produced from split hides



Description A protein fibre produced from split hides. These dope-dyed fibres are similar to horsehair in appearance. It has good dimensional stability and excellent resistance to drycleaning solvents. Used mainly for brushes Neck band, upright or Neck band, upright or turned over on a coat, turned over on a coat, dress, shirt, etc. Band of lining, lace or other dress, shirt, etc. material, which completes the upper part of a garment around the neck. See under Linen See under Linen canvas canvas A material which is A material which is applied to a substrate for applied to a substrate the express purpose of changing the transmittance or reflectance of visible light. Dyes, pigments, tints, and optical brighteners are examples of colorants. See Colour bleeding See Colour bleeding The unintended pickup The unintended pickup of colorant by a of colorant by a substrate (a) due to exposure to a coloured substrate or contaminated liquid medium, or (b) due to direct contact with dyed or pigmented material, from which colorant transfers by sublimation or mechanical action (as in crocking). See also Colour staining. An instrument for An instrument for measuring the depth of measuring the depth of colour in a liquid by comparison with a colour in a liquid standard liquid of the same tint. A device for determining and characterising colours by reference either to other colours or to certain complex stimuli. See under Colour See under Colour measurement. measurement. When a beam of sunlight passes through a When a beam of sunlight passes through prism it is separated into a spectrum of seven a prism it is separated easily discernible colours, which are: Violet, Blue, Blue-green, Green, Yellow, Orange and into a spectrum of seven easily discernible Red. The phenomenon of colour may be defined as the sensation created in the brain colours, which are: of the beholder, by the message stimulated Violet, Blue, Blueby the impact of radiation of a particular green, Green, Yellow, wavelength on the nerves in the eye. Orange and Red. Primary Colours: The primary or pure colours are red, yellow and blue; when mixed they produce all other colours. Secondary Colours: Green, orange and viloet. Obtained by mixing two primary



166 Word



Category



Short description



Description colours. Tertiary Colours: Shades of colour made by mixing the primary colours or one or more of the secondary colours with grey or black. COLOUR ABRASION defects See Frosting. See Frosting. COLOUR BLEEDING defects Also called Bleeding. Also called Bleeding. Dyeing defect. The loss Dyeing defect. of colour from a dyed textile substrate when in contact with water, dry-cleaning solvent, or condensed vapours, or similar liquid medium with consequent colouring of the liquid medium. COLOUR BLOCK apparatus, A print-block, usually of A print-block, usually of wood, infilled with felt equipage, wood to facilitate the printing of bigger areas of tools colour with as little unevenness as possible COLOUR BOX apparatus, See Colour trough See Colour trough equipage, tools In textile testing, a change in colour of any COLOUR CHANGE processes, In textile testing, a operations change in colour of any kind whether in lightness, hue or chroma, or any combination of these, discernible by kind whether in comparing the test specimen with a lightness, hue or corresponding untested specimen. chroma The ability of a coloured object to give the COLOUR CONSTANCY ³ The ability of a coloured object to give same general colour impression when viewed under different illuminants, the observer the same general colour impression when having been chromatically adapted in each viewed under different case. The most common comparison is made between the impression under artificial light, illuminants e.g. tungsten filament, and that under daylight COLOUR DISCHARGE processes, See Discharge style See Discharge style printing PRINTING operations printing COLOUR DOCTOR apparatus, See Doctor. See Doctor. equipage, tools COLOUR FASTNESS general The resistance of a The resistance of a textile material to change in any of its colour characteristics, to transfer textile material to its colorant(s) to adjacent materials, or both, change in any of its colour characteristics as a result of the exposure of the material to any environment that might be encountered during the processing, testing, storage or use of the material. COLOUR FASTNESS TO general The resistance of a The resistance of a textile material to change in its colour characteristics as a result of the LIGHT textile material to exposure of the material to sunlight or an change in its colour artificial light source. characteristics COLOUR GRADING processes, The act of identifying a The act of identifying a dyed or printed textile



167 Word



COLOUR INDEX INTERNATIONAL



COLOUR INTENSITY COLOUR LAKE



COLOUR MATCHING



COLOUR MEASUREMENT



Category operations



Short description Description dyed or printed textile material specimen by a colour grade or material specimen by a colour score that is specific to the colour and colour grade or colour the material graded. The following terms may score be used for qualitative description of colour changes: general Important information, Important information, on the thousands of commercial dyestuffs made in the world by on the thousands of major dyestuff manufacturers in various commercial dyestuffs countries. These dyestuffs, is compiled in a made in the world by publication, ‘Colour Index International’, major dyestuff jointly published by the Society of Dyers and manufacturers in Colourists of the UK and the American various countries. Association of Textile Chemists and Colourists. In this very useful publication, the dyestuffs are classified based on their chemical structure and each dyestuff is given a C.I. Constitution Number. They are also classified according to the application or usage, in which they are given a C.I. Generic Name, along with its colour (hue). See also Colour Index constitution number, and ColourIndex generic name ³ See Colour saturation. See Colour saturation. ³ The insoluble The insoluble combination of mordant and a combination of mordant dyestuff that has been fixed on the fibre, such and a dyestuff that has as tannin with basic dyes on cotton, or been fixed on the fibre chrome dyes with a mordant on wool. processes, The art of reproducing The art of reproducing a colour upon similar operations a colour upon similar or or different materials. Matchings can be done different materials. on fibre, yarn or cloth. ³ Colorimetric System, Colorimetric System: Quantitative system of Trichromatic System, colour specification based on scales derived from ei-ther additive or subtractive colour Special Tristimulus mixture. Values, Trichromatic System: System of colour CIE special Tristimulus specification based on the possibility of Values matching a colour stimulus by the additive mixture of three suitably chosen reference stimuli. Special Tristimulus Values: Tristimulus values, on any given trichromatic system, of the mono-chromatic components of an equienergy spectrum. The set of spectral tristimulus values defines the ‘colourmatching functions’ or ‘colour matchingcurves’. CIE special Tristimulus Values: Colour characterised numerically by tristimulus



168 Word



Category



COLOUR OUT



defects



COLOUR QUALITY . COLOUR QUALIT COLOUR SATURATION



³



COLOUR SMEAR



defects



COLOUR STAINING



defects



COLOUR STRIPPERS



³



³



COLOUR SUBLIMATION processes, operations COLOUR TROUGH apparatus, equipage, tools COLOUR VALUE ³



COLOUR YIELD



³



COLOUR-AND-WEAVE EFFECT



fabrics



Short description



Description values of the spectral components of an equienergy spectrum in the CIE (XYZ) system Printing defect, major Printing defect, major. This is the result of colour running low in the reservoir on the printing ma-chine. A specification of colour A specification of colour in terms of both hue I and saturation, but not luminance. Also called Colour Also called Colour intensity. A measure of the intensity strength or purity of a colour. The nearness of a colour in purity to the associated spectral colour. Purity increases with increasing concentration of dye on the fibre Printing defect, may be Printing defect, may be major or minor. The major or minor result of the colour being smeared during printing. Fabric defect. The Fabric defect. The undesired pickup of colour undesired pickup of by a fabric, (a) when immersed in water, drycolour by a fabric, cleaning solvent, or similar liquid medium, that contains dyestuffs, or colouring material not intended for colouring the fabric, or (b) by direct contact with other dyed material from which colour is transferred by bleeding or sublimation. Chemicals that extract Chemicals that extract colour (dyestuffs) from colour (dyestuffs) from fibres, yarns, and fabrics to (a) correct colour fibres, yarns, and defects in the original dyeing; (2) lighten the fabrics shade of the original dyeing; (3) remove colour completely. One type of a loss of a One type of a loss of a dyestuff on a fabric dyestuff on a fabric when subjected to high temperature. Also known as Colour Also known as Colour box. In engraved or box surface roller printing, the colour container in which the furnishing brush or roller rotates. The colour yield of a The colour yield of a colorant, compared with colorant, compared a standard of equal cost. It is usually with a standard of determined by comparing the cost of equal cost. coloration at equal visual strength. Comparisons are normally made between products of similar hue and properties Also called Tinctorial Also called Tinctorial value. The depth of value. colour obtained when a standard weight of colorant is applied to a substrate under specified conditions In a woven fabric, an In a woven fabric, an effect developed by a effect developed by a small-group colour patterning of warp and/or small-group colour weft. The blending of the warp and weft floats patterning of warp of the constituent colours produce a



169 Word



Category



COLOURIST



general



COLOURWAY



COMB



Short description and/or weft.



A person experienced in developing colour formulas fabrics, IN FABRICS: A processes, rendering of a design or operations printed fabric in a set of colours differing from the original. IN PRINTING:Alternative colouring of a design on fabric.



Description distinctive effect which renders the weave effect virtually indistinguishable and often the colour order of the threads is not apparent A person experienced in developing colour formulas, evaluating samples for colour, and producing colour samples to meet standards 1. IN FABRICS. A rendering of a design or printed fabric in a set of colours differing from the origi-nal. Fabrics are usually made in a set of at least four colourways. 2. IN PRINTING. Alternative colouring of a design on fabric. Because it is usual to have an overlap or ‘allowance’ on paler colours where these print next to deeper shades, it is essential for an alternative colourway to retain the tone relationship - i.e. darker remains darker - although the distance between the tones can be changed In weaving, a comb-like device to separate yarns in a warp.



apparatus, to separate yarns in a equipage, warp. tools COMBED YARN fibers, Yarn made from fibres Yarn made from fibres that have been carded filaments, that have been carded and combed in the manufacturing process. yarns and combed COMBINATION fabrics Fabrics that contain two Fabrics that contain two or more different FABRICS or more different types types of fibre. However, these differ from of fibre. blends in that any one single yarn in a combination fabric is composed of only one fibre type. COMBINATION LACE fabrics Openwork effects Openwork effects obtained in lace furnishings obtained in lace by nipping two or more pillars (or warps) furnishings together to make a hole wider than a normal wale COMBINATION TWILL fabrics Also called Combined Also called Combined twill. A twill, which twill. combines two regular twills in one weave. COMBINATION YARN fibers, A plied yarn twisted A plied yarn twisted from single yarns of filaments, from single yarns of different fibres, e.g. silk, and rayon, or rayon yarns different fibres, and acetate. See also Blended yarn and Selfblended yarn. COMBINATION-STITCH seams, A back-stitch and two A back-stitch and two or more running stitches or more running stitches combined. Combination stitch is used stitches combined. when more strength is required than can be afforded by a running stitch. COMBINED ROPE accessories See under Rope See under Rope COMBINED TWILL fabrics See Combination twill See Combination twill COMBING processes, The process of The process of straightening and parellelizing



170 Word



Category operations



Short description Description straightening and fibres and removing short fibres and parellelizing fibres and impurities by using a comb. See also removing short fibres Combing under Yarn spinning. and impurities by using a comb. COMBING WOOL fibers, Wool that is strong and Wool that is strong and strictly of combing filaments, strictly of combing length, i.e. 2 in. (50 mm) or more. yarns length COMBUSTIBLE TEXTILE general A textile that will ignite A textile that will ignite and burn or that will and burn give off vapours that will ignite and burn when subjected to external sources of ignition COMBUSTION processes, A chemical process of A chemical process of oxidation that occurs operations oxidation at a rate fast enough to produce heat and usually light either as a glow or flames. COMFORT fibers, See under Fibre See under Fibre properties filaments, properties yarns COMFORT STRETCH fabrics See under Woven See under Woven stretch fabric FABRICS stretch fabric COMFORTER garments, A bed-covering A bed-covering assembly, consisting of an made-ups, assembly insulating filler secured between two layers of assemblies fabric, used primarily to reduce heat loss. COMMERCIAL general An arbitrary value equal An arbitrary value equal to the commercial ALLOWANCE to the commercial moisture regain plus a specified allowance for moisture regain plus a finish, formally adopted for use with the mass specified allowance for of the scoured, oven-dried material in making finish certain calculations. COMMERCIAL ³ Shades which are not Shades which are not fast to washing or light COLOURS fast to washing or light In wool, the percentages by weight of wool COMMERCIAL fibers, In wool, the base, moisture, and other non-wool base COMPOSITION filaments, percentages by weight components in wool to which a specific yarns of wool base, moisture, commercial designation is applied. and other non-wool base components in wool COMMERCIAL general See under Consumer. See under Consumer. CONSUMER COMMERCIAL fibers, In wool, a term applied In wool, a term applied to a lot of wool in a DESIGNATION filaments, to a lot of wool in a stated form, and having a specified yarns stated form commercial composition. COMMERCIAL DYES ³ See Direct dyes. See Direct dyes. A process by which textile products or COMMERCIAL processes, A process by which specimens may be rinsed, bleached, dried, LAUNDERING operations textile products or and pressed by non-home type equipment, specimens may be rinsed, bleached, dried, typically at higher temperatures, higher pH, and longer times than used for home and pressed by non-



171 Word



Category



COMMERCIAL MASS



general



COMMERCIAL MOISTURE REGAIN



general



COMMERCIAL WEIGHT



general



COMMISSION FINISHER



general



COMMON TWLL



fabrics



COMPACTING



processes, operations



COMPANION FABRICS



fabrics



COMPATBLE SHRINKAGE



fabrics



COMPATIBILITY



³



COMPATIBLE DYES



chemicals, textile auxiliaries



COMPLEX SEAM



seams, stitches



Short description Description home type equipment laundering Also called Commercial Also called Commercial weight. Billed mass weight (weight) as determined by a generally accepted method or as agreed upon between the purchaser and seller. An arbitrary value An arbitrary value formally adopted as the formally adopted as the regain to be used with the oven-dried mass regain to be used when calculating the commercial or legal weight of shipments or deliveries of any specific textile mate-rial. Also called Commercial Also called Commercial mass mass Also called Job finisher. Also called Job finisher. An organisation which dyes and finishes fibre, yarn or fabric to order collecting an agreed upon fee of so much per unit length/weight Also called Ordinary Also called Ordinary twill. An even sided fourtwill. harness twill weave or a simple 45º two up, two down twill. Term sometimes applied to simple two up, one down; one up, two down three up, one down, etc., twills, but, strictly should refer only to two up, two down twill. Processing a manProcessing a man-made fibre and knitted made fibre and knitted fabric with heat and pressure to shrink it so fabric with heat and that the texture is crêpey and bulky. This is a pressure permanent treatment. Two or more fabrics Two or more fabrics designed to be used designed to be used together. together. Linings and other findings that have the same Linings and other shrinkage as the shell (outer) fabric. . findings that have the same shrinkage as the shell (outer) fabric. In textile dyeing, propensity of individual dye In textile dyeing, components in a combination shade to propensity of individual dye components in a exhaust at similar rates resulting in a build-up of shade that is consistent, or nearly combination shade to constant, in hue throughout the dyeing exhaust at similar rates process. Dyestuffs that when Dyestuffs that when mixed together are mixed together are capable of forming a homogenous mixture capable of forming a that neither separates nor is altered by homogenous mixture chemical interaction. A seam made in two or A seam made in two or more steps, as more steps, as opposed to a plain seam. Complex seams opposed to a plain have one or more stitching lines as part of seam. their construction and include double-welt



172 Word



Category



COMPLIMENTARY COLOURS



³



COMPONENT POLYMER



fibers, filaments, yarns garments, made-ups, assemblies



COMPOSITE



COMPOSITE FIBRES



fibers, filaments, yarns



COMPOSITE YARN



fibers, filaments, yarns



COMPOUND FABRIC



fabrics



COMPOUND FEED



COMPOUND NEEDLE



COMPOUND TWILL



Short description



Description seams, flat-felled seams, French seams, lapped seams, mock French seams, slot seams, tucked seams and welt seams. They do not include plain seams or seam-finishes or decorative additions to seams Colours, which are Colours, which are opposite each other on opposite each other on the colour wheel. The primary colour yellow the colour wheel. has purple, which is a combination of red and blue, as its complement. Green, a combination of yellow and blue, has as its complement the primary colour red. Hence, the complementary colour completes the primary colour. When exact parts of complementary colours are combined, grey is procured. A textile fibre polymer A textile fibre polymer with distinguishable with distinguishable properties properties A textile product formed by intimately A textile product formed combining two or more discrete physical by intimately combining phases, usually a solid matrix and a fibrous two or more discrete material. physical phases Fibres composed of Fibres composed of two or more polymer two or more polymer types or variants of one type of polymer in a types or variants of one sheath-core or a side-by-side configuration. type of polymer A yarn composed of both staple and A yarn composed of continuous filament components, e.g. Coreboth staple and spun yarn and Wrap-spun yarn. continuous filament components, A generic term for A generic term for layered woven fabrics in layered woven fabrics which the separate layers or plies, each with its own warp and weft, are produced simultaneously and woven together in one process. Fabrics comprising two plies are known as double (or two-ply) fabrics and others by the number of plies they contain, e.g. three-ply fabric A feed mechanism A feed mechanism comprising synchronised drop feed and needle feed.



apparatus, equipage, tools apparatus, See Two-piece needle See Two-piece needle under Needle. equipage, under Needle. tools fabrics A fancy twill, which A fancy twill, which combines two or more combines two or more twill, weaves which produce an over-all twill twill, effect, with each weave, however, remaining



173 Word



Category



Short description



COMPRESSIBILITY COMPUTER AIDED DESIGN COMPUTER AIDED MANUFACTURE COMPUTER COLOUR MATCHING



fabrics general



See Hand of fabric. See CAD.



Description distinct. See Hand of fabric. See CAD.



general



See CAM



See CAM



processes, operations



COMPUTERISED DYEING



processes, operations



CONDENSATION POLYMERISATION



processes, operations



CONDENSE DYE



³



CONDENSER CARD



apparatus, equipage, tools



CONDENSER-SPUN



fibers, filaments,



the computerised colour matching systems the computerised relies on the use of the spectrophotometer colour matching with an integrated sphere and the digital systems relies on the computer, which is provided with a use of the spectrophotometer with programme, which enables the computer to carry out colour matching calculations. The an integrated sphere spectrophotometer analyses the reflectance and the digital colour value of the dyed sample in computer quantitative terms; i.e. it measures the light reflectance properties of individual dyes on the fabric over the entire visible spectrum. These data for dyes of a specific number of different concentrations are stored in the computer memory. When the colour value of the sample to be matched and a list of dyestuffs to be used are fed into the computer, the computer prints out a number of recipes of these dye-concentrations of varying costs and closenesses. The application of The application of computer control to dyeing computer control to processes. Linear programming of dyes, dyeing processes. which can be formulated to create any colour desired in a shift from a neutral shade or from any colour. Also colour matching through the use of spectrophotometric curves and colorimeters that ensure speed and greater accuracy The formation of a The formation of a polymer by reaction of one polymer or more compounds with elimination of reaction products of low molecular weight such as water A dye which, during or A dye which, during or after application, after application, reacts reacts covalently with itself or other covalently with itself or compounds, other than the substrate, to form other compounds a molecule of greatly increased size. A roller-and-clearer A roller-and-clearer type of card, as distinct type of card, from a flat card, which converts fibrous raw materials to slubbings, by means of a condenser Term describes yarn Term describes yarn spun from slubbing. It is spun from slubbing. laid without any regular order and spun with a



174 Word



Category yarns



CONDITIONING



processes, operations



CONE



fibers, filaments, yarns, apparatus, equipage, tools



CONE ANGLE



CONE WINDING CONEY FUR



CONFUSER



CONGO RED CONING CONING OIL



CONJUGATE



CONNECTING RING



CONSECUTIVE KNITTING



Short description



Description minimum amount of draft and twist. Generally woollen, and sometimes cotton and some man-made fibres are made into yarn by this method. 1. The process of changing the moisture The process of regain of a textile material to a standard changing the moisture value. 2. To bring a textile material to regain of a textile moisture equilibrium with a specified material atmosphere. The conical package of 1. YARN PACKAGE. The conical package of yarn yarn obtained when yarn is wound upon a cone core. It is shaped like a frustum of a cone. 2. YARN HOLDER. A yarn holder or bobbin of conical shape used as a core for a yarn package of conical form, also called a cone core. The angle of the cone The angle of the cone. See Cone.



apparatus, equipage, tools processes, See Coning. See Coning. operations fibers, Soft, longhaired rabbit Soft, longhaired rabbit fur. It is cheap and filaments, fur. often used to imitate more expensive ones. yarns Not hardwearing apparatus, A device to partially A device to partially confine an air jet of the equipage, confine an air jet of the air-jet loom. tools air-jet loom. ³ It is the first synthetic It is the first synthetic Direct dye invented Direct dye invented which would dye cotton without mordants. processes, Also called Cone Also called Cone winding. The operation of operations winding making a cone wound package ³ An oil added in small An oil added in small quantities to yarns to quantities to yarns to lubricate them, especially beneficial in high lubricate them speed winding and knitting. fibers, A bi-component fibre A bi-component fibre, which has a special filaments, ability to crimp on hot or hot/wet treatment yarns because of differential shrinkage accessories In zippers, a device In zippers, a device shaped like the letter ‘D’, shaped like the letter used to secure a pull, having more than one ‘D’ component in its design, to the bail of the slider. A term used to describe the act of loop processes, A term used to describe formation along a row, one loop at a time. operations the act of loop formation along a row, This is a characteristic of most weft knitting machines using the latch needle, and also one loop at a time.



175 Word



Category



Short description



CONSIGNMENT



general



CONSOLIDATION DIMENSIONAL CHANGE



fabrics



All the textile material of a specific type and quality delivered The dimensional change that occurs when a knitted fabric is gently agitated in water



CONSTANT RATE OF EXTENSION



general



Also called CRE



CONSTANT RATE OF LOADING



general



Also called CRL.



CONSTANT RATE OF TRAVERSE



general



Also called CRT



CONSTITUENT ELEMENTS OF HAND



fabrics



CONSTRUCTION



fabrics



CONSUMER



general



Description describes hand knitting. In contrast, flat bearded needle machines incorporate loops into the fabric collectively. All the textile material of a specific type and quality delivered to one customer against a single shipping order. The dimensional change that occurs when a knitted fabric is gently agitated in water to overcome all the frictional constraints in it after it has been allowed to relax in water without agitation to cause the relaxation dimensional change Also called CRE. A machine setting used in textile materials testing in which the rate of increase in the length of the specimen is uniform with time. The rate of increase of force or elongation is dependent upon the extension characteristics of the specimen. Also called CRL. A machine setting used in textile materials testing in which the rate of increase of the force being applied to the specimen is uniform with time. Also called CRT. A machine setting used in textile materials testing in which the straining clamp moves at a uniform rate and the force applied is measured via a force balancing system through the small movement of the nominally fixed jaw. The rate of increase of force or elongation is dependent upon the extension characteristics of the specimen. Those components, qualities, attributes, dimensions, properties or impressions which make the sensation of touching one fabric different from that of touching another. See Hand of fabric.



Those components, qualities, attributes, dimensions, properties or impressions which make the sensation of touching See Fabric construction See Fabric construction and Count in fabric and Count in fabric Individuals who use Ultimate consumer: Individuals who use goods and services for goods and services for their own satisfaction. their own satisfaction. Institutional consumer: Also called Industrial and Commercial consumer. Individuals who use goods and services for their businesses to produce other goods or to operate public institutions



176 Word CONSUMER CARE



Category processes, operations



CONSUMER TEXTILE PRODUCT



garments, made-ups, assemblies



CONSUMER’S RISK



general



CONTINUOUS ELEMENT CONTINUOUS ELEMENT ZIPPER



accessories



CONTINUOUS FILAMENT YARN



accessories



CONTINUOUS PROCESS



fibers, filaments, yarns processes, operations



CONTINUOUS VAT DYEING



processes, operations



CONTINUOUS YARN FELTING



processes, operations



CONTOUR STITCHING



processes, operations



CONTRACTION



fabrics



CONTRACTION IN



fabrics



Short description Description cleaning and In consumer textile products, cleaning and maintenance maintenance procedures as customarily procedures as undertaken by the ultimate user customarily undertaken by the ultimate user A textile product A textile product intended to satisfy human intended to satisfy wants and needs. human wants and needs. In acceptance sampling, the probability of In acceptance accepting a lot when the process average is sampling, the at the limiting quality level probability of accepting a lot In zippers, a configured In zippers, a configured element formed element continuously along a length of monofilament. A zipper consisting of A zipper consisting of two continuously two continuously formed elements each attached to one of the formed elements opposing edges of two tapes, which are engaged and disengaged by the movement of a slider. A yarn made of one or A yarn made of one or more filaments that more filaments extend substantially throughout the length of the yarn. A process in which A process in which materials passes in materials passes in sequence through a series of stages to give a sequence through a continuous output of processed material. This series of stages process provides a distinct saving in time, labour and expense and the results are usually of better quality. See also Batchwise process. A process of applying A process of applying shades of vat dyes in shades of vat dyes in one continuous operation that includes: pad dry - reduce - oxidise - soap - dry, all at good one continuous speed. operation A process whereby slivers, rovings, A process whereby slubbings, or yarns are felted on a continuous slivers, rovings, slubbings, or yarns are basis. This is achieved by passing wool-rich felted on a continuous material through a unit where it is agitated in an aqueous medium where felting takes basis. place. The process is used to produce a yarn, or to consolidate a spun yarn. Automatic sewing along Automatic sewing along or near the edge of a or near the edge of a garment part. The shape may be garment part. predetermined or edge following. See both Yarn take-up See both Yarn take-up and Twist take-up. and Twist take-up. The reduction in fabric The reduction in fabric width or length during



177 Word WEAVING CONTROL UNDERCOVER GARMENT CONVENTIONAL BLANKET CONVENTIONAL BUNDLE SYSTEM



Category garments, made-ups, assemblies fabrics



Short description width or length A garment having a known history,



See under Blanket



Description weaving or subsequent processes. A garment having a known history, the performance of which in a specific end-use has been established previously, and which is used as a standard of comparison. See under Blanket



processes, A production system in A production system in which bundles pass operations which bundles pass from storage to an operator and then back to from storage to an storage for allocation to the next operation. operator See also Progressive bundle system. CONVERTED FABRICS fabrics Fabrics that have been Fabrics that have been finished in someway, finished in someway e.g. bleached, dyed, printed, as distinguished from grey goods CONVERTING processes, A general term applied A general term applied to finishing of grey operations to finishing of grey goods in any way, e.g. bleaching, dyeing, and goods in any way printing. Also occasionally used to describe the processing of yarn as in dyeing, sizing, gassing, merceris-ing, winding, etc. CONVEYOR SYSTEM processes, A type of straight-line A type of straight-line system in which operations system operators are positioned at the side of a conveyor, which is used to transport the garment parts. COOLING CYLINDER apparatus, An open cylinder or An open cylinder or alternatively a closed equipage, alternatively a closed cylinder filled with cold water, over which hot tools cylinder filled with cold fabric is passed to accelerate cooling. water COP accessories, A small tube, without 1. A small tube, without flanges, on to which fibers, flanges, on to which thread, usually sewing thread, is wound. filaments, thread, usually sewing 2. A small package of thread, usually sewing yarns thread, is wound. thread, wound on a cop. 3. A form of yarn package spun on a mule spindle COP-END EFFECT defects The gradual narrowing The gradual narrowing of the fabric as the of the fabric as the pirn pirn empties during weaving with a single empties during weaving shuttle, forming the characteristic dog-legged with a single shuttle selvedge. This is caused by the increase in yarn tension that occurs when unwinding from the base of the pirn. COPOLYMER ³ A polymer formed from A polymer formed from two or more starting two or more starting monomers monomers COPPERED BLOCK apparatus, A printing block A printing block made by hammering-in equipage, copper or brass strips of varying section tools COPPERING processes, The art of making The art of making coppered blocks used in



178 Word



CORAH SILK



CORAL STITCH



CORD



CORD CARPET



CORD DU ROI CORD TWIST



CORDAGE



CORDED SELVEDGE CORDON YARN



CORDOVAN



CORDUROY



Category operations



Short description Description coppered blocks used printing. in printing. fabrics An Indian, lightweight, An Indian, lightweight, washable silk dress washable silk dress goods of natural, creamy white colour. goods seams, A blanket-stitch worked A blanket-stitch worked backward with a stitches backward with a heavy heavy thread. It is embroidered closely and is thread. used as an outline or filling stitch. A term applied loosely 1. IN TEXTILES. A term applied loosely to a fibers, to a variety of textile variety of textile strands including, ‘cabled filaments, strands yarns’, ‘plied yarns’, and structures made by yarns, braiding knitting or weaving. accessories See also Cabled yarn, and Plied yarn. 2. IN ZIPPERS. A strand of multiple yarns for use in forming a bead. garments, A low-level loop-pile A low-level loop-pile carpet with pronounced made-ups, carpet rows of loops in the weft direction. assemblies fabrics See Corduroy. See Corduroy. fibers, The amount of twist in The amount of twist in a cord made from two filaments, a cord or more single or plied yarns. yarns accessories Any product, regardless Any product, regardless of size, made by of size, made by twisting or braiding textile yarns, which is twisting or braiding generally round in cross section and capable textile yarns of sustaining loads. defects See Loopy selvedge. See Loopy selvedge. fibers, A two-ply union yarn A two-ply union yarn made from a single filaments, cotton yarn and a single worsted or woollen yarns yarn. fabrics Heavy leather from Heavy leather from horsehide and is the most horsehide common leather used for coats, jackets, boots and shoes fabrics Probably the name Probably the name derived from the French derived from the ‘cord du roi’ meaning ‘King’s cord’. Weft-pile French ‘cord du roi’ fabric, traditionally made from strong cotton meaning ‘King’s cord’ yarn, featuring pile rib cords running its length. It is made with three sets of yarns employing a special structure combined with a cutting process. The cut fibres form the surface. During weaving, extra yarns float in lengthwise rows across the ground weave, which are then cut. The cut pile fibres forms the surface, the binding points of the pile wefts being so arranged that once the pile has been cut, fibres form a surface of wales



179 Word



Category



Short description



CORE



fibers, filaments, yarns



The central portion of a gimp, cord or rope



CORE SAMPLING



CORE YARN



CORE-SHEATH BICOMPONENT CORE-SPUN YARN



CORED BRAID



processes, A method of taking operations representative samples from bales or packs of textile fibres fibers, The internal member of filaments, a core-spun yarns



fibers, filaments, yarns fibers, filaments, yarns accessories



See under Bicomponent fibres. A compound structure consisting of a readily separable filament core In rope, a hollow braid construction, plain or twill, the centre of which is filled with yarns, which are not braided.



Description (rounded cords or ribs) which usually run in the warp direction. The ground fabric is usually plain weave or twill, and the final finishing lays the pile at a slight slant, in one direction. The ribs may be even or they may be ‘high-low’, i.e. wide, high ribs alternating with smaller low ones. Originally produced as a very hard wearing fabric for working trousers and breeches, but is now produced in many forms for dress and general clothing use, in a wide variety of cord styles and sizes. Dress styles are produced in rayon as well as cotton and elaborate cord produced in traditional designs, e.g. Aran. The fabric resembles crochet but is made on a knitting machine, which works on the same principle as Rashel machines; however, they are narrower and the needles are generally horizontal. Mainly made from acrylic, but may be made from any man-made fibre. Used for sweaters, shirts, dresses, braids, trims and scarves. The central portion of a gimp, cord or rope, which may consist of parallel, twisted, cabled or knitted strands but which is not combined structurally with the gimp, cord or rope. A method of taking representative samples from bales or packs of textile fibres obtained by inserting a coring tube driven by hand or machine into each package. 1. The internal member of a core-spun, covered, or fancy yarn, readily separable from the covering fibres or yarn. 2. A term sometimes used instead of the preferred term Core-spun yarn. See also Circle twisted. See under Bicomponent fibres.



A compound structure consisting of a readily separable filament core surrounded by staple fibre sheath and suitable for use as a yarn. In rope, a hollow braid construction, plain or twill, the centre of which is filled with yarns, which are not braided.



180 Word COREDON



Category fabrics



Short description Description A 2/1 twill woollen A 2/1 twill woollen dress fabric produced with dress fabric fine warp and coarse weft. CORKSCREW REPP fabrics A plain woven fabric A plain woven fabric with a fine warp and a with a fine warp and a thick spiral weft, which gives an irregular thick spiral weft appearance to the rib lines. See also Repp CORKSCREW WEAVE fabrics A warp-faced fabric A warp-faced fabric produced in a steep twill produced in a steep weave. twill weave. CORKSCREW YARN fibers, Sometimes also called Sometimes also called Spiral yarn. A type of filaments, Spiral yarn. A type of plied fancy yarn characterised by its smooth spiralling of one component around the other. yarns plied fancy yarn It may be produced in many ways: (a) by characterised by its smooth spiralling of one imparting uneven tension to component yarns during twisting of plied yarn or cord, the component around the component strands with less tension form other spirals around those with greater tension. (b) by plying two single ends or groups of ends of equal length containing S and Z twists, respectively, and (c) by plying two ends of equal length, one coarser than the other. COROA fibers, See Caroa. See Caroa. filaments, yarns A woven trimming, about 12.5 mm wide, CORONATION GIMP accessories A woven trimming, consisting of a continuous-filament ground about 12.5 mm wide, warp with plain weave and a gimp cord weft. consisting of a continuous-filament Down each side, two 2-ply cords of opposing twist are woven three up one down to ground warp with plain weave and a gimp cord produce a ‘grain of wheat effect’. The centre of the fabric has a continuous-filament figure weft. warp, the weave of which mocks the elbowing cords CORONIZING processes, A finishing treatment on A finishing treatment on glass fibre and operations glass fibre and fabrics fabrics used for textile applications. It used for textile increases the resistance to abrasion, water applications. repellency, crease resistance and flexibility of glass fibre and fabrics and improves the handle to an impressive degree. It also makes possible the effective coloration of glass material. CORTEX fibers, The inner portion of The inner portion of most of the animal hair filaments, most of the animal hair fibres. It consists of spindle-shaped yarns fibres elongated cells. COTTED WOOL fibers, Wool from a fleece that Wool from a fleece that is felted or matted filaments, is felted or matted together so that it will not tear apart freely yarns together when handled. COTTON BROADCLOTH fabrics A lightweight fabric of A lightweight fabric of poplin type, used



181 Word



Category



Short description poplin type



COTTON CLASSING



fibers, filaments, yarns



Also called Cotton grading.



COTTON COUNT



fibers, The number of 840 filaments, yard lengths of yarn per yarns pound



COTTON CRÊPE



fabrics



COTTON FABRIC



fabrics



COTTON FIBRE



Lightweight, crinkled fabric. A wide variety of fabric made from the soft, absorbent cotton fibres.



fibers, The seed hair of a wide filaments, variety of plants of the yarns gossypium family.



Description extensively for shirting, especially on the North American continent. Also called Cotton grading. Method of evaluating raw cotton by systematically recognising and identifying similarity in quality according to standard, accepted scales of measurement and by the use of consistent terms of description. Principal factors are grade, staple and character. Classing makes marketing and selection for manufacturing simpler and more accurate. The number of 840 yard lengths of yarn per pound; an indirect yarn numbering system generally used for yarns spun on the cotton system Lightweight, crinkled fabric. Washable. Used for dresses, blouses, and children’s clothes. A wide variety of fabric made from the soft, absorbent cotton fibres. Cotton fabrics are easily laundered and are used for all types of clothing. See also Cotton fibre The seed hair of a wide variety of plants of the gossypium family. Sometimes referred to as the King of fibres. The most versatile and widely used textile fibre, possessing more ideal properties than any other fibre. Some of the more widely used commercial cotton qualities include: Sea Island cotton, Egyptian cotton, American cotton, Indian cotton and Chinese cotton. Cotton is classified chiefly by two methods, (a) by the mean length of its fibres i.e. its staple, and (b) by grade or degree of quality. See Cotton staple classes and Cotton quality grades. Each cotton fibre is a single cell. Fabrics made from cotton are very much valued because they are cool, absorbent and comfortable. They have fairly firm handle and have the ability to withstand re-peated washings, vigorous rubbing and high temperatures. Further they are resistant to insects and well reputed for their long and useful life. On the other hand, they are flammable (especially if napped), gradually weaken on exposure to sun-light, and develop mildew under suitable conditions, soil easily, crease



182 Word



Category



COTTON FLOUNCING



fabrics



COTTON FRIEZE COTTON GRADING



Short description



Plain weave, fine cotton fabrics, embroidered with cotton or viscose thread, fabrics See under Frieze processes, Process of describing operations qualities of cotton fibres other than staple length.



COTTON GRASS



fibers, filaments, yarns



Fibre of eriophorum augustifolium or eriophorum laitfolium.



COTTON JERSEY



fabrics



Knitted cotton fabric, plain or printed



COTTON LAP



processes, operations



COTTON LINTERS



fibers, filaments, yarns fibers, filaments, yarns



COTTON MATURITY



Description readily and tear fairly easily because of their low stretch and elasticity. Plain weave, fine cotton fabrics, embroidered with cotton or viscose thread, with a scalloped or flounced edge down one side. Creases easily. See under Frieze Process of describing qualities of cotton fibres other than staple length. Grade is composed of the factors like, colour, foreign matter, and preparation. See also Cotton classing. Fibre of eriophorum augustifolium or eriophorum laitfolium. Obtained from the fruit of the reed mace and used as wadding for upholstery, etc. Knitted cotton fabric, plain or printed. Cool and lightweight, very absorbent and comfortable. Used for casual and sports wear, summer dresses and blouses, children’s clothes In warp-knitting, a lapping movement made on a Milanese machine in which the yarn traverses one wale per course. See also Milanese warp-knitting machine Cotton fibres that are too short for yarn or fabric manufacturing.



In warp-knitting, a lapping movement made on a Milanese machine Cotton fibres that are too short for yarn or fabric manufacturing. A factor in determining A factor in determining the character of the character of cotton, cotton, related to the thickness of the fibre related to the thickness wall. It depends upon the degree to which the of the fibre wall. lumen has been obliterated by the cellulose constituting the walls. It may also be referred to as ‘ripeness’. The following terms are used in relation to cotton maturity: Mature fibre: Fibre where a high degree of wall thickening has taken place during cotton growth. Immature fibre: Fibre where little wall thickening has taken place during cotton growth. Normal fibre: Fibre whose wall has developed to greater than a specified amount. Thin-walled fibre: Fibre, which does not fall into either the normal or dead categories. Dead fibre: An extreme form of immature fibre.



183 Word COTTON MODAL COTTON MOUSSELINE COTTON QUALITY GRADES



COTTON RATINE



COTTON REGATTA



COTTON SATIN



COTTON SHANTUNG



COTTON STAPLE CLASSES



Category Short description Description fabrics See Cotton viscose. See Cotton viscose. fabrics See under Mousseline. See under Mousseline. Cotton is classified chiefly by two methods, fibers, Cotton is classified filaments, chiefly by two methods, (a) by the mean length of its fibres i.e. its yarns (a) by the mean length staple, and (b) by grade or degree of quality. Cotton quality grades are: of its fibres i.e. its Middling Fair staple, and (b) by grade Strict Good Middling. or degree of quality. Good Middling. Strict Middling. Middling (all grades are compared with this type) Strict Low Middling. Low Middling. Strict Good Ordinary. Good Ordinary. See also Cotton staple classes. fabrics Loosely woven plainLoosely woven plain-weave fabric with a weave fabric with a rough surface produced by twisting heavy rough surface and fine cotton yarns at various tensions. Usually dyed and polished for use as a furnishing fabric, though it is too loosely woven for use as chair covers. Plain-weave cotton fabric similar in fabrics Plain-weave cotton appearance to denim, but softer and with a fabric similar in closer weave. Produced in denim colours, appearance to denim, blue, grey, pink, etc., but definitely a dress but softer and with a weight fabric. Used for crisp topstitched closer weave dresses, unlined jackets, and shorts. fabrics A soft fabric with a A soft fabric with a sheen on the right side sheen on the right side made of cotton yarn in satin weave. made of cotton yarn in Produced in various weights and usually satin weave. printed. A dress fabric, but also a very popular curtain fabric. Suitable for most styles of dress. fabrics Plain weave cotton Plain weave cotton fabric made from irregular fabric made from cotton yarns. The nubs or slubs are soft and irregular cotton yarns. are weak areas. Used mainly for curtains and bedspreads. Cotton is classified chiefly by two methods, fibers, Cotton is classified filaments, chiefly by two methods, (a) by the mean length of its fibres i.e. its yarns (a) by the mean length ‘staple’, and (b) by grade or degree of quality. Staple classes are: of its fibres i.e. its Very short staple: Not more than 3/4 inch in ‘staple’, and (b) by length. Coarse in texture. Used mainly as grade or degree of batting and wadding. quality. Short staple: Between 13/16 and 15/16 of an



184 Word



COTTON SYSTEM



COTTON TREES



COTTON VELVET



COTTON VISCOSE



COTTON WASTE



COTTON WAX



COTTON WOOL



COTTON-SPUN



COUNT IN FABRIC



COUNT IN KNITTED FABRIC



Category



Short description



Description inch. Used for yarns meant for cheaper fabrics. Medium staple: Between 15/16 and 11/8 inches. Ordinary long staple: Between 11/8 and 13/8 inches. Extra long staple: 13/8 to 21/2 inches long. See also Cotton quality grades. processes, A spinning system A spinning system adapted to fibres less than operations adapted to fibres less 2.5 in. (65 mm) in length than 2.5 in. (65 mm) in length fibers, Bombax, Ceiba and Bombax, Ceiba and Eriodendron are trees, filaments, Eriodendron which produce a soft fibre resembling cotton. yarns fabrics Short pile cotton fabric Short pile cotton fabric that is woven double; that is woven double with the additional warp interlacing between the two base fabrics. The pile is afterwards cut and the fabrics are separated. Not as luxurious as other velvets but hardwearing, suitable for trousers for instance. fabrics May also be labelled May also be labelled ‘Cotton modal’. Soft ‘Cotton modal’. Soft warm lightweight fabrics. May be knitted or warm lightweight woven; may also be slightly brushed on one fabrics. side. Wide variety of plain and printed fabrics. Used for tops, tee shirts, casual dresses, cardigan style jackets. fibers, Material removed from Material removed from seed cotton, ginned filaments, seed cotton, ginned lint, lint, or stock in process by any cleaning or yarns or stock in process processing machinery and usually consisting of undesirable fibres or a mixture of cotton fibres with foreign matter. ³ A natural wax-like A natural wax-like substance present in small substance present in quantities on the raw cotton fibre, making it small quantities water-resistant. It is removed by scouring garments, A fibrous product used A fibrous product used for medical or made-ups, for medical or cosmetic cosmetic purposes, which is made from assemblies purposes cotton and/or viscose. fibers, A term applied to staple A term applied to staple yarn produced on filaments, yarn produced on machinery of the originally developed type for yarns machinery processing cotton into yarn. fabrics See Count in woven See Count in woven fabric and Count in fabric and Count in knitted fabric knitted fabric fabrics The number (counted The number (counted units) of wale loops units) of wale loops and and course loops per inch as counted while course loops per inch the fabric is held under zero tension, and is



185 Word



Category



Short description



COUNT IN WOVEN FABRIC



fabrics



A measure of the end and pick densities in a fabric



COUNT OF REED



fabrics



The number of dents per unit width of reed.



COUNT OF YARN



COUNT STRENGTH PRODUCT COUNTING GLASS



COUPURE



COURSE



COURSE DENSITY



COURSE LENGTH



fibers, Also called Yarn count, filaments, Yarn number, Yarn yarns linear density and Grist.



general



Description free of folds and wrinkles A measure of the end and pick densities in a fabric. The numbers of warp yarns and weft yarns per inch as counted while the fabric is held under zero tension, and is free of folds and wrinkles. The number of dents per unit width of reed. There have been many units in common use; the recom-mended unit is dents/cm. Also called Yarn count, Yarn number, Yarn linear density and Grist. Methods of variously expressing the mass per unit length per unit mass of a yarn. Expressed in simple terms, it is, a number indicating the size and thickness of a yarn, i.e. whether it is a coarse or fine yarn. See also Direct yarn numbering system and Indirect yarn numbering system. (Compare Titre number.) See Lea count-strength product



See Lea count-strength product apparatus, Also called Linen Also called Linen tester, Linen prover, Pick equipage, tester, Linen prover, counter, Pick glass, Thread counter. A tools Pick counter, Pick mounted magnifying glass for counting yarns glass, Thread counter. and examining weaves. The base of the mount generally contains a unit of measurement having an aperture one centimetre square, one inch square or cross shaped with various dimensions, convenient for counting ends and picks, or courses and wales in a fabric. Some models are available in a folding frame type fabrics French for ‘cut’. French for ‘cut’. The fabric is cashmere, cut so that lines cut through show the twill in the lengthwise direction of the cloth. fabrics In knitted fabrics, a row In knitted fabrics, a row of loops essentially formed from one or very few threads running of loops essentially from side to side of a weft knitted fabric. In formed from one or machine knitting it is the product of one very few threads knitting cycle running from side to side of a weft knitted fabric. fabrics In knitted fabrics, the In knitted fabrics, the number of visible loops number of visible loops per unit length measured along a wale; per unit length usually expressed as courses per cm fabrics The length of yarn in The length of yarn in one whole course of a one whole course of a fabric with selvedges, or one whole fabric with selvedges circumference of a circular fabric. It may be



186 Word



Category



COURTELLE



fabrics



COUTIL



fabrics



COUTILLE COVER



fabrics fabrics, seams, stitches,



COVER FACTOR



fabrics



COVERALL



garments, made-ups, assemblies fibers, filaments, yarns



COVERED YARN



COVERING



processes, operations



COVERING STITCHES



seams,



Short description



Description expressed as the length of yarn in a given number of loops, usually 100, or multiples or factors of 100. Trade name for an Trade name for an acrylic fibre. Used alone acrylic fibre. for clothes, carpets and blankets. It blends well with other fibres and mixtures. Used for all types of clothing and furnishing fabrics. Crease-resistant, strong, washable, unaffected by moths and mildew. See also Acrylic. Strong cotton fabric Strong cotton fabric made in herringbone made in herringbone weave or reverse-twist twill weave. A close weave or reverse-twist textured cloth, sometimes patterned. Used for twill weave. corsetry, tropical suiting and sometimes as a strong lining fabric. Also called Coutille. See Coutil. See Coutil. A term given to woven 1. IN FABRICS. A term given to woven fabrics to indicate the fabrics to indicate the even appearance of the even appearance of the fabric. See also Cover factor. fabric. 2. IN SEAMS. The extent to which an overedge seam covers up the raw cut edge of a fabric or fabrics. 3. IN YARNS. The outside layer of fibres that form the surface of a yarn. 1. IN WEAVING. A measure of the A measure of the percentage area covered by one or more percentage area threads. May be related to weft, warp or covered by one or more woven fabric. threads. 2. IN KNITTING. See Tightness factor. A one piece type of A one piece type of legged workwear often legged workwear capable of being fastened at wrists and ankles. A compound structure A compound structure consisting of a readily separable core surrounded by a wrap or consisting of a readily cover formed by one or more spun or filament separable core yarns. surrounded by a wrap or cover formed by one A yarn made by feeding one yarn under a controlled degree of tension through the axis or more spun or or axes of one or more revolving spindles filament yarns. carrying the other (wrapping) yarn(s). A printing operation in which, a roller A printing operation in engraved with a delicate pattern, is used for which, a roller over-printing an existing print to obtain a engraved with a distinct subdued patterned ground. delicate pattern, is used for over-printing an existing print Types of chain stitch Types of chain stitch produced on twin or



187 Word



Category stitches



COVERSTOCK



fabrics



COVERT



fabrics



COWHIDE



fabrics



CRABBING



processes, operations



CRACK MARK



defects



CRAM



processes, operations



CRAMPING



processes, operations fabrics fabrics



CRAPE CRASH



Short description Description produced on twin or multi-needle machines, used for covering multi-needle machines seams. A permeable fabric A permeable fabric used in hygiene products used in hygiene to cover and contain an absorbent medium. products Lightweight to medium Lightweight to medium weight twill fabric, for weight twill fabric, for men’s overcoating in wool or worsted. A men’s overcoating in tightly woven fabric with a smooth finish, wool or worsted traditionally made with two shades of same colour, say, a medium and light brown, which produce a mottled beige effect. Covert cloth is also made in cotton, viscose and acetate with the characteristic speckled effect, which is lighter in weight than the overcoating and is used for suits and raincoats Leather from cowhide Leather from cowhide occasionally used for ready-made clothes. A wool finishing process to prevent creases A wool finishing or other forms of uneven shrinkage in later process to prevent creases or other forms stages of finishing. The fabric is treated with boiling water to set or fix the yarns of uneven shrinkage in permanently later stages of finishing. Fabric defect. Also 1. Fabric defect. Also called Broken weave, called Broken weave, Open place, Thin spot, Shier. A narrow Open place, Thin spot, streak, running parallel with the warp or weft Shier threads, characterised mainly by the existence of a space between two adjacent threads. This is caused usually by mechanical defects in the loom, such as a loose crank-arm or crankshaft bearing, banging-off a bent reed wire, etc. 2. Fabric defect. In bonded, fused, or laminated fabrics, a sharp break or crease in the surface con-tour of either the face fabric or the backing fabric that becomes evident when the bonded, fused, or laminated composite is rolled, bent, draped, or folded In weaving, to place In weaving, to place more than the normal more than the normal number of warp ends in one dent of the reed. number of warp ends in The usual purpose is to give a raised or fancy one dent of the reed effect. With the same object it may also be done in the weft, to insert more picks per unit length for a period. A final pressing without A final pressing without heat given in finishing heat of woollen and worsted goods. See Crêpe See Crêpe Usually linen, in plain Usually linen, in plain weave or twill, or



188 Word



Category



CRASH TOWEL



garments, made-ups, assemblies fibers, filaments, yarns general



CRAUA



CRE CREASE



CREASE MARK



Short description Description weave or twill, or variations on twill, with a rough texture due to variations on twill, with thick uneven yarns used in the weft. a rough texture due to Traditionally, it is creamy beige. Mainly used thick uneven yarns for towels, curtains and embroidery. used in the weft. Mercerised brown cotton or occasionally wool, may be used for the warp in place of linen. See under Towel. See under Towel.



See Caroa



See Constant Rate of extension. processes, A fold added operations, deliberately to a fabric defects by pressing



defects



CREASE RECOVERY general CREASE RESIST FINISH processes, operations CREASE RESISTANCE



general



CREASE RETENTION



fabrics, processes, operations



CREASE STREAK



defects



See Caroa



See Constant Rate of extension.



1. A fold added deliberately to a fabric by pressing, to give desirable appearance features such as fashion rightness, usefulness and minimum care. Should not be confused with wrinkle. See also Pleating. 2. Fabric defect evidenced by a break, line, or mark generally caused by a sharp fold. Also called Mill wrinkle. Also called Wrinkle Also called Wrinkle mark. Fabric defect, mark usually major for fashion outerwear, minor for underwear. Defect evidenced by a break, line, or mark in a fabric generally caused by a sharp fold. A visible deformation left in a fabric after a crease has been incompletely removed during fabric processing. The crease mark is where creases can be caused by fabric folds in the finishing process. On napped fabric the final pressing may not be able to restore the fabric to original condition. Often discoloration in the area is a problem. See Wrinkle recovery. See Wrinkle recovery. A finishing process, A finishing process, mainly for cellulose mainly for cellulose fabrics, that gives increased recovery from fabrics creasing. See preferred term See preferred term Wrinkle resistance. Wrinkle resistance. 1. That property of a fabric, which enables it That property of a to maintain an inserted crease. fabric, which enables it to maintain an inserted 2. The process of comparing and quantifying the visual impression of an inserted crease crease. against a set of reference standards. Fabric defect in tubular Fabric defect in tubular knits, usually major



189 Word



Category



CREEL



apparatus, equipage, tools



CREELING



processes, operations processes, operations fabrics



CREEP CRÊPE



Short description Description knits, usually major for for fashion outerwear, minor for underwear. A fashion outerwear, dyed-in mark of a crease, usually along the minor for underwear. length direction, of a lighter colour within the crease area and often with edges darker than the adjacent normal fabric. The result of creased fabric passing through squeeze rollers in the dyeing process. A structure for mounting supply packages in A structure for textile processing. Yarn withdrawal may be mounting supply either over-end from stationary packages, or packages in textile unrolling from revolving packages. Usually processing. yarn-control, during withdrawal from the package, is provided. The operation of filling The operation of filling or refilling a creel. or refilling a creel. See Delayed See Delayed deformation. deformation. Term refers to any type Term refers to any type or weight of fabric made with crêpe yarns either twisted or or weight of fabric made with crêpe yarns chemically crinkled. A fabric characterised by a crinkled or puckered surface. Fairly crisp either twisted or and with a springy handle. The crêpe effect chemically crinkled. may be produced in a variety of ways; by the use of high-twist S and Z yarns, by the use of a particular construction, or by chemical or thrermal treatment to provide differential shrinkage in the finished fabric. Crêpes are made from any fibre; natural, synthetic or mixtures and blends. The main types of crêpe fabrics are: Weft-knitted crêpe: A double-faced warpknitted fabric, which contains more rows of cleared stitches per unit of length on one side than the other. Warp-knitted crêpe: An irregular surfaced fabric either in plain or rib-based usually constructed from knit-float or knit-tuck loops introduced in a predetermined random order. Woven crêpe: May be produced by the use of hard twisted ‘S’ and ‘Z’ direction yarns which cause surface distortion of fabric during finishing (e.g. Crêpe de Chine, Crêpon, Marocain, Georgette, Crêpe Suzette) or by the use of particularly constructed crêpe weave-types which break up the fabric surface into a random series of interlacings with no visible repeat (e.g. Crêpe, Oatmeal crêpe and Moss crêpe).



190 Word



CRÊPE CHARMEUSE



CRÊPE CORD



CRÊPE DE CHINE



Category



Short description



Description The most common form of crêpe fabric is produced by using hard-twist weft and ordinary warp and considerable width shrinkage takes place during finishing. It may be necessary to hold the fabric out in width to prevent in contracting too much, and it can be temporarily set in this position by drying it while under tension. Crêpe fabrics of this type are always tested for sensitivity before use so that heat and moisture treatments can be controlled or even entirely eliminated. Embossed crêpe: A fabric with a pebbled or crinkled surface. The crêpe pattern is imparted by means of passing the fabric between heated engraved-embossing rollers, either into a softened ther-moplastic fabric or in combination with resin. The permanence of the effect is governed by the fibre used and the finish accompanying the embossing process. A type of crêpe effect is achieved by printing of patterns with some chemical pastes, which cause puckering of the treated parts in the fabric. Crêpe fabrics made from synthetic fibres, either by embossing or by the use of different yarns, are adequately heat-set in treatment, so that if the normal heat-sensitivity precautions in respect of thermoplastic fibres are observed, unwanted shrinkage rarely occurs. Similarly, resin-embossed vis-cose rayon fabrics too are not troublesome in this respect. The crêpe technique is widely used as a variation of ordinary fabric types. See also Crêpe weave. Rich, dull-lustred smooth silk crêpe, which is fabrics Rich, dull-lustred fairly stiff, but clings and drapes well. Now smooth silk crêpe, which is fairly stiff, but usually in polyester. Used for eveningwear clings and drapes well accessories Also called Moss cord. Also called Moss cord. A cord comprising two to four strands, each in turn comprising a core covered by several fine threads in an acute helix, over-wrapped in the opposite direction by a strong thread, giving a soft crêpe or special effect. Two or more strands are laid together to complete the cord. fabrics Pure, fine, very soft, 1. Pure, fine, very soft, luxurious silk crêpe



191 Word



Category



CRÊPE EMBOSSING CRÊPE GEORGETTE



processes, operations fabrics



CRÊPE MAROCAIN



fabrics



CRÊPE ROMAIN



fabrics



CRÊPE SUZETTE CRÊPE TWIST



fabrics fibers, filaments, yarns fabrics



CRÊPE WEAVE



CRÊPE YARN



fibers, filaments, yarns



Short description luxurious silk crêpe fabric, originally from China.



Description fabric, originally from China. Plain weave, with a softly twisted filament warp and a very highly twisted filament weft; alternate pairs of weft yarns in ‘S’ and ‘Z’ twist. During the finishing process the weft yarns kink and crinkle on the fabric. Fairly crisp, matt finish fabric with very good draping properties - due to the softly twisted warp. May be in plain colours or printed. It is expensive. Used for blouses, shirts, dresses, and lingerie. It was widely used for lingerie before the widespread use of nylon locknit for this purpose. A cheaper form of crêpe de chine is made from viscose rayon weft and cellulose acetate warp, which is used for blouses and linings. 2. Crêpe fabrics made from synthetic fibres can be almost indistinguishable from silk, and although not strictly correct, these are usually labelled Polyester crêpe de Chine, acetate/nylon crêpe de Chine’, viscose crêpe de Chine’, etc See Embossed crêpe See Embossed crêpe Sheer, dull-textured Sheer, dull-textured fabric like georgette but fabric like georgette but with a crêpe surface. May be polyester, with a crêpe surface. cotton, viscose or silk. Used for blouses and dresses Heavier type, similar to Heavier type, similar to Canton crêpe. Fibres Canton crêpe. include polyamide, polyester, silk. Used for evening and bridal wear. Heavy, semi-sheer Heavy, semi-sheer crêpe in 2/1 basket weave in a dull finish rayon. Used for evening and crêpe in 2/1 basket bridal wear. weave in a dull finish rayon. See Crêpon georgette See Crêpon georgette Yarn with high twist Yarn with high twist used to obtain puckering or crinkling by shrinkage, corded or other effects. A weave having a A weave having a random distribution of random distribution of floats so as to produce an ‘all-over’ effect in floats the fabric to disguise the repeat. A highly twisted yarn 1. A highly twisted yarn, which may be used in the production of crêpe fabrics. 2. A balanced hand-knitting yarn with a plaited appearance produced by twisting together 3 or 4 two-fold yarns normally using



192 Word



Category



CRÊPE, WOVEN CRÊPE-BACK SATIN



fabrics fabrics



CRÊPING



CRÊPON



Short description



See Woven crêpe. Satin weave fabric, with crêpe weft yarns, which can be used with either side as the right side processes, A wet treatment that operations allows the relaxation of the strain of highly twisted crêpe yarns in fabric fabrics Crinkled fabric, often cotton, but it may contain some polyester or viscose.



CRÊPON GEORGETTE



fabrics



Also called Crêpe Suzette.



CRETONNE



fabrics



Printed or plain cotton fabric, woven with a fine cotton warp and a thick weft spun from waste cotton



CRICKETING



fabrics



CRIMP



fibers, filaments, yarns, accessories



A term for fine, twilled flannel dress fabric The waviness of a fibre



Description ZSZ twists See Woven crêpe. Satin weave fabric, with crêpe weft yarns, which can be used with either side as the right side. Yarns are silk or polyester. Used for eveningwear, wedding-dresses, etc. A wet treatment that allows the relaxation of the strain of highly twisted crêpe yarns in fabric and so produces a characteristic crêpe effect. Sometimes the effect is achieved also by chemical treatment. Crinkled fabric, often cotton, but it may contain some polyester or viscose. Heavy crêpe effect, which usually shows in the form of deep lengthways random crinkles, giving a tree-bark effect. This type of fabric was originally produced by a special weave structure using high-shrinkage yarns - similar to matelassé but not as bold in effect. Usually made from chemically crimped yarns, not from crêpe yarns. They are soft and absorbent and comfortable in wear because it ‘gives’. Used for nightwear, blouses, softly gathered summer dresses and men’s casual shirts. Fabrics are now produced by emboss techniques in cheaper crêpon styles Also called Crêpe Suzette. A georgette in which all the weft yarn has the same direction of twist. Printed or plain cotton fabric, woven with a fine cotton warp and a thick weft spun from waste cotton. Weave may be plain or twill. Appearance similar to chintz but does not have a glazed treatment. Fairly inexpensive. Used for curtains, loose covers, and bedcovers. A term for fine, twilled flannel dress fabric; used for sportswear. 1. IN FIBRE. The waviness of a fibre. This fibre characteristic may be expressed numerically as the crimp frequency or as the difference between the lengths of the straightened and crimped fibre, ex-pressed as a percentage of the straightened length. 2. IN YARN. The waviness or distortion of a yarn that is due to interlacing in the fabric. In



193 Word



Category



CRIMP BALANCE



fabrics



CRIMP CONTRACTION



CRIMP ENERGY



fibers, filaments, yarns general



CRIMP FACTOR



general



CRIMP FREQUENCY



general



CRIMP INTERCHANGE



processes, operations



CRIMP LATENT



fibers, filaments, yarns



CRIMP RECOVERY



fibers, filaments, yarns general



CRIMP STABILITY



Short description



Description woven fabrics, the crimp is measured by the relation between the length of the fabric sample and the corre-sponding length of yarn when it is removed therefrom and straightened under suitable tension. Crimp may be expressed numerically as: (a) percentage crimp, which is 100 divided by the fabric length and multiplied by the difference be-tween the yarn length and the fabric length, and (b) crimp ratio, which is the ratio of yarn length to the fabric length. In both methods, the fabric length is the denominator. 3. CRIMP IN ZIPPERS. In continuouselement zipper, the predetermined formation of the monofila-ment cross-section at the point where the continuous element is interlocked. A state in a fabric when A state in a fabric when the crimp in both the crimp in both warp warp and weft are equal. and weft are equal. An indicator of crimp An indicator of crimp capacity or a capacity characterisation of a yarn’s ability to contract under tension. The amount of effort The amount of effort required to uncrimp a required to uncrimp a fibre. fibre. A factor, which A factor, which expresses the length change, expresses the length caused by crimping. change, caused by crimping. The crimp level The crimp level or number of crimps per inch in yarn or tow band. The transfer of crimp The transfer of crimp from warp to weft or from warp to weft or vice versa vice versa A crimp that is potentially present in specially A crimp that is potentially present in prepared fibres or filaments and that can be developed by a specific treatment such as specially prepared thermal relaxation or tensioning and fibres or filaments subsequent relaxation. A measure of the ability A measure of the ability of a yarn to return to of a yarn its original crimped state after being subjected to tension. The ability of a textuted The ability of a textuted yarn to resist the yarn to resist the reduction of its crimp by mechanical and or reduction of its crimp thermal stress.



194 Word CRIMP TESTER



CRIMP, LATENT



Category apparatus, equipage, tools



Short description A device consisting of two clamps that can trap each end of a crimped piece of thread.



Description A device consisting of two clamps that can trap each end of a crimped piece of thread. The clamps are slid apart until a certain loading is achieved, and the length of the thread is then ascertained. The crimp tester is used in the analysis of knitted fabrics, to measure the course length and loop length. See Latent crimp



fibers, See Latent crimp filaments, yarns CRIMPED LENGTH fibers, See under Fibre length See under Fibre length filaments, yarns CRIMPED LOOP RUCHE accessories See under Ruche. See under Ruche. CRIMPED VISCOSE fibers, Modified viscose fibre. Modified viscose fibre. Viscose fibres, which FIBRE filaments, are crimped deeply and permanently during yarns manufacture so that the crimp is actually built-in. These fibres have a wool-like texture and bulky warm handling, Bulked viscose yarn woven into plain colour CRIMPED VISCOSE fabrics Bulked viscose yarn fabric of medium weight. Bulking adds TWILL woven into plain colour warmth. Fabric creases slightly. Has a soft fabric of medium feel rather like flannelette. Used for children’s weight. clothes, nightwear. 1. A thermoplastic textured yarn having CRIMPED YARN fibers, A thermoplastic filaments, textured yarn having relatively low elastic stretch usually under 20 yarns relatively low elastic % and fre-quently characterised by high sawtooth type crimp, or curl. stretch 2. A non-thermoplastic yarn having irregular crimp and relatively high elastic stretch but low power contraction A wrinkled or puckered A wrinkled or puckered effect in fabric, which CRINKLE fabrics, effect in fabric may be obtained in a number of ways, either fibers, in the construction of the cloth or in finishing. filaments, Sometimes used to describe the waviness of yarns a spinning fibre such as rayon staple. CRINKLE CRÊPE fabrics See Plissé. See Plissé. CRINOLINE fabrics A stiff and loosely A stiff and loosely woven fabric, similar to woven fabric, similar to buckram, with cotton warp and horsehair buckram, with cotton weft. May now be produced from synthetic warp and horsehair fibre and stiffened. Made usually in white, weft. grey and black. Used as an interfacing or stiffening material for hats. CRISP FINISH processes, Treatment of sheer Treatment of sheer fabrics with thermosetting operations fabrics with resins, which gives a crisp handle and thermosetting resins transparency. Employed on organdie and also on rayon and nylon sheer.



195 Word Category CRITICAL APPLICATION general VALUE



CRITICAL DEFECT CRITICAL DEFECTS IN GARMENT CRITICAL PRESSING



CRL CROA



CROCHET KNITTED FABRIC CROCHET KNITTING



CROCKING



CROCKMETER



defects defects



Short description In a low wet-pickup easy-care finishing system



Description In a low wet-pickup easy-care finishing system, the CAV is the amount of finishing liquor, which must be applied to a given fabric to avoid a non-uniform distribution of crosslinking after drying and curing. See under Defect. See under Garment defects.



See under Defect. See under Garment defects. processes, Pressing of the Pressing of the garments prior to the deferred operations garments prior to the cure process. Accurate, automatic controls deferred cure process. for steam, heat, and pressure is needed to make a neat and good-looking garment. If a crease is not good pressed flat and sharp before curing, it will not be sharp and flat after curing. If wrinkles are pressed in by mistake, they will later be cured and cannot be removed. general See Constant Rate of See Constant Rate of loading. loading. fibers, See Caroa See Caroa filaments, yarns fabrics See under Knitted See under Knitted fabrics. fabrics. processes, Fancy openwork knit in Fancy openwork knit in a variety of colours operations a variety of colours and and patterns, often produced in traditional designs, e.g. Aran. The fabric resembles patterns, often produced in traditional crochet but is made on a knitting machine, which works on the same principle as Rashel designs, e.g. Aran. machines; however, they are narrower and the needles are generally horizontal. Mainly made from acrylic, but may be made from any man-made fibre. Used for sweaters, shirts, dresses, braids, trims and scarves. See also Knitting. processes, The transfer of colour The transfer of colour from the surface of a operations, from the surface of a coloured yarn or fabric to an adjacent area of the same fabric or to another surface defects coloured yarn or fabric to an adjacent area of principally by rubbing action. If unintentional it is considered a defect. (Compare Colour the same fabric or to staining.) another surface principally by rubbing action. apparatus, Instrument for testing Instrument for testing colourfastness to equipage, colourfastness to crocking or rubbing. White cloth on a tools crocking or rubbing.. weighted projecting finger is rubbed over the surface of dyed or printed material. Amount



196 Word



Category



Short description



CROCODILE



fabrics



The skin of crocodile characterised by its square boxy markings.



CROCODOLITE



fibers, filaments, yarns



Based on its chemical nature, asbetos is classified into chysolite and crocodolite.



CROFTING



processes, operations CROOKED CLOTH defects CROPPED TERRY PILE fabrics CROPPING processes, operations



CROSS BORDER DOBBY



apparatus, equipage, tools



CROSS LAPPING



processes, operations



CROSS LAYING CROSS POCKET



fabrics garments, made-ups, assemblies



CROSS SECTION



general



CROSS STITCH



seams, stitches, defects



Also called Grassing See Wavy cloth See under Velour. Also called Shearing.



Description of colour transfer is compared with standard evaluation scales. The skin of crocodile characterised by its square boxy markings. Can be distinguished from alligator by the fact that the markings are more uneven. Difficult to tan. Very expensive and used for top quality shoes and handbags. Based on its chemical nature, asbetos is classified into chysolite and crocodolite. The chemical description of crocodolite is iron silicate. Geographical source; South Africa and Australia. Also called Grassing. Exposing linen on grass after bowking in order to bleach it. See Wavy cloth See under Velour. Also called Shearing. A dry-finishing operation used usually on all woolen and worsted goods to cut away or level the fibre pile or nap, which has previously been raised. A dobby that may be controlled by any one of two or more pattern chains for the purpose of weaving borders or hems across the fabric.



A dobby that may be controlled by any one of two or more pattern chains Also called Cross Also called Cross laying. The production of a laying. nonwoven web or batt from a fibre-web by traversing it to and fro across a conveyor moving at right angles to the direction of traverse. See Cross lapping See Cross lapping A pocket, which lies horizontally or at an A pocket, which lies horizontally or at an oblique angle from the horizontal. In trousers, oblique angle from the the pocket mouth can run from the waistband on the front to a point on the side seam. horizontal. The shape or shapes The shape or shapes which could be seen if which could be seen if the fibres, yarn or fabric were cut across their the fibres, yarn or fabric length and viewed in or under a microscope. were cut across their length 1. A hand stitch, the formation of which A hand stitch, the begins on the left and consists in passing the formation of which begins on the left and needle alternately on and off the edge slightly consists in passing the through the material and in advance of the needle alternately on last stitch. Used as a substitute for felling or for ornamentation of raw edges. and off the edge slightly



197 Word



Category



CROSS STRIPES



fabrics



CROSS-BACK WIDTH



Short description through the material and in advance of the last stitch. A trade term for stripes



Description 2. Defect. See Pinhole.



A trade term for stripes, which run in the direction of the weft. Garment-related term. See under Garment sizing system..



garments, Also called Shearing. made-ups, assemblies CROSS-BALL WARPING processes, See under Warping. See under Warping. operations CROSS-BLENDED fibers, A single yarn spun from A single yarn spun from a blend or mixture of YARN filaments, a blend or mixture of different kinds of fibres, e.g. Wool and rayon yarns different kinds of fibres, staple, cotton and acetate staple or wool and cotton staple. CROSS-CHEST WIDTH garments, Garment-related term. Garment-related term. See under Garment made-ups, sizing system. assemblies CROSS-DYE EFFECT processes, See Cross-dyeing 1. See Cross-dyeing operations, 2. Fabric defect. Variation in shade of colour defects on textile material caused by accidental mixup of fi-bres having inherently different dye affinities (or dye pick-up) between fibres. See also Dye affinity, Dye pick-up and Union dyeing CROSS-DYEING processes, A process of dyeing A process of dyeing textiles containing fibres having inherently different dye affinities (or operations textiles containing fibres having inherently dye pick-up) between fibres, to achieve a different dye affinities multicoloured effect. Also it can be a dyeing operation in which one fibre in a mixture is dyed although the others remain substantially unchanged. Modified cellulose, which has been prepared CROSS-LINKED fibers, Modified cellulose, by the formation of chemical bonds between CELLULOSE filaments, which has been the individual cellulose molecules. When yarns prepared by the cotton is cross-linked, it becomes wrinkle formation of chemical resistant and smooth drying. bonds between the individual cellulose molecules. The creation of chemical bonds between CROSS-LINKING processes, The creation of polymer molecules to form a threeoperations chemical bonds dimensional polymeric network, e.g. in a fibre between polymer molecules to form a or in a pigment binder. This generally restricts swelling and alters elastic recovery. three-dimensional polymeric network CROSS-LINKING AGENT ³ A resin or chemical that A resin or chemical that reacts with a fibre reacts with a fibre producing an indisoluble bond. When cured producing an in the cloth, it gives the fabric a memory of its



198 Word



Category



Short description indisoluble bond.



CROSS-TUCK, PLAIN, WEFT-KNITTED



fabrics



A plain weft-knitted fabric, in which the construction is based on a repeat of either two or multiples of two courses.



CROSS-TUCK, RIB, WEFT-KNITTED



fabrics



A weft-knitted 1x1 rib fabric, the construction of which is based on a repeat of either two courses or multiples of two courses.



CROSS-TUCK, WEFTKNITTED



fabrics



A generic name used to describe either plain or rib weft-knitted fabrics



CROSSBAR



fabrics



A fabric design made with cords



CROSSBRED



fibers, filaments, yarns fibers, filaments, yarns fabrics



A term applied loosely to wool, tops, yarns or fabrics See under Wool



CROSSBRED WOOL



CROSSED TWILLS



A term for the effect produced by intersecting twill weaves.



Description cured form whether shaped or flat. See Memory and Curing. A plain weft-knitted fabric, in which the construction is based on a repeat of either two or multiples of two courses. The original construction consisted of knitted loops and single-course tuck stitches arranged to give two-course tuck-stitch, where the tuck loops alternated with knitted loops within each course and between one course and another. Other constructions incorporate two or more course tuck stitches, where the tuck loops alternate with knitted loops within the course and between one course and another. Whole courses of knitted loops may be interspaced between the courses of tuck and knitted loops A weft-knitted 1x1 rib fabric, the construction of which is based on a repeat of either two courses or multiples of two courses. When the fabric is produced on a latch-needle rib machine, the needles of one bed are used to form single-or multi-course tuck stitches and knitted loops alternately, whilst the needles of the other bed knit continuously. A complete course of knitted loops may be interspaced between the courses containing tuck and knit loops A generic name used to describe either plain or rib weft-knitted fabrics, in which the construction repeats on a minimum of two courses and where tuck loops alternate with knitted loops within a course and between one course and another. A fabric design made with cords at regular intervals in both warp and weft to produce a checkerboard pattern A term applied loosely to wool, tops, yarns or fabrics produced from wools of medium quality. See under Wool



A term for the effect produced by intersecting twill weaves.



199 Word CROSSING CROSSWISE FOLD CROTCH



CROTCH HEIGHT



CROW



Category defects fabrics



fabrics



CROW WEAVE CROW’S FEET



fabrics processes, operations, defects



CROWFOOT



fabrics



CROWN



garments, made-ups, assemblies fabrics



CROZE MARKS



CRT CRUSH RESISTANCE



Description See Cobwebbing. The crease in a fabric produced by folding the cloth crosswise. See Crutch 1. See Crutch. 2. Garment-related term. See under Garment sizing system Garment-related term Garment-related term. See under Garment sizing system.



garments, made-ups, assemblies garments, made-ups, assemblies fabrics A twill weave in which the warp or weft predominates



CROW TWILL



CROWNS



Short description See Cobwebbing. The crease in a fabric



A twill weave in which the warp or weft predominates, e.g. three up and one down (warp crow) or one down and three up (weft crow). A 3/1 warp twill Also called Broken crow and Crow weave. A generally used on wool 3/1 warp twill generally used on wool and and worsted fabrics. worsted fabrics. See Crow twill See Crow twill a puckering effect 1. IN KNITTING, a puckering effect, usually in the heel or toe of circular-knitted hosiery and generally associated with the suture line. 2. FABRIC DEFECT. Fabric breaks, fine wrinkles, staining of varying degrees of intensity, size, and shape, occurring during the wet processing of fabrics. A small colour-and- 1. A small colour-and-weave effect in a fabric, weave effect in a fabric produced by a combination of a matt weave and a specific order of colouring in warp and weft (e.g. 2/2 matt weave and 4 and 4 order of colouring; 3/3 matt weave and 6 and 6 order of colouring, etc.) 2. A broken-twill weave 1-up and 3-down or 3-up and 1-down with two ends to the right and two ends to the left, commonly referred to as Four-harness satin and Broken crow. Garment-related term. Garment-related term. See under Garment sizing system



Those points on the Those points on the surface of a woven surface of a woven fabric, which protrude. fabric, which protrude. defects Crease marks Crease marks which may be produced during wet treatments of hoods or bodies, e.g. in dyeing general See Constant rate of See Constant rate of traverse. traverse. processes, Application of a finish Application of a finish on pile fabrics, such as



200 Word



CRUTCH



CRUTCHINGS



CRYSTAL YARN



CRYSTALLINE AREAS



CRYSTALLINITY



CUFF



CUP SEAMING



CUPRAMMONIUM RAYON



CUPRO FIBRE



CURING



Category Short description operations on pile fabrics, such as corduroy or velvet



Description corduroy or velvet, to improve the ability of the pile to spring back to its original shape after being subjected to crushing or pressure. garments, Also called as Crotch Also called as Crotch and Fork. In garments, made-ups, and Fork. the region between the legs at which inside assemblies leg seams are joined. fibers, Badly discoloured wool Badly discoloured wool removed from belly filaments, removed from belly areas, being of low value. yarns areas CSP v See Count strength product. fibers, A flat film acetate yarn. A flat film acetate yarn. filaments, yarns fibers, Those areas in a fibre Those areas in a fibre where the molecules filaments, where the molecules are regularly packed yarns are regularly packed fibers, The degree, to which The degree, to which fibre molecules are filaments, fibre molecules are parallel to each other, though not necessarily yarns parallel to each other, to the longitudinal fibre axis. garments, In garment, the lower In garment, the lower part of the sleeve, made-ups, part of the sleeve which at the wrist usually has a plain turned assemblies in edge. If turned up it may be described as Gauntlet cuff. seams, Joining two pieces of Joining two pieces of knitted fabric on a stitches knitted fabric on a selvedge-to-selvedge basis by means of a selvedge-to-selvedge chain stitch produced on a sewing machine in basis which the fabrics are moved forward between revolving feed cups. See Linking. fibers, Cupro fibre is described Cupro fibre is described also as filaments, also as cuprammonium cuprammonium rayon to distinguish it from yarns rayon to distinguish it viscose rayon. from viscose rayon. fibers, Official designation for Also called Cuprammonium rayon. Official designation for rayon produced by the filaments, rayon produced by the cuprammonium method. The term has now yarns cuprammonium come into widespread use throughout the method. world to denote any regenerated cellulose fibre produced by the cuprammonium process. It is in general, more expensive than other man-made cellulosic yarns. Very soft silky fibre characterised by extra fineness and strength, attractive handle, subdued lustre and good draping properties. Cupro is the most ‘silk-like’ of all cellulosic yarns. processes, Application of heat Application of heat (usually 140° C and operations (usually 140° C and above), on fabrics which have been treated above), on fabrics with resin-forming or other chemicals, or of which have been synthetic fabrics alone, to impart properties



201 Word



CURING TAPE



CURL CURLED PILE



CURLED SELVEDGE



Category



Short description treated with resinforming or other chemicals, or of synthetic fabrics alone, to impart properties such as creaseretention, waterrepellency, wrinkle resistance, dimensional stability and durable press. accessories A woven narrow fabric, usually a twill



defects garments, made-ups, assemblies defects



See Kink-in See under Pile, in carpet.



Description such as crease-retention, water-repellency, wrinkle resistance, dimensional stability and durable press. Heat treatment for several minutes is usual, but higher temperatures for short times (flash-curing) and long times at low temperatures and higher regain (moist curing) are also used. If properly cured, the fabric has qualities that are durable through many washings and dry cleanings.



A woven narrow fabric, usually a twill, used in the rubber hose industry to stabilise the dimensions of flexible tubes during hot processing. To facilitate helical wrapping, most curing tapes have a coloured central guideline. The diameter of the hose determines the width of the tape used. . See Kink-in See under Pile, in carpet.



Also called Double Also called Double selvedge, Turned-over selvedge, Turned-over edge, Folded selvedge and Rolled selvedge. edge, Folded selvedge Fabric defect. Self-descriptive. There can be and Rolled selvedge. many reasons for this defect, such as weft yarn with too much twist in it, an improperly set warp beam (or one that is not set at proper tension under weights), an uneven warp tension, a faulty or uneven weave repeat, etc. CURLED YARN fibers, Also called Loop yarn. Also called Loop yarn. A type of fancy yarn, filaments, so constructed or treated, or both, as to yarns produce a pile with a curled effect when used in a suitable fabric construction. CURLY COTTON fibers, A term used for A term used for defective cotton, the result of filaments, defective cotton ginning when too damp thus making it yarns stringy. CURTAIN MACHINE apparatus, See under Lace See under Lace machines equipage, machines tools CURTAINS garments, Hanging drape. 1. Hanging drape. made-ups, 2. In trousers, pieces of fabric, usually lining, assemblies put across the top of the undersides under the waist-band from side seam to seat seam CURVED TWILL WEAVE fabrics A class of twill weave Also called Undulating twill weaves. A class producing wavy twill of twill weave producing wavy twill lines by



202 Word



Category



CUSHION DOT



fabrics



CUT



fibers, filaments, yarns, fabrics



CUT CRIMPED RUCHE accessories CUT LISTING defects CUT MARK processes, operations



CUT PICK CUT PILE



CUT PILE FLOOR COVERING CUT RUCHE CUT SELVEDGE



CUT SHAPED STITCH GARMENT CUT STAPLE



Short description Description lines by arrangements arrangements of the steep and/or reclining of the steep and/or twill to fine curved effects. The weaves may reclining twill to fine run in only one direction or may reverse. Any curved effects. twill weave may be used as a basis but the same must be used throughout the design. Used mainly for fancy striped cotton fabrics. A brush-like dot, that is A brush-like dot, that is larger and puffier than larger and puffier than polka dot in marquisette fabric. Made by one polka dot in or more roving yarns, which are woven into marquisette fabric the material and then cut close to the surface. . an indirect yarn 1. IN ASBESTOS AND GLASS YARNS. The numbering system number of 100 yard lengths of yarn per pound; an indirect yarn numbering system. 2. IN WOOL YARNS. The number of 300 yard lengths of yarn per pound; an indirect yarn numbering system. 3. IN WOVEN FABRIC. A length of fabric; may vary according to type of cloth, seller, packing and shipping conditions. 4. IN KNITTING. An American term for Gauge. See under Ruche. See under Ruche. See Cut selvedge. See Cut selvedge. An indication on a An indication on a weaver’s warp of a precise weaver’s warp of a length of material, generally a piece length or precise length of a fraction of a piece length. material See Broken pick. See Broken pick. See under Pile, in See under Pile, in carpet. carpet.



defects garments, made-ups, assemblies garments, A pile floor covering A pile floor covering in which the pile is made-ups, composed of tufts in the form of cut loops. assemblies accessories See under Ruche. See under Ruche. defects Also called Bad listing, Also called Bad listing, Broken selvedge, Cut listing, Damaged selvedge and Rippled Broken selvedge, Cut selvedge. Fabric defect. Cuts or breaks that listing, Damaged occur in the selvedge only. selvedge and Rippled selvedge. Fabric defect. garments, See Stitch shaped cut See Stitch shaped cut garment. made-ups, garment. assemblies fibers, An inferior cotton fibre, An inferior cotton fibre, which has been



203 Word



Category filaments, yarns



Short description which has been accidentally cut during ginning



Description accidentally cut during ginning due to the fibre being too damp. Sometimes used improperly to describe staple of man-made textile, especially rayon staple. CUT WEFT defects See Chopped weft. See Chopped weft. CUT WORK processes, A general term for A general term for design made by cutting. operations design made by cutting. Specifically, an embroidery in which the material is cut away and the spaces partly filled with loops and stitches. CUT, MAKE AND TRIM processes, See CMT. See CMT. operations CUT-LOOP PILE garments, See under Pile, in See under Pile, in carpet. made-ups, carpet. assemblies CUT-OFF accessories, one or more ends, in 1. IN FABRICS, one or more ends, in plain or plain or rib weave rib weave, which separate and highlight the apparatus, division be-tween the edge and body weave equipage, in a ribbon. Also called Binder. tools 2. IN ZIPPERS, the measurement of a separate element from the head side to the pocket side of the legs CUTICLE fibers, The surface layer of The surface layer of animal hair fibres, filaments, animal hair fibres consisting of flat overlapping scales. yarns CUTTING defects Defect in knitted Defect in knitted fabrics, caused by the fabrics, caused by the cutting of yarn by the knitting elements during cutting of yarn stitch formation and the subsequent opening of the stitches due to imposed tensions. See also Bursting. CUTTING DEFECTS IN defects See under Garment See under Garment defects, classified. GARMENT defects, classified. CUTTING OFF-GRAIN processes, Cutting not in line with Cutting not in line with the grain. operations the grain. CUTTING ON THE processes, Sometimes also called Sometimes also called Bias cut. Cutting CROSS operations Bias cut. across the grain. CUTTING STRAIGHT processes, Cutting with the grain Cutting with the grain GRAIN operations CUTTLED processes, Fabric folded, instead Fabric folded, instead of rolled. With fine operations of rolled fabrics cuttling does not cause the slight unevenness in tension at the selvedges, which results from rolling. CUTTLING processes, To place fabric in loose 1. To place fabric in loose transverse folds, operations transverse folds, usually in open width. usually in open width. 2. To fold finished fabric down the middle and place it in transverse folds or pre-determined length.



204 Word CV



Category fibers, filaments, yarns, general fibers, filaments, yarns accessories



Short description See Cyanoethylated cotton.



CYLINDER BED



apparatus, equipage, tools



CYLINDER PRINTING



processes, operations



In sewing machine, a cylindrically shaped bed mounted horizontally above the surface of the table See Roller printing.



CYANOETHYLATED COTTON CYCLE LENGTH



Chemically modified cotton goods pro In braided rope



Description 1. See Cyanoethylated cotton. 2. See Coefficient of variation. CV % o See Coefficient of variation unevenness. Also called CV. Chemically modified cotton goods pro In braided rope, the length along the axis required for a strand to make one revolution around the rope. In sewing machine, a cylindrically shaped bed mounted horizontally above the surface of the table to facilitate the handling and sewing of tubular articles. See Roller printing.



D Word D AND K



D AND T YARN DACCA MUSLIN



DACRON



Short Description description fabrics Term stands for Term stands for ‘damaged and ‘damaged and kept’, and denotes lengths of kept fabrics spoilt in processing. fibers, filaments, See Double and See Double and twist yarn yarns twist yarn fabrics A very fine, A very fine, extremely light, extremely light, cotton muslin from Dacca. cotton muslin Made from cotton grown locally, from Dacca it is very famous fibers, filaments, Trade name for Trade name for a polyester yarns a polyester fibre. fibre. It blends well with other fibres, can be bleached and takes dye well. Used mainly in the manufacture of clothing, curtaining, furnishings, and fillings for pillows and quilts. Washes well and drips dry, as the fibre does not absorb moisture. A variety of types are developed to meet divergent needs; like, a low-pill fibre meant for light fabrics, thin wadding fibre Category



205



Word



DAGGER FIBRE



DAMAGE



DAMAGED AND KEPT DAMAGED SELVEDGE DAMASK



Category



Short description



Description



suitable for padded clothes, a very fine weft fibre for sportswear and leisurewear fabrics, etc. fibers, filaments, A fibre obtained A fibre obtained from the yarns from the dagger dagger plant, a name for plant several species of yucca. defects Defect on fabric Defect on fabric caused by (a) corrosive chemicals coming in contact with it, (b) mechanical injuries like holes, tears, or cuts, (c) miniature holes in the fabric, (d) poor yarn twisting, (e) unduly heavy threads and (f) abrasion on knots fabrics See D and K. See D and K. defects fabrics



See Cut selvedge Very old type of figured fabric, first made of silk in Damascus.



See Cut selvedge Very old type of figured fabric, first made of silk in Damascus. Elaborately woven on jacquard loom, the fabric has satin floats on a warp satin background; the surface design runs in the opposite direction from those in the background. Now it is a figured fabric made with one warp and one weft in which, generally, warp-satin and weftsateen weaves are used. Made in different fibres and weights. Used mostly for furnishings, table linen, towels. Rarely found now as a dress fabric. Most damask is self-toned, i.e. the warp and weft are in same colour; the design creates the interest. Linen makes the most elegant and hardwearing tablecloths, as it may be boiled, starched and given a high gloss with the iron. Cotton and viscose damask is not as hardwearing. Most damasks crease readily. The closer the texture the more hardwearing it



206



Word



Category



Short description



DAMASQUTTE



fabrics



A damask



DAMASSIN



fabrics



Brocade or damask fabric



DAMP DRY



processes, operations



Term used to describe laundry



DAMPING CLOTH



fabrics



A piece of absorbent fabric



DAMPING MACHINE



apparatus, equipage, tools



A machine used for damping wool textiles See Mending



DARNING DART



DARTMOOR



DB DE-AERATION



DE-SKILLED MACHINE



DEACETYLATED ACETATE FIBRE



processes, operations garments, made- A wedge shape ups, assemblies removed from the surface area of a garment fibers, filaments, Hardy wool from yarns British mountain sheep garments, madeSee Double ups, assemblies breasted processes, The removal of operations all undissolved gases



Description will be. A damask woven with more than one weft to provide extra colour. Brocade or damask fabric with gold or silver patterns woven into it. Term used to describe laundry when it has been removed from an automatic washer with the right moisture condition for ironing A piece of absorbent fabric which is wetted and laid over a garment during pressing. This increases the humidity in that area and prevents the formation of gloss on some fabrics. A machine used for damping wool textiles during finishing. See Mending A wedge shape removed from the surface area of a garment by stitching or alternatively by cutting and stitching Hardy wool from British mountain sheep. It is rather free from kemp See Double breasted



The removal of all undissolved gases and part of the dissolved gases (chiefly air) from spinning solutions prior to extrusion Any machine which has been apparatus, Any machine equipage, tools which has been re-engineered in such a way, re-engineered in that the operator’s job, demand such a way, that lesser skill with regard to the the operator’s earlier models of the machine. job, demand lesser skill fibers, filaments, A manufactured A manufactured fibre of yarns fibre of regenerated cellulose obtained



207



Word



DEAD COLOURS



DEAD COTTON



DEAD FIBRE DEAD TWIST DEAD WOOL



DECALCOMANIE



DECATING



Category



Short description regenerated cellulose



Description



by almost complete deacetylation of a cellulose acetate. defects Fabric defect. Fabric defect. Decorations or motifs that have been deadened, killed, or subdued during the scouring, or other more or less rigid treatments in finishing. fibers, filaments, immature, 1. FIBRE. General term used yarns,defects undeveloped for immature, undeveloped cotton fibres, cotton fibres. May cause Small neps of increased nep-piness on the cotton fibres fabric and also may cause uneven dyeing. May show up as undyed specks, due to poor dye affinity. 2. FABRIC DEFECT. Small neps of cotton fibres which are gathered on the surface of the fabric and which are different in colour from the surrounding fabric. fibers, filaments, See under See under Cotton maturity yarns Cotton maturity fibers, filaments, See Set twist. See Set twist. yarns fibers, filaments, Also called Also called Fallen wool. Wool yarns Fallen wool. taken from the sheep that has died from natural causes. See also Skin wool. processes, An old form of An old form of lithographic operations lithographic printing, for embroidery printing, for transfers. The design was embroidery transferred from the tissue transfers. paper on which it was printed, usually by ironing. Thick enamel-like pigments were employed for printing Also called Decatizing. A processes, Also called finishing process applied to operations Decatizing. A fabrics to set the material, finishing process enhance lustre and improve the applied to hand. The cloth is wound fabrics to set the around a perforated drum, material, enhance lustre between layers of a blanket and



208



Word



Category



DECATING MARK



defects



DECATIZING



processes, operations fabrics



DECK-CHAIR CANVAS



DECLARED COMPOSITION



general



DECOLOURISE



processes, operations



DECORTICATING



processes, operations



DECRIMPING



processes, operations processes, operations



DECRYSTALLISED COTTON



Short Description description and improve the steam passed through from the hand. inside to outside layers. Then the action is then reversed. On completion of treatment, the steam removed by vacuum pump. This process helps to overcome uneven or blotchy dyeing Also called Apron mark, Leader Also called mark. Fabric defect. A crease Apron mark, mark or impression extending Leader mark. Fabric defect. weftwise across the cloth near the beginning or end of the piece, caused by the thickness of the fabric leader seam See Decating See Decating A fabric in plain, repp, or twill weave



The nominal composition of a mixture of textile materials



A fabric in plain, repp, or twill weave, made of vegetable or man-made fibres, or a combination of any of these fibres. Traditionally, of width not more than 500 mm and weight not less than 185 g/m2 The nominal composition of a mixture of textile materials, used for labelling and invoicing purposes and, where appropriate, for the calculation of the weighted commercial allowance or weighted moisture regain of the mixture The process of stripping colour from fabrics.



The process of stripping colour from fabrics Process of removing the woody, Process of pithy matter from bast fibre by removing the mechanical means. See woody, pithy Retting. matter The removal of The removal of crimp crimp Cotton impregnated with Cotton anhydrous liquid ethylamine. impregnated This lowers the cotton’s with anhydrous crystallinity. It is not a chemical liquid treatment in the sense that ethylamine.



209



Word



Category



Short description



DEEP DYEING



fibers, filaments, yarns



A property of fibres modified



DEEP PINNING



defects



Fabric defect.



DEEP-TEXTURED FABRICS



fabrics



Threedimensional effects in cloth



DEFECT



defects



A fault that would reduce the expected performance of a textile material



Description there is any chemical change in the cotton. The change is in the degree of order of the cellulose molecules and in their spacial relationships to each other. The treatment opens up the structure of the cellulose in cotton and it improves its absorbency and dyeability A property of fibres modified so as to have greater uptake of dyes than normal fibres. Fabric defect.. Conspicuous pin marks of stenter appearing in the body of the fabric and so reducing the usable width of the fabric. The defect is often caused by incorrect feed on to a pin stenter. Three-dimensional effects in cloth achieved by (1) thick and thin yarns (curled, looped, slubbed); (b) combination of weaves; (c) choice of colour and colour blends. A fault that would reduce the expected performance of a textile material or, if it appeared in a prominent position in a textile article, would readily be seen and rejected by a prospective pur-chaser. Critical defect: A defect, which could result in hazardous or unsafe conditions for individuals using or maintaining the product as well as defects contravening legal regulations. Major defect: A defect, if conspicuous by its severity or location or both on the textile material, and that would cause the material to be a second. Minor defect: A defect, WHICH that would not cause the textile material to be a second either because of severity or location.



210 Short Description description DEFECTIVE defects Defect in knitted Defect in knitted fabric. The PLATING fabric. appearance, on the face side of a fabric, of the wrong one or two yarns knitted simultaneously at a feeder. It is usually caused by poorly differentiated feed heights or tension during plating. Also called Post cure. One DEFERRED CURE processes, One method of method of fixing (curing) the operations fixing (curing) the cross-linking cross-linking chemical in the chemical in the fabric after the garment is made and pressed. One form is fabric after the garment is made known as permanent press or and pressed. durable press. In this process, a memory is given to the garment as sewn and pressed. As a result of this treatment, the shape of the garment is ‘locked out’. Therefore, seams stay flat and neat, and the texture of the fabric remains smooth after repeated washings. No ironing is needed. Hence, fabrics with durable press are truly washand-wear. DEFINITION general Sharpness or Sharpness or clearness of a clearness of a print and how well the design print stands out. DEFOLIATION processes, Chemically Chemically treating cotton operations treating cotton plants to make them shed their plants leaves. DEFORMATION processes, A change in A change in shape of a material operations shape of a caused by forces of material caused compression, shear, tension, or by forces of torsion. See also Immediate compression, elastic deformation, Delayed shear, tension, deformation and Permanent or torsion deformation. A deleterious change in DEGRADATION processes, A deleterious properties of a textile. The operations change in properties of a decomposition of fibres by such means as heat, light, chemicals textile. and nuclear radiation DEGREASED fibers, filaments, Wool from which Wool from which yolk, suint, WOOL yarns foreign matter and other foreign matter have have been been removed by the naptha Word



Category



211 Short Description description removed method. DEGREASING processes, The removal of 1. The removal of natural fats, waxes, oil, and dirt from any operations natural fats, waxes, oil, and textile material by means of an or-ganic solvent. dirt from any textile material 2. The removal of grease, suint, and extraneous matter from wool by an aqueous or solvent pro-cess. DEGREE OF seams, stitches The amount by The amount by weight, CRYSTALLINITY weight expressed as a percentage, of a linear polymer which is present in a crystalline form, the rest of the polymer being in an amorphous state. DEGREE OF fibers, filaments, The extent to The extent to which the fibre ORIENTATION yarns which the fibre molecules lie in the direction of molecules lie in the fibre length. the direction of the fibre length. DEGREE OF ³ Also called DP. Also called DP. The average POLYMERISATION number of repeating units in the individual macromolecules in a polymer. The removal of sericin (silk DEGUMMING processes, The removal of gum) from silk yarns or fabrics operations sericin (silk by a controlled, hot, mildly gum) from silk yarns or fabrics alkaline treatment intended to have little or no effect on the underlying fibroin. DELAINE fabrics Lightweight plain Lightweight plain weave wool weave wool fabric, made from good quality fabric botany worsted yarns. Soft finished and usually printed, used for dresses. Rather expensive DELAVÉ fabrics Denim fabric Denim fabric with faded-effect. with fadedTerm may be used instead of effect. ‘washed out’ to describe jeans made from this fabric DELAYED processes, Also called Also called Creep. Deformation, DEFORMATION operations Creep. which is time-dependent and exhibited by textile material subject to a continuing force DELICATE WASH processes, See Gentle See Gentle wash cycle. CYCLE operations wash cycle. Word



Category



212



Word



Category



DELUSTRANT



seams, stitches



DELUSTRED



DENIER



DENIER VARIATION DENIM



Short description A material added to a spinning composition



Description



A material added to a spinning composition before extrusion to reduce the lustre of a manmade fibre. The anatase form of titanium dioxide is commonly used for this purpose. fibers, filaments, Man-made Man-made filament or fibre, the yarns filament or fibre sheen of which has been reduced or eliminated by using delustrant in the spinning solution before extrusion. Terms used to indicate the level of delustrant in man-made fibres are: clear, bright, semi-dull, dull, matt, extra dull, and super-dull. fibers, filaments, A direct yarn A direct yarn numbering system yarns numbering for expressing linear density. system for The mass in grams per 9000 m expressing of fibre, filament, yarn, or other linear density. textile strand. See also Linear density. defects See Ring See Ring fabrics



A very hardwearing twill fabric, traditionally made from cotton



A very hard-wearing twill fabric, traditionally made from cotton but now also made in polyester/cotton and stretch types in a variety of yarn numbers, and in various fabric weights, colours, designs, and finishes. The weave is usually 3 x 1 twill and a steep twill is produced by setting the warp yarns closer together than the weft. It was originally a protective clothing fabric but now it has become accepted for leisurewear. More recently, other weaves have been used in lighter constructions. Denim has its origin in the traditional blue, indigo-dyed, over-all cloth made and worn in Nimes, hence ‘de Nimes’. It is a twill weave fabric easily recognisable by the undyed weft yarn and coloured, usually



213



Word



Category



Short description



DENIM CORD



fabrics



Denim-look fabric



DENSITY



fabrics



The mass per unit volume, based on measurement of fabric weight, thickness and area.



DENT



general



The term describes the space between adjacent reed wires.



Description indigo blue, warp. It is stiff and unyielding but softens in wear, and is very strong and hardwearing, but fades to whitish patches at creases or points of strain, hem edges, etc., and creases easily. Used for casual style clothing, such as jeans, skirts, lightweight jackets and suits, shorts, children’s clothes, and for protective clothing. If made from cotton, or cotton with polyester; the fabric is firm. Cotton with modal is soft. A mixture of cotton, polyester and viscose, is firm. Allowance given for shrinkage. Some denims made for dresses and less casual clothes contain more polyester; the colours are different, the fabric sometimes thinner, and it may fray slightly but will crease less. See also Brushed denim, Denim cord. Denim-look fabric made from white and coloured yarn, with a slight Bedford cord effect produced by raised ribs. It is a mixture of polyester and cotton fibres, and creases less than all cotton. Used for casual jackets, trousers, skirts, and children’s clothes. The mass per unit volume, based on measurement of fabric weight, thickness and area. It represents a measure of compactness as well as open space in weave. Fabric density may be rated high or compact as contrasted with low or open. The term describes the space between adjacent reed wires. The unit of a reed comprising a reed wire and a space between adjacent wires. Sometimes also



214



Word



Category



DENTAL FLOSS



garments, madeups, assemblies



DENTING PLAN



fabrics



DENTS PER UNIT garments, madeWIDTH ups, assemblies



DEPILATORY



³



DEPTH



general



DERBY RIB



fabrics



DERIVATION WEAVES



fabrics



DERRIES



fabrics



DESCRIPTION COTTON



fabrics



DESIGN IN FABRICS



fabrics



Short description



Description



called Split. A stong loosely A stong loosely twisted silk twisted silk yarn yarn, which is specially treated and used to clean spaces between teeth. Now some of the high tenacity hydrophobic synthetic yarns in filament form are being used. See Reeding See Reeding plan plan the number of In woven pile yarn floor binding sites per covering, the number of binding unit width sites per unit width; dents being the reed spaces through which the warp yarns pass in the loom or the metal strips in the reed which form these spaces A chemical used A chemical used in one method of obtaining hair from the in one method of obtaining hair carcases of dead animals. One of the methods used for from the obtaining pulled wool. carcases of dead animals Departure of a Departure of a coloured object coloured object from white and frequently from white associated with either concentration or efficiency of a colorant. See under Rib See under Rib fabric, weftfabric, weftknitted. knitted. fancy weaves Any fancy weaves derived from the three basic (plain, twill, and satin) weaves. A yarn dyed cotton dress fabric A yarn dyed made in brown or blue, or a cotton dress fabric made in combination of either of these colours with white brown or blue Natural Natural cellulosic (Gossypium) cellulosic fibres that are guaranteed to (Gossypium) meet definite specifications as fibres to character, grade, staple and place of origin. Design lends Design lends interest to fabrics interest to and is responsible for great fabrics and is variety and beauty. Designs are



215



Word



Category



DESIGN PAPER



general



DESIGNER’S BLANKET DESIZING



fabrics processes, operations



Short Description description responsible for generally divided into two broad great variety and classes: Structural design: beauty Patterns are introduced by the use at intervals of different yarns such as coloured, thick and novelty yarns, and those made of different fibres, e.g. metallic yarns or lustrous rayon yarns In S twist yarn, the twist direction follows the centre bar of the letter ‘S’. (‘S’ twist’ is also known as ‘left twist’ and ‘reverse twist’). For some purposes it is necessary to have doubled yarns, which are single yarns twisted together. The twist of the single yarns can either run in the same, twist on twist, or in the opposite direction, twist against twist. The latter is the more common method, since when the single twists are in opposite directions the doubled yarn is smoother and more lustrous. IN WEAVING,IN 1. IN WEAVING. Paper ruled KNITTING with a series of horizontal and vertical lines, in a manner suitable for showing weaves and designs. Generally, each space between vertical lines represents one end and each space between horizontal lines represents one pick. For figured designs, other rul-ings are used. See also Point-paper design. 2. IN KNITTING. Paper printed with a series of horizontal and vertical lines, dots or other shapes representing a ground structure on which the draft of a design is plotted See Pattern See Pattern blanket blanket The removal of The removal of size from yarn size from yarn or or fabric, by using acids or fabric enzymes to convert the size to



216



Word



Category



Short description



DESORPTION



processes, operations



A process in which a sorbed material is released from another material



DETERGENCY



general



The term means cleansing and, in its broadest sense, it is the removal of any undesirable or foreign substance from the required material.



Description a soluble form, which then washes out A process in which a sorbed material is released from another material, as the desorption of moisture from fibres; the reverse of Absorption, Adsorption or both. The term means cleansing and, in its broadest sense, it is the removal of any undesirable or foreign substance from the required material. In the case of textiles this involves the removal of all impurities, leaving the fibres in such a state that they are equipped for the purpose for which they are intended. Surface tension and detergency are closely related. When dealing with textiles the basic deter-gents are surface-active compounds. Adjacent molecules in solids and liquids exert attractive forces on each other. It is apparent that the molecules at the liquid/air interface differ from those in the body of the liquid because of the absence of attractive forces at right angles to the surface. The result is that the inward pull on these molecules is greater than any of the others, creating a tendency for the surface to contract. The phenomenon is referred to as surface tension. Surface-active compounds such as soaps are not distributed evenly when in solution but tend to become more concentrated at the surface layer than in the body of the solvent. The reason is that the attraction between the water dipoles is greater than that between the paraffin chains and also between the latter and



217



Word



Category



Short description



Description water. The introduction of these aliphatic chains tends to separate the wa-ter molecules but the mutual attraction of the latter is so great that the nonpolar chains will be forced out of the water phase. The reduction in surface tension is caused by the tendency of the hydrocarbon chains to move away from the water interface creating a force in a direction opposite to the inward pull on wa-ter molecules at the surface. The surface-active molecule or ion can be looked upon as a bridge between the two phases making the transition between them less abrupt. Another factor to be taken into consideration is that the crowding together of molecules at the interface gives a closely packed boundary layer offering resistance to the liability of the surface to diminish in area. In textile scouring the task is to remove a film of oil or wax with adhering dirt from the fibre. To do this successfully three things must be accomplished: (a) the aqueous phase must wet the sur-face of the fibre, (b) the oil, the wax and the dirt must be detached from the fibre and, (c) a sta-ble emulsion of the oil must be formed so that it will not be redeposited. When a fibre, covered with a layer of oil or wax, is immersed in a warm aqueous solution of soap and observed under a microscope it will be seen that the oil or wax film bunching up and ultimately collecting itself into spherical globules which get very easily detached from the fibre surface.



218



Word DETERGENT



DETWISTED



DEVELOPED DYES



DEVELOPING



Short Description description ³ A surface-active A surface-active cleaning agent cleaning agent or solvent, containing one or or solvent more surfactants as the active ingredient(s). Originally the term applied to soap and water softeners. Now, it generally applies to various synthetic washing products, which have good dispersing properties and are stable in acid or alkaline solutions fibers, filaments, a yarn of fibres Descriptive of a yarn of fibres or yarns or filaments from filaments from which twist has which twist has been removed. been removed. ³ Also called Also called Diazo dyes. Class of Diazo dyes. dyes, which is altered through Class of dyes, the use of a developer to which is altered improve fastness. The material through the use is first dyed with a direct dye, of a developer to and then treated with an acid in improve a step called ‘diazotizing’ then fastness further treated with a solution of beta-naphthol or similar chemical known as the developer, from which this class receives its name. Used to make a different shade of the same colour or to increase colour resistance to sun and washing. Applied almost exclusively to cotton, although it may be used on viscose rayon, silk, linen and mixtures. Also used for discharge printing of cotton, viscose rayon and silk because of the ease with which they can be bleached by chemicals in printing and their fastness to moderate washing. processes, A step in a A step in a dyeing or printing operations dyeing or process in which an printing process intermediate form of the colorant is converted with certain compounds, which will develop a new colour, a different shade of the same Category



219



Word



Category



Short description



Description



colour, or improved fastness properties. DEVELOPING ³ A chemical, A chemical, which is applied to AGENT which is applied a dyed fabric to develop the to a dyed fabric colour on the fabric to its insoluble state DEVORANT fabrics See Burnt-out See Burnt-out fabric FABRIC fabric DEVORÉ FABRIC fabrics See Burnt-out See Burnt-out fabric fabric DEW POINT general temperature The temperature below which below which condensation of water vapour condensation of begins to take place when the water vapour atmosphere is cooled. begins DEWDROPS accessories Little drops of Little drops of gelatin or glass gelatin or glass used for ornamentation of some net fabrics DEWING apparatus, A type of A type of damping machine MACHINE equipage, tools damping machine DIACETATE FIBRE fibers, filaments, A manufactured A manufactured fibre made yarns fibre from acetone-soluble cellulose acetate A characteristic rather bold DIAGONAL fabrics A characteristic diagonal twill line generally rather bold running across the fabric at diagonal twill 45ºangle; other angles of line inclination are also used DIAMOND fabrics,apparatus, Lozenge1. Lozenge-shaped design equipage, tools shaped design obtained by reversing a twill in both warp and weft. 2. In zippers, the wedge-shaped portion of a slider between the throats. DIAMOND BRAID fabrics Same as Plain Same as Plain braid braid DIAMONDdefects Fabric defect. Fabric defect. Weft streaks that BARRING are distributed in a characteristic pattern in a woven or flat weft-knitted fabric; this being the result of a periodic variation in the diameter, twist, tension or crimp, or shade in the weft yarn. The dimensions of this fault



220



Word



Category



Short description



Description



depend on the ratio of the length of the periodic variations to the width of the fabric and only rarely is it seen in a clearly diamond form. DIAPER garments, made- A baby’s napkin A baby’s napkin ups, assemblies Also called Diced weaves. The DIAPER WEAVES fabrics The original diaper cloth was original diaper cloth was made of linen and based on a 5-end made of linen and based on a sateen, woven on the damask principle. The cloth has a 5-end sateen, smooth even surface. The woven on the favoured method of producing damask this group of weaves is shown principle below in Diaper weave (1). It is based on a diced weave e.g. the 5-end sateen. Another form is shown in Diaper weave (II), where two basic weaves are used. Many weaves within this group produce effects, which are of a diamond character as shown in Diaper weave (III). A very ancient form of diaper is huckaback. Diapers are produced in cotton, linen and flax, and used principally for towel and toilet purposes. DIAZO DYES ³ See Developed See Developed dyes. dyes. DIAZOTIZING processes, An intermediate An intermediate step in the operations step in the process of developed dyeing. process of The dyed material is treated developed with a solution of nitrous acid, dyeing. which changes the amino group in the dyestuff to a diazo grouping, which can then unite chemically with a developer to give a new dye compound on the fibre. Also referred to as Diaper DICED WEAVES fabrics A group of weaves. A group of weaves weaves produced by quartering and produced by reversing a weave element, quartering and thus forming opposite surfaces reversing a weave element and directions in each quarter



221



Word



Category



Short description



DICEL



fibers, filaments, It is derived from yarns cellulose, dyes well and has exceptionally good draping qualities



DIE



apparatus, A small cylinder equipage, tools of steel, which is hand-engraved



DIE CUTTING



DIE PRESSING DIE SWELL DIFFERENTIAL DROP FEED



DIFFERENTIAL



processes, operations



Cutting one or more layers of fabric using cutting tools



Description and clean cuts between the sections. Weaves tend to repeat on relatively small areas, but larger versions are possible. Trade name for an acetate fibre. It is derived from cellulose, dyes well and has exceptionally good draping qualities. Wears well, has good crease-recovery properties and is resistant to moths and mildew. Used for a wide variety of fabrics for clothing and furnishing, taffeta, brocade, lining fabric and velvet and in knit form for lingerie. Often used with other fibres to create special effects, e.g. dicel/viscose jacquards for evening and bridal fabrics A small cylinder of steel, which is hand-engraved with one or more repeats of a small-scale print design pattern, then hardened and used to produce the ‘mill’. See also Mill Also called Die pressing. Cutting one or more layers of fabric using cutting tools (dies) or a composite cutting tool in conjunction with machine pressure See Die cutting



processes, See Die cutting operations fibers, filaments, See under Swell See under Swell ratio. yarns ratio. In sewing machine, a type of apparatus, In sewing equipage, tools machine, a type drop feed having two feed dogs, arranged in tandem, which of drop feed having two feed move differentially. Material can be gathered or stretched by dogs adjusting the stroke of the feed dog in front of the needle so that it is longer or shorter respectively than the stroke of the feed dog be-hind the needle fibers, filaments, tendency of The tendency of cotton fibres to



222



Word DYEING



DIFFERENTIAL FEED



DIFFERENTIAL SHRINKAGE



DIFFERENTIAL WEAR DIGITAL SOCKS



Short Description description yarns cotton fibres to absorb and retain selectively absorb and varying proportions of different retain dyes from a binary dye bath In sewing machine, a work apparatus, In sewing equipage, tools machine, a work advancing mechanism where the dogs are divided into two advancing groups, one before the mechanism needle(s) and one after. The two groups are capable of advancing the work at different rates. If the front group advances the work faster than the rear, a condition of compression or overfeed will occur. If the front group advances the work at a slower rate than the rear, a condition of stretching or underfeed will occur. In knitted garment production differential feed is used to lessen stretching of the fabric during seaming. accessories In zippers In zippers, the difference in longitudinal dimensional change between the zipper tape and the fabric to which the zipper is attached defects See Frosting See Frosting Category



garments, madeups, assemblies



DIMENSIONAL CHANGE



general



DIMENSIONAL RESTORATION



general



Knitted foot coverings



Knitted foot coverings in which a single tube covering the ankle and instep of the foot splits into more than one tube at the toes. The tubes fit over one or more toes. A generic term for changes in changes in length or width of a fabric or length or width of a fabric or garment specimen subjected to specified conditions. The garment change is usually expressed as specimen a percentage of the initial dimension of the specimen Ability of a fabric Ability of a fabric to return to to return to former or original dimensions former or after being distorted by original shrinking or stretching dimensions



223



Word



Category



DIMENSIONAL STABILITY



general



DIMITY



fabrics



DIP



³



DIP DYEING



processes, operations



DIP PICK-UP



general



DIRECT CABLING



processes, operations



DIRECT DYES



³



Short Description description Ability of a fabric Ability of a fabric to retain its to retain its shape and size during normal shape and size usage. Increased stability for washing and wearing may be obtained by fibre blends, by chemical treatments or by mechanical means. from the Greek Name comes from the Greek word meaning word meaning ‘double thread’. ‘double thread’. The fabric is made from double or treble yarns, which create ridges in plain areas. Fine or medium weight fabric, usually made from cotton, and wears well. Is often in check. Used for nightwear, children’s clothes and curtains. A chemical composition that is chemical composition that applied to a textile cord or fabric to improve its adhesion to is applied to a rubber or other elastomer textile cord or fabric The process of The process of dyeing hosiery dyeing hosiery a and other knit goods by immersion in a dye bath. the amount of In textile material, the amount of dip or dip components present dip or dip after processing, including components drying, as determined by present after prescribed methods, and processing expressed as percentage of the mass of the oven-dry dip-free material A system of producing a twistA system of balanced folded yarn from producing a balanced (or twistless) single twist-balanced yarns. The process is usually folded yarn carried out on a modified twofor-one twisting machine. Also known as Substantive Also known as dyes, Commercial dyes. The Substantive name ‘direct dyes’ arose from dyes, the fact that the dyes have Commercial direct substantivity for cellulosic dyes fibres, i.e. without the necessity for a pre-mordanting treatment. These are anionic dyes having



224



Word



Category



Short description



DIRECT SPINNING



processes, operations



IN MAN-MADE FIBRE PRODUCTION, IN MAN-MADE FIBRE YARN PRODUCTION, IN BAST FIBRE PRODUCTION



DIRECT STYLE PRINTING



processes, operations



The type of textile printing in which the colouring matter and the mordant are applied simultaneously



Description substantivity for cellulosic fibres. Normally applied from an aqueous dyebath containing a salt (electrolyte). Direct dyes are: · suitable for acrylic, cotton, linen, wool, silk, viscose rayon, and cuprammonium rayon fibres, but now the usage is declining 1. IN MAN-MADE FIBRE PRODUCTION. Integrated polymerisation and fibre extrusion without in-tervening isolation or storage of the polymer. 2. IN MAN-MADE FIBRE YARN PRODUCTION. The conversion of filament tow to staple fibre and spin yarn in one operation. See also Yarn from filament tow under Spinning. 3. IN BAST FIBRE PRODUCTION. A method of dry-spinning bast fibres whereby untwisted slivers are drafted with suitable controls and directly twisted into yarn. 4. IN SHORT-STAPLE YARN PRODUCTION. The manufacture of yarn directly from sliver on the cotton system, bypassing the roving process Also called Application printing. The type of textile printing in which the colouring matter and the mordant are applied simultaneously, direct to a cloth. Until the advent of chemically produced dyestuffs there was very little direct printing (i.e. printing with a paste containing both the colour and the fixing agent), exception being almost all the pigment colours. It is to be noted that, pigment colours effect only just a coating (rather



225



Word



DIRECT YARN NUMBERING SYSTEM DIRECT-SPUN



DIRECTION OF TWIST



Category



Short description



Description



painting) of the outside of yarn or fabric, unlike dyestuffs, which stain the individual fibres of the yarn or fabric. fibers, filaments, A system that A system that expresses yarn yarns expresses yarn number in mass per unit length; number in mass i.e. linear density. per unit length 1. A term used to describe fibers, filaments, A term used to filaments or yarn produced by yarns describe direct spinning. filaments or yarn 2. Descriptive of woollen yarns produced by direct spinning spun on a mule machine onto weft bobbins. fibers, filaments, The direction in The direction in which the twist yarns which the twist is inserted in yarns and other textile strands. is inserted in yarns and other Twist is inserted by rotating the spinning/doubling spindle in textile strands. either one direction or the other. It is the general practice to indicate these two directions by the capital letters ‘S’ and ‘Z’. The downstroke of each letter indicates the direction in which the surface fibres lie. The Z twisted yarns are twisted so that the direction of the twist follows the centre bar of the letter ‘Z’. (‘Z’ twist is also known as ‘right twist’ and ‘ordinary twist’). In S twist yarn, the twist direction follows the centre bar of the letter ‘S’. (‘S’ twist’ is also known as ‘left twist’ and ‘reverse twist’). For some purposes it is necessary to have doubled yarns, which are single yarns twisted to-gether. The twist of the single yarns can either run in the same, twist on twist, or in the opposite direction, twist against twist. The latter is the more common method, since when the single twists are in



226



Word



Category



DIRECTION OF YARN SLIPPAGE



fabrics



DIRTY ENDS



defects



DISCHARGE



³



DISCHARGE STYLE PRINTING



processes, operations



DISCRETE SAMPLE



general



DISPERSE DYES



³



Short description



Description



opposite directions the doubled yarn is smoother and more lustrous. In woven fabric, the line of In woven fabric, movement parallel to either the that which is weft or the warp yarns in which required to minimum force is required to produce yarn produce yarn slippage slippage See Soiled See Soiled ends. ends. An agent, which removes An agent, which (discharges) the colour from removes (discharges) the previously dyed cloth. Hence, the discharge style printing of colour from fabrics previously dyed cloth. Also called Also called Extract printing. It is Extract printing. possible to destroy by bleaching out, or ‘discharging’ by chemical means, a pattern from an already piece-dyed fabric. This process enables fairly intricate and fine patterns to be printed, giving the effect of resist dyeing. Subsequently these white areas could be reprinted in a different colour. Now, colour discharges are produced in which a range of dyestuffs unaffected by the discharg-ing agent are added to the discharge paste, so while the one is taking out the colour of the dyed ground, the other is being deposited in its place. Compare Bulk One or more units taken from a sample material that consists of separately identifiable units. (Compare Bulk sample). Non-ionic. Water-insoluble dyes Non-ionic. usually applied as a finely Water-insoluble divided dispersion. Disperse dyes usually dyes are: applied as a suitable for cellulose acetate, finely divided cellulose triacetate, and dispersion. polyester fibres suitable for polyamide, acrylic,



227



Word



Category



DISPERSIBILITY



general



DISPERSION



general, fibers, filaments, yarns



DISPERSION SPINNING



processes, operations



Short description



The degree to which particles can be broken down to some minimum size Suspension of very fine particles in a liquid phase. A process in which polymers extrude into fibres



Description and elastomeric fibres, but the usage is now declining. The degree to which particles can be broken down to some minimum size such that they will pass through the interstices of a standard filter paper. 1. Suspension of very fine particles in a liquid phase. 2. See under Fibre length.



A process in which polymers that tend to an infusible, insoluble, and generally intractable character (e.g. polytetrafluoroethylene) are dispersed as fine particles in a carrier such as sodium alginate or sodium cellulose xanthate solutions, that permit extrusion into fibres, after which the dispersed polymer is caused to coalesce by a heating process, the carrier being removed either by a heating or by a dissolving process. DISPLACED INLAY defects Fabric defect Fabric defect. A break in the YARN intended pattern of an inlay pile fabric. The defect is caused by a disruption in the synchronisation of the knitting elements that control the position of a fleecy yarn in a laid-in fabric DISPOSABLE fabrics Expendable Expendable items, such as FABRICS items hospital sheets, pillowcases, diapers, wiping cloths, and paper dresses. DISPOSABLE garments, madeA garment, A garment, which is intended to GARMENT ups, assemblies which is be worn only once, or a few intended to be times and then discarded. worn only once, DISSOLVING fibers, filaments, A specially A specially purified form of PULP yarns purified form of cellulose made from wood cellulose tissue DISTORTED fabrics A mock-leno A mock-leno weave where



228



Word



Category



THREAD EFFECT



Short description weave



DISTORTION



defects



Defect in textile battings.



DISTRICT CHECKS



fabrics



Bold distinctive woollen checks



DISTURBED PLACE



defects



Fabric defect



DIVIDED DRAW



fabrics



Multiple fabrics



DIVIDED HARNESS



apparatus, equipage, tools



This type of harness is used when weaving jacquard fabrics having two distinct sets of figuring threads



DMEU



³



DOBBY



apparatus, equipage, tools



DOBBY FABRIC



fabrics



DOBBY LOOM



apparatus, equipage, tools



DOCTOR



apparatus, equipage, tools



Description threads can be displaced from their normal line in either the warp direction, or the weft direction. Defect in textile battings. The defects are holes, lumps, or thin areas caused by movement of fibres in the batting Bold distinctive woollen checks usually in 2x2 twill weave. Originally, fabric patterns designed to indicate the family lineage of members of the various Scottish clans. Fabric defect. An area where the weave has been disarranged, but where the yarns are undam-aged. Multiple fabrics (backed and double cloths) that have two or more warps in the construction. This type of harness is used when weaving jacquard fabrics having two distinct sets of figuring threads, e.g. double cloths figured by interchange or repps. It makes card cutting easier and simplifies defect tracing See under Epoxy resin



See under Epoxy resin A mechanical A mechanical device, which device, which controls the harnesses in a controls the loom for controlling the harnesses in a movement of the heald shafts to loom give small geometric patterns in the fabric being produced Any one or a Any one or a variety of weaves variety of which require a dobby weaves which require a dobby A loom A loom equipped with a dobby equipped with a head. See Dobby dobby head. In printing, a In printing, a straight-edged straight-edged steel blade which is placed in



229



Word



Category



DOCTOR STREAK



defects



DOCTOR’S FLANNEL



fabrics



DOESKIN



fabrics



DOESKIN FABRIC



fabrics



DOFFING



processes, operations



Short Description description contact with the engraved steel blade which is placed cylinder and serves to scrape in contact with off the surplus colour from the raised, non printing, surface. the engraved The term is now applied to any cylinder blade-type sqeegee. See Squeegee Printing defect. Printing defect. A wavy white or coloured streak in the warp direction on printed cloth, caused usually due to damaged or improperly set doctor blade on the printing machine. Soft, medium weight, Soft, medium inexpensive flannel fabric. weight, Fibres are wool or mixed. In inexpensive flannel fabric. white or red only. Type of fabric that could be used for interlining for warmth, lining children’s clothes, nurses’ cloaks, etc. A well-known A well-known glove-leather from glove-leather lambs. It is very soft and easy to from lambs sew. A five-end satin A five-end satin or other warpfaced fabric with dress-face or other warpfaced fabric with finish. Now, other weaves, such as 2/1 warp twill and 3/1 broken dress-face crow, are very often used and finish. given a dress-finish. It is often the effect and the kid-glove handle due to the finish that causes such fabric to be placed in the category of doeskin. The fabric is all wool, often merino, or possibly blended wool including merino. Used for formal tailored garments, dress uniforms, etc. Expensive fabric in its best qualities. 1. The removal of textile The removal of material or packages from a textile material textile machine. or packages from a textile 2. The replacement of spinning packages, which are full with machine. empty spinning tubes (cops). This may be done manually or by automatic doffing units



230



Word



Category



DOG-EARED



fabrics



DOG-LEGGED SELVEDGE DOGS



defects



DOGSTOOTH CHECK DOLLY



DOMESTIC



DOMESTIC KNITTING MACHINE



DOMETE



apparatus, equipage, tools fabrics



Short Description description Fabrics that Fabrics that have a tendency to have a tendency roll or curl diagonally after the to roll or curl piece has been cut. diagonally See Uneven See Uneven selvedge selvedge See Feed-dogs See Feed-dogs



See See Houndstooth check under Houndstooth Checks check 1. A machine in which fabric apparatus, A machine in pieces sewn end to end are equipage, which fabric tools,accessories pieces sewn end circulated repeatedly through a liquor by means of a single pair to end are of squeeze rollers and a circulated drawing-off roller above the repeatedly liquor. through a liquor 2. See Tom-tom. 3.A device for applying moisture during pressing. A strip of fabric rolled up tightly and bound with tape or string at one end and it is used like a brush. fabrics A general name A general name for common for common cotton goods, such as sheeting cotton goods and towels A knitting machine designed to apparatus, A knitting be used in the home. In spite of equipage, tools machine designed to be this, the machines can be very complex and versatile. Most used in the types feature some form of home. needle selection and some types have computer controls. These machines have been widely used industrially also, particularly by designer-led high fashion firms fabrics Also called Also called Domette. Imitation Domette flannel made from a cotton warp and a wool or cotton-wool weft, fininshed with a long nap on both sides. Used for interfacing coats and jackets in which haircanvas is to be used. It is placed against the chest area of



231



Word



Category



Short description



DOMETTE DONEGAL



fabrics fabrics



See Domete A fabric woven from woollenspun yarns



DONKEY



apparatus, equipage, tools



A pressing board in which an upper padded board is supported above the base.



DOPE



fibers, filaments, yarns



DOPE DYEING



processes, operations



A solution of a fibre-forming polymer (the spinningsolution) See Mass colouration.



Description the coat and the hair-canvas on top. Prevents hair from penetrating to the right side of the garment and also avoids showing a hard ridge. It is also used for linings, skirtings, and pyjamas and as padded interlining for quilting. See Domete A fabric woven from woollenspun yarns characterised by its plain-weave structure composed of uneven slub yarns which contain flecks of white or bright colour contrasting with the ground colour. Named after the county of Donegal where it was originally produced. Made in a wide range of weights and colour combinations for suiting and coating use. Though tweeds are normally thought of as being masculine fabrics but in this type, as in others, tweeds are made completely feminine in style and colouring. The word Donegal is now used to describe almost any plainweave tweedy looking cloth with white or bright colour nubs in it. Fibres used include acrylic, cotton, viscose, and mixtures and blends of these A pressing board in which an upper padded board is supported above the base. Designed so that parts of a garment may be pressed without creasing the garment as a whole. A solution of a fibre-forming polymer (the spinning-solution) ready for extruding through a spinner-ets. See Mass colouration.



232



Word



Category



DOSUTI



fabrics, processes, operations



DOTTED SWISS



fabrics



DOUBLE DOUBLE AND TWIST YARN



processes, operations fibers, filaments, yarns



DOUBLE BOW



defects



DOUBLE BRAID



accessories



Short Description description A fabric that has 1. FABRIC. A fabric that has two warp ends and two weft two warp ends and two weft threads working in pairs. Name threads working originated from the Hindi word, which literally means ‘two in pairs threads’. 2. IN WINDING. The process of combining two threads together at a winding machine. A sheer cotton A sheer cotton fabric with crisp fabric with crisp finish and hardwearing. Its finish and distinguishing feature is the selfhardwearing. colour or contrast woven spots made from soft yarn and brought on to the right side of the fabric. The dull crisp finish was originally a Swiss textile finish, but the name now applies to many fabrics that are fine and spotted. Usually cotton but may contain polyester. Used for blouses, nightwear, and children’s clothes, sheer curtains. See Fold. See Fold. Also called D and T yarn.



Fabric defect.



In rope, a braided construction DOUBLE BRAIDED accessories See under ROPE Rope. DOUBLE garments, made- Also called DB. BREASTED ups, assemblies



Also called D and T yarn. A two colour yarn with a spiral effect made by twisting together yarns of different colours in a two-ply construction. See Mottled yarn. Fabric defect. Two bows in fabric arcing in the same direction, as in a flattened ‘M’ or ‘W’ depending on the viewing angle. See also Bow. (Compare Double reverse bow). In rope, a braided construction consisting of two hollow braided ropes, one inside the other. See under Rope. Also called DB. Coat or other garment with wrap over fronts having buttons and buttonholes on each forepart.



233



Word



Category



DOUBLE CANVAS



fabrics



DOUBLE CARDING



processes, operations



DOUBLE CLOTH



fabrics



DOUBLE COMBING



processes, operations



DOUBLE DYED



fabrics



Short Description description Open embroidery canvas fabric Open usually made of cotton yarn. embroidery Plain weave but with the warp canvas fabric usually made of and weft threads arranged in pairs, allowing quite large holes cotton yarn. to alternate with very small ones. A rigid canvas stiffened with size, and is available in several weights. Process of Process of carding fibres, twice carding fibres, so that the yarn made from it twice approaches a combed yarn in appearance. A compound woven fabric in A compound woven fabric in which two component fabrics are held together by one of the which two following: component 1. CENTRE-STITCHING, in fabrics are held which a special series of together stitching threads, lying between the two fabrics, are interlaced alternately with them and thus bind them together. 2. SELF-STITCHING, in which threads from one fabric interlace with the other (e.g. by taking a back warp thread over a face weft thread). 3. INTERCHANGING, in which the two fabrics are so woven as to interchange with each other. In some cases, the fabrics are completely interchanged whereas in others only the warp or weft threads interchange. A system of processing cotton A system of through the combing machinery processing twice to produce very high cotton through quality, fine count yarn. It is the combing machinery twice generally used for yarns finer to produce very than 100s and these yarns are generally mule spun. high quality, fine count yarn. A union fabric, A union fabric, which is dyed which is dyed twice. In the first dyeing twice. process, a dye with affinity for one of the fibres is used and in



234



Word



Category



DOUBLE ENDS



fibers, filaments, yarns, fabrics, defects



DOUBLE HOOKED BOW



defects



DOUBLE HOSIERY garments, madeups, assemblies DOUBLE JERSEY



fabrics



DOUBLE JERSEY KNITTING MACHINE



apparatus, equipage, tools



DOUBLE KNIT



fabrics



Short description



Description



the second dyeing, another dye with an affinity for the second fibre is employed. This is in contrast with union dyeing. See Married 1. YARN. See Married yarn. yarn. 2. FABRIC. A fabric having two warp yarns drawn through the same heddle eye and reed dent to weave as a single end. 3. FABRIC DEFECT. The result of wrong drawing-in of two or more warp ends. Usually drawing-in an extra end through the heddle eye where there should be only one end. This forms a flat-effect or out-of-line effect in the warp direction. Fabric defect. Fabric defect. One hooked bow at each side of the fabric that are in opposite directions. See also Bow and Hooked bow. Stockings with Stockings with reinforced toe reinforced toe and heel to give the appearance and heel of a double thread. Also called Double knit. Firm, Also called textured, heavy fabric in plain Double knit. Firm, textured, colours and is characterised by the fact that both right and heavy fabric in wrong sides are identical, i.e. plain colours they look like stocking stitch. and is Although traditionally wool, characterised by the fact that both which has become expensive, right and wrong this may now be acrylic fibre. Used for skirts, trousers, sides are jackets, warm dresses, light identical, i.e. coats. See also Jersey. they look like stocking stitch. Also called Rib Also called Rib knitting knitting machine. A machine, usually machine. circular, having two sets of needles disposed at 90° to one another, and used for the production of piece goods in rib fabric. Same as Double Same as Double jersey jersey



235 Short Description description DOUBLE fibers, filaments, A four-ply hand A four-ply hand knitting yarn KNITTING YARN yarns knitting yarn with a resultant yarn number of approximately 440 tex. Dobby and jacquard weaving DOUBLE LIFT apparatus, Dobby and mechanisms in which there are equipage, tools jacquard two knives or griffes, one weaving operating on odd picks, the mechanisms other on even picks, to effect the lift. DOUBLE LINE fabrics A term for twill A term for twill weaves which TWILLS weaves produce a pattern in which two of the twill lines are spaced close together with a gap before the pattern repeats DOUBLE LOCKER apparatus, See under Lace See under Lace machines. MACHINE equipage, tools machines. DOUBLE LONDON accessories A worsted twill A worsted twill tape, generally tape, generally with a two-fold warp. with a two-fold warp. DOUBLE MARL fibers, filaments, See under See under Worsted yarns Worsted DOUBLE PICK fabrics, defects The intentional 1. IN FABRIC. The intentional insertion of two picks in the insertion of two same shed during weaving. picks in the 2. FABRIC DEFECT. Two weft same shed picks wrongly placed in the during weaving. same shed, causing a sort of ribbed effect in the warp, which may be very readily noted. See also Mispick and Jerk-in. DOUBLE PICK general See under See under Selvedge INTERWOVEN Selvedge SELVEDGE DOUBLE PICK general See under See under Selvedge. KNITTED Selvedge. SELVEDGE DOUBLE PIQUÉ fabrics Also known as Also known as Wevenit, Rodier Wevenit, Rodier and Overnit. A non-jacquard and Overnit. weft-knitted double jersey fabric made on a rib basis, using a selection of knitted loops and floats. The two most important sequences are known as Swiss double piqué and French double piqué. Word



Category



236 Short description A form of woven double fabric. A second printing on top of a previously printed cloth.



Word



Category



DOUBLE PLAIN



fabrics



DOUBLE PRINTING



processes, operations



DOUBLE REFRACTION DOUBLE REVERSE BOW



general



DOUBLE ROVING SPINNING



processes, operations



A system in which two rovings are fed to each spindle of a ring frame



DOUBLE SATIN



fabrics



A warp-backed satin, frequently used for ribbons



DOUBLE SATIN RIBBON



accessories



Originally a ribbon in which every other warp end floats on one surface and the other warp ends on the other surface in a satin weave.



DOUBLE SHOT



accessories



The construction of a narrow fabric ribbon or galloon



defects



See Birefringence. Fabric defect.



Description A form of woven double fabric. See also Double cloth. 1. A second printing on top of a previously printed cloth. 2. Printing a design on the back (wrong side) of a cloth different from the design on the face (right side). 3. See Duplex printing. See Birefringence. Fabric defect. Two fabric bows arcing in opposite directions. See also Bow. (Compare Double bow.) A system in which two rovings are fed to each spindle of a ring frame, so producing a pseudo two-fold or two-strand yarn. The rovings are separated in the drafting system by means of special guides and the two drafted strands then combined after the drafting system. See also Spinning. A warp-backed satin, frequently used for ribbons, with the backing ends stitched in sateen order to present a warp-satin surface on both sides of the fabric. Originally a ribbon in which every other warp end floats on one surface and the other warp ends on the other surface in a satin weave. In recent times, it is more usually produced in a 4/4 weave, and thus every end floats alternately on both surfaces. It is produced from continuous filament yarns. The construction of a narrow fabric ribbon or galloon in which the body of the fabric is 2/2 weave, providing a pronounced weft-way rib. A plane weave



237



Word



Category



Short description



DOUBLE SPUN YARN



processes, operations



A smooth yarn free of knots and imperfections



DOUBLE TWILL WEAVE



fabrics



A fancy weave



DOUBLE WEAVE FABRIC



fabrics



DOUBLE WELT SEAM



DOUBLE, ON THE



DOUBLE-ENDED NEEDLE



Description binder separates the body from the selvedge. A smooth yarn free of knots and imperfections. Said to be the result of extra care and improved handling in manufacture. Actually a misnomer. A fancy weave in which continuous right-hand twill is crossed by a left-hand twill. A fabric woven with two complete sets of warp and weft yarns. Only one set is visible on the face at any one point



A fabric woven with two complete sets of warp and weft yarns. seams, stitches Also called Also called Mock flat-felled Mock flat-felled seam. A complex seam formed seam. on the inside of the object, with one trimmed raw seam edge enclosed and two rows of stitching visible on the face side. A double welt seam is made like a welt seam except that a second row of topstitching is stitched close to the original seamline. The three rows of stitching visible on the backside are the original seamline, the row of stitching through the article and the wider of the seam allowances, and the row added near the original seam line. (Compare Welt seam). Any fabric, which has been processes, Any fabric, operations which has been folded along the middle of its folded along the length, normally with the face side inwards, so that the middle of its length, normally selvedges are together. Cutting on the double is performed by with the face side inwards, so cutting through two thicknesses so as to obtain two pieces, i.e. a that the right and left hand section. selvedges are together. apparatus, See under See under Needle. equipage, tools Needle.



238



Word



Category



DOUBLE-FACED



fabrics



DOUBLE-FACED JACQUARD



fabrics



DOUBLE-LOCKED seams, stitches CHAIN STITCH DOUBLE-PLUSH apparatus, LOOM equipage, tools



DOUBLESTITCHED SEAMFINISH



seams, stitches



DOUBLE-V TWILL



fabrics



DOUBLED SELVEDGE DOUBLED YARN



defects



DOUBLES



DOUBLING



fibers, filaments, yarns defects



processes, operations



Short Description description The term applied to fabric, The term applied to fabric, which can be worn on either side. which can be worn on either side. A weft-knitted A weft-knitted patterned ribpatterned rib- based fabric in which a different based fabric jacquard design appears on both sides of the fabric. See also Reverse jacquard. See Two-thread See Two-thread chain stitch. chain stitch. A loom in which A loom in which two pieces of two pieces of plush are woven one above the other. plush are woven one above the other. A finish for the A finish for the raw edges of a plain seam, in which another raw edges of a row of machine stitching is plain seam, in made through both seam which another row of machine allowances placed together. A stitching is made double-stitched seam-finish is made by machine stitching through both through both seam allowances seam together approximately 3 mm allowances placed together away from the original seam line within the seam allowance, forcing the seam allowance to be turned only in one direction. A narrow fabric A narrow fabric weave in which weave there are two repeats of a herringbone pattern in the width of the fabric. See Curled See Curled selvedge. selvedge. See Folded See Folded yarn. yarn. Yarn defect Yarn defect, caused by forming a yarn from more than the required number of component strands. The operation of 1. The operation of combining combining two two or more strands, without or more strands, twisting, to average the without twisting unevenness and the variations



239



Word



Category



Short description



DOUBLING DEFECT



defects



Yarn defect



DOUPION



fabrics



Also called Dupion. Fabric with an uneven surface and rough texture made from yarns that are irregular in thickness.



DOWLAS



fabrics



Originally, a plain-woven coarse linen fabric used for clothing.



DOWN



fibers, filaments, yarns



The fine, soft plumage of ducks and other waterfowl



Description of each strand. 2. A yarn in which two or more single yarns are twisted together in one operation. The initial twist and resultant doubling twist quoted. Doubling is sometimes referred to as Twisting. Yarn defect, caused by forming a yarn from more than the required number of component strands. Also called Dupion. Fabric with an uneven surface and rough texture made from yarns that are irregular in thickness. Originally the term was used to describe the particular type of silk yarn, which was spun from the silk of two cocoons that had nested together. The two silks were not separated in spinning and were therefore uneven. Doupion was originally made from silk, but now it may also be made from viscose, acetate and other synthetic yarns by manufacturing them in uneven thickness. Doupions usually made as firm, medium-weight fabrics of plain weave. Used for women’s summer suits, wedding outfits, etc. Originally, a plain-woven coarse linen fabric used for clothing. Now, the term refers to a lowquality cotton fabric made of coarse rough-spun yarn, finished to imitate linen and used for towels, aprons, etc The fine, soft plumage of ducks and other waterfowl, consisting of light fluffy filaments having at least two barbs attached; i.e. barbs growing from the quill point but without a quill shaft. Used for pillows, quilts,



240



Word DOWN FIBRES



Category



fibers, filaments, Detached barbs yarns from down



DOWN PROOF CAMBRIC



fabrics



DOWN TWISTING



processes, operations ³



DP



Short description



DRAFT



processes, operations



DRAFTING



processes, operations



DRAG



general



DRAGGED-IN FILLING DRAGGING END



defects defects



Cream or white plain weave cotton fabric of cambric weight with a waxed or glazed surface



Description paddings, etc. Detached barbs from down; plumules and detached barbs from the basal end of waterfowl feather quill shafts that are indistinguishable from the barbs of down. Cream or white plain weave cotton fabric of cambric weight with a waxed or glazed surface to make it feather-or down proof. Used for pillow coverings, cushion covers, duvet covers, mattress covers. See under Ring twisting.



See under Ring twisting. See Degree of See Degree of polymerisation polymerisation To reduce the 1. To reduce the linear density of a fibrous assembly by linear density of drawing. a fibrous assembly by 2. During drafting, the degree of attenuation calculated either as drawing the ratio of the input to output linear densities, or as the ratio of the surface speeds of the output and input machine compo-nents which bring about drafting. 3. A constructed plan of a garment; the application of body or garment measurements to a flat plane. See Draughting. 1. Operation of attenuating or increasing the length per unit weight of slivers, rovings, etc. 2. The order in which threads are drawn through the heald eyes before weaving. See also Draw-ing-in. 3. See Draughting. See Fibre See Fibre cohesion cohesion See Pulled-in See Pulled-in filling filling Fabric defect Fabric defect. One or several



241



Word



DRALON



Category



fibers, filaments, Trade name for yarns an acrylic fibre which is mothproof, has good resistance to acids and alkalis and is unaffected by sunlight.



DRAPE



fabrics



DRAPEMETER



apparatus, equipage, tools fabrics



DRAPERY



DRAUGHTING



DRAW CORD



Short description



The way a fabric falls when hung.



See under Drape. Decorative fabrics for the home processes, In lace operations production, the conversion of a design into diagrammatic form garments, made- A cord, which ups, assemblies passes through a channel and allows the



Description wales in a warp-knitted fabric in which the laps appear shorter than those in the adjacent normal wales. It is usually caused by excessive tension in one or more warp yarns. Trade name for an acrylic fibre which is mothproof, has good resistance to acids and alkalis and is unaffected by sunlight. Washable, but absorbs hardly any moisture and is therefore quick-drying. Does not shrink or felt or pill. May be blended with other fibres. Used for upholstery and furnishings, often as pile fabrics, and for net curtaining. See also Acrylic. The way a fabric falls when hung. The quality of a fabric, which permits it to mould sufficiently to hang in pleasing form and graceful folds when hung or arranged in different positions. The draping quality varies with the structure, composition and finish of the fabric. It is indicative of the flexibility and suppleness of a fabric. Draping quality can be measured by a device called the Drapemeter See under Drape. Decorative fabrics for the home



In lace production, the conversion of a design into diagrammatic form preparatory to punching of jacquard cards, or assembly of pattern chains, or preparation of magnetic tape. A cord, which passes through a channel and allows the garment to be gathered.



242 Short Description description garment to be gathered. Machine draw ratio: In a DRAW RATIO fibers, filaments, Machine draw yarns ratio, True draw drawing process, the ratio of the peripheral speed of the draw ratio, Residual roller to that of the feed roller. draw ratio, True draw ratio: In a drawing Natural draw process, the ratio of the linear ratio density of the undrawn yarn to that of the drawn yarn. Residual draw ratio: The draw ratio required, in draw texturing, to convert a partially oriented yarn into a commercially acceptable product. Natural draw ratio: The ratio of the cross-sectional areas of a filament before and after the neck when a synthetic filament or film draws at a neck DRAW SPINNING processes, A process for A process for spinning partially operations spinning partially or highly oriented filaments in or highly which the orientation is oriented introduced prior to the first filaments forwarding or collecting device. See also Spin-drawing and High-speed spinning. A process in which the drawing DRAW processes, A process in stage of man-made yarn TEXTURING operations which the drawing stage of manufacture is combined with the texturing process on a man-made yarn single machine. The drawing manufacture is combined with and texturing stages may take place in separate, usually the texturing consecutive, zones of a process on a machine (sequential drawsingle machine. texturing) or together in the same zone (simultaneous drawtexturing). 1. IN KNITTING. A thread DRAW THREAD accessories A thread introduced during knitting which, introduced during knitting on removal, separates articles that have been knitted as a which, on succession of connected units. removal, 2. IN LACE. Removable threads separates included in the construction of articles that lace either to act as a temporary have been Word



Category



243



Word



Category



DRAW TWIST



processes, operations



DRAW-BACK



defects



DRAW-DOWN



processes, operations processes, operations



DRAW-WIND



DRAWING



processes, operations, general



Short Description description knitted as a support for certain parts of the succession of pattern or to hold together connected units. narrow widths or units, that are sepa-rated subsequently by their removal. To orient a filament yarn by To orient a filament yarn by drawing it and then to twist it in integrated sequential stages. drawing it and then to twist it in integrated sequential stages. Also called Also called Hitch-back. Fabric Hitch-back. defect. A weave distortion Fabric defect characterised by tight and slack places in the same warp yarn, caused by excessive tension gradually applied by some abnormal restriction, and when the restriction is removed, the excess slack is woven into the fabric. Usually the ends are broken. See Spin-stretch See Spin-stretch ratio¡ ratio To orient a filament yarn by To orient a filament yarn by drawing it, and then to wind it to drawing it, and form a package in an integrated then to wind it to process without imparting twist. form a package in an integrated process without imparting twist IN SPINNING, 1. IN SPINNING, the operation the operation of of blending slivers, levelling blending slivers them and drafting them to form rov-ings. See also Yarn spinning. 2. IN SYNTHETIC FILAMENTS AND FILMS, the stretching to near the limit of plastic flow of syn-thetic filaments or films of relatively low molecular orientation. This process orients the molecular chains in the direction of stretching. 3. IN SEWING, the stitching



244



Word



Category



DRAWING, COLD



processes, operations



DRAWING, HOT



processes, operations



DRAWING-IN



Short description



The drawing of synthetic filaments or films without the intentional application of external heat



A term applied to the drawing of synthetic filaments or films processes, IN WEAVING. operations, The process of seams, stitches drawing the threads of the warp through the eyes of the healds and the dents of the reed.



DRAWN PIECE



fabrics



DRAWN SELVEDGE DRAWN WORK



defects processes, operations



Description together of two edges to create the appearance of being seamed in the ordinary way. Performed by alternately passing the needle through each folded edge and interlining to draw the two edges close together The drawing of synthetic filaments or films without the intentional application of external heat. Free drawing of filaments or films at a neck is also referred to as a cold drawing even though this may be carried out in a heated environment. A term applied to the drawing of synthetic filaments or films with the intentional application of heat.



1. IN WEAVING. The process of drawing the threads of the warp through the eyes of the healds and the dents of the reed. The operation thus includes that of reeding. 2. IN SEWING. A running stitch drawn to achieve gathering or gauging of the material. There is also a form of drawing-in used for the purpose of holding folds in various forms on garments as in the gowns of barristers, children’s frocks, etc A piece of fabric A piece of fabric in which, as a in which, as a result of distortion during some result of process subsequent to weaving, distortion the warp yarns are not at right angles to the weft yarns. See Tight See Tight selvedge. selvedge. A method of A method of decorating fabrics decorating by drawing out certain threads fabrics by and fastening the remaining drawing out threads with fancy stitches into



245



Word



Category



DRAWN YARN



fibers, filaments, yarns



DRAWN-PILE FINISH



processes, operations



DRESDEN



fabrics



DRESDEN POINT LACE



fabrics



DRESS



garments, madeups, assemblies, processes, operations



DRESS CAREER garments, madeAPPAREL ups, assemblies



Short Description description certain threads patterns. Also made by drawing some of the threads of the and fastening fabric to one side, leaving the remaining others or replacing drawn threads with threads by others of different fancy stitches into patterns. colours. Linen fabric is popular for this type of work. Extruded yarn that has been Extruded yarn subjected to a stretching or that has been drawing process to orient the subjected to a stretching or long-chain molecules, which it is composed of. See also drawing process Orientation. Also called LaidAlso called Laid-pile finish. pile finish. Process of giving a finish to textile fabrics to produce a surface nap or pile that is laid in one direction. The effect is usually produced by raising the wet or damp fabric. See also Dress-face finish. A small floral A small floral design generally design generally on silk fabrics usually produced on silk fabrics by printed warps, in imitation of delicate Dresden China. Fine linen fabric Fine linen fabric with threads withdrawn and embroidered to form a square mesh design. Clothing, 1. Clothing, particularly particularly outerwear outerwea 2. A garment worn by women and children 3. To finish fabric 4. ‘To take dress’ from men’s trousers is to cut a section from one side to make it fit as closely as the other. Career apparel which is not Career apparel generally subject to abusive which is not wear and for which appearance generally is a more important attribute subject to than durability. abusive wear and for which Fabrics for dress career apparel are usually categorised as appearance is a follows: more important attribute than I. Heavy weight fabrics, having weight (mass) of 200 g/m2 and durability.



246



Word



Category



Short description



DRESS GLOVE



garments, madeups, assemblies



A covering for the hand



DRESS SHIRT



garments, madeups, assemblies



A shirt made with a specific collar size



DRESS-FACE FINISH



processes, operations



In wool fabrics, a finish characterised by a closely cropped surface and high lustre.



DRESSER SIZING



processes, operations processes, operations



See under Scotch dressing. IN WARP PREPARATION. The operation of assembling of yarns from a ball warp, beam warp, or chain



DRESSING



Description above, for which the typical end-uses are: pants, suits, waiter-type jackets, vests, coveralls, etc. II. Medium weight fabrics, having weight (mass) of 150 g/m2 and above but less than 200 g/m2, for which the typical end-uses are: pants, jackets, dresses, shirts, blouse, gowns, smocks, lab coats, etc. III. Light weight fabrics, having weight (mass) below 150 g/m2, for which the typical end-uses are: tops (shirts and blouses), dresses, etc. See Career apparel and Vocational career apparel A covering for the hand, often extending part way up the arm, worn primarily for formal or dress-type occasions. 1. FOR BOYS. A shirt made with a specific collar size or numerical size and designed to be worn with a tie and jacket. 2. FOR MEN. A shirt made with a specific collar size and sleeve length where appropriate, and designed to be worn with a tie and jacket. In wool fabrics, a finish characterised by a closely cropped surface and high lustre. This is obtained partly by raising and cropping and partly by the high degree of regularity of the lie of the fibres. See under Scotch dressing. 1. IN WARP PREPARATION. The operation of assembling of yarns from a ball warp, beam warp, or chain warp on a beam immediately prior to weaving. See also Scotch dressing and Yorkshire dressing.



247



Word



Category



Short description warp



DRILL



fabrics



A strong, thick, hardwearing twill weave fabric, usually cotton, similar to denim but better in quality and smoother in appearance, made in various weights.



DRILLING



processes, operations



Marking key positions such as pockets and darts



DRIP-DRY



processes, operations



A method of drying washand-wear fabrics.



DROP



DROP FEED



Description 2. IN LACE. The operation of stretching lace, net, or lacefurnishing products to size, and then drying after the application of stiffening or softening agents. The stretching and drying may be carried out on either a running stenter or a stationary frame. 3. See Sizing. A strong, thick, hardwearing twill weave fabric, usually cotton, similar to denim but better in quality and smoother in appearance, made in various weights. Made in warp faced twill weaves such as 3 x 1, and 2 x 1, as in denim but also made in satin weave. The commonest fabric known as drill is made in white, khaki and various plain dark working colours and in striped styles for protective clothing, tropical clothing, uniforms, and for leisure wear. Some cotton fabrics sold as gaberdines for dress wear are actually drills. Marking key positions such as pockets and darts through all thickness of a lay by use of a drilling machine, or similar machine with a hollow needle. A method of drying wash-andwear fabrics. After washing, garment is hung up dripping wet and allowed to drain. Usually requires little or no ironing after drying in this manner. That part of a bedcovering that hangs perpendicular to the floor.



garments, made- That part of a ups, assemblies bedcovering that hangs perpendicular to the floor. apparatus, In sewing In sewing machine, a feed that equipage, tools machine, a feed alternately engages and



248



Word



DROP LOOP



DROP PLY



Short description that alternately engages and disengages the underside of the material. garments, madeA method of ups, assemblies lowering the belt loop below the top of the trouser waist band (usually 1 to 2 cm.) or dress waist defects Fabric defect. Category



DROP SHOULDER garments, madeups, assemblies



The shape of the junction between the sleeve and the body of a garment



DROP WIRE



apparatus, equipage, tools



Also called Dropper.



DROPPED PICK



defects



Fabric defect, major.



DROPPED STITCHES



defects



Fabric defect, major, in knitted fabric.



Description disengages the underside of the material.



A method of lowering the belt loop below the top of the trouser waist band (usually 1 to 2 cm.) or dress waist. This method prevents the belt from riding above the waist.



Fabric defect. Warp or weft yarn does not have the correct or uniform number of plies; caused by faulty twisting or mixed bobbins. The shape of the junction between the sleeve and the body of a garment, where the junction runs between the underarm point and a position below the extreme end of the shoulder, i.e. on the upper arm itself Also called Dropper. One of a series of wire or metal strips suspended on individual warp threads during warping or weaving. When the thread breaks, the drop wire falls, causing the ma-chine to stop. Fabric defect, major. The defect is caused by the weft insertion mechanism on a shuttleless loom not holding the weft yarn resulting in the weft to be woven without tension. The weft yarn then is woven into the yarn appearing as kinky. There will also be areas of End-out Fabric defect, major, in knitted fabric. An unknitted stitch, resulting from malfunctioning needle or jack. Will appear as holes or missing stitches. See



249



Word DROPPER



Category



Short description



apparatus, equipage, tools ³ processes, operations



See Drop wire



DRY FINISHING



processes, operations



A general term, applied to any fabric finishing process



DRY HEATSETTING DRY SPINNING



processes, operations processes, operations



DRUG DRY BEATING



DRY TAPING DRY-COMBED TOP



DRY-LAID NONWOVEN



DRY-LAYING



DRY-SPUN



See Mordant. See also Beating.



Description also Run. See Drop wire See Mordant. A finishing process consisting of gently brushing fabrics on a teazle gig. See also Beating. A general term, applied to any fabric finishing process which is accomplished in a dry state, e.g. brushing, napping, shearing, gigging, perching, specking, burling, sewing, and pressing. See under Heat-setting.



See under Heatsetting. In man-made fibre production, In man-made fibre production, the process of extruding the solution of a fibre-forming the process of polymer through a spinneret extruding the into a hot chamber, heated by solution of a steam or hot air; the solvent fibre-forming polymer through evaporates leaving the solid filaments. See also Wet a spinneret spinning and Melt spinning processes, See under See under Scotch dressing. operations Scotch dressing. A wool top containing not more fibers, filaments, A wool top yarns containing not than 1 % of fatty matter based more than 1 % on the oven-dry fat-free weight. The standard regain of a dryof fatty matter combed top is 18.25 % based based on the on the combined weight of oven-dry fat-free oven-dry fat-free wool and the weight. fatty matter A fabric made from a web or fabrics A fabric made batt by dry laying, followed by from a web or any type of bonding process batt by dry laying A process for forming web or processes, A process for operations forming web or batt of staple fibres by carding and/or air laying. batt of staple fibres fibers, filaments, A man-made 1. A worsted yarn produced yarns filament from a dry-combed top or of produced by dry synthetic or blended yarns spun



250



Word



DRYCLEANING



DRYER CREASES



DRYING CYLINDER



DUCHESSE LACE



Category



Short description spinning.



Description



on similar machinery. 2. A coarse flax yarn spun from air-dry roving. See also Wetspun. 3. A man-made filament produced by dry spinning. The process was originally processes, The process known as French cleaning. To operations was originally remove grease, oil, and dirt known as French cleaning. from garments or fabrics by treating them in an organic solvent, as distinct from aqueous liquors. Some of the suitable solvents are white spirit, trichloroethylene and tetrachloroethylene (perchloroethylene). The process also includes adding detergent and moisture to the solvent to 75 % relative humidity, and hot tumble drying to 71° C (160° F). This process consists of cleaning, rinsing, spinning and drying. defects Sharp folds or Sharp folds or lines running in lines running in any direction in a laundered or any direction in dried textile specimen. Dryer a laundered or creases are unintended result of restricted movement of the dried textile textile specimens in the washer specimen or the dryer Heated, rotating hollow apparatus, Heated, rotating cylinder(s) around which textile equipage, tools hollow material is passed in contact to cylinder(s) around which dry it. It may consist of a series of cylinders with which the textile material is material is in contact on passed in contact to dry it. alternate faces or, by the use of auxiliary rollers, one face only of the material is arranged to touch the surface of the cylinder. Large single cylinders are also used for faced cloths, to avoid flattening the surface or raised threads on one side, and for drying backfilled cloths fabrics A bar lace with a A bar lace with a design of



251



Word



Category



Short description design of bands or tapes



DUCHESSE SATIN DUCK



fabrics fabrics



See under Satin. A compact, firm, heavy fabric of canvas-like appearance made from cotton or linen in plain weave.



DUCK EYE DUFFEL



defects fabrics



See Pinhole. Also called Duffle. Originally made in Duffel, Antwerp



DUFFLE DULL



Description bands or tapes, which is very fine and is worked with fine threads. Very old type of bobbin lace. See under Satin. A compact, firm, heavy fabric of canvas-like appearance made from cotton or linen in plain weave. The warp yarns are in pairs and form a distinctive effect. Used for sails, awnings, etc. See also Flat duck, Plied yarn duck and Canvas. See Pinhole. Also called Duffle. Originally made in Duffel, Antwerp. A heavy low-grade fabric, napped on both sides, made from woollen yarn, generally made up for short coats referred to as duffel coats. See also Flushing See Duffel. 1. Lacking in lustre. 2. See under Delustred. See Delustred



fabrics See Duffel. general, fibers, See under filaments, yarns Delustred. DULL RAYON fibers, filaments, See Delustred yarns DULLNESS seams, stitches it is the opposite That colour quality, an increase of Bright in which is comparable to the effect of the addition of a small quantity of neutral grey colorant; it is the opposite of Bright DUMMY apparatus, A padded frame, A padded frame, shaped like a equipage, tools shaped like a human torso, usually mounted human torso, on a pedestal. A tailor’s or usually mounted dressmaker’s stand See Bust. on a pedestal DUMMY-SHUTTLE apparatus, See Missile See Missile Loom under equipage, tools Loom under Shuttleless looms. Shuttleless looms. 1. FABRIC. Hardwearing, 3/1 or DUNGAREE fabrics, garments, FABRIC. 2/1 cotton twill fabric similar to made-ups, Hardwearing, assemblies 3/1 or 2/1 cotton denim, but the warp and the weft are usually in the same twill fabric similar to denim, colour. Some are piece dyed, but the warp and but better qualities are made



252



Word



DUNGING



Category



processes, operations



Short description the weft are usually in the same colour



Description from dyed warp and weft yarns. Used for overalls, jeans, dungarees and children’s clothes. See also Denim. 2. GARMENT. Trousers made from denim and designed for general heavy work wear In dyeing and printing, the removal of surplus mordant by means of immersion in a bath of dung; old method. See Doupion. A method of printing in which both sides of the cloth receive the pattern; either at the same time or one side immediately after the other. See under Fibre properties.



In dyeing and printing, the removal of surplus mordant DUPION fabrics See Doupion. DUPLEX processes, A method of PRINTING operations printing in which both sides of the cloth receive the pattern DURABILITY fibers, filaments, See under Fibre yarns properties. A finish which will retain its DURABLE FINISH processes, A finish which characteristics and remain operations will retain its characteristics inherent, to a large degree, in the fabric through ordinary and remain household washings, wet inherent cleaning and dry cleaning for the life of the goods. DURABLE processes, A fabric finish, A fabric finish, that imparts a GLAZING operations that imparts a reasonably durable glazing to reasonably cottons, by the use of synthetic durable glazing resins. to cottons, A finishing treatment designed DURABLE PRESS fabrics, garments, A finishing to impart to a textile material or made-ups, treatment garment the ability to retain assemblies designed to substantially the specific impart to a contours including shape, textile material creases, pressed-in pleats, or garment the seams, and unwrinkled ability to retain appearance during normal substantially the usage, washing and/or dry specific contours cleaning. The treatment may involve the use of synthetic resin which may be applied and cured either be-fore or after fabrication of a garment, or, in the case of



253



Word



Category



Short description



Description



textiles composed of heatsettable fibres, high temperature pressing. See also Permanent press. DURACOLOUR processes, Trade name for Trade name for a process operations a process applied to curtain fabrics which applied to guarantees that they will not curtain fabrics fade. . DURAFILL fibers, filaments, The trade name The trade name for a strong viscose staple fibre, which is yarns for a strong made extra strong. viscose staple fibre DUST RESISTANT fabrics A fabric very A fabric very densely and tightly densely and woven or chemically treated so tightly woven that it resists dust penetration. DUST RUFFLE accessories A fabric which 1. A fabric which lies flat over has a pleated, the box spring under the tucked, or mattress on a bed, and gather drop to 2. A fabric which has a pleated, the floor tucked, or gather drop to the floor. DUSTING general The tendency of The tendency of particles of particles of sufficiently low mass to become sufficiently low airborne when a powder mass to become material is handled or agitated. airborne DUSTING OFF processes, The involuntary The involuntary removal of operations removal of particulate material (e.g. size) particulate from yarn during processing. material (e.g. size) from yarn DUTCH TAPE accessories A tape made A tape made from linen warp from linen warp and cotton weft, sometimes with and cotton weft cotton selvedges. Similar to doeskin but more DUVETYNE fabrics Similar to velvety and lighter in weight. doeskin but The soft, velvet-like surface is more velvety and lighter in made by napping, then shearing and brushing, the right side. weight. The weave is twill and usually wool but may be other fibres too. Used for women’s clothes and hats. DYE ³ A colorant A colorant applied to or formed applied to or in a substrate, via the formed in a molecularly dispersed state,



254



Word



Category



DYE AFFINITY DYE FIXING AGENT



³ fabrics



DYE MARK DYE SPOT DYE STAIN



defects ³ defects



DYE STREAK



defects



DYE-BOARDING



processes,



Short Description description substrate, via which exhibits some degree of performance. A substance, the molecularly which can be applied to a dispersed state, material and brings about a which exhibits permanent change in the some degree of original colour of that material. performance. Dyes may be either natural or synthetic and differ in effectiveness and methods of application. There are many classes of dyes. Refer for individual class of dye under their particular class name See Affinity See Affinity A substance, A substance, generally organic, applied to a dyed or printed generally organic, applied material to improve its fastness to wet treatments. to a dyed or printed material to improve its fastness to wet treatments. See Dye streak. See Dye streak. See Dye streak. See Dye streak. An area of An area of unlimited unlimited discoloration due to unven discoloration absorption of a colorant. Dyeing/printing Dyeing/printing defect. Also defect. Also called Dye mark. called Dye mark. 1. DYEING DEFECT. An unintended irregular discoloration in a fabric, resulting due to uneven absorption of a colorant during dyeing. 2. PRINTING DEFECT. An unintended irregular discoloration in a fabric, resulting from a bent or damaged doctor blade or a doctor blade not cleaned properly during printing. Usually it will ap-pear as a long streak until operator notices the problem See under See under Boarding.



255



Word



Category



DYE-PASTE DYED STYLE PRINTING



operations ³ processes, operations



DYEING



processes, operations



DYESTUFFS



³



Short Description description Boarding. See Print-paste. See Print-paste. A way of patterning cloth in A way of patterning cloth which the design is painted or printed in mordant and in which the subsequently dyed. Only those design is areas so mordanted take the painted or colour in a fast form. printed in mordant and subsequently dyed. Application of a Application of a dye to a dye to a substrate normally with the substrate intention of obtaining an even distribution throughout the substrate; the process of colouring fibres, yarns or fabrics. The name given The name given to materials, solutions, or matters that can to materials, colour textiles. solutions, or Dyestuffs may be classed matters that can colour textiles. according to their origin; animal dyes, vegetable dyes, mineral dyes, and synthetic. A dyestuff imparts coloration to the material onto which it is affixed, by the discriminate absorption of light, i.e. the dyestuff selectively retainin some of the wavelengths out of the light falling upon the surface. Hence, if a dye absorbs strongly at the red end of the spectrum, the reflected light will be of a bluish hue. Only a limited number of organic molecules have this property of absorbing light discriminately. Animal and vegetable dyes have always been used. But these dyes are limited in range and ap-plication of natural dyes need extensive pretreatments with mordants. Now most natural dyes have been replaced by synthetic dyes.



256



Word



Category



Short description



Description Dyestuffs are made from synthetic organic chemicals. These are called ‘dye intermediates’, as they are made from basic chemicals such as benzene, naphthalene, anthracene, etc. They are intermediates lying between basic chemicals and the final dyestuffs: Basic hemicals ® intermediates ® Dyestuffs The intermediates are substituted products of the of the basic chemicals obtained by introducing sulphonic, nitro, chloro, bromo, amino and other groups in place of hydrogen atoms of the basic chemicals. Many of the reactions such as sulphonation, nitration, chlorination, etc., result in the formation of more than one product, depending on the reaction conditions. When one of the de-sired intermediate is made, it is accompanied by some amount of other unintended intermedi-ates also. Thus, when the desired intermediate form a desired colour, the unintended intermediates form dyes of different but unintended colours too. If these by-products are formed in different amounts in different batches, there would be corresponding batch-tobatch variation in the hue of the resulting dyestuffs. However, the dyestuff manufacturer markets a commercial dyestuff having a standardised hue by adding a toning dyestuff to the batch. A commercial dyestuff of any particular manufacturer contains the principal colorant (formed from the main



257



Word



DYNEL



Category



Short description



fibers, filaments, Trade name for yarns a polyvinyl chloride type fibre, which has the advantage of being flameresistant.



Description intermedi-ate), an auxiliary colorant (formed from the impurity accompanying the main intermediate), and if necessary, a toning colorant. The commercial naming of dyestuffs is done in a systematic fashion which include the follow-ing details in sequential order: Producer’s brand name - Colour Designatory letters defining shade - Strength - and Physical form. Trade name for a polyvinyl chloride type fibre, which has the advantage of being flameresistant. It has a warm handle and bulks well, and is often used in fur fabrics. It is spun from a copolymer of vinyl chloride (60 %) and acrylonitrile (40 %). By definition it is a modacrylic fibre. See also Acrylic



E Word ECCENTRIC YARN



ÉCRU



EFFECT THREADS



Category fibers, filaments, yarns



Short description A type of fancy yarn.



Description A type of fancy yarn. It is an undulating gimp yarn, usually produced by binding an irregular yarn, such as a stripe or slub, in the direction opposite to the initial stage, to create graduated halfcircular loops along the compound yarn. The colour of fibres, yarns, The colour of fibres, yarns, fibers, or fabrics that have not or fabrics that have not been filaments, subjected to processes been subjected to yarns, processes affecting their affecting their natural colour. fabrics natural colour. fabrics In a fabric, yarns inserted In a fabric, yarns inserted to to form a surface effect or form a surface effect or



258 Word EGG SHELL FINISHING



EGYPTIAN COTTON



ELASTANE



Category



Short description Description enhance a pattern. enhance a pattern. processes, Creating a dappled finish Creating a dappled finish on operations on fabric by running it fabric by running it through through rollers rollers engraved with minute depressions and elevations, which break up the reflection of light. fibers, Yarn. Fine, top quality 1. Yarn. Fine, top quality filaments, cotton originally from the cotton originally from the Nile yarns, Nile region. region. A type of extra long fabrics staple cotton fibre. Average fibre length 38-44 mm.; lustrous, natural colour; to be bleached. 2. Fabric. Made from Egyptian cotton fibres. Plain weave soft cotton fabrics, may be plain or printed. Dyes well. Very strong and hardwearing, but soft to touch. Used for expensive baby clothes, blouses, summer dresses, nightwear. fibers, Generic name of a Generic name of a filaments, manufactured fibre, which manufactured fibre, which yarns stretches easily and has a stretches easily and has a high rate of recovery. high rate of recovery. It is composed of synthetic linear macromolecules having in the chain at least 85 % (by mass) of segmented polyurethane groups, and that rapidly reverts substantially to its unstretched length after extension to three times that length. Elastane fibres typically contain hard (highly inextensible) segments alternating with soft (highly extensible) segments in the molecular chain. All textile fibres possess some stretch, varying from the low stretch of flax and cotton to the high stretch of wool and nylon. Very few fibres stretch more than 50 % under any



259 Word



Category



Short description



ELASTIC FABRIC



fabrics



A textile fabric made from an elastomer either alone or in combination with other textile materials.



ELASTICITY



general



The property of material to deform (usually to elongate) in proportion to the load applied



ELASTODIENE FIBRE



fibers, filaments, yarns



A manufactured fibre composed of natural or synthetic polyisoprene



Description circumstances without breaking, and even then recovery is neither complete nor instantaneous. The high stretch and quick recovery of rubber has been integrated with normal textile use for a long time but the lack of durability of rubber, particularly to washing with synthetic detergents, was always disappointing. A textile fabric made from an elastomer either alone or in combination with other textile materials. At room temperature an elastic fabric will stretch under tension and will return quickly and forcibly to substantially its original dimensions and shape when tension is remocved. Elastic fabrics may be manufactured by weaving, braiding, knitting, or other processes. The property of material to deform (usually to elongate) in proportion to the load applied and to recover its original shape when the load is release, i.e. the property of a material by virtue of which it tends to recover its original size and shape immediately after removal of the force causing deformation. A manufactured fibre composed of natural or synthetic polyisoprene, or composed of one or more dienes polymerised with or without one or more vinyl monomers, and which, when stretched to three times its original length and released, recovers rapidly and substantially to its initial



260 Word



Category



Short description



ELASTOMERIC YARN



fibers, filaments, yarns



A yarn formed from an elastomer.



ELECTROSTATIC processes, FLOCKING operations



The process of applying flock to an adhesivecoated substrate in a highvoltage electrostatic field. ELECTROSTATIC processes, This is an experimental PRINTING operations textile printing technique.



ELONGATED TWILL



fabrics



Steep twills which run at an angle greater than 45º.



EMBOSSED SATIN



fabrics



Any satin-weave fabric that has a pattern impressed upon it.



EMBOSSING



processes, operations



A finishing process to produce a pattern on a fabric



Description length. A yarn formed from an elastomer. Elastomeric yarn may either be incorporated into fabric in the bare state or wrapped with relatively inextensible fibres. Wrapping is done by covering, core spinning or uptwisting. Elastan and elastodiene yarns are examples. The process of applying flock to an adhesive-coated substrate in a high-voltage electrostatic field. A plate with an elecrtostatic charge is positioned behind the fabric and a stencil to attract powdered inks into the fabric. Suitable dyes must be in powdered form. This is an experimental textile printing technique. Steep twills which run at an angle greater than 45º. These are ordinary twills, which are changed either by the weave or structure to produce the more vertical or horizontal twill. Term is sometimes used for twills with an angle less than 45º. Any satin-weave fabric that has a pattern impressed upon it. Usually only heavier satins are treated this way, and the embossing is now invariably permanent. Popular wedding-gown fabric. A finishing process to produce a pattern on a fabric by passing it through a calender in which a heated metal bowl engraved with the pattern works against a relatively soft bowl built up of compressed paper or cotton



261 Word



Category



Short description



EMBROIDERY



fabrics



Description came originally from an old English word meaning ‘border’



EMERIZED FABRIC



fabrics



A chamois or suede textured surface



EMERY CLOTH



fabrics



A strong cotton or linen fabric coated with fine, powdered emery.



EMULSION SPINNING



processes, The spinning of synthetic operations polymers in dispersed form



EMULSION THICKENING



chemicals, A thickening made from a textile suspension of white spirit auxiliaries in water. 1. In weaving. An fibers, filaments, individual warp thread. 2. In spinning, braiding. An yarns, individual strand. 3. In fabrics fabric. A length of finished fabric less than a



END



Description on a metal centre. Description came originally from an old English word meaning ‘border’, and was used for early decoration on ecclesiastical robes, which were, presumably, worked in border designs. Now used for decorative fabrics, mostly lightweight, on which embroidery is worked in contrasting or matching colours, often in yarn of a different fibre from the fabric, including metal, which may create washing and pressing problems. The fabrics vary considerably in fibre content and weight and also in width. Some may be washable but most are not. Used mainly for saris and eveningwear. A chamois or suede textured surface produced by an emery-covered roller on Worsted, Serge, etc. A strong cotton or linen fabric coated with fine, powdered emery. Used for abrasive purposes and polishing. The spinning of synthetic polymers in dispersed form, then heating to bring together the dispersed (separated) particles. Generally a matrix polymer provides support until the process is complete. A thickening made from a suspension of white spirit in water. 1. In weaving. An individual warp thread. 2. In spinning, braiding. An individual strand. 3. In fabric. A length of finished fabric less than a customary unit (piece) in



262 Word



Short description customary unit (piece) in length, or sometimes a very short length remnant of fabric. 4. In finishing. (a) Each passage of a length of fabric through a machine, e.g. in jig dyeing. (b) A joint between pieces of fabric due, e.g. to damage or short lengths in weaving or damage in bleaching, dyeing, or finishing. END-USE general The final use for which a fibre, fabric, or finish is intended. ENGRAVING processes, In printing: 1. The incising operations of lines in a metal or other surface by means of a Graver or Burin. 2. In the textile trade this term is still used even when the pattern rollers are produced by etching or by pressure from the raised surface of a ‘mill’ in engraving machine ENTANGLEMENT fibers, The extent or degree to filaments, which the filaments in a yarns yarn are interlocked ENZYMES



Category



chemicals, These are complex textile nitrogenous substances of auxiliaries proteinaceous type, which catalyse various reactions of a biochemical nature.



Description length, or sometimes a very short length remnant of fabric. 4. In finishing. (a) Each passage of a length of fabric through a machine, e.g. in jig dyeing. (b) A joint between pieces of fabric due, e.g. to damage or short lengths in weaving or damage in bleaching, dyeing, or finishing.



The final use for which a fibre, fabric, or finish is intended. In printing: 1. The incising of lines in a metal or other surface by means of a Graver or Burin. 2. In the textile trade this term is still used even when the pattern rollers are produced by etching or by pressure from the raised surface of a ‘mill’ in engraving machine The extent or degree to which the filaments in a yarn are interlocked and cannot be readily separated. Enzymes, despite their derivation from living materials, are not living organisms themselves. These are complex nitrogenous substances of proteinaceous type, which catalyse various reactions of a biochemical nature. Some of these reactions take place in living organisms, but others occur in non-living organisms. There are different types of enzymes, e.g. those enzymes which might be of use in detergents; viz. proteases



263 Word



ENZYMING



EPITROPIC FIBRES



Category



Short description



Description which break down proteins to amino acids, or intermediate compounds, amylases which break down starches, lipases which attack fats, and oils, etc., cellulases which break down cellulosic materials and pectases which hydrolyse pectins. Enzymes are relatively cost-effective, pollution-free means of treating cellulosic fabrics for dehairing, pill-preventing and handle modification. Many enzyme preparations have been developed for various textile processes, e.g. those used in the desizing process, those used in denim ‘stone wash’ (biostoning) and acid patching process to cut partially and/or completely the use of pumice stones or ceramic pebbles, or those used in enzymatic finishing process (biofinishing), and in surface modification (biopolishing) of smoothening fabric surface for extra soft handle or develop faded looks Treatment with one of a processes, Treatment with one of a operations series of complex organic series of complex organic substances that cause substances that cause chemical breakdown of the chemical breakdown of impurities in cotton cloth. the impurities in cotton cloth. These are fibres, which fibers, These are fibres, which filaments, conduct electricity and can conduct electricity and can thus be used to produce yarns thus be used to produce fabrics, which never develop fabrics, which never a high static charge. In an develop a high static epitropic fibre very fine charge. particles of carbon, a good electrical conductor, are embedded in the surface of synthetic fibres. Epitropic fibres are thus black due to



264 Word



Category



ÉPONGE



fabrics



Short description



Description the carbon, but only very small quantities- sometimes as little as one part in 500 of epitropic fibre are required to conduct away static, they are not easily seen. Nylon and polyester are available in epitropic form. The epitropic nylon can be used in carpets to prevent static build-up and the modified polyester is suitable for industrial clothing where there is a danger of explosion. Woollen or cotton fabric. Woollen or cotton fabric. Sometimes open-textured, and as the name implies, spongy to feel, and is light in weight in comparison with its thickness. Used for dresses, children’s dresses, robes, and sports shirts.



F Word FABRIC



FABRIC AIRCONDITIONING



Category fabrics



Short description Description An assembly of An assembly of fibres and/or fibres and/or yarns, yarns, which is generally in a which is generally in sheet-like form. Also known a sheet-like form as cloth. A planar structure consisting of yarns or fibres. There are different types of fabric based on their manufacturing processes, mainly Woven, Knitted, Braided, Lace (or Net), Felt and Non-woven processes, A chemical process A chemical process in which operations in which short fuzzy short fuzzy fibres are sealed fibres are sealed into into a yarn or are removed from the cloth to make the a yarn or are fabric more porous. The removed from the strength of the fabric is not cloth to make the impaired. A porous fabric fabric more porous.



265 Word



Category



Short description



FABRIC CONSTRUCTION



fabrics



FABRIC COUNT FABRIC DESIGN



fabrics fabrics



FABRIC DIP



³



FABRIC EXTENSION



fabrics



The term describes the organisation of components and in weaving it describes the weave. See Count in fabric. See Design in fabrics. In tyre fabrics, a chemical composition that is applied to a textile cord or fabric to improve its adhesion to rubber compounds The amount by which a fabric extends



FABRIC FINISH FABRIC FINISHING



Description permits a circulation of air and therefore is cooler. Also called Fabric structure. The term describes the organisation of components and in weaving it describes the weave. See Count in fabric.. See Design in fabrics. In tyre fabrics, a chemical composition that is applied to a textile cord or fabric to improve its adhesion to rubber compounds



The amount by which a fabric extends, usually under load and in the direction of that load. processes, See Fabric finishing. See Fabric finishing. operations Chemical and other processes, Chemical and other operations treatments used to treatments used to modify the modify the fabric to fabric to make it more capable of fulfilling its function. The make it more term is used to cover all capable of fulfilling operations following its function bleaching, dyeing or printing. Some of the important finishing processes are Calendering, Brushing, Raising, Starching, etc. Other special finishes have been devised to make a fabric more attractive, to give it some desirable property it would not otherwise possess, or to correct some defect in it. There are many types of finishes, which alter the fabric appearance, alter the handle of the fabric alter the draping quality of the fabric, help the fabric to keep its size and shape or make it more



266 Word



Category



FABRIC LENGTH



fabrics



FABRIC PERFORMANCE CHARACTERISTICS



fabrics



Short description



Description serviceable. The distance from The distance from one end of one end of a fabric to a fabric to the other measured the other parallel to the side edge of the fabric while it is under zero tension and is free of folds or wrinkles. The performance The performance specification requirements for fabrics, specification meant for various end uses, requirements for are usually guided by the fabrics, meant for internationally approved various end uses, ‘Standard performance are usually guided by the internationally specifications’. Generally, the main performance approved ‘Standard characteristics which, are performance tested on fabrics are: specifications’. Absorbency, Bow and skewness, Breaking strength (in both directions), Bursting strength (in both directions), Colourfastness to burnt gas fumes, Colourfastness to crocking, Colourfastness to chlorinated pool water, Colourfastness to drycleaning, Colourfastness to frosting (flat abrasion)m, Colourfastness to laundering, Colourfastness to light, Colourfastness to ozone, Colourfastness to perspiration, Colourfastness to sea water, Colourfastness to solvent, Colourfastness to water, Dimensional change to dry-cleaning, Dimensional change to laundering, Dimensional change to pressing, Distortion of yarn, Durability of back coating, Fabric appearance rating, Flammability, Laundered appearance, Light degradation, Non-fibrous material, Pilling resistance, Retention of hand, Retention of character, Retention of appearance, Soil release,



267 Word



Category



FABRIC PERFORMANCE CRTS



fabrics



Short description



Description Surface abrasion, Tear strength (in both directions), Thermal transmittance, Water repellence, Water resistance, Yarn distortion and yarn slippage resistance. The performance The performance specification requirements for fabrics, specification meant for various end uses, requirements for are usually guided by the fabrics, meant for internationally approved various end uses, ‘Standard performance are usually guided by the internationally specifications’. Generally, the main performance approved ‘Standard characteristics which, are performance tested on fabrics are: specifications’ Absorbency Bow and skewness Breaking strength (in both directions) Bursting strength (in both directions) Colourfastness to burnt gas fumes Colourfastness to crocking Colourfastness to chlorinated pool water Colourfastness to dry-cleaning Colourfastness to frosting (flat abrasion) Colourfastness to laundering Colourfastness to light Colourfastness to ozone Colourfastness to perspiration Colourfastness to sea water Colourfastness to solvent Colourfastness to water Dimensional change to drycleaning Dimensional change to laundering Dimensional change to pressing Distortion of yarn Durability of back coating Fabric appearance rating Flammability Laundered appearance Light degradation



268 Word



Category



Short description



FABRIC PORES



fabrics



Orifices in the fabric.



FABRIC ROOF SYSTEM



garments, made-ups, assemblies



A system of coated fabric or laminated fabric along with support cables



FABRIC SOFTNERS chemicals, textile auxiliaries



FABRIC STABILITY



fabrics



FABRIC STRETCH



fabrics



FABRIC



fabrics



Description Non-fibrous material Pilling resistance Retention of hand Retention of character Retention of appearance Soil release Surface abrasion Tear strength (in both directions) Thermal transmittance Water repellence Water resistance Yarn distortion yarn slippage resistance Orifices in the fabric. Open pores make for absorbency; when pores become closed with soil, absorbency is affected. A system of coated fabric or laminated fabric along with support cables, edge ropes, clamps, neoprene, roof drains, arch wear strips, and anchor bolts that constitutes the outside top covering of a building. Chemical compounds usually added to the final rinse, for improving the soft feel of fabrics



Chemical compounds usually added to the final rinse, for improving the soft feel of fabrics In fabrics, the property In fabrics, the property denoting the denoting the ability to resist slippage of yarn segments in ability to resist one direction over yarn slippage of yarn segments in the opposite segments in one direction. (Compare Stable direction over yarn fabric.) segments in the opposite direction. (Compare Stable fabric.) The increase in The increase in length of a length of a specimen specimen of a fabric resulting of a fabric from a load applied under specified condi-tions. See Fabric See Fabric construction.



269 Word STRUCTURE FABRIC WEIGHT



Category



FABRIC WEIGHT CONVERSION FORMULA FABRIC WIDTH



fabrics



fabrics



fabrics



Short description construction. Mass per unit area



See under Fabric weight.



Description Mass per unit area expressed in grams per square metre (ounces per square yard), grams per linear metre (ounces per linear yard), or inversely as meters per kilogram (linear yards per pound), or square meters per kilogram (square yards per pound). FACE I That side of a fabric, which is intended to be shown by reason of weave or finish, presents a better appearance. In many fabrics, especially industrial ones there are no distinction between face and back. See under Fabric weight.



1. WIDTH OF A FABRIC. It is WIDTH OF A the distance from the outer FABRIC. It is the edge of one selvedge to the distance from the outer edge of the other outer edge of one selvedge, measured selvedge to the outer perpendicular to the edge of the other selvedges while the fabrics is selvedge held under zero tension and is free of folds and wrinkles. 2. WIDTH OF A FABRIC WOVEN ON A SHUTTLELESS LOOM. It is the distance from the outer warp on one side to the outer warp on the other side, measured perpendicular to the warp yarns while the fabric is held under zero tension and is free of folds and wrinkles. 3. WIDTH OF A CIRCULAR KNIT FABRIC. It twice the perpendicular distance between the enclosed edges of a flattened tube of fabric that is under zero tension and



270 Word



Category



Short description



FABROGRAPHY



processes, operations



The science and art of creating and printing designs on textiles



FACE



fabrics



That side of a fabric, which is intended to be shown by reason of weave or finish, presents a better appearance.



FACE FABRIC FACE FINISH



FACE LOOP FACE PLATE



FACE SIDE



FACED CLOTH



Description free of folds or wrinkles. 3. WIDTH OF A FLAT KNIT FABRIC. It is the perpendicular distance between the selvedges when the fabric is under zero tension and free of folds or wrinkles. 5. WIDTH OF A RAISEDSURFACE FABRIC. It is the dimension included within the outer limits of the nap or pile, but excluding the selvedges, or as otherwise agreed upon by the purchaser and seller The science and art of creating and printing designs on textiles by use of screens or stencils. The process may be manual or mechanical. That side of a fabric, which is intended to be shown by reason of weave or finish, presents a better appearance. In many fabrics, especially industrial ones there are no distinction between face and back. See under Back-grey A finish, which obscures weave and yarns by fulling and napping



fabrics See under Back-grey processes, A finish, which operations obscures weave and yarns by fulling and napping fabrics See under Knitted See under Knitted loop. loop. apparatus, In sewing machine, In sewing machine, the cover equipage, the cover on the on the sewing-head end of the machine arm. tools sewing-head end of the machine arm. fabrics Also called Right Also called Right side. The side. side of the textile material that is outward in the completed object; i.e. the side of the fabric intended to be shown whilst in wear. fabrics Clothes, which have Clothes, which have a a different weave different weave (pile) or finish



271 Word



Category



Short description (pile) or finish (nap) on the face side as opposed to the reverse and are cut ‘one-way’.



FACING



garments, The additional piece made-ups, of fabric attached to assemblies the upper surface of a garment.



FACING RIBBON FACING SILK



accessories See Faille ribbon. fabrics A fine lustrous fabric of silk



FAÇONNÉ



fabrics



French for ‘fancy weave’, but has come to describe the plain colour fabrics of soft floppy crêpe with satin or taffeta effect patterns.



FAÇONNÉ VELVET



fabrics



Patterned velvet fabric of various fibres



Description (nap) on the face side as opposed to the reverse and are cut ‘one-way’. Smooth, plain weave fabric that is luxurious looking with a nap on one side. Best quality facecloth is wool but others may be acrylic or viscose. The fabrics are made in various weights. Used mainly for coats and jackets, but inexpensive fabrics may be used for robes and dressing gowns. The additional piece of fabric attached to the upper surface of a garment. Usually used in knitted garments at the front joining edges of cardigans and jackets, but also used to describe the button-stands of neck openings of shirt style garments. See Faille ribbon. A fine lustrous fabric of silk (usually of cord, satin, twill weave, or barathea) used for facing, e.g. lapels in men’s evening wear. French for ‘fancy weave’, but has come to describe the plain colour fabrics of soft floppy crêpe with satin or taffeta effect patterns. Designs are always small, often shiny on dull background. Popular in the thirties when it was made of silk or Artificial silk, it returned to popularity in the late seventies, made from viscose, acetate, polyester or mixtures. Used for blouses, soft dresses, evening wear Patterned velvet fabric of various fibres, with the pattern produced by the burnt-out method of design. See Burnt



272 Word FADE-O-METER



Category



Short description



apparatus, A standard equipage, laboratory device for tools evaluating a fabric’s fastness of colour to sunlight.



FADING



fabrics



1. In fastness testing, any change in the colour of a textile caused by light or contaminants in the atmosphere, e.g. burnt-gas fumes. 2. Colloquially, a reduction in depth or brightness of colour of a textile, irrespective of cause. Fabric defect



FAG



defects



FAGOT STITCH



seams, stitches



A form of lockstitch, using a modified zigzag machine, used principally in the corsetry industry, for joining material, allowing a narrow gap between the two edges.



FAILLE



fabrics



Plain weave fabric



Description out fabric A standard laboratory device for evaluating a fabric’s fastness of colour to sunlight. Test specimens are revolved around a radiation source of light (Carbon arc) simulating sun’s rays, at 45° north latitude on a July day between the hours of 9.00 and 3.00. Fabrics tested are subjected to appropriate periods of exposure, depending on enduse, and are rated for resistance to exposure to sunlight. Ratings indicate the degree of fading or change of colour. The xenon arc approximates the spectral distribution of sunlight better than any other lamp. . 1. In fastness testing, any change in the colour of a textile caused by light or contaminants in the atmosphere, e.g. burnt-gas fumes. 2. Colloquially, a reduction in depth or brightness of colour of a textile, irrespective of cause.



Fabric defect. A coarse or rough spot in woven fabric. A form of lockstitch, using a modified zigzag machine, used principally in the corsetry industry, for joining material, allowing a narrow gap between the two edges. The machine performs a cycle of three stitches, the first through one piece of material, the second in the aperture, and the third through the other piece of material. Plain weave fabric with



273 Word



FAILLE CRÊPE



FAILLE RIBBON



FAILLE TAFFETA



FAILURE



FAIR ISLE KNIT



Category



Short description Description with pronounced ribs pronounced ribs across it. The across it rib effect is produced by setting the warp yarns very closely together and the weft having yarns a little thicker than the warp and more openly spaced (see Poplin). The ribs are coarser than those of poplin and are slightly flattened in finishing. Originally faille was a silk fabric but it is now made from man-made filament yarns, such as acetate, viscose or polyester and is used for dresses, light coats, weddinggowns linings and facings. It creases easily. The softer fabrics drape well, but faille is essentially for formal clothes that are not subjected to hard wear. fabrics Smooth, rich fabric Smooth, rich fabric resembling resembling Crêpe de Crêpe de Chine, but heavier. Chine, but heavier. The fibre may be silk, but is more usually synthetic. accessories Also called Facing Also called Facing ribbon. A ribbon. double shot or ribbed plainwoven ribbon commonly used to reinforce the button line of cardigans. fabrics Taffeta weave fabric Taffeta weave fabric made made from silk or from silk or synthetic fibres but synthetic fibres with a pronounced crosswise rib effect that resembles faille. See also Taffeta 1. An arbitrary point beyond general, An arbitrary point which a material ceases to be defects beyond which a functionally capable of its material ceases to intended use. be functionally 2. Sewing defect in sewn capable of its fabric seams. Fabric or intended use. sewing thread rupture or seam (yarn) slippage fabrics Knitted fabric with Knitted fabric with coloured coloured patterns patterns resembling Fair Isle. resembling Fair Isle. The fibre is usually acrylic and the fabric has a great deal of



274 Word



FAKE FUR FAKE FURS



FALL



FALL PLATE FABRIC



FALL-ON EFFECT



FALLEN WOOL



FALLS



FALSE REED



Category



Short description



Description elasticity. It may be inclined to ‘seat’ or lose its shape under strain, so garments are usually made in loose styles. fabrics See Fur fabric. See Fur fabric. fabrics Pile fabrics made of Pile fabrics made of cotton, cotton, man-made man-made fibres, and blends fibres, and blends used in woven or knitted constructions to simulate animal fur. garments, The section of the The section of the collar made-ups, collar between the between the crease and the assemblies crease and the leaf leaf edge. edge. fabrics A patterned fabric A patterned fabric made on a made on a raschel raschel warp-knitting machine using one needle bar, warp-knitting involving the use of a solid machine metal plate (fall plate or chopper bar) to push the newly formed laps of the pattern bars down below the spoons of the open latches, to be cast off with the ground loops of the previous course processes, In printing, two In printing, two colours of operations colours of overlapping pattern, which overlapping pattern results in a third colour. It is thus possible to achieve a three-colour print pattern with two print rollers. fibers, See Dead wool. See Dead wool. filaments, yarns The flap covering the garments, The flap covering the made-ups, abdomen on certain abdomen on certain types of breeches and trousers, now assemblies types of breeches and trousers, now uncommon. Whole or full falls have vents on either side. uncommon Split falls, as on riding breeches, button halfway A reed, used in addition to an apparatus, A reed, used in ordinary reed, to keep the equipage, addition to an threads of a fibrous or hightools ordinary reed, to sett warp separated. keep the threads of a fibrous or high-sett warp separated.



275 Word FALSE TWIST DIRECTION



FALSE TWISTING



Category fibers, filaments, yarns



Short description The direction, S or Z, of twist generated by a false-twisting device upstream of itself. processes, A twisting operation operations applied at an intermediate position on a yarn



Description The direction, S or Z, of twist generated by a false-twisting device upstream of itself.



A twisting operation applied at an intermediate position on a yarn or other similar continuous assembly of fibres, so that no net twist can be inserted, as distinct from twisting at the end of a yarn where real twist is inserted. FALSE-TWIST processes, See under Texturing See under Texturing TEXTURING operations FANCY ATLAS fabrics A warp-knitted fabric A warp-knitted fabric similar in construction to a single or two FABRIC similar in bar atlas fabric but, in which construction to a the direction of traverse may single or two bar change more than once within atlas fabric the repeat and the movement of the threads is not restricted to one wale per course FANCY BACK fabrics A fabric made with a A fabric made with a pattern on the back, which differs pattern on the back, from the face, often the back which differs from is of another colour, a plaid, the face, often the etc back is of another colour, a plaid, etc FANCY PURL fabrics Also known as Links- Also known as Links-links. A links general term used to describe patterned purl structures in which a design is formed from back and face loops. FANCY RIB WEAVE fabrics A rib weave in which A rib weave in which the float the float length is length is varied to change the width of the ribs to give a varied to change the patterned ef-fect. width of the ribs to give a patterned effect. FANCY WEAVE fabrics Any weave, which is Any weave, which is not one of the three basic weaves, not one of the three plain, twill or satin, but a basic weaves, plain, combination or extension of twill or satin, but a these weaves. combination or extension of these weaves.



276 Word FANCY YARN



Category fibers, filaments, yarns



Short description A yarn which differs from the normal construction due to irregularities produced in it



FASCIATED YARN



fibers, filaments, yarns



FASHION



general



Staple fibre yarn, that by virtue of its manufacturing technique consists of a core of essentially parallel fibres bound together by wrapper fibres. The prevailing style or mode in dress



FASHIONED



garments, made-ups, assemblies



FASHIONING ANGLE



FASHIONING FREQUENCY



FAST COLOUR



FAST DYE



Description A yarn which differs from the normal construction due to irregularities produced in it, i.e. a yarn that differs significantly from the normal appearance/construction of a single or plied yarn due to the presence of irregularities deliberately produced during its formation. Staple fibre yarn, that by virtue of its manufacturing technique consists of a core of essentially parallel fibres bound together by wrapper fibres. The current technique of manufacture is often referred to as Air-jet spinning. The prevailing style or mode in dress; also in fabrics (colour and texture). A description of a knitted garment in which shaping by narrowing or widening has been achieved on the knitting machine.



A description of a knitted garment in which shaping by narrowing or widening has been achieved on the knitting machine. fabrics The angle formed at The angle formed at the edge the edge of a piece of a piece of fashioned fabric, of fashioned fabric measured between course alignment and the line of the fashioned selvage. The number of courses fabrics The number of between two succeeding courses between two fashionings within a series. succeeding fashionings within a series. A colour that will resist colourchemicals, A colour that will destroying agents such as textile resist coloursunlight, washing, dryauxiliaries destroying agents cleaning and rubbing. such as sunlight, washing, drycleaning and rubbing. chemicals, A dye that does not A dye that does not change textile change shade shade appreciably during the



277 Word



Category auxiliaries



Short description appreciably during the life of the material on which it is used.



Description life of the material on which it is used. Term should be qualified, i.e. fast to washing, sunlight, or other specific colour destroying agent. FAST REED apparatus, A reed rigidly A reed rigidly mounted in the equipage, mounted in the loom loom sley tools sley FASTENERS accessories Fasteners are used Fasteners are used as as garment closures. garment closures. The fastener types mainly used are Snap fasteners, Hookand-eye fasteners and Selffastening tape fasteners FASTNESS ³ See Colour fastness. See Colour fastness. FATIGUE FACTOR fibers, The weakening of a The weakening of a stretch filaments, stretch yarn so that it yarn so that it loses some of its ability to recover after yarns loses some of its having been stretched. When ability to recover stretch yarn is twisted at after having been speeds too high for the length stretched. of the heater box (where is twist is set), stretch yarn fatigue can result. FBA ³ See Fluorescent See Fluorescent brightening brightening agent agent FDY fibers, See Fully drawn yarn See Fully drawn yarn filaments, yarns FEARNOUGHT fabrics A stout, thick, A stout, thick, woollen fabric woollen fabric with a with a heavy appearance, heavy appearance used chiefly as a covering for portholes and the doors of powder magazines and also for scarves and coats. FEATHER CLOTH fabrics A novelty fabric A novelty fabric made by mixing fine, soft feathers into wool yarns during manufacture. FEATHER FIBRE fibers, Detached barbs of Detached barbs of feathers, filaments, feathers which are not joined or yarns attached to each other. FEATHER PROTEIN fibers, See under See under Regenerated FIBRES filaments, Regenerated protein protein fibres yarns fibres FEATHER STITCH seams, A decorative stitch, A decorative stitch, principally stitches principally used in used in corsetry. A similar



278 Word



Category



FEATHERS



fibers, filaments, yarns



FEATHUR STUFFINGS



accessories



FEED



apparatus, equipage, tools



FEED-DOGS



apparatus, equipage, tools



FEED-OFF-ARM BED



apparatus, equipage, tools



Short description corsetry



Description machine cycle is employed as for the fagot stitch but the joining of two edges is not involved. A decorative stitch arranged to produce a branching zigzag line. Often used to sew on blanket bind-ings. The outgrowth forming the The outgrowth forming the contour contour and external covering of fowl. and external covering of fowl. The plumage of chickens, The plumage of turkeys, ducks and geese, chickens, turkeys, used for filling pillows. Fine ducks and geese, fluff found under the outer used for filling plumage of ducks and geese pillows. is called down. Feathers and down can be mixed or blended. The predominant material is listed first on the label In sewing machine, a In sewing machine, a mechanism for repeatedly mechanism for repeatedly moving moving material being stitched from one stitch position to the material being next. stitched from one stitch position to the next. In sewing machine, In sewing machine, toothed metal devices positioned toothed metal under or over the work that devices positioned advance the fabric under or over the work that advance components during stitching. Under work they form an oval the fabric components during movement, at the top of which they protrude through the stitching. throat plate and move forward, advancing the fabric one stitch; then they sink below the throat plate and return to their original location In sewing machine, a In sewing machine, a horizontal U-shaped horizontal U-shaped bed with bed the end of one arm underneath the sewing head and the other attached to the upright part of the machine



279 Word FEEDER



FEEDER VARIATION FEEDING FOOT



FEEL FELL



FELLING



FELLING MARK



Category



Short description



Description arm. The collective mechanisms on apparatus, The collective a knitting machine that equipage, mechanisms on a tools knitting machine that produce a course of loops. produce a course of Confusingly the term is also used to describe the metal loops plate with a hole or holes that, guide the yarn into the hooks of latch needles during loop formation. Both terms are commonly used in relation to circular machines, which are classified according to the number of feeders they possess. This defines the maximum number of courses they can knit in one revolution of the machine defects See Machine barré. See Machine barré. apparatus, In sewing machine, a In sewing machine, a presser equipage, presser foot foot which alternately engages tools and disengages with the upper surface of the material and which is driven so that it feeds the material. fabrics See under Finish. See under Finish. fabrics The edge of the cloth The edge of the cloth in the in the loom loom, marked by the last weft thread that is nearest to the reed whilst the fabric is being woven. The line where the warp shed and the newly woven fabric meet; the weft is beaten into the fell. The operation of over-sewing processes, The operation of operations over-sewing a piece a piece of material by its edge (raw or turned in) upon the of material by its body material. Blind-stitch edge (raw or turned machines are used for many in) upon the body felling operations material. fabrics indicate the length of A length of fabric from the the piece in which loom contains woven marks the fabric is sold (felling marks) at intervals, which indicate the length of the piece in which the fabric is sold



280 Word FELLING SIMILI



Category fabrics



FELT



fabrics



FELT FABRIC



fabrics



Short description Description See Simili binding See Simili binding under under Binding. Binding. A type of textile fabric A type of textile fabric characterised characterised by the densely matted condition of most of or by the densely matted condition of all of the fibres of which it is most of or all of the composed. Wool, and some fibres of which it is other animal fibres possess a natural tendency to felt or mat composed. together under the influence of heat, moisture and mechanical pressure. Wool fibres in wet and soapy conditions are milled until they are interlocked and matted and then pressure applied. In this way, webs of wool fibres can be consolidated into a fabric. The fabric is entirely without grain because the flat webs of fibres are non-directional, i.e. the fibres point in all directions. Felt can be cut in any direction without fraying or unravelling, because of the compact fibre arrangement. Fabric uses are restricted due to many reasons. Being a rigid fabric it does not drape. Does not wear well, and loses shape as it has no elasticity. Stability and durability properties are poor. The main apparel use of felt is in the manufacture of hats where its capacity to be shaped by heat and moisture can be exploited. Its lack of grain makes it suitable for handicraft and appliqué work where cutting in intricate shapes is possible. Certain types of soft bulky felts are used as padding in garment interlinings. This is an ordinary This is an ordinary woven woven fabric, usually fabric, usually cotton or wool, cotton or wool, but may be other fibres, that



281 Word



FELTABILITY



FELTED YARN



FELTER



FELTING



FELTING DIMENSIONAL CHANGE



FELTING NEEDLE



Category



Short description



Description have been milled on the surface to produce a felt-like ap-pearance, which disguises the weave beneath. The fabric may be of any weight, and the process is sometimes applied to cheap base fabric to give it more warmth and interest. It will be liable to shrink if it is of wool or unshrunk cotton. See also Felt. fibers, The degree to which The degree to which a sample of fibres will consolidate in a filaments, a sample of fibres yarns will consolidate in a specified time by interlocking under prescribed specified time by combinations of mechanical interlocking under action, chemical action, prescribed moisture, and heat. combinations of mechanical action, chemical action, moisture, and heat. fibers, A wool-rich yarn A wool-rich yarn produced filaments, produced from sliver, from sliver, slubbings, rovings, yarns slubbings, rovings, yarn, or by felting. See also yarn, or by felting. Continuous yarn felting See also Continuous yarn felting defects Also called Fray Also called Fray. A faulty area in a fabric caused by local interference with the shed during weaving, that results in a concentration of stitches or floats, and is sometimes accompanied by bro-ken ends. processes, The matting together The matting together of fibres during processing, wear or operations of fibres during washing. See also Milling. processing, wear or washing. The irreversible dimensional fabrics The irreversible change that occurs in a dimensional change consolidated wool fabric when that occurs in a it is subjected to agitation in consolidated wool laundering fabric apparatus, See Needlefelt See Needlefelt needle. equipage, needle. tools



282 Word FENTS



Category fabrics



FEP FIBRE



fibers, filaments, yarns



FIBER



fibers, filaments, yarns fibers, filaments, yarns fibers, filaments, yarns



FIBRAMINE



FIBRE



Short description Also called Bribe. Short lengths of fabric cut from an end, piece, or lump of fabric.



Description Also called Bribe. Short lengths of fabric cut from an end, piece, or lump of fabric. They may or may not be of imperfect material. See also Remnants Fluorinated ethyleneFluorinated ethylenepropylene copolymer propylene copolymer fibres, fibres spun from fluorinated ethylene-propylene copolymer Same as Fibre. Same as Fibre.



A viscose rayon into which, casein has been incorporated. A unit of matter, which possesses the properties of fineness, flexibility and a high ratio of length to thickness. The basic complete, or smallest unit used in a textile structure.



A viscose rayon into which, casein has been incorporated. Also called Fibre. A unit of matter, which possesses the properties of fineness, flexibility and a high ratio of length to thickness. The basic complete, or smallest unit used in a textile structure. A thin and flexible element, which may be combined with others to make yarn or fabric. A generic term for any one of the various types of matter that form the basic elements of a textile and that is characterised by having a high ratio of length to thickness. Chemical fibre: A literal translation of various non-English terms having the same meaning as man-made fibre. Man-made fibre: A manufactured fibre as distinct from a fibre that occurs naturally. Natural fibre: A fibre occurring in nature, which is animal, vegetable or mineral in origin. Regenerated fibre: A fibre formed from a solution of a natural polymer or of a chemical derivative of a natural polymer and having the same chemical



283 Word



Category



FIBRE BIREFRINGENCE



fibers, filaments, yarns



FIBRE COHESION



general



FIBRE CONTENT



fibers, filaments, yarns



FIBRE CRIMP



fibers, filaments, yarns



FIBRE CROSSSECTION



fibers, filaments, yarns



Short description



Description constitution as the natural polymer from which the solution or derivative was made. Synthetic fibre: A manufactured fibre produced from a polymer built up from chemical elements or compounds, in contrast to fibres made from naturally occurring fibre-forming polymers. See also The algebraic difference of the Birefringence index of refraction of the fibre for plane polarised light vibrating parallel to the longitudinal axis of the fibre and the index of refraction for light vibrating perpendicular to the long axis. See also Birefringence Also called Cling and Also called Cling and Drag. Drag The resistance to separation of fibres in contact with one another. The type and amount of The type and amount fibre(s) used in making a of fibre(s) used in textile product. making a textile product. The waviness of a 1. The waviness of a fibre fibre expressed as expressed as waves or crimps waves or crimps per per unit length. unit length 2. The difference in distance between two points on the fibre as it lies in an unstretched condition and the same two points when the fibre is straightened under specific tension, expressed as a per-centage of the unstretched length. Fibres are made in a Fibres are made in a variety of cross-sectional shapes, and variety of crossthis has very important effect sectional shapes, on fibre properties. The and this has very bending stiffness of a important effect on flattened cross-section is less fibre properties. than that of a round cross sectional area. The high



284 Word



Category



FIBRE DENSITY



fibers, filaments, yarns



FIBRE DIAGRAM



fibers, filaments, yarns fibers, filaments, yarns fibers, filaments, yarns



FIBRE EXTENT



FIBRE FINENESS



FIBRE FINISH



FIBRE GENERIC NAME



Short description



Description bending stiffness of the round or bean-shaped cross-section is particularly advantageous in carpet fibres, contributing to resilience or spring-back. A flattened or dog-bone crosssection, on the other hand, is conducive to a softness of touch in fabrics made from this type of fibre. The dogbone type also has a distinctive effect on the reflection of light, and thus is often noticeable as a sheen or lustre in certain fabric constructions. Mass per unit volume of the Mass per unit volume of the solid solid matter, which a fibre is composed of, measured matter, which a fibre under specified conditions. is composed of, measured under specified conditions. See under Fibre See under Fibre length. length. See under Fibre length.



See under Fibre length.



The fineness of cotton, silk The fineness of and man-made fibres is cotton, silk and manusually expressed in terms of made fibres is usually expressed in average linear density. The fineness of animal fibres is terms of average usually expressed as the linear density. mean fibre diameter. Process of application of a processes, Process of coating of chemical operations application of a compound(s) on a fibre to coating of chemical improve lubrication and compound(s) on a prevent electrification. fibre to improve lubrication and prevent electrification. fibers, A name used to A name used to distinguish a filaments, distinguish a class of class of textile fibre from yarns textile fibre from others. For natural fibres, the others distinguishing attribute is the fibre source; for man-made



285 Word



Category



FIBRE LENGTH



fibers, filaments, yarns



Short description



Description fibres, the chemical difference, which often results in distinctive property differences, is the main basis for classification; other attributes are included where necessary. The distance between the The distance ends of a fibre when between the ends of measured under specified a fibre when conditions. In commercial measured under specified conditions. practice the following terms apply: Barbe: The mean length of the fibres of a sliver or of a roving calculated from the proportions by mass of the fibres in the sliver or roving. This term is used for long staple fibres, particularly wool. Crimped length: The distance between the ends of a fibre when substantially freed from external re-straint, measured with respect to its general axis of orientation. Dispersion: A measure of length variation in cotton fibres. Statistically it is the inter quartile range of the fibres greater than half the maximum length when determined using a comb sorter. Effective length: A measure of the characteristic length of a sample of cotton fibres. Statistically it is the inter quartile length of fibres longer than half the maximum length when determined using a comb sorter. Fibre diagram: A graphical representation of the length characteristics of a sample of staple fibres. It is a graph of length against cumulative frequency. Fibre extent: The distance



286 Word



Category



Short description



Description between two planes which just enclose a fibre without intercepting it, each plane being perpendicular to the general direction of the yarn or other assembly of which the fibre forms a part. Fibrogram: A graph showing the length distribution of a sample of cotton fibres as determined by using the Fibrograph instrument. Statistically it is the curve representing the second cumulation (in-tegral) of the frequency distribution. Floating fibre index: The percentage of fibres not gripped by either the front or back rollers of a drafting system. It is determined by the Fibrograph instrument, which is used to test samples of cot-ton fibre. Hauteur: The mean length of the fibres of a sliver or roving, calculated from the proportions by titre of the fibres in the sliver or the roving. This term is used for long staple fibres, particularly wool. See Barbe above. Span length: The fibre extent exceeded by a stated percentage of cotton fibres by number deter-mined by using the Fibrograph instrument, e.g. 2.5 % span length is the extent exceeded by only 2.5 % of the fibres. Staple length: The characteristic fibre length of a sample of staple fibres (usually estimated by subjective visual assessment for natural fibres). The staple length of wool is usually taken as the length of the longer fibres in a hand-prepared tuft



287 Word



Category



Short description



Description or ‘staple’ in its naturally crimped and wavy condition (see Crimp). The staple length of cotton corresponds very closely to the modal or most frequent length of the fibres when measured in a straightened condition. Uniformity index: A measure of length variation in cotton fibres determined using the Fibrograph instrument. It is the ratio of the mean length to the upper half mean length expressed as a percent-age. Uniformity ratio: A measure of length variation in cotton fibres determined by using the Fibrograph instrument. It is the ratio between two span lengths (50 % and 2.5 %) expressed as a percentage of the longer span length. Upper half mean length: The mean length by number of the longer one half of the fibres by weight as determined by using the Fibrograph instrument for cotton. A series of individual fibres that are arranged in order based on fibre length or a series of groups of fibres that represent essentially uniform lengths within a group and which are arranged in order based on group length. The change in the distance of a fibre or filament from the axis of a yarn during production.



FIBRE LENGTH ARRAY



fibers, filaments, yarns



A series of individual fibres that are arranged in order based on fibre length



FIBRE MIGRATION



fibers, filaments, yarns



FIBRE MORPHOLOGY



fibers, filaments, yarns



The change in the distance of a fibre or filament from the axis of a yarn during production. The form and structure of a The form and fibre, including its biological structure of a fibre, structure, shape, crossincluding its section, and microscopic biological structure, appearance shape, cross-section, and microscopic



288 Word



Category



Short description Description appearance FIBRE NUMBER fibers, The linear density of The linear density of a fibre filaments, a fibre expressed in expressed in units such as tex yarns units such as tex or or denier. denier. Application to image FIBRE OPTICS processes, Application to image operations transmission of the transmission of the ability of ability of transparent transparent dielectric fibres of glass or plastics to conduct dielectric fibres of light internally along their glass or plastics to length in a flexible path conduct light internally along their length in a flexible path FIBRE PORES fibers, Orifices in the fibre Orifices in the fibre, i.e. filaments, interstices or small openings yarns existing between the molecules of the fibre. FIBRE PROPERTIES fibers, The performance of The performance of fabrics filaments, fabrics are relative to are relative to the properties of fibres used in it. Salient yarns the properties of properties of fibre involved in fibres used in it. the performance of fabrics are; Appearance: This includes colour, lustre, abrasion resistance, pilling property, resiliency, dye affinity, and finish affinity. Comfort: This includes density, elongation, elastic recovery, moisture regain, absorbency, static charge, flexibility or pliability, and resiliency. Maintenance: This includes strength or tenacity wet and dry, resiliency, moisture absorbency, abrasion resistance, and chemical resistance. Durability: This includes tenacity, flexibility or pliability, cohesiveness, moisture regain, absorbency, elastic recovery, elongation, thermal reactions, chemical; reactions, and biological reactions. FIBRE QUALITY fibers, A numerical value A numerical value indicating INDEX filaments, indicating the the processability of cotton



289 Word



Category yarns



FIBRE ROPE



fibers, filaments, yarns



FIBRE ULTIMATE



fibers, filaments, yarns



FIBREFILL



fibers, filaments, yarns



FIBRID



fibers, filaments, yarns



FIBRIL



fibers, filaments, yarns fibers, filaments, yarns fibers, filaments, yarns fibers,



FIBRILLAE



FIBRILLATED YARN



FIBRILLATED-FILM



Short description Description processability of calculated from its fineness. cotton A compact but flexible A compact but torsionally balanced, flexible torsionally balanced, continuous continuous structure of natural structure of natural or man-made fibres produced from strands which are or man-made fibres twisted, plaited, or braided together, generally greater than 5-mm (3/16 in.) diameter and which serves primarily to transmit a force from the point of origin to the point of application. That unit cell beyond That unit cell beyond which subdivision is not possible which subdivision is without loss of a fibre’s not possible without identity. loss of a fibre’s identity. Virgin man-made Virgin man-made fibres fibres especially especially engineered as to engineered linear density, cut length, and crimp for use as a textile filling material. A netted filamentary A netted filamentary or fibrillar or fibrillar structure, structure, substantially longer substantially longer in one dimension than in the in one dimension other two, that exhibits a than in the other two capacity for mechanical entanglement with other structures and much higher water-holding capacity than fibres produced by conventional spinning means. Fibrids are used as binding elements in the production of wet-laid synthetic papers. A small fibre; A small fibre; bundles of fibre bundles of fibre cells. cells. See also Lousiness.



A yarn produced by the process of fibrillation. Staple fibre



Whitish specks often visible on the surface of dyed silk yarns. See also Lousiness. A yarn produced by the process of fibrillation. Staple fibre produced by



290 Word FIBRE



Category filaments, yarns



FIBRILLATED-FILM TOW



fibers, filaments, yarns fibers, filaments, yarns



FIBRILLATED-FILM YARN



Short description Description produced by cutting, cutting, chopping or stretchchopping or stretchbreaking fibrillated yarn or breaking fibrillated fibrillated-film tow. yarn or fibrillated-film tow. An assembly of An assembly of fibrillated fibrillated textile films textile films



Yarn produced from Yarn produced from fibrillating fibrillating film film that has been converted into a longitudinally fibrillated struc-ture. FIBRILLATING FILM fibers, A polymer film in A polymer film in which filaments, which molecular molecular orientation has yarns orientation has been been induced by stretching to induced by stretching such a degree that it is capable of being converted into yarn or twine by manipulation, e.g. by twisting under tension, which results in the formation of a longitudinally split structure (Split fibre). The process of splitting a FIBRILLATION defects The process of longitudinally oriented fibre, splitting a textile film or tape into a longitudinally network of interconnected oriented fibre, textile fibres. Fibrillation can also film or tape into a refer to a fibrillar failure or film network of structure. Processes for interconnected producing fibrillation may be fibres. divided into two groups; (a) those producing random splitting to give a relatively coarse network, e.g. twisting, and (b) those producing controlled splitting to give a relatively fine network, e.g. by rapidly rotating pinned rollers. FIBRING OFF processes, The involuntary The involuntary removal of operations removal of fibre or fibre or lint from yarns during lint from yarns during processing. processing. FIBRO fibers, Trade name for a Trade name for a viscose filaments, viscose staple fibre staple fibre FIBRO yarns FIBROGRAM fibers, See under Fibre See under Fibre length.



291 Word



FIBROGRAPH



FIBROIN



FIBRONAIRE



Category filaments, yarns apparatus, equipage, tools



Short description length.



Description



An instrument containing a photoelectric eye



fibers, filaments, yarns



The chief ingredient of silk



An instrument containing a photoelectric eye that scans a sample of raw stock fibres quickly and indicates the percentage of fibre lengths. The chief ingredient of silk after the gum has been discharged; it is a protein containing carbon, hydrogen, oxygen and nitrogen. An instrument which, determines the micronaire reading of raw cotton fibres using the ‘porous plug’ air flow technique Containing, consisting of, or like, fibres.



apparatus, An instrument which, equipage, determines the tools micronaire reading of raw cotton fibres



FIBROUS



general



FIDDLE STRING



defects



FIGURED FABRIC



FIGURING



FIJI SILK



FILAMEL FILAMENT



Containing, consisting of, or like, fibres. Fabric defect.



Fabric defect. A particular form of tight end or tight pick that becomes evident only after wet processing A fabric, in which patterns or fabrics A fabric, in which motifs are produced by a patterns or motifs are combination of distinct produced by a weaves usually requiring a combination of dobby or jacquard distinct weaves mechanism. usually requiring a dobby or jacquard mechanism. processes, The application of The application of fancy operations fancy effects to effects to woven cloth. woven cloth. Crisp silk, heavier than Jap, fabrics Crisp silk, heavier and therefore much more than Jap, and therefore much more expensive. Usually found in natural colours and cream. expensive. Used for blouses, dresses. fabrics See under Antistatic See under Antistatic tricot. tricot. fibers, Continuous fibre of Continuous fibre of indefinite filaments, indefinite length. length. It is long enough to be yarns used in a fabric without increasing its length by adding other fibres on to it. An



292 Word



Category



Short description



FILAMENT BLEND YARN



fibers, filaments, yarns



Entirely new type of yarn may be produced by mingling together filaments of different fibres. A filament blend yarn can be produced by twisting together rayon filaments and nylon filaments.



FILAMENT COUNT



fibers, filaments, yarns fibers,



The number of filaments that make up a yarn. Long, continuous



FILAMENT FIBRES



Description example of a natural filament is silk; the cocoon of a silkworm can contain about 3000 m of continuous twin filaments. Man-made filaments produced by spinning machines can be many kilometres long. Entirely new type of yarn may be produced by mingling together filaments of different fibres. A filament blend yarn can be produced by twisting together rayon filaments and nylon filaments. A new range of lightweight fabrics can be produced from this yarn, and they combine the aesthetic appeal of rayon with the strength of nylon. The range of fabrics that can be produced from this yarn includes crêpe, georgettes, fine twills and jerseys. The woven fabrics have a rustle and scroop not unlike that of silk. They are easy-care fabrics and will not require a lot of attention after washing. They may be ironed if necessary, but on the whole have a good resistance to creasing. Filament blend yarns are also produced from acetate and nylon. Before the development of these yarns it had only been possible to blend the staple fibres, but this process represents a major break-through, since blended yarns can now be produced in continuous filament form. The number of filaments that make up a yarn. Long, continuous fibres that



293 Word



Category filaments, yarns



FILAMENT YARN



fibers, filaments, yarns



FILAMENTATION



defects



FILATURE



general



FILATURE SILK



fibers, filaments, yarns



FILET LACE



fabrics



FILET NET



fabrics



Short description fibres that can be measured in metres or yards or, in case of man-made fibres, in kilometres or miles. A yarn composed of one or more (continuous) filaments A fibrous or hairy appearance due to broken filaments on the surface of a yarn package or fabric. Factory for reeling raw silk in to skeins from the cocoons. A raw silk, which is reeled by machinery, as distinct from silk prepared by hand in cottage industry. Mesh fabric of square design LACE. Furnishing and Leavers lace.



Description can be measured in metres or yards or, in case of man-made fibres, in kilometres or miles.



A yarn composed of one or more (continuous) filaments, assembled with or without twist. A fibrous or hairy appearance due to broken filaments on the surface of a yarn package or fabric. Factory for reeling raw silk in to skeins from the cocoons. A raw silk, which is reeled by machinery, as distinct from silk prepared by hand in cottage industry. Mesh fabric of square design with some squares blocked in to form a design. 1. LACE. Furnishing and Leavers lace. A lace construction in which a square-mesh net consists of parallel warp threads bound by one or more bobbin threads, and mesh threads that alternately pillar and throw at right angles to the warp threads. Pattern may be added by more frequent throwing of the mesh threads or by throws of a further set of patterning threads that pillar when not patterning. 2. WARP KNITTED. A lace construction similar to the above except that a knitted chain of loops in the warp thread binds the mesh threads and patterning threads, if any. 3. WOVEN. A net woven in



294 Word



FILL LEAKAGE



FILLER



FILLER FABRIC FILLER YARN



FILLING



FILLING BAND



FILLING BAR



FILLING ELONGATION & TENSION



FILLING FACE



FILLING FACE TWILL



Category



Short description



Description such a way that the yarns are locked at the intersections. defects In comforters, either In comforters, either partial or total penetration of the stuffing partial or total material through the outer or penetration of the face fabric. stuffing material through the outer or face fabric. chemicals, Nonfibrous material, Also called Back-filling, Backsizing. Nonfibrous material, textile such as insoluble such as insoluble clays or auxiliaries clays or gypsum, gypsum, together with together with starches, gums, etc., starches, gums, etc., added to added to a fabric to a fabric to increase its weight increase its weight or to modify the appearance or handle of the fabric. fabrics See under Tyre See under Tyre textiles. textiles.. fibers, See Stuffer yarn. See Stuffer yarn. filaments, yarns fabrics Another name for 1. Another name for Weft. Weft. 2. The term is sometimes used, especially in the U.K., to mean ‘Filler’. See Filler. defects Defect in woven Defect in woven fabrics. A fabrics. visual defect across the width due to a change occurring in the yarn for a large number of picks. (Compare Filling bar.) defects Defect in woven Defect in woven fabrics. A fabrics. visual defect, across the width, which contains a limited number of picks of different appearance than normal. (Compare Filling band.) Stretch or tension measured fabrics Stretch or tension at right angles to the warp measured at right direction of the fabric. angles to the warp direction of the fabric. fabrics That weave in which That weave in which the face the face of the fabric of the fabric is formed by the is formed by the weft weft yarns. Fabrics so woven are also called filling flush. yarns. fabrics A twill fabric in which A twill fabric in which the weft the weft yarns float yarns float on the face of the



295 Word



Category



FILLING MATERIAL



fibers, filaments, yarns



FILLING RIB WEAVE



fabrics



FILLING RUN OUT FILLING SATEEN



defects fabrics



FILLING SATIN



fabrics



FILLING SNARL FILLING YARN



FILLING-TO-FILLING SEAM



defects fibers, filaments, yarns seams, stitches



FILTER CLOTH



fabrics



Fabric used for filtering purposes



FINAL PRESSING DEFECTS IN GARMENT FINAL TWIST



defects



See under Garment defects, classified



fibers, filaments, yarns



Short description Description on the face of the fabric more than the warp fabric more than the yarns. warp yarns. The contents of an industry The contents of an product containing feathers or industry product containing feathers down of any kind or type, with or without natural or synthetic or down materials. A fabric in which the A fabric in which the warp warp yarns are yarns are grouped together to grouped together form ribs running in the weft direction. See Broken pick. See Broken pick. A sateen fabric in which the A sateen fabric in which the weft yarns weft yarns float on the face of float on the face of the fabric more than the warp yarns. the fabric more than the warp yarns. A satin fabric in A satin fabric in which the weft which the weft yarns yarns float on the face of the float on the face of fabric more than the warp the fabric more than yarns. the warp yarns. See Kink-in. See Kink-in. See Filling. See Filling.



A sewn seam



A sewn seam in which the yarns in the weft direction on both sides of the sewn seam are per-pendicular to the seam. Fabric used for filtering purposes. Straining different liquids may require fabrics of varying density or chemical type. See under Garment defects, classified



The number of turns Also called ‘As-is’ twist. The number of turns per unit per unit length in a length in a single yarn single yarn component of a plied component of a plied yarn or the plied yarn component of a yarn cabled yarn as the component lies in the more complex



296 Word



FINDINGS



FINE



FINE DRAWING



FINE END



FINE FILLING FINE FILLING BAR



FINE PICK FINE WOOL



FINENESS



FINGER MARK



Category



Short description



Description structure.tapes, lining, pocketing, waistbands, etc. fabrics Supplementary Supplementary fabrics fabrics employed in making a garment such as zipper tapes, lining, pocketing, waistbands, etc. fibers, Also called Fine Also called Fine wool. Wool, filaments, wool. mostly from merino sheep, yarns which is used in good quality clothing and fabrics processes, The final operation of The final operation of operations repairing faults in repairing faults in fabrics by fabrics sewing or closing up the places where threads or yarns are missing, a form of invisible mending defects Fabric defect. Fabric defect. A warp yarn smaller in diameter than normally used in the fabric. (Compare Coarse end.) defects See Thin filling. See Thin filling. defects Fabric defect. Fabric defect. Also called Bang off. A weftwise bar either across the full width of the cloth or a portion of it, containing picks of smaller diameter than normally being used in the fabric or containing less than the normal number of picks. defects See Thin filling. See Thin filling. fibers, See Fine See Fine filaments, yarns fibers, In fibres, a relative In fibres, a relative measure of size, diameter, linear density, filaments, measure of size, or mass per unit length yarns diameter, linear density, or mass per expressed in a variety of units unit length expressed in a variety of units defects Fabric defect. Fabric defect. Also called Pressure mark. An irregular spot showing variation in picks per inch for a limited width, caused usually during



297 Word



Category



Short description



Description spreading of warp ends while loom is in motion, pressure upon cloth between reed and take-up drum. FINGER PRESSING processes, Applying pressure on Applying pressure on damp operations damp fabric with fabric with fingers to shape fingers and mould ruffles, pleats, neckbands, creases, etc FINGERING YARNS fibers, A soft yarn of two or A soft yarn of two or more ply filaments, more ply produced produced for hand knitting. yarns for hand knitting. FINGERTIP TOWEL garments, See under Towel. See under Towel. made-ups, assemblies Treatment of a fabric to FINISH fabrics Treatment of a fabric impart, a desired surface to impart, a desired effect, such as napping, surface effect, such calendering, embossing, as napping, lacquering, or crinkling. Some calendering, finishes add lustre; others give embossing, a muted dull effect. Special lacquering, or finishes can be applied to crinkling. make a fabric water proof or wrinkle resistant. A finish may contribute to the ‘feel’ of the fabric, as well as to its looks and usefulness. Basic finishes: Also called Regular finishes. All processes required for converting grey (or griege) goods into merchandise saleable to the consumer or ultimate processor. Basic finishes are mechanical and/or chemical. Finishes that appeal to the eye include shedding, singeing, brushing, beetling, mercerising, stentering, calendering, moiréeing, pressing, embossing, crimping, glazing, polishing, inspection and repair. Finishes that appeal to touch include napping, weighting, coating, sizing, or dressing and starching. Functional finishes: Also called Special



298 Word



Category



Short description



FINISHED FABRIC WEIGHT



fabrics



Mass per unit area expressed in grams per square metre



FINISHED GOODS



fabrics



Converted fabrics.



FINISHED WIDTH



fabrics



FINISHED YIELD



FINISHING FINISHING BAR



Description finishes. Treatments that are applied to fabrics to make them better suited for specific uses. These finishes include absorbent finish, air conditioning of fabric, antibacterial finish, crease resistant, durable crease, durable press, flame resistant, metallizing, mildew resistant, moth repellent, shrinkage control, wash-and-wear, water repellent, water proofing, etc. Mass per unit area expressed in grams per square metre (ounces per square yard), grams per linear metre (ounces per linear yard), or inversely as meters per kilogram (linear yards per pound), or square meters per kilogram (square yards per pound). Converted fabrics. Cloths that, after having been passed through all processes required for making the goods suitable for sale to the ultimate consumer. The width of a fabric after it has completed the finishing operations and is ready for use.



The width of a fabric after it has completed the finishing operations and is ready for use. fabrics In knitted fabrics, the In knitted fabrics, the number of finished square yards per number of finished pound (square meters per square yards per kilogram) of finished fabric pound (square meters per kilogram) of finished fabric processes, See Fabric finishing. See Fabric finishing. operations defects Fabric defect. Fabric defect. Uneven appearance across entire width of fabric usually caused by machine stoppage during processing



299 Word FINISHING PROCESSES



Category processes, operations



Short description Description Conversion of loom Conversion of loom state grey state grey cloth cloth (which is rough, contains blemishes and impurities which come from the nature of the fibres used or were picked up in the manufacturing process) into finished cloth ready for use. There are many stages and processes involved in finishing a piece of fairly inert, limp, and lifeless grey cloth into the full and lustrous product known to the consumer. FINISHING SPOT defects Also called Blotch Also called Blotch and Stain. and Stain. Fabric Fabric defect. A discoloured defect. area on the fabric, caused probably by foreign material such as dirt, grease, oil, rust, water, etc. on the fabric. FIQUE fibers, A fibre from the leaf A fibre from the leaf of the filaments, of the plant ‘Furcraea plant ‘Furcraea macrophylla’ yarns macrophylla’ Uncontrolled conflagration in FIRE general Uncontrolled which materials are destroyed conflagration in which materials are by burning as evidenced by destroyed by burning flames of varying size and shape, and a high intensity as evidenced by heat source. flames of varying tapes, lining, pocketing, size and shape, and waistbands, etc. a high intensity heat source. FIRE PROOF fabrics Uncontrolled Fire proof fabrics will not conflagration support flame. FIRE RETARDANCE general The resistance to The resistance to combustion combustion of a of a material when tested material under specified conditions. FIRE RETARDANT processes, Any process such as Any process such as TREATMENT operations spraying, padding, spraying, padding, dipping, dipping, brushing to brushing, or otherwise reduce flammability applying a material onto the textile material at any stage of manufacture, which has as its primary or secondary purpose the reduction of its flammability FIRMNESS FACTOR fabrics It may be referred to A term derived from cloth-



300 Word



FIRSTS



FISH



FISH EYE FISH EYE CLOTH



FISHNET



FITTED SHEET



FIXED RETAINER



Category



Short description Description setting theories: it takes as a percentage of account of both the threadthe maximum possible cover factor spacing relative to the yarn diameter (cover factor) and of for a particular the frequency of the weave structure (percentage cover). interlacings. It may be referred to as a percentage of the maximum possible cover factor for a particular weave structure (percentage cover). For plain weave, it is identical with the cover factor; for other weaves, e.g. for twill weaves, it is the cover factor multiplied by a value characteristic of the weave and indicative of the frequency of the interlacings. fabrics An inspection An inspection classification for classification for fabrics that meet established fabrics commercial standards for minimum number of defects and imperfections. garments, A dart cut at the A dart cut at the waist of a made-ups, waist of a garment to garment to give a closer fit assemblies give a closer fit defects See Pinhole. See See Pinhole. See also Snag also Snag fabrics Fabric with a woven Fabric with a woven diamonddiamond-effect effect pattern, constructed in a pattern similar way to bird’s eye, but larger. Is often a woollen cloth, but may contain other fibres such as polyester. See Bird’s eye weave. A weft-knitted fabric fabrics A weft-knitted fabric resembling a fine- resembling a fine-meshed net construction generally made meshed net by plating a thick and thin construction yarn. The thick yarn is floated across the thin yarn to give either an all-over or patterned openwork effect. garments, See under Sheeting. See under Sheeting. made-ups, assemblies apparatus, In zippers, a device In zippers, a device equipage, permanently permanently attached to the



301 Word



Category tools



FIXING



processes, operations



FIXING AGENT



FLAGGING



FLAKE YARN



FLAME



FLAME RESISTANCE



Short description attached to the retainer pin at the bottom of one stringer.



Description retainer pin at the bottom of one stringer. The fixed retainer has an opening shaped to fit the separable pin. In order to close, the separable pin is passed through the slider body and then inserted into this opening. The fixed retainer holds or retains the two stringers in alignment for interlocking 1. Setting dye after dyeing, usually by steaming or hot wash. 2. Converting soluble dye into an insoluble form.



1. Setting dye after dyeing, usually by steaming or hot wash. 2. Converting soluble dye into an insoluble form. chemicals, Chemicals used in Chemicals used in dyeing and textile dyeing and printing printing to convert a soluble auxiliaries to convert a soluble dye into an insoluble form in or on the fibre. dye into an insoluble form in or on the fibre. defects Setting dye after Sewn seam defect. A mode of dyeing failure evidenced by slippage of one or more yarns entirely out of the original seam. fibers, A novelty ply yarn in A novelty ply yarn in which filaments, which flakes or tufts flakes or tufts of roving appear yarns of roving appear at at intervals. The tufts are not intervals. part of the single yarns, but are held in place by the ply twist general A hot, luminous zone A hot, luminous zone of gas or of gas or matter in matter in gaseous gaseous suspension suspension, or both, that is undergoing combustion that is relatively constant in size and shape, and that produces a relatively low heat flux. The property of a material general The property of a whereby flaming combustion material whereby flaming combustion is prevented, terminated, or inhibited, following application is prevented, of a flaming or nonflaming terminated, or source of ignition, with or inhibited without subsequent removal



302 Word



Category



Short description



FLAME SPREAD



general



In flammability testing of fabric, the propagation of a flame away from the source of ignition.



FLAME-RESISTANT FABRIC



fabrics



Fabric having flame resistance.



FLAMERETARDANT



³



FLAMERETARDANTTREATMENT



FLAMEPROOF FABRIC



FLAMMABILITY



Description of the ignition source In flammability testing of fabric, the propagation of a flame away from the source of ignition. ‘Flame-spread time’ is the time taken by a flame on a burning material to travel a specified distance under specified conditions Fabric having flame resistance. Fabric, which either will not burn, or will burn so slowly as to allow time to extinguish the flame or discard the burning fabric and thus obviate severe injury to the wearer. A chemical used to impart flame resistance.



A chemical used to impart flame resistance. A process for incorporating or processes, A process for adding flame retardant(s) to a operations incorporating or material or product. adding flame retardant(s) to a material or product. fabrics A fabric, which does A fabric, which does not not propagate flame, propagate flame, i.e. any flame goes out quickly when the igniting flame is withdrawn. general Those characteristics Those characteristics of a material that pertain to its of a material that pertain to its relative relative ease of ignition and relative ability to sustain ease of ignition and combustion. Linen, cotton, relative ability to rayons, jute and kapok are sustain combustion highly flammable fibres. They catch alight quickly and continue to burn when withdrawn from flame. If the actual cloth fire is extinguished, there may be an afterglow, which can re-ignite the fabric or set fire to any material nearby. Acetate does not burn as readily as viscose rayon, but the hot melt may cause burns. Wool and silk



303 Word



Category



FLAMMABLE TEXTILE



general



FLAMMÉ



fabrics



FLANGE LOCK SLIDER



apparatus, equipage, tools



FLANGES



apparatus, equipage, tools fabrics



FLANNEL



Short description



Description are less flammable fibres. They burn slowly and do not continue to burn or leave an afterglow when withdrawn from the flame. The synthetic fibres melt, but they do not burn unless in contact with a flame for some time. The hot melt, falling away from the fabric, may cause severe burns. Asbestos and glass are non-flammable fibres. They normally are not used for clothing. Modacrylic fibres such as Teklan and aramid fibres such as Nomex have extremely good flame resistant properties. Any combustible Any combustible textile that textile that burns with burns with a flame a flame Woollen dress fabric 1. Woollen dress fabric made made from printed from printed yarns. yarns. 2. Plain weave fabric produced from yarn-dyed linen warp and cotton weft, used for tablecloths and curtains In zippers. a slider In zippers. a slider with with notches in the notches in the flanges of the flanges of the slider slider that block the shoulders of the elements when the stringers above the slider are pulled apart, thus preventing further separation of the chain. In zippers, the edges In zippers, the edges of the of the slider formed slider formed to contain the to contain the chain. chain. The original was an The original was an all-wool, underwear fabric, dullall-wool, underwear fabric, dull-surfaced, surfaced, slightly fuzzy, rather slightly fuzzy, rather coarse and scratchy, but now coarse and scratchy, top class flannel is in all-wool or worsted fibre, of plain or but now top class flannel is in all-wool twill weave, the yarns milled or worsted fibre, of during manufacture, soft and full in handle with good plain or twill weave,



304 Word



Category



FLANNELETTE



fabrics



Short description Description the yarns milled draping properties. During during manufacture, finishing, surface fibre is soft and full in handle developed so that the weave with good draping is partially or even completely properties obscured. The nap is normally non-directional and these fabrics are traditionally produced in white, or in wooldyed mixtures. It makes super tailored clothes; it is soft, warm and elastic with all the properties of woollen cloth. A small percentage of polyester or other synthetic fibre may be added, but if viscose is included it makes a cheap material that will not shape or wear well. A lightweight cloth; used for blazers, trousers, women’s suits, men’s suits. The so-called worsted flannel is a fabric made from worsted yarns and though the handle is soft the surface fibre has not been developed and the weave remains visible. Lightweight imitation of wool Lightweight imitation of wool flannel fabric. flannel fabric. Flannelette is Flannelette is made made from cotton, viscose, from cotton, viscose, modal or mixtures. They are modal or mixtures. usually raised on both sides. Soft yarns are used so that the fuzzy, warm surface is easily achieved. Made in either plain weave, or in simple twill and soft spun weft is used to provide the nap and the soft handle. These fabrics are made in a variety of colours in plains, stripes and printed styles. Wears well, but crease easily. Being cheap, warm and washable they are very popular for sheets, children’s wear and nightwear. But their easy flammability lead eventually to legislation designed to prevent their use for night wear unless given a



305 Word



FLANNELETTE SHEETING FLAP



FLARE



FLASH CURING FLASH SPINNING



FLASH SPUN FABRIC



FLASH-AGEING



FLAT FLAT BED



FLAT DUCK



Category



Short description



Description durable flame resistant treatment. Sometimes called Gypsy cloth fabrics Sheeting made of Sheeting made of cotton and cotton and slightly slightly brushed for warmth. brushed for warmth. Highly inflammable. A shaped piece of material, garments, A shaped piece of which provides a covering for made-ups, material, which a pocket mouth, or for assemblies provides a covering ornamentation. for a pocket mouth, or for ornamentation. fibers, In cord, the In cord, the spreading of the filaments, spreading of the filaments at the cut end of a yarns filaments at the cut strand or the spreading of end of a strand strand ends at the cut end of a cord. processes, See under Curing. See under Curing. operations A modification of the dry processes, A modification of the operations dry spinning method spinning method in which a solution of a polymer is in which a solution of extruded at a temperature well a polymer is above its boiling point, such extruded at a that, on emerging from the temperature well spinneret, evaporation occurs above its boiling so rapidly that the individual point filaments are disrupted into fine fibrils. fabrics A non-woven formed A non-woven formed from the from the fibrillation of fibrillation of an extruded film by the rapid evaporation of an extruded film by solvent. This web may the rapid evaporation subsequently be bonded. of solvent. In textile wet processing, the processes, In textile wet fixation by means of a swift operations processing, the passage through an fixation by means of inexpensive ‘ager equipment’ a swift passage after padding in the necessary through an chemicals. inexpensive ‘ager equipment’ defects See Wrong draw. See Wrong draw. apparatus, In sewing machine, a In sewing machine, a type of equipage, type of bed bed, which provides a flat tools unbroken surface with the table in which it is mounted. fabrics Duck fabric having Duck fabric having the warp of the warp of two two single yarns woven as



306 Word



Category



Short description single yarns woven as one A two-dimensional woven or knitted fabric that has no pile loops. In garment, a hemming method



FLAT FABRIC



fabrics



FLAT HEM



garments, made-ups, assemblies



FLAT KNIT



fabrics



Knitting done in a flat form



FLAT KNIT FABRIC



fabrics



Knitting done in a flat form



FLAT KNITTING MACHINES



apparatus, equipage, tools



A weft-knitting machine



FLAT METAL YARN



fibers, filaments, yarns



A yarn consisting of one or more continuous lengths of metal strip



Description one and either single or plied weft yarn. See also Duck A two-dimensional woven or knitted fabric that has no pile loops. In garment, a hemming method in which the stitches pass over the edge of the hem allowance to the garment fabric Knitting done in a flat form. Hand-done on straight needles by knitting back and forth from side to side. Machine flat knitting permits full-fashioning. 1. A fabric constructed on a flatbed-knitting machine instead of a circular knitting unit. In the textile trade the term ‘flat knit’ is used to refer only to weft knits made on a flatbed machine. 2. In the underwear trade the term ‘flat knit’ is used to indicate a fabric with a flat surface as op-posed to a ribbed surface . A weft-knitting machine having straight needle beds carrying independently operated, usually latch needles A yarn consisting of one or more continuous lengths of metal strip or incorporating one or more continuous length(s) as a major component. An example is the single metal yarn in a currency note. Twist inserted in flat metal yarns may form irregular facets, which reflect light accordingly to give decorative effects in fabrics. See also



307 Word



Category



Short description



Description Metallized yarn. FLAT SETTING processes, The setting of fabric The setting of fabric at openoperations at open-width. width. The term is particularly used in the finishing of woven wool fabrics, where setting is usually done by steaming under pressure FLAT SHEET garments, See under Sheeting. See under Sheeting. made-ups, assemblies FLAT YARN fibers, See Twistless yarn. 1. Description of fully drawn filaments, continuous filament yarns, yarns substantially without twist and untextured. See Twistless yarn. 2. Fibre extracted from flax plants A complex seam formed on FLAT-FELLED SEAM seams, A complex seam the outside of an object with stitches formed on the outside of an object raw edges enclosed and two rows of machine stitching with raw edges enclosed and two visible on the face side. A flatfelled seam is made by (1) rows of machine placing two pieces of fabric stitching visible on with back sides together, (2) the face side. stitching on the 15 mm seamline, (3) trimming one half of one seam allowance, (4) pressing the two seam allowances to one side of the article having the wider allowance on top, (5) folding the wider, untrimmed seam allowance under until its raw edge abuts with that of the narrower seam allowance, and (6) topstitching along the folded edge through two layers of seam allowance and a layer of the object. The two rows of stitching visible on the face side are the seamline and the topstitching through the seam allowance and object. FLAT-SCREEN processes, The mechanical The mechanical method by PRINTING operations method by which the which the cloth is printed cloth is printed using using a number of stationary



308 Word



Category



FLATLOCK SEAM



seams, stitches



FLAX



fibers, filaments, yarns



Short description a number of stationary flat screens of a rectangular shape, working in a line.



Description flat screens of a rectangular shape, working in a line. The screens have colour pressed through the mesh. When they are lifted, the cloth moves on the space of one repeat and the process begins again. A butt seam formed A butt seam formed using a using a flatlock flatlock stitch. The edges of stitch. the fabric are trimmed during sewing. Name of the basic Name of the basic fibre from fibre from which linen which linen yarns and fabrics yarns and fabrics are are made. Flax is a bast fibre made. (of the species ‘Linum usitaitissimum’), being extracted from the stalk of flax plant. Flax fibres, formed of bundles of cells cemented together, are very long, upto 900 mm in length. They are much longer and coarser than cotton fibres and their thickness is irregular. Preparation of the fibres consists of splitting bundles of fibres, as obtained from the stalks, into individual long fi-bres and removing waste and broken fibres. Yarns produced from the long fibres are known as ‘line’ and those produced from the shorter irregular and broken fibres are ‘tow’. Yarns spun from flax tend to be uneven because of the length and variable thickness of the fibres. A special technique of spinning has to be used for the yarns, whereby the fibre cells are loosened so that the yarn can be drawn out to the requisite fineness, because it is impossible to draw out the long fibres in their entirety. Recent processing of linen can alter the molecular



309 Word



Category



Short description



FLAX CANVAS



fabrics



See also Linen canvas.



FLAX SPUN



fibers, filaments, yarns



FLAX, GREEN



fibers, filaments, yarns processes, operations



A term applied to staple yarn that has been prepared and spun on machinery originally designed for spinning yarns from flax. See Green flax



FLÈCHAGE



A term applied to staple yarn



Description structure of the fibres, which enables them to be purified, bleached, crimped and cut to staple lengths ready for blending as spun yarns with other fibres such as wool, cotton, polyester or acrylic. But the traditional method of bleaching the yarn or finished fabric rather than the fibres is in greater use worldwide. Flax is a cellulosic fibre, as is cotton, but it has a higher wax content, which together with a higher degree of crystallinity of the fibre, gives this distinctive lustre associated with linen. Purification of the fibre requires a plurality of treatment, which makes a more expensive process than cotton. Flax, an expensive but attractive fibre, mixes well with other fibres such as cotton and wool. It is often called flax when mixed in small quantities. See Linen. Some tailoring and embroidery canvas fabrics are referred to as flax canvas. See also Linen canvas. A term applied to staple yarn that has been prepared and spun on machinery originally designed for spinning yarns from flax.



See Green flax



Course shaping in knitting. A term increasingly used to define two and threedimensional shaping of knitted fabric by increasing and/or decreasing the length of succeeding knitted courses to



310 Word



Category



Short description



FLECK



defects



FLECK YARN



fibers, filaments, yarns



A defect in yarn or cloth caused by spots of various kinds A type of fancy yarn.



FLEECE



fibers, filaments, yarns fibers, filaments, yarns



FLEECE WOOL



FLEECED



fabrics



FLEECY



fabrics



Description a pre-planned series. Beret knitting is also a term used to describe this process. The term is derived from the French for wedge. See also Stitch holding. . A defect in yarn or cloth caused by spots of various kinds



A type of fancy yarn. A mixture yarn of spotted and short streaky appearance, due to the introduction of a minority of fibres of different colour and/or lustre. Fibrous covering of a Fibrous covering of a sheep or sheep or similar similar animal. animal. Any wool as shorn Any wool as shorn from a from a living sheep. living sheep. The term is in use to distinguish this wool from other forms such as skin wool Term applied to Term applied to fabric that has fabric that has a a napped surface. The napped surface process is often applied to knit fabrics. Term used to describe the feel Term used to describe the feel and and implied warmth of any fuzzy surfaced fabric. Fabric implied warmth of resembles a wool fleece in any fuzzy surfaced appearance and handle. The fabric. fabrics vary in quality and weight, but are mainly used for coats. The fabric may be cheap cotton, or acrylic, or it may be wool. The nap wears out on cheaper cloth. Garments may be refurbished with light hot iron, and brushed up the fleece on the right side. When used as a lining fabric it is called ‘fleecy lining’. Term is also used to describe fabric having a fine, soft, open, and raised structure.



311 Word FLEECY FABRIC



FLEECY LINING FLEXIBILITY



FLEXIBLE RAPIER



FLEXIBLE RAPIER LOOM FLEXOGRAPHY



FLEXURAL RIGIDITY FLIPPER FABRIC FLOAT



Category fabrics



Short description A plain, weft-knitted fabric with a ground yarn and in which a yarn of low twist, secured by a binder, appears on the back of the fabric and may be brushed or raised.



Description A plain, weft-knitted fabric with a ground yarn and in which a yarn of low twist, secured by a binder, appears on the back of the fabric and may be brushed or raised. Fleecy fabrics may be pro-duced with only two yarns. See also Laid fabric, Laid-in fabric,warp-kntited and Laid-in fabric,weft-knitted. fabrics See under Fleecy. See under Fleecy. That property of a fabric by fabrics That property of a virtue of which it may be fabric by virtue of flexed or bowed repeatedly which it may be without undergoing rupture. flexed or bowed See also Hand of fabric. repeatedly without undergoing rupture. apparatus, A flexible long thin A flexible long thin blade used equipage, blade to insert weft into the warp tools shed from the side. . apparatus, A loom using flexible A loom using flexible rapiers. equipage, rapiers. tools processes, Printing from rubber Printing from rubber rollers cut operations rollers cut in relief. in relief. In its rotary form, it is used in the wallpaper industry and is the main means of printing transfer paper for Transfer Printing. general Resistance of textiles Resistance of textiles to to bending. bending. fabrics See Filler Fabric See Filler Fabric under Tyre under Tyre Textiles. Textiles. 1. In the woven fabric, a yarn, fabrics, 1. In the woven which passes over two or defects fabric, a yarn, which more crosswise yarns. The passes over two or portion of a warp or weft yarn more crosswise that extends unbound over yarns. two or more weft or warp 2. In warp-knitted yarns. If it is present in a fabric, a length of fabric, unintended, it is a yarn not received by defect. 2. In warp-knitted a needle and connecting two loops fabric, a length of yarn not received by a needle and of nonconsecutive connecting two loops of courses. nonconsecutive courses. 3. Fabric defect. A length of yarn



312 Word



Category



Short description



FLOATING FIBRE INDEX



fibers, filaments, yarns accessories



See under Fibre length.



FLOCK



Description on the face of a fabric between adjacent intersections, i.e. a place in the fabric where a warp or weft yarn extends unbound over the ends with which it should be interlaced, caused mostly by ends breaking out, unclean warp or harness. See under Fibre length.



Very short fibres Very short fibres obtained by obtained by reducing reducing textile fibres to textile fibres to fragments as by cutting, fragments tearing, or grinding, to give various degrees of comminution, intended for application to a substrate as a partial or complete surface covering or filler. See also Flocked fabric. FLOCK DOT accessories Dots or figures of Dots or figures of flock applied flock applied to a to a fabric with paste, fabric with paste, adhesive, or rubber cement. adhesive, or rubber They are usually washable. cement. FLOCK PRINTING processes, A way of decorating A way of decorating fabric. An operations fabric. adhesive is printed on the fabric and finely chopped fibres are applied all over. These adhere only to the printed areas and are mechanically removed from the other parts of the fabric FLOCKED BLANKET fabrics See under Blanket. See under Blanket. FLOCKED FABRIC fabrics Many fabrics may be Many fabrics may be ‘flocked’ ‘flocked’ with very with very short fibres stuck to short fibres stuck to it it and their characteristic is that the right side of the fabric and their has tufts of fibres added in characteristic is that the right side of the dots or patterns. The fabrics fabric has tufts of are usually light and floaty, the fibres added in dots flocking may be in contrast or self colour and it may be or patterns. worked in a different type of fibre. The flocks are normally stuck on with an adhesive,



313 Word



Category



Short description



FLOCKING



processes, operations



A process by which weight is added to woollens



FLOÇONNÉ



fibers, filaments, yarns, fabrics



A French term for flaked yarn or fabric.



FLOODSTROKE



processes, operations



A single stroke (or passage of the squeegee) made while the screens are raised from the table, in flat screenprinting.



FLOOR COVERING



garments, An essentially planar made-ups, material assemblies



FLOORING MATERIAL



garments, made-ups, assemblies



Any pliable planar structure used as a base surface in camping tentage



FLOPPED



fabrics



A form of packaging of a long length of fabric.



Description which is applied to the fabric in a pattern. The surplus flock fibres are afterwards blown off. Flocked nylon is a common fabric for saris, etc. See also Flock A process by which weight is added to woollens by steaming fibres in to the back of the cloth. A French term for flaked yarn or fabric. Also, woollen dress goods or overcoating with a deeply napped face which is sometimes twisted into nubs A single stroke (or passage of the squeegee) made while the screens are raised from the table, in flat screen-printing. This fills the mesh with printpaste before the screen is lowered to cloth level and the usual squeegee stroke is made; thus in the time of a single stroke almost double the quantity of print-paste is applied to the cloth An essentially planar material, having a relatively small thickness in comparison to its length or width, which is laid on a floor to enhance the beauty, comfort, and utility of the floor. Any pliable planar structure used as a base surface in camping tentage, but excluding such things as rugs or carpets placed in the tent that are not integral parts of the item. A form of packaging of a long length of fabric. The fabric is folded backwards and forwards on itself over a dimension between 0.6 m and 1 m. The finished form is like a rectangular box. Flopped



314 Word



FLORENTINE



FLOSS



FLOUNCE



FLOUNCING



FLUID-JET LOOM



FLUIDITY



FLUORESCENT BRIGHTENING AGENT FLUORESCENT DYES



Category



Short description



Description fabric is considered to be in a more relaxed state than rolled fabric and is therefore the desirable packaging form for knitted fabric even though it presents transportation difficulties unless wrapped. Heavy grey woven 3/1 twill fabrics Heavy grey woven 3/1 twill cotton fabric, cotton fabric, used for overalls and uniforms used for overalls and uniforms fibers, A silky embroidery 1. Very short tangled fibre of filaments, yarn. waste silk. yarns 2. A silky embroidery yarn. garments, A ruffled drop on a A ruffled drop on a made-ups, bedcovering. bedcovering. assemblies fabrics Fabric of any type of Fabric of any type of fibre fibre which has one which has one selvedge selvedge shaped in shaped in scallops. The edge scallops. is finished off, usually with embroidery. apparatus, See under See under Shuttleless loom. equipage, Shuttleless loom. tools general Fluidity of a cellulose Fluidity of a cellulose solution, solution is a measure of the ease of flow or motion of a solution, and therefore an indicator of the molecular weight of the cellulose. ³ A decorative lace See Fluorescent whitening agent. ³



Dyes which reflect more light than conventional dyes.



Dyes which reflect more light than conventional dyes. This adds brilliancy or iridescent appearance to yarns and fabrics. See also Fluorescent whitening agent Also called Fluorescent FLUORESCENT chemicals, These colourless WHITENING AGENT textile compounds are used brightening agent and Optical brightening agent. These auxiliaries for imparting colourless compounds are outstanding whiteness to textiles. used for imparting outstanding whiteness to textiles. Although not strictly considered dyes,



315 Word



Category



FLUOROCARBON FIBRE



fibers, filaments, yarns



FLUOROFIBRE



fibers, filaments, yarns



FLUOROPOLYMER FIBRE



fibers, filaments, yarns fabrics



FLUSHING



FLY



Short description



Description fluorescent whitening agents add light to substrate. They absorb incident near UV radiation and re-emit visible (violet-blue) radiation. They counteract the reflection of excessive yellow by addition of light emitted at the blue end of the colour spectrum. They thereby not only improve the distribution over the special range but also add to the total amount of light reflected. This causes a yellowish material to which it has been applied to appear whiter. Also called Fluoropolymer All fibres with a high fibre. All fibres with a high proportion of fluorine proportion of fluorine atoms as atoms as substituents on the carbon substituents on the chain of a polymer molecule. carbon chain of a polymer molecule. A term used to A term used to describe fibres describe fibres composed of linear composed of linear macromolecules made from macromolecules fluorocarbon aliphatic made from monomers. fluorocarbon aliphatic monomers. See Fluorocarbon See Fluorocarbon fibre. fibre.



A heavy woollen A heavy woollen coating cloth coating cloth originally made in Flushing, originally made in Holland. See also Duffel. Flushing, Holland. 1. A fabric-covered opening, A fabric-covered garments, made-ups, opening, to conceal to conceal a fastening (e.g. buttons, zip). A blind fly is a fastening (e.g. assemblies, fastened instead of left open buttons, zip). fibers, along the finished edge. filaments, 2. Fibres, which fly out into the yarns, atmosphere during carding, defects drawing, spinning or other textile proc-esses. 3. Yarn defect, usually minor, but severe size and colour could be major. Mostly caused



316 Word



FLY CATCH



FLY SHIELD



FLY SHOT LOOM



FLY-FRONT APPLICATION



FLYER FLYER SPINNING



Category



Short description



garments, See Catch. made-ups, assemblies garments, A piece of fabric that made-ups, extends beyond the assemblies zipper teeth on the underlapping side of a fly-front zipper application apparatus, A multi-piece equipage, weaving machine for tools narrow fabrics



accessories



A method of zipper application, in which the zipper is concealed by a wide flap of fabric and a fabric shield covers the back of the zipper. defects See Loom fly processes, A spinning system in operations which yarn passes through a revolving flyer leg guide on to the package



FLYLINE



garments, made-ups, assemblies



FOAM



general



The line of the fly fastening from the centre of the fork to the top of the waistband on a pair of trou-sers. A dispersion of a gas



Description in the spin-ning process. Small fibres (flies), spun into the yarn of another stock, often caused by the lack of precaution to prevent contamination. See also Lint See Catch.



A piece of fabric that extends beyond the zipper teeth on the underlapping side of a fly-front zipper application



A multi-piece weaving machine for narrow fabrics in which each shuttle is knocked through the open shed by means of a peg fixed in a slide. The term is also sometimes applied to singlehead narrow-fabric looms. A method of zipper application, in which the zipper is concealed by a wide flap of fabric and a fabric shield covers the back of the zipper. Fly-front application typically used is at the centre of men’s pants. See Loom fly A spinning system in which yarn passes through a revolving flyer leg guide on to the package. The yarn is wound-on by making the flyer and spinning package rotate at slightly different speeds. See also Spinning The line of the fly fastening from the centre of the fork to the top of the waistband on a pair of trou-sers.



A dispersion of a gas in a



317 Word FOAM BONDING



FOAM TEAR



FOAM-BACKED FABRIC FOGMARKING



Category



Short description Description in a liquid or solid. liquid or solid. processes, A method of making A method of making nonoperations non-woven fabrics woven fabrics in which a fibre web or batt is treated by application of a foamed adhesive material. See also Adhesive bonded non-woven fabric. In laminated fabrics, a fabrics In laminated fabrics, condition wherein the foam a condition wherein the foam portion of portion of the fabric ruptures the fabric ruptures prior to the failure of the bond. prior to the failure of the bond. fabrics See Laminates. See Laminates.



processes, The soiling of textiles The soiling of textiles during operations during processing by processing by deposition of deposition of atmospheric dirt. The stains atmospheric dirt. are characterised by their resistance to removal by normal scouring processes. FOLD processes, To combine by Also known as Double, Twist operations twisting together two and Ply. To combine by or more single yarns twisting together two or more to form a fodder single yarns to form a fodder yarn. yarn. FOLDED fabrics See Curled See Curled selvedge. SELVEDGE selvedge. FOLDED YARN fibers, Also called Doubled Also called Doubled yarn and filaments, yarn and Plied yarn. Plied yarn. A yarn in which yarns two or more single yarns are combined by a single twisting operation. FOLDER apparatus, A machine for 1. A machine for measuring equipage, measuring and and folding piece goods. tools folding piece goods. 2. In sewing machine, an attachment which folds material as it is fed through so that it is sewn in to the desired configuration. FOLDING DEFECTS defects See under Garment See under Garment defects, IN GARMENT defects, classified. classified. FOLK WEAVE fabrics Loosely woven, Loosely woven, coarse yarn coarse yarn fabrics fabrics with a woven pattern with a woven pattern often including several often including colours. Woven on dobby or



318 Word



Category



Short description several colours.



FONDU



processes, operations general



See Rainbowing.



FORCE



FORCE AT BREAK FORCE-ATRUPTURE



general general



FOREIGN BODY



defects



FOREIGN FIBRES



defects



FOREIGN MATTER



fibers, filaments, yarns



Description Jacquard looms. Yarns used are cotton, viscose, acrylic. Patterns are usually striped with possibly diamonds or other small patterns between them. Do not crease easily and are used for bedcovers, curtains, loose covers and cushion covers. See Rainbowing.



A physical influence A physical influence exerted exerted by one body by one body on another which on another produces acceleration of bodies that are free to move and deformation of bodies that are not free to move. (Compare Strength.) See Breaking force. See Breaking force. The force applied to The force applied to a material immediately preceding a material rupture. immediately preceding rupture. Fabric defect. An Fabric defect. An inclusion of inclusion of nonnon-textile matter. The defect textile matter. is often caused by insufficient attention to the cleanliness of the weaving/knitting machines and the production room. Fabric defect Fabric defect. Fibres of a different type and/or colour from the other fibres in the fabric. It is often caused by the contamination of the fabric by extraneous fibre which is either included in the yarn or woven/knitted into the fabric. In cotton, non-lint material In cotton, non-lint commonly referred to as material commonly referred to as waste waste or trash such as dust, sand, seed-coat fragments, or trash such as leaves, and stems normally dust, sand, seedpresent in raw and partially coat fragments, processed cotton. leaves, and stems normally present in raw and partially processed cotton.



319 Word FOREPARTS



FORK



FORK QUANTITY



FORM



FORMED FABRIC



FORMED YARN



FORTUNE



FOULARD



Category Short description Description garments, The fronts of a jacket The fronts of a jacket or coat. made-ups, or coat. This section of the garment assemblies extends from the front edge to the side seam horizontally and from the hem to the shoulder seam vertically. garments, See also Crutch. The point of a pair of trousers made-ups, at which the legs join. See assemblies also Crutch. garments, The allowance of The allowance of material in made-ups, material in bifurcated bifurcated garments provided assemblies garments for the thickness through the trunk from front to back at the crutch. In hat manufacture, the processes, In hat manufacture, production of a loosely operations the production of a constructed cone of fur by loosely constructed drawing a weighed quantity of cone of fur blown fur onto a revolving perforated metal cone, the adhering layer of fur being moistened by spraying with water and subsequently carefully removed from the cone by hand. An assembly of textile fibres fabrics An assembly of held together by such textile fibres held techniques as the mechanical together by such techniques as the interlocking of fibres in a web, by fusing of thermoplastic mechanical interlocking of fibres fibre, or by bonding fibres with in a web, by fusing of added adhesive substance. thermoplastic fibre, or by bonding fibres with added adhesive substance. fibers, See Plied yarn See Plied yarn filaments, yarns fabrics A combination yarn A combination yarn fabric fabric which employed acetate voile yarns and combination acetate-rayon yarns in warp and weft. Used mainly for women’s apparel. fabrics Soft, printed, Soft, printed, lightweight plain lightweight plain or or twill-weave fabric, which



320 Word



Category



FOULÉ



fabrics



FOUNDATION NET FOUR-HARNESS SATIN FOX



fabrics fabrics



FOY



FRAME YARN



FRANCIES



FRAY



FREE ALKALI



fibers, filaments, yarns



Short description Description twill-weave fabric, can be made of silk, acetate, which can be made viscose, polyester or of silk, acetate, triacetate. Printed patterns viscose, polyester or usually take the form of small triacetate figures on contrasting background colours. Used for softstyled dresses and blouses, robes, scarves and men’s light dressing gowns. A fabric in twill weave with a A fabric in twill weave with a finish finish that is neither sheared nor singed. The surface is that is neither sheared nor singed. rough; considerable shrinkage gives the texture. Derived from the French word ‘fouler’, meaning, ‘to full’ or ‘to shrink’ See under Ground. See under Ground. See under Crowfoot. See under Crowfoot. The fur is blue-gray, The fur is blue-gray, red or silver in colour, the tail is often red or silver in used as trimming and an colour, the tail is interesting effect is achieved often used as by adding the fur from the trimming and an paws. interesting effect is achieved by adding the fur from the paws. See Fully oriented See Fully oriented yarn yarn



fibers, filaments, yarns garments, Pile yarn in a Wilton Pile yarn in a Wilton carpet made-ups, carpet type. type. assemblies fabrics Fabrics, which are Fabrics, which are woven or woven or coloured in coloured in patterns patterns defects, See Felter. 1. When a shifting or slipping processes, of one set of yarns over the operations other occurs in the woven cloth, or at the cut or unfinished stage. 2. See Felter. 3. To ravel or wear out threads in a fabric so that cross threads are loose. ³ Caustic soda and Caustic soda and caustic



321 Word



Category



Short description Description caustic potash that potash that have not been have not been united united with any neutralising with any neutralising substance. This form of alkali substance. harms wool and silk fabrics if a soap containing free alkali is used to clean them. FREE DYE general An impurity of the An impurity of the drycleaning solvent; known as dye CONTAMINATION drycleaning solvent; bleeding that occurs most known as dye bleeding that occurs often in hot, summer months. most often in hot, Sufficient carbon should be in the filtering system to absorb summer months. the dye. See Insoluble soil and Solvent-soluble soil. An air-jet textured yarn in FREE-FIBRE-END fibers, An air-jet textured which the protruding filament YARN filaments, yarn in which the yarns protruding filament loops are cut or broken. Such yarn resembles a spun staple loops are cut or yarn, because of its hairy broken. surface FRENCH BACK fabrics See Backed cloth See Backed cloth weave. WEAVE weave. FRENCH CLEANING processes, Drycleaning was Drycleaning was originally operations originally known as known as ‘French cleaning’. ‘French cleaning’. FRENCH CRÊPE fabrics Very soft lightweight, Very soft lightweight, inexpensive fabric inexpensive fabric for lingerie, now usually made from polyamide. FRENCH CRÊPE accessories See under Cable See under Cable cord. CORD cord. FRENCH DOUBLE fabrics See under Double See under Double piqué. PIQUÉ piqué. FRENCH KNOT seams, A decorative A decorative embroidery stitch stitches embroidery stitch made by twisting the thread several times around the needle. A complex seam formed on FRENCH SEAM seams, A complex seam stitches formed on the inside the inside of the object with both raw edges enclosed and of the object with no stitching rows visible on both raw edges the face side. A French seam enclosed and no stitching rows visible is made by (1) placing two pieces of fabric with back on the face side. sides together, (2) stitching a seam line 10 mm from the raw edge, (3) pressing the seam



322 Word



FRENCH SERGE



FRENCH TACK



FRENCH WELT



FRICTION



Category



Short description



Description flat and then open, (4) trimming the seam allowance to 3 mm if the fabric does not ravel easily, or slightly less than 6 mm if the fabric ravels easily, (5) slightly clipping or notching, as appropriate, any curved edges in order to lie flat, (6) folding the face sides of the fabric together, (7) pressing again with the stitched seam exactly on the folded edge, and (8) stitching 6 mm from the folded edge which results in completely enclosing the seam allowance. These two seam allowances make a total of 15 mm, the standard seam allowance. No stitching lines are visible from the face side. (Compare Mock French seam.) fabrics Very superior quality Very superior quality serge serge fabric fabric used for women’s tailored clothes. processes, A method of A method of attaching one operations attaching one part of part of a garment to another a garment to another while still allowing ease between them. garments, See Tubular welt See Tubular welt under Welt. made-ups, under Welt. assemblies general In physics, friction is In physics, friction is the force that opposes the relative the force that motion of two bodies in opposes the relative contact. Friction is greatly motion of two bodies reduced by the use of in contact. lubricants such as oil, grease, and graphite. Air bearings are now used to minimise friction in high speed rotational machinery. In simple terms, friction is the resistance to the relative motion of one body sliding, rolling, or flowing over another body with which it is in contact. See Coefficient of



323 Word



Category



Short description



FRICTION CALENDERING



processes, operations



The process of passing fabric through a calender



FRICTION SPINNING



processes, operations



A method of openend spinning which uses the external surface of two rotating rollers to collect and twist individual fibres into yarn



FRICTION TOWEL



fabrics



A terry cloth with linen pile



FRICTION TWISTING



processes, operations



The generation of false-twist



Description friction. The process of passing fabric through a calender in which a highly polished, usually heated, steel bowl rotates at higher surface speed than a softer (e.g. cotton- or paperfilled) bowl against which it works, thus producing a glaze on the face of the fabric that is in contact with the steel bowl. The friction ratio is the ratio of the peripheral speed of the faster steel bowl to that of the slower bowl and is normally in the range of 1.5 to 3.0. A method of open-end spinning which uses the external surface of two rotating rollers to collect and twist individual fibres into yarn. At least one of the rollers is perforated so that air can be drawn through its surface to facilitate fibre collection. The twisting occurs near the nip of the rollers and, because of the relatively large difference between the yarn and roller diameters, high yarn rotational speeds are achieved by the friction between the roller surface and the yarns. See also Spinning. A terry cloth with linen pile, made to develop friction after bathing The generation of false-twist by a device in which the yarn lies in contact with one or more surfaces of high friction driven in a direction at a substantial angle to the yarn axis. In practise, friction disks, belts or bushes, are commonly used. One rotation of the disc, belts, or bushes generates many turns of twist.



324 Word



Category



Short description



FRICTIONAL CONSTRAINT



general



The force imposed by the multitude of fibre-to-fibre contacts within a fabric.



FRIEZE



fabrics



FRIGIDINESS FRINGE



Named after Friesland in Holland, it is a heavy woollen overcoating fabrics A type of haircloth. accessories An edging or border of loose threads, tassels, or loops



FRINGED EMBROIDERY



fabrics



Base fabric, usually synthetic, with fringing on one edge



FRISE FRISONS



fabrics fibers, filaments, yarns



See Frieze Also called Kibisu, Knubbs, Strusa.



Description See also Pin-twisting. 1. The force imposed by the multitude of fibre-to-fibre contacts within a fabric. 2. In textile wet processing, the resistance to fibre movement imposed by fibreto-fibre contacts within a fabric. Named after Friesland in Holland, it is a heavy woollen overcoating with a rough, fuzzy, and frizzy face A type of haircloth. 1. An edging or border of loose threads, tassels, or loops. These may be produced by the constituent threads or by threads added to a fabric after weaving or knitting. 2. Narrow fabric trimming, which has, on both edges, cut or looped weft threads, which extend sub-stantially beyond the width of the warp threads to form a decorative edge. The threads forming the fringe are bunched or knotted together to increase the decorative effect. Tassels, balls, or other adornments are sometimes added. That part of a fringe comprising both warp and weft is known as the ‘heading’. That part of a fringe containing only weft is known as ‘skirt’. See also Bullion fringe. Base fabric, usually synthetic, with fringing on one edge. For draping, the fringe is often viscose rayon. See Frieze Also called Kibisu, Knubbs, Strusa.The first waste obtained in the process of



325 Word



Category



FRISURE



fibers, filaments, yarns, accessories



FRIZZING



processes, operations



FROCKING



fabrics



FROG POCKET



garments, made-ups, assemblies



FRONT BREAKPOINT



garments, made-ups, assemblies garments, made-ups, assemblies



FRONT RISE



FROSTED YARN



fibers, filaments, yarns



FROSTING



defects



Short description



Description reeling silk cocoons, composed of the tangled first lengths of the silk filament which are removed by the reeler upto the point when the filament begins to reel properly. A core yarn made 1. A core yarn made with gold with gold or silver or silver thread wound around thread wound around the central thread. Used for passe-menterie. the central thread. 2. A thin gold or silver wire braid used on military uniforms. A finishing process A finishing process employed employed on wool on wool chinchilla fabric. chinchilla fabric. A coarse cotton cloth A coarse cotton cloth such as such as denim, drill, denim, drill, dungaree, jean, or dungaree, jean, or fustain, etc. fustain, etc. A trouser pocket A trouser pocket opening opening approximately 12 cm. across the waist band from the side seam, and about 12 cm. down the side seam from the waist band seam, which is fastened in the corner with a hole and button and when opened, folded down to form a triangular flap. Garment-related Garment-related term. See term. under Garment sizing system. The distance on a garment The distance on a from the crutch to the centre garment from the front of the waistline crutch to the centre front of the waistline A flecked yarn spun A flecked yarn spun from a from a blend of blend of acetate staple and acetate staple and cotton or rayon staple. When cotton or rayon dyed only the cotton takes the staple. colour, the acetate remaining white and giving the flecked appearance Also called Colour Also called Colour abrasion. A abrasion. change colour of fabric



326 Word



Category



Short description



FUGITIVE DYE FUGITIVE TINT



³ chemicals, textile auxiliaries



See Fugitive tint. A colorant lacking durability to one or more of the various colour destroying agents such as sunlight or washing.



FUJI



fabrics



Should be pure silk, but may be imitated in viscose, acetate, triacetate yarn.



FULL BUST GIRTH



garments, made-ups, assemblies fabrics



Garment-related term.



Description caused by localised abrasive wear. Frosting may be the result of differential wear, as in multicomponent blends in which the fibres do not match in shade, or of the abrasion of single-fibre constructions in which there is some variation in penetration or incomplete penetration of dye-stuff. The use of the terms Differential wear and Fibrillation as substitutes for the concept of frosting is undesirable. See Fugitive tint. Also called Sighting colour and Fugitive dye. A colorant lacking durability to one or more of the various colour destroying agents such as sunlight or washing. Often applied to textile materials for their identification during handling. The colorant can be easily removed during normal textile scouring or dyeing processes. Should be pure silk, but may be imitated in viscose, acetate, triacetate yarn. Only difference in use and handling between these and pure silk would be the necessity for a cooler iron and moisture if necessary. Garment-related term. See under Garment sizing system.



See Polka rib.



See Polka rib.



FULL CARDIGAN RIB FULL-BLEACH FINISH



FULLING



The process of bleaching cotton textile goods to a clear white. During the process the cotton has all its natural colouring matter removed. See Half-bleach finish. processes, A finishing process in Also called Waulking and



processes, operations



The process of bleaching cotton textile goods to a clear white.



327 Word



FULLNESS



FULLY CUT GARMENT



Category Short description Description operations the woollen industry, sometimes referred to as which involves the Tucking. A finishing process in application of the woollen industry, which moisture, heat, involves the application of friction and pressure. moisture, heat, friction and pressure. It results in felting, shrinking and thickening of the wool, and may produce further varied effects depending upon the extent of the process. The additional amount of one garments, The additional of the fabrics joined at a made-ups, amount of one of the seam, which is allowed, in assemblies fabrics joined at a order to create the desired seam, which is allowed, in order to shape in a part of a finished create the desired garment, e.g. a sleeve head. See also Easing-in. shape in a part of a finished garment, e.g. a sleeve head. garments, Fully cut is a class of Fully cut is a class of knitted garment derived from piece made-ups, knitted garment goods. All the edges of the assemblies derived from piece goods. All the edges pieces of the garment are cut. of the pieces of the The term ‘fully cut’ describes garment are cut. The the processes most akin to making garments from woven term ‘fully cut’ fabric. Garments are cut from describes the processes most akin piece goods fabric, laid up to making garments (spread) on to cutting tables. from woven fabric. All parts of the garment other than the trims are cut from the lay. Each garment piece has all edges cut, hence the term ‘fully cut’. The garments are assembled by seaming machines, often of a specialist nature, and trims are added where appropriate. The fabric for this process is invariably knitted on circular knitting machines; mostly on ‘Single jersey or plain web machine’ and ‘Double jersey or rib machine’. These machines vary in diameter, the number of needles per inch/centimetre (gauge), the number of courses they can knit in one revolution (number of



328 Word



FULLY DRAWN YARN



Category



fibers, filaments, yarns FULLY FASHIONED garments, GARMENT made-ups, assemblies



Short description



See Fully oriented yarn.



Description feeders), and their fabric patterning capabilities. See Fully oriented yarn.



Fully fashioned are Fully fashioned are garments constructed from garment garments portions of weft knitted fabric constructed from garment portions of having shaped selvages. In weft knitted fabric this process the shapes of the pieces are generated by having shaped movement of loops at the selvages. edges to diminish or enlarge the width of the fabric i.e. the portions of a garment are shaped at the selvedges by progressively increasing or decreasing the number of loops in the width of the fabric. Such narrowing and widening produces the shape of a piece of garment that would otherwise be generated by cutting. FULLY FASHIONING processes, In weft knitting, a In weft knitting, a term applied to garment portions in which operations term applied to the parts are shaped by garment portions in which the parts are widening and/or narrowing by shaped by widening loop transference to increase or decrease the number of and/or narrowing by loop transference to wales. The pre-shaped pieces increase or decrease are subsequently stitched the number of wales together to form a garment. See also Fully fashioned garment. FULLY ORIENTED fibers, Also called Fully Also called Fully drawn yarn. YARN filaments, drawn yarn. A melt-spun continuous yarns filament yarn that has been highly oriented either by drawing at a high draw ratio or by spinning at a high wind-up speed such that little or no residual drawability remains. These terms are used in contrast to Low orientation yarn and Partially oriented yarn. FUME FADING processes, See Atmospheric See Atmospheric fading.



329 Word FUNICULI



FUNICULUS



FUR



FUR FABRIC



FUR FELT



FUR TRIMMING



Category operations fibers, filaments, yarns fibers, filaments, yarns



Short description fading. See Funiculus.



Description See Funiculus.



The slender stalk of The slender stalk of an ovule an ovule or seed or seed, by which the growing seed is attached to the placenta of the boll. Plural is ‘Funiculi’. fibers, The fine, soft, dense The fine, soft, dense hair filaments, hair covering of covering of certain mammals. yarns certain mammals Fur is distinguished from hair which is comparatively longer and harsher. Fur fibre is generally spun in combination with other fibres, e.g. wool, cotton, and rayon staple fibre. fabrics Also called Fake Also called Fake furs. furs. Imitation fur is made from synthetic fibre, usually acrylic or nylon pile, on a firm jersey or woven backing, with the fibres knitted directly into the cloth. Is fairly expensive, available in a wide range of colours and types, some deliberately imitating real fur, some blatantly unreal. Used for coats, jackets, children’s coats, hats, collars, cuffs, etc. Sometimes rabbit, rat and fabrics Sometimes rabbit, rat and beaver hairs beaver hairs are added to felt are added to felt to to give a sheen and surface texture. These felts are give a sheen and expensive and usually only surface texture. used for millinery. Fur strips cut in lengths or accessories Fur strips cut in lengths or taken from taken from a roll according to a roll according to requirements. From fur fabric or real fur which are available requirements. in strips normally from about 6 to 20 cm in width. The fur is usually backed with a thin layer of synthetic foam and edged with cotton tape. Real furs will have been joined before being backed. This edging may be used for hats,



330 Word



Category



Short description



FURNISHING BRUSH/ROLLER



apparatus, equipage, tools



The brush/roller that rotates in the colour trough



FURNISHING FABRICS



fabrics



A term for decorative fabrics of all kinds, such as upholstery and drapery. See Upholstery cord



FURNITURE CORD



FURNITURE COVERING



FUSE



FUSED COLLAR FABRIC



Description cuffs, collars, etc., and is applied to existing detail. It is useful for lengthening coats, but in this case it must be backed with lining, or the coat first lengthened with cloth before the fur strip is applied on top. The brush/roller that rotates in the colour trough and supplies the printing roller with colour in engraved cylinder or surface roller printing A term for decorative fabrics of all kinds, such as upholstery and drapery.



garments, See Upholstery cord made-ups, assemblies garments, A general term for A general term for attached made-ups, attached upholstery upholstery fabric, slipcovers assemblies fabric, slipcovers and and throws. throws. fibers, To melt with the To melt with the application of filaments, application of heat. heat. Thermoplastic fibres yarns melt or fuse between 400 to 500° F., and therefore require lower temperatures when ironing or pressing fabrics Specially prepared Specially prepared interlining interlining for shirt for shirt collars. It is bonded or collars. It is bonded fused to the two outer plies of or fused to the two the collar by the application of solvents, heat and pressure. outer plies of the There are two methods collar by the bonding generally used. application of In the wet process, an solvents, heat and interlining made of cotton pressure. interwoven with acetate yarn is fused to the two outer plies of the collar by the application of an acetone base solvent, which plasticizes the acetate fibres, plus heat and pressure. In the dry process a cotton interlining is coated with acetate cellulose film, which is



331 Word



FUSED FABRIC



FUSED SELVEDGE FUSIBLE FABRIC



FUSIBLE INTERLINING



FUSING



FUSING DEFECTS IN GARMENT FUSTIAN



FUSTIC



FUZZ



Category



Short description



Description softened by steam and heat, and under pressure it becomes a bond between the cotton interlining and the two outer plies. fabrics A type of bonded A type of bonded fabric made fabric by adhering a fusible fabric to another fabric, such as for use in interlining. fabrics See under Selvedge See under Selvedge fabrics A utilitarian fabric A utilitarian fabric which has a which has a thermoplastic adhesive thermoplastic applied to one side, adhesive applied to sometimes in a pattern of one side dots, so that the surface can be bonded to another fabric surface by the use of heat and pressure. See also Laminates fabrics An interlining fabric An interlining fabric, which has been treated so that it adhere to other fabrics by the application of heat and pressure. The action of bonding a processes, The action of operations bonding a fusible fusible interlining to a garment piece, by the action of heat interlining to a and pressure. garment piece, by the action of heat and pressure. defects See under Garment See under Garment defects, defects, classified. classified.. Any class of hard-wearing fabrics Any class of hardtype of clothing fabric, heavily wearing type of wefted, made from different clothing fabric, heavily wefted, made natural fibres mostly cotton, from different natural e.g. Swansdown, Imperial fibres mostly cotton Sateen, Moleskin, Velveteen, Corduroy. ³ A natural yellow A natural yellow dyestuff dyestuff obtained from the heartwood of the tree ‘Chlorophora tinctoria’. Mainly employed in dyeing wool. Now largely in disuse. fibers, Untangled fibre ends Untangled fibre ends that filaments, that protrude from protrude from the surface of a yarns the surface of a yarn yarn or fabric.



332 Word



Category



FUZZ BALL



defects



FUZZING



defects



FUZZY FUZZY PATTERN



defects defects



FWA



³



Short description or fabric. Fabric defect



Description



Fabric defect. Also called Lint ball, Snow ball, Balling up. Loose and frayed fibres that have formed into a ball and have then been woven or knitted into the fabric Also called Fuzzy and Hairy. A fabric condition A fabric condition characterised by a characterised by a hairy hairy appearance appearance due to broken due to broken fibres fibres or filaments. This or filaments. unwanted change in appearance of the fabric can occur during washing, dry cleaning, testing or in wear. See Fuzzing. See Fuzzing. Printing defect. Printing defect. The edges of printed patterns are not sharp, sharp, clear lines, but are instead rather fuzzy lines. Most frequently caused by improperly thickened print paste. Sometimes it may also occur, if the fabric is not properly singed. See Fluorescent See Fluorescent whitening whitening agent. agent.



G Word GABERDINE



Category fabrics



Short description Traditionally it was a fine quality wool fabric showing clear prominent steep sloping twill with a prominent rib on the face and a flat back. Always has more warp than weft. Long floats make the diagonal lines, and there are short floats between the wales.



Description Traditionally it was a fine quality wool fabric showing clear prominent steep sloping twill with a prominent rib on the face and a flat back. Always has more warp than weft. Long floats make the diagonal lines, and there are short floats between the wales. Fabric is lightweight and, due to the close weave and steep slope of the rib, gaberdine (especially gaberdine worsted) is amazingly water repellent.



333 Word



Category



Short description



Description Other fibres used include cotton, viscose, wool, silk, polyester and cotton. The steep twill is obtained by setting the warp yarns closely together, and opening the weft yarn spacing. The face twills are made prominent by arranging the loom so that warp yarns on the back of the cloth are pulled together than those on the face. The 2/2 twill is the standard weave, but the 2/1 twill is also used. Union gaberdines are made using a worsted wool warp and a cotton weft. The special construction hides the weft almost completely. Very fine construction can be used in all cotton gaberdines and fabrics of staple fibre rayon are also made. Whilst it is primarily a rainwear fabric gaberdine is made in a variety of weights, constructions and colours for dress and suiting use; some of the cotton dress styles are made in a drill (3/1) weave. GAGE general See Gauge. See Gauge. GAGING THREAD accessories A heavy thread A heavy thread temporarily temporarily woven woven near the edge of a fabric. near the edge of a It is withdrawn, after weaving, fabric. leaving the filling threads forming a loop selvedge. Similar to Catch cord. 1. IN FLAX. A large handful of IN FLAX. A large GAIT fibers, loose, pulled flax, stood up on handful of loose, filaments, end in a cone form to dry. pulled flax, stood up yarns, 2. IN LACE MACHINES. on end in a cone apparatus, (a) The distance between the form to dry. equipage, centres of adjacent comb tools, blades. processes, (b) A measure of the distance operations over which a thread is moved, e.g. ‘two gaits’ means ‘across two spaces’. 3. IN WEAVING. (a) Also called Gait-up, Gaiting.



334 Word



Category



Short description



GAIT UP



processes, operations fabrics



See Gait



GAIT-OVER



GAITING GALA TWILL GALATEA



GALLOON



GALLOON LACE



GAPING



GARANCINE



GARMENT



A complete repeat design in dobby weave. See Gait and Gating



Description General term used to describe the positioning of the warp, healds, and reed in the loom, in readiness for weaving. Where drop wires are inserted on the warp during warp preparation, gaiting also includes the positioning of the drop wires in the loom. See also Loom-ing. (b) A full repeat of the draft in the healds, or in case of jacquard, in one complete row of the har-ness. See Gait A complete repeat design in dobby weave.



processes, See Gait and Gating operations fabrics A four up, four down, A four up, four down, twill twill weave. weave. fabrics Cotton fabric in twill Cotton fabric in twill weave, weave, made plain, made plain, or in simple stripe or in simple stripe patterns, for nurses’ uniforms, patterns children’s clothes, linings. Is given a hard lustrous finish, which repels dirt accessories Ribbon used as a 1. Ribbon used as a band on band on men’s hats, men’s hats, and as a binding on and as a binding on ladies’ court shoes; the metallic ladies’ court shoes ones used to decorate uniforms. 2. Any narrow fabric used for trimming. fabrics Lace fabric with a Lace fabric with a finished finished scalloped scalloped edge on both sides. edge on both sides See also Banded laces. defects Fabric defect in Fabric defect in crêpe goods, crêpe goods, caused caused by irregular shrinkage of by irregular the yarns. An uneven twist in shrinkage of the the yarn causes the irregular yarns. shrinkage, resulting in gaping or uneven closing of threads. processes, A style of maroon to A style of maroon to red-brown operations red-brown prints prints produced by treating the madder root with sulphuric acid. garments, A shaped article of A shaped article of textile fabric,



335 Word



GARMENT BLANK



GARMENT DEFECTS



Category Short description made-ups, textile fabric, or other assemblies flexible sheet material, intended to cover portions of the human body.



garments, made-ups, assemblies defects



Description or other flexible sheet material, intended to cover portions of the human body. Garments may be grouped as: Activewear, Blouses, Bottoms, Bridal, Dresses, Dress shirts, Foundations, Hosiery, Outerwear, Pyjamas, Robes, Skirts, Sleepwear, Sport coats Sport shirts, Suits, Sweaters, Swimwear, Tailored clothing, Underwear, Uniforms, Workwear, Tops, etc. See Knitted blank. See Knitted blank.



Critical,



Garment manufacturing involves many varied operations and a very large number of operators. Operations, with some exceptions, are largely controlled by the operator and not machine-controlled. Fabric types and garment styles are being increasingly diversified in a great way. Methods, trimmings and machinery are being continual changed. All these facts may contribute to garment defects of varied type, size and intensity. Assessment/Assortment of garment defects: The garment defects are, generally, classified for the purpose of evaluation, into: Critical defects in garment: Defects, which could result in hazardous or unsafe conditions for indi-viduals using or maintaining the product as well as defects contravening the legal regulations. Major defects in garment: Functional defects reducing the usability or the expected lifetime of the product as well as obvious visual defects reducing the sales-value of the product or



336 Word



Category



GARMENT DEFECTS, CLASSIFIED



defects



Short description



Description making it un-saleable. Minor defects in garment: Minor visual defects Garment defects, classified Garment defects, according to the various classified according manufacturing stages are: to the various Pattern defects in garment: manufacturing Some parts of pattern are stages missing, probably because the marker did not include the correct number of parts. Mixed parts, probably because the marker is not correctly labelled, resulting in a marriage of wrong sized parts. Patterns not facing in correct direction on napped fabrics. Not all patterns facing in same direction (either way) on a oneway fabric. Patterns not aligned with respect to the fabric grain. Poor line definition (e.g. too thick chalk; indistinctly printed line, perforated lay not powdered) leading to inaccurate cutting. Skimpy marking, caused by either the marker did not use the outside edge of the pattern; or the pattern was moved or swung after partial marking to squeeze the pattern into a smaller space for economising the fabric. Marking back from miniature markers also can cause trouble unless the miniature marker making is in the hands of experienced operators. Alternatively the full size pattern may be having worn out edges. Generous marking, especially in combination with skimpy marking results in components being sewn together with puckering and pleating. When the marker is too wide, the garment parts at the edges



337 Word



Category



Short description



Description of the lay get cut with bits missing. Not enough knife clearance freedom. Wrong check matching, i.e. lines across the seam are not matching. Wrong check boxing, i.e. checks are not showing a full or partial box across the seam. Notches and drill marks omitted, indistinct or misplaced. Spreading defects in garment: Not enough plies to cover quantity of garments required. Plies misaligned, resulting in garment parts getting cut with bits missing in some plies at the edge of the spread. Narrow fabric, causes garment parts at the edge of the lay getting cut with bits missing. Incorrect tension of plies, i.e. fabric spread too tight or too loose. This will result in parts not fitting in sewing, and finished garments not meeting size tolerances. Not all plies facing in correct direction (whether ‘one way’ as with nap, or ‘one way either way’ as with some check designs). This happens when fabric is not spread face down, face up, or face to face as required. Unacceptable damages in the garment parts. Parts not fully included owing to splicing errors. Spread distorted by the attraction or repulsion of plies caused by excessive static electricity. Plies are not spread accurately one above another for cutting. This results in mismatching checks. Cutting defects in garment:



338 Word



Category



Short description



Description Inaccurate cutting. Failure to follow the marker lines resulting in distorted garment parts. Top and bot-tom plies can be a different size if the straight knife is allowed to lean, or if a round knife is used on too high a spread. Notches, which are misplaced, too deep, too shallow, angled, omitted, or wrong type to suit fabric. Drill marks, which are misplaced, wrong drill to suit fabric, omitted, not perpendicular through the spread. Frayed edges, scorched or fused edges, caused by a faulty knife, not sharp enough, or rotating at too high a speed. Knife cut. Garment part damaged by careless use of knife, perhaps overrunning cutting previous piece. Marker incorrectly positioned on top of spread. Garment parts have bits missing at edge of lay. If too tight or too loose then garment parts are distorted. Slits opened inaccurately or omitted. Sewing preparation defects in garment: Mixed plies resulting in shaded garment parts, when assembled. Mixed size parts. Parts missing. Work tickets, coupon payment tickets or progress tickets omitted, misplaced or mixed. Shade marking by pencil or machine too dark, too light, showing through, illegible or wrong side of fab-ric. Ink stains. Adhesive shade marking tickets falling off or sticking too hard,



339 Word



Category



Short description



Description omitted, misplaced, wrongly numbered. Sewn on shade marking tickets falling off, damaging fabric, omitted, misplaced, wrongly numbered. Wrong size, wrong shade, wrong type of trimmings put in bundle. Bundles or boxes not stacked in numerical order (where this is significant). Parts not stacked in correct order in box, or rolled in correct order in bundle; or rolled or folded too tightly causing creases. Sewing defects in garment: Holes, picked threads, ruptured thread on the fabric, caused by wrong size or type of needle, blunt needle, needle heat or machine feeding difficulty. Feed damage, particularly on thicker or sheer fabrics, or when machine cover transverse seams, arising from incorrect type of teeth, excessive pressure by foot, improper alignment of feed and foot, damaged throat plate, excessive machine speed. Skipped stitches from the hook irregularly failing to pick up the loop of thread from the needle’s eye ow-ing to a number of reasons. Thread breaks, arising from too thick a thread for the needle, too thin a thread, needle heat, operator working unrythmically, too tight tensions and so on. Broken stitches, arising from wrong stitch type, too tight tensions, a badly formed join in the seam where the second line of stitch runs over the first and cracks it, sharp feeds, too great a pressure and so on.



340 Word



Category



Short description



Description Seam grin, arising from too loose a tension or too large a stitch, or use of wrong stitch type. Seam pucker, because of incorrect handling by the operator, misaligned notches, tight thread tensions and so on. Pleated seams, an excessive form of seam puckering, or where operator failed to ease in fullness evenly. Wrong stitch density; too many gives rise to jamming and rupture of fabric threads; too few to grinning or weak seams. Uneven stitch density. Operator causes machine to snatch and does not allow machine to control fabric. Staggered stitch, from faulty feed motion, incorrect needle and other machine parts. Improperly formed stitches, caused by bad tension, incorrectly adjusted timing, illfitting machine com-ponents. Oil spots or stains. Seaming defects in garment: Usually caused by errors arising from the interaction of operator and machine in the handling of the garment. Incorrect or uneven width of inlay, arising from bad handling by operator, incorrectly set guide, incor-rectly adjusted folder. In extreme cases the burst open raw edges show, slippage of weave threads occurs, or notches are exposed. Irregular or incorrect shape of sewing line, (sometimes called ‘run offs’) in top stitching, arising from lack of or badly set guide, not following a mark, or incorrect handling. Insecure back stitching, because subsequent rows do



341 Word



Category



Short description



Description not cover the first row of stitching. Twisted seam leading to irregular puckering or the garment parts not hanging correctly when worn; caused by improper alignment of fabric parts, mismatched notches, and allowing one ply to creep against another. Mismatched checks or stripes. Mismatched seam, where transverse seams do not match (e.g. inside leg seams at the fork of trousers). Extraneous part caught in seam; an unrelated piece showing through the seam. Reversed garment part, where part is sewn with face side opposite from specification; perhaps when the part cut for one side of a garment is sewn in the other, or when the whole garment is assembled in-side out. Blind stitching showing on face side, or not securely caught on inside, arising from improperly adjusted bender. Wrong seam type or stitch type used. Wrong shade of thread used. Automatic machine and attachments defects in garment: Ragged or frayed edges, where knife attachments fail to cut efficiently. Uncut buttonholes, buttonholes not securely caught on fabric edge, wrong size, not securely fastened off. Untied stitches, where tying stitches on automatic machines fail to secure properly. Uneven widths of piping, arising from incorrect selection or adjustment of folders. Automatic thread trimmer failing



342 Word



Category



Short description



Description to cut. Housekeeping defects in garment: Scissors or knife cut. Tear. Picked or pulled thread. Hole, arising from faulty machine, faulty furniture, cigarette burn, etc. Stains, biro ink, stamp ink, oil, dirt, food, human, bird, animal, rust, water and so on. Thread ends not trimmed. Shade marking tickets not removed from inside a lined garment. Foreign bodies between lining and outer cloth, which can be felt or seen. Incorrect label sewn on, or sewn on in wrong place. Underpressing defects in garment: Seams not fully pressed open, narrow plaits showing along part of seam on the outside of the garment. Uneven edges or shapes (this may be an interaction between sewing and pressing. Piping rolled the wrong way on an edge. Permanent glaze, or a change in the shade or surface characteristics of the fabric. Scorches or burns. Creases incorrectly formed. Misplaced creases. Fullness not ‘pressed away’, ineffective moulding. Fusing defects in garment: Interlining not securely fused, owing to incorrect temperature or pressure, too short a time of fusing, or wrong choice of resin to suit fabric. What looks secure to the eye, or feels secure to the hand is not nec-essarily secure in wear, washing, or dry



343 Word



Category



Short description



Description cleaning. Strike through, where the resin is forced through the surface of the outer fabric. Strike back, where the resin is forced through the back of the interlining. Hard handle, arising from incorrect choice of resin backing cloth, or improperly adjusted fusing condi-tions of time, temperature and pressure. Final pressing defects in garment: Burned or scorched garments. Water spots. Gloss. Flattened nap or surface. Broken zips, buttons, etc. Creases not correctly formed. Fabric of finished garment not smooth, wrinkle free and showing its proper appearance. Edges wavy and stretched, or thick and cockled. Garments not thoroughly dried. Pockets not smooth. Lining shows pleats, creases, wrinkles, shine. Garment not correctly mouled either in detail or in total silhouette. Folding, packing and warehousing defects in garment: Garment not folded to specifications. Garment not folded with correct material, such as cardboard, tissue, polythene, etc. Pins or folds in garment incorrectly positioned. Garments not buttoned, zipped, or otherwise closed (or viceversa). Labels not showing where required. Garment not correctly positioned in box.



344 Word



Category



Short description



Description Too many garments in box or hanging wardrobe (during delivery). Hanging garments crushed and distorted in warehouse. Garment deteriorated in warehouse through obsolescence, owing to improper turnover of stock, attacks by water, mould or animal agencies; degradation by sunlight. In garment construction, a GARMENT SIZING garments, In garment method of designating garment SYSTEM made-ups, construction, a sizes. A selection of terms assemblies method of designating garment related to garment sizing are: Acromion: In anatomy, that part sizes. of the shoulder blade located at the end of the spine, which articulates with the collarbone. See also ‘shoulder joint’, below. Ankle: In anatomy, the joint between the foot and the lower leg. Ankle girth: In body measurements, the circumference of the leg over the greatest prominence of the an-kle. Arm length: In body measurements, with the arm bent at 90° and the clenched fist placed on the hip, the distance from the shoulder joint along the outside of the arm over the elbow to the greatest prominence on the outside of the wrist. Armhole: In garment construction, the area of a garment through which the arm passes or into which a sleeve is fitted. The armhole is not necessarily the same shape or location as the armscye. (Compare ‘Arm-scye’.) Armpit: In anatomy, the hollow under the junction of the arm and the shoulder.



345 Word



Category



Short description



Description Armscye: In garment construction, the opening in a garment for attachment of a fitted sleeve. Armscye is a tailor’s term for armhole. The opening follows a line passing over the shoulder joint, frontand back-break points and armpit area. (Compare’Armhole’.) Armscye circumference: In body measurements, the body measurement with the arm hanging down, the distance from the shoulder joint through the front-break point, the armpit, the back-break point and to the starting point. Back break-point: In anatomy, the location on the back of the body where the arm separates from the body. Back width: Also called ‘Cross back width’. In body measurements, the distance from back break point to back break point. Body dimensions: In garment construction, a body measurement which can be used to build a sizing sys-tem or to select an appropriately sized garment. See also ‘Sizing system’. Body measurements: In anthropometry, body measurements are standardised distance between two specified points on the human anatomy. Body measurements generally are based on standardised values from statistical studies of large populations. Bust: See ‘Bust girth’. Bust girth: Also called ‘’Bust’, ‘Full-bust girth’. In body measurements, the circumference of the body over



346 Word



Category



Short description



Description the fullest part of the breasts and parallel to the floor. (Compare ‘Chest girth’.) Bust point to bust point: In body measurements, the distance across the front from the apex of one breast to the apex of the other. Calf girth: In body measurements, the maximum circumference around the leg between the knee and an-kle, parallel to the floor. Centre back waist length: In body measurements, the vertical distance along the spine from the cervcale to the waist. Centre front waist length: In body measurements, the vertical distance from the neck baseline at the cen-tre front to the waist level. Cervicale to bust point: In body measurements, the distance from the cervicale around the base of the neck and down to the bust point. Cervicale to wrist: In body measurements, with the arm bent, the distance from the cervicale to the shoul-der joints, along the outside of the arm, over the elbow to the greater prominence on the outside of the wrist. Chest girth: Also called ‘Highbust girth’. In body measurements, the circumference of the body over the shoulder blades, under the arms and across the upper chest. (Compare ‘Bust girth’.) Cross-back width: See ‘Back width’. Cross-chest width: In body measurements, the distance from front break point to the back-point. Crotch: In anatomy, the body



347 Word



Category



Short description



Description area adjacent to the vertex of the included angle between the legs. Crotch height: See ‘Inside-leg length’. Crown: In anatomy, the top of the head. Elbow: In anatomy, the joint which articulates between the upper arm and the lower arm. Elbow girth: The body measurement with the arm straight, the circumference of the elbow. Front Breakpoint: In anatomy, the location on the front of the body where the arm separates from the body. Full Bust Girth: See ‘Bust girth’. Head girth: In body measurements, the maximum circumference of the head above the ears. Height: In body measurements, the vertical distance from the crown of standing subject to the soles of the feet. For persons unable to stand, height is measured while they are lying down. High-bust girth: See ‘Chest girth’, above. High-hip girth: In body measurements, the circumference of the body at a point approximately 7.5 cm below the waist and parallel to the floor. (Compare ‘Hip girth’.) Hip: In anatomy, the laterally projecting region formed by the lateral parts of the pelvis and the upper part of the femur together with the flesh covering them. Hip girth: In body measurements, the maximum circumference of the body at the level of maximum promi-nence of the buttocks.



348 Word



Category



Short description



Description Inside-leg length: Also called ‘Crotch height’. In body measurements, the vertical distance from the crotch to the soles of the feet. Knee: In anatomy, the joint between the lower and upper leg. Knee girth: In body measurements, with the leg straight, the circumference of the knee over the kneecap and parallel to the floor. Mid-neck girth: In body measurements, the circumference of the neck approximately 25 mm above the neck base. (Compare ‘Neck base girth’.) Mid-thigh girth: In body measurements, the circumference of the upper leg between the hip and the knee. Outside-leg length: In body measurements, the distance from the side waist to the soles of the feet, follow-ing the curve of the body. Scye depth: In body measurements, the distance from the cervicale to a point level with the armpit. Shoulder joint: In anatomy, the juncture of the collarbone and the shoulder blade. The outer end of the col-larbone or clavicle pivots against the acromion which in turn pivots against the humerus or upper arm bone in the arm. These bones form the shoulder girdle. See ‘Acromion’, above. Shoulder length: In body measurements, the distance from the side neck base to the armscye line at the shoulder joint. Shoulder slope: In body measurements, the angle



349 Word



Category



Short description



Description formed when the slant of the shoulder line deviates from the horizontal line that originates at the side neck base. Sizing system: In garment construction, a method of designating garment sizes. Thigh Girth: In body measurements, the maximum circumference of the upper leg close to the crotch. (Compare ‘Mid-thigh girth.) Total crotch length: In body measurements, the distance from the waist level at centre front through the crotch to the waist level at centre back. Total vertical trunk length: In body measurements, the distance from the right shoulder line midway be-tween the neck base and the shoulder joint, down the back through the crotch and over the projection of the right breast to the starting point. Underarm Length: In body measurements, the body measurement with the arm down, the distance from the armpit to the midpoint on the inside of the wrist in line with the greatest prominence. Upperarm girth: In body measurements, the maximum circumference of the arm usually midway between the elbow and the shoulder joint. Upperarm length: In body measurements, with the arm bent, the distance from the shoulder joint along the outside of the arm to the prominence of the elbow. Waist: In anatomy, the part of the body at the location between the lowest rib and hip identified by bending the body to the side.



350 Word



Category



GARMENT TWIST



defects



GARMENTLENGTH KNITTING MACHINE



apparatus, equipage, tools



GARNETT MACHINE



apparatus, equipage, tools



GARNETTING



processes, operations



GARTER BAND



garments, made-ups, assemblies accessories



GARTER WEBBING



Short description



Description Waist girth: In body measurements, the circumference of the waist immediately below the lowest rib. Wrist: In anatomy, the joint which articulates between the end of the lower arm and the hand. Wrist girth: In body measurements, the circumference over the prominence of the inner and outer forearm bones. A rotation, usually lateral, between different panels of a garment resulting from the release of latent stresses during laundering of the woven or knitted fabric forming the garment. Twist may also be referred to as Torque or Spirality.



A rotation, usually lateral, between different panels of a garment resulting from the release of latent stresses during laundering of the woven or knitted fabric forming the garment A knitting machine, A knitting machine, most often most often the the circular type, used for the circular type production of individual garment-panels in series, rather than for the continuous production of fabric. A type of carding A type of carding machine machine containing rollers and cylinders covered with saw-like metallic teeth, used for garnetting. See Garnetting. The breaking up of The breaking up of yarns and yarns and fabric (soft fabric (soft and hard wastes) to a fluffy, fibrous condition for and hard wastes) to reuse. a fluffy, fibrous condition for reuse. See After-welt. See After-welt.



An elastic narrow An elastic narrow fabric, fabric, sometimes sometimes multicoloured, multicoloured, characterised by selvedges that characterised by form a frill on relaxation. It may selvedges that form also be a medium-strength



351 Word



Category



Short description a frill on relaxation.



GARTER-STITCH



seams, stitches



Simple stitch done by hand or machine



GAS GAS FADING GAS FADING INHIBITOR GASSING GATHERING



processes, See Singeing. operations processes, See Atmospheric operations fading ³ Chemicals applied to dyed acetate fabrics to inhibit gas fading. processes, See Singeing operations seams, The shortening of stitches fabric length by drawing together and holding a succession of small folds of material by stitching.



GATING



processes, operations



GAUARDS



fabrics



Description elastic narrow fabric for supporting socks or stockings. Simple stitch done by hand or machine, used in plain weft knitting. See Singeing. See Atmospheric fading Chemicals applied to dyed acetate fabrics to inhibit gas fading. See Singeing



The shortening of fabric length by drawing together and holding a succession of small folds of material by stitching. Machine gathering or Gauging is achieved by the use of a special presser foot or attachment See Gait 1. IN WEAVING. See Gait. 2. IN KNITTING. Also called Gaiting. In knitting, the relative alignment of two sets of knitting ele-ments, e.g. needles, on knitting machines. Two forms of needle gaiting (rib and interlock), are common and may be interchangeable on the same machine. Types of gaiting are: (a) Interlock gaiting: The opposed alignment of one set of needles with the other on a knitting ma-chine. (b) Purl gaiting: The opposed alignment of tricks of two needle beds lying in the same plane, on a machine equipped with double-headed needles. (c) Rib gaiting: The alternate alignment of one set of needles with the other on a machine equipped with two sets of needles arranged to knit rib fabrics See under Checks See under Checks



352 Word CHECK GAUFRÉ



GAUGE



Category processes, operations



general, apparatus, equipage, tools



Short description



Description



An effect produced An effect produced on the on the surface of surface of fabric, by pressing in fabric, by pressing in hot calenders. These produce hot calenders. designs in relief on the fabric, e.g. honeycomb-like, waffle-like, crimp-like, etc. Sometimes called Sometimes called Gage. A Gage. A standard standard measure of distance measure of distance or dimension. or dimension. 1. IN KNITTING: Also called Cut. (a) A measure of fineness expressing the number of needles per unit of width (across the wales). The linear spacing of needles in the bed or bar of a knitting machine. Expressed as needles per inch, needles per 1.5 inch, or as a number of millimetres per 10 tricks (needle spaces). Imperial measure is commonly used worldwide. (b) A term specifying a dimension, usually thickness, of the needles or other loopforming elements of a knitting machine. 2. IN MULTI-POSITION MACHINES. Also called Pitch. The distance measured horizontally between spindles, drive drum centres, or adjacent yarns in a multi-position machine. 3. IN LACE MACHINES. (a) A term specifying the comb spacing. (b) A term traditionally specifying the number of needles per inch on warp lace machines. 4. In linking. A term specifying the spacing of points (gauge) in linking and point seaming machines and expressed as the number of elements per unit of length.



353 Word



GAUGE, STITCH



Category



seams, stitches GAUGING seams, stitches GAUNTLET CUFF garments, made-ups, assemblies GAUZ SYLPHIDE fabrics



Short description



See Stitch gauge. See under Gathering. See under Cuff.



Description 5. GAUGE IN TUFTED PILE YARN FLOOR COVERING: The average distance between adjacent binding sites in the widthwise direction. 6. GAUGE IN TUFTING MACHINE: The average centerline distance between the needles. 7. IN SEWING. The distance between needles on a sewing machine. 8. GAUGE AS INSTRUMENT: An instrument for measuring the thickness of woven fabric See Stitch gauge. See under Gathering. See under Cuff.



A fabric made by A fabric made by alternating alternating strips of strips of gauze and satin gauze and satin brocade ribbon, used mainly for brocade ribbon, women’s clothing. Sheer, loosely woven, plainGAUZE fabrics Sheer, loosely woven, plain-weave weave fabric, made from cotton, silk, viscose, acetate. May be fabric, made from soft and unfinished in cotton, silk, viscose, appearance or it may be sized acetate. to add stiffness. Often used as a mounting fabric. Some open lacy gauze is made for curtains and drapes. A method of producing the GAUZE WEAVING processes, A method of simpler types of lightweight operations producing the fabric by leno weave. The term simpler types of is commonly used as a lightweight fabric by synonym for leno weave. leno weave. Abbreviation for ‘Galvano, GDD general Abbreviation for directly designed’ screen in ‘Galvano, directly designed’ screen in printing. The screen mesh and the pattern are ‘grown’ on a printing. mandrel at one and the same time. GEAR CRIMPING processes, See under Texturing. See under Texturing.



354 Word GEL DYEING



Category operations processes, operations



GELATIN FIBRE



fibers, filaments, yarns



GELATINISATION



processes, operations



GENAPPE YARN



GENERIC CLASS



fibers, filaments, yarns general



GENOA TWILL



fabrics



GENOA VELVET



fabrics



GENTLE WASH CYCLE



processes, operations



GEOGRID



apparatus, equipage, tools



GEOMEMBRANE



apparatus, equipage, tools



Short description



Description



A continuous tow dyeing method in which soluble dyes are applied to wetspun fibres (e.g. acrylic for modacrylic fibres) in the gel state, A remarkably shiny, man-made fibre.



A continuous tow dyeing method in which soluble dyes are applied to wet-spun fibres (e.g. acrylic for modacrylic fibres) in the gel state, i.e. after extrusion and coagulation, but before drawing and drying.



The conversion of granular size to a viscous adhesive liquid. A gassed worsted yarn. See also Gassing. A grouping having similar chemical compositions or specific chemical characteristics. A three harness twill fabric. Elaborate velvet of satin ground fabric with a multicoloured pile. Also called Delicate wash cycle



A remarkably shiny, man-made fibre. It used to be spun from a solution of gelatin and then treated with formaldehyde, making it insoluble in water. Used to develop gelatin silk, ultimately known as rayon. The fibre, however, never attained commercial significance. The conversion of granular size to a viscous adhesive liquid.



A gassed worsted yarn. See also Gassing. A grouping having similar chemical compositions or specific chemical characteristics. A three harness twill fabric. Elaborate velvet of satin ground fabric with a multicoloured pile. Pile is sometimes left uncut.



Also called Delicate wash cycle. A wash cycle in which agitation is slow and time is reduced. A network of A network of integrally integrally connected connected tensile elements tensile elements used to reinforce and stabilise civil engineering structures. A barrier of very low A barrier of very low permeability permeability, which may or may not incorporate textile reinforcement, used to control



355 Word



Category



Short description



GEORGETTE



fabrics



Filmy crêpe fabric, woven with very hard (highly) twisted ‘S’ and ‘Z’ yarns in both warp and weft and woven in a special crêpe weave.



GEOTEXTILES



fabrics



GERM RESISTANT



fabrics



GERMICIDAL AGENT GIG



³



Any permeable textile materials used for filtration, drainage, separation, reinforcement and stabilisation purposes as an integral part of civil engineering structures on earth, rock or other constructional materials. Fabrics treated with Fabrics treated with compounds to protect the wearer against compounds to fungi and germs. protect the wearer against fungi and germs. See Bacteriostat See Bacteriostat



GIGGING



apparatus, equipage, tools processes,



A finishing machine containing teasels and used for raising a nap on a fabric. A fabric finishing



Description flow of fluids. Filmy crêpe fabric, woven with very hard (highly) twisted ‘S’ and ‘Z’ yarns in both warp and weft and woven in a special crêpe weave. This combination gives a rather springy fabric, with strong crèpe effect and crisp handle. A difficult fabric to make up, but it drapes well. Plain or printed, and made from a variety of yarns including silk, wool, rayon, polyester, and nylon. Georgette does not crease readily and polyester georgette will hardly crease at all. Used for blouses, dresses (with lining), evening wear, over-dresses with opaque fabric beneath. It can be bonded to acetate locknit to improve the stability and make the fabric easier to use Any permeable textile materials used for filtration, drainage, separation, reinforcement and stabilisation purposes as an integral part of civil engineering structures on earth, rock or other constructional materials.



A finishing machine containing teasels and used for raising a nap on a fabric. A fabric finishing operation in



356 Word



Category operations



GILDING



processes, operations processes, operations accessories



GILLING GIMP



GIMP YARN



GIN



fibers, filaments, yarns



Short description Description operation in which which surface fibres are raised surface fibres are to produce a nap or cover on raised to produce a the cloth. It is performed on nap or cover on the cloth with teasels, which are the cloth. dried flower heads of a thistle plant, or with metallic substitute. The cloth is brought in to contact with teasels which cover the surface of a rotating cylinder. See Oxidised oil See Oxidised oil staining. staining. See Pin drafting See Pin drafting A core helically wrapped by one or more threads, resulting in a stiff cord.



A type of fancy yarn.



apparatus, A machine used for equipage, separating the cotton tools fibre from the seed.



GIN CUT COTTON



defects



Cotton that has been damaged in ginning



GINGHAM



fabrics



Plain weave fabric made with dyed yarns balanced in strength, in stripes and checks in a wide



1. A core helically wrapped by one or more threads, resulting in a stiff cord. 2. An upholstery trimming usually made wholly or partly from gimp as defined above. 3. A special thread used to support and raise the buttonhole stitching. Also used for embroidery A type of fancy yarn. A compound yarn comprising a twisted core with an effect yarn wrapped around it so as to produce wavy projections on its surface. Generally speaking, gimp yarns display fairly regular semi-circular projections and loop yarns have well-formed circular loops. A machine used for separating the cotton fibre from the seed. The fibres are drawn through openings which are too small for seed to pass through Cotton that has been damaged in ginning to the extent that its value is reduced. Plain weave fabric made with dyed yarns balanced in strength, in stripes and checks in a wide variety of types and qualities. White is always used



357 Word



Category



GINNED LINT



fibers, filaments, yarns



GINNING



GIVE-WAY



Short description variety of types and qualities.



Cotton fibres that have been separated from their seeds by ginning processes, The mechanical operations process by which cotton fibres are separated from their seeds



GIVRENE



apparatus, equipage, tools fabrics



GLACÉ BINDING GLACÉ EFFECT



fabrics fabrics



GLACÉ LEATHER



fabrics



GLASS FIBRE



fibers, filaments, yarns



Description with a colour. Usually cotton or polyester/cotton. It is a crisp and firm fabric, very hardwearing. Has excellent washing properties because very fast dyes are normally employed. Used for blouses, shirts, dresses, children’s clothes, table clothes, napkins, and curtains. Very lightweight gingham type fabrics are known as Zephyrs. Cotton fibres that have been separated from their seeds by ginning but not subjected to any further processing after ginning. The mechanical process by which cotton fibres are separated from their seeds, quickly and efficiently to make the fibres available for textile use. A weak link inserted in a mechanism for safety reasons.



A weak link inserted in a mechanism for safety reasons. Silk, acetate or polyester fabric Silk, acetate or polyester fabric very very similar in appearance to Grosgrain. Made from a fairly similar in loosely folded cotton weft and appearance to twist variations give a shimmer Grosgrain. effect to the fabric because the ribs are not uniformly round and even. See Grosgrain. See under Binding See under Binding See Changeable See Changeable effect. effect. Goatskin; soft and Goatskin; soft and glossy. Used glossy. mainly for shoes. A manufactured fibre A manufactured fibre in which in which the fibrethe fibre-forming substance is forming substance is glass. glass. Extremely fine filaments are spun from ordinary glass in its molten state. The extreme fineness of the filament gives the material necessary flexibility for making it into yarns and



358 Word



Category



Short description



GLASS MINERAL WOOL



fibers, filaments, yarns fibers, filaments, yarns



See Glass wool..



GLASS WOOL



A variety of glass fibre.



GLASS-CLOTH



fabrics



Plain-weave fabric made from twisted linen yarns, often woven in stripes or checks, but sometimes printed.



GLASS-RUBBER TRANSITION TEMPERATURE (Tg)



general



Temperature zone over which there is a reversible physical change



GLAUBER’S SALT



³



GLAZE



fabrics



A dyeing assistant composed of hydrated sodium sulphate The finish such as



Description fabrics. Glass fibres are very strong, however, it has practically no stretch. Fabrics lack resistance to abrasion and flexing; the filaments break and the fabric becomes fibrous as the broken filament-ends stick out. Hence, glass is unsuitable for clothing, but its complete non-flammability, chemical resistance, ease of washing because of its complete lack of absorbency, and as they do not deteriorate with age have made it useful for curtain fabrics. Glass melts only at extremly high temperatures. See Glass wool.



Also called ‘glass mineral wool’. A variety of glass fibre. It is incombustible. Principally used in heat and cold insulations and acoustical applications. Plain-weave fabric made from twisted linen yarns, often woven in stripes or checks, but sometimes printed. The medium weight fabric is made without any surface fuzz and is very durable. Used to make tea towels for drying glass and china. Cotton glass cloth is cheaper, but is not quite so effective for drying up as it becomes damp sooner, and does not wear as long as linen. Temperature zone over which there is a reversible physical change from a viscous or rubbery state to a brittle glassy state. A dyeing assistant composed of hydrated sodium sulphate



The finish such as shine, lustre,



359 Word



Category



Short description Description shine, lustre, polish, polish, etc., evident on some etc., evident on fabrics. Process utilises friction some fabrics calendering, and ingredients used depend on type of fabric. On cotton it is usually produced by pressure rolls. A durable glaze finish will withstand several washings. Also stabilises the weave. GLAZED CHINTZ fabrics Chintz fabric, which Chintz fabric, which has been has been given a given a resin finish, which is resin finish more permanent and will not wash out. See also Chintz A thread which has been GLAZED THREAD fibers, A thread which has treated for lustre and filaments, been treated for smoothness with a sizing yarns lustre and applied in the finishing process. smoothness Imparting a smooth, glossy, GLAZING processes, Imparting a smooth, operations glossy, plane surface plane surface to a fabric, by to a fabric, by using using heat, heavy pressure, or friction. Cotton fabrics such as heat, heavy chintz or tarlatan may be pressure, or friction. treated with chemicals and run through hot friction rollers to give them a smooth high polish. Durable finish can be produced by proper selection of chemicals and procedures. GLEN URQUHART fabrics See under Checks. See under Checks. CHECK GLEN URQUHART fabrics Name comes from a Name comes from a Scottish clan. This fabric is also PLAID Scottish clan. This sometimes called Overplaid, fabric is also because the blocks of check sometimes called weave are arranged at right Overplaid, because angles, and then there is a the blocks of check weave are arranged larger outline check effect over this, often in another colour. at right angles, and then there is a larger May be wool or worsted and is outline check effect made in various weights, from light suiting to overcoating. An over this, often in ornate plaid, used for golfing another colour. clothes, cloaks, men’s sporting hats and overcoats. See also Glen urquhart check under Checks GLENCARRY fabrics, An English tweed 1. FABRIC. An English tweed garments, cloth made from cloth made from woollen yarns



360 Word



GLENSHEE



GLENSHEE CRASH



GLIDING GLISSADE



GLORIA



GLORIA SUEDE



GLOSS GLOVE



GLOVE SILK



Category made-ups, assemblies



Short description Description woollen yarns of the of the hit or miss type and hit or miss type contains some so-called waste stock and low quality fibres. 2. GARMENT. The term is also used to describe a capeovercoat and sometimes a Scotch cap fabrics Plain-weave fabric Plain-weave fabric made from mercerised cotton or linen, in a made from wide variety of weights and mercerised cotton or used for all types of embroidery. linen, in a wide variety of weights and used for all types of embroidery. Rough, uneven plain-weave fabrics Rough, uneven fabric of equal quantities of plain-weave fabric of cotton and linen fibre. Used equal quantities of mainly for curtains and loose cotton and linen covers and as a base for fibre. embroidery. processes, See under Oxidised See under Oxidised oil staining operations oil staining fabrics Closely woven satinClosely woven satin-weave weave cotton fabric cotton fabric that is polished in that is polished in finishing. Is made in plain finishing. colours, an uninteresting fabric used only where cotton lining is needed. fabrics Strong, firm, plain Strong, firm, plain weave cotton, weave cotton, silk or silk or nylon fabric. Is very nylon fabric. closely woven and very lightweight, in plain, twill or satin weave. Used for covering umbrellas as when stretched taut, it is water repellent. fabrics Firm heavy suede Firm heavy suede fabric for fabric for jackets and jackets and coats. coats. general See Specular gloss. See Specular gloss. A covering for the hand, often garments, A covering for the extending part way up the arm. made-ups, hand, often See also Dress glove. assemblies extending part way up the arm. See also Dress glove. fabrics Fine warp-knit silk Fine warp-knit silk made in made in basic basic colours and used mainly colours and used for glove lining, although it was



361 Word



Category



GLOW



general



GLOWING COMBUSTION



processes, operations



GLUED SEAM



seams, stitches



GO-THROUGH MACHINE



apparatus, equipage, tools garments, made-ups, assemblies



GODET



GOFFER



GOLD THREAD



Short description Description mainly for glove once also used for lingerie lining Visible flameless Visible flameless combustion of the solid phase of a material. combustion of the See Afterglow and solid phase of a Smouldering. material. Combustion of a material in the Combustion of a material in the solid solid phase without flame but phase without flame with emission of light from the combustion zone but with emission of light from the combustion zone A seam formed A seam formed seam by an seam by an adhesive. adhesive. See under Lace See under Lace machines. machines.



A triangular insert of material used in dressmaking and glove making. processes, A process by which operations fabrics are given a fluted, crimped, tucked, or raisedrelief appearance by means of heat and pressure. fibers, A core yarn formed filaments, by twisting or yarns spiralling thin filaments of gold on a central yarn of silk, cotton, man-made fibres, etc.



GOLD TISSUE



fabrics



GOOD COLOUR



fibers,



Very soft and luxurious, transparent metal cloth consisting of metal warp in gold colour and silk or synthetic weft An intermediate



A triangular insert of material used in dressmaking and glove making. A process by which fabrics are given a fluted, crimped, tucked, or raised-relief appearance by means of heat and pressure. Used on yarn or fabric.



A core yarn formed by twisting or spiralling thin filaments of gold on a central yarn of silk, cotton, man-made fibres, etc. ‘Pure gold’ thread consists of a fine silver wire covered with a gold film and ‘Lyons gold thread’ is copper wire covered with a gold film. Originally gold thread was gold wire. Very soft and luxurious, transparent metal cloth consisting of metal warp in gold colour and silk or synthetic weft. Used mainly for evening dresses, saris, etc. An intermediate shade of



362 Word COTTON



Category filaments, yarns



Short description shade of cotton, between white and creamy



GOODS RATIO



processes, operations garments, made-ups, assemblies



See Liquor: goods ratio. A wedge-shaped piece of cloth inserted into a garment A skirt with a panel inserted



GORE



GORED SKIRT



GORGE



GORGE SEAM GOSSAMER GOSSYPIUM



GOUT



GRAB TEST



GRADE



Description cotton, between white and creamy. If too creamy, the term ‘buttery’ used; if too white, the term ‘blue cotton’ applies. See Liquor: goods ratio. A wedge-shaped piece of cloth inserted into a garment to obtain width at a specific place.



garments, A skirt with a panel inserted made-ups, assemblies garments, The neck run of the The neck run of the forepart to made-ups, forepart to which the which the collar is joined. assemblies collar is joined. seams, The seam joining the The seam joining the forepart to stitches forepart to the collar. the collar. fabrics Very soft fine silk Very soft fine silk gauze used gauze used for veils. for veils. fibers, The generic name of The generic name of the cotton filaments, the cotton plant. plant. yarns defects Fabric defect Fabric defect. Foreign matter woven into a fabric by accident, usually lint or waste, caused by fly and waste dropping into the loom during weaving, or being caught in yarns during spinning. See also Slug A method of determining the general A method of tensile strength of a fabric. determining the tensile strength of a fabric. 1. IN WARP KNITTING, a term general IN WARP used to indicate the defect KNITTING, a term index evaluation of fabric used to indicate the determined by the number of defect index defects per unit, for example evaluation of fabric per pound, per linear yard, or determined by the per square yard. number of defects 2. IN WOOL AND MOHAIR, a per unit numerical designation used in classifying wool and mohair in their raw, semi-processed, and processed forms based on average fibre diameter and



363 Word



Category



Short description



GRADING



processes, operations



In textile testing, the symbol for any step of a multistep standard reference scale for a quality characteristic.



GRADUATED CHECKS



fabrics



GRAIN



fabrics



Description variation of fibre diame-ter. In textile testing, the symbol for any step of a multistep standard reference scale for a quality characteristic. The grade is assigned to test specimens exhibiting a degree of the quality comparable to that step of the standard. Numerical grades assigned to different specimens from a sample or by different observers are commonly averaged. Terminology for grading process: Five grades, usually with intermediate decimal half grades are provided for most subjectively graded characteristics ranging from Grade 5, High, to Grade 1, Low. A grade lower than 1 is seldom of interest, but it may be designated Grade 0 A pattern for checked in which the component stripes are graduated in size from small to large.



A pattern for checked in which the component stripes are graduated in size from small to large. Grain of the fabric is the Grain of the fabric is relationship of its structural the relationship of its elements to vertical and structural elements horizontal lines. Grain is easily to vertical and appreciated and illustrated by horizontal lines. the example of a woven fabric where in ideal conditions warp direction represents the vertical line and weft direction represents the horizontal. Warp and weft interlace at 90° so that in a correctly made and finished woven fabric grain and structure are square with each other. Deliberate off grain cutting is sometimes essential particularly in woven fabrics in order to obtain necessary fabric ‘movement’ for shaping or styling. Conversely, the taping



364 Word



Category



Short description



Description or otherwise stabilising of certain garment seams is necessary to prevent movement or stretching. This is often necessary where perhaps a woven fabric has been ‘cut on the bias’ to obtain movement or shape in one part but another part may need to be kept fairly rigid, or in a straight seam in a knitted fabric where the natural movement of the fabric is too great for the necessary rigidity of the garment. GRAIN LEATHER fabrics Term for all leather Term for all leather that has had that has had a finish a finish applied to the right side. applied to the right Most leather skins available for sewing are referred to as grain side. leathers GRAIN OF accessories See under See under Coronation gimp. WHEAT EFFECT Coronation gimp. GRAINY WEAVE fabrics A class of irregular, A class of irregular, broken broken weaves, e.g. weaves, e.g. Granite, Oatmeal. Granite, Oatmeal. This effect is used at times in fabrics of man-made fibres where warp and weft have different dyeing characteristics. GRANADA fabrics Old term meaning Old term meaning ‘grained’; a ‘grained’; a fine fine worsted fabric with a face worsted fabric with a finish on the right side. Weave face finish on the has a broken appearance and right side. normally in black. Used for women’s coats, men’s lightweight overcoats. GRANDRELLE fabrics A term used for a A term used for a waterproof FABRIC waterproof fabric fabric made by sealing together with a rubber solution two cotton fab-rics of the same but different designs. GRANDRELLE fibers, A two-ply yarn A two-ply yarn composed of YARN filaments, composed of singles singles of different colour or yarns of different colour or contrasting lustre. contrasting lustre. GRANITE fabrics A weave having a A weave having a satin base or satin base other regular plan with adjoining ends lifted in regular order to give small broken effects.



365 Word



Category



Short description



Description They are largely used as ground weaves for jacquard designs GRANNIE CLOTH fabrics See Mummy cloth. See Mummy cloth. GRASS processes, The bleaching of The bleaching of cotton or linen BLEACHING operations cotton or linen by spreading it on the grass and exposing it to light and air. This is a slower process than chemical bleaching. See Bleaching. GRASS CLOTH fabrics A broad A broad classification for classification for lustrous, plain weave fabrics lustrous, plain weave made of ramie, flax, hemp, fabrics made of nettle fibre, etc. It generally is ramie, flax, hemp, loosely woven on handlooms. nettle fibre, etc. Used for sportswear, blouses, luncheon sets, tablecloths, etc. GRASS LINEN fabrics See China-grass See China-grass GRASSING processes, See Crofting. See Crofting. operations GRAVER apparatus, See Burin. See Burin. equipage, tools GRAVURE processes, See Roller printing See Roller printing and Intanglio PRINTING operations and Intanglio GRAY GOODS fabrics See preferred term, See preferred term, Greige Greige goods. goods. GRDUATED fabrics A pattern for A pattern for checked in which CHECKS checked in which the the component stripes are component stripes graduated in size from small to are graduated in size large. from small to large. GREASE DYEING processes, A process in dyeing A process in dyeing serges and cotton warp woollen cloths operations serges and cotton without scouring them first. warp woollen cloths . without scouring them first. . GREASE WOOL fibers, Wool, taken from the Wool, taken from the living filaments, living sheep sheep and which has not been yarns commercially scoured. GRECIAN fabrics A figured quilting A figured quilting fabric in which ALHAMBRA fabric Grecian weaves are largely used GRECIAN WEAVE fabrics A weave based on A weave based on the counterthe counter-change change principle and having



366 Word



Category



Short description principle



GREEN COTTON



fibers, filaments, yarns



GREEN FLAX



fibers, filaments, yarns



Immature cotton which is unusually damp, because it has been picked before the boll is ripe. Also called Natural flax.



Description floats of warp and weft that produce either a rough surface or a cellular effect on both sides of the fabric. Modifications of the basic Grecian weave are also made, in some of which the warp and weft floats appear on the face side of the fabric only. Immature cotton which is unusually damp, because it has been picked before the boll is ripe.



Also called Natural flax. Scutched flax produced from deseeded straw without any intermediate treatment such as retting. GREEN LINEN fabrics A linen cloth woven A linen cloth woven of of unbleached, or unbleached, or green, yarn. green, yarn. GREIGE GOODS fabrics Textile fabrics, as Also called Grey goods. Textile they leave the loom fabrics, as they leave the loom or knitting-machine. or knitting-machine. Fabrics that have received no bleaching, Fabrics that have dyeing or finishing treatment received no bleaching, dyeing or finishing treatment GREIGE STATE fibers, Unfinished, natural Unfinished, natural fibre, yarn or filaments, fibre, yarn or fabric fabric. Most commonly used in yarns, fabrics conjunction with cotton. GREIGE THREAD fibers, Undyed or Undyed or unfinished thread, filaments, unfinished thread, usually sewing thread, in the yarns usually sewing state following final plying or thread, equivalent step in processing sequence, such as extruding, or braiding The number of finished square GREIGE YIELD fabrics The number of yards per pound (square metres finished square per kilogram) of greige fabric. yards per pound (square metres per kilogram) of greige fabric. GRENADINE fabrics, a loosely woven 1. Description was once used to fibers, gauze-type fabric. describe an outer garment,



367 Word



Category filaments, yarns



Short description



GRENFELL CLOTH



fabrics



GREX



fibers, filaments, yarns



GREY COTTON



fibers, filaments, yarns fibers, filaments, yarns



Closely woven reversible twill, mainly used for raincoats, because the close twill weave causes it to be water-repellent. An obsolete, direct numbering system for expressing linear density, equal to the mass in grams per 10,000 m of yarn, fibre, filament or other textile strand. See under Stained cotton.



GREY FELT



GREY GOODS



fabrics



A blend of white fibres with naturally coloured or dyed fibres See preferred term,



Description such as a cloak, but it now refers to a loosely woven gauze-type fabric. May be cotton, polyester, nylon or mixtures, including acrylic fi-bre. May also occasionally be produced as a filmy dress or blouse fabric. A springy net-like fabric. 2. Term applies also to a yarn composed of more than one strand, with the twist in the plied yarn in the opposite direction from the twist in the individual components. Fibre may be silk, cotton or syn-thetic. The yarn is woven into a variety of fabrics of varying weights, including voile, organdie and satin. Closely woven reversible twill. The word Grenadine was once used to describe a hard-wearing close silk fabric with a dull surface created by the highly twisted yarns. Closely woven reversible twill, mainly used for raincoats, because the close twill weave causes it to be water-repellent. The fibres used may be worsted or polyester or blends. Similar to Gaberdine in appearance. An obsolete, direct numbering system for expressing linear density, equal to the mass in grams per 10,000 m of yarn, fibre, filament or other textile strand. See also Linear density.



See under Stained cotton.



A blend of white fibres with naturally coloured or dyed fibres, or both, that has an overall grey appearance See preferred term, Greige



368 Word



Category



GREY SCALE



general



GREY SOURING



GREY WIDTH



Short description Greige goods. A scale consisting of pairs of standard grey chips



processes, A step in the process operations of bleaching of cotton. fabrics The width of the fabric as it comes from the loom



GREYING



processes, operations



Term used describe the dingy appearance of a fabric that occurs in dry cleaning.



GRIFFE



apparatus, equipage, tools



In jacquard mechanism, the knife assembly



GRIN



seams, stitches



GRINDING, RAG



processes, operations seams, stitches



In sewn seams, to stress a sewn seam so that the individual stitches can be seen See Pulling, rag.



GRINNING



GRINNING THROUGH



defects



Description goods. A scale consisting of pairs of standard grey chips representing progressive differences in colour or contrast corresponding to numerical colourfastness grades. A step in the process of bleaching of cotton. The cotton is treated with a The width of the fabric as it comes from the loom, before it goes through any of the finishing operations. Term used describe the dingy appearance of a fabric that occurs in dry cleaning. This results from the uniform depositing of soluble or insoluble soils on the surface of all the fibres of the fabric. Poor solvent colour, i.e. a dirty solvent can cause greying. In jacquard mechanism, the knife assembly that operates to lift the hooks and harness in the process of forming a shed. In sewn seams, to stress a sewn seam so that the individual stitches can be seen See Pulling, rag.



The gap that forms, The gap that forms, when two components stitched together when two components stitched are pulled apart laterally. The gap will be larger when the together are pulled stitch is slacker, i.e. the run-in apart laterally. ratio of the threads is larger. A defect in a compound A defect in a compound structure, structure, e.g. a double cloth in e.g. a double cloth in which one fabric can be seen which one fabric can through the other, as a result of bad cover. The term can be be seen through the applied to compound woven other, as a result of and knitted structures including bad cover. pile fabrics



369 Word GRINNY CLOTH



Category fabrics



GRIPPER



apparatus, equipage, tools apparatus, equipage, tools accessories



GRIPPER LOOM



GRIPPER TAPE



GRIPPERSHUTTLE



GRIST



GROS



GROS DE LONDRES



GROSGRAIN



Short description Also called Hungry cloth.



Description Also called Hungry cloth. A cloth with an unsatisfactory cover. It is sometimes said to be ‘grinning’. See Gripper-shuttle. See Gripper-shuttle.



A loom, which uses A loom, which uses one or more one or more grippers. See also Projectile grippers. loom Also called Gripper Also called Gripper web. A web narrow fabric, woven or knitted, having one or more raised stripes in the warp direction, formed of a high-friction material. If is used on the inside of waistbands for skirts and trousers to keep a blouse or shirt in place. apparatus, A device, which grips A device, which grips one end of a weft yarn and tows it equipage, one end of a weft through the warp shed. See tools yarn and tows it also Projectile. through the warp shed. fibers, See Count of yarn See Count of yarn filaments, yarns fabrics A term used to A term used to describe thick describe thick heavy heavy fabrics. Often applied to fabrics. a variety of cross-ribbed fabrics. Cross-ribbed fabric with fabrics Cross-ribbed fabric alternating heavy and fine ribs, with alternating or ribs of different colours. heavy and fine ribs, or ribs of different Made in plain weave and plainweave variations. A glossy colours. finish is applied and it is fairly stiff to handle. The fibres used are viscose, acetate, and triacetate, polyester or silk. Used for millinery and also for evening dresses fabrics Plain weave fine Plain weave fine fabric with fabric with prominent prominent rounded ribs. The rounded ribs. ribs are produced by weaving a plain weave with a very closely set warp of fine yarns and a more open-set weft in a thicker



370 Word



Category



GROUND



fabrics



GROUND THREAD



fibers, filaments, yarns



GROUND WARP



fabrics



Short description



Description yarn. This is an exaggeration of the rib principle as illustrated under Poplin. Cords are heavier than those in Poplin, and rounder than those in Faille, and it is a fairly stiff fabric, made only in plain colours. Grosgrain is originally a silk fabric and very expensive because it is a rather heavy fabric. Cheaper types are made using filament rayon or acetate for the warp and a thick cotton or staple rayon weft. The weft is entirely hidden by the close-set warp and lies straight. Grosgrain is used for evening coats and for dresses and for facings. Now made also in silk, worsted, cotton, or viscose, acetate, nylon. Used for formal clothes, such as ceremonial gowns and church vestments, but also (in synthetic fi-bres) for ribbons. Grosgrain fabrics are hardwearing due to the weave, but clothes made from it rarely receive hard wear. See also Givrene The basic part of the The basic part of the fabric fabric surrounding surrounding the figures or the figures or designs. In a pile fabric, it designs. consists of the warp and the weft yarns, which support the pile. In lace, the basic structure of net, known as foundation net, by which, the objects are joined. The single or ply The single or ply core yarn, core yarn, which which serves as the center serves as the center (core) around which novelty or (core) around which fancy yarns are twisted novelty or fancy yarns are twisted A warp, which forms A warp, which forms the body of the body of the cloth the cloth in pile fabrics, by in pile fabrics, by interlacing with the weft. interlacing with the weft.



371 Word GROUNDNUT PROTEIN FIBRE



Category fibers, filaments, yarns



Short description Fibre made from groundnut.



GROUP FLOAT



defects



Weaving defect.



GROWN-ON



GROWN-ON WAISTBAND GROWTH



GUANACO



garments, The formation of a made-ups, facing by folding assemblies back the fabric edge. garments, See under made-ups, Waistband. assemblies general The dimensional change resulting in an increase in the length or width of a specimen. fibers, Hair from a small, filaments, wild deer-like animal, yarns with big brown eyes, from the llama group of animals found in the Andes.



GUARD’S CHECK GUIDE HAIRS



fabrics fibers, filaments, yarns



GUIPURE LACE EMBROIDERY



fabrics



Description Fibre made from groundnut. They have soft, wool-like handle, except that they do not have the scaly surface of wool fibres. Used as a diluent fibre, which provide wool-like characteristics at low cost. Weaving defect. Failure of several warps or wefts to interlace. Therefore these yarns float over then The formation of a facing by folding back the fabric edge. See under Waistband.



The dimensional change resulting in an increase in the length or width of a specimen.



Hair from a small, wild deer-like animal, with big brown eyes, from the llama group of animals found in the Andes. The hair of fifteen day old animals was once used for spinning, but the Guanaco is now a protected species. See under Checks See under Checks Fibres, which project Fibres, which project beyond the under-coat of some beyond the undermammals. They are usually coat of some coarser than under-coat fibres mammals. Although now entirely made by It is an openwork lace composed of machine, this was once a handmade Italian type of lace. It is thick, heavy an openwork lace composed of embroidered thick, heavy embroidered patterns, often with patterns, often with quite large quite large motifs motifs. Ground fabric is made from nylon acetate or sometimes cotton; the thick embroidery is worked onto the ground fabric and then the ground fabric is removed by



372 Word



Category



Short description



GUM



fibers, filaments, yarns ³



See Sericin.



GUM ARABIC



GUM WASTE



fibers, filaments, yarns



GUNCLUB CHECK



fabrics



GUNNY GUT THREAD



GYPSUM



fabrics fibers, filaments, yarns ³



GYPSY CLOTH



fabrics



Description chemical dissolving or other means that will not affect the embroidery See Sericin.



A colloidal substance A colloidal substance obtained obtained from from several species of Acacia several species of plant. It is used as a size, Acacia plant adhesive and thickener in finishing operations and textile printing Waste comprising all Waste comprising all broken silk broken silk threads threads that have been discarded during reeling, or at the inspection of skeins, and that have not undergone any further processing Distinctive, sporty- Distinctive, sporty-looking check looking check wool wool fabric. Checks are usually fabric. woven in greens, browns and sometimes blue, sometimes with an overcheck, i.e. a large check over a smaller one. Used mainly for natty sportswear. See also Checks. See Bagging fabric. See Bagging fabric. See Stuffer yarn See Stuffer yarn



A chemical used to A chemical used to size cotton size cotton goods; it goods; it is hydrous sulphate of calcium is hydrous sulphate of calcium See Flannelette. See Flannelette.



H Word HABIT



Category fabrics, garments, made-ups, assemblies



Short description Description Good quality woollen, 1. FABRIC. Good quality medium-weight suiting woollen, medium-weight suiting material with a material with a dress dress face finish. Usually face finish. in dark colours and used for suits and winter-



373 Word



Category



HABUTAI



fabrics



HACKLING



processes, operations



HAIR



fibers, filaments, yarns



Short description



Description weight dresses. Term applied widely to a range of costume fabrics. 2. GARMENT. (a) A riding costume worn by ladies. (b) A sleeved tunic worn by those in holy orders. (c) The dress characteristic of a particular rank, profession or function (d) Body apparel or attire Term means ‘soft and 1. Term means ‘soft and light’ light’ - and was originally used for Japanese waste silk. Fabric is now made in many Far Eastern countries on power looms in plain or twill weave; is heavier than traditional Chinese silk, and is usually in natural ècru colour. Used for men’s jackets, women’s shirtwaisters and skirts. 2. There is a cheap Silk habutai, which is excellent as a soft, lightweight lining fabric for evening dresses, wedding-dresses, etc., especially for those who find synthetic lining uncomfortable to wear. Not to be confused with the thicker fabric. A combing process in A combing process in the the preparation of flax preparation of flax, designed to separate and straighten the fibres and remove tow. Natural animal fibre Natural animal fibre other other than sheep’s than sheep’s wool or silk. wool or silk. Certain animals other than sheep produce fibres, with special properties, used in



374 Word



Category



Short description



HAIR CANVAS



fabrics



Woven interfacing material in various weights



HAIR CLOTH



fabrics



A fabric in which the



Description clothing fabrics, which are called hairs to distinguish them from wool. In general these specialty hairs are more expensive than wool, particularly in their better qualities, and they are available in much smaller quantities than wool. Woven interfacing material in various weights. Coarse goat hair combined with wool, cotton or rayon is used in the filling. Used in coats and jackets made from suitings and coatings. There are several types of hair canvases to choose from, according to the weight of the fabric being used, 1. Cotton canvas, fairly stiff, 45 % cotton with hair. 2. Softer canvas made from wool, viscose and hair. More expensive. Better quality and a good choice for expensive coatings and suitings. 3. Canvas made from a heavier yarn and hair, a good choice for coatweight fabrics. 4. Gray canvas with a thin white stripe. More expensive than those above. Made from viscose, goat hair and polyester yarn. Available in different weights. 5. Stiff gray canvas of leno weave construction, made of cotton, viscose and goat hair. Used with coatings. 1. A fabric in which the



375 Word



Category



Short description weft consists of single fibres of horsehair



HAIR NETS



fabrics



A net or mesh made of real hair, silk or nylon



HAIRCORD



fabrics



A plain-woven cotton fabric



HAIRCORD CARPET



garments, made-ups, assemblies fabrics



A cord carpet in which the pile is 100% hair.



HAIRLINE STRIPE



A fine hair-like narrow striped colour effect,



Description weft consists of single fibres of horsehair, obtained from tails and manes and woven on a special loom which is capable of inserting picks of the discontinuous fibres. The horse hair may be dyed. The woven structure, which usually has a cotton warp, varies according to the end-use, e.g. interlinings, finishing fabrics, sieve and press cloths. 2. A fabric made of cotton, polyester, linen or other fibres with which horsehair has been mixed to take it strong and inflexible. Used in upholstery and also as a chest canvas in tailoring. See also Woven interfacings. A net or mesh made of real hair, silk or nylon. Used as head covering. A plain-woven cotton fabric; characterized by fine rib lines in the warp direction created by alternate coarse and fine ends, or by having two (or more) ends weaving as one alternately with a single end. These fabrics are produced piece dyed colours and in prints. A cord carpet in which the pile is 100% hair. A fine hair-like narrow striped colour effect, produced either by weaving a single yarn of contrasting colour, or by printing either lengthways



376 Word



Category



Short description



HAIRWEIGHT



fibers, filaments, yarns



The mass per unit length of a fibre



HAIRY HALCHING



defects processes, operations



See Fuzzing. The operation of looping the external yarn



HALF BLOOD



See Blood.



HALF CARDIGAN RIB



fibers, filaments, yarns fabrics



HALF CLOTH



fabrics



HALF DAMASK



fabrics



HALF RESIST



processes, operations



HALF-BLEACH FINISH



fabrics



HALF-DROP



processes, operations



A 1x1 rib fabric



A term sometimes used to describe a fabric made of wool and cotton. A damask fabric



Description (warp hairline) or crosswise (weft hairline) in a fabric. The mass per unit length of a fibre, usually cotton, expressed in: It is usually expressed by H. This is numerically equivalent to millitex. See also Standard hairweight. See Fuzzing. 1. The operation of looping the external yarn and around a cop or bobbin to facilitate retrieval. 2. See under Leasing. See Blood.



A 1x1 rib fabric in which the wales on one side consist wholly of knitted loops and the wales on the opposite side consist of a held loop and a tuck loop. A term sometimes used to describe a fabric made of wool and cotton.



A damask fabric made with silk warp and cotton or wool weft. A partial resist printing. A partial resist printing. The shade is a weaker variation of the shade produced in sections having no resist treatment A linen fabric which is A linen fabric which is partially bleached partially bleached, as distinguished from Full bleach finish. A kind of repeat A kind of repeat printing printing in which the in which the print design print design unit is unit is repeated at a given



377 Word



HALF-GAUGING



HALF-HOSE



HALF-MARL



HALF-MILANO RIB



HALF-POINT TRANSFER HALF-ROUND RUCHE HALF-STITCH HALF-TONE EFFECT



HALO HAND HAND BLOCK PRINTING



Category



Description distance, not directly horizontal but stepped down half its vertical dimension. Also known, in the textile industry, as Step-half. Removing alternate processes, Removing alternate operations needles from a knitting needles from a knitting machine either physically machine either or by selection, to physically or by coarsen the gauge or to selection enable certain loop manipulations to take place garments, A leg covering A leg covering garment, made-ups, garment, ending at mid ending at mid calf. assemblies calf. fibers, See under Worsted. See under Worsted. filaments, yarns fabrics A weft-knitted ribA weft-knitted rib-based based fabric fabric, consisting of (i) one row of 1x1 rib and (ii) one row of plain knitting made on either set of needles. The appearance and characteristics of the fabric are related to the ratio of the course lengths of (i) and (ii). See also Milano rib. processes, See Knotted stitch and See Knotted stitch and operations Spread loop. Spread loop. accessories See under Ruche See under Ruche seams, stitches processes, operations



Short description repeated at a given distance



Loose, open stitches Loose, open stitches used in pillow laces used in pillow laces In printing, a gradual In printing, a gradual shading from light to shading from light to dark dark in the same colour in the same colour defects See under Swealing See under Swealing fabrics See Hand of fabric See Hand of fabric processes, Process of printing Process of printing operations textiles using blocks textiles using blocks. The blocks are made of wood, linoleum or metal, are used to apply thickened



378 Word



Category



Short description



HAND FLAT KNITTING MACHINE



apparatus, equipage, tools



A ‘V-bed’, flat bed or single bed latch needle knitting machine designed to be powered by hand.



HAND FRAME



apparatus, equipage, tools



A characteristic of the hand frame is the heavy oak ‘frame’ that supports the working ‘head’.



HAND KERCHIEF LAWN HAND KERCHIEF LINEN



fabrics fabrics



Description dyestuff pastes at normal room temperatures. A separate block is used for each different colour in the finished design. The size of the block is limited by size and weight that the printer can handle. It is a slow operation A ‘V-bed’, flat bed or single bed latch needle knitting machine designed to be powered by hand. Such machines are widely used industrially, where the product competes favourably with the power machine. Very quick response and very short production runs are possible. Knitting machines constructed like the original invented by the Reverend William Lee in Calverton (1589), having horizontally mounted bearded needles and drop down sinkers. A characteristic of the hand frame is the heavy oak ‘frame’ that supports the working ‘head’. See Handkerchief linen.



See Handkerchief linen. Also known as ‘handAlso known as ‘handkerchief lawn’; it kerchief lawn’; it describes the finest describes the finest cotton or linen lawn cotton or linen lawn fabric, or cambric, used fabric, or cambric, used for handkerchiefs. Made for handkerchiefs. in plain colours or printed; it can be boiled and hotwashed, and wears very well. In addition to handkerchiefs it is used for baby clothes,



379 Word



Category



HAND KNOTTED CARPET



garments, made-ups, assemblies



HAND LOOMED



fabrics



HAND OF FABRIC



fabrics



Short description



Description christening gowns and table linen. A carpet made by A carpet made by knotting tufts into a knotting tufts into a substrate by hand. substrate by hand. The two most common types of knot used are the Persian (or sehba) and the Turkish (or ghiordes). Also called Hand Also called Hand woven. woven. Fabrics, which are woven on either the hand or hand-and-foot power loom. Also called Hand and Also called Hand and Handle. The tactile Handle. The tactile sensations or sensations or impressions which arise impressions which arise when fabrics are when fabrics are touched, squeezed, rubbed, or touched, squeezed, rubbed, or otherwise otherwise handled. Term comprising various handled. Term physical handling comprising various properties of fabric, such physical handling as: properties of fabric Flexibility: Term explaining ease of bending, varying from pliable (high) to stiff (low). Compressibility: Term explaining ease of squeezing, varying from soft (high) to hard (low). Extensibility: Term explaining ease of stretching, varying from stretchy (high) to nonstretchy (low). Resilience: Term explaining ability to recover from deformation, varying from springy (high) to limp (low). Resilience may be flexural, compressional, or torsional. Density: Term explaining mass per unit volume



380 Word



HAND PICK



HAND SCREEN PRINTING HAND SPUN



HAND WASHING



HAND WHEEL



HAND WOVEN



Category



Short description



Description (based on measurement of thickness and fabric weight), varying from compact (high) to open (low). Surface contour: Term explaining divergence of the surface from planeness, varying from rough (high) to smooth (low). Surface friction: Term explaining resistance to slipping offered by the surface, varying from harsh (high) to slippery (low). Thermal character: Term explaining apparent difference in temperature of the fabric and skin of the observer touching it, varying from cool (high) to warm (low). defects A fabric defect A fabric defect, produced when a pick is pulled out of line for a short distance, resulting in a triangular shaped hole processes, Printing from flat Printing from flat screens operations screens by hand. by hand. fibers, Yarns, which are spun Yarns, which are spun by filaments, by hand, or fabrics hand, or fabrics made yarns, fabrics made from such yarns. from such yarns. They are more interesting and unusual than the more uniform machine spun processes, The most gentle form The most gentle form of operations of home laundering home laundering using hand manipulation without the use of a machine or device such as a scrubbing board. apparatus, See Balance wheel. See Balance wheel. equipage, tools fabrics See Hand loomed. See Hand loomed.



381 Word HAND-HOLD HAND-OVERCAST SEAM-FINISH



HAND-WASH, DRIPDRY HANDLE



Category processes, operations seams, stitches



Short description See Roving courses A finish for the raw edges of a plain seam, in which hand stitches, are taken over the raw edges of each seam allowance



A finish for the raw edges of a plain seam, in which hand stitches, are taken over the raw edges of each seam allowance. A hand-overcast seamfinish is made by using a single thread and needle to stitch by hand 3 to 6 mm deep and 6 mm apart over the raw edge of each seam allowance. See Wash-and-wear. See Wash-and-wear.



garments, made-ups, assemblies IN FABRIC. The fabrics, character of a fabric as fibers, filaments, determined by handling it. yarns, apparatus, equipage, tools



HANDLOOM



apparatus, equipage, tools



HANG PICK



defects



HANG SHOT HANK



defects fibers, filaments, yarns



Description See Roving courses



1. IN FABRIC. The character of a fabric as determined by handling it. See Hand of fabric. 2. IN GARMENT. A loop or loops fixed on a garment for hanging it up. 3. AS AN APPLIANCE. A device of wood, metal or plastic from which a garment may be hung. A hand operated A hand operated machine machine for producing for producing cloth by cloth by weaving weaving. In some instances, the shedding is performed by foot operation Also called Hang shot. Also called Hang shot. Fabric defect. Fabric defect. A pick, caught on a warp yarn knot for a short distance, producing a triangular shaped hole in the fabric. See Hang pick See Hang pick Also called Skein, Also called Skein, Reel. Reel. 1. In indirect yarn numbering system, a skein of such a length that the number of such skeins per pound equals



382 Word



HANK DYEING



HANK SIZING



HANKING MACHINE



HARATEEN



HARD DOT



Category



Short description



Description the indirect yarn number (count); e.g. since the cotton count is the number of 840 yard lengths per pound, a skein having a length of 840 yard is a hank in that system. See also Yarn numbering system. 2. An unsupported coil (e.g. approximately 135 cm in circumference) composed of a specified number of wraps of yarn or sliver and wound on a reeling machine with a cross-wound pattern that allows the resulting assembly of strands to be leased. Hanks may be bundled for ease of transport and storage. After processes such as bleaching, dyeing, yarn from a hank, mounted on a swift is wound onto a suitable package processes, Dyeing yarn that has Dyeing yarn that has operations been reeled into hanks. been reeled into hanks. Sometimes also called Skein dyeing. processes, The sizing of yarn in The sizing of yarn in the operations the form of hanks or form of hanks or skeins, skeins normally used for experimental work or short warps. apparatus, See Reeling machine. See Reeling machine. equipage, tools fabrics A furnishing cloth, A furnishing cloth, made made with a worsted with a worsted warp and warp and a thicker a thicker worsted weft to worsted weft form horizontal ribs, and then finished by watering and stamping. apparatus, In photogravure In photogravure printing, equipage, printing, the system in the system in which the tools which the cells are of cells are of differing



383 Word



Category



HARD END HARD FIBRE



defects fibers, filaments, yarns fabrics



HARD FINISHED



Short description differing widths but of the same depth. See Tight twist end. See Leaf fibre.



A fabric the face of which is finished without any nap.



Description widths but of the same depth. See Tight twist end. See Leaf fibre.



1. Usually refers to wool fabrics woven from tightly twisted yarns and finished without napping. 2. A fabric the face of which is finished without any nap. The term is applied to cotton, woollen and worsted fabrics. HARD LAID ROPE accessories See under Rope. See under Rope. HARD SILK fibers, Raw silk, which has not Raw silk, which has not filaments, been degummed. been degummed. yarns HARD SIZE defects Also called Starch Also called Starch lump. lump. Fabric defect Fabric defect. Sections in the cloth, where the warp contains an excessive quantity of sizing. Formula contains sodium HARD SOAP ³ Formula contains sodium compounds of compounds of fatty acids that harden when fatty acids that harden exposed to air. when exposed to air. HARD SPUN YARNS fibers, Yarns spun with a high Yarns spun with a high filaments, tight twist tight twist yarns Waste from reeling, HARD WASTE fibers, Waste from reeling, warping, winding, filaments, warping, winding, weaving, and cop yarns weaving, and cop bottoms bottoms HARD WATER general Water having a high Water having a high magnesium or calcium magnesium or calcium content. content. A special soap is necessary in order to make suds. HARDANGER CLOTH fabrics Plain weave cotton Plain weave cotton fabric of coarse construction, so fabric of coarse that the weave is easily construction, so that visible. Used for the weave is easily embroidery, especially visible. the types where threads have to be counted. The



384 Word



Category



Short description



HARDENING



processes, operations



Treatment of manmade regenerated protein filaments



HARE HAIR



fibers, filaments, yarns



The hair texture of hare is soft and woolly



HARE POCKET



garments, made-ups, assemblies



An extra large jetted pocket inserted in to the lining of a coat



HARLEQUIN



fabrics



A large plaid check in three or more contrasting colours;



HARNESS



apparatus, equipage, tools



In looms, a frame containing a number of heddles which is moved up and down to help form the warp shed



Description threads are usually arranged in pairs 1. Treatment of manmade regenerated protein filaments so as to render them completely insoluble in cold water and cold dilute saline solutions. 2. A process in the pressed felt industry and in hat manufacture in which a mass of loose fibres, after being roughly shaped by carding and forming is subjected to a high-speed vibratory motion in the presence of steam while under considerable mechanical pressure. The hair texture of hare is soft and woolly. Hare hair is greatly used in the USA. It may be spun with wool, to produce a result similar to that of a wool/rabbit mixture An extra large jetted pocket inserted in to the lining of a coat, usually fastened with buttons. A large plaid check in three or more contrasting colours; also, a large, bold check, generally made with a white check and a contrasting check of a vivid colour. In looms, a frame containing a number of heddles which is moved up and down to help form the warp shed, i.e. to separate the warp yarns to make an opening for the weft yarns to pass through. At least two



385 Word



Category



Short description



HARNESS BREAKDOWN



defects



Fabric defect, major.



HARNESS MARK



defects



Roughed-up warp yarn shows in dark lines when the fabric is being woven.



HARNESS SKIP HARRIS TWEED



defects fabrics



See Float Rough, very hardwearing tweed fabric in mixed natural colours with a distinctive close weave and hairy finish.



HARVARD



fabrics



A shirting cloth with 2/2 twill weave, usually with a coloured warp



Description harneses are required. Fabric defect, major. Caused by the harness straps breaking on a conventional loom. A definite pattern change in the weave will be seen on the fabric. Roughed-up warp yarn shows in dark lines when the fabric is being woven. The result of the heddles not operating smoothly because they are tight, loose or worn appreciably See Float Rough, very hardwearing tweed fabric in mixed natural colours with a distinctive close weave and hairy finish. Comes only from the islands of the Outer Hebrides, where it was once made from handspun woollen yarn and the cloth is labeled accordingly, but it is a very exclusive and expensive cloth. The wool is usually dyed before spinning so the colour mixtures in heather, lovat and brown are standard types. The weave is usually 2/2 twill either straight or herringbone and a variety of check patterns are produced. The finish is full in handle and fibrous although the weave is not obscured. Used mainly for expensive tailored coats and suits. A shirting cloth with 2/2 twill weave, usually with a coloured warp and white



386 Word



Category



Short description and white weft.



HAT BODY



fabrics



Also called Hat shape. Millinery fabric, which has been blocked.



HAT SHAPE HATCHED



fabrics fabrics



See Hat body Fabric in which one pattern, colour or yarn is overlaid on another



HATTING HAUTEUR



Description weft. These are often ornamented by stripes of white or coloured threads or by simple weave effects or by both. Also called Hat shape. Millinery fabric, which has been blocked. This is the form in which hat material is usually sold in the millinery trade See Hat body Fabric in which one pattern, colour or yarn is overlaid on another. May be woven or printed. The term also meant, crossed with lines. Millinery fabrics. See under Fibre length.



fabrics Millinery fabrics. fibers, See under Fibre length. filaments, yarns HAWSER LAID ROPE accessories See under Rope See under Rope HAWSER TWIST fibers, The construction of The construction of filaments, cabled yarn, cord, or cabled yarn, cord, or rope yarns rope in which the single and first-ply twist are in the same direction and the second-ply twist is in the opposite direction, and S/S/Z or Z/Z/S construction. HEAD accessories, IN ZIPPERS. The 1. IN ZIPPERS. The apparatus, portion of the element portion of the element equipage, that engages the that engages the pocket. tools pocket. 2. IN PRESSING MACHINE. The upper, movable working surface of the pressing machine which incorporates the mating shape or contour to that of the buck. The head comes in to contact with the garment with or without pressure. HEAD BAND accessories A woven narrow fabric A woven narrow fabric used in bookbinding used in bookbinding, and



387 Word



Category



Short description



HEAD END



fabrics



The beginning of a new piece of fabric in the loom,



HEAD GIRTH



HEADING



garments, Garment-related term. made-ups, assemblies fabrics, The beginning and the accessories end of a piece of woven fabric



HEADSTOCK



apparatus, equipage, tools



A geared head used to drive a warp beam



HEALD



apparatus, equipage, tools



Also called Heddle.



HEART YARN



fibers, filaments, yarns



HEAT DURABILITY



general



Description having a coloured piped or beaded edge woven integrally 1. The beginning of a new piece of fabric in the loom, usually showing identification marks. 2. A representative sample of a larger lot of cloth. Garment-related term. See under Garment sizing system. 1. The beginning and the end of a piece of woven fabric. 2. See under Fringe. A geared head used to drive a warp beam in the beaming, warping or slashing operations. Also called Heddle. A device made of looped cord, shaped wire or thin, flat, steel strip with an eye in the centre through which a warp end is threaded so that its movement can then be controlled during weaving. See also Harness A center thread around which other threads are twisted to form core yarn.



A center thread around which other threads are twisted to form core yarn. The extent, to which a The extent, to which a material retains its useful material retains its properties at ambient air useful properties at ambient air conditions conditions, following its exposure to a specified temperature and environment for a specified time and its return to the ambient air conditions. (Compare Heat resistance.)



388 Word HEAT DURABLE HEAT FLUX



HEAT RESISTANCE



HEAT RESISTANT HEAT SHRINKAGE



HEAT TRANSFER COEFFICIENT HEAT TRANSFER PRINTING



HEAT-SETTING



Category general



Short description Description Having the property of Having the property of heat durability. heat durability. The thermal intensity general The thermal intensity indicated by the amount indicated by the of power per unit area. amount of power per unit area. general The extent to which a The extent to which a material retains its material retains its useful useful properties properties as measured during exposure of the material to a specified temperature and environment for a specified time. (Compare Heat durability). general Having the property of Having the property of heat resistance. heat resistance. fabrics The change in The change in dimension dimension of a fabric of a fabric specimen specimen exposed to exposed to heat. heat. general See Thermal See Thermal transmittance. transmittance. processes, A method of textile A method of textile operations printing printing in which, the complete design is transferred from a previously printed transfer medium, usually paper, on to the fabric with which it is in contact, by means of heat and pressure. Process of imposing processes, Process of imposing operations permanent dimensions permanent dimensions upon thermoplastic upon thermoplastic garments and materials garments and materials by the action of heat, by the action of heat, with with or without steam. or without steam. When dimensional constraints are applied, new linkages are formed which stabilise the shape dictated and which will remain unchanged until the material is subjected to a temperature higher



389 Word



Category



Short description



HEATHER



³



it is the basis of the yellow dye used in dyeing Harris tweeds.



HEATHER MIX



fibers, filaments, yarns



Varicoloured fibres are blended



HEATHER-MIXTURES



fabrics



Describes both woven and knitted wool fabric found in a combination of greens and purples, or Scottish heather colours.



HEAVY COLOUR HEAVY DUTY SOAP



defects ³



See Machine stop. A cleansing agent



HEAVY END HEAVY FILLING HEAVY GOODS



defects defects fabrics



HEAVY PICK HEAVY PLACE HEDDLE



defects defects apparatus, equipage, tools



See Coarse end. See Coarse pick Another name which is popular in India for Sacking. See Coarse pick See Coarse filling bar See Heald.



Description than that of heat-setting. There are two types of heat setting; Dry heatsetting and Steam heatsetting, using saturated steam. The stage at which heat setting takes place varies according to the type of material and the preferred sequence of processes. Unless there are reasons to the contrary, setting after dyeing is preferred. A popular flower in the British Isles; it is the basis of the yellow dye used in dyeing Harris tweeds. Varicoloured fibres are blended to produce a yarn with a mixed or speckled effect. Describes both woven and knitted wool fabric found in a combination of greens and purples, or Scottish heather colours. Colours are often used in equal amounts so that no one colour predominates See Machine stop. A cleansing agent that has special alkalies added to improve its cleaning power. See Coarse end. See Coarse pick Another name which is popular in India for Sacking. See Coarse pick See Coarse filling bar See Heald.



390 Word HEIGHT



Short description Garment-related term.



HELANCA



Category garments, made-ups, assemblies fabrics



HELD LOOP



fabrics



HELICAL SELVEDGE HELIX YARN



fabrics fibers, filaments, yarns fabrics



In knitting, a loop which, having been pulled through the loop of the previous course, is retained by the needle during the knitting of one or more additional courses See under Selvedge. A textured yarn that is curled or crimped



HELVETIA



HEM



HEM ALLOWANCE



HEMLINE



HEMMER



Made from Swiss elastic fibre of nylon and polyester.



Description Garment-related term. See under Garment sizing system Made from Swiss elastic fibre of nylon and polyester. Fabrics have two-way stretch and are very hardwearing and washable. Used for sportswear, skiwear, swimsuits, trousers, and panels in maternity clothes In knitting, a loop which, having been pulled through the loop of the previous course, is retained by the needle during the knitting of one or more additional courses See under Selvedge. A textured yarn that is curled or crimped



A warp-faced poplin A warp-faced poplin made with greige silk made with greige silk warp and spun silk weft warp and spun silk weft and printed on both and printed on both sides. The number of sides. ends per inch are about twice the number of picks. Weft is sometimes made of fine count cotton. Similar to Japonais A folded edge produced garments, A folded edge made-ups, produced by turning in by turning in the edge of assemblies the edge of a garment a garment and securing it. and securing it. garments, The amount of fabric The amount of fabric made-ups, turned under at the turned under at the assemblies hemline. hemline. garments, The line along which a The line along which a made-ups, hem is marked and hem is marked and assemblies folded. folded. apparatus, In sewing machine, an In sewing machine, an



391 Word



Category equipage, tools



Short description attachment



HEMMING-STITCH



seams, stitches fibers, filaments, yarns



A short, quickly sewn, slanting stitch. True hemp is a fine, light-coloured, lustrous, and strong bast fibre, obtained from the hemp plant, ‘Cannabis sativa’.



HENEQUEN



fibers, filaments, yarns



A fibre obtained from the leaf of ‘Agava fourcroydes’.



HENRIETTA



fabrics



Fine diagonal twilled dress fabric made with silk warp and fine worsted weft, which makes it, resemble Cashmere cloth.



HERRINGBONE



fabrics



WEAVE. A combination of twill weaves in which the direction of the twill is reversed



HEMP



Description attachment, which folds the material so that the edge is turned under to form a hem when sewn. A short, quickly sewn, slanting stitch. True hemp is a fine, lightcoloured, lustrous, and strong bast fibre, obtained from the hemp plant, ‘Cannabis sativa’. A plant similar to jute, grown in many countries. When spun, it is rather like flax but thicker and coarser. It is a very strong fibre and is used in the manufacture of carpets, rugs, ropes, etc. but has limited use because bleaching is difficult. The term ‘hemp’ is often incorrectly used in a generic sense for fibres from different plants, e.g. manila ‘hemp’, sisal ‘hemp’, sunn ‘hemp’, etc, A fibre obtained from the leaf of ‘Agava fourcroydes’. This closely resembles Sisal. Fine diagonal twilled dress fabric made with silk warp and fine worsted weft, which makes it, resemble Cashmere cloth. Once in great demand, but it has not been very much in evidence for some time 1. WEAVE. A combination of twill weaves in which the direction of the twill is reversed (usually by drafting) to produce stripes resembling



392 Word



Category



Short description



HESSEN HESSIAN



fabrics fabrics



See Barras. Coarse, even, plain weave and plain dyed cloth. Bast fibres, often coarse jute, or sometimes jute and hemp yarns are used to make this.



HETEROFIL FIBRE



fibers, filaments, yarns



Original generic name for biconstituent fibres. Also called Meldable fibres.



Description ‘herringbones’ 2. FABRIC. A cloth in which this weave is used. See Barras. Coarse, even, plain weave and plain dyed cloth. Bast fibres, often coarse jute, or sometimes jute and hemp yarns are used to make this. Used for sacking and in upholstery, but it can also be a well finished smooth cloth, dyed in a wide variety of colours and used for wall-covering, notice board covering, curtains and blinds. Name applied in United Kingdom, India, and on the Continent to material called ‘burlap’ in the United States. See also Burlap Original generic name for biconstituent fibres. Also called Meldable fibres. Multicomponent synthetic fibres have been made by extruding two or more polymers, under conditions such that they do not mix, through the same spinneret. These bicomponent fibres may be structurally side-byside, sheath-core or eccentric sheath-core. Heterofil or meldable fibres consist of a sheath of nylon 6, which has a comparatively low melting point and a core of nylon 66 with a higher meting point. Filaments are extruded from a battery of spinnerets on to a moving conveyor and laid in



393 Word



Category



Short description



HETEROFILAMENTS



fibers, filaments, yarns fibers, filaments, yarns



See Heterofil fibre.



HETEROTYPICAL FIBRE



HI-LO PILE



fabrics



Description random fashion to form a web. This is then heated so that the filament skin of the individual fibre softens and melts and spot bonds are formed where the heterofil fibres touch. The web is next passed to a cooling zone where the skin solidifies to form a permanent bond at each intersection. The method of fabric production varies. In some cases the web is needled and then passed through an oven to produce the inter-fibre bonds. Alternatively the web can be passed beneath a heated pressure roller. This method has the benefit that a lower processing temperature can be used and an embossed roller will produce a surface pattern on the fabric. An example of hetrofil fibre is the Nylon hetrofil fibre available with a sheath of nylon 6 and a core of nylon 66. See Heterofil fibre.



A coarse type of carpet A coarse type of carpet wool whose fibre wool whose fibre structure varies along structure varies along its entire length; it is its entire length; questionable whether this fibre can be classified as Wool or Hair The pile texture of The pile texture of domestic rugs. domestic rugs. Certain areas of pile are sheared so that the pile is higher (Hi) than the pile in other



394 Word



Category



HICKORY CLOTH



fabrics



HIDING POWER



fabrics



HIGH CHARGED SYSTEM HIGH COUNT FABRICS HIGH ELONGATION HWM FIBRES



processes, operations fabrics



HIGH STRENGTH HWM FIBRES HIGH TEMPERATURE FIBRE



fibers, filaments, yarns fibers, filaments, yarns fibers, filaments, yarns



Short description



Description areas (Lo). This resembles This resembles Ticking, Ticking, but is lighter in but is lighter in weight weight and not so and not so firmly woven. firmly woven. Made from cotton, or polyester and cotton. Used for protective clothing, overalls, etc. The ability of a fabric to The ability of a fabric to obscure what lies obscure what lies underneath it. underneath it. See under Charged See under Charged system. system. Closely woven fabrics. Closely woven fabrics. See under HWM modal See under HWM modal fibre. fibre. See under HWM modal See under HWM modal fibre fibre Fibres capable of retaining useful properties at elevated temperatures,



HIGH VOLUME INSTRUMENTATION



apparatus, equipage, tools



Also called HVI.



HIGH WARP



fabrics



A warp hung vertically in the loom instead of horizontally, as is now usual.



HIGH-BULK YARN



fibers, filaments, yarns



A fluffy, textured yarn, made from a combination of high and low shrinkage staple fibres.



Fibres capable of retaining useful properties at elevated temperatures, above about 400 °C., e.g. Aluminium silicate fibre Also called HVI. An assembly of integrated semi-automatic electronic instruments for rapid determination of the fineness, length, impurity content and strength of samples of raw cotton. A warp hung vertically in the loom instead of horizontally, as is now usual. Particularly apples to tapestry looms A fluffy, textured yarn, made from a combination of high and low shrinkage staple fibres. When the combined yarn is immersed in water during processing, the high



395 Word



Category



Short description



HIGH-BUST GIRTH



garments, made-ups, assemblies garments, made-ups, assemblies processes, operations



Garment-related term.



HIGHTEMPERATURE DYEING



processes, operations



Also called HTHP (High Temperature High Pressure) dyeing.



HIGH-TENACITY FIBRE



fibers, filaments, yarns



A man-made fibre either, belonging to a generic class of fibres having exceptional breaking strength.



HIGH-HIP GIRTH



HIGH-SPEED SPINNING



Garment-related term



A melt spinning process



Description shrinkage fibre draws itself down to the centre of the yarn causing the low shrinkage fibres to buckle or fluff, thus producing a fluffy yarn sited for sweaters or similar purposes. See also Bulky yarn. Garment-related term. See under Garment sizing system Garment-related term. See under Garment sizing system. A melt spinning process in which filaments are drawn down and collected at high speeds. Also called HTHP (High Temperature High Pressure) dyeing. Dyeing at high-pressure (above atmospheric) in order to dye at a temperature above the normal boiling point. Application of dyestuffs, especially to petroleum based synthetic fibres, in aqueous baths at temperatures upto even 390 ºC. in pressurised equipment A man-made fibre either, belonging to a generic class of fibres having exceptional breaking strength. A man-made fibre, modified by various methods to give it increased tensile strength. This will have a breaking strength significantly greater than the average strength of other (regular tenacity)



396 Word



Category



Short description



HIMALAYA



fabrics



HIP



garments, made-ups, assemblies garments, made-ups, assemblies defects defects



Appearance and weight is like Shantung, but is made from slub cotton yarns. Garment-related term



HIP GIRTH



HITCH-BACK HOCKLE



Garment-related term.



See Draw-back. Sometimes also called Cockle



HOG WOOL



fibers, filaments, yarns



The first clip from a sheep not shorn as a lamb.



HOGGET WOOL



See Hog wool.



HOLE



fibers, filaments, yarns defects



HOLE COUNT HOLLAND



fabrics fabrics



Fabric defect.



Description fibres in same generic class and of equivalent linear densities. High-tenacity fibres are usually used in industrial products where mechanical properties, such as strength, are major factors in fibre selecti Appearance and weight is like Shantung, but is made from slub cotton yarns. Garment-related term. See under Garment sizing system Garment-related term. See under Garment sizing system. See Draw-back. Sometimes also called Cockle. In cordage, deformation of the strands in a laid rope, during manufacture, caused by the removal of kinks by pulling them out of the rope by force. Also called Hogget wool, and Teg wool. The first clip from a sheep not shorn as a lamb. See Hog wool.



Fabric defect. An imperfection where one or more yarns are sufficiently damaged to create an aperture. Usually caused by broken needle. See under Lace quality See under Lace quality A completely filled, A completely filled, medium-weight, plain- medium-weight, plainweave fabric made weave fabric made from



397 Word



HOLLIE POINT LACE



HOLLIE-STITCH



HOLLOW BRAID



HOLLOW FIBRE



HOLLOW SPINDLE SPINNING



Category



Short description from linen or cotton yarn, having a smooth gloss finish on both sides



Description linen or cotton yarn, having a smooth gloss finish on both sides; the finish of size and oil is applied to stiffen it. Mainly used as a separating medium for sheeted rubber compounds and in upholstery for undercovering, as it is firm and hardwearing. Holland is also a canvas interfacing. See Woven interfacings. fabrics A needlepoint lace A needlepoint lace worked in patterns worked in patterns depicting scriptural subjects or religious emblems. seams, A type of buttonholeA type of buttonholestitches stitch with a twist. stitch with a twist. Used in making Hollie point lace In rope, a braided accessories In rope, a braided construction of either construction of either plain or twill braid, having plain or twill braid, an empty centre. having an empty centre. A tube-like fibre or fibers, A tube-like fibre or filament made in viscose, filaments, filament made in yarns viscose, polyester and polyester and some other fibres, making use of the some other fibres, theory of still air for making use of the warmth. The fibre is theory of still air for extruded completely warmth. hollow, as very fine micro-tubes, air-filled along the length of fibre, at the same time making them appreciably softer and lighter than standard fibres. Used in thermal underwear, soft warm fillings for outerwear and upholstery. processes, Also called Wrap Also called Wrap operations spinning. A system of spinning. A system of yarn formation in which yarn formation in which



398 Word



Category



Short description the feed stock (sliver or roving) is drafted, and the drafted twistless strand is wrapped with a yarn as it passes through a rotating hollow spindle



HOLLOW-FILAMENT YARN



fibers, filaments, yarns



Also called Aerated yarn. A viscose rayon yarn produced from a spinning solution in which bubbles of air or inert gas are systematically formed by incorporating fluids or solids with the viscose solution to produce a gas.



Description the feed stock (sliver or roving) is drafted, and the drafted twistless strand is wrapped with a yarn as it passes through a rotating hollow spindle. The binder or wrapping yarn is mounted on the hollow spindle and is unwound and wrapped around the core by rotation of the spindle. The technique may be used for producing a range of wrap-spun yarns, or fancy yarns, by using different yarn and fibre feedstocks fed to the hollow spindle at different speeds. See also Spinning. Also called Aerated yarn. A viscose rayon yarn produced from a spinning solution in which bubbles of air or inert gas are systematically formed by incorporating fluids or solids with the viscose solution to produce a gas. The yarn, therefore, contains small amounts of air or inert gas, and because of its special structure possesses characteristics different from regular solid filament viscose yarn. It has a greater covering power, because the ribbon-like form of the fibre gives it more volume, and a great deal of the bulk of the yarn is filled with the bubbles, which have practically no weight. The larger number of surfaces in the yarn gives a greater



399 Word



HOME LAUNDERING



HOMESPUN



Category



Short description



Description degree of light reflection and refraction which decreases the lustre, making it duller than ordinary delustred rayon, and the hollow structure of the yarn results in a lower coefficient of heat transmission than ordinary solid viscose rayon, in addition to greater flexibility and softness of hand. It is warmer to the touch than regular viscose rayon and has a very dry feel, but its tensile strength is low. Used for hosiery, velvets, necktie fabrics, underwear, etc. Macaroni yarn and Tubular yarn are terms sometimes applied to hollow-filament yarn. However, they are hardly apt descriptions, since the air bubbles within the yarn do not form a continuous tubular opening. See Macaroni yarn and Tubular yarn. A process by which processes, A process by which operations textile products or parts textile products or parts thereof may be washed, thereof may be bleached, dried, and washed, bleached, pressed by any dried, and pressed customary method designed for use in a residence, or nonprofessional use. See also Professional care Rather coarse, plainfabrics Rather coarse, plainweave woollen fabric weave woollen fabric with a hand-woven with a hand-woven appearance, which was appearance, which was once actually woven in once actually woven in the home in all countries. the home in all Has always been a countries. hardwearing, serviceable



400 Word



Category



Short description



HOMOPOLYMER



³



HOMOPOLYMER FIBRE



fibers, filaments, yarns



A polymer composed of one substance or one type of molecule A man-made fibre



HONAN



fabrics



Fabric made from silk yarn obtained from the Honan area of China, which is the only type of wild silk that accepts dye evenly.



HONEYCOMB



fabrics



A fabric, in which the warp and weft threads form ridges and hollows, which give a cell-like appearance.



Description cloth, but is now entirely machine-made, although sometimes labeled Homespun to indicate its good qualities. It may be made from any fibre now, and in any weight. Similar to Harris tweed A polymer composed of one substance or one type of molecule A man-made fibre having a single chemical polymer as distinguished from a copolymer. Fabric made from silk yarn obtained from the Honan area of China, which is the only type of wild silk that accepts dye evenly. Fabric is light and rough textured. Honan is also used to describe a viscose fabric, which has a checked effect. A fabric, in which the warp and weft threads form ridges and hollows, which give a cell-like appearance. Warp and weft threads float on both sides and the rough structure makes the cloth absorbent. It may be printed or woven in patterns. Cotton Honeycomb (sometimes called ‘Waffle cloth’), is very common and, plain or printed, is used for children’s clothes, dresses, kitchen curtains, table cloths. Often contains some polyester fibre. There are three types of weave which produce this



401 Word



Category



Short description



HONEYCOMB STITCH



seams, stitches



A stitch made by gathering and sewing the cloth in either a diamond or honeycomb fashion; sometimes called smocking.



HONEYDEW



defects



The result of infestation of growing cotton by aphids or whitefly.



HONG KONG SEAMFINISH



processes, operations



A finish for the raw edges of a plain seam, in which a binding fabric encloses the raw edge of each seam allowance



Description effect: (a) Ordinary honeycomb, which gives a marked cellular effect on the face and back of the cloth, (b) Brighton honeycomb, which develops the effect more prominently on the face but in a less regular manner and with large and small cells and (c) Grecian weave. A stitch made by gathering and sewing the cloth in either a diamond or honeycomb fashion; sometimes called smocking. Used for ornamentation of blouses, children’s dresses and smocks. The result of infestation of growing cotton by aphids or whitefly. It takes the form of more or less randomly distributed droplets of highly concentrated sugars, causing cotton sickness. A finish for the raw edges of a plain seam, in which a binding fabric encloses the raw edge of each seam allowance; the binding fabric has one raw edge enclosed and the other raw edge exposed. A Hong Kong seam-finish is made by (1) selecting a strip of light weight bias lining or commercial bias tape pressed open (25 mm wide), (2) placing the bias strip against each seam allowance, face sides together and raw edges even, (3) stitching 6 mm



402 Word



HONITON LACE



HOOD



HOOK



HOOK AND LOOP FASTENERS HOOK-AND-EYE FASTENERS



Category



Short description



Description from the raw edges, (4) pressing the binding away from the seam allowance and over raw edges toward the inside, and (5) stitching in the previous stitching line (sometimes called ‘stitchin-the-ditch’) on the face side of the seam allowance, thus securing the binding on the under side. (Compare Bound seam-finish). fabrics Hand-made lace Hand-made lace characterized by designs of flowers and leaves on a very fine mesh ground. garments, Also called Body. Also called Body. Acidmade-ups, milled cone-shaped felt assemblies used in hat manufacture. apparatus, In sewing machine, a In sewing machine, a equipage, rotating device which rotating device which tools accommodates the accommodates the spool spool and picks up the needle thread in some types of lockstitch machines. accessories See Self-fastening tape See Self-fastening tape fasteners. fasteners. accessories Used as garment Used as garment closures. closures. Standard metal hook-and-eyes are made available with two types of eyes; straight eye or looped eye; selection of the eye type is based on the location of the closure in the garment. The hook and straight eye is used where garment edges overlap. The hook and loop eye is preferred where garment edges just meet, such as at the back of turtleneck collars. It is to be noted that, in some garments a hook and thread eye is used



403 Word



Category



Short description



HOOKED BOW



defects



Fabric defect.



HOPSACK



fabrics



Also called Mat, Matt, Basket. Originally hopsack was a coarse double yarn sacking, made from jute or hemp.



HOPSACK WEAVE HORIZONTAL LINE HORSE BLANKET



fabrics defects fabrics



HORSE HAIR



fibers, filaments, yarns



See Basket weave. Same as Ring See under Tattersal check under Checks. Long, very coarse hair from manes and tails of horses.



Description rather than a metal eye. Fabric defect. A fabric condition in which the weft or course yarns are in the proper position for most of the fabric width but are pulled out of alignment at one side of the fabric. See also Double hooked bow. Also called Mat, Matt, Basket. Originally hopsack was a coarse double yarn sacking, made from jute or hemp. Now the name is given to a plain-weave suiting weight cloth made by using two or more yarns in each direction. May be made from any natural or synthetic fibre, but if synthetic, the fibres are usually bulked to produce the traditional cloth. May also be produced as a furnishing and curtain fabric. Generally hopsack fabrics will fray fairly readily. The basic hopsack weaves may be modified in various ways, e.g. by introducing additional interlacing to give firmer cloth (‘stitched hopsack’), or by arranging small square blocks of figures to form diagonal lines in the fabric (‘twilled hopsack’). See Basket weave. Same as Ring See under Tattersal check under Checks. Long, very coarse hair from manes and tails of horses. At one time it



404 Word



Category



HOSE



garments, made-ups, assemblies



HOSIERY



garments, made-ups, assemblies



Short description



Description made a cheap, strong material used widely for upholstery, carpets and interfacing fabrics, but is now becoming scarce and very expensive. Hair is being replaced by manmade fibre, but the resulting fabric is referred to as ‘Hair canvas’, not Horse hair canvas. See Canvas. A total leg covering 1. A total leg covering ending in a position ending in a position above the knee. above the knee. 2. A tubular woven narrow fabric for conveying fluid under pressure. Knitted coverings for Knitted coverings for feet feet and legs and legs. Hosiery may be knitted from wool, cotton, nylon and other synthetic fibres, alone or in blends such as wool/nylon, polyester/cotton, etc. The type of knit may be weft or warp (mesh and textured). Comfort in wear and seasonal compatibility are important factors in the production of hosiery items like socks, fashioned stockings, seamless stockings, tights and panti-hoses, etc. While sheerness of hosiery is dependent on the denier (yarn weight or size), durability is controlled by denier and gauge (wales per cm and courses per cm). Formerly the term was used in the generic sense of all types of knitted fabrics and goods made up therefrom.



405 Word HOSIERY KNITTING MACHINES



HOSPITAL GAUZE



HOT HEAD PRESS



HOT MERCERIZATION



HOT NOTCHER



HOT PRESSING



HOT WATER EXTRACTION



Category apparatus, equipage, tools



Short description Description A knitting machine for A knitting machine for the the production of production of hosiery. hosiery Most are small-diameter latch-needle circular knitting machines fabrics bleached and sterilized bleached and sterilized cheesecloth used in cheesecloth used in hospitals. hospitals. Equipment capable of apparatus, Equipment capable of generating high equipage, generating high tools temperatures and great temperatures and great pressure. Used for pressure. pressing garments made of sensitized fabric and processing flat-cured fabrics that require higher temperatures and longer periods of time. See Sensitized and Flash curing. The treatment of processes, The treatment of operations cellulosic fabric with a cellulosic fabric with a hot concentrated solution of hot concentrated caustic alkali to facilitate solution of caustic uniform penetration prior alkali to cooling and stretching etc., so as to improve the degree of mercerization. See also Mercerization apparatus, A machine with a A machine with a heated equipage, heated blade blade, used for making tools position marks on the edge of cut fabric parts. processes, A process for A process for smoothing operations smoothing and possibly and possibly shaping shaping textile textile products by products applying mechanical pressure with heat, either dry, or in the presence of moisture. processes, A method of cleaning A method of cleaning operations carpet carpet by injecting a heated cleaning solution into the pile and quickly removing the solution and soil by vacuum. See also Steam cleaning.



406 Word HOT-FLUE



Category apparatus, equipage, tools



HOT-FLUID JET TEXTURING HOTTENROTH NUMBER



processes, operations fibers, filaments, yarns fabrics



HOUNDSTOOTH CHECK



Short description Description A machine in which hot A machine in which hot air is used to dry fabric air is used to dry fabric carried on rollers along carried on rollers along a a serpentine path. serpentine path. See under Texturing. See under Texturing. A measure of the degree of ripening of viscose. A four-pointed star check design in a broken twill weave



A measure of the degree of ripening of viscose.



defects



See under Garment defects, classified.



A four-pointed star check design in a broken twill weave; the checks are medium-sized and one of the colours is often white. Used for men’s sports suiting. See also Checks. See under Garment defects, classified.



See High-temperature dyeing. See High Temperature High Pressure dyeing. See Huckaback. See under Towel.



See High-temperature dyeing. See High Temperature High Pressure dyeing. See Huckaback. See under Towel.



HUCKABACK



processes, operations processes, operations fabrics garments, made-ups, assemblies fabrics



HUCKABACK WEAVE



fabrics



HOUSEKEEPING DEFECTS IN GARMENT HT DYEING HTHP DYEING HUCK HUCK TOWEL



Linen or cotton fabric Linen or cotton fabric with with a square weave a square weave, in which the yarns are twisted to add to its absorption qualities as it is used almost exclusively for towels in hotels, schools, etc. Is made in white or plain colours, sometimes with a woven contrast stripe or name included. Very hardwearing, and fairly stiff and heavy. Lengthwise, but Lengthwise, but interrupted ridges are interrupted ridges are formed by floats of warp formed by floats of warp threads on the threads on the surface of the cloth. Weave is used surface of the cloth mainly for towels and glass-cloths



407 Word HUDSONS BAY



Category fabrics



Short description Also called Point blanket.



HUE



general



Also called Tone



HUMAN TISSUE BURN TOLERANCE



general



HUMIDITY



general



The amount of thermal energy, which causes a second-degree burn in human tissue. The condition of the atmosphere in respect to water vapour



HUNGBACK



fabrics



A light weight warpbacked or weft-backed overcoating fabric



Description Also called Point blanket. A well-milled and raised heavy-weight blanket, made from coarse longstapled wool, with a solid ground and coloured end border, or striped all over, or solid colour with darker end border. Near one corner a number of short stripes or ‘points’ are woven into the edge of the blanket at rightangles to the selvedge. A ‘point’ stripe is about 11 cm long, and a ‘half point’ is about 6 cm. The ‘point’ system is used as an indication of blanker size. Also called Tone. The actual colour, which distinguishes a colour from others, e.g. red, yellow, blue, etc. The attribute of colour perception by means of which an object is judged to be red, orange, yellow, green, blue, violet or a combination of these. The amount of thermal energy, which causes a second-degree burn in human tissue. The condition of the atmosphere in respect to water vapour. (Compare Absolute humidity and Relative humidity). A light weight warpbacked or weft-backed overcoating fabric, usually 2/2 twill ground weave, made from woollen yarns, with extra ‘hung’ threads (cotton, silk, worsted or manmade fibres) forming



408 Word



Category



HUNGRY CLOTH HUNTER’S PINK



fabrics fabrics



HUSKS



fibers, filaments, yarns apparatus, equipage, tools fibers, filaments, yarns



HVI



HWM MODAL FIBRE



Short description



Description checks or stripes on the back of the fabric. The ‘hung’ threads are finer than the ground threads and in the case of 2/2 twill ground weave will have a 3/1 (or 2/1) twill weave. See Grinny cloth. See Grinny cloth. Brilliant scarlet velvet Brilliant scarlet velvet cloth worn by hunters. cloth worn by hunters. Also the name for the colour when used on any fabric. See Bisu. See Bisu.



See High volume instrumentation.



See High volume instrumentation.



These fibres are characterized by high wet modulus (HWM), i.e. resistance to extension when wet, increased ratio of wet to dry breaking tenacity, increased resistance to swelling by caustic alkalis, high degree of polymerization of cellulose, and microfibrillar structure.



These fibres are characterized by high wet modulus (HWM), i.e. resistance to extension when wet, increased ratio of wet to dry breaking tenacity, increased resistance to swelling by caustic alkalis, high degree of polymerization of cellulose, and microfibrillar structure. These characteristics are shared with cotton and other natural cellulosic fibres, and for this reason HWM modal fibres are sometimes called ‘artificial cottons’. High Strength HWM fibres: These are characterized by high tenacities, dry, and wet. Standard HWM fibres: This group includes the majority polynosic fibres. High Elongation HWM fibres: These are



409 Word



Category



Short description



HYDROENTANGLED FABRIC



fabrics



Also called Spunlaced fabric.



HYDROEXTRACTION



processes, operations



A method of removing excess water and moisture from materials



HYDROLYTIC STABILITY



general



HYDROMETER



HYDROPHILIC HYDROPHOBIC HYDROSCOPIC



HYDROSTATIC TEST



HYGRAL EXPANSION



HYGROMETER



HYGROSCOPIC



Description characterized by high elongations, dry and wet. Also called Spunlaced fabric. A nonwoven fabric made from a fibre web or batt, in which entanglement by highpressure water jets provides the bond A method of removing excess water and moisture from materials to facilitate the manipulation of fibres, yarns or fabrics. The ability to withstand the environmental effects of high humidity.



The ability to withstand the environmental effects of high humidity. apparatus, A device for measuring A device for measuring the density or specific equipage, the density or specific gravity, particularly of tools gravity, particularly of liquids and solutions. liquids and solutions. general Water attracting. Water attracting. general Water repelling. Water repelling. fibers, Moisture retaining Moisture retaining filaments, property. property. The ability of a yarns fibre to absorb and retain moisture. Fibres possess this property in varying degrees. processes, A test to determine the A test to determine the operations resistance of a fabric to resistance of a fabric to penetration by water. penetration by water. fabrics The reversible changes The reversible changes in length and width of in length and width of fabrics containing fabrics containing hygroscopic fibres as a hygroscopic fibres as a result of changes in result of changes in regain. regain. apparatus, Any instrument for Any instrument for equipage, measuring the humidity measuring the humidity of tools of the atmosphere the atmosphere general Having a tendency to Having a tendency to absorb water from the absorb water from the air. air.



410 Word HYPOCHLORITE BLEACHING



Category processes, operations



Short description Description The process of The process of whitening whitening textile fabrics textile fabrics by the use of solutions of chlorine. See Bleaching.



I Word ICE COLOURS ICELAND WOOL



IDENTIFICATION TEST



IGNITION IHRAM



IKAT DYEING



Category Short description Description ³ See Azoic dyes See Azoic dyes and and Azoic dyeing. Azoic dyeing. fibers, The wool from The wool from Iceland filaments, Iceland sheep sheep, that have an yarns outer covering of long coarse hair and a fine woolly undergrowth. This undergrowth is used for sweaters and shawls. A procedure involved processes, A procedure in determining facts operations involved in determining facts about textiles, such as kind of fibres, yarns, about textiles, construction, finish, such as kind of and colouring. fibres, yarns, Physical, chemical, construction, microscopical or other finish, and techniques may be colouring. used. general The initiation of The initiation of combustion. combustion. fabrics A white cotton A white cotton cloth cloth devoid of devoid of needlework, needlework, worn worn by pilgrims to by pilgrims to Mecca. Mecca. A process of dyeing processes, A process of operations dyeing originated originated in Indonesia in Indonesia and and Malaysia in which a warp is dyed to a Malaysia in which a warp is dyed to a pattern through the pattern through the use of resist agent. use of resist agent. The warp is made first in rope form and predetermined sections are bound tightly to protect that



411 Word



IKAT FABRIC ILLUMINATED DISCHARGE ILLUMINATION



Category Short description



fabrics



Fabric made from ikat dyed materials processes, See Colour operations discharge printing general, In lighting, the fabrics density or flux of light on a unit area of surface.



ILOCANO CLOTH



fabrics



A bright coloured, striped or checked, cotton fabric woven in Philippines



IMBERLINE STRIPE



fabrics



A fabric, woven in



Description section from the dye. When the warp is opened out after dyeing, a pattern is shown on the warp which comes through into the woven fabric (warp ikat). A variation can be achieved by dyeing the weft yarn in a similar way (weft ikat) and in some cases both warp and weft may be treated (double ikat). Careful control and planning can give interesting and unusual figured effects in the cloth. The pattern shapes tend to have soft edges due to some relative movement of the threads in weaving, and a certain amount of bleeding and capillary action in the dye process. Fabric made from ikat dyed materials See Colour discharge printing 1. In lighting, the density or flux of light on a unit area of surface. 2. A term used to describe any soft sheet net or tulle. Mainly used for veils and dresses A bright coloured, striped or checked, cotton fabric woven in Philippines. Used mainly for swimwear, active sportswear A fabric, woven in one



412 Word



IMBIBITION



IMBROCADO IMITATION MOCK GAUZE IMITATION SILK



IMMATURE FIBRE



IMMEDIATE ELASTIC DEFORMATION



IMMERSION TESTING



Category Short description Description piece but appearing to one piece but be composed of a appearing to be series of different composed of a series of different strips joined by gold and silk galloon. It is strips joined by actually a fabric woven gold and silk with various coloured galloon. and patterned stripes, sepa-rated by gold stripes. fabrics A measure of a A measure of a textile textile material’s material’s ability to ability to hold hold liquid. liquid. fabrics A silver or gold A silver or gold trimming fabric. trimming fabric. fabrics See Perforated See Perforated weave. weave. A term occasionally fibers, A term filaments, occasionally used used in the past for mercerised cotton yarn yarns in the past for mercerised cotton and rayon. Trade and governmental yarn and rayon. regulations classify this term as a misnomer. fibers, See under Cotton See under Cotton filaments, maturity maturity yarns general Recoverable Recoverable deformation deformation which is essentially independent of time, that is, occurring in (a time approaching) zero time and recoverable (a time approaching) zero time after removal of the applied force. See also Delayed deformation. A measure of the processes, A measure of the properties of fibres, operations properties of yarns or fabrics when fibres, yarns or saturated with a liquid. fabrics when saturated with a The test is performed with the sample liquid.



413 Word



Category Short description



IMMUNIZED COTTON



fibers, filaments, yarns



IMPACT RESISTANCE



general



IMPACT TEXTURING IMPERFECT SELVEDGES



IMPERIAL CLOTH



Cotton that has been treated to resist ordinary cotton-dyes; the chemical structure has been converted into an ester of cellulose.



Description immersed in the liquid. Cotton that has been treated to resist ordinary cotton-dyes; the chemical structure has been converted into an ester of cellulose. Acetic anhydride is one of the principal agents employed in the treatment. Immunized cotton responds to dyes suitable for acetate rayon. The resistance to fracture under the sudden application of an external force.



The resistance to fracture under the sudden application of an external force. processes, See under See under Texturing. operations Texturing. defects Fabric defect. Fabric defect. These include Blaky selvedge, Beaded selvedge, Broken selvedge, Corded selvedge, Curled selvedge, Cut selvedge, Damaged selvedge, Dog-legged selvedge, Doubled selvedge, Drawn selvedge, Folded selvedge, Looped selvedge, Loose edge, Rolled selvedge, Scalloped selvedge, Slack selvedge, Tight selvedge, Torn selvedge, etc. fabrics Coating fabric of Coating fabric of fine fine worsted in twill worsted in twill weave. weave. Imperial serge is similar, but softer and looser woven. Both are firm, durable clothes, usually dyed navy



414 Word



Category Short description



IMPERIAL SATEEN



fabrics



A heavily wefted fabric



IMPREGNATED FABRIC



fabrics



A fabric in which the interstices between the yarns are completely filled with the impregnating compound



IMPREGNATED YARN



IMPREGNATION



IMPRESSION



IMPRESSION MARK



fibers, A yarn in which the filaments, interstices are yarns filled with an impregnating compound. processes, The process of operations treating a fabric with a functional compound. processes, Surface operations unevenness developed during pressing



defects



Description blue, and used for coats, capes, and if show-erproofed for raincoats. A heavily wefted fabric based on an eight-end sateen weave with one or more extra risers added. The weft face may be smooth or raised. See also Beaverteen and Fustian. A fabric in which the interstices between the yarns are completely filled with the impregnating compound throughout the thickness of the material, as distinguished from sized or coated materials, where these interstices are not completely filled. A fabric woven from impregnated yarns, but not impregnated after weaving, is not an impregnated fabric. A yarn in which the interstices are filled with an impregnating compound. The process of treating a fabric with a functional compound.



Surface unevenness developed during pressing, usually around areas of extra thickness, such as pockets and seams See Emboss mark. See Emboss mark.



415 Word IN THE GRAY IN THE GREASE



IN THE GUM



INCHES PER RACK



INDANTHRENE



INDIA BLANKET



INDIA CHINTZ



INDIA PRINT



Category Short description Description fabrics See Grey. See Grey. fibers, Wool as it is shorn Wool as it is shorn from the sheep; filaments, from the sheep; contains grease and yarns contains grease other impurities. and other impurities. fibers, A natural, raw silk A natural, raw silk filaments, which is stiff and dull yarns before the gum covering is removed by degumming. general Also called IPR. In Also called IPR. In warp knitting, the warp knitting, the length of fabric in length of fabric in one rack measured on the one rack machine under measured on the operating take-up machine under operating take-up tension. The phrase ‘inches per rack’ is tension. recommended for use in place of the word ‘quality’, previously used for this concept. ³ An original vat An original vat dye; dye; identified by identified by high high colourfastness. colourfastness. All-wool, or woollen garments, All-wool, or filling blankets woven made-ups, woollen filling with characteristic assemblies blankets woven American Indian with characteristic American Indian designs. The genuine Indian handmade designs blanket is more of a rug than a blanket. Today most Indian blankets are power loom woven. fabrics A heavy, strong A heavy, strong chintz chintz with large with large patterns patterns used for used for upholstery. upholstery. Cotton fabric printed fabrics Cotton fabric printed with the with the characteristic native patterns in form characteristic native patterns in and content, usually hand blocked in form and content



416 Word



INDIA TAPE



INDIAN ABUTILON



Category Short description



accessories



fibers, A fine lustrous filaments, white fibre, yielded yarns from Abutilon graveolens, found in South Asia and India, where it is abundant.



INDIAN COTTON



fibers, filaments, yarns



INDIAN CRÊPE



fabrics



INDIAN DHURRIE INDIAN EMBROIDERY



INDIAN SILK



A plain weave, narrow fabric, made from cotton



A type of cotton fibre.



Description glowing oriental colours. A plain weave, narrow fabric, made from cotton using plied yarn as warp and single yarn in double pick weft. A fine lustrous white fibre, yielded from Abutilon graveolens, found in South Asia and India, where it is abundant. Not used commercially, but considered to have a potential as a textile material. A type of cotton fibre. Average fibre length 15-20 mm.; usually used only for coarse counts. A cotton crêpe of rough unfinished appearance, used for blouses, men’s shirts.



A cotton crêpe of rough unfinished appearance, used for blouses, men’s shirts. fabrics Se Dhurrie Se Dhurrie processes, Needlework done Needlework done by operations by natives of India natives of India in in characteristic characteristic oriental oriental design. design. Cloth embroidery, chainstitch embroidery, quilting and cashmere work are included in this type of needlework. fabrics Hand-loomed silk Hand-loomed silk fabric, not fabric, not necessarily necessarily always always made in India. made in India. Has a slightly wrinkled impressed appearance, but it is crisp. Made in plain colors. Used for saris,



417 Word



Category Short description



INDIGO



³



Originally a natural dyestuff extracted from the stems and leaves of Indigofera tinctoria and Indigofera anil and woad plants.



INDIGOTIN



³



The basic colouring substance of indigo.



INDIRECT WARPING



processes, operations



The transference of yarn from a package creel



INDIRECT YARN NUMBERING fibers, SYSTEM filaments, yarns



INDUSTRIAL CONSUMER



general



INDUSTRIAL NYLON



fabrics



A system that expresses yarn number in length per unit mass or the reciprocal of linear density. See under Consumer Heavy-duty plainweave nylon fabric made in a limited range of colors



Description evening wear and some furnishing items such as cushion covers. Originally a natural dyestuff extracted from the stems and leaves of Indigofera tinctoria and Indigofera anil and woad plants. A fast, blue colour dye, it was used for dyeing of cotton, wool and silk. Development of synthetic indigo from coal tar products and other hydrocarbon sources has made the use of natural indigo almost obsolete. Vat dyes in big volume go into the dyeing of blue denim for work cloths. See also Vat dyes. The basic colouring substance of indigo. Synthetic or artificial indigo is almost pure indigotin. The transference of yarn from a package creel onto a swift from which it is subsequently wound onto a beam. A system that expresses yarn number in length per unit mass or the reciprocal of linear density. See under Consumer Heavy-duty plainweave nylon fabric made in a limited range of colors. Is fairly stiff and does not



418 Word



Category Short description



INDUSTRIAL TEXTILES



fabrics



Textile materials and products intended for enduses



INDUSTRIAL WIPING CLOTH



fabrics



An absorbent fabric



INDUSTRIAL YARN



fibers, filaments, yarns



A yarn composed of continuous filaments, usually of high breaking tenacity



Description crease. Used for overalls and protective clothing, but is also useful for the bags of men’s trouser pockets, as it is extremely hardwearing. 1. Textile materials and products intended for end-uses other than clothing, household, furnishing and floor covering, where the fabric or fibrous component is selected principally (but not exclu-sively) for its performance and properties as opposed to its aesthetic or decorative characteristics. 2. A category of technical textiles used either as part of an industrial process, or incorporated into final products. An absorbent fabric made for use in cleaning machinery or for other industrial and commercial use. A yarn composed of continuous filaments, usually of high breaking tenacity, produced with or without twist, and intended for applications in which functional properties are of primary importance; for example in reinforcing material in elastomeric products (tyres, hose, belting), in protective



419 Word



Category Short description



INDUSTRY PRODUCTS



garments, Products such as made-ups, furniture, pillows, assemblies comforters, sleeping bags, and wearing apparel



INFLAMMABLE TEXTLE



general



INFORMATIVE LABEL



general



Use preferred term Flammable textile. Factual information about the goods or garment



INFRARED RADIATION



general



Radiant energy



INGRAIN CARPET



garments, made-ups, assemblies



A reversible coarse carpeting woven on a jacquard loom accommodating up to six coloured weft threads.



INGRAIN DYE



³



A colourant, which is formed, in situ, in the substrate by the development and coupling of one or more intermediate compounds.



Description coverings, and in cordage and webbing etc Products such as furniture, pillows, comforters, sleeping bags, and wearing apparel which are wholly or partially filled with feathers or down intended for use in the manufacture of such prod-ucts. Use preferred term Flammable textile. Factual information about the goods or garment (such as fibre content, construction, performance and care) presented to the buyer on hang-tag or woven or printed label. Radiant energy for which the wavelengths of the monochromatic components are greater than those for visible radiation and less than about 1 mm. A reversible coarse carpeting woven on a jacquard loom accommodating up to six coloured weft threads. It may be twoply Kidderminister carpet or three-ply Scotch carpet.. A colourant, which is formed, in situ, in the substrate by the development and coupling of one or more intermediate compounds. The term was originally used for colorants obtained



420 Word



Category Short description



INGRAIN YARN



fibers, filaments, yarns



Yarn, spun from a mixture of fibres of different colours



INHERENT FLAMERESISTANCE



general



Flame resistance that derives from an essential characteristic of the fibre



INHERENTLY FLAMERESISTANT



fibers, filaments, yarns



INHIBITOR



³



Description from oxidation bases and by azoic techniques, but is now reserved for other types of colorant formed in situ, e.g. Ingrain dyes bearing the Alcian and Phthalogen trade marks. These are limited ranges noted for particularly for their unique turquoise colour, provided by the remarkably stable copper phthlocyanine chromophore. See Onium dye. 1. Yarn, spun from a mixture of fibres of different colours, where the mixing of coloured fibres is carried out at an early stage. See also Colour terms and Worsted. 2. Filament yarn, composed of filaments of different colours, the ingrain effect being produced by the random exposure of the differently coloured filaments at the yarn surface. Flame resistance that derives from an essential characteristic of the fibre from which the textile is made. (Compare Flame resistance.) Fibre inherently having the property of flameresistance.



Fibre inherently having the property of flameresistance. Usually refers to Usually refers to chemical agent chemical agent applied



421 Word



INKING



INKLE INKLE LOOM



Category Short description applied to fabric, especially of acetate, to inhibit gas fading. processes, A process of operations dyeing or touching up spots in a fabric



accessories



An old term for narrow fabric. apparatus, A simple form of equipage, narrow hand loom. tools



INLAY



garments, made-ups, assemblies



An extra seam allowance inside the garment



INLAY PRINTING



processes, operations



Embossing and printing are combined in this process.



INORGANIC FIBRE



fibers, filaments, yarns



Fibre spun from inorganic material,



INSECT RESISTANCE



general



INSECT SCREENING



fabrics



The capability to impede damage by insects. A woven netting fabric of coated



Description to fabric, especially of acetate, to inhibit gas fading. A process of dyeing or touching up spots in a fabric which otherwise would be a defect. See Speck dyeing. An old term for narrow fabric. A simple form of narrow hand loom. It consists of a frame with pegs which hold a characteristically narrow continuous warp, a simple device for making two sheds, and an adjustable peg to control warp tension. An extra seam allowance inside the garment, for letting out if required, or for strength at a given position. Embossing and printing are combined in this process. The embossed fabric is printed in the depressions in the fabric. Also see Embo printing Fibre spun from inorganic material, e.g. Aluminium silicate is an inorganic material and fibres spun from it are inorganic fibres The capability to impede damage by insects. A woven netting fabric of coated glass yarn



422 Word



Category Short description Description glass yarn having a mesh size of 12 by 12 or greater. A seam in which a INSERTED SEAM seams, A seam in which a single or number of stitches single or number layers of fabric is of layers of fabric inserted between two is inserted others which are between two turned in. The others which are complete assembly is turned in. sewn in one operation. Layer INSERTED SELVEDGE garments, See under See under Selvedge. made-ups, Selvedge. assemblies INSERTION fabrics, Lace, embroidey Lace, embroidey or accessories or other other needlework needlework inserted and sewn between two cut edges of fabric for ornamental purposes. See also Insertion lace. INSERTION BANDED LACES accessories See under Banded See under Banded laces. laces. INSERTION BRAID accessories A piping made by A piping made by a a braiding machine braiding machine which produces a flat and tubular braid on combination. INSERTION LACE fabrics Usually narrow Usually narrow and and often with slits often with slits for for threading threading ribbon ribbon through through, but it always has two straight edges. It is inserted as decoration, and the backing fabric is usually cut away afterwards. A seam formed in INSIDE SEAM seams, A seam formed in which the completed stitches which the seam allowance is completed seam located on the interior allowance is of the object, usually located on the on the backside of the interior of the fabric. Examples of object, usually on the backside of the inside seams include



423 Word



INSIDE-LEG LENGTH



INSOLUBLE SOIL



INSOLUBLIZING



Category Short description fabric



garments, made-ups, assemblies defects



Impurity or contamination, especially carbon particles, that may become embedded in the fibres.



processes, A process referring operations to the coupling of dyes



INSPECTION



processes, operations



INSTITUTIONAL CONSUMER



general



INSTRON TENSILE TESTER



Garment-related term.



Activity such as measuring, examining, testing, gauging one or more characteristics of a product or service



Description Double-welt seam, French seam, ‘lapped seams’, ‘mock French seams’, ‘slot seams’, ‘tucked seams’, and ‘welt seams’. (Compare Outside seam.) Garment-related term. See under Garment sizing system. Impurity or contamination, especially carbon particles, that may become embedded in the fibres. Such impurities are almost impossible to remove in dry cleaning. See also Solvent insoluble soil. A process referring to the coupling of dyes, e.g. mordant, to make man-made fibres resistant to or insoluble to leaching. Activity such as measuring, examining, testing, gauging one or more characteristics of a product or service and comparing these with specified requirements to determine conformity. See under Consumer.



See under Consumer. An electronic testing apparatus, An electronic equipage, testing equipment equipment for a broad range of materials tools for a broad range of materials under under varied testing conditions. It is used to varied testing measure and chart conditions. load elongation properties of fibres, yarns, fabrics,



424 Word



INSULATING TAPE



INSULATION FINISH



INSULATION TAPE



INTAGLIO



INTANGLIO



INTARSIA



Category Short description



accessories



Description webbings, etc. It is also used to measure compression and tearresistance. A narrow fabric used in the manufacture of electrical equipment.



A narrow fabric used in the manufacture of electrical equipment. Curtain and lining processes, Curtain and lining operations fabrics can have fabrics can have fine metallic powder fine metallic powder bonded to bonded to the surface. In the summer, heat the surface. from the sun is reflected away from the room or body; in the winter loss of heat to the outside is prevented fabrics A woven fabric, A woven fabric, impregnated with a impregnated with a non-conducting non-conducting adhesive adhesive, which is then cut into strips. In printing, a design or apparatus, In printing, a equipage, design or line cut line cut into a surface tools into a surface of of printing cylinder so printing cylinder as to form a hollow or indent. apparatus, Engraving in which 1. Engraving in which design to be printed is design to be equipage, cut below surface of printed is cut tools, printing cylinder. below surface of fabrics 2. Also prints made printing cylinder. from such rolls. fabrics, A knitted fabric in 1. A knitted fabric in which there are solid accessories which there are areas of colour solid areas of patterning. The colour patterning. characteristic of such ar-eas is that they consist only of the yarn forming them; no other colored yarn passes either through them or behind them. Joins between the areas of



425 Word



Category Short description



INTEGRAL GARMENT



garments, All knitted made-ups, garments are assemblies classified into four classes according to general production methods; Fully cut, Stitch shaped cut, Fully fashioned and Integral.



Description color are formed either by entwining the sinker loops of adjacent areas or by plating adjacent area loops. 2. A motif design in stitch and/or colour. All knitted garments are classified into four classes according to general production methods; Fully cut, Stitch shaped cut, Fully fashioned and Integral. Integral garments (also known as ‘Integrally knitted garments’) is weft knitted garments, so con-structed, that they require little or no cutting, and little or no seaming operations to finish them. Integrally knitted garments are those that are essentially knitted in one piece with little or no seam. The archetypal example is the beret, which is knitted sequentially in a series of triangles, leaving the beginning and the end to be joined into a three dimensional shape. This principle has also been used to make skirts and jumpers and is used to produce a large proportion of ladies and gents millinery. Another integral garment using a combination of tubular knitting and shaping is the men’s sock or half



426 Word



Category Short description



Description hose. To shape the heel and toe of a sock, pouches are formed from extra rows of knitting. The third common type of integral garment consists principally of joined tubes - the glove. Tubes are constructed for each of the digits, sometimes with shaped tips, and merge together into the palm portion, (also a tube). With some latest model machines, it is now possible to knit such gloves, fully automatically with no subsequent making up procedures. The general production sequence of integral garment (e.g. Half hose) is: Knit half hose Seam toes Wet finish, scour, dye Examine and mend Finish press Developmental work is fast progressing on integral garment manufacturing of upper body outerwear apparels too. The main advantages of integral concepts are savings in both raw material and labour costs at the expense of lower machine output. The electronic V-bed knitting machines in



427 Word



Category Short description



INTEGRAL KNITTED GARMENTS



garments, See Integral made-ups, garments assemblies general A textile mill which has a complete series of operations to produce fabric from the fibrous raw material. general In sericulture, refers to the covering of the silkworm’s body. fabrics See under Double cloth. fabrics Woven or nonwoven fabrics used to give body to certain areas of a garment.



INTEGRATED MILL



INTEGUMENT



INTERCHANGING DOUBLE CLOTH INTERFACING



Description their pres-ent state of development, with presser foot or holding sinkers, are easily capable of producing gar-ments in all the garment categories. See Integral garments



A textile mill which has a complete series of operations to produce fabric from the fibrous raw material.



In sericulture, refers to the covering of the silkworm’s body. See under Double cloth. Woven or non-woven fabrics used to give body to certain areas of a garment. It adds to the outward appearance of the garment if some areas are reinforced, e.g. collars, buttoned openings, cuffs, pocket flaps, and this structuring also makes the garment last longer. Interfacing has always been a vital and integral part of tailoring, but until comparatively recently was regarded as less important in dressmaking. Now, however, a very wide range of types and weights of interfacing is available, so it is not



428 Word



INTERLACED YARN



INTERLINING



INTERLOCK



Category Short description



Description difficult to interface correctly and improve the garment. Choice depends entirely on the fabric being sewn. In general, the interfacing used in dressmaking should be lighter and softer than the fab-ric, otherwise the interfacing will take over and make the area where it is used to appear different. See Non-woven canvas, Woven canvas, Iron-on canvas. See Intermingled See Intermingled yarn. yarn.



fibers, filaments, yarns accessories Any textile which is Any textile which is intended for intended for incorporation into incorporation into an an article of article of wearing wearing apparel apparel as a layer between an outer shell and the ordinary inner lining, for shape retention, strength, warmth or bulk. fabrics A double-faced rib- A double-faced ribbased structure based structure consisting of two consisting of two 1x1 rib fabrics joined by 1x1 rib fabrics interlocking sinker joined by interlocking sinker loops, it is made on machines equipped loops, it is made with two sets of on machines opposed needles. equipped with two sets of opposed Originally knitted from cotton and used for needles underwear, but now is knitted from various materials and used for a variety of purposes, including outerwear.



429 Word INTERLOCK GAITING INTERLOCK STITCHES



INTERMEDIATE COTTONS



INTERMEDIATES



INTERMINGLED YARN



Category Short description Description processes, See under Gating. See under Gating. operations seams, A versatile group A versatile group of stitches of stitch types stitch types forming flat forming flat seams. seams. Two to four needle thread chain stitching in a parallel formation is joined together on one side of the fabric by interlooping with a single thread. The other side of the stitching may also be joined by one or more threads known as covering threads. The classification of such seams is confused, in that they fall into two groups within the BS/ISO system. Same as Multithread chain stitches, Covering stitches. An intermediate fibers, An intermediate filaments, classification for classification for cotton staple between short yarns cotton staple and long staple between short and (actually overlapped long staple by both). Staple (actually lengths of overlapped by intermediates range both). from 1.27 to 3.33 cm. fibers, See Yarn See Yarn filaments, intermediates. intermediates. yarns Sometimes called fibers, Sometimes called Interlaced yarn. A filaments, Interlaced yarn. A yarns multifilament yarn multifilament yarn in which cohesion is in which cohesion imparted to the is imparted to the filament bundle by filament bundle by entwining the filaments entwining the instead of or in filaments instead of or in addition to addition to twisting. The effect is usually twisting. achieved by passing



430 Word



Category Short description



INTERMINGLING JET



apparatus, An air-operated equipage, device used as an tools ancillary to some processes of yarn extrusion, of drawing and of texturing



INTERNATIONAL FIBRE DESCRIPTION



fibers, See Table: filaments, ‘International fabric yarns description’. general To simplify international cooperation in all sectors of industry and commerce, the SI unit system (SI = Systeme International d’ Unites) was established.



INTERNATIONAL UNIT SYSTEM (SI)



Description the yarn under light tension through the turbulent zone of an air-jet. Intermingling should be distinguished from air-texturing in which a much higher level of entangle-ment is achieved with the objective of producing texture or bulk. An air-operated device used as an ancillary to some processes of yarn extrusion, of drawing and of texturing to induce intermingling of filaments and hence yarn coherence. See also Intermingled yarn See Table: ‘International fabric description’. To simplify international cooperation in all sectors of industry and commerce, the SI unit system (SI = Systeme International d’ Unites) was established. The SI is a rationalized selection of units in the metric system which individually are not new and all other units are derived from them. Few changes were necessary for countries that use the metric system, nevertheless some changes were necessary to comply to the international agreed usage of SI.



431 Word



Category Short description



INTERNATIONALGREYSCALE apparatus, equipage, tools



INTERWEOVEN YARN



INTIMATE BLEND



INTRINSIC CLO INTURNED WELT



INVISIBLE WASTE



INVOICE MASS



Description The international system is based on 7 base units. All other units are derived from these units. Conversion factors are 1 or decimal multiples and sub-multiples of 10. A system of prefixes denoting decimal multiples and sub-multiples of the base units has been established. See Tables: ‘International unit system (SI) Base units and Derived units’, and ‘Table of SI units used in the textile industry’ A comparative A comparative standard) scale standard) scale used used to rate to rate degrees of degrees of colour colour fading from 5 (negligible or nochange) to 1 (severe change). Same as Same as Interlaced Interlaced yarn yarn



fibers, filaments, yarns processes, Combining two or operations more different fibre types



Combining two or more different fibre types into a uniform mixture before the single yarn is spun. See Clo. See under Welt.



general See Clo. garments, See under Welt. made-ups, assemblies general Weight loss due to Weight loss due to dust, moisture, loose dust, moisture, fibres, etc., carried loose fibres, etc., away by the air. carried away by the air. general The mass, The mass, however however determined, of a determined, of a consignment of a



432 Word



INWROUGHT



IONOMER



IPR IRIDESCENT EFFECT IRIDESCENT FABRIC



IRISH FINISH



IRISH LACE



IRISH LAWN



IRISH LINEN



Category Short description Description consignment of a textile material, which textile material is declared on the invoice. It is usually numerically equivalent to the commercial mass A decoration, design fabrics A decoration, design or pattern or pattern worked into a fabric so as to be a worked into a fabric so as to be a part of the cloth, e.g. Tapestry, Brocade, part of the cloth Damask, Brocatelle. general A polymer A polymer characterized by characterized by covalent bonds covalent bonds between the constituents of the long chain molecules and ionic bonds between the chains. general See Inches per See Inches per rack rack fabrics See Inches per See Inches per rack rack fabrics A fabric with A fabric with changeable colour changeable colour or or shot effects. shot effects. May be the result of dye, finish or weave. fabrics A finish given to A finish given to cotton cotton fabric to fabric to imitate linen. imitate linen. fabrics Term to describe a Term to describe a heavy crochet lace heavy crochet lace with looped edges. with looped edges. Made in Ireland; Carrickmacross and Limerick are two places of origin. See also Limerick lace. fabrics A lawn fabric A lawn fabric produced produced from fine from fine linen yarns. linen yarns. fibers, YARN. 100 % flax 1. YARN. 100 % flax filaments, yarn spun in yarn spun in Ireland. yarns, Ireland 2. FABRIC. Fine fabrics quality linen fabric



433 Word



Category Short description



IRISH POPLIN



fabrics



A poplin made from a dyed pure silk organzine warp and a threefold genapped fine worsted weft.



IRISH TWEED



fabrics



IRON LIQUOR



³



IRON YARN



fibers, filaments, yarns



White warp and dark shade weft of blue, grey, brown, or black feature this popular, rugged menswear fabric See Acetate of iron. A smooth, stiff, cotton yarn which has been starched and glazed



IRON-ON CANVAS INTERFACINGS



accessories An iron-on woven canvas does not give the shaping advantages of the sew-in varieties.



Description woven in Ireland from Irish linen yarn. Used for handkerchiefs and table linen; coarser grades used for tea towels and glass clothes. A poplin made from a dyed pure silk organzine warp and a three-fold genapped fine worsted weft. It is a silk-face and silkback fabric, the weft being completely covered by the warp. The fabric is usually hand-woven and is frequently given a moiré finish. White warp and dark shade weft of blue, grey, brown, or black feature this popular, rugged menswear fabric. Used for suiting and coating. See Acetate of iron. A smooth, stiff, cotton yarn which has been starched and glazed. Generally either white or black; mainly used for linings and hat shapes. An iron-on woven canvas does not give the shaping advantages of the sew-in varieties. However, it is quick to use and is effective on flat areas such as coat fronts, pocket flaps, hemlines (where added body is needed.), etc.



434 Word



Category Short description



IRON-ON COTTON



accessories Soft cotton fabric, almost like muslin, with adhesive granules on the wrong side



IRONING



processes, operations



A method of pressing using a heated hand iron



IRONING + PRESSING OF TEXTILE



processes, A process carried operations out on a textile article to restore its shape and appearance



IRONPROOFING



processes, A treatment with operations caustic soda given to certain acetate fabrics.



IRREGULAR SATIN WEAVE



fabrics



A variation of the satin weave



Description Selection to be according to the weight of fabric being used: 1. A thick, soft canvas made from a mixture of linen and cotton 2. A very soft cotton canvas that would be suitable for the lightweight clothes used for women’s coats and jackets. Soft cotton fabric, almost like muslin, with adhesive granules on the wrong side. It would add slight stiffness to soft fabrics. Not cheap. A method of pressing using a heated hand iron, sometimes together with moisture or steam, and a gliding motion. See also Pressing. A process carried out on a textile article to restore its shape and appearance, by means of an appro-priate appliance using heat and pressure A treatment with caustic soda given to certain acetate fabrics. By saponifying the surface of the cloth, the material becomes more resistant to damage from high temperatures of pressing irons. See Saponification. A variation of the satin weave in which the interlacings are not on



435 Word



IRREGULARS



Category Short description



defects



Any article such as hosiery, sheets, and towels, which contains slight imperfections



IRRIGATED COTTON



fibers, Cotton produced in filaments, the arid areas by yarns irrigation.



ISLANDS IN THE SEA



fibers, filaments, yarns seams, stitches



ITALIAN HEMSTITCHING



ITALIAN SILK



fibers, filaments, yarns



Description the regular arrangement of the normal satin weave Any article such as hosiery, sheets, and towels, which contains slight imperfections that prevent it from being classed as first quality. Cotton produced in the arid areas by irrigation. The physical properties are different from rain grown cottons of the same variety, which may affect dyeing properties. See under Bicomponent fibres.



See under Bicomponent fibres. A drawn fabric 1. A drawn fabric stitch stitch worked with worked with alternating alternating vertical vertical and horizontal and horizontal stitches. A line is stitches. formed similar to the blanketstitch, but with openwork effect. May be used like machine hemstitching to finish seams on sheer cloths to give a flat, strong, decorative effect. 2.A stitch used for embroidering linen or other fabrics with counted threads for making lines or for filling. Raw silk of good Raw silk of good grade grade. It is strong, elastic, easily processed and has no imperfections. The boiled-off percentage is high. Used for dresses, knit goods,



436 Word



ITARSI ITARSI



Category Short description



fibers, filaments, yarns



A term used for Sunn.



Description high quality hosiery, underwear and tricot. A term used for Sunn.



J Word J-BOX



J-CUT



J-SCRAY



JACKET



JACONET



JACQMAR



Category apparatus, equipage, tools



Short description Description A large J-shaped vessel or A large J-shaped vessel or structure used for the structure used for the continuous steaming or continuous steaming or wet wet processing of textiles. processing of textiles. The material enters the top of the long limb of the J, is stored for a time, and withdrawn through the short limb. defects Uneven cutting of the pile Uneven cutting of the pile loops in tufted carpets loops in tufted carpets caused by poor adjustment of knives and hooks or excessive tension. A J-shaped trough or vessel apparatus, A J-shaped trough or equipage, vessel for the processing for the processing of textiles from one process to another. tools of textiles from one The long limb of the J forms process to another. an inclined plane on which the material accumulates during the dwell period. garments, A textile product, woven or A textile product, woven or made-ups, felted into tubular or felted into tubular or sleeve assemblies sleeve form form, ready for covering and shrinking on a machine roll. Thin, plain-weave cotton fabrics Thin, plain-weave cotton fabric, heavier than cambric fabric, heavier than but similar in type, it is cambric but similar in type, glazed on the right side to it is glazed on the right produce a high luster. Can side to produce a high be plain or have a stripe or luster check pattern. May now contain a proportion of polyester fibre. Used for men’s shirts, children’s clothes and pajamas. fabrics A very sheer, fine worsted A very sheer, fine worsted



437 Word



Category



Short description fabric.



JACQUARD



fabrics



The name is associated with the production of elaborate figured design fabrics with complex patterns and large repeats containing hundreds or even thousands of different interlacings.



JACQUARD CARD



apparatus, equipage, tools



A punched card used to control a jacquard mechanism



JACQUARD DRILL



fabrics



JACQUARD KNIT



fabrics



A heavy drill fabric made with contrasting colours in warp and filling. Sectional patterns or allover design patterns in colour and texture produced on knitting machines.



Description fabric. Draping quality similar to silk. The name is associated with the production of elaborate figured design fabrics with complex patterns and large repeats containing hundreds or even thousands of different interlacings. Jacquard weaving is an intricate method which uses a patterning mechanism which gives individual control of up to several hundred warp threads on the loom using punched cards to control the movement of individual groups of warp ends. Jacquards are made from almost any fibre and both self-colour and multi-colour designs are popular. Fabrics fray readily, more so if made from silk or other slippery fibres. As Jacquard refers to the weave, all fabrics should have some other notation, e.g. Cotton jacquard, Silk jacquard, etc A punched card used to control a jacquard mechanism. A series of such cards strung together control the production of the required pattern. In many applications jacquards are now controlled by endless paper or an electronic store instead of cards A heavy drill fabric made with contrasting colours in warp and filling. Sectional patterns or all-over design patterns in colour and texture produced on knitting machines.



438 Word JACQUARD LOOM



Category apparatus, equipage, tools



JACQUARD MECHANISM



apparatus, equipage, tools



Short description A typical Jacquard machine would have a number of ‘hooks’ arranged in rows.



Description Named after its inventor Joseph Jacquard; at the time of its introduction it was almost a revolution in the weaving industry, as it was a loom with tremendously improved figuring capacity. A typical Jacquard machine would have a number of ‘hooks’ arranged in rows. This give individual control of a number of warp yarns in a repeat and they can be lifted in any required sequence of in-terlacings. The interlacings are produced by using punched cards, one card for each weft yarn in-serted, and these cards are laced together in a continuous loop. The cards punched in a separate ma-chine in accordance with the interlacings of the design. Larger machines, or a number of machines linked together on the same loom, can extend the available number of interlacings into thousands. The selection and control of machine movements by the use of a continuous pattern chain of some kind has led to the use of the name Jacquard in other forms of fabric production, such as knitting and embroidery. Magnetic tapes, micro chips and other electronic forms of control represent the updating of this remarkable invention. IN WEAVING. A shedding 1. IN WEAVING. A shedding mechanism, attached to a mechanism, attached to a loom loom, that gives individual control of upto several hundred warp threads and thus enables large figured



439 Word



Category



JACQUARD WEAVE



fabrics



JAFFER



fabrics



JAGO JAIPUR PRINT JAMAICA



JAMAVAR



fabrics fabrics fibers, filaments, yarns fabrics



JAMDANEE



fabrics



JAMKALAM



fabrics



JAMMED



fabrics



JANDARI JANUS CLOTH



fabrics fabrics



Short description



Description designs to be produced. 2. IN KNITTING. A term in general use in knitting industry, applied to mechanisms for the selection of knitting elements. Elaborate figured weave Elaborate figured weave produced on the Jacquard produced on the Jacquard loom. loom. The weave find usage mainly in fabrics like brocades, tapestries, damasks and A plain weave cotton A plain weave cotton fabric fabric with warp and weft in different colours producing a shot effect. A type of linen fabric A type of linen fabric See Jeypore print See Jeypore print A type of raw cotton from A type of raw cotton from the the West Indies West Indies A plain or twill weave cashmere wool fabric made in Kashmir.



An Indian term used to describe: 1. A plain or twill weave cashmere wool fabric made in Kashmir. b. A wide-striped, coarse woollen shawl made chiefly in Punjab, India A group of costly, fine A group of costly, fine cotton cotton muslins in muslins in elaborate woven elaborate woven designs designs, which were made on handlooms in Dacca, Bangladesh. The modern counterpart is called Jandari A coarse cotton rug A coarse cotton rug without without pile, made of pile, made of native cotton in native cotton in India. India. A fabric in which the ends A fabric in which the ends are jammed so closely are jammed so closely together that no more together that no more could could be fitted in be fitted in; a jammed fabric is usually very stiff. See Jamdanee See Jamdanee A double-faced worsted A double-faced worsted fabric with a different fabric with a different colour colour on each side. on each side.



440 Word JAP SILK



Category fabrics



Short description Also called China Silk.



JAPONAIS



fabrics



A very light weight silk poplin from several qualities of gray yarns



JAPPE



fabrics



A fine plain weave fabric woven from continuous filament yarns



JASPÈ



fabrics



Also called Jasper.



JASPÈ CARPET



garments, made-ups, assemblies



Carpet having a flame-like regular pattern



JASPÈ YARN



fibers, filaments, yarns



A filament yarn that has the appearance of being, but is not, made of two differently coloured yarns folded together.



Description Also called China Silk. Thin, almost papery silk fabric, in plain weave and in plain colors, made in Northern China. Very light and slippery. Used mainly for lining lightweight garments. Do not find much use in outer clothes, due to its insufficient weight and durability. A very light weight silk poplin from several qualities of gray yarns. Used for summer dresses, underwear, etc. See Helvetia. A fine plain weave fabric woven from continuous filament yarns, originally silk, and of approximately square construction Also called Jasper. Hardwearing fabric having a shaded appearance created by a warp thread jaspè yarn colour pattern. Made of either multicolored threads or different shades of one color. Small matching dots are sometimes woven into the fabric. Used for curtains, chaircovers, bedspreads. Carpet having a flame-like regular pattern. It was traditionally produced by using pile yarn dip-dyed in hanks to two tones of the same colour or two different colours, in a fixed proportion of the lengths of the hanks in any one lot. A filament yarn that has the appearance of being, but is not, made of two differently coloured yarns folded together. It is made by texturing together two continuous filament yarns or



441 Word



Category



Short description



JASPER JAVA



fabrics fabrics



See Jaspè. A cotton fabric with red, yellow and white stripes on red ground.



JEAN



fabrics



Very hardwearing cotton fabric, similar to denimdrill, but usually softer, lighter and finer to handle



JEANETTE



fabrics



Lighter weight jean fabrics are sometimes called jeanette



JEDIM JENKINS



fabrics fibers, filaments, yarns



See Dsedim. A commercial variety of early maturing, prolific American cotton



JERK-BACK JERK-IN



defects defects



See Jerk-in. Also called Lash-in, Jerkback, Pull-in. Fabric defect.



Description different chemical composition, e.g. nylon and polyester, and them dyeing only one of the two components. See Jaspè. A cotton fabric with red, yellow and white stripes on red ground. Used mainly by the native women I East Africa Very hardwearing cotton fabric, similar to denim-drill, but usually softer, lighter and finer to handle. Woven in 2/1 twill with a warp face (see below) showing a fairly steep twill, the warp being more closely set than the weft Made in plain colors only, sometimes in herringbone weave. Originally made for protective clothing and lining, but now widely adapted for leisurewear also in a wide range of colors. Used for overalls, dungarees, children’s clothes, etc Lighter weight jean fabrics are sometimes called jeanette. These are mostly used for linings. See Dsedim. A commercial variety of early maturing, prolific American cotton with staple approximately 2.22 to 2.54 cm long. See Jerk-in. Also called Lash-in, Jerkback, Pull-in. Fabric defect. It is caused by an extra weft yarn being jerked by the shuttle and dragged into the shed with the regular pick part way into the fabric, i.e. extending only part of the



442 Word



Category



Short description



JERSEY



fabrics



A generic term applied to describe warp or weft knitted piece goods, usually stocking stitch, made from any fibre, including cotton, wool, silk, nylon acetate, triacetate, polyester, acrylic, modal. It has ‘give’ and elasticity and is comfortable to wear.



Description way across the cloth. The defect will appear at the selvage. Depending on how close the patterns are cut to the selvedge will determine whether the defect is major or minor. (Compare Double pick.) A generic term applied to describe warp or weft knitted piece goods, usually stocking stitch, made from any fibre, including cotton, wool, silk, nylon acetate, triacetate, polyester, acrylic, modal. It has ‘give’ and elasticity and is comfortable to wear. This term has not, as yet, been precisely defined and can quite literally be applied to almost any kind of knitted fabric. However, in general, the terms ‘single jersey’, and ‘double jersey’ are commonly used. Single jersey: Refers to a plain or modified plain knitted fabric (usually weft knitted) used as piece goods, made in a machine having one set of needles. In consequence the fabric is simple in structure and therefore not very stable. Bonding techniques are used as a means of adding stability to single jersey. Used as piece goods. Being simple in structure single jersey is cheaply and quickly made. Double jersey: Is taken to mean a fabric knitted on a machine with two sets of needles and the fab-ric can be knitted on a machine with two sets of needles and the fabric can be knitted on the inter-lock principle and patterns can be formed by



443 Word



Category



Short description



JERSEY GABARDINE



fabrics



Although Gabardine is strictly speaking a woven cloth, many of the old terms have to be used to de-scribe new-effect fabrics



JERSEY VELOUR



fabrics



Plush surfaced, knit fabric with attractive velvety appearance. At the back it is a smooth knit fairly stable fabric, while the pile on the right side is short and soft



JET



JET LOOM



JET PRINTING



garments, A narrow strip of fabric, made-ups, usually cut warpwise, assemblies sewn parallel to the pocket opening and turned over the pocket mouth edge apparatus, A shuttleless loom equipage, tools



processes, operations



See Polychromatic printing.



Description interchanging yarns between face and back needles. Rib weft knitted fabric or modified rib weft knitted fabric, used as piece goods. These fabrics are more stable than single jersey because yarns are not required to show on the face are knitted into the back thus avoiding long floats and loose structurre. They are slower to make and more expensive than single jersey fabrics. Although Gabardine is strictly speaking a woven cloth, many of the old terms have to be used to de-scribe neweffect fabrics. Jersey gabardine is a twill-effect closely knitted polyester. It is usually in plain colors. Used for trousers, jackets, etc. Plush surfaced, knit fabric with attractive velvety appearance. At the back it is a smooth knit fairly stable fabric, while the pile on the right side is short and soft. Fibre used is polyester with viscose pile. Made in attractive plain colours. Used for soft dresses, blouses tops, jump suits, T-shirts, etc. See Pile knit. A narrow strip of fabric, usually cut warpwise, sewn parallel to the pocket opening and turned over the pocket mouth edge A shuttleless loom that carries the weft yarns through the shed by the use of a water jet. See also Shuttleless loomS See Polychromatic printing.



444 Word JET SPINNING JET-DYEING MACHINE



JETTED POCKET JETTING



JEYPORE PRINT JIG



JIGGER



JIGGER STENTER



Category processes, operations apparatus, equipage, tools



garments, made-ups, assemblies garments, made-ups, assemblies fabrics apparatus, equipage, tools



Short description See Air-jet spinning.



Description See Air-jet spinning.



A machine for dyeing fabric in rope form



1. A machine for dyeing fabric in rope form in which the fabric is carried through a narrow throat by dye-liquor circulated at high velocity. 2. A machine for dyeing garments in which garments are circulated by jets of liquid rather than by mechanical means. A pocket-mouth on which A pocket-mouth on which the the edges are finished by edges are finished by the the application of jettings. application of jettings. Se Jet. Se Jet.



See Jaipur print Also called Jigger.



See Jaipur print



Also called Jigger. A machine in which fabric in open width is transferred repeatedly back and forth from one roller to another and passes each time through the relatively small volume of a dyebath or other liquid. Jigs are usually used for dyeing, scouring, bleaching and finishing. A style of lady’s short, 1. A style of lady’s short, garments, loose jacket. loose jacket. made-ups, 2. The button on the inside of assemblies, a double-breasted coat apparatus, (usually sewn with a long equipage, shank). tools 3. See Jig. A stenter in which a to-andapparatus, A stenter in which a toequipage, and-fro longitudinal motion fro longitudinal motion can be given to the side frame tools can be given to the side carrying the clip chain while frame carrying the clip chain while the fabric is the fabric is moved forward. The two side frames are moved forward. linked, one moving forward while the other moves back and vice versa to impart a



445 Word



Category



Short description



JOB FINISHER JOCKEY CLOTH



general fabrics



See Commision finisher A high-grade weft-faced fabric made with two ply silk in the warp and single botany wool weft, in a two up, one down twill weave.



JOCKEY SATIN JOINING LINE JOSEPHINE TRICOT



fabrics



See Slipper satin.



general fabrics



See Seam. A very open, crochet fabric



JOUY PRINT



processes, operations



Cotton or linen fabric printed with modern reproductions of 18th century French prints.



JUGAN NATH



fabrics



A coarse longcloth made in the Kota District, India.



JUMBO CORD JUMEL COTTON



fabrics fibers, filaments, yarns



See under Corduroy. A perennial tree cotton.



JUMPER UNDERPRESS



apparatus, equipage, tools



A type of underpressing machine, which has a steam heated buck and an iron which is mounted on the end of a swinging arm (jointed or straight).



Description swinging motion to the fabric. This device is used in finishing to reduce inter yarn bonding to produce a softer fabric See Commision finisher A high-grade weft-faced fabric made with two ply silk in the warp and single botany wool weft, in a two up, one down twill weave. The weft is packed in with substantially more picks than ends. See Slipper satin. See Seam. A very open, crochet fabric consisting of tightly crocheted rows connected at intervals by double yarns Cotton or linen fabric printed with modern reproductions of 18th century French prints. Often monotone landscapes or figure groups in red or blue on light or white grounds. Also called Toile de jouy. A coarse longcloth made in the Kota District, India. Used mainly for turbans and other wearing apparel. See under Corduroy. A perennial tree cotton. The species is uncertain, with Gossypium brasilense and Gossypium vitifolium suggested. A type of underpressing machine, which has a steam heated buck and an iron which is mounted on the end of a swinging arm (jointed or straight). Pressure is applied through a linkage from a foot pedal to the movable arm and so to the iron.



446 Word JUNCO



Category fibers, filaments, yarns



Short description A fibre obtained from the shrub or small tree, Koeberlinia spinosa.



JUNGLE CLOTH



fabrics



A trade name for heavy, closely woven, cotton fabric



JUTE



fibers, filaments, yarns



Soft, but coarse hardwearing fibres from the inner bark of the round pod jute (‘Corchorus capsularis’), the long pod jute (‘Corchorus olitorius’) and from the inner bark of other closely re-lated plants, such as kenaf, sometimes referred to as ‘Meshta’ (‘Hibiscus cannabinus’).



JUTE RUG BACKING



fabrics



Plain weave jute fabric in single construction.



Description A fibre obtained from the shrub or small tree, Koeberlinia spinosa. Used mainly for hard matting, strong cordage A trade name for heavy, closely woven, cotton fabric made with more than 300 picks per inch. It possesses good wind-resistant qualities. Used mainly for winter clothes. Soft, but coarse hardwearing fibres from the inner bark of the round pod jute (‘Corchorus capsularis’), the long pod jute (‘Corchorus olitorius’) and from the inner bark of other closely re-lated plants, such as kenaf, sometimes referred to as ‘Meshta’ (‘Hibiscus cannabinus’). Jute fibre is similar in appearance to flax and hemp but is characterized by the irregularity of its lumen. Com-mercially, jute is divided into two main classes; white jute generally associated with the round pod jute and dark jute associated with the long pod jute. Jute is light brown in colour, difficult to bleach, and unlike other vegetable fibres it has a moderately good affinity for basic dyes. Not used for cloth-ing. Finds maximum use in the making of sacks and to a lesser extent in heavy textiles, upholstery. Plain weave jute fabric in single construction. Characterized by stripes in two colours with three yarns in each stripe. Used for rug backing



447 Word JUTE-SPUN



Category fibers, filaments, yarns



Short description Description Descriptive of staple yarn Descriptive of staple yarn that has been prepared that has been prepared and and spun on machinery spun on machinery originally originally designated for designated for spinning yarn spinning yarn from jute from jute



K Word KAAI FINISH



KAILI KALABATUN



KALAMKARI



KALEMKAR



KALINGS SILK



KANDAR



Category Short description Description processes, A finishing treatment A finishing treatment by which operations by which the cotton the cotton yarns are shrunk to yarns are shrunk obtain a crinkled appearance. The finish is used mainly for crepon and some other fabrics made of cotton and mohair or worsted. fabrics A British trade name A British trade name for for Loongee. Loongee. fibers, A fine gold or silver 1. A fine gold or silver thread, filaments, thread made by drawing the metal into yarns, a thin wire and winding it fabrics around a core of yarn. Used extensively of embroidering caps. 2. A cotton fabric ornamented with stripes of kalabatun gold threads fabrics An Indian cotton An Indian cotton fabric handfabric hand-woven woven from native cottons. from native cottons. These fabrics are hand printed, the design first applied with a pen. fabrics A Persian term for 1.A Persian term for various various calicoes; calicoes; the best designs are considered the floral arabesques. 2.The word also means a pen or brush picture. See Kalmkari. fibers, A variety of raw silk A variety of raw silk produced filaments, produced in China. in China. Used mainly for yarns sewing thread. processes, A trade name for a A trade name for a resin finish operations resin finish for for fabrics. This treatment fabrics. results in a crisp, texture-rich and durable to dry cleaning



448 Word



Category



KANGAROO HAIR



fibers, filaments, yarns



KAPAS



fibers, filaments, yarns fibers, filaments, yarns



KAPOK



KARAKUL



fibers, filaments, yarns



KARAKUL CLOTH KARPASI



fabrics fibers, filaments, yarns fabrics



KASHA



KASHMIR



KASURI



fibers, filaments, yarns fabrics



Short description



Description and laundering fabric. A hair obtained from A hair obtained from the the kangaroo. kangaroo. It is procured in small quantities and blended with other fibres for weaving bagging materials Indian term denoting Indian term denoting raw raw cotton that cotton that contains seeds. contains seeds. The fibre resembles The fibre resembles cotton but cotton but silkier, is silkier, is a seed fibre which is a seed fibre which is round, smooth and light. As it round, smooth and is too brittle to spin, it is only used as a bulky soft filling in light. upholstery, cushions, mattresses, toys, etc. As a filler, it has been superseded to a certain extent by the cheaper synthetic foam. Both are highly in-flammable. The long carpet The long carpet wool obtained wool obtained from from young lambs of the young lambs of the Karakul breed. Shrinkage is Karakul breed. about 35 %. See Astrakhan fur and Broadtail. See Caracul cloth See Caracul cloth Sanskrit for cotton. Sanskrit for cotton.



Fabric made from 1. Fabric made from fine wool fine wool and Tibet and Tibet goat hair. A softly goat hair. napped fabric with a crosswise streak caused by darker hairs. Used for soft jackets and dresses. 2. May also be a cotton flannel fabric, with a napped right side, slightly ècru in colour and made as sheeting. See Sheeting See Cashmere. See Cashmere.



A hand-woven, plain weave cotton fabric



A hand-woven, plain weave cotton fabric with irregular white dots on a blue ground, produced by tie-dyeing. Made



449 Word



KAZAK



KDK KEBA



KEMP



KENAF



KENTUCKY JEAN



KERNMANTEL



Category



Short description



Description in Japan it is used for school children’s clothing. garments, An important variety An important variety of wool rugs with long, soft pile, at made-ups, of wool rugs with assemblies long, soft pile, at least one end is finished with a knotted fringe. Frequently least one end is made with four picks finished with a alternating with each row of knotted fringe. knots. Geometrical designs often employ a toothed edge or primitively conventionalised trees and animals, and characteristic colours are red, green and blue. Made in small and medium sizes by the nomads in Caucasia. fabrics See Knit-deknit See Knit-deknit texturing. texturing. fibers, See Cocoon See Cocoon strippings. filaments, strippings. yarns fibers, A coarse, animal A coarse, animal fibre with a filaments, fibre with a wide wide lattice-type medulla that is yarns lattice-type medulla shed from the skin at least that is shed from the once a year. It is often shorter skin at least once a than other fibres of the fleece year. and has a long tapering tip, and when completely shed, tapers sharply towards the root end. It is often shorter than other fibres of the fleece and has a long tapering tip, and when completely shed, tapers sharply towards the root end. fibers, It is known as Mesta It is known as Mesta in India. filaments, in India. The fibre obtained from the yarns bast layer of the plant ‘Hibiscus cannabinus’. Being similar to jute in many of its properties, kenaf is used either as an alternative to, or in admixture with jute. A strong, filling-faced fabric, fabrics A strong, fillingfaced fabric, which which is made with cotton warp and wool filling. Used for is made with cotton trousers. warp and wool filling accessories A braided rope so A braided rope so constructed



450 Word



Category



KERSEY



fabrics



KETTLE



apparatus, equipage, tools fabrics



KETTLECLOTH



KEYMO FINISH



KHADDAR



KHADIE



Short description constructed as to possess high extension and energy absorption under load, used in rock climbings etc. Woollen fabric that originated in Kersey, Suffolk.



See Beck



Description as to possess high extension and energy absorption under load, used in rock climbings etc., to arrest the accidental fall of a climber with as low deceleration as possible. Woollen fabric that originated in Kersey, Suffolk. Has a lustre caused by the use of crossbred wool, and is a very heavy, thick wool coating fabric which has been fulled and also felted. Often a twill weave, although the face finish that is applied conceals this. Is a conventional cloth in appearance and not much used now except for classic overcoats, or in lighter weight for a classic black dress. May now contain some acrylic fibre. See Beck



Fairly stiff plain-weave fabric, Fairly stiff plainweave fabric, with a with a dull surface and a slight slub in the weave which may dull surface and a slight slub in the be coloured. Made from cotton weave which may and polyester yarns. Ideal for men’s light summer jackets, for be coloured. trousers for men and women, and other casual but crisp effect clothes processes, A finishing process A finishing process applied to operations applied to wool wool fabric to prevent fabric to prevent shrinkage. The treatment shrinkage. consists of running the fabric through a sulphuric acid solution. Now other types of shrinkage control have largely su-perseded it A coarse, hand-woven, low fabrics A coarse, handwoven, low grade of grade of cotton fabric made in India from native yarns. cotton fabric made in India from native yarns. fabrics An Indian cotton An Indian cotton similar to similar to khaddar khaddar but with fringed ends.



451 Word



KIBISU



Category



Short description but with fringed ends. Used for towelling. See Frisons.



Description Used for towelling.



fibers, See Frisons. filaments, yarns KICK TAPE accessories Also called Trouser Also called Trouser binding. A binding. narrow fabric, often Paris binding, used on trouser leg bottoms. KID fibers, The coat of the 1. The coat of the young deer. filaments, young deer Usually marked grey, white yarns, and black. Very soft, but fabrics hardwearing. 2. The skin of the young goat. Easy to sew. It is mainly used for gloves. Heavy varieties are used for shoes. KIDDERMINISTER garments, See under Ingrain See under Ingrain carpet. CARPET made-ups, carpet. assemblies KIER apparatus, A large metal A large metal container in equipage, container in which which yarn or cloth can be tools yarn or cloth can be boiled and bleached boiled and bleached KIER BOIL processes, Also called Kiering. Also called Kiering. The operations process of prolonged boiling of cotton or flax materials with alkaline liquors in a kier, either at or above atmospheric pressure. See also Open boil, Pressure boil. KIERING processes, See Kier boil. See Kier boil. operations A sturdy fabric in plain weave KINDERGARTEN fabrics A sturdy fabric in with yarn-dyed warp stripes. CLOTH plain weave with Two single warps are woven yarn-dyed warp as one. Used for children’s stripes. sunsuits, doll’s dresses and bunting Friction developed between KINETIC FRICTION general Friction developed between two bodies two bodies in motion. Compare Static friction. in motion. Compare Static friction. KING OF FIBRES fibers, See Cotton fibre. See Cotton fibre. filaments, yarns



452 Word KING’S CORD KINK



KINK-IN KINKING



KINKY FILLING



KINKY THREAD KISS PRINTING



KITSCH



KNABS



KNEE



KNEE GIRTH



Category fabrics defects



Short description See Corduroy. Fabric defect.



Description See Corduroy. Fabric defect. Also called Centre loop, Curl, Filling snarl, Kink-in, Kinky thread, Looped yarn, Snarl. A place in a yarn where a short length of yarn, that has spontaneously doubled back on itself to form a loop defects See Kink See Kink processes, The doubling back The doubling back of a yarn on operations of a yarn on itself to itself to relieve torque given by relieve torque given twisting or texturing. by twisting or texturing. defects Fabric defect. Fabric defect. Short weft yarn loops, caused by tension release of the weft yarn before the loom turns over for the proper timing of the opening of the shed of the warp yarns. The three actions of the loom, viz. shedding, picking, and beating up must synchronise to the decimal part of a second; otherwise kinks are likely to occur. defects See Kink See Kink processes, See Relief printing See Relief printing and Surface operations and Surface printing. printing. Design lacking restraint; fabrics Design lacking restraint; excessive excessive decoration for the purpose of embellishment. decoration for the Term coined in Gernany. In purpose of products, kitsch represents too embellishment. much sheen, gilt, and lustre; it may be fake marble, poor reproductions or fussy frills. general A term used in A term used in England for silk England for silk waste obtained in reeling. waste obtained in reeling. garments, Garment-related Garment-related term. See made-ups, term. under Garment sizing system. assemblies garments, Garment-related Garment-related term. See



453 Word



Category Short description Description made-ups, term. under Garment sizing system. assemblies In sewing machine, a lever KNEE LIFTER apparatus, In sewing machine, under the sewing machine equipage, a lever under the table, which when operated by tools sewing machine the machinist’s knee, lifts the table, presser foot. KNICKER YARN fibers, See Knickerbocker See Knickerbocker yarn filaments, yarn yarns KNICKERBOCKER fibers, A type of fancy yarn, A type of fancy yarn, also YARN filaments, also called Knicker called Knicker yarn, Nepp yarn. yarns yarn, Nepp yarn A yarn made on the woollen system and showing strongly contrasting spots on its surface that are made either by dropping in small balls of wool at the latter part of the carding process or by incorporating them in the blend and so setting the carding machine that these small lumps are not carded out. KNICKERBROCKER fabrics A tough wool fabric A tough wool fabric or mixture of wool and cotton with TWEED or mixture of wool characteristic coloured flecks; and cotton with made with knickerbrocker characteristic yarns coloured flecks KNIFE PLEATS garments, Pleats with the folds Pleats with the folds lying flat made-ups, lying flat and facing and facing in one direction. assemblies in one direction. KNIT BRAID accessories A cord produced on A cord produced on a smalla small-diameter diameter knitting machine with oscillating feeders. knitting machine with oscillating feeders. KNIT TUBING fabrics A circular knitted A circular knitted cloth without cloth without seams. seams. Sheath-style dresses, skirts and sleeves may be made in this way KNIT, DOUBLE fabrics See Double knit. See Double knit. KNIT, SINGLE fabrics See Single knit. See Single knit. KNIT-DE KNIT processes, See under Textured See under Textured yarn. TEXTURING operations yarn. KNITS fabrics See Knitted fabrics See Knitted fabrics KNITTED BLANK fabrics Also called Garment Also called Garment blank. A



454 Word



Category



Short description blank.



Description piece of fabric from which a garment portion or portions are cut, and whose width and length relates to that garment portion. It also incorporates shaping by changes of stitch size or type. Invariably the lowest edge, the bottom of the blank, is a welt. A structure produced by KNITTED FABRICS fabrics A structure interlooping one or more ends produced by interlooping one or of yarn or comparable material; a fabric constructed from more ends of yarn intermeshed loops. or comparable There are three recognised material; a fabric looped constructions used for constructed from the manufacture of knitted intermeshed loops fabrics; Warp knitted fabric, Weft knitted fabric and Crochet knitted fabric. See Warp knitting, Weft knitting and Crochet knitting under Knitting. KNITTED FLAT accessories See under Ruche See under Ruche RUCHE A substantial quantity of KNITTED garments, A substantial GARMENTS made-ups, quantity of apparels apparels are now being made assemblies are now being made from knitted fabrics, and its from knitted fabrics, popularity is steadily increasing and its popularity is all over the world. Knitting is steadily increasing used to produce garments that all over the world. cover every part of the human body, in a wide range of garment types from socks, caps, gloves and underwear to upper and lower body garments varying from T-shirts to formal jackets. The most salient property of knitted fabric is its extensibility, which is in sharp contrast to the general rigidity of most woven fabrics. The principal feature of garments made from knitted fabric is that the nature of the final garment and the processing it goes through are affected in a major way by the primary knitting process.



455 Word



Category



Short description



KNITTED LOOP



fabrics



A single unit of weft knitted fabric consisting of a loop of yarn intermeshed above and below with different threads



KNITTED PILE CARPET



garments, made-ups, assemblies



KNITTING



fabrics



Description All knitted garments are classified into four classes according to general production methods: 1. Fully cut garments, 2. Stitch shaped cut garments, 3. Fully fashioned garments, and 4. Integral garments. See Fully cut garments, Stitch shaped cut garments, Fully fashioned garments, and Integral gar-ments. A single unit of weft knitted fabric consisting of a loop of yarn intermeshed above and below with different threads, and usually sharing the same thread with the loops on either side. At the point of mesh with the previously formed loop, a knitted loop is usually open but may be crossed. A carpet made on either warp knitting or weft knitting machines



A carpet made on either warp knitting or weft knitting machines One of the most important One of the most processes for producing important processes fabrics. The action of forming for producing fabrics. The action fabrics by the intermeshing of loops. There are three of forming fabrics by recognised looped the intermeshing of constructions: loops. Warp knitting: Warp knitting is characterised by the structural threads of the fabric running along the length of the fabric approximately parallel with the selvage. One horizontal row of loops, or ‘course’, is made from many threads. Warpknitted fabrics are mainly flat, closer knit, ladders less easily and are more stable than weft-knitted. Extra inlaid



456 Word



Category



Short description



Description weft yarns can be used to increase stability. Warp knitting is done on Tricot and Raschel machines; both having different kinds of needles. In Tricot, one or more sets of yarns are used, e.g. for onebar tricot the yarn is knitted first in one di-rection, then in the opposite; in two-bar tricot using two sets, one is knitted in one direction, the other in the opposite. Many warp-knitted fabrics are ‘locknit’ construction, the stitches locked to prevent runs. Weft knitting: Fabric in which the constituent threads generally pass from side to side of the fabric, along the ad-vancing line of construction. Weft knitted fabrics are characterised by the structural threads being perpendicular to the selvage of the fabric. One horizontal row of loops or ‘course’ of such a fabric is normally made from one or very few threads; the yarn goes back and forth across the fabric (weft-ways) to make a flat fabric and goes round and round to make a circular or tubular fabric. The basic stitches are plain, purl and rib. An extra yarn may be laid across, but not looped, to give greater sta-bility. There are various types of weft knitting machines to produce simple fabrics for seamless hose and underwear, complicated cloth; for fully fashioned hosiery, underwear and outerwear; and intri-cate design fabrics like interlock, double knitted, etc. Crochet: Unlike the other two



457 Word



Category



KNITTING DEFECTS



defects



Short description



Description constructions, it is solely handmade. One thread is used which chains upon it-self, and cross-links are formed with previously formed chain to generate fabric Knitted fabric has Knitted fabric has characteristic defects that occur as a result of characteristic defects that occur the construction of the fabric. They can be categorised into as a result of the horizontal and vertical construction of the components. fabric. One type of main horizontal fault is different course lengths being incorporated into the fabric. When some courses are wildly out of specification and differ from one another, the fabric has hori-zontal bars that degrade its appearance and lower its perceived quality. If the mean value of the course length is out of specification, every other fabric property is also affected. Most other faults that result in horizontal barring are connected in some respect to the yarn used. They include: Uneven counts between yarns, Uneven counts within yarns, Different dyeing shades between yarns, Different dyeing within one yarn, Different spinning/batch source of yarns, Different bulking/heat treatment given to synthetic man-made yarns. There are other faults specific to certain yarn and fibre types, but all these faults characterise them-selves as bars across the fabric, of density, colour or lustre. Vertical faults usually result from the knitting process but can occur with finishing. A



458 Word



Category



Short description



KNITTING ELEMENTS



apparatus, equipage, tools



A generic term describing the loopforming parts of a knitting machine



KNITTING MACHINE apparatus, A machine for the equipage, production of yarns, tools fabrics or garments by warp knitting or weft knitting.



Description common ver-tical fault is a needle line. At its most benign a faulty needle may produce a wale slightly larger or smaller, or distorted loops. Such lines may or may not result in the rejection of fabric or garment, but they nevertheless produce an obvious lowering of its quality. Really faulty needles result in vertical lines of occasional or frequent tuck stitches, or occasional or frequent cut stitches where the yarn actually parts, with consequential holes. Tucking and cutting can sometimes occur at random, or through the whole piece, rendering it virtually useless. In piece goods fabric produced on circular machines it is sometimes possible to split the fabric down a single bad wale line before finishing. Other solutions involve the messy business of remov-ing damaged garment portions from the cut lay and re-cutting. Such faults in garment blanks or fully-fashioned panels render them unusable. In these industries it is much more likely that the knitter in control of the machines would notice very early, and so pre-vent much wastage. A generic term describing the loop-forming parts of a knitting machine, and those parts used to control and/or select the loop-forming instruments. A machine for the production of yarns, fabrics or garments by warp knitting or weft knitting. The different types of warp and weft-knitting machines are classified and named,



459 Word



Category



KNITWEAR



garments, made-ups, assemblies



KNOCK-OFF LAP



processes, operations



KNOP STITCH



processes, operations



KNOP YARN



fibers, filaments, yarns



KNOT



fibers, filaments, yarns



Short description



Description primarily, according to (i) the type of fabric or garment they are intended to produce, (ii) the type of needle used, (iii) the format, arrangement and activation of their needles or needle beds, (iv) the type of patterning con-trol used, and (v) whether they are handoperated or power-operated. A generic term A generic term applied to all applied to all knitted knitted outer garments except outer garments stockings and socks except stockings and socks In warp knitting, a length or In warp knitting, a length or (lengths) of (lengths) of yarn received by a yarn received by a needle and not pulled through the loop. needle and not pulled through the loop. In weft knitting, a In weft knitting, a stitch giving a stitch giving a raised raised effect, that consists of a effect held loop and more than two tuck loops all of which are intermeshed in the same course. A type of fancy yarn. A type of fancy yarn. A yarn that contains prominent bunches of one or more of its component threads, arranged at regular or irregular intervals along its length. Sometimes a tie yarn is used to hold the knops in place A joint in a yarn 1. A joint in a yarn made by made by tying two tying two ends together. If the ends together. joint is not properly done it may be a de-fect. 2. A measure of yarn, thread, etc. or quantity, which varies with the fibre; it consists of a set number of coils. Named for the knot which is tied following the reeling process. 3. In the manufacture of Oriental rugs, the lacing or tying of a yarn introduced into



460 Word



Category



Short description



KNOT DYEING



processes, operations fabrics



See Tie dyeing.



KNOT WORK



KNOT YARN



KNOT, LONG KNOTLESS YARN



KNOTS KNOTTED STITCH



KNOTTER



KNOTTING



KNOTTING-IN KNUBBS



fibers, filaments, yarns defects fibers, filaments, yarns



Porous fancywork made by tatting, crocheting, or knotting, See knop yarn.



Description the web around the warp yarns. There are two major types of knots used for this purpose, the ghiordes, or Turkish knot, and the senna or Persian knot. See Tie dyeing. Porous fancywork made by tatting, crocheting, or knotting,



See knop yarn.



See Long knot See Long knot A ply yarn that has A ply yarn that has no lumps or no lumps or knots. knots. Yarns are spliced togerther by hand or machine when neces-sary. See Bullion Stitch. See Bullion Stitch.



seams, stitches processes, In knitting, a needle In knitting, a needle loop operations loop expanded over expanded over two wales. two wales Applied to stockings, the terms knotted stitch and Spread loop refer to expansion over two wales and the stockings are described as ‘mesh’ or (technically) ‘half-point transfer’. The stitch has ladderresistant properties. apparatus, A device for tying A device for tying knots, used equipage, knots, used in in making yarn. tools making yarn. processes, The process of tying 1. The process of tying two operations two yarn ends yarn ends together. together. 2. The tying of the ends of a new weaver’s beam to their corresponding ends on the old beam in the loom by hand or machine. Also called as ‘knotting-in’, ‘tying-in’ and ‘tying back’ processes, See under Knotting See under Knotting operations fibers, See Frisons. See Frisons.



461 Word



KNUCKLE



KOKAYU SILK



KOKO



KRAFT YARN



KRAFTCORD



Category filaments, yarns apparatus, equipage, tools fabrics



Description



See preferred term Crimp.



See preferred term Crimp.



A Japanese silk fabric in the gum, made in a mottled effect. garments, A Hawaiian term for made-ups, a knitted bag or bag assemblies made of net fabric employing coir or hemp fibre. fibers, A yarn made by filaments, twisting a strip of yarns paper manufactured from wood pulp by the sulphate process. fibers, A yarn made of filaments, twisted kraft yarns yarns used as a stuffer and/or backing in carpet weaving.



KUDZU FIBRE



fibers, filaments, yarns



KURIWATA



fibers, filaments, yarns fibers, filaments, yarns



KURUVA YARN



Short description



A Japanese silk fabric in the gum, made in a mottled effect.



A Hawaiian term for a knitted bag or bag made of net fabric employing coir or hemp fibre.



A yarn made by twisting a strip of paper manufactured from wood pulp by the sulphate process.



A yarn made of twisted kraft yarns used as a stuffer and/or backing in carpet weaving. It has a smooth texture and uniform thickness and maintains its stiffness without sizing. The wet strength of yarn is not less than 40% of the dry strength. A strong, water resistant bast A strong, water fibre obtained from Pueraria resistant bast fibre thunbergiana in Asia where it obtained from has often been used for fabric. Pueraria thunbergiana in Asia See under Wild silk. See under Wild silk.



A coarse, two-ply A coarse, two-ply coir yarn, coir yarn, handspun handspun on Malabar Coast of on Malabar Coast of India. Used for coarse matting. India.



L Word



Category



Short description



Description



462 Word LABEL CLOTH



LABEL, CARE LABORATORY DIP LABORATORY SAMPLE



Category fabrics



Short description A heavily, but flexibly, filled fabric, used for labels and tags. accessories See Care label processes, A laboratory dyeing, operations usually to develop a dye formula. general A portion of material taken to represent the lot sample



LAC DYE



apparatus, equipage, tools



LACE



fabrics



Description A heavily, but flexibly, filled fabric, used for labels and tags. See Care label A laboratory dyeing, usually to develop a dye formula.



A portion of material taken to represent the lot sample, or the original material, and used in the laboratory as a source of test specimens. A fairly fast orange A fairly fast orange crimson crimson natural dyestuff natural dyestuff of the same of the same class as class as cochineal, obtained cochineal, obtained from from ‘Coccus lacca’. The ‘Coccus lacca’ insect lives on the twigs of certain trees, covered with a resinous encrustation, which is extracted with water to obtain the dye A fabric consisting of sets A fabric consisting of sets of of threads, some of threads, some of which are which are twisted round twisted round the others at the others at intervals, intervals, thus producing thus producing ‘holes’ as ‘holes’ as patterning. patterning. Open-work fabrics of various construction and elaborate designs, with a ground of mesh or net on which patterns may be worked at the same time as the ground is formed or applied later, and which is made of yarn by looping, twisting, or knitting, either by hand with a needle or bobbin, or by ma-chinery. Also a similar fabric may be made by crocheting, tatting, darning, embroidering, weaving, or knitting. Any fibre may be used but the most common are now nylon, viscose and cotton. Made as edgings as well as wide-width fabric, it is with few exceptions, machine-



463 Word



Category



LACE EFFECT



fabrics



LACE FURNISHING MACHINE LACE MACHINES



apparatus, equipage, tools apparatus, equipage, tools



Short description



Description made. There has been a great revival in hand-made bobbin or pillow lace, but as a leisure-time craft interest, not for commercial purposes. Narrow lace is used flat, pleated or gathered as decoration; wide lace is used for lingerie, nightwear, formal dresses, such as wedding outfits; cheaper varieties are used as curtains and bed-spreads. Lace often has an underlay, either matching or contrasting. There are many types of lace with different descriptive names, often taken from the area in which they were first developed. A broad term for novelty A broad term for novelty fabrics with open, lacy fabrics with open, lacy effects effects produced by leno weaves, machine embroidery on sheer ground, mock leno effects. See under Lace See under Lace machines. machines. Bar warp machine, Barmen machine...etc



Bar warp machine: A warp lace machine in which the pattern control is similar to that of a Leavers machine. Barmen machine: A braiding machine in which threads on king bobbins placed on carriers are plaited with each other, and sometimes with warp threads. A jacquard controls the paths of the carriers in accordance with the requirements of the pattern. Bobbinet machine: Also called Plain net machine. A machine in which threads in brass bobbins borne in carriages, in pairs in tandem



464 Word



Category



Short description



Description in each comb space, swing in pendulum fashion between ver-tical warp threads in planes at right angles to the warp sheet and progressively traverse across the whole width of the machine and return. Curtain machine: Also called Lace furnishing machine. A machine in which threads in brass bob-bins borne in carriages, each in an allotted comb space, swing in pendulum fashion between vertical warp and pattern threads in planes at right angles to a warp sheet. The lateral movements of the warp and pattern threads are imparted by guide bars. By interaction of a jack bar and a jacquard, spring-steel jacks modify the lateral movements of selected warp and pattern threads in accordance with the requirements of the pattern. Double locker machine: A plain net machine in which the motion of the carriages is imparted by driving and locker bars. Go-through machine: A Leavers type of machine, in which the catch bars impart motion to the car-riages. Lace furnishing machine: See Curtain machine, above. Leavers machine: A machine in which threads in brass bobbins borne in carriages, each in an allotted comb space, swing in pendulum fashion between vertical warp and pattern threads in planes at right angles to a warp sheet. The



465 Word



Category



Short description



Description lateral movements of the warp and pattern threads are imparted by steel bars, actuated by a jacquard. Mechlin machine: A Leavers type of machine without a jacquard that employs a limited number of guide bars, whose movements are controlled by cams. It is used for making a special type of net called ‘mechlin’. Plain net machine: See Curtain machine, above. Roller rocker machine: Also called Rolling rocker machine. A plain net machine in which the motion of the carriages is imparted by fluted rollers. Rolling rocker machine: See Roller Rocker machine, above. Sival machine: A Leavers type of machine, differing from the standard version in that the frame and the catchbar and point-bar linkages are similar to those of the furnishing machine. Its pattern-ing principle is the same as that of the Leavers machine, and the lace produced is of the Leavers type. String warp machine: A warp lace machine in which the pattern control is similar to that of the furnishing machine. The jacks work between the guide bars and needles. Warp lace machine: A machine on which the ground threads are looped and are taken from warp beams. The pattern threads are laid in and secured by the ground threads.



466 Word LACE QUALITY



LACE SPRIG LACE STITCH



LACE YARNS



LACET



LACING LACING CORD LACQUER FINISH



Category fabrics



Short description Description A quantitative measure of A quantitative measure of the rate of take-up (and the rate of take-up (and thus thus the comparative the comparative warp-way) warp-way) of lace in the of lace in the machine. machine. The finished quality of lace and net differs from the quality in the machine state owing to dimen-sional changes introduced in dressing. The finished quality of plain net is traditionally expressed as the sum of the Hole count per inch warp-way and the hole count per inch bobbinway. fabrics A portion of a lace A portion of a lace appliquéd appliquéd to a net ground to a net ground fabrics In weft knitting. An open- In weft knitting. An openwork effect work effect (in plain-knitted fabric) produced by transferring needle loops to an adjacent needle of the same needle bar. fibers, Smooth ply cotton yarns Smooth ply cotton yarns filaments, generally produced in the generally produced in the yarns range of 60’s to 24o’s range of 60’s to 24o’s counts; generally hard counts; generally hard twisted and gassed. twisted and gassed. Made of good quality combed cotton. Mostly Egyptian, prima or Sea Island cotton are used. accessories A braided or woven A braided or woven narrow narrow fabric, flat or fabric, flat or tubular, often tubular cut into length and tagged for use as shoelaces and corset-laces. processes, See under Leasing. See under Leasing. operations accessories See under Cable cord. See under Cable cord. processes, A chemical process A chemical process forming operations forming a thin, smooth, a thin, smooth, highly glazed highly glazed film on the film on the surface of the surface of the cloth; it cloth; it may be applied in may be applied in patterns. Among the patterns. materials used are cellulose acetate, synthetic resins.



467 Word LACQUER PRINT



Category processes, operations



Short description Lacquer is used to bind pigments to a fabric.



LADDEER BRAID



garments, made-ups, assemblies



Also called ‘Lattice braid’



LADDEER STITCH



general



An embroidery stitch.



LADDER



defects



Fabric defect. A wale or several consecutive wales in a weft-knitted fabric in which the loop formation has collapsed into straight lengths of yarn.



LADDER WEB



accessories



A four-ply woven narrow fabric, A crochet or warpknitted narrow fabric



Description Lacquer is used to bind pigments to a fabric. The continuous film formed also sticks the fibres together and the fabric has a stiff hand; the usefulness is therefore limited. Also called ‘Lattice braid’. An open-work braid which, in appearance, suggests a ladder. Used for laces and trimmings. An embroidery stitch. The threads are arranged in a way to simulate the rungs of a ladder. Fabric defect. A wale or several consecutive wales in a weft-knitted fabric in which the loop formation has collapsed into straight lengths of yarn. The defect is caused by the breakdown of a stitch that, when the fabric is subsequently subjected to tension, permits the de-knitting of the stitches in the same wale or wales within previous courses. See also Run 1. A four-ply woven narrow fabric consisting of two outer or body webs between which are woven two narrow webs in staggered relationship with each other, each being woven alternately into one end and then the outer or body web, so as to form, when opened up, supports for the slats of a Vene-tian blind. 2. A crochet or warp-knitted narrow fabric, consisting of two wales, or columns of stitches spaced apart by the width of the slat of a venetian blind. Weft yarns



468 Word



Category



Short description



LAHORE



fabrics



LAID FABRIC



fabrics



A piece-dyed dress fabric made from cashmere in small dobby effects. A fabric made without weft yarn



LAID ROPE accessories See under Rope LAID-IN FABRIC, fabrics A fabric containing one or WARP-KNITTED more series of warp threads held into the ground construction by being trapped between the face loops and the underlaps of the ground construction.



LAID-IN FABRIC, WEFT-KNITTED



fabrics



A fabric containing nonknitted yarns, which are held in position by the knitted structure.



LAID-PILE FINISH LAKE



processes, operations apparatus, equipage, tools



See Drawn-pile finish. In textile field this is the principle of mordant dyeing and printing.



Description cross from one wale to the other to form a ladder-like structure which separates and positions the slats of the blind. Knitted web is usu-ally made from polyester yarn and heat set after manufacture. A piece-dyed dress fabric made from cashmere in small dobby effects. A fabric made without weft yarn, the parallel warp yarns being held together by means of rubber latex or other binding material See under Rope A fabric containing one or more series of warp threads held into the ground construction by being trapped between the face loops and the underlaps of the ground construction. The laid-in yarn is connected to the ground construction by an underlap on each wale that it crosses. A fabric containing nonknitted yarns, which are held in position by the knitted structure. These fabrics are frequently raised to produce a pile effect, e.g. fleecy fabrics. See Drawn-pile finish. An insoluble pigment obtained by precipitating various natural and artificial colouring matters on to a suitable base in the presence of alum or salts of magnesium, zinc, tin, etc. In textile field this is the principle of mordant dyeing and printing.



469 Word LAMB’S WOOL



Category fibers, filaments, yarns



Short description Soft resilient wool shorn from lambs up to seven months old.



LAMBREQUIN



fabrics



A decorative fabric



LAMBSDOWN



fabrics



A plaited knitted fabric made of soft twist woollen yarn and hard twist cotton yarn.



LAMBSKIN CLOTH



fabrics



A cotton fabric having a high weft sett, with dense nap of fibre on the surface.



LAMÈ



fabrics



Any fabric containing metal yarns. The metal may be added as decoration or it may exist as the warp or weft thread.



LAMÈ JERSEY



fabrics



Knitted fabric, usually acetate, viscose or



Description Soft resilient wool shorn from lambs up to seven months old. Yarns from lambswool are used for knitwear and, in small amounts, mixed with other fibres in fabrics. Anything containing lambswool has a characteristic soft feel that makes it comfortable to the wearer. A decorative fabric that may be hung from a shelf or casing for concealing unsightly walls and curtain fixtures A plaited knitted fabric made of soft twist woollen yarn and hard twist cotton yarn. The woollen yarn appears on the face, which is given a heavy, spongy napped finish; the cotton yarn appears on the back. Used for children’s coats, blanketing, robes. A cotton fabric having a high weft sett, with dense nap of fibre on the surface. The weave is of a weft-sateen character of the fustain type Any fabric containing metal yarns. The metal may be added as decoration or it may exist as the warp or weft thread. The main fabric can be silk, viscose, acetate, triacetate, nylon, or polyester, and the weave is usually plain. The fabrics are thin and drape well. Used for evening dresses, capes, boleros, and fancy dress. Requires lining. A one-way fabric. See also Lame jersey. Knitted fabric, usually acetate, viscose or



470 Word



Category



LAMINATED FABRIC



fabrics



LAMINATES LAMPAS



fabrics fabrics



Short description Description polyester, with metallic polyester, with metallic yarn yarn included as an extra included as an extra thread thread in the knitting. in the knitting. It is a oneway fabric, with a light silver or gold (or coloured) effect one way, but when held up the other way less shine will be visible and more of the basic colour. Usually lightweight and often almost transparent. Very soft and drapes beautifully for eveningwear. A layered fabric A layered fabric structure, structure, wherein a face wherein a face or outer or outer fabric is joined to fabric is joined to a a continuous sheet continuous sheet material, material, such as such as polyurethane foam, polyurethane foam in such a way that the identity of the continuous sheet material is retained, either by the flame method or by an adhesive, and this in turn normally, but not always, is joined on the back with a backing fabric such as tricot. The fabrics are not hardwearing, nor are they very warm, but the foam adds body to the fabric. Used for children’s clothes, women’s jackets and trousers and inexpensive coats. Slightly springy, but easy to handle. See also Bonded fabric. See Laminated fabric. See Laminated fabric. A fabric similar to A fabric similar to brocade, brocade, originally an originally an Indian printed Indian printed silk, but silk, but now a woven fabric now a woven fabric with with a rep ground and a a rep ground and a satin- satin-like pattern formed by like pattern formed by the the warp yarns. A warp yarns. contrasting effect is achieved, too, with the weft yarns so that the same colour appears in the pattern as in the background. Very



471 Word



Category



Short description



LAMPWICK LANA FIBRE



accessories fibers, filaments, yarns



See Wick A lustrous seed hair obtained from a species of bombax tree cotton



LANCÉ



fabrics



A term applied to fabrics in which the weft threads interlace with only a few warp threads at intervals across the fabric



LANGLEY



general



Unit of energy received by sample being tested for light fastness or strength loss



LANOLIN



apparatus, equipage, tools



A complex chemical substance, fatty in nature and chiefly a mixture of cholesterol esters obtained from grease wool.



LANSDOWN



fabrics



A lightweight, soft, fine dress fabric woven with a silk warp



Description elaborate designs are produced. It is a heavy fabric, usually made now of cotton, viscose, acrylic or mixtures. Used for curtains and furnishings. In some cases the wrong side is often attractive enough not to need lining. See Wick A lustrous seed hair obtained from a species of bombax tree cotton in Venezuela and Puerto Rico. Used for stuffing. A term applied to fabrics in which the weft threads interlace with only a few warp threads at intervals across the fabric, and float over or under the rest to produce tiny dots or specks on the ground. Unit of energy received by sample being tested for light fastness or strength loss either in sunlight or the Fade-o-meter A complex chemical substance, fatty in nature and chiefly a mixture of cholesterol esters obtained from grease wool. It serves as an emollient for the skin of the sheep and for its fleece. Purified sheep grease under the name of lanolin or lanolin serves as the basis for grease paints, ointments, and skin creams. A lightweight, soft, fine dress fabric woven with a silk warp, which appears on the face, and worsted or cotton filling, which shows on the back, in a two up, one down twill.



472 Word LAP



LAP WASTE



LAP-FELLED SEAM



LAPEL



LAPEL ROLL



Category Short description Description general, A sheet of fibres or fabric 1. GENERAL. A sheet of fibers, wrapped around a core fibres or fabric wrapped filaments, with specific applications around a core with specific yarns, fabrics, in different sections of applications in different processes, the industry sections of the industry, e.g. operations sheets of fibre wound on rollers or round endless aprons to facilitate transfer from one process to the next. 2. IN SILK. Silk waste after discharging and combing, but before processing into sliver or top. 3. IN FABRIC. (a) The length of fabric between successive transverse folds when pieces are plaited down or folded. (b) An individual layer of fabric in roll form. 4. IN WARP-KNITTING. Descriptive of the wrapping of the yarn around the needle. The term is sometimes used synonymously for ‘overlap’. See also Lapping movement fibers, Waste of long fibres, Waste of long fibres, formed filaments, formed in drawing and in drawing and spinning yarns spinning processes processes by the breaking of the ends between the front rollers and the bobbins. general A seam formed with the A seam formed with the edges of both plies of edges of both plies of fabric fabric concealed by inter- concealed by inter-lapping. lapping. Two or more rows of stitches secure the turned pieces of fabric. garments, The upper part of the The upper part of the front made-ups, front edge of a jacket or edge of a jacket or coat assemblies coat which folds back on which folds back on to the to the forepart. forepart. The length of the lapel extends from the gorge seam to the back. garments, The fall and curl of the The fall and curl of the lapel made-ups, lapel downwards from downwards from the break



473 Word



Category assemblies



LAPPED



processes, operations accessories



LAPPED APPLICATION



LAPPED SEAM



general



LAPPET



fabrics, apparatus, equipage, tools



Short description Description the break seam of the seam of the collar to the first collar to the first button. button. The term ‘roll’ will apply mostly to a soft finish lapel, not one which is pressed almost flat on the crease line. See Cuttled. See Cuttled. A method of zipper A method of zipper application, in which only application, in which only one fabric flap covers the one fabric flap covers the zipper and there is only zipper and there is only one one row of stitching to row of stitching to the left of the left of the seamline. the seamline. This type of application is common on left-side openings of skirts and pants. A complex seam formed A complex seam formed on on the inside of the the inside of the object with object with neither raw neither raw edge enclosed, edge enclosed, and and having one visible line having one visible line of of topstitching on the face topstitching on the face side and a small fold formed side and a small fold by the topstitching. A lapped formed by the seam is made by (1) topstitching. machine basting the face sides of the fabric together on the 15 mm seamline, (2) pressing both seam allowances to one side, (3) clipping the basting stitches every four to five stitches to facilitate later thread removal (4) basting the seam allowances in place to one side to avoid movement during the topstitching step, (5) topstitching through the fabric and both seam allowances 1 to 2 mm from the fold, and (6) removing both machine bastings. (Compare Tucked seam.) See Ballooning eye. 1. A figure produced on fabric by means of extra warps, using a special form of loom. 2. See Ballooning eye.



474 Word LAPPET WEAVE



Category fabrics



LAPPING



apparatus, equipage, tools



LAPPING MOVEMENT



processes, operations



LARVA



fibers, filaments, yarns



LASER CLOTH INSPECTOR



apparatus, equipage, tools



LASH-IN



defects



Short description Description Type of weave in which Type of weave in which floating threads are floating threads are carried carried on the surface of on the surface of the fabric the fabric and introduced and introduced at intervals at intervals to form the to form the pattern. The pattern. floats are not long and the patterns are usually geometric, i.e. zigzag stripes in white yarn on a coloured plain-weave ground. The technique can also be introduced to form woven spots. In this case, the floating yarns between spots are cut. Almost any fibre or mixture of fibres can be used. Specially woven fabric is Specially woven fabric is wound about eight or ten wound about eight or ten times round the central times round the central pressure bowl of a pressure bowl of a textiletextile-printing machine printing machine to ensure to ensure resilience. resilience. The compound motion of The compound motion of the the guide bars of warp- guide bars of warp-knitting knitting machines that machines that presents the presents the threads to threads to the needles so the needles so that loops that loops can be formed. can be formed This compound motion consists in swinging motions of the guides at right angles to the needle bar, and lateral movements parallel to the needle bar. See also Overlap and Underlap Stage of a silkworm’s life Stage of a silkworm’s life when hatched from the when hatched from the egg. egg. It is immature, wingless, and wormlike; growth in size and development change the larva into the chrysalis stage. A device that can scan A device that can scan grey grey fabric (up to 64 fabric (up to 64 inches wide) inches wide) rapidly at rapidly at speeds up to 250 speeds up to 250 yards yards per minute per minute See Jerk-in See Jerk-in



475 Word LASHED PILE



Category fabrics



LASHING



garments, made-ups, assemblies



LASTING



fabrics



LASTRILE FIBRE



fibers, filaments, yarns apparatus, equipage, tools fibers, filaments, yarns



LATCH NEEDLE



LATENT CRIMP



LATERAL



fibers, filaments, yarns



Short description Description A filling pile with each A filling pile with each pile pile pick interwoven with pick interwoven with three three ends to bind it ends to bind it securely. Also securely. called ‘fast pile’. The fastening of the The fastening of the inside inside seams of coat seams of coat edgings or edgings or facings to the facings to the outer fabric or outer fabric or interlining, interlining, in order to hold in order to hold them in them in position. Usually position. sewn by a blind stitch machine. A very stout, closely A very stout, closely woven woven fabric made from fabric made from hardhard-twisted yarns. twisted yarns. A ‘worsted lasting’, which is mainly used for protective clothing, is usually a seven-shaft weave. A ‘cotton lasting’, which may be of sateen or weft-faced twill weave, is used chiefly for shoe tops and bag linings. See Rubber-2 under See Rubber-2 under Rubber Rubber See under Needle



A crimp that is potentially present in specially prepared fibres or filaments and that can be developed by a specific treatment such as thermal relaxation or tensioning and subsequent relaxation.



See under Needle



A crimp that is potentially present in specially prepared fibres or filaments and that can be developed by a specific treatment such as thermal relaxation or tensioning and subsequent relaxation. Yarns or staple are specially prepared to crimp when subjected to certain, specific conditions such as wet processing or tumbling in a heated chamber. A descriptive term for a A descriptive term for a textile fibre composed of textile fibre composed of two two or more polymers or more polymers at least two of which have a continuous longitudinal external surface.



476 Word LATERAL HOLDING STRENGTH



Category accessories



LATERAL LEAKGE



processes, operations



LATEX



fibers, filaments, yarns



LATTICE BRAID LAUNDER-OMETER



fabrics apparatus, equipage, tools



LAUNDERPROOF



fabrics, garments, made-ups, assemblies



LAUNDERING



processes, operations



Short description The force required to disengage a snap fastener



Description The force required to disengage a snap fastener resulting from a pull in the plane parallel to the material to which the snap fastener is attached. The passage of gases The passage of gases along along or through the or through the textile textile element of a element of a coated fabric or coated fabric along interstices formed by the textile element and the coating polymer of a coated fabric. The milky juice found in The milky juice found in certain plants, which is certain plants, which is the the raw material from raw material from which which rubber is made. rubber is made. It is made into stretch yarns with a variety of names, and incorporated into various fabrics to make corsetry, swimwear, ski-wear, lace and elastic See Ladder braid. See Ladder braid. The standard laboratory The standard laboratory device for testing a device for testing a fabric’s fabric’s colourfastness colourfastness to, and shrinkage in, washing and dry cleaning. Also used to test other laundry problems. Fabrics and garments Fabrics and garments which which have been have been laboratory tested laboratory tested to to withstand laundering with withstand laundering no colour lose and shrinkage under normal washing conditions and length of time. A process intended to A process intended to remove soils and/or remove soils and/or stains stains by treatment by treatment (washing) with (washing) with an an aqueous detergent aqueous detergent solution and normally solution and normally including subsequent including subsequent rinsing, extracting and rinsing, extracting and drying. A process used to drying. refurbish a textile product or parts thereof by: (a) cleaning it in water containing a



477 Word



Category



Short description



LAUNDRY DUCK



fabrics



A wide army duck fabric



LAUNDRYTESTED



fabrics, garments, made-ups, assemblies



Fabrics and garments which have passed certain tests for colour fastness to washing



LAWN



fabrics



Very fine smooth plain weave fabric originally made from linen, but more commonly from cotton and now also featured in man-made fibres.



LAWN FINISH



apparatus, equipage, tools



A light-starch finish applied to lawn and other fine-yarn plain fabrics



LAY



fabrics, A build up of two or more accessories layers of fabric in identical lengths so that they can be cut collectively into garment portions.



Description cleaning agent, and possibly bleach, (b) drying it, and (c) usually, ironing or pressing it. A wide army duck fabric specially constructed for covering rolls in mangles and other laundry machines. Fabrics and garments which have passed certain tests for colour fastness to washing, sun, gas and perspiration; tensile strength; dimensional stability; construction, etc. Very fine smooth plain weave fabric originally made from linen, but more commonly from cotton and now also featured in manmade fibres. May be plain or printed, and has a slightly stiff finish which may be permanent. Very cool and absorbent and hardwearing. Used for baby clothes, blouses, and nightwear. Creases easily. Ordinarily lawn is too closely woven to be ‘sheer’ but lawns made from synthetic man-made fibres have a tendency to be sheer. Lawn and cambric have similarities because both are fine fabrics but lawn is usually more closely woven and stiffer in handle than cambric. See Handkerchief linen. A light-starch finish applied to lawn and other fine-yarn plain fabrics to give a crisp finished material. 1. A build up of two or more layers of fabric in identical lengths so that they can be cut collectively into garment portions. The dimensions of the lay in respect of number



478 Word



LAY LENGTH



LAY MARKER



LAY PINS



LAY PLANNING



LAYING UP



LAYOUT PLANNING LAZY-DAISYSTITCH



LCSP



Category



Short description



Description of layers and length are predetermined, as is the layout of the garment pieces on the upper surface of the lay. 2. In cordage, to twist two or more components about each other to form a helix about the axis of the resulting laid product which may be a strand or rope. The direction of lay is described as ‘S’ and ‘Z’ (see Direction of twist). accessories The pitch of one The pitch of one complete complete turn of a yarn in turn of a yarn in a strand or a strand or of a strand in of a strand in a rope a rope measured in a straight line parallel to the axis of the strand or rope. apparatus, See Marker. See Marker. equipage, tools apparatus, Thin steel pins about 10- Thin steel pins about 10-15 equipage, 15 cm. long with large cm. long with large heads. tools heads. They are pushed through the waste parts of fabric lays to hold them firm for cutting. Mostly used on quilted fabrics. processes, The arranging of patterns The arranging of patterns of operations of the component parts of the component parts of a a garment garment within a given width of fabric in order to obtain the most economical use of the material. Also called ‘layout planning’. processes, The act of building the The act of building the lay operations lay from rolls or piles of from rolls or piles of fabric. fabric Same as Spreading. processes, See Lay planning See Lay planning operations general Long, detached chain Long, detached chain stitches grouped to form stitches grouped to form a a daisy pattern. daisy pattern. An embroidery stitch. fibers, See Lea count-strength See Lea count-strength filaments, product. product.



479 Word LEA



Category yarns fibers, filaments, yarns



LEA COUNTSTRENGTH PRODUCT



general



LEA SKEIN



fibers, filaments, yarns



LEACHING



processes, operations



LEADER FABRIC



fabrics



LEADER MARK



defects



Short description



Description



A unit length used to A unit length used to determine the linear determine the linear density density of various yarns, of various yarns, usually a usually a predetermined predetermined fraction of a fraction of a hank for a hank for a specific yarn specific yarn number number system: system: 1. IN COTTON, the number of 120 yard lengths of yarn per pound; an indirect yarn numbering sys-tem. 2. IN WORSTED, the number of 80 yard lengths of yarn per pound; an indirect yarn numbering sys-tem. 3. IN LINEN, the number of 300 yard lengths of yarn per pound; an indirect yarn numbering system Also called CSP, Break Also called CSP, Break factor. factor. The product of the lea strength, and the actual count, of cotton yarn. A skein, of length and A skein, of length and circumference specified circumference specified for for the specific yarn the specific yarn numbering numbering system system involved, commonly involved used to determine the linear density and the strength of yarns. Percolating action of a Percolating action of a suitable liquid to remove suitable liquid to remove any any substance substance A length of fabric used in A length of fabric used in finishing or dyeing finishing or dyeing processes to lead goods processes to lead goods through a machine, and through a machine, and generally left ready for generally left ready for attachment to a further attachment to a further place place when necessary. when necessary. A leader cloth is often called an‘endfent’ and its use enables a piece to be finished from end to end substantially without waste. See also End-fent See Decating mark. See Decating mark.



480 Word LEAF



Category apparatus, equipage, tools



LEAF EDGE



garments, made-ups, assemblies fibers, filaments, yarns



LEAF FIBRE



LEAFY COTTON



Short description Same as ‘harness’.



Description Same as ‘harness’. A threeleaf twill fabric, is a twill made by using three harnesses on the loom. The outer or fall edge of The outer or fall edge of the the collar. collar. Also called Hard fibre



fibers, filaments, yarns processes, operations



A ginned cotton which contains a large amount of small leaf matter. The arrangement of warp yarns to maintain the same relative position.



LEASE BANDS



fibers, filaments, yarns



. Bands laid across a warp being wound onto a beam



LEASING



processes, operations



The operation of inserting a crossed traverse leasecord in wraps of yarn on a reel for the purpose of preventing tangling of yarn during processing, e.g. in hank dyeing, leasing is employed to facili-tate subsequent winding of a yarn package from the hank supply.



LEASE



Also called Hard fibre. Derived from the hard coarse leaves of dicotyledonous plants such as abaca. A ginned cotton which contains a large amount of small leaf matter. The arrangement of warp yarns to maintain the same relative position. This is done generally by crisscrossing alternately, keeping them in position by two rods, called lease rods. 1. Bands laid across a warp being wound onto a beam to make later handling easier. 2. Bands laid across a yarnhank being reeled to make later handling easier. 1. The operation of inserting a crossed traverse leasecord in wraps of yarn on a reel for the purpose of preventing tangling of yarn during processing, e.g. in hank dyeing, leasing is employed to facili-tate subsequent winding of a yarn package from the hank supply. The leasing cords are removed from the dyed hanks immediately before the ‘hank to cone/cheese winding’ operation. In the case of silk yarns, this operation is termed ‘lacing’ and ‘halching’. The term halching is used when the lease-cord is coloured



481 Word



Category



Short description



LEATHER CLOTH



fabrics



LEATHER FIBRE, GROUND



fibers, filaments, yarns



A coated fabric which is embossed to give a leather-like appearance Waste leather ground into a fibrous state



LEATHERETTE



fabrics



Coated fabrics which suggest leather.



LEATHERI



fabrics



The hide or skin of animals



LEAVERS LACE



fabrics



Trade name which has developed into a generic term



LEAVERS MACHINE



apparatus, equipage, tools fibers, filaments, yarns fabrics



See under Lace machines.



LEFT TWIST



LEFT-HAND TWILL LEGS



fabrics, apparatus, equipage, tools



Description differently from the yarn. 2. Leasing is also used for the purpose of separating wraps of yarn on a reel into groups of specific numbers, as per requirement. A coated fabric which is embossed to give a leatherlike appearance Waste leather ground into a fibrous state; plastic resin is used so the material can be formed to appear like real leather. Coated fabrics which suggest leather. The material is coloured, finished and embossed to simulate leather grains and qualities. It is considered a misnomer. The hide or skin of animals. Thickness and type varies according to its source. There is a variety of types and these are listed under the appropriate name. Handling is the same for all types of leather. Leathers are all skin-shaped as they come from the animal, so they vary in size Trade name which has developed into a generic term for describing laces made on a Leavers machine See under Lace machines.



Same as ‘S’ twist.



Same as ‘S’ twist. See under Direction of twist.



See under Lace machines. See Sides under Knitted loop.



See under Lace machines. 1. See Sides under Knitted loop. 2. In zippers, the two portions of a separate



482 Word



Category



Short description



LEICESTER WOOLS



fibers, filaments, yarns



Lincoln, Cotswold, Romney Marsh, Cheviot wools, etc., spoken of as long crossbreeds, and now raised throughout the world, come in this group.



LENGTH GROUP



fibers, filaments, yarns general



All fibres, or pulls, whose lengths fall within a given length interval. A class interval of 1/8 in. (3 mm), usually designated by its midpoint length in oddnumbered sixteenths of an inch. In cords and strands, the In cords and strands, the actual distance required actual distance required to to make one 360° make one 360° revolution in revolution in any element any element in a strand or in a strand or cord. cord. See Bending length. See Bending length.



LENGTH INTERVAL



LENGTH OF LAY



fibers, filaments, yarns



LENGTH, BENDING LENGTHWISE DIRECTION



fabrics



LENO CRÊPON



fabrics



fabrics



The direction in a machine-made fabric parallel to the direction of movement the fabric followed in the manufacturing machine. Comprising a cotton crêpon background cloth with leno-weave style embroidery.



Description element that affix the element to the bead. Lincoln, Cotswold, Romney Marsh, Cheviot wools, etc., spoken of as long crossbreeds, and now raised throughout the world, come in this group. The fibre length ranges from 4 to 16 inches, while the fibre diameter is from 1/700 inch to 1/950 inch; there are 800 to 1,000 serrations per inch in the fibres. These hardy and lustrous wools, which have the tendency to reflect light rays, are used in homespun, tweeds, cheviot, and Shetland fabrics for outerwear. All fibres, or pulls, whose lengths fall within a given length interval. A class interval of 1/8 in. (3 mm), usually designated by its midpoint length in oddnumbered sixteenths of an inch.



The direction in a machinemade fabric parallel to the direction of movement the fabric followed in the manufacturing machine. Comprising a cotton crêpon background cloth with lenoweave style embroidery. It may be white or in a contrasting colour and is



483 Word



Category



LENO FABRIC



fabrics



LENO SELVEDGE LENO VOILE



fabrics



LENO WEAVE



fabrics



LEOPARD



fibers, filaments, yarns defects



LET-OFF MARK



fabrics



Short description



Description usually worked in striped formation. Used for blouses, shirts, and dresses. See also Crêpon. A fabric in which warp A fabric in which warp threads have been made threads have been made to to cross one another, cross one another, between between picks, during picks, during leno weaving. leno weaving The simpler types of lightweight fabric produced by this method of weaving are known as ‘gauze’. The crossing of the warp threads may be a general feature of plain leno fabrics (as in marquisette and some gauzes and muslins) or may be used in combination with other weaves, as in some cellular fabrics. See under Selvedge. See under Selvedge. Plain-weave cotton voile Plain-weave cotton voile fabric with an open, leno fabric with an open, leno weave stripe in it weave stripe in it. Soft drapy fabric. Used for children’s clothes, blouses, and nightwear. See also Voile A type of weave in which A type of weave in which two adjacent warp yarns two adjacent warp yarns cross each other cross each other between between the picks the picks. In this weave, one yarn moves alternately from side to side producing a cellular hole. This process can be used to produce a fancy effect or for more practical reasons, e.g. the crossed yarn will introduce stability into a fine fabric. Any fibre can be used to make leno weave cloth. A buff-coloured, A buff-coloured, shorthaired shorthaired flat fur, with flat fur, with black rosette black rosette markings markings. Very hardwearing. Fabric defect in woven Fabric defect in woven fabrics. fabrics. A corrugated defect pattern distributed across



484 Word



Category



LET-OFF MOTION



processes, operations



LETONA



fibers, filaments, yarns processes, operations



LETTER PRESS PRINTING



Short description



Description the fabric width, caused by badly adjusted let-off motions of a loom. (Compare Shier.) A mechanism for A mechanism for controlled controlled release and release and tension of yarns tension of yarns or or fabrics during an fabrics during an unwinding operation. The unwinding operation device which is driven mechanically is called ‘positive let-off motion’ and when it is made to operate otherwise is called ‘negative let-off motion’. A leaf fibre obtained from A leaf fibre obtained from the plant ‘agave letonae’. the plant ‘agave letonae’. The printing of type or illustrations from an image raised in relief



LEUCO DYE



apparatus, equipage, tools



A soluble reduced form of a dye from which the original dye may be regenerated by oxidation.



LEUCO SULPHUR DYE



apparatus, equipage, tools



A sulphur dye composition



LEVEL DYEING



processes, operations



The dyeing of cloth to produce uniformity of colour



LEVEL PILE



garments, made-ups, assemblies



LEVELLING



processes, operations



The printing of type or illustrations from an image raised in relief; the surface is inked before being pressed on paper or cloth. A soluble reduced form of a dye from which the original dye may be regenerated by oxidation. See also Vat dye and Sulphur dye A sulphur dye composition consisting of the leuco compound in the presence of a small excess of a reducing agent. The dyeing of cloth to produce uniformity of colour with no streaks or shaded areas. In pile yarn floor covering, pile in which all tuft legs are of substantially the same length.



In pile yarn floor covering, pile in which all tuft legs are of substantially the same length. The process leading to The process leading to more more uniform distribution uniform distribution of a of a chemical or dye chemical or dye within a within a substrate or substrate or between between substrates. substrates. In dyeing, the migration of dye molecules



485 Word



Category



Short description



LIBERTY PRINTS



fabrics



Trade name for certain exclusively designed prints



LIBERTY SATIN



fabrics



Trade name for a very soft, piece-dyed satin fabric, with raw silk warp and single spun-silk weft. Used for lingerie, robes, dresses, wedding gowns, etc.



LIFT



processes, operations



In spinning and twisting processes, the length of that part of the take-up package, which is intended to be covered by roving or yarn.



LIGHT



general



LIGHT BEDFORD CORD LIGHT END LIGHT FASTNESS



fabrics



Light is a form of electromagnetic radiation. See under Bedford cord.



Description resulting in more uniform distribution of the dye in the material. (Compare Transfer, Migration.) Trade name for certain exclusively designed prints usually incorporating many colours and applied to fine cotton lawn, thicker dressweight cotton, cotton furnishing fabrics, silk and fine wool challis. Trade name for a very soft, piece-dyed satin fabric, with raw silk warp and single spun-silk weft. Used for lingerie, robes, dresses, wedding gowns, etc. Very soft, so it will gather easily into soft drape styles. Slippery to handle 1. In spinning and twisting processes, the length of that part of the take-up package, which is in-tended to be covered by roving or yarn. 2. In weaving, a term used to denote the movement of those parts of the loom mechanism associated with the formation of the shed and hence, in weaving diagrams, to denote the representation of a warp thread over a weft thread. 3. In weaving, the term is also used to describe the movement of shuttle boxes. Light is a form of electromagnetic radiation. See also Visible light. See under Bedford cord.



See Fine end. The property of a material, expressed



See Fine end. The property of a material, expressed usually by an



defects general



486 Word



Category



Short description Description usually by an assigned assigned number, depicting number a ranked change in its colour characteristics as a result of exposure of the material to sunlight or an artificial light source. See Thin filling See Thin filling See Fine filling bar. See Fine filling bar.



LIGHT FILLING LIGHT FILLING BAR LIGHT PICK LIGHT PLACE LIGHT-FAST



defects defects defects defects general



LIGHTSENSITIVE VARNISH



apparatus, equipage, tools



LIGHTWEIGHT CORDS LIGNE



fabrics accessories



A standard measure, equal to 0.635 mm (0.025 in.) by which button and ribbons are measured,



LILLE LACE



fabrics



Very fine textured bobbin lace, with patterns outlined in thicker threads, characterised by a dotted design.



LIMBAKI



fabrics



LIMBRIC



fabrics



A synthetic fabric for swimwear which has a pile. A light weights to medium weight, closely woven, plain weave, cotton cloth made from good quality yarns.



See Thin filling See Thin filling See Fine filling bar. See Fine filling bar. Colour which will not fade Colour which will not fade with normal exposure to with normal exposure to sunlight. sunlight. No colour is entirely fast to light, but some are more resistant than others are A photographic emulsion A photographic emulsion used in the engraved used in the engraved printing roller industry. printing roller industry. It is usually made of a branded polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) emulsion added to a solution of ammoinium bichromate. See under Corduroy. See under Corduroy. A standard measure, equal to 0.635 mm (0.025 in.) by which button and ribbons are measured, i.e. a 10 ligne button is one 6.35 mm (1/4 in.) in diameter Very fine textured bobbin lace, with patterns outlined in thicker threads, characterised by a dotted design. Resembles Mechlin lace. A synthetic fabric for swimwear which has a pile. Handle as for Lycra. A light weights to medium weight, closely woven, plain weave, cotton cloth made from good quality yarns. The weft is coarser and more closely spaced and has a



487 Word



Category



Short description



LIME BOIL



processes, operations processes, operations



See Bowking.



LIME PROCESS



One of the several One of the several methods methods of loosening of loosening wool from skins wool from skins of dead of dead sheep preparatory sheep preparatory to to pulling. The hide is pulling. painted with lime on the flesh side in order to loosen the fibres so that they may be removed easily. An Irish lace, hand-made An Irish lace, hand-made or or machine-made machine-made in which the patterns are embroidered on to the net with a darning stitch. This is a fine lace and not to be confused with Irish Lace. The passage of bleached The passage of bleached fabric through milk of fabric through milk of lime. lime. See Oxygen index. See Oxygen index.



LIMERICK LACE



fabrics



LIMING



processes, operations



LIMITING OXYGEN INDEX (LOI) LIMITING QUALITY LEVEL (LQL)



general



general



In acceptance sampling, the fraction of nonconforming items at which the process average can be considered barely tolerable



LIMP FABRIC



fabrics



A fabric which is too soft



LINCOLN SHEEP



fibers, filaments, yarns



This lustrous long-wool breed, originated in Lincoln County, England



LINE



Description lower twist factor than the warp, thus giving a soft cloth in which the weft predominates on both sides. See Bowking.



accessories, CORDAGE. Laid, cabled, defects or plaited cordage having a diameter of less than 4



In acceptance sampling, the fraction of nonconforming items at which the process average can be considered barely tolerable; the process average at which the risk of acceptance is called the con-sumer’s risk. A fabric which is too soft due to inadequate amounts or improper use of finishing materials. This lustrous long-wool breed, originated in Lincoln County, England, possess the longest staple of any wool grown 1. CORDAGE. Laid, cabled, or plaited cordage having a diameter of less than 4 mm.



488 Word



LINE DRY



LINEAR DENSITY



LINEAR POLYMER



LINEN



Category



Short description mm.



Description 2. FABRIC DEFECT. A narrow variation, often only one thread wide, in the warp direction processes, A method of drying hand A method of drying hand operations washed or machine washed or machine washed washed articles by articles by hanging them on hanging them on a line. a line. general Mass per unit length Mass per unit length; the quotient obtained by dividing the mass of a fibre or yarn by its length. apparatus, A polymer formed by A polymer formed by end-toequipage, end-to-end linking of end linking of molecular tools molecular units. units. The resulting polymer is very long and narrow. It is typical of fibrous forms. fibers, Yarn, thread or fabric Yarn, thread or fabric spun filaments, spun from flax fibres, are from flax fibres, are called yarns, fabrics called linen. They are linen. They are very strong very strong and have and have high lustre. The high lustre yarn can be used for all weights of fabric from fine lawn to suiting and household furnishings. Now, linen yarns have been developed for knitting. Linen fabric structures are limited by the degree of fineness and inextensibility of the fibre, which in turn determine the fineness of the yarn. It is not possible to spin it as finely as cotton yarn. Linen fibres are firmer, more lustrous, more absorbent and rigid, and stronger than cotton. Very du-rable. They are good conductors of heat, burns readily, withstand hot iron and insects. Crease read-ily, as they are rigid. It is to be noted that the yarns may wear with continual sharp creasing with iron. Attacked by mildew. Whereas most fibres



489 Word



Category



Short description



LINEN CANVAS



fabrics



Close and even weave, beige coloured canvas of excellent quality for tailoring use.



LINEN FINISH, SIMULATED



processes, operations



LINEN PROVER



apparatus, equipage, tools



Finishes such as mercerising, calendering, sizing, applied to cotton fabric to give it a linenlike hand. See Counting glass.



Description become weaker when wet, linen becomes 20 % stronger. It is highly absorbent but disperses the moisture into the atmosphere again, and does not absorb body odours. It is there-fore a very comfortable fabric in tropical climates. The beauty and natural lustre of flax is developed and exploited in linen damask fabrics used for table wear. The unevenness of linen yarn is an attrac-tive textural feature in dress fabrics, coupled with the lustre of the fibre. See also Flax. Close and even weave, beige coloured canvas of excellent quality for tailoring use. Used in men’s coats in conjunction with hair canvas. Collar canvas: An open weave, plain dark brown canvas, best made of linen, but sometimes cotton. It is very stiff and is used cut on the cross in case of wide ones and cut on the straight in case nar-rower ones, to interface coat and jacket collars. Does not fray. White canvas: An open weave, slightly stiff fabric made of cotton or, better quality, of linen. Used for white and pale coloured coats and jackets Finishes such as mercerising, calendering, sizing, applied to cotton fabric to give it a linen-like hand. See Counting glass.



490 Word LINEN TESTER



LINEN TWILL



LINEN-LOOK



LINGERIE



LINGERIE KNIT



LINGERIE RIBBON LINING



Category apparatus, equipage, tools fabrics



Short description See Counting glass.



a twill weave line fabric



Description See Counting glass.



As the name implies, a twill weave line fabric, light in weight and used mainly for embroidery. fabrics Made to resemble plainMade to resemble plainweave linen suiting, weave linen suiting, which which were developed were developed when linen when linen became very became very expensive for expensive for dress dress wear. They have the wear. typical uneven slub yarn and crisp even finish. Most have a crease-resist or creaserecovery finish applied to them. Fibre content may be 50 % cotton with the remainder polyester, or they may be mainly viscose fibres. Used for shirt-waister dresses, trousers for men and women. fabrics women’s undergarments. An old term sometimes used for cambric, but now refers to women’s undergarments. fabrics A very wide tricot fabric, A very wide tricot fabric, of of all weights, which is all weights, which is easy to easy to sew. sew. ‘Power net’ is a twoway stretch fabric used for foundation garments. accessories Any type of fine and soft Any type of fine and soft ribbon suitable for use on ribbon suitable for use on ladies’ underwear. ladies’ underwear. fabrics A fabric used to cover the A fabric used to cover the inner sides of garments. inner sides of garments. Lining fabric is made Lining fabric is made from from silk, viscose, silk, viscose, acetate, acetate, triacetate, triacetate, polyester, cupro. polyester, cupro. Fabrics suitable for lining are either plain weave, satin or twill and they are usually slippery to enable the garment to be put on and off with ease. The wearing quality varies with the price. An inexpensive acetate satin will wear for only a short



491 Word



Category



Short description



LININNESS



defects



Longitudinal defects



LINKING



processes, operations



Also called Looping.



LINKING COURSE LINKING DIAL



processes, operations apparatus, equipage, tools



See Slack course A circular metal plate, in a linking machine



Description time, but a silk or polyester satin or pongee will give long service. The weight of lining, is chosen to suit the weight of the fabric and the quality according to the type of garment and its prospective life. For example, a cheap taffeta can be used to line an evening dress. All slippery linings will fray, so do not cut it until ready to use it. Always the lining is made slightly bigger than the garment to avoid strain on lining seams and to avoid a pulled appearance on the right side of the garment. If the lining hem is to be sewn to the garment hem, the lining is made slightly longer to avoid pulling. Longitudinal defects caused by structural distortion in weft-knitted fabric. Also called Looping. The process of joining together the edges of a piece of fabric or fabrics by a single or double chainstitch on a linking machine, in which one or more of the pieces of fabric is run onto the points on a loop-to-point basis and is therefore stitched through adjacent needle loops. Where none of the pieces of fabric are run onto the points on a loop-to-point basis, this id referred to as ‘random linking’. See Slack course A circular metal plate, in a linking machine, with grooved points round the edge facing radially



492 Word



Category



Short description



LINKING MACHINE



apparatus, equipage, tools



LINKS-LINKS LINOLEUM



fabrics garments, made-ups, assemblies



The commonest use of linking machines is for attaching neck ribs to knitwear. See Fancy purl. A floor covering made of a composition of oxidised linseed oil mixed with ground cork and other pigments



LINSEY



fibers, filaments, yarns, fabrics



A term once used to describe any waste or rags containing wool.



LINSEYWOLSEY



fabrics



Formerly known as ‘Linsey-woolsey’. A coarse linen fabric.



LINT



fibers, filaments, yarns



Debris from the textile fibres which accumulates in and around the machinery.



LINT BALL



defects



See Fuzz ball.



Description outwards at a determined frequency (gauge), related to the loop density of the knit-work to be seamed. The commonest use of linking machines is for attaching neck ribs to knitwear. See Fancy purl. A floor covering made of a composition of oxidised linseed oil mixed with ground cork and other pigments, which are rolled over a burlap base. Made in solid colours, mottled and other novelty effects, or printed or inlaid patterns. 1. A term once used to describe any waste or rags containing wool. 2. A coarse fabric with a cotton warp and a blended yarn of cotton and waste wool for the weft. The weave is plain twill, usually in stripes across the width. Used for aprons and overalls. Formerly known as ‘Linseywoolsey’. 1. A coarse linen fabric. 2. A strong, coarse fabric with a linen or cotton warp and a woollen weft. The warp is entirely cov-ered by the weft and has a nap finish. Debris from the textile fibres which accumulates in and around the machinery. A form of waste; fibre fragments abraded from textile materials; also loose short fibres or fluff. See also c and Waste. See Fuzz ball.



493 Word LINT CONTENT



Category fibers, filaments, yarns



LINT COTTON



fibers, filaments, yarns



LINT DOCTOR



apparatus, equipage, tools



A steel blade positioned at the back of an engraved roller-printing machine



LINTERS



fibers, filaments, yarns



Fibres of very short staple length



LIPASESE LIQUID AMMONIA TREATMENT



³ processes, operations



See under Enzymes A later development on mercerising.



LIQUOR RATIO



processes, operations processes, operations



See Liquor : goods ratio.



LIQUOR: GOODS RATIO (LR)



LIRELLE



fibers, filaments, yarns



LISLE



fibers, filaments,



Short description That portion of a mass of cotton fibre consisting of fibre, including normal moisture content, but excluding foreign matter. Loose cotton fibres in any form, either raw or processed



Description That portion of a mass of cotton fibre consisting of fibre, including normal moisture content, but excluding foreign matter. Loose cotton fibres in any form, either raw or processed, free of seeds and not bound together in yarn or fabric. See also Ginned lint A steel blade positioned at the back of an engraved roller-printing machine to scrape off any fluff after printing. Fibres of very short staple length, adhering to the cottonseed after the spinnable lint has been removed by ginning and which is subsequently recovered from the seed by a process called ‘delinting’. This short fibrous material is unsuitable for spinning. See under Enzymes A later development on mercerising. This process produces some of the effects of mercerisation. See also Mercerising. See Liquor : goods ratio.



Also called Goods ratio, Also called Goods ratio, Liquor ratio. Liquor ratio. The ratio of the weight of liquor employed in any treatment to the weight of material treated. Trade name for a Trade name for a polyester polyester fibre with high fibre with high degree of wet degree of wet strength. strength. It is used on its own to make all types of fabric and it also blends well with fibres such as cotton. THREAD. A highly 1. THREAD. A highly twisted, plied, usually 2- twisted, plied, usually 2-ply,



494 Word



Category yarns, fabrics



Short description ply, good quality cotton hosiery yarn, spun generally in fine counts



LIST LISTING



fabrics fabrics, defects



See Selvedge. See Selvedge.



LITHOGRAPHIC PRINTING



processes, operations



Printing from pigment colour adhering to a mixed-wax printed pattern on the level surface



LIVELY YARN



fibers,



See Snarly yarn.



Description good quality cotton hosiery yarn, spun generally in fine counts. All lisle threads are gassed and some may be mercerised. Formerly a lisle thread was a plied yarn having singles of opposite twist. 2. FABRIC. Now superseded by finer synthetics, it was originally a knitted material made with cotton lisle yarns. It was used in large quantities, especially in France, for women’s stockings before the in-vention of nylon. See Selvedge. 1. See Selvedge. 2. An undesirable uneven dyeing effect consisting of a variation in colour between selvedges and the centre of a dyed fabric, often caused in jig dyeing through difference of temperature between sel-vedges and the centre of the batched-up fabric on the jig-roller, or by uneven batching-up of the cloth on the rollers. 3. Spindle tape. A woven narrow fabric of width not greater than 50 mm, usually of high warp den-sity and designed for transmission of power to the spindle wharves of a small diameter, e.g. on tex-tile spinning and twisting machinery. Printing from pigment colour adhering to a mixed-wax printed pattern on the level surface; as distinct from intaglio or relief images. Now rarely used directly on to fabric. See Snarly yarn.



495 Word



LIVERPOOL POCKET LIZARD



LLAMA



Category filaments, yarns garments, made-ups, assemblies fabrics



Short description



Description



A ticket pocket backed with an inside welt.



A ticket pocket backed with an inside welt.



A rigid snake skin, available usually as a trimming.



A rigid snake skin, available usually as a trimming. Mainly used for shoes and handbags. The hair of the fleece of llama, an animal of the camel family similar to alpaca, but slightly larger in size, found in South America. These animals produce long hair, up to 300 mm, depending on the shearing interval. The hair is mixed in quality and colour, white, grey, fawn, brown and even black. In general the hair is softer and less resilient than mohair, but not as soft as camel or cashmere and has a passing lustre. It makes attractive fabrics which are not as expensive as those made from camel and cashmere hair. Used in suitings, coatings, blankets and rugs. To apply a force. Deprecated term; use the preferred term Force. The force required to produce a specified percentage elongation. In textile testing, a relationship between the change in a dimension (in the direction of the applied force) of the specimen, as a result of the use of an external load and the magnitude of that load, expressed graphically. The load may be expressed in pounds or grams, and the



fibers, The hair of the fleece of filaments, llama, an animal of the yarns, fabrics camel family similar to alpaca, but slightly larger in size, found in South America.



LOAD



general



To apply a force.



LOAD AT SPECIFIED ELONGATION LOAD DEFORMATION CURVE



general



The force required to produce a specified percentage elongation. In textile testing, a relationship between the change in a dimension (in the direction of the applied force) of the specimen, as a result of the use of an external load and the magnitude of that load, expressed graphically.



general



496 Word



Category



LOADING



processes, operations



LOAFT



fibers, filaments, yarns



LOCK



fibers, filaments, yarns fabrics



LOCK THREAD CANVAS



Short description



Description deformation in inches or centimetres in compression or tensile tests. In tensile tests, the loaddeformation curve becomes a load-elongation curve or a stress-strain curve, if the load is divided by the linear density of the fibre, yarn or fabric and the extension is plotted as a percentage of the original sample length. Increasing the weight of Increasing the weight of fabrics by addition of fabrics by addition of various various substances substances during finishing. during finishing. A term used to describe A term used to describe the the springiness of wool springiness of wool as it resumes its normal position after it has been squeezed. A tuft of wool A tuft of wool



A lattice-effect embroidery canvas



LOCK-STITCH



general



The simple type of lockstitch is formed with two threads, a needle thread and a bobbin thread



LOCKNIT



fabrics



A fabric made on a warpknitting machine



LODEN CLOTH



fabrics



Originated from Austria and still associated with



A lattice-effect embroidery canvas, very rigid and kept flat by warp threads locked round the weft threads to avoid movement. The simple type of lockstitch is formed with two threads, a needle thread and a bobbin thread, normally balanced so that the interlacing of the two threads is mid-way between the surfaces of the material being sewn. There are other types of lockstitch having more than one needle thread. A fabric made on a warpknitting machine with one needle bar and two full-set guide bars, with specifically controlled movements of the front and back guide-bars. Originated from Austria and still associated with the



497 Word



Category



LOFTY



fibers, filaments, yarns



LOG WOOD



apparatus, equipage, tools



LOI



general



LONDON SHRUNK



processes, operations



LONG AND SHORT STITCH



general



LONG KNOT



defects



LONG SLUG



defects



Short description Description the country, this is a thick country, this is a thick heavy heavy fabric woven from fabric woven from the the fleeces of mountain fleeces of mountain sheep. sheep. Is soft and thick and characteristically dark green in colour. The fabric is also waterproof, because the rough wool used is oily and coarse and prevents water penetration. Used a great deal in mountainous countries for warmth, and all countries for coats, caps, and duffle coats. A term applied to an A term applied to an assemblage of springy assemblage of springy and and fluffy fibres fluffy fibres, with a relatively high degree of openness and resilience, or a large volume for a given mass. A black dyestuff obtained A black dyestuff obtained from a tree grown mainly from a tree grown mainly in in Central and South Central and South America. America. It requires a mordant to unite it to the fabric. See Limiting oxygen See Limiting oxygen index index A process for shrinking A process for shrinking wool wool cloth before tailoring cloth before tailoring is is begun. begun. It consists of hotand-cold water treat-ment, natural drying and pressing without stretching of the fabric, to allow it to assume its relaxed state so as to avoid shrinking later. Alternating long and Alternating long and short short stitches used to fill stitches used to fill in parts in parts of a design or as of a design or as a darning a darning stitch. stitch. In raw silk, knots which In raw silk, knots which have have loose ends from 3 loose ends from 3 to 25 mm to 25 mm in length. in length. In raw silk, a slug which In raw silk, a slug which exceeds 10 mm in length exceeds 10 mm in length or or which is very much which is very much larger in larger in diameter than diameter than the yarn.



498 Word



Category



LONG STAPLE COTTON



fibers, filaments, yarns fibers, filaments, yarns



LONG WOOLS



LONG-STITCH



general



LONGCLOTH



fabrics



LOOK-OVER



general



LOOM



apparatus, equipage, tools



LOOM EFFEICIENCY



general



LOOM FIGURED



fabrics



LOOM FINISHED



fabrics



LOOM FLY



defects



Short description Description the yarn. Cotton fibres 11/3 inches Cotton fibres 11/3 inches or or longer. longer. Those wools which average in length between 1 to 6 inches in staple length. A synonym for Satin stitch. An old-fashioned term referring to the first fabric to be produced in long lengths and rolled.



Those wools which average in length between 1 to 6 inches in staple length. A synonym for Satin stitch. An old-fashioned term referring to the first fabric to be produced in long lengths and rolled. If this term is used now, it simply means a plain-weave cotton, mainly used for handkerchiefs. An inspector, percher, and final inspector of a fabric.



An inspector, percher, and final inspector of a fabric. A mechanical device A mechanical device which which inter-weave yarns inter-weave yarns into a into a fabric. fabric. Usually there are two sets of yarns which are interlaced and these sets are called warp and weft. There are many types of looms, handloom, treadle loom, power loom; the term loom means any weaving machine. The percentage loom The percentage loom running time during running time during normal normal working hours working hours Fabrics having a woven Fabrics having a woven design produced in the design produced in the weaving process weaving process, such as dobby, Jacquard, swivel, as distinguished from printed, embroidered or appliquéd pattern. Fabric marketed in the Fabric marketed in the condition in which it condition in which it comes comes from the loom from the loom, and which is given no further finishing. Also called Flyer. Fabric Also called Flyer. Fabric defect. defect. Waste fibres created



499 Word



Category



Short description



LOOM GOODS



fabrics



LOOM PRODUCTION LOOM SPEED



fabrics



Same as Greige goods or Grey goods. The output of a loom in sq. yards/unit time. Usually measured in picks/min.



LOOM TIMING



LOOM WIDTH



LOOM-STATE



apparatus, equipage, tools apparatus, equipage, tools



apparatus, equipage, tools fabrics



LOOMING



processes, operations



LOONGEE LOOP LOOP DENSITY



fabrics defects fabrics



LOOP FORMING SINKERS



apparatus, equipage, tools fabrics



LOOP LENGTH



LOOP PILE



LOOP RUCHE



garments, made-ups, assemblies accessories



The synchronization of the various loom functions



See Width in reed.



Description during weaving, that are woven into the fabric, or spun into the yarn. Same as Greige goods or Grey goods. The output of a loom in sq. yards/unit time. Usually measured in picks/min. The synchronization of the various loom functions so that they occur in the proper sequence and at the proper relative times. See Width in reed.



The state of a woven fabric when it is just removed from the loom. A term covering the processes involved in the preparing a weaver’s beam for the loom



The state of a woven fabric when it is just removed from the loom. A term covering the processes involved in the preparing a weaver’s beam for the loom, e.g. drawing-in, dropper-pinning, sleying, knotting, tying, etc. Also called Lungi Also called Lungi See Curl. See Curl. The number of loops The number of loops within within an area of fabric an area of fabric expressed expressed as loops per as loops per cm2 or loops cm2 or loops per in2. per in2. See under Sinkers. See under Sinkers.



In pile structures, the In pile structures, the continuous length of yarn continuous length of yarn or or fibres fibres between two successive lowest points of bindings of the pile in a substrate. See under Pile in carpet See under Pile in carpet



See under Ruche.



See under Ruche.



500 Word LOOP SELVEDGE



Category fabrics



LOOP STITCH



general



LOOP TRANSFER



processes, operations



LOOP WHEEL KNITTING MACHINE



apparatus, equipage, tools



LOOP YARN



fibers, filaments, yarns fabrics



LOOP-RAISED FABRIC



LOOPED PILE FLOOR COVERING



garments, made-ups, assemblies



LOOPED SELVEDGES



defects



Short description Description This selvedge retains the This selvedge retains the count at the edges of count at the edges of cloth, cloth the same as body of the cloth. Loop selvedge is principally used by the coating trade. A type of hand stitch A type of hand stitch used used for oversewing for oversewing edges so as edges not to increase their thickness by having an edge turned in. In knitting, the process of In knitting, the process of moving loops, wholly or moving loops, wholly or in in part part, from the needles on which they were made to other needles for the purpose of shaping or design A circular weft knitting A circular weft knitting machine machine in which, knitting takes place on a set of vertically mounted bearded needles, the yarn being manipulated with the aid of bladed wheels. See Curled yarn. See Curled yarn.



A fabric produced from continuous filament yarns,



A fabric produced from continuous filament yarns, generally polyamide, in which the long under-laps of the front or middle bar(s) are raised during finishing to form a pile of unbroken filaments. A pile floor covering in A pile floor covering in which which the pile is the pile is composed of composed of uncut loops uncut loops only. only. Fabric defect. Fabric defect. Looped selvedges are caused by poor or uneven shuttle tension, improperly twisted weft yarn, poorly wound weft bobbins, poor or unbalanced timing of the harness frames



501 Word



Category



Short description



LOOPED YARN LOOPER



defects apparatus, equipage, tools



See Kink In sewing machine. An element on chain stitch machines that is instrumental in forming loops but does not pass through the fabric being seamed.



LOOPER WIRE



apparatus, equipage, tools processes, operations garments, made-ups, assemblies



See Edge wire.



Description of the loom, waste accumulation, chiefly among the loom dropwires on the respective warp yarns. See Kink In sewing machine. An element on chain stitch machines that is instrumental in forming loops but does not pass through the fabric being seamed. Loopers may themselves carry threads that form loop series or may simply aid the formation of needle loops. See Edge wire.



See Linking.



See Linking.



LOOPING LOOPLESS TOE



LOOPY EDGE LOOPY SELVEDGE



defects defects



LOOPY YARN



fibers, filaments, yarns



LOOSE COURSE



defects



The length of yarn in one The length of yarn in one loop of a simple weft loop of a simple weft knitted knitted fabric fabric, usually expressed as an average of several or many measured loops. See Loopy selvedge See Loopy selvedge Fabric defect. Also called Fabric defect. Also called Beaded selvedge, Beaded selvedge, Corded Corded selvedge, Loopy selvedge, Loopy edge, edge, Rough selvedge. Rough selvedge. An improperly woven selvedge of uneven width or a selvage containing irregular weft loops extending beyond the outside selvedges. A textured yarn that is A textured yarn that is essentially free of stretch essentially free of stretch and that is characterised by a relatively large number of randomly spaced and randomly sized loops along the fibres or filaments. See also Bulk yarn, Textured yarn. Fabric defect, in knitted Fabric defect, in knitted fabrics. fabrics. A row of loops in the widthwise direction that is



502 Word



Category



Short description



LOOSE EDGE LOOSE PICK LOST ENDS LOT



defects defects defects general



See Slack selvedge. See Slack pick See Sleepers A production unit or a group of other units or packages which is used for sampling or statistical examination.



LOT SAMPLE



general



One or more shipping units taken at random to represent a consignment



LOURING



processes, operations



In hat manufacture, the improvement in the lustre of felt hoods or bodies



LOUSINE



fabrics



Plain silk fabric with a glossy texture, and a coarse surface like a very small basket weave.



LOUSINESS



defects



Also called Exfoliation



LOUVER CLOTH



fabrics



LOVAT



fabrics



A woven, netting fabric having a mesh size less than 12 by 12, made from coated glass yarn greeny-gray.



Description larger, looser, or longer, than the stitches in the main body of the fabric. See Slack selvedge. See Slack pick See Sleepers A production unit or a group of other units or packages which is used for sampling or statistical examination. A lot has one or more properties in common and is easily separated from other similar units. One or more shipping units taken at random to represent a consignment, shipment or lot, for use in the preparation of the laboratory samples In hat manufacture, the improvement in the lustre of felt hoods or bodies by the application of fat using a hot pad. Plain silk fabric with a glossy texture, and a coarse surface like a very small basket weave. It now often contains synthetic fibres rather than silk. Used for dresses and coat linings. Hardwearing. Also called Exfoliation. An inherent fault in silk only apparent after degumming or dyeing. It id characterised by fine fibrils of fibrillae that become separated from the filament, so giving a speckled, dishevelled appearance. A woven, netting fabric having a mesh size less than 12 by 12, made from coated glass yarn Although this really



503 Word



Category



LOVE



fabrics



LOW CHARGED SYSTEM LOW ORIENTATION YARN



processes, operations fibers, filaments, yarns



LOW-POWER STRETCH



fabrics



LOWE SILK



fibers, filaments, yarns



LOWRY



fibers, filaments, yarns



LOY



fibers, filaments, yarns fabrics processes, operations fibers, filaments, yarns



LOZENGE LR LUBRICATED YARNS



Short description



Description describes a colour, it is often used for woollen overcoating fabric of good quality in typical lovat colour, which is greeny-gray. A very sheer, plain silk A very sheer, plain silk fabric fabric made in U.K. made in U.K. See under Charged See under Charged system system A yarn of low molecular A yarn of low molecular orientation suitable for orientation suitable for orientation by drawing at orientation by drawing at a a high ratio high ratio. This term is used in contrast to Partially oriented yarn and Fully oriented yarn. That property of a fabric That property of a fabric whereby it exhibits high whereby it exhibits high fabric stretch and good fabric stretch and good recovery from low loads. recovery from low loads. An experimental yarn An experimental yarn developed in the early developed in the early 20th 20th century, it was century, it was made of a made of a silk filament silk filament surrounded with surrounded with a rayon a rayon solution. The solution. resulting fibre was one continuous filament which took dye well and possessed the hand and lustre of silk. A cylindrical cotton bale A cylindrical cotton bale made from continuous made from continuous flat flat coil coil, fastened with wire ties and covered with bagging. Its average weight is 250 pounds. See Low oriented yarn. See Low oriented yarn.



See Diamond See Liquor : goods ratio



See Diamond See Liquor : goods ratio



Man-made yarns which Man-made yarns which have have been soaked or been soaked or treated with treated with a lubricant a lubricant so that they will knit more smoothly. Natural fibres may also be lubricated.



504 Word LUCET



Category apparatus, equipage, tools



LUCETTED CORD



accessories



LUG



apparatus, equipage, tools fabrics



LUGGAGE CLOTH



LUMEN



fibers, filaments, yarns



LUMINANCE



general



LUMP



defects, fabrics



LUREX



fibers, filaments, yarns



LUSTERING



processes, operations



Short description Also called Chain fork.



Description Also called Chain fork. A lyre-shaped hand tool of ancient origin, used for making square knitted cords. Square knitted cord Square knitted cord produced with the aid of produced with the aid of a a lucet. lucet. See Bail. See Bail.



Any fabric employed on luggage.



Any fabric employed on luggage. Includes coated cotton fabrics, man-made fibre fabrics and plastics, in a variety of weights and qualities. The central longitudinal The central longitudinal canal or cavity in canal or cavity in vegetable vegetable fibres such as fibres such as cotton. cotton. In a coloured object, In a coloured object, luminance is a measure luminance is a measure of of the apparent overall the apparent overall reflectance. reflectance. For a light source is a measure of the apparent brightness of the light Yarn defect. See Slub, 1. Yarn defect. See Slub, Slug. Slug. 2. A length of unfinished cloth, usually longer than the customary piece length. Trade name for a metallic Trade name for a metallic yarn, produced in various yarn, produced in various colours by coating thin colours by coating thin sheets of aluminium on sheets of aluminium on both both sides, using a sides, using a thermoplastic thermoplastic resin. resin. The yarn is slippery and breaks easily but will not tarnish. It can be incorporated into a variety of woven and knitted fabrics; it is used for embroidering fabrics and it is also made into a sewing thread See Lustring. See Lustring.



505 Word LUSTRE



LUSTRE WOOLS



Category Short description fibers, A property describing the filaments, brilliance of light yarns, fabrics reflection from the surface of yarn or fabric. fibers, A group of five major filaments, wools (Lincoln, Leicester, yarns Romney Marsh, and Cheviot) which originated in the U.K., but, are now grown all over the world



LUSTRING



processes, operations



LUXOR



fabrics



LYCRA



fibers, filaments, yarns



Description A property describing the brilliance of light reflection from the surface of yarn or fabric. A group of five major wools (Lincoln, Leicester, Romney Marsh, and Cheviot) which originated in the U.K., but, are now grown all over the world. There are many subtypes, because of crossbreeding. These wools reflect the rays of light, are rugged, harsh, hardy and make ideal yarn for homespun, tweed, cheviot, and Shetland fabrics, coating, and cap cloth of the English type. A finishing process which A finishing process which produces lustre on yarns produces lustre on yarns or or cloth cloth by heat, pressure, steam and friction calendering with or without chemical aids. Also called Lustering A soft, ribbed, A soft, ribbed, heavyweight heavyweight silk-satin silk-satin or double-faced peau de soie of subdued lustre. Trade name for a twoTrade name for a two-way way stretch spandex stretch spandex fibre. It has fibre. It has remarkable remarkable elasticity and elasticity and instant instant recovery. It is very recovery strong and withstands repeated wash and wear. It has a high resistance to abrasion, but its low absorbency enables articles to dry quickly. Fabrics have a neat, flat appearance. The fibre is resistant to perspiration and is nit affected by seawater. It is mixed with other fibres, only a small percentage required to provide the necessary stretch, recovery and



506 Word



Category



Short description



LYE



apparatus, equipage, tools fibers, filaments, yarns fibers, filaments, yarns



An alkaline liquid used for scouring textile material. Silky, soft long fur of this wild cat; colors vary from fawn to grey. Generic name attributed to the very important and latest fibre, which is of great interest. It is biodegradable and hence, environmental friendly.



LYNX



LYOCELL



Description holding power. Used for foundation garments, tights, sport and exercise wear, swimwear and narrow stretch fabrics. An alkaline liquid used for scouring textile material. Silky, soft long fur of this wild cat; colors vary from fawn to grey. Generic name attributed to the very important and latest fibre, which is of great interest. It is biodegradable and hence, environmental friendly. It is an unique, natural, solvent-spun, 100 % cellulose fibre developed in the later half of twentieth century, for apparel and home fashion. Fibre has exceptional strength in wet or dry state. Has the natural absorbency and comfort of cotton and the strength and ease of care of a synthetic yet it is neither a cotton nor a synthetic. Blends easily with all other fibres. Has the sheen and look of fine mercerised cotton with the drape and fluidity and colour richness of rayon, and other silk-like fabrics, but offer good care characteristics. Lyocell fibres are made entirely of cellulose of wood pulp from trees that are grown on managed forestlands (unsuitable for crops and grazing), which are constantly replanted, specifically for this purpose. In comparison to conventional regenerated cellulose fibres, the lyocell fibre has no skin core



507 Word



Category



LYONS GOLD THREAD



fibers, filaments, yarns fabrics



LYONS VELVET



Short description



Description structure rather it is made up of fibrils of similar thickness across entire cross-section. This fib-rillar structure is formed when the cellulose is precipitated out of the spinning solution as a result of a spinodal decomposition process and is responsible for the excellent properties of the lyocell fibre. Lyocell fibres can be optimised to a large extent for the appropriate application with respect to the titre, cut length and mechanical properties. See also Tencel See under Gold thread See under Gold thread



Fine quality thick velvet Fine quality thick velvet fabric with a stiff, erect, fabric with a stiff, erect, high high pile. pile. The backing may be visible through the pile but it is a good quality fabric. The backing is made from silk or sometimes linen, viscose or cotton. The pile is silk.



M Word MACARONI YARN



Category fibers, filaments, yarns MACCLESFIELD SILK fabrics



MACE SNAG TEST



general



Short description See under Hollowfilament yarn.



Description See under Hollow-filament yarn.



High-textured, High-textured, hardwearing hardwearing spin silk spin silk. The silk yarn is twisted to give a crêpy texture. Fabric is traditionally striped or smallpatterned. Used for men’s ties and women’s classic shirts. Fairly crisp. A means of evaluating A means of evaluating the the snagging snagging performance of a performance of a fabric in its ultimate use. A



508 Word



Category



Short description fabric in its ultimate use.



Description representative specimen of the fabric to be tested is mounted on a revolving drum; the spikes of a miniature mace track at random across the sample MACHINE BARRÉ defects Also called Feeder Also called Feeder variation. Fabric variation. Fabric defect. A defect. course which differs in appearance from normal courses in a fabric knitted on a multi-feeder machine. It is caused by one feeder not delivering the same length of yarn as the other feeders. MACHINE COTTON accessories A term used in the A term used in the U.K. for U.K. for cotton thread cotton thread for sewing for sewing machines machines MACHINE DRAW fibers, See under Draw ratio. See under Draw ratio. RATIO filaments, yarns MACHINE processes, See Mill engraving See Mill engraving ENGRAVING operations MACHINE FINISHING processes, See under Boarding. See under Boarding. operations Also called Heavy colour. MACHINE STOP defects Also called Heavy colour. Printing defect. Printing defect. Excess colour smudged in a Excess colour widthways band. It is often smudged in a caused by the stopping of a widthways band. printing machine allowing more paste than normal to penetrate the fabric. MACHINE TWIST fibers, A thread processsed A thread processsed for filaments, for use on sewing use on sewing machines. yarns machines. MACHINE fabrics A textile article that A textile article that can be WASHABLE can be washed in a washed in a domestic domestic washing washing machine to machine remove dirt and other extraneous substances using an aqueous detergent solution. MACHINE-MADE general An article that is made An article that is made entirely by machine entirely by machine, as distinguished from



509 Word



Category



Short description



MACKINAC MACKINAW



fabrics fabrics



See Mackinaw. Sometimes called ‘mackinac’, this is a heavy woollen fabric, heavily felted and napped on both sides, so that no weave is apparent on the surface.



MACKINTOSH



fabrics



A waterproof coating no longer in use, which was named after its inventor.



MACO YARN



fibers, filaments, yarns fabrics



A cotton yarn made of natural coloured Egyptian staple fibre. A revived craft with modern application, this was originally a Spanish knotted lace in geometric patterns, often with fringed ends.



MACRAMÉ LACE



Description handmade and handfinished. See Mackinaw. Sometimes called ‘mackinac’, this is a heavy woollen fabric, heavily felted and napped on both sides, so that no weave is apparent on the surface. The construction is similar to ‘Melton’, except that Mackinaw is often woven in large checks and in coarser woolen yarns. Used in cold climates for blankets, cloaks, and lumber jackets. In addition to cheaper woolen yarn, other fibres such as cotton and waste yarns may be included. A waterproof coating no longer in use, which was named after its inventor. It was rubber on cotton with adhesive to join the two. The rubber perished in a short time and the fabric could not ‘breathe’ and so caused condensation. Now the name mackintosh has become generic to a waterproof coat, whatever the fabric. A cotton yarn made of natural coloured Egyptian staple fibre. A revived craft with modern application, this was originally a Spanish knotted lace in geometric patterns, often with fringed ends. Any thread, yarn, wool or string may be used to produce fine or coarse designs. The threads are anchored to a board which may have a paper pattern on it. Motifs may be made or complete



510 Word



Category



Short description



MACROMOLECULE



general



A large molecule formed by hooking together many small molecular units.



MADAPOLAM



fabrics



MADRAS COTTON



fabrics



A bleached or dyed plain cotton fabric with a soft finish in any of a wide range of qualities used for ladies wear. Soft cotton fabric, rather like gingham, but including more colors



MADRAS MUSLIN



fabrics



A gauze fabric with an extra weft, which is bound into the gauze texture in the figured parts and cut away elsewhere.



MADRAS SHIRTING



fabrics



Fine, lightweight, and often colorful, cotton fabric of better quality than Madras cotton.



Description items such as mats, bags, etc. A large molecule formed by hooking together many small molecular units. The term can be used synonymously with ‘polymolecule’ or polymer. A bleached or dyed plain cotton fabric with a soft finish in any of a wide range of qualities used for ladies wear. Soft cotton fabric, rather like gingham, but including more colors. Is often rough and unfinished and colors bleed when washed. It is also inclined to fade. A gauze fabric with an extra weft, which is bound into the gauze texture in the figured parts and cut away elsewhere. It has a fine and open gauze foundation of cotton, with figured textures and design in thick, soft, spun, weft threads. In better quality fabric, two or more different colors are introduced. An inexpensive fabric, used for saris, blouses, nightwear. Creases easily. Often in border designs. Gathers and drapes well in full styles. See also Muslin. Fine, lightweight, and often colorful, cotton fabric of better quality than Madras cotton. Fabric is plain with woven stripes in satin weave, which may be in another fibre such as viscose, or in an expensive fabric, like silk. Used for men’s shirts, women’s dresses. Often a one-way



511 Word



Category



Short description



MAGANANERIC



general



MAGAZINE



apparatus, equipage, tools processes, operations



A room or building where silkworms are raised. A device capable of holding many yarn packages. A special form of creel in which the tail end of one package is tied to the leading end of the next. A type of automatic loom in which the loom takes the empty bobbin from the shuttle and auto-matically replaces it with a new, full bobbin into the same shuttle.



MAGAZINE CREELING



MAGAZINE LOOM



apparatus, equipage, tools



MAGNET-ROLL SYSTEM



processes, operations



MAGYAR SLEEVE



garments, made-ups, assemblies



Description stripe. A room or building where silkworms are raised. A device capable of holding many yarn packages. A special form of creel in which the tail end of one package is tied to the leading end of the next.



A type of automatic loom in which the loom takes the empty bobbin from the shuttle and auto-matically replaces it with a new, full bobbin into the same shuttle. This exchange is made without stopping the loom. In this case, the weaver is restricted to one shuttle and one colour warp yarn (called ‘battery type’). Another new type, can use four colours in the warp. These type looms speed production and one weaver can be made responsible for 24 to 48 automatic looms. A method, used in A method, used in some some screen printing screen printing machines, machines whereby squeegees (in the form of cylindrical metal rods, varying in diameter from 3 to 18 mm., placed loosely in the screen with the printpaste), are moved along by means of magnet coils under the printing blanket, which draw the printpaste through the mesh of the screen. A sleeve which is cut A sleeve which is cut integrally with the body integrally with the body of of the garment, the the garment, the two two sections being sections being joined from



512 Word



Category



Short description Description joined from neck to neck to wrist over the wrist over the shoulder shoulder and from sideand from side-seam to seam to wrist. Wedgewrist. shaped pieces are inserted un-der the arm to allow freedom of movement. MAIL CLOTH fabrics A highly finished, A highly finished, heavyweight silk fabric heavyweight silk fabric woven in a woven in a honeycomb honeycomb effect. effect. Used for embroidery foundations. MAIL NET fabrics A net made in a leno A net made in a leno weave, which weave, which produces a produces a mesh, mesh, which looks which looks triangular. triangular. MAIN SHAFT apparatus, Most sewing machines Most sewing machines are equipage, are belt driven and the belt driven and the driver pulley is attached to a shaft tools driver pulley is attached to a shaft in in the machine. This is the main shaft and from its the machine. rotation, all the movements of the mechanisms are derived. MAINTENANCE fibers, See under Fibre See under Fibre properties filaments, properties yarns MAJOR DEFECT defects See under Defect. See under Defect. MAJOR DEFECTS IN defects See under Garment See under Garment GARMENT defects. defects. MAKE fabrics A term applied to the A term applied to the construction of fabric. construction of fabric. MAKE THROUGH processes, The traditional method The traditional method of operations of garment garment manufacture, in manufacture which one operator completely assembles one garment at a time MAKING-UP processes, The conversion of The conversion of fabrics operations fabrics into garments. into garments. MALABAR fabrics An Indian cotton fabric An Indian cotton fabric made in very bright made in very bright colours, colours used almost entirely in the manufacture of handkerchiefs. It creases easily. MALBOROUGH fabrics A very smooth French A very smooth French wool wool serge with small serge with small designs. designs. Made with hard twist, single



513 Word



Category



Short description



MALIMO



fabrics



A type of fabric constructed and produced at great speed by using three sets of yarns; warp yarns, weft yarns laid across the warp, and a third system, which stitches them together.



MALINES



fabrics



One of the very oldest types of fabric.



MALINO



fibers, filaments, yarns



MALMAL MALTESE



MALTESE EMBROIDERY



A strong, very long leaf fibre obtained from the aloe plant in Hawaii. fabrics See Mulmul. fibers, A fine yellow silk filaments, thread formerly used yarns in England to secure gold threads embroidery. processes, Needlework consisting operations of small tassels worked over a surface of heavy materials.



Description warp, with an approximately equal number of ends and picks per inch. This fabric is also made in England where it is called Marlborough A type of fabric constructed and produced at great speed by using three sets of yarns; warp yarns, weft yarns laid across the warp, and a third system, which stitches them together. Technically this fabric is neither woven nor knitted. Is very stable, and does not move or ‘give’. It is often ribbed in appearance. It is mainly acrylic but other fibres may be used. Used for curtains, tablecloths for indoors and out, bedspreads, chair covers. As yet, it is not attractive as dress fabric. Inclined to ‘pill’ if subjected to constant wear. Also called Stitch bonded fabric One of the very oldest types of fabric. The term is used to describe a variety of fine diaphanous silk, lace and net fabrics. A strong, very long leaf fibre obtained from the aloe plant in Hawaii. Used for cordage. See Mulmul. A fine yellow silk thread formerly used in England to secure gold threads embroidery. Needlework consisting of small tassels worked over a surface of heavy materials. Used for bedspreads and curtains.



514 Word MALTESE LACE



Category fabrics



MAMMAL



fabrics



MAN-MADE FIBRES



fibers, filaments, yarns



Short description Similar to ‘cluny lace’ in appearance, Maltese lace is heavy and often incorporates regular wheel designs and squares.



Description Similar to ‘cluny lace’ in appearance, Maltese lace is heavy and often incorporates regular wheel designs and squares. Used mainly in small areas such as corners of handkerchiefs and table linen. A general term used in A general term used in India and China for India and China for fine, fine, plain muslins. plain muslins. Also called Manufactured Also called fibre. All fibres and Manufactured fibre. All fibres and filaments filaments manufactured by manufactured by man, man, as distinct from the as distinct from the naturally occurring fibres. A class name for various naturally occurring genera of fibres (including fibres. filaments) produced from fibre-forming substances which may be natural polymer (modified or transformed natural polymers) synthetic polymer (polymers synthesized by man from simple chemical compounds) or others, viz. glasses, etc. First generation man-made fibres: Regenerated natural polymers as opposed to completely syn-thesized materials. The basic technology for man-made fibres are inventions of chemists. The first phase of development of these fibres supplemented and simulated those grown by nature. These fi-bres were made in only one form. Second generation manmade fibres: Modified fibres with improvements in both performance and aesthetic characteristics. Fibres designed for any particular end use; generic fibres



515 Word



MAN-MADE STAPLE FIBRE



MANDREL



MANDRENAQUE



MANDRIL



MANGLE



MANILA HEMP



MANUFACTURE OF



Category



Short description



Description made in many forms each intended to be applied to a particular product. Third generation man-made fibres: Custom tailored fibres for specialized markets. The qualities of performance and aesthetics are built into the fibres in the production stage. fibers, Fibre of spinnable Fibre of spinnable length filaments, length manufactured manufactured directly or by yarns directly or by cutting cutting filaments. filaments. In printing, a supporting apparatus, In printing, a steel bar on which the equipage, supporting steel bar on engraved copper cylinder tools which the engraved runs. Same as Mandril. copper cylinder runs. A Philippine fabric made fabrics A Philippine fabric with a cotton warp and made with a cotton palm fibre weft. warp and palm fibre weft. apparatus, Same as Mandrel. Same as Mandrel. equipage, tools apparatus, . A machine for 1. A machine consisting of equipage, smoothening cloth by two or more squeeze rollers tools roller pressure. (bowls) often heated and used in combina-tion with an open vat of water or some other solution in washing of fabrics, starching, back-filling, etc. 2. A machine for smoothening cloth by roller pressure. Fibres from Manila hemp fibers, Fibres from Manila filaments, hemp (‘musa textilis’), (‘musa textilis’), grown in the Philippines. Used for yarns grown in the flexible, durable ropes and Philippines. cables. Some fibres are used without spinning for hats and shoes. Carpets and tablemats also are made from it. Also called Abaca. fibers, There are three basic There are three basic



516 Word MAN-MADE FIBRES



Category filaments, yarns



MANUFACTURED FIBRE



fibers, filaments, yarns fibers, filaments, yarns



MANUFACTURER’S TWIST



Short description Description techniques by which a techniques by which a man-made fibre can be man-made fibre can be produced, but all produced, but all three are variations on a single three are variations on technique using the a single technique spinneret. Polymer is the using the spinneret base or substance from which the spinning solution is made. A polymer is the union of simple molecules which are processed into a giant macro-molecule. Solvent method: A polymer solution in a solvent can be forced through the tiny holes of a spin-neret into warm air. The solvent evaporates in the warm air and the liquid stream solidifies into a continuous filament. Wet method: A polymer solution can be forced through the tiny holes of a spinneret into another solution where it is coagulated into a continuous filament. Melt method: A solid polymer can be melted and forced through the tiny holes of a spinneret into cool air, which solidifies into a continuous filament. See Man-made fibre See Man-made fibre



A fibre, filament, yarn or cord which has a slack twist



A fibre, filament, yarn or cord which has a slack twist, imparted by the manufacturer, i.e. two, four or five turns per inch. A woven narrow fabric MAPLELEAF BRAID accessories A woven narrow fabric similar to Oakleaf braid, but similar to Oakleaf braid, but with a maple with a maple leaf pattern. leaf pattern. MARABOUT fabrics Delicate thin silk fabric Delicate thin silk fabric made from twisted raw made from twisted raw silk.



517 Word



Category



MARBLE SILK



fabrics



MARCELINE



fabrics



MARCELLA



fabrics



MARENA



fibers, filaments, yarns fibers, filaments, yarns fibers, filaments, yarns



MARINE COTTON



MARINE FIBRE



MARINE STRIPES



fabrics



MARK OFF



defects



Short description silk



Description Used for blouses, linings, and lampshades. Soft lightweight silk Soft lightweight silk fabric fabric with a mottled or with a mottled or marbled marbled appearance appearance. This effect may be achieved by the use of multicolored yarns or by warp printing. Used for blouses, as a lining fabric, and for lampshades. Also known as Also known as ‘merceline’. ‘merceline’. Light, thin silk fabric that is almost transparent. Used for lining hats and lightweight clothes. A fancy or figured A fancy or figured fabric of fabric of piqué piqué structure. Also called structure. Waffle piqué. See Collagen fibre. See Collagen fibre.



A cotton fabric made in Syria.



A cotton fabric made in Syria.



A weak, brittle fibre A weak, brittle fibre obtained from Poisdonia obtained from austrails, marine plant Poisdonia austrails, found Australia. marine plant found Australia. A calico shirting of good A calico shirting of good quality, made quality, made with blue and with blue and white white stripes of equal width. Produced in England. stripes of equal width. Fabric defect. 1. Fabric defect. An undesirable transference of colour caused by contact between a dyed or printed fabric and another fabric or itself. 2. Defect on a finished fabric, identified by a decided change where the fabric is rubbed or scratched lightly with the fingernail or other article which does not transfer colour to the fabric.



518 Word MARKER



Category garments, made-ups, assemblies



Short description In garment manufacturing, the representation or drawing of the final arrangement of the patterns of the component parts of a garment or garments in the form of a master plan for cutting, intended to make the best use of the material.



Description In garment manufacturing, the representation or drawing of the final arrangement of the patterns of the component parts of a garment or garments in the form of a master plan for cutting, intended to make the best use of the material. The marker is placed on the lay prior to cutting to determine the location of pieces of garment and to guide the cutter. Also called ‘lay marker’ A trade term for bleached, MARKET BLEACH fabrics A trade term for starched and calendered bleached, starched and calendered cotton cotton fabrics, but not dyed or printed. fabrics, but not dyed or printed. MARKING COTTON fibers, A cotton embroidery A cotton embroidery thread filaments, thread used for used for outlining, generally yarns outlining, generally dyed blue or red. dyed blue or red. MARKING STITCH general Another name for Another name for CrossCross-stitch. stitch. MARKING THREAD fibers, A distinctively coloured A distinctively coloured filaments, sewing thread, with a sewing thread, with a high fastness to washing, yarns high fastness to washing, bleaching bleaching and dry-cleaning solvents, used specially by and dry-cleaning commercial launderers for solvents stitching their identification symbols on to textile items being cleaned. The process of marking MARKING-IN processes, The process of around the component operations marking around the component garment garment patterns with chalk patterns with chalk or or other means to indicate where fabric is to be cut. other means to indicate where fabric is The term can also apply to marking with pencil when to be cut. making paper markers. MARL EFFECT YARN fibers, Two single, continuous Two single, continuous filaments, filament yarns, of filament yarns, of different yarns different solid colours solid colours or dyeing or dyeing properties properties (subsequently (subsequently dyed) dyed) doubled together.



519 Word MARLBOROUGH MARLED YARN



MARMOT



MAROCAIN



MARQUISE FINISH



MARQUISETTE



Category



Short description doubled together. See Malborough. Also called Mottled yarn. A marled yarn is produced by combining two slubbings or rovings of different color or luster.



Description See also Ingrain yarn. fabrics See Malborough. Also called Mottled yarn. A fibers, marled yarn is produced by filaments, combining two slubbings or yarns rovings of different color or luster. Two different colored threads are woven together, not necessarily in equal quantities, to form a marled yarn. See also Colour terms, Worsted fibers, Cheap fur from a small Cheap fur from a small filaments, rodent. rodent. Is not used in its yarns original state, but dyed to imitate more expensive furs, such as mink. fabrics A crêpe fabric with a A crêpe fabric with a pronounced weftways pronounced weftways rib rib formed by the use of a fine close-sett warp and a highly twisted weft, picked two Z- and two S-twisted yarns. processes, A high lustre finish A high lustre finish given to operations given to fine cotton fine cotton satin fabrics. satin fabrics. fabrics WOVEN. An open, 1. WOVEN. An open, loose fabric woven in a leno loose fabric woven in a construction, sometimes leno construction, sometimes with spots with spots or other de-signs included. Can be made or other de-signs from cotton, silk or wool, included. but is now mainly glassfibre nylon or polyester and made as a curtain fabric. Prone to shrink. 2. WARP-KNITTED. A square-hole net produced from two or three guide bars each using a full-set threading, the front bar making a chaining movement and the second and third bars laying-in so that they connect the chains or pillars (see Pillar stitch) generally every third



520 Word



Category



Short description



Description course. MARQUISETTE SEWfabrics See under Sew-in See under Sew-in woven IN woven interfacing. interfacing. A defect consisting of a MARRIED FIBRE accessories A defect consisting of group of unopened CLUMP a group of unopened coterminus crimped coterminus crimped fibres. This defect occurs in confibres. verter top. MARRIED YARN fibers, See Spinners’ double. See Spinners’ double. filaments, yarns A double-faced cotton MARSEILLES fabrics A double-faced cotton quilting made in plain quilting made in plain Jacquard weave, with a Jacquard weave, with raised, woven pattern; a raised, woven named after the city in pattern; named after France. It is usually made the city in France. with two sets of weft, one fine and one coarse, and one fine warp. The plain ground is composed of the fine threads; the coarse ply weft floats to form the raised figures. It is produced chiefly in two styles; all white, and white figures on a coloured ground. Used for bedspreads and vesting MARSEILLES fabrics The quilting design The quilting design used in WEAVE used in vestings and vestings and other small other small patterned patterned quilted fabrics. quilted fabrics. A fine, lustrous, creamy MARTINIQUE fibers, A fine, lustrous, white fibre yielded form ABUTILON filaments, creamy white fibre Abutilon auretum found yarns yielded form Abutilon auretum found chiefly chiefly in Martinique. It has an average length of 5 to 6 in Martinique. feet. MARVEL METER apparatus, An electrical device An electrical device that equipage, that counts the counts the courses in a tools courses in a knitted knitted fabric such as finefabric denier nylon hosiery and full-fashioned fabrics for outerwear. MASI CLOTH fabrics I A fabric made from A fabric made from the bark the bark of the masi of the masi tree in the Fiji



521 Word



Category



MASS



general



MASS COLOURATION



processes, operations



MASS PIGMENTATION



processes, operations



MAT



MATCHING



Short description Description tree in the Fiji islands islands and used locally. and used locally. Quantity of matter in Quantity of matter in body. body. See also Weight. Also called Dope dyeing, Also called Dope Solution dyeing and Spun dyeing, Solution dyeing. Process of dyeing dyeing and Spun of manufactured fibres in dyeing. the spinning stage itself. Significant quantities of filament are coloured by mass pig-mentation methods in which heatstable pigment particles are dispersed in the molten polymer prior to extrusion into filaments. This is a particularly suitable method for olefin fibres that are too hydrophobic to be coloured from an aqueous dyebath, but it may also be used for polyester, nylon and viscose fibres. Other colourants are dissolved in the fibre-forming polymer and remain ‘in situ’ after conversion of the polymer to filament. A further variation used for acrylic fibres is to bring the freshly extruded filament into contact with a solution of basic dye before the filament is allowed to dry out. This process is referred to as Pro-ducer dyeing. A form of mass A form of mass colouration colouration in which a in which a pigment is used. pigment is used. See Rug. 1. See Rug. 2.See Hopsack.



fabrics, garments, made-ups, assemblies processes, A comparison of dyed operations samples of textiles of nominally the same



1. A process in which the amount of each colouring matter presents in a



522 Word



Category



Short description colour.



MATCHINGS



fibers, filaments, yarns fabrics



Wool that has been sorted.



MATELASSÉ



The word means ‘quilted’ in French. A pouching or quilted effect fabric, it is a double or compound cloth, with a raised or puckered design effect on the face caused by the reaction of different shrinkages of face and back fabrics during finishing.



Description material is adjusted so that the final colour resembles that of a given sample as closely as possible. 2. A comparison of dyed samples of textiles of nominally the same colour. Both the above can be done by eye or by using instruments that measure chromatically coordi-nates. Wool that has been sorted.



The word means ‘quilted’ in French. A pouching or quilted effect fabric, it is a double or compound cloth, with a raised or puckered design effect on the face caused by the reaction of different shrinkages of face and back fabrics during finishing. The original type of this was quite heavy and used for coatings but lighter types are now made which are perhaps more like blister fabrics than the true matelasse and the raised effect is obtained by the use of synthetic fibre yarns which have not been heat stabilized and which contract in finishing. This enables a strong back shrinkage effect to be obtained without the use of heavy compound or double structure. In one type, the cloth consists of warp and weft with an extra weft, used as padding and held in place by an extra stitching warp. The raised effect is achieved by the weaves. The back of the cloth is a fine, loosely woven web of



523 Word



Category



Short description



MATERIAL



general



Substance, units, parts of which an item is made.



MATKA



fabrics



MATRIX



apparatus, equipage, tools



An Indian fabric made of spun silk. The form or mould on which something is shaped.



MATRIX-FIBRIL



fibers, filaments, yarns



A man-made fibre composed of two or more chemically distinct components



MATT



fabrics, fibers, filaments, yarns fabrics



Textile where the normal lustre has been reduced.



MATT JERSEY



A jersey fabric of almost any weight with a dull surface



Description warp and weft interfacing. The fabric is often made on a dobby or Jacquard loom. The fibres used may be silk, viscose, acetate, nylon, polyester or combinations. The fabric may also contain metallic threads. Others may be made from cotton yarn and used for curtains and bedspreads. In Dress fabrics, the designs are usually elaborate and the fabric may be fairly stiff. Furnishing Fabric, usually is heavy. Substance, units, parts of which an item is made. Synonyms are fibres, fabric, cloth, goods. An Indian fabric made of spun silk. The form or mould on which something is shaped. In textile printing, it is a solid steel cylinder, or one of inflatable rubber, on which rotary screens are formed. A man-made fibre composed of two or more chemically distinct components. A matrix-fibril fibre is composed of fine, short filaments (fibrils) that are embedded in the matrix (the rest of the fibre). See also Bicomponent fibres 1. Textile where the normal lustre has been reduced. 2. See Hopsack. 3. See under Delustred. A jersey fabric of almost any weight with a dull surface due to the fact that



524 Word



Category



Short description



Description it is knitted from crêpe yarns. MATT WEAVE fabrics See Basket weave See Basket weave A great variety of plaited or MATTING garments, A great variety of made-ups, plaited or woven mats woven mats and similar articles made of coir fibre, assemblies and similar articles made of coir fibre, jute, jute, straw. Used floor or wall covering table mats, straw. etc. MATURE FIBRE fibers, See under Cotton See under Cotton maturity. filaments, maturity. yarns MATURITY INDEX fibers, A relative indication of A relative indication of filaments, cotton fibre maturity. cotton fibre maturity. yarns A method of expressing, MATURITY RATIO fibers, A method of numerically, the maturity of filaments, expressing, a sample of cotton fibres. It yarns numerically, the maturity of a sample of is the ratio of the actual degree of the wall cotton fibres. thickening to a standard degree of thickening equal to 0.577. See also Percentage maturity. MATURITY, COTTON fibers, See Cotton maturiy See Cotton maturiy filaments, yarns MAUD garments, Term has now fallen Term has now fallen into made-ups, into disuse disuse, but it used to assemblies describe checked woollen traveling rugs woven in different shades of gray. MAURITIUS FIBRE fibers, Also called Mauritius Also called Mauritius hemp. filaments, hemp. A fibre from the leaf of the yarns plant ‘Furcraea fifante’. MAYO TWILL fabrics See Campbell twill See Campbell twill MAYPOLE PROCESS processes, A process of braiding A process of braiding, using operations a machine which is provided with three or more carriers which are driven by means of horn gears along tracks which cross at intervals enabling the yarn drawn from the carriers to interlace to form a braid. MEALY fabrics Descriptive of the Descriptive of the appearance of a print appearance of a print or



525 Word



Category



Short description Description or dyeing which shows dyeing which shows small small irregularities, irregularities, rather like rather like oatmea oatmeal, caused, e.g. by too much printing paste on the fabric from too deep an engraving, unsatisfactory fabric preparation, etc. MEAN DEVIATION general See also Unevenness In textiles, the average of UNEVENNESS, U% and Coefficient of the absolute values of the variation unevenness. linear densities of the integrated lengths between which unevenness is measured and expressed as a percentage of the average linear density for the total length within which unevenness is measured. See also Unevenness and Coefficient of variation unevenness. MEASURE CUTTLE processes, The cutting of a The cutting of a garment to operations garment to individual individual measurements. measurements. MEASURES AND general Measures and weights Measures and weights WEIGHTS usually used in textile usually used in textile industry. industry. A machine used to MEASURING DEVICE apparatus, A machine used to equipage, measure lengths of measure lengths of yarn or cloth as it passes through tools yarn or cloth as it the device. passes through the device. MEATY COTON fibers, A clean cotton with A clean cotton with good filaments, good spinning quality. spinning quality. There is yarns little loss or waste because of sand, leaf or short fibres MECHANICAL fabrics See Industrial fabrics. See Industrial fabrics. FABRICS The process of applying MECHANICAL processes, The process of mechanical energy to FINISHING operations applying mechanical energy to textiles to textiles to impart functional and/or aesthetic impart functional characteristics, e.g. and/or aesthetic shearing, calendering. characteristics, e.g. shearing, calendering. MECHANICAL processes, See Slack See Slack mercerization. STRETCH operations mercerization. MECHLIN LACE fabrics Soft, filmy lace in Soft, filmy lace in which



526 Word



Category



Short description Description which even the denser even the denser decoration decoration is filmy. is filmy. Often used for bridal veils. MECHLIN MACHINE apparatus, See under Lace See under Lace machines equipage, machines tools MED FIBRE fibers, A modulated animal A modulated animal fibre in filaments, fibre which the diameter of the yarns medulla is less than 60% of the diameter of the fibre MEDALLION accessories A single detached A single detached motif motif design. design. It may be appliquéd to a lace ground or foundation fabric. MEDALLION LACE fabrics Motifs are made or cut Motifs are made or cut from from a piece of heavy a piece of heavy lace and lace and inserted into inserted into cloth. Used in lingerie, table linen. cloth. Used in lingerie, table linen. MEDIUM STAPLE fibers, Fibres 1 to 1½ inches Fibres 1 to 1½ inches long. COTTON filaments, long. yarns MEDIUM WOOLS fibers, Those wools which 1. Those wools which filaments, average in length average in length between yarns between long and long and short wools. Short short wools. wool ranges from 1 to 6 inches; and long wool is from 6 to 12 or more inches in staple length. 2. Sometimes refers to the general quality of wool and includes wool that is high 1/4 blood, 3/8 blood, and low 1/2 blood wool. MEDULLA fibers, The central portion of The central portion of some filaments, some animal fibres animal fibres consisting of a yarns consisting of a series series of cavities formed by of cavities formed by the medullary cells which collapse during the growth the medullary cells which collapse during process. In some fibres, e.g. wool and kemp, the the growth process. medulla forms the greatest portion of the fibre and is surrounded by a comparatively thin layer of cortex. MEDULLATED FIBRE fibers, An animal fibre that in An animal fibre that in its



527 Word



MEISEN



Category filaments, yarns fabrics



MÉLANGE PRINTING processes, operations



MÉLANGE YARN



fibers, filaments, yarns



MELDABLE FIBRES



fibers, filaments, yarns fabrics



MELDED FABRIC



MELROSE



MELT BLLOWING



Short description Description its original state original state includes a includes a medulla medulla Plain-weave Plain-weave lightweight lightweight Japanese Japanese silk fabric, with a silk fabric blurred pattern achieved by coloring the yarns before weaving them. Used for blouses, dresses. A printing process in A printing process in which bands of thickened which bands of thickened dyepaste, dyepaste, with intervening with intervening blank blank areas, are applied across slubbings of wool or areas, are applied across slubbings of other fibres. The slubbing is subsequently steamed, wool or other fibres washed, and then combed to produce a very even mixture of dyed and undyed lengths of fibre. Also called Vig-oureux printing. A yarn produced by A yarn produced by mélange printing of mélange printing of tops or tops or slivers. slivers. It is distinguishable from a mixture yarn in that individual fibres carry more than one colour. See also Colour terms, Worsted. See Hetrofil fibres See Hetrofil fibres



A fabric consisting wholly or in part of bicomponent fibres



A fabric consisting wholly or in part of bicomponent fibres, in which cohesion has been achieved through the selective melting of one component of the of the bicomponent fibres. fabrics A double twill fabric A double twill fabric with a with a silk warp and a silk warp and a wool warp. wool warp. A process in which a processes, A process in which a polymer is melt-extruded operations polymer is meltextruded through a die through a die into a high velocity stream of hot air into a high velocity stream of hot air which which converts it into fine and relatively short fibres. converts it into fine After quenching by a cold and relatively short



528 Word



MELT DYEING



MELT FRACTURE



MELT METHOD



MELT SPINNING



MELTON



Category



Short description fibres.



processes, Colouring of manoperations made fibres (yarn, tow, staple) by the use of pigments or insoluble dyes into the polymermelt or spinning solution before extrusion. fibers, An unstable meltfilaments, spinning condition yarns



fibers, filaments, yarns processes, operations



fabrics



See under Manufacture of manmade fibres. The fibre-forming material may be rendered liquid by heating it until it melts.



Description air stream the fibres are collected as a sheet on a moving screen. Colouring of man-made fibres (yarn, tow, staple) by the use of pigments or insoluble dyes into the polymer-melt or spinning solution before extrusion. Usually colours are fast to most destructive elements An unstable melt-spinning condition in which the surface of the extrudate becomes rough and irregular. See under Manufacture of man-made fibres.



The fibre-forming material may be rendered liquid by heating it until it melts. The molten material is extruded through a spinneret and the jets are hardened as they cool on emerging from the spinneret. See also Dry spinning and Wet spinning. Firm medium weight Firm medium weight wool fabric in a close plain wool fabric in a close weave, with a short dense plain weave, with a non-directional nap. Is dull short dense nonin appearance and comes directional nap. in white and all men’s suiting colours. It used to be a coating fabric, but it is now mainly used as an aid to tailoring, because it does not fray. These fabrics are made from all wool, or from cotton warp and woolen weft and the weave - usu-ally a simple twill - is completely hidden by the surface fibre which developed in finishing by mill-ing the fabric to make it compact



529 Word



Category



MELTONNETTE



fabrics



MEMORY



MENDING



MERCELINE MERCERISED FINISH MERCERISED STRIPE



Short description



Description and then raising and cropping the surface nap. Very heavy types are made for overcoatings but lighter and cheaper types are used by tailors for lining the underside of collars. A lightweight fabric which resembles melton cloth, and is used for women’s wear.



A lightweight fabric which resembles melton cloth, and is used for women’s wear. fabrics A cured fabric’s ability A cured fabric’s ability to retain, or return to, the to retain, or return to, the shape or condition shape or condition it was in it was in at the time of at the time of curing. If the sensitizing chemical is set curing. in the fabric when it is flat, the fabric will remember its flatness and will resist creases, pleats, puckering and other bending influences. If the sensitizing chemical set after the fabric has been made into a garment, the fabric will remember to return to its shape as a finished garment. processes, Also called Darning. Also called Darning. The operations insertion of yarn into a woven fabric where the warp or weft is missing and also the correction of other faults by means of needlework e.g. stitching. This is a skilled manual needlework operation. fabrics Same as Marceline. Same as Marceline. processes, See Mercerization. See Mercerization. operations fabrics A fabric, generally a A fabric, generally a cotton cotton shirting or dress shirting or dress fabric, fabric, which contains, which contains, stripes of stripes of mercerized mercerized yarn against a background of ordinary yarn against a cotton. background of ordinary cotton.



530 Word MERCERISED WOOL



MERCERIZATION



MERCHANDISE



MERINO



Category fabrics



Short description Description A wool treated with a A wool treated with a solution of caustic solution of caustic soda to soda to destroy the destroy the felting property. felting property. Because the wool scales are destroyed, the fibre sometimes is more lustrous. A treatment for irreversibly processes, A treatment for and remarkably altering the operations irreversibly and remarkably altering the physical characteristics and appearance of cellulosic physical textiles in yarn or fabric characteristics and form. The process involves appearance of both swelling in a cellulosic textiles in concentrated solution of yarn or fabric form. caustic alkalis, under conditions of concentration and temperature, and stretching to enhance lustre, to increase dye affinity, and to improve the strength of the cotton. Mercerised yarns are used for many cotton fabrics and sewing threads. In ‘chain mercerizing’, shrinkage in fabric width is allowed, followed by restretching and washing on a clipstenter. In ‘chainless mercerzing’, the fabric is effectively prevented from shrinking by transporting over rotating drums. See Hot mercerization, Slack mercerization, Post mercerization and Liquid ammonia treatment. general In textile, any finished In textile, any finished soft soft goods ready for goods ready for consumer consumer purchase. purchase. fibers, Wool from purebred Wool from purebred merino sheep; the most important filaments, merino sheep; the wool producing type of yarns most important wool sheep, mostly from producing type of sheep, mostly from Australia and South Africa. The finest grade, soft, Australia and South expensive wool fleece. Africa.



531 Word



Category



Short description



MERINO EXTRAFINE WOOL



fibers, filaments, yarns



A highly refined and superbly soft yarn.



MESH



fabrics, Netting fabrics, plain processes, and printed, with holes operations from 3 mm to 1 cm. Some are made from cotton, others from polyester. Used for tops and vests



MESSALINE



fabrics



Named after Empress Messalina, a connoisseur of this type silk. It is a lustrous, soft, silky fabric in a satin weave, usually in plain colours.



MESTA



fibers, filaments, yarns processes, operations



See Kenaf.



META-CHROME DYEING



Description Used in high quality cloth, blankets, etc., often in small quantities with other wool to reduce the price. The word Merino is now also used for a high quality woollen cloth. A highly refined and superbly soft yarn. Used alone or mixed with other luxurious yarns such as silk, alpaca, cashmere. 1. Netting fabrics, plain and printed, with holes from 3 mm to 1 cm. Some are made from cotton, others from polyester. Used for tops and vests 2. In coated glass yarn fabrics, the number (counted units) of warp yarns (ends) and weft yarns (picks) per linear inch (25.4 mm). 3. In knitting. See Knotted stitch and Spread loop. Named after Empress Messalina, a connoisseur of this type silk. It is a lustrous, soft, silky fabric in a satin weave, usually in plain colours. It may now be polyester, acetate, triacetate as well as silk fibre. This is an expensive silk, which drapes well, and is perfect in black for special occasion dresses See Kenaf.



A single-bath method of A single-bath method of dyeing in which the dyeing in which the fibre is treated in a dyebath fibre is treated in a containing a suitable dyebath containing a suitable chrome dye chrome dye together with a chromate, whereby a dyetogether with a chromium complex is chromate formed within the fibre.



532 Word METAL CLOTH



Category fabrics



METAL EMBROIDERED LACE



fabrics



METAL FIBRE



fibers, filaments, yarns METAL SENSITIVITY apparatus, equipage, tools



Short description A decorative fabric with a silk or cotton warp and gold, silver, aluminium or copper filing yarns. A lace fabric as base, usually of viscose, with embroidery worked in nylon and metal yarns. A manufactured fibre made from any metal.



Description A decorative fabric with a silk or cotton warp and gold, silver, aluminium or copper filing yarns. Used for trimmings and millinery A lace fabric as base, usually of viscose, with embroidery worked in nylon and metal yarns. A manufactured fibre made from any metal.



The propensity of a dye to produce an abnormal color on a textile material



The propensity of a dye to produce an abnormal color on a textile material when in the presence of certain metal ions. There are a few fabrics, for example silk from the East, which have real silver or gold threads woven into them. The problem with these is that the thread tarnishes, so the fabric or garment is usually kept in tissue paper to slow this process down. See also Lamè jersey. The method of laminating an aluminium foil or metallic film between two layers or plies of polyester film, acetate butyrate, acetate or cellophane, or applying a metal film on one surface of a fabric. Any fabric which contains metallic yarn. A manufactured fibre composed of metal, plasticcoated metal, metal-coated plastic or a core completely covered by metal. Continuous flat monofilament produced by a combination of plastic film and metallic component so



METAL THREAD FABRICS



fabrics



There are a few fabrics, for example silk from the East, which have real silver or gold threads woven into them.



METALIZING



processes, operations



The method of laminating an aluminium foil or metallic film



METALLIC FABRIC



fabrics



METALLIC FIBRE



fibers, filaments, yarns



Any fabric which contains metallic yarn. A manufactured fibre



METALLIC FILAMENTS



fibers, filaments, yarns



Continuous flat monofilament produced by a combination of plastic film and metallic



533 Word



Category



Short description Description component so that the that the metallic component metallic component is is protected. protected. Metallic filaments are available in a wide range of tarnish-free glittering colours. Aluminium foil is the metal used and the filaments are composed of a thin strip of foil coated each side with clear plastic film which protects the aluminium from tarnish. The laminated construction gives flexibil-ity. Special types of polyester film with reasonably high strength are produced, although the strength of normal type metallic filaments is fairly low. Used for their decorative effect in many types of clothing fabrics, woven, knitted and lace. They usually give a glitter effect but a more subtle effect can be obtained by use of opaque colours which reduce the brightness of the aluminium foil. Their hardness can cause some discomfort in wear unless lined, and care is taken in dry cleaning to prevent delamination by unsuitable sol-vents. Metallic yarns are designated by a group of three symbols, each separated by a hyphen, setting forth the two dimensions of width, and gauge or thickness, and generic type. Width: The width of the yarn is expressed as the fraction of an inch to which the yarn has been cut, viz., 1/32, 1/64, etc.



534 Word



Category



METALLIC PRINTING processes, operations



Short description



A method of printing which uses a finely ground bronze or aluminium powder.



METALLIC STAPLE



fibers, filaments, yarns



Materials similar to the various types of metallic yarn which has been cut to staple length for blending with other fibres in the manufacture of spun yarns.



METALLIC YARN



fibers, filaments, yarns fabrics



See Metallized yarn.



METALLINE



Description Gauge (or thickness): The thickness or gauge of the yarn is expressed as the sum of the thickness of the plastic film and metallic component in hundredthousands of an inch, as a whole number, viz., 35,50,150,200, etc. Generic type: The type of the yarn is expressed on the basis of two components of the laminate - the generic name of the plastic film and the metal. A method of printing which uses a finely ground bronze or aluminium powder. Method of production is similar to pigments using suitable binders. Materials similar to the various types of metallic yarn which has been cut to staple length for blending with other fibres in the manufacture of spun yarns. The use of metallic staple gives glittering highlights to the fabrics in which it is employed. See Metallized yarn.



A highly lustrous fabric A highly lustrous fabric in in metallic colours. metallic colours. Woven with silk or cotton warp with the brilliant metallic colour in the rayon filling. Made in imitation of metallic fabric. METALLIZABLE DYE apparatus, A dye capable of A dye capable of forming a equipage, forming a dye-metal dye-metal complex either in tools complex substance (See Metalcomplex dyes) or on substrate. METALLIZED FABRIC fibers, A textile fabric on A textile fabric on which filaments, which metal has been metal has been deposited, yarns deposited, e.g. chemically, or by



535 Word



Category



METALLIZED YARN



fibers, filaments, yarns



METAMERIC



general



METAMERIC MATCH



general



METAMERISM



general



Short description



Description electric arc or by lamination using adhesive A yarn, which has free A yarn, which has free metal as a component metal as a component. There are several types, the best known of which are: 1. Yarns in which separate metal fibres or filaments are included. 2. Metal of narrow strip section, usually lustrous See Flat metal yarn. 3. Metal of narrow strip section, coated or laminated with film such as viscose, cellulose acetate, butyrate, or polyester. The film may be coloured. 4. Yarns on which metal is attached to or deposited on the fibres, e.g. chemically, by electric arc, or by adhesive. See also Tinsel yarn. 5. Multi-end yarns in which at least one single yarn is metallic. See also Tinsel yarn. 6. A gimp in which the helical covering consists of a strip of (2) above. Descriptive of objects Descriptive of objects that that exhibit exhibit metamerism metamerism A match that is judged A match that is judged to be satisfactory under a to be satisfactory particular illuminant but not under a particular under illuminant of different illuminant but not spectral composition. under illuminant of different spectral composition. A phenomenon whereby A phenomenon the nature of the colour whereby the nature of difference between two the colour difference between two similarly similarly coloured objects changes with change in the coloured objects spectral distribution changes with change



536 Word



Category



METIER



apparatus, equipage, tools



METRIC COUNT



fibers, filaments, yarns fibers, filaments, yarns



MI-CUIT SILK



MICROFIBRE



MICROFIBRE BATTING



MICROGRAPH



MICRON



MICRONAIRE METHOD



fibers, filaments, yarns



Short description in the spectral distribution characteristics of the illuminant. A spinning device used in producing man-made fibres.



The number of metres of yarn per gram A silk which has been partially degummed to a degree about halfway between complete, ‘bright’, and souple, or part, boilingoff.



Description characteristics of the illuminant.



A spinning device used in producing man-made fibres. The bank of cells or compartments and associated equipment used in the dry spinning of fibres, i.e. cellulose acetate and cellulose triacetate. The number of metres of yarn per gram; an indirect yarn numbering system. A silk which has been partially degummed to a degree about halfway between complete, ‘bright’, and souple, or part, boilingoff. It is not a fixed degree, and varies in proportion to the lustre de-sired. Derived from the French means ‘half baked’. A fibre or filament of linear density approximately 1.0 dtex or less.



A fibre or filament of linear density approximately 1.0 dtex or less. accessories A textile filling material A textile filling material containing fibres, such containing fibres, such as as polyester or olefin polyester or olefin, which have a diameter of less than 10 µm. apparatus, A photograph of an A photograph of an equipage, enlarged microscopic enlarged microscopic tools image. image. Also called ‘photomicrograph’. general A unit of measurement A unit of measurement equal to 1000th part of equal to 1000th part of a a millimetre millimetre; it is abbreviation for mocrometre. processes, A means of measuring A means of measuring the operations the fineness of a fibre. fineness of a fibre. This is done by finding the resistance of a staple to a flow of air forced through it.



537 Word MICRONAIRE READING



Short description A relative measurement of fibre fineness derived from the porous plug airflow method. MICROSTRETCHING processes, The use of interoperations meshing, driven, corrugated rollers for the incremental extension of the weft yarns of woven fabrics.



MICROWAVE HEATING



MID-NECK GIRTH



MID-THIGH GIRTH



MIDDY TWILL



MIGNONETTE



MIGRATION



Category fibers, filaments, yarns



processes, operations



The use of high frequency dielectric energy, of 300 Mhz350 Mhz to raise the temperature of polar materials, e.g. water.



garments, Garment-related term. made-ups, assemblies garments, Garment-related term. made-ups, assemblies fabrics A durable right-hand or left-hand twill cotton fabric, either mercerized or plain.



fabrics



A knitted silk or viscose fabric used for underwear. apparatus, The nonuniform equipage, movement and tools distribution of dyes, pigments, finishes or



Description A relative measurement of fibre fineness derived from the porous plug airflow method. The use of inter-meshing, driven, corrugated rollers for the incremental extension of the weft yarns of woven fabrics. When applied immediately before the cross-linking of lightweight cotton fabrics, weft tensile strength loss is minimized. The use of high frequency dielectric energy, of 300 Mhz-350 Mhz to raise the temperature of polar materials, e.g. water. A microwave oven provides a method of heating textiles rapidly and uniformly without overheating surface fibres. On the industrial scale RF heating is used more widely. Garment-related term. See under Garment sizing system. Garment-related term. See under Garment sizing system A durable right-hand or lefthand twill cotton fabric, either mercerized or plain. Used for middy blouses, uniforms, children’s wear. Sometimes applied to lightweight drill or jean. A knitted silk or viscose fabric used for underwear. Finer than Tricot. The nonuniform movement and distribution of dyes, pigments, finishes or other materials from one part of a



538 Word



Category



Short description other materials from one part of a material to another



MILAN



fabrics



MILAN POINT



fabrics



A fine, closely woven straw used for fine qualities of millinery made in Milan, Italy. A needle-point tape lace with a picot edge.



MILANAISE



fabrics



Narrow braid or corded fabric in which the cord effect is produced by leno weaving.



MILANESE



fabrics



KNITTED. A warp knitted fabric usually made with a full set of warp threads (i.e. containing twice as many threads as there are wales in the fabric.



MILANESE WARP-



apparatus,



A warp-knitting



Description material to another; movement between fibres within a substrate or between substrates due to capillary forces. See also Transfer. A fine, closely woven straw used for fine qualities of millinery made in Milan, Italy. A needle-point tape lace with a picot edge. Once hand-made, but the simplicity of the design is easy to imitate by machine. Narrow braid or corded fabric in which the cord effect is produced by leno weaving. One end is made to cross another coarse end in an alternate crossed and open shed sequence. 1. KNITTED. A warp knitted fabric usually made with a full set of warp threads (i.e. containing twice as many threads as there are wales in the fabric. It is a highly run-resistant fabric. The threads are continuously divided into two equal warp sheets, one set of which traverses to the right continuously and the other set to the left, so that any particular thread traverses the full width of the fabric and, on reaching the selvedge, is transferred to the other set. The manner of traversing the threads may be either silk lap or cotton lap. 2. WOVEN. A low quality cotton fabric of about 17x14 tex with approximately 30 ends x 38 picks per cm. A warp-knitting machine



539 Word KNITTING MACHINE



Category equipage, tools



Short description machine using either bearded or latch needles arranged in either a straight-bar or circular formation.



Description using either bearded or latch needles arranged in either a straight-bar or circular formation. The special loop-forming process results in a two-bar fabric constructed from two non-returning atlas lapping motions working in opposition. MILANO RIB fabrics A weft-knitted ribA weft-knitted rib-based based fabric. fabric. Each complete repeat of the structure consist of three components knitted in sequence to give one row of 1x1 rib (i) and one row of plain tubular knitting (ii) in which, the two component parts usually being similar. The appearance and characteristics of the fabrics are related to the ratio the course lengths of (i) and (ii). See also Halfmilano rib. In textile materials the MILDEW general In textile materials the development of unsightly development of unsightly growths of growths of certain species of fungi and accompanying certain species of unpleasant, musty odors on fungi it when it is exposed to conditions favoring such growths. This may lead to discoloration, tendering, and variations in dyeing properties MILDEW-RESISTANT fabrics A fabric treated with A fabric treated with chemicals chemicals, to impart resistance to the development mildew in it. See Mildew. A plain, flat braid usually MILITARY BRAID garments, A plain, flat braid made from continuous made-ups, usually made from filament yarn. assemblies continuous filament yarn. MILIUM fabrics Trade name for a Trade name for a fabric fabric which is which is insulated by



540 Word



Category



MILL



fabrics, apparatus, equipage, tools, general



MILL ENDS



fabrics



MILL ENGRAVING



processes, operations



MILL RUN



general



MILL WASTE



general



Short description Description insulated by applying applying aluminum flakes to aluminum flakes to its its back. The fibre of the back. fabric may be cotton, acetate, viscose, nylon, polyester. The insulation keeps out cold in winter and heat in summer. It was once a common coat lining, but, possibly because the seams pull and split easily under pressure, it is now mainly confined to curtain lining. Fabric whose surface 1. Fabric whose surface has been abraded to has been abraded to give it give it a special a special appearance and appearance and hand. hand. 3. In printing, a small cylinder of softened steel on which the pattern is raised in relief (by pressure and acid) from contact with a previously engraved die. 3. A factory unit in which textile yarns are spun, woven or knit. 4. A business concern engaged in the manufacture of textiles. Short lengths of fabric Short lengths of fabric or or mill remnants. mill remnants. The mechanical The mechanical method of method of ‘engraving’ ‘engraving’ a print cylinder; a print cylinder; the design is pressed out by means of a mill. Also called Machine engraving. A yarn or fabric that 1. A yarn or fabric that has has not been graded. not been graded. 2. A yarn or fabric from which inferior product bas not been removed, consequently, goods are not up to a standard quality. They are generally seconds Waste from various Waste from various machines that card, machines that card, spin, spin, and weave textile and weave textile fabrics fabrics



541 Word MILL WRINKLE MILL-FINISHED FABRICS



MILLBOARD



MILLED



MILLINERY FELT



MILLINERY HAIR



MILLING



MILLING ACID DYE



MINERAL DYES



MINERAL FIBRE



Category defects fabrics



Short description Description See Crease. See Crease. Yarn dyed, cotton Yarn dyed, cotton fabrics fabrics requiring no requiring no wet finishing wet finishing after after weaving. weaving. accessories A thick piece of A thick piece of cardboard cardboard placed placed between the folds of between the folds of fabric during pressing. fabric during pressing. fabrics A woven fabric that A woven fabric that has has been fulled or been fulled or felted. felted. fabrics A cloth made by A cloth made by interlocking of fibres interlocking of fibres. The fibre stock is submitted to heat, moisture, water and pressure. Fibres used are fur, wool and cotton blends. accessories A very sheer braid A very sheer braid used for used for transparent transparent hats. Best hats. grades are lustrous and have good body. processes, Consolidation or Consolidation or operations compacting fabrics, compacting fabrics, that that usually contain usually contain wool or wool or other animal other animal fibres. fibres. Depending on the type of fibre, the structure of the fabric and on variations in the conditions of milling, a wide range of effects can be obtained varying from a slight alteration in handle to a dense matting with considerable reduction in area. apparatus, An acid dye of good An acid dye of good equipage, fastness to acid or fastness to acid or alkaline tools alkaline milling. milling. apparatus, Colours produced on Colours produced on cotton by the precipitation of equipage, cotton by the coloured mineral tools precipitation of compounds on the fibre. coloured mineral Most have excellent compounds on the fastness properties but with fibre. very limited shade range. fibers, A group of fibres A group of fibres obtained



542 Word



Category filaments, yarns



MINERAL SILICATE FIBRES



fibers, filaments, yarns



MINERAL WOOL



fibers, filaments, yarns



MINI-GRAIN



fibers, filaments, yarns



MINIMUM-CARE



MINK



MINOR DEFECT



Short description obtained from minerals, e.g. asbestos, glass, metals These are included in various commonly used fibre groupings.



Description from minerals, e.g. asbestos, glass, metals



These are included in various commonly used fibre groupings. They are ‘inorganic fibres’ and ‘mineral fibres’. Their resistance to high temperature puts put them into ‘high-temperature fibre’ classification. A term which indicates that they are silicates of natural origin, as distinct from silicates which are made synthetically, e.g. Glass. A web or batt of A web or batt of manufactured, inorganic manufactured, inorganic fibres used fibres used for thermal or acoustic insulation. for thermal or acoustic insulation. A two coloured ingrain A two coloured ingrain filament yarn in which filament yarn in which one one colour colour predominates predominates See Easy-care. See Easy-care.



garments, made-ups, assemblies fibers, A very distinctive long A very distinctive long pale filaments, pale brown fur from an brown fur from an animal yarns animal which can be which can be ranch bred or wild. There are also ranch bred or wild. Chinese mink or Kolinsky mink, a creamy beige fur which is often dyed; Jap mink, which is yellow; and Mutation mink, which is of unusual colorings, e.g. silvery blue and black. Mink is luxurious and hardwearing. It is often used for hats and to a lesser extent for coats. Prohibitively expensive. defects See under Defect See under Defect



543 Word MINOR DEFECTS IN GARMENT MIRALENE



MIRALON



MIRROR VELVET



MIRROR-EFFECT YARNS



MIS-STITCH



MISCLIP MISDRAW MISPICK



Category defects



Short description Description See under Garment See under Garment defects. defects. fibers, Polyester fibre, crinkle Polyester fibre, crinkle or filaments, or bouclé type yarn bouclé type yarn based on yarns based on ‘terylene’. ‘terylene’. processes, A bulking process A bulking process which operations, which can be applied can be applied to nylon fibers, to nylon yarn. yarn. The bulking makes filaments, the fibre warmer, as air is yarns introduced, and also softer to the feel. fabrics Velvet produced in the Velvet produced in the normal way, but with a normal way, but with a pattern pattern made by pressing the pile flat in different directions and giving a shimmery or mirror effect. fibers, A type of filament yarn A type of filament yarn in filaments, in which a heavy white which a heavy white yarn yarns yarn serves as a core serves as a core, wrapped with fine dyed sin-gles. Colour is diffused through the yarn. general A knitted stitch done A knitted stitch done purposely for a desired purposely for a desired effect. effect. Formed when the needle holds the old loop and does not receive new yarn. It connects two loops of the same course that are not in adjacent wales. Also called ‘float stitch’, welt stitch’. defects See Scalloped See Scalloped selvedge. selvedge. defects See Wrong draw. See Wrong draw. defects Also called Wrong Also called Wrong pick. pick. Fabric defect in Fabric defect in woven woven fabrics fabrics. A pick not properly interlaced, which causes a break in the weave pattern. Weft yarn picks which have not gone all the way through the shed of the loom when weaving. The pick may have been left out altogether, or a short or



544 Word



MISPRINT



MISREGISTER



MISS-KNIT



MISSILE LOOM



MISSING END MISSING PICK MISSING YARN



MISTRAL



MIXED END



Category



Short description



Description long portion of the pick may have been deposited in the shed. Caused chiefly by mechanical defects such as weft yarn running out of the bobbin, breakage of the yarn, not interlacing with the warp yarn, poor action by the picker stick, etc. See also Double pick. defects Fabric defect, in Fabric defect, in printed printed fabric. fabric. Colors or patterns, or both, either missed, or partially missed, or incorrectly positioned relative to each other. defects Fabric defect, in Fabric defect, in printing. printing Colors or patterns not correctly positioned. (Compare Misprint.) defects Fabric defect, in Fabric defect, in knitted knitted fabrics. fabrics. A deviation from the designated knitting pattern. apparatus, See under Shuttleless See under Shuttleless equipage, looms looms tools defects See End out. See End out. defects See Broken pick See Broken pick defects Fabric defect, in Fabric defect, in circular circular knit fabric knit fabric, caused by one end of yarn missing from feed and the machine continues to run. fabrics The name given to a The name given to a crêpecrêpe-effect worsted effect worsted cloth. cloth. Twisted warp and weft yarns are used. defects Also called Wrong Also called Wrong end. end. Fabric defect. Fabric defect. A yarn differing from that normally being used in the fabric, such as incorrect twist, number of plies, wrong color, or from wrong yarn lot. In woven and warp-knitted



545 Word



Category



Short description



MIXED FABRIC MIXED FILLING



fabrics defects



See Mixture fabric. Fabric defect, major, in woven fabrics.



MIXED WARP ENDS



defects



Fabric defect.



MIXED WEFT



defects



Fabric defect.



MIXED YARN



defects



Fabric defect, major, in warp knit fabric.



MIXING



general



Blending of quantities of fibres from several lots to produce a uniform result.



Description fabrics the defect appears as a vertical line running warpway; in weft-knitted fabrics, as a horizontal stripe running across the fabric and repeated at regular intervals See Mixture fabric. Fabric defect, major, in woven fabrics. Also called Change-in filling, Discolored pick, Filling band, Shade bar, Wrong color pick. A weft yarn differing from that normally being used in the fabric or caused by a bobbin of lightweight yarn used in weft. Will appear as a distinct shade change. See also Filling band. (Compare Barré.) Fabric defect. These come from ends of varying thickness or plies. Attributed to mixed yarn spools during the warp dressing operation. Fabric defect. An unintentional mixing or two or more lots of yarns. This may lead to the formation of weft bars Fabric defect, major, in warp knit fabric. Resulting from wrong fibre yarn (or wrong size yarn) placed on the warp. Fabric could appear as thick end or different color, if fibres have different affinity for dye. Blending of quantities of fibres from several lots to produce a uniform result. In textile operations this term means the use of one kind of fibre, while the term blending is generally used



546 Word



Category



Short description



MIXTURE



fibers, filaments, yarns



YARN. A yarn spun from blends of different materials, colour, lustre, which are mixed prior to the first spinning process.



MIXTURE CRÊPE



fabrics



MIXTURE FABRIC



fabrics



A crêpe fabric made with different fibre in warp and weft The fabric composed of a mixture of yarns made from different types of fibres



Description for dissimilar fibres, colours, etc. This distinction does not follow in the words mixture and blends. 1. YARN. A yarn spun from blends of different materials, colour, lustre, which are mixed prior to the first spinning process. Each fibre is one colour only, as distinguished from melange yarn, which has more than one colour printed on it during the top or sliver stage. 2. FABRIC. A fabric made of mixture yarn, in warp/or weft, and fabric with two or more different types of fibre. A crêpe fabric made with different fibre in warp and weft The fabric composed of a mixture of yarns made from different types of fibres, i.e. use of two or more different types of fibres in a fabric, each fibre being spun into a separate yarn, e.g. a cheap blazer cloth could be made having a cotton warp and a wool weft; it is therefore a mixture of wool and cotton. There are basic reasons why mixtures of yarns of different type are used, and the reasons can apply in combination as well as separately; for economy (to reduce the cost of a fabric by the use of a cheap yarn type mixed with a more expensive yarn type), for combination properties (to effect a compromise where no one yarn type is ideal by combining two or more yarn



547 Word



Category



MIXTURE INGRAIN



MOCCA



fibers, filaments, yarns fibers, filaments, yarns general



MOCHA LEATHER



fabrics



MOCK



general, fabrics



MOCK CAKE



fibers, filaments, yarns



A package of yarn



MOCK CRÊPES



fabrics



A group of fabrics in which the crêpe effect has been obtained through other methods than the use of crêpe twist yarns



MIXTURE YARN



Short description



Description types each contribut-ing something to the whole) and for decorative or color effect (some yarn types have a distinctive appearance, lustre or texture, and yarn types vary in their affinity for dye. Yarn types can be com-bined to give certain decorative textural or color effects arising from the differences referred to. Also called Mixed fabric. See also Blend fabrics. See under Worsted. See under Worsted.



See under Colour terms, Worsted.



See under Colour terms, Worsted.



An embroidery term to designate the entire open eyelet covered with spider-like stitches. Fine, soft sheepskin leather from Africa and the Middle East. Imitation.



An embroidery term to designate the entire open eyelet covered with spiderlike stitches. Fine, soft sheepskin leather from Africa and the Middle East. 1. Imitation. 2. To be opposed. Two ends that lift opposite to each other are described as mocking, e. g. in plain weave, adjacent ends mock in plain order. A package of yarn produced by winding onto a collapsible mandrel or former, which is subsequently removed. A group of fabrics in which the crêpe effect has been obtained through other methods than the use of crêpe twist yarns; these include design, weave or



548 Word



Category



MOCK DYEING



processes, operations



MOCK FASHIONING



processes, operations



MOCK FLAT-FELLED SEAM MOCK FRENCH SEAM



general



MOCK GAUZE



fabrics



general



Short description



Description finish. Alternate warp ends of different twists will also produce a crêpe effect and are used sometimes in cotton and rayon fabrics. Process of heat Process of heat stabilization of yarns stabilization of yarns. Yarns are package dyed (water, pressure, temperature) but without any dyes or chemicals in the bath. An imitation of the An imitation of the fashion fashion marks of fully- marks of fully-fashioned fashioned hosiery hosiery made on circular made on circular knitted hose; consists of knitted hose tuck-like stitches made in the calf of the stockings. See Double welt See Double welt seam. seam. A complex seam A complex seam formed on formed on the inside of the inside of the object with the object with raw raw edges enclosed and no edges enclosed and stitching rows visible on the no stitching rows face side; similar in visible on the face side appearance to the French seam but constructed differently. A mock French seam is made by (1) placing two pieces of fabric with face sides together, (2) stitching on the 15 mm seamline, (3) trimming both seam allowances to 12 mm, (4) clipping or notching as appropriate, 3 mm on any curved edges in order to lie flat upon completion, (5) pressing open the seam, (6) then pressing under 6 mm of each of the seam allowances toward each other, matching, the folded edges, and (7) stitching together the two seam allowances 15 mm from the folded edges. (Compare French seam.) See Perforated weave. See Perforated weave.



549 Word MOCK GRANDRELLE



Category fabrics



MOCK LENO



fabrics



MOCK LINKING



MOCK ROMAINE



MOCK SEAM



Short description A single yarn with a grandrelle effect, spun from rovings of different colours. A weave in which the warp yarns remain parallel



processes, A use of random operations linking where linking is normally used



fabrics



Similar to ‘romaine’



garments, Hose, knitted in made-ups, tubular form, but assemblies seamed up the back to imitate seam in fullyfashioned stocking.



MOCK SPACE WEAVING MACHINE



apparatus, equipage, tools



A multi-tier weaving machine for narrow fabrics.



MOCK VOILE



fabrics



A plain weave cotton fabric, woven from hard-twisted single yarns



Description A single yarn with a grandrelle effect, spun from rovings of different colours. A weave in which the warp yarns remain parallel but form open warp stripes by programmed interlacing of warp and weft yarns simulating a leno appearance. A use of random linking where linking is normally used, such as collar attachment, the intention being to make the seam appear to have been linked while gaining a faster speed along with a cer-tain amount of de-skilling. Similar to ‘romaine’, except that the combination twist yarns occur only in the warp, with the weft consisting of a single ply viscose twist yarn. Hose, knitted in tubular form, but seamed up the back to imitate seam in fully-fashioned stocking. Mock fashion marks are often put on the back to make the imitation look better. A multi-tier weaving machine for narrow fabrics. In this, all pieces being woven in any one row are so spaced as to lie immediately above or below the landings of those in a vertically adjacent row. A plain weave cotton fabric, woven from hard-twisted single yarns (instead of two-fold), and woven with one thread per dent.



550 Word MOCK-CHENILLE YARN



Category fibers, filaments, yarns



Short description A type of fancy yarn.



MOCK-SAFETY STITCH



general



A type of overedge stitch



MOCK-TWIST YARN



fibers, filaments, yarns



An imitation ply spiral yarn, it is a fancy single yarn produced by feeding two different coloured rovings into the spinning frame.



MODACRYLIC FIBRE



fibers, filaments, yarns



A manufactured fibre in which the fibreforming substance is any long chain synthetic polymer composed of less than 85 % but at least 35 % by weight of acrylonitrile units



Description A type of fancy yarn. A doubled corkscrew yarn. It is made by doubling together two or more unbalanced corkscrew yarns in the reverse direction with sufficient twist to form a balanced structure. A type of overedge stitch, which has an appearance similar to that of a safety stitch on the top surface of the material but has a common looper thread joining the two rows of stitching, which can be seen underneath the fabric. An imitation ply spiral yarn, it is a fancy single yarn produced by feeding two different coloured rovings into the spinning frame. The resultant single yarn resembles a two-ply yarn made of two different coloured single yarns and gives a mottled effect. Similar to double-and-twist yarn, but the colours are not as sharply or regularly outlined. A manufactured fibre in which the fibre-forming substance is any long chain synthetic polymer composed of less than 85 % but at least 35 % by weight of acrylonitrile units, except fibres qualifying under Rubber, 2, and Anidex. These are ‘modified’ acrylic fibres. Fibres are very similar, in general characteristics, to acrylic fibres, in that they have a warm handle and bulk well.



551 Word



Category



Short description



Description Its outstanding property is flame resistance and in this respect it is superior to ordinary acrylic fibres. Used for fur fabrics, warm textured nightwear fabrics, particularly for children where safety from fire risk is absolutely essential. Washing properties are similar to those for acrylic fibres, but with particular attention to heat as this is even more sensitive than acrylic fibres Generic name for MODAL FIBRE fibers, Generic name for filaments, regenerated cellulose regenerated cellulose fibres obtained by processes yarns fibres obtained by processes giving a giving a high tenacity and a high tenacity and a high wet modulus; the term ‘polynosic’ being used for high wet modulus; those with the highest wet modulus. In han-dle and appearance the fibre is somewhat similar to a good quality mercerised cotton. See Polynosic fibre MODEL garments, The original garment The original garment made made-ups, made up from a up from a design. The assemblies design original sample. Stretching the fibres MODIFIED ACETATE fibers, Stretching the fibres followed by a treatment FIBRES filaments, followed by a with an alkali. yarns treatment with an alkali. MODIFIED fibers, Cotton fibres that have Cotton fibres that have not CELLULOSE FIBRE filaments, not been treated with been treated with caustic soda to change their yarns caustic soda to chemical and physical change their chemical properties so that the fibres and physical which have been modified properties in this way will have increased strength, better affinity for dye, and increased lustre. MODIFIED fibers, This broad general This broad general CONTINUOUS filaments, classification refers classification refers FILAMENT YARN yarns principally to manprincipally to man-made made fibre yarns fibre yarns, such as stretch



552 Word



Category



Short description



MODIFIED RAYON



fibers, filaments, yarns



Rayon filaments or fibres, composed of principally of regenerated cellulose



MODIFIED STAPLE FIBRE



fibers, filaments, yarns



Rayon staple that has been treated to give it wool-like characteristics.



MODIFIED WORSTED SYSTEM



processes, operations



A worsted system for spinning man-made fibres



MODIFIED YARNS



See Textured, lofted or modified yarns.



MODULUS



fibers, filaments, yarns fibers, filaments, yarns, fabrics



MOGADOR



fabrics



Description yarns, textured yarns, bulk yarns. Rayon filaments or fibres, composed of principally of regenerated cellulose, into which are incorporated other non-regenerated cellulose fibre-forming materials such as casein or other proteins. This effect changes in the dyeing qualities of the rayon filaments or fibres. Rayon staple that has been treated to give it wool-like characteristics. A more desirable term is Animalized viscose rayon fibres A worsted system for spinning man-made fibres which relies on pin control of fibres during sliver weight reduction, but which bypasses the system of combing required with wool to remove noil. Same as Parallel worsted system. See Textured, lofted or modified yarns.



1. Initial linear relationships Initial linear relationships between between stress and strain as observed from the stress and strain as stress-strain curve of a observed from the fibre. Relates to fibre stress-strain curve of a stiffness, hence drapability fibre and hand of fabrics. 2. Measure of elasticity or stretch in textile fabrics. In swimwear and foundation garments, stretch and recovery are very important properties. The name was of the The name was of the silk silk fabric used for fabric used for men’s men’s cravats cravats, but it is now used for an acetate fabric



553 Word



MOHAIR



MOHAIR BRAID



MOHAIR SUITING



MOHAIR WOOL



MOIRÉ FABRIC



Category



Short description



Description resembling faille. It is still mainly used for men’s ties fibers, The hair of the angora The hair of the angora goat. filaments, goat. A white hair up to 10 in. yarns long, from the Angora goat (found in Turkey, South Africa and USA). Unlike sheep’s wool, it is not curly. It is stronger than wool and produces hardwearing fabrics; it dyes well and has an attractive luster; but it is very expensive and is difficult to spin. The hair can be used for knitting yarn, and can be mixed with other fibres to make warm, lightweight fabrics. Any type of braid made accessories Any type of braid from, usually, genapped made from, usually, mohair yarns. Typically genapped mohair dyed black and used on yarns. uniform caps. Mohair can be combined fabrics Mohair can be with worsted yarn, or combined with worsted yarn, or woven alone, woven alone, to produce a very lightweight, shiny, to produce a very attractive suiting fabric. lightweight, shiny, attractive suiting fabric Used for men’s lightweight suits, dinner jackets, etc. fabrics Thick, spongy, open Thick, spongy, open fabric, fabric, in plain weave, in plain weave, with a very hairy texture. Its with a very hairy composition is usually 70 % texture. mohair and 30 % wool. It is very bulky and can be used for warm, lightweight lined coats, but is best for simple wrap-over jackets, sleeveless waistcoats, etc., which are unlined, and is excellent for shawls and stoles. It is soft and may ‘seat’. fabrics A ribbed or corded A ribbed or corded fabric fabric that has been that has been subjected to subjected to heat and heat and heavy pressure by heavy pressure by rollers after weaving so as



554 Word



Category



Short description rollers after weaving so as to present a rippled appearance.



MOIRÉ FAULT



defects



An undesirable shaded effect produced when the weave pattern of one fabric is accidentally impressed on to the face of another fabric



MOIRÉ FINISH



fabrics



A watered or rippled appearance on the surface of a fabric.



MOIRÉ TAFFETA



fabrics



Taffeta weave fabric made from silk or synthetic fibres and then embossed with a moirè pattern.



MOIRETTE



fabrics



A plain woven cotton fabric, with a predominance of warp or weft



Description to present a rippled appearance. The effect arises from differences in reflection of the flattened and the unaffected parts. The finish is not necessarily permanent. Also called ‘watered’, ‘watermark’. An undesirable shaded effect produced when the weave pattern of one fabric is accidentally impressed on to the face of another fabric, usually under heat and pressure during processing, e.g. beam dyeing, etc A watered or rippled appearance on the surface of a fabric. The effect is obtained by passing two layers of a rib or cord fabric between heavy heated rollers or by passing the fabric between suitably engraved calender rollers. Originally developed for silk fabrics, good results can be obtained on cotton and man-made fibre fabrics. There are many styles of moiré finish. Taffeta weave fabric made from silk or synthetic fibres and then embossed with a moirè pattern. The embossing may or may not be permanent depending on the fibre and the processing. See Taf-feta and Moiré. A plain woven cotton fabric, with a predominance of warp or weft, creating lines across or down the fabric respectively with a moiré finish. Polished cotton is used.



555 Word MOIST CURING MOISTURE



Category processes, operations general



MOISTURE AS RECEIVED MOISTURE AS-IS



general



MOISTURE CONTENT



general



general



MOISTURE EQUILIBRIUM



general



MOISTURE PICK-UP



general



MOISTURE REGAIN



fibers, filaments, yarns



MOISTURE, WETBASIS MOISTURE-FREE



general general



Short description See under Curing.



Description See under Curing.



Water absorbed, Water absorbed, adsorbed adsorbed or resorbed or resorbed by a material. by a material. See also Water See Moisture content Deprecated term.See Moisture content A deprecated term. A deprecated term. See Moisture content. The ratio of the moisture in The ratio of the moisture in a material a material to the total moist mass. The ratio is usually to the total moist expressed as a percentage mass. and is calculated as follows: See Table: ‘Physical characteristics of manmade and natural fibres’. The condition reached The condition reached by a by a material when it material when it no longer takes up moisture from, or no longer takes up moisture from, or gives gives up moisture to, the surrounding atmosphere. up moisture to, the (Compare Moisture-free.) surrounding atmosphere. The mass of absorbed The mass of absorbed and and adsorbed water adsorbed water that is held by material, compared to that is held by the mass of the dried material, compared to material. (Compare the mass of the dried Moisture content, and material. Moisture regain.) Also called Regain. Also called Regain. The ratio of the mass of moisture in a material to the oven-dry mass. The ratio is usually expressed as a percentage and is calculated as follows: Deprecated term. Deprecated term. See Moisture content. A descriptive term for: a material that has 1. a material that has been been treated by a exposed to a flow of distillation process desiccated air at a specified using a suitable temperature until there is solvent.



556 Word



MOITY WOOL



MOLDED FABRIC



MOLECULAR ORIENTATION



Category



Short description



Description no further significant change in mass, or 2. a material that has been treated by a distillation process using a suitable solvent. Also called Zero moisture. (Compare Moisture equilibrium.) Wool containing vegetable fibers, Wool containing matters like straw, hay, filaments, vegetable matters like yarns straw, hay, twigs, etc., twigs, etc., picked up by sheep while grazing. picked up by sheep while grazing. A fabric made of fabrics A fabric made of thermoplastic fibres that thermoplastic fibres has heat and pressure that has heat and pressure applied to it applied to it to change the molecular structure of the to change the molecular structure of fibres and to stabilize the shape. This process of the fibres and to molding may be used on stabilize the shape. flat fabrics as well as on pile surfaces. Molded fabrics retain their shape permanently; heat, washing, wear and moisture have no effect. Used for slip covers, upholstery, transportation cloth, swimwear, brassières, shoes and gloves processes, The preferred direction The preferred direction of linear molecules in the operations, of linear molecules in the structure of fibres. structure of fibres. In manfibers, made fibres the orientation filaments, is usually parallel to the yarns fibre axis as a result of extrusion, stretching, or drawing. In natural fibres the predominant direction is determined during growth, e.g. a helix around the fibre axis in cotton. Unoriented structures are those in which orientation is absent. Disoriented



557 Word



Category



MOLESKIN



fabrics



MOLLETON



fabrics



MOLTEN-METAL DYEING



processes, operations



MOMIE CLOTH MOMME



fabrics general



MONK’S CLOTH MONKEY FUR



fabrics fibers, filaments, yarns



MONO-CHROME DYEING MONOFILAMENT



processes, operations fibers,



Short description



Description structures are those in which orientation has been reduced or eliminated as a result of a disrupting treatment. Strong, fine cotton Strong, fine cotton fabric fabric lightly napped lightly napped and sheared and sheared on the on the wrong side. Once wrong side. only a cloth for protective clothing, particularly dungarees and trousers, because of its durability and additional warmth on the inside, but other fibres such as worsted may be used to produce good quality cloth for men’s suits, and it is also made as a lining fabric. The term now refers to any cloth with a short mole-like nap. A heavy reversible A heavy reversible cloth cloth with a nap on with a nap on both sides; both sides; originally originally made in wool. made in wool. A method of continuous A method of continuous dyeing in dyeing in which material is impregnated with an which material is impregnated with an aqueous liquid containing dye and chemicals and aqueous liquid containing dye and then passed through a bath of liquid low-melting alloy chemicals usually below 100° C. See Mummy cloth. See Mummy cloth. A Japanese measurement A Japanese measurement of mass of mass equivalent to 3.75 g (approximately). The equivalent to 3.75 g higher the momme, the (approximately). heavier the fabric. See Abbot cloth See Abbot cloth A long-haired fur used A long-haired fur used in in small amounts small amounts mainly as mainly as trimming. trimming. It can be cut and made into fur fringe. See Meta-chrome See Meta-chrome dyeing. dyeing. A single filament which A single filament which can



558 Word YARN



Category filaments, yarns



Short description Description function as a yarn in can function as a yarn commercial textile in commercial textile operations, i.e. it must operations, i.e. it must be be strong and flexible strong and flexible enough to be knitted, woven, or enough to be knitted, woven, or braided, etc braided, etc. Instead of a group of filaments being extruded through a spinneret to form a yarn, monofilaments generally are spun individually. They may be of various crosssections, such as to suggest horsehair, straw, hair, etc. See Yarn. A small, simple, chemical MONOMER apparatus, A small, simple, compound from which a equipage, chemical compound tools from which a polymer polymer may be formed. In most cases a given may be formed. polymer is produced from a variety of alternative monomers. In some cases two or more different monomers are involved in the production of a polymer. A mixture-effect tweed MONOTONE TWEED fabrics A mixture-effect tweed made of yarns in different made of yarns in different shades of the shades of the same colour. same colour. Silk produced by MONOVOLTINE SILK fibers, Silk produced by filaments, monovoltine silk worm, monovoltine silk worm, which produces one yarns which produces one generation per year generation per year MONTAGNAC fabrics A curly woollen fabric A curly woollen fabric with an astrakhan-like pile, FABRIC with an astrakhan-like produced by cutting some pile, produced by of the weft floats and cutting some of the weft floats and leaving leaving others uncut. It is subsequently brushed to others uncut form a very warm and durable fabric. MOQUTTE fabrics One of the best known One of the best known and and hardest wearing hardest wearing furnishing fabrics, used for covering furnishing fabrics, chairs, upholstery, curtains used for covering and drapes, table cloths, chairs, upholstery, curtains and drapes, etc., and probably the most



559 Word



MORDANT



MORDANT DYES



Category



Short description Description table cloths, etc., and popular until the advent of the more luxurious Dralon probably the most velvet. Moquette can be popular until the made in three types, one advent of the more with cut pile, another uncut, luxurious Dralon and one combining both cut velvet. and uncut. The pile is worsted, mohair or nylon, the backing wool or cotton. Its great advantage is that, although a pile cloth, it does not become flattened by pressure, e.g. sitting on it. Very tough and heavy; pile will shed from cut edges while sewing on it. apparatus, Sometimes also called Sometimes also called equipage, Drug. Drug. An agent, often in the tools form of a metallic oxide, which has an affinity for the cloth and an attraction for the colouring matter and so in combining with them it forms an insoluble colour lake complex on the cloth which is retained by the substrate more firmly than the dye itself. apparatus, These are dyes that These are dyes that are equipage, are applied to the fibre applied to the fibre in tools in conjunction with a conjunction with a metal metal salt; a mordant. salt; a mordant. The dyemetal complex possesses greater fastness than the dye alone. But, basic dyes which are applied by means of mordant and some direct dyes, requiring a metallic salt treatment to obtain full fastness, are conventionally excluded from the mordant group. Mordant dyes are: suitable for cellulose acetate, celulose triacetate, and polyester fibres, but the usage is now de-clining. suitable for cotton, linen, viscose rayon, and



560 Word



Category



MORDANT PRINTING processes, operations MORDANTING processes, operations



Short description



See Mordanting. A process of impregnating textiles with a mordant, usually salt or acid, to fasten the dyestuff, which is applied before or after mordanting



MOREEN



fabrics



Also called Morine.



MORINE MOROCCO LEATHER



fabrics fabrics



See Moreen. Term now refers to leather that has been tanned chemically



MOSAIC CANVAS



fabrics



MOSCOW



fabrics



A fine silk or cotton canvas used as a base for embroidery. Heavy weight, overcoating of the shaggy, napped type, used as winterwear.



MOSQUITO NET MOSS CORD MOSS CRÊPE



fabrics accessories fabrics



See Bobbin net. See Crêpe cord. A fabric made with a moss crêpe weave and S- and Z-twist moss crêpe yarns in warp and weft, made in acetate, cotton, wool, polyester or viscose.



Description cuprammonium rayon fibres, but now obsolete. See Mordanting. A process of impregnating textiles with a mordant, usually salt or acid, to fasten the dyestuff, which is applied before or after mordanting. The mordant is sometimes also applied at the same time as the dyestuff. Also called Morine. A repp cloth, woven with a coarse cotton weft and a fine cotton warp, the cloth having a moiré finish See Moreen. Term now refers to leather that has been tanned chemically although it once referred to leather only from Morocco. A fine silk or cotton canvas used as a base for embroidery. Heavy weight, overcoating of the shaggy, napped type, used as winterwear. Cloth gives warmth and somewhat resembles heavy Shetland cloth. There are many types and grades of the cloth, ranging from very cheap quality to highly expensive. See Bobbin net. See Crêpe cord. A fabric made with a moss crêpe weave and S- and Ztwist moss crêpe yarns in warp and weft, made in acetate, cotton, wool, polyester or viscose. This fabric has a characteristic spongy handle. Various



561 Word



Category



Short description



MOSS CRÊPE WEAVE



fabrics



A crêpe weave with a repeat in the warp and weft directions



MOSS CRÊPE YARN



fibers, filaments, yarns



A two-ply yarn made by doubling a normaltwist yarn with a hightwist yarn



MOSS FINISH



processes, operations



A fibrous structure produced by heavily fulling woollen fabrics,



MOSS YARN MOSS YARN



fibers, filaments, yarns defects fibers, filaments, yarns fibers, filaments, yarns, fabrics



A coarse woollen yarn with a fuzzy surface. Used for embroidery. See Trash. Same as Mixture, especially an incongruous mixture. Black spots in yarn or cloth due to presence of these impurities.



MOTH PROOFING



processes, operations



The treatment of wool fabrics with repellents



MOTH REPELLENT



processes, operations



The process of applying special chemical compounds



MOTE TRASH MOTELY



MOTES



Description combinations of (i) moss crêpe weave with other yarn and (ii) moss crêpe yarns with other weaves are possible. All the resulting fabrics have some but not all the characteristics of true moss crêpes. A crêpe weave with a repeat in the warp and weft directions relatively large compared with that of many other crêpe weaves. A two-ply yarn made by doubling a normal-twist yarn with a high-twist yarn, all twists being in the same direction (‘S’ or ‘Z’ A fibrous structure produced by heavily fulling woollen fabrics, although the weave remains distinctly visible. A coarse woollen yarn with a fuzzy surface. Used for embroidery. See Trash. Same as Mixture, especially an incongruous mixture. 1. Impurities in cotton consisting of tiny specks of cotton seed, or sometimes a whole, immature, undeveloped small cotton seed. 2. Black spots in yarn or cloth due to presence of these impurities. The treatment of wool fabrics with repellents to make them less susceptible to clothmoths. The process of applying special chemical compounds on fabrics,



562 Word



Category



Short description on fabrics, garments,



MOTH RESISTANT FINISH



processes, operations



Chemically imparted resistance to damage by the larvae of the clothesmoth and carpetbeetle.



MOTIF



fabrics



MOTION MARK



defects



MOTTLED FABRIC



defects



MOTTLED YARN



fibers,



Description garments, and also on upholstery, carpets, etc., to impart them the ability to resist attack by moths, carpet beetles and other insects. Chemically imparted resistance to damage by the larvae of the clothesmoth and carpetbeetle. Mothproofing of garments, knitting yarns, blankets and carpets is now more generally practiced. A design, repeat, pattern or figure used to give a certain effect in a fabric.



A design, repeat, pattern or figure used to give a certain effect in a fabric. Fabric defect. A bar, Fabric defect. A bar, seen in woven fabric, which seen in woven fabric, usually shades away to which usually shades normal fabric at both its away to normal fabric edges. It owes its at both its edges. appearance to a change in pick spacing, and may repeat at regular intervals throughout an appreciable length or even the whole length of the piece. It is usually caused due to some mechanical fault on the loom. Bars of this type associated with the take-up or let-off motions are also referred to as motion marks Fabric defect, may be Fabric defect, may be major or minor. major or minor. A term used to describe faulty printing, dyeing or finishing, where a color does not apply evenly on the fabric and appear as blotched, cloudy or mottled. Most often the cause is the slippage or inaccuracy in a roller setting. See also Cloudy goods. See Marled yarn. See Marled yarn.



563 Word



MOUFFLIN



Category filaments, yarns fabrics



MOULDING



processes, operations



MOULINAGE



processes, operations fibers, filaments, yarns



MOULINÉE



MOUNTAIN CORK



MOURNING CRÊPE



fibers, filaments, yarns fibers, filaments, yarns fibers, filaments, yarns fabrics



MOUSE SKIN MOUSSELINE



fabrics fabrics



MOUNTAIN FLESH



MOUNTAIN LEATHER



Short description



Description



A double-faced thick A double-faced thick coating fabric which is coating fabric which is soft and has an open, airy soft and has an open, surface. The yarns used airy surface. are mainly wool, or wool mixed with acrylic or mohair and used for coats and capes. The application of heat The application of heat and/or pressure to and/or pressure to fabric on fabric on a pre-shaped a pre-shaped mould, to mould shape a garment or garment parts. A French word, which A French word, which means ‘to throw silk’. means ‘to throw silk’. A French term for ply A French term for ply yarns yarns made of made of variously coloured variously coloured strands. Used for dress strands. fabrics and suiting. A variety of asbestos. A variety of asbestos.



A flexible variety of asbestos.



A flexible variety of asbestos.



A variety of asbestos consisting of naturally felted asbestos fibres. Any cloth made with a crêpe weave and dull finish used for mourning purposes. See Duvetyn. The French word literally means muslin, but now it is used to describe a better quality wool or silk fabric of this nature.



A variety of asbestos consisting of naturally felted asbestos fibres. Any cloth made with a crêpe weave and dull finish used for mourning purposes. See Duvetyn. The French word literally means muslin, but now it is used to describe a better quality wool or silk fabric of this nature. Silk mousseline: Firmer than chiffon fabric, and is cool and comfortable, but it does not wear well as laundering spoils it and dry cleaning is not always satisfactory. Used for



564 Word



Category



MOUSSELINE DE SOIE



fabrics



MOUTH



apparatus, equipage, tools apparatus, equipage, tools



MOUTH WIDTH



MOUTON



fibers, filaments, yarns



MOVABLE RETAINER



apparatus, equipage, tools



Short description



Description evening dresses. Wool mousseline: Made from worsted yarn into a plain or printed lightweight wool fabric. Excel-lent for dresses. Cotton mousseline: See Butter muslin Literally, ‘muslin of silk’ Literally, ‘muslin of silk’; silk organdie, a plain weave, silk chiffon-weight fabric with slight stiff-ness. In zippers, the opening In zippers, the opening in a in a slider that slider that receives the receives the chain. chain. In zippers, the In zippers, the measurement between measurement between the the slider flanges slider flanges at the point where they bear against the shoulders of the interlocked elements or at the outermost edges of the bead if the bead extends beyond the elements A short to medium length A short to medium fur with dense pile; the length fur with dense pile; the trade name trade name for processed, sheared sheep. Usually for processed, dyed beaver colour, or dark sheared sheep. brown, beige, grey, and occasionally red, green and blue. It has very good wearing qualities and judged by density of pile, softness, and pliability of pelt. Used for sports, business and schoolwear. In zippers, a movable In zippers, a movable or or sliding device sliding device performing a performing a similar similar function to that of function to that of the the fixed retainer, the fixed retainer purpose being to permit separation of the two stringers from the bottom, without the necessity of opening the zipper from the top. The device is not removable from the bottom



565 Word



Category



Short description



MOVE NUMBER



fabrics



Also called ‘step number’.



MOZAMBIQUE



fabrics



A lightweight, open weave gauze fabric



MUFF



fibers, filaments, yarns



An unsupported crosswound package in the shape of a lady’s muff.



MUFF DYEING



processes, operations



Skeins of yarns are wound on reels and steam-bulked to form packages called muffs.



MUGA SILK



fibers, filaments, yarns



Also called Assam silk, Munga silk.



MUL MUSLIN



fabrics



MULBERRY SILK



fibers, filaments, yarns



A fine white muslin which receives no sizing. Used for dresses. Mulberry is a hardy perennial tree



Description of the zipper. Also called ‘step number’. The number of picks by which the interlacing of a warp thread in a weave moves upwards relative to the warp thread on its immediate left. Move number can be used to describe weaves. A lightweight, open weave gauze fabric made with combed cotton warp and mohair warp in fancy plaids, checks, openwork patterns, etc. An unsupported crosswound package in the shape of a lady’s muff. Each muff has a piece of stockinette threaded through the centre and brought round each end to enclose. Yarns are conveniently dyed in this form. See also Mock cake. Skeins of yarns are wound on reels and steam-bulked to form packages called muffs. Muffs are dyed in a horizontal machine at around 140º C., dyed yarn is then unwound. See Chromatic dye-ing. Also called Assam silk, Munga silk. This silk is obtained from a species of Indian moth, and is a wild silk producing a rough surfaced lightweight fabric. A fine white muslin which receives no sizing. Used for dresses. Mulberry is a hardy perennial tree. Silk obtained from those



566 Word



Category



Short description



MULE SPINNING



processes, operations



A system of yarn spinning, using a ‘mule’ machine.



MULE TWIST



fibers, filaments, yarns



A cotton yarn spun on a mule spinning frame, as distinguished from cotton yarn spun on a ring spinning frame.



MULL



fabrics



A fabric type of lightweight cotton voile



MULMUL



fabrics



MULTI-AXIAL FABRIC



fabrics



Original term for mull, derived from the Indian and Persian term ‘malmal’. A warp-knitted construction



MULTI-PHASE LOOM apparatus, A loom in which two or equipage, more weaving cycles, tools phased differently,



Description silkworms (Bombyx mori), which feed on the mulberry leaves are called mulberry silk. These are made into fine fabrics, such as Georgette. A system of yarn spinning, using a ‘mule’ machine. The machine draws out and twists a length of yarn, then winds it up in the form of a cop, repeating the cycle several times a minute. This gives an extremely fine cotton yarn, but it is a slower process than ‘ring spinning’. A cotton yarn spun on a mule spinning frame, as distinguished from cotton yarn spun on a ring spinning frame. It is usually softer or more lofty than ring spun yarn. A fabric type of lightweight cotton voile, which was once a dress fabric but is now almost entirely confined to use as an underlining fabric, and for experimenting in draping styles, e.g. toils. Is also used for Eastern turbans. Original term for mull, derived from the Indian and Persian term ‘malmal’. Now used for mull or muslin. A warp-knitted construction in which, substantially straight, additional threads are inserted vertically (warp), horizontally (weft) and diagonally throughout the complete width and length of the fabric A loom in which two or more weaving cycles, phased differently, operate



567 Word



Category



Short description operate concurrently



Description concurrently to insert weft in the same warp MULTI-PIECE apparatus, A narrow-fabric A narrow-fabric weaving WEAVING MACHINE equipage, weaving machine machine equipped for the tools simultaneous weaving of two or more pieces. MULTI-PROCESS fibers, A generic identification A generic identification for YARN filaments, for filament yarns that filament yarns that have yarns have been subjected been subjected to at least two texturing techniques. to at least two See also Single-process texturing techniques. yarns A fabric in which at least MULTICOMPONENT fabrics A fabric in which at two layers of material are FABRIC least two layers of sealed together by an material are sealed adhesive or other process. together by an adhesive or other process. Yarn consisting of more MULTIFILAMENT fibers, Yarn consisting of than one fine filament, YARN filaments, more than one fine yarns filament, usually 60 or usually 60 or more. See Continuous filament yarn more. MULTILEVEL PILE garments, In pile yarn floorIn pile yarn floor-covering, made-ups, covering, pile in which pile in which some tuft legs assemblies some tuft legs are are substantially longer substantially longer than others. than others. Man-made fibres and MULTILOBAL fibers, Man-made fibres and filaments are usually filaments, filaments are usually produced with a circular yarns produced with a circular cross-section, cross-section, but fibres are now available with trilobal but fibres are now available with trilobal cross-sections, octalobal cross-sections, etc. The cross-sections, physical and chemical octalobal crosscharacteristics are the sections, etc. same as the standard yarn, but the multilobal structure gives a unique highlight and sparkle effect to the fabrics produced from these yarns. Prints applied to both woven and knitted fabric have a good clarity and definition. Other variations in crosssections have included the production of flat ribbon-like



568 Word



Category



Short description



MULTIPLE FABRIC



fabrics



Double, triple or even quadruple cloth bound together during weaving by interlacing the warp and weft of the individual cloths



MULTIPLE LENGTH STAPLE FIBRES



fibers, filaments, yarns



MULTIPLE WOUND



fibers, filaments, yarns fibers, filaments, yarns



Man-made staple fibres that are two or more times the nominal cut fibre length. Filament yarn consisting of two or more filaments. A generic identification for filament ply yarns composed of singles with varied kinds of texturing. A machine zigzag pattern of stitching



MULTIPLEX YARNS



MULTISTEP ZIGZAG



general



MULTITHREAD CHAIN STITCHES MULTIVOLTINE SILK



general



MUMMY CANVAS



fibers, filaments, yarns fabrics



MUMMY CLOTH



fabrics



Description filaments, used as decorative yarns and artificial grass. Double, triple or even quadruple cloth bound together during weaving by interlacing the warp and weft of the individual cloths. These have broad applications, particularly industrial. Man-made staple fibres that are two or more times the nominal cut fibre length. (Compare Overlength staple fibres.) Filament yarn consisting of two or more filaments. A generic identification for filament ply yarns composed of singles with varied kinds of texturing.



A machine zigzag pattern of stitching in which each zigzag is formed of a number of straight stitches rather than of a single stitch as in a standard zigzag pattern. See Interlock stitches. See Interlock stitches. See Polyvoltine silk.



Canvas similar to Mummy Cloth.



See Polyvoltine silk.



Canvas similar to Mummy Cloth., but with a coarse mesh and an irregular, rather than crèpy, surface. Used for embroidery. Also called Grannie Also called Grannie cloth cloth and Momie cloth. and Momie cloth. Fabric with a crinkled surface like crèpe, but made with noncrèpe yarns and woven on a dobby loom. It can be



569 Word



Category



Short description



MUNGA SILK



fibers, filaments, yarns fibers, filaments, yarns, fabrics



See Muga silk



MUNGO



MUSHROOM FASTERNER



MUSLIN



Description bleached, dyed or printed. The fibres include silk warp and woolen weft or cotton with silk. The fabric lacks luster, and has been a traditional mourning fabric, but is not much used now. The name is also used for the fine linen fabric used in ancient Egypt for wrapping mummies. See Muga silk



Cheap, poor quality 1. Waste yarn from woollen wool fabric made from mills which is mixed with mill wastes. other yarn, such as cotton, to produce cheap cloth for specialist use such as backing fibre. See also Remanufactured wool. 2. Cheap, poor quality wool fabric made from mill wastes. Because of this the fibre staple is short and it does not wear well. Colours are often poor and drab. Not used for clothes, but may be used for some types of stage costume. Also called Shoddy. accessories A fastener comprising A fastener comprising two two tapes, both being tapes, both being pile pile fabrics. fabrics. One tape has monofilament pile ends that have been severed with the aid of heat, thus providing molten mushroom shaped pile ends and the other tape is usually from a knitted fabric with loop pile. On offering one tape to the other, a secure closure is obtained which can be opened by peeling from either end. See also Touch and close fas-tener. fabrics Also called Diaper Also called Diaper cloth.



570 Word



Category



MUSLINETTE



fabrics



MUSQUASH



fibers, filaments, yarns



MUSSINESS



defects



MUTKA



fabrics



MYSORE SILK



fabrics



Short description Description cloth. Soft, light Soft, light weight, open weight, open cloth, of cloth, of plain weave or plain weave or simple simple leno weave, with a leno weave, with a rough finish. The wide rough finish. unfinished variety is ideal to use as a pressing cloth. Muslin as a dress fabric is rarely used now mainly due to severe creasing and shrinking problems. Difficult to cut straight as the weave is so open and movable. Some of these cloths are used in the grey, whereas others meant for dress fabrics are bleached and dyed. See also Madras muslin, and under Sheeting. Muslins, as applied to beds sheeting, is a plain weave fabric with not fewer than 128 yarns/inch2 (645 mm2). A coarse muslin, 1. A coarse muslin, usually usually sized. sized. 2. In England, a trade term for a heavy muslin fabric used for dresses, sometimes striped and satin finished. Fur from the coat of Fur from the coat of the the muskrat muskrat. Long, downy, gray fur with darker brown, but is often dyed to various colors, including pale honey Fabric defect. Fabric defect. Surface distortion in a fabric characterized by undesirable unevenness due to many minor deformations A coarse, silk fabric A coarse, silk fabric made made in Punjab, India. in Punjab, India. Generally Generally green. green. Used mainly for loincloths. A fine, soft Indian silk A fine, soft Indian silk dress dress material; very material; very popular.



571 Word



Category



Short description popular.



Description Usually made in plain, dyed or prints, generally with floral designs



N Word N.P.I.



Category apparatus, equipage, tools



Short description A term referring to the ‘Number of Needles per Inch’ in the needle bed or cylinder of a knitting machine



NACRÉ PRINTS



fabrics



A blurred effect produced by printing cloth while it is damp, so that colour seeps away from design.



NACRÉ VELVET



fabrics



A velvet fabric in which the backing is woven in a different color from the pile



NAILHEAD



fabrics



Woven-in designs including dots, bird’s eye, hopsack and small houndstooth



NAINSOOK



fabrics



Soft, fine, light cotton fabric made from combed yarns, in plain weave, often mercerized, similar to Batiste in the piece.



NAINSOOK FINISH



processes, A soft finish with slight operations lustre on both sides of the fabric.



Description A term referring to the ‘Number of Needles per Inch’ in the needle bed or cylinder of a knitting machine; sometimes mistakenly referred to as ‘gauge’. A blurred effect produced by printing cloth while it is damp, so that colour seeps away from design. Similar to result achieved by printing warp yarns before weaving. The word ‘nacré’ means changeable, iridescent A velvet fabric in which the backing is woven in a different color from the pile, giving an interesting, changeable appearance in wear. Woven-in designs including dots, bird’s eye, hopsack and small houndstooth; usually found in clear finished, sharkskin type worsteds. Soft, fine, light cotton fabric made from combed yarns, in plain weave, often mercerized, similar to Batiste in the piece. Once a popular dress fabric but now mainly used as ready-toapply soft cotton bias binding. A soft finish with slight lustre on both sides of the fabric. No sizing is used. English



572 Word



NAKED WOOL



Category



Short description



garments, A new kind of made-ups, lightweight 100% wool assemblies garment.



NANDEL



fibers, filaments, yarns, fabrics



Acrylic fabrics with rotofil yarn made of short fibres bound together by a surface filament fibre.



NAP



fabrics



A fuzzy or downy surface produced on a fabric or felt in which, part of the fibre is raised from the basic structure, either on one side or both



Description nainsook has a soft finish, while French nainsook has crisper, calendered finish. A new kind of lightweight 100% wool garment. Claimed to be always ‘naturally’ comfortable, warm when the weather is chilly, and cool when the weather is chilly, and cool when it is hot. Acrylic fabrics with rotofil yarn made of short fibres bound together by a surface filament fibre. The filament/staple wrapped yarn made by a special process. Fabrics made of this yarn are fuzz resistant, pill resistant, shrink resistant, wrinkle resistant, machine washable, dryable, needs little or no ironing and have good dimensional stability. Used for dress and sport shirts. A fuzzy or downy surface produced on a fabric or felt in which, part of the fibre is raised from the basic structure, either on one side or both. Nap may be raised in stripes or other patterns or may be sheared to obtain uniform length. Loosely twisted yarns are incorporated in fabric, which is to be napped to facilitate this process; generally used in the weft. The interlacings between the warp and weft threads are covered to a great extent by the nap, which also acts as an insulator. The length of the nap varies in the different fabrics which are given this type of finish, e.g. flannel,



573 Word



NAPERY



NAPHTHALATING



NAPHTHOL COLOURS NAPIER



NAPPA LEATHER



NAPPED FABRICS



NAPPER



Category



Short description



Description blanketing, overcoating. Certain knit goods also are napped, such as the various types of brushed knit fabrics of man-made fibres. The brushing is done generally with wire brushes or teasel burrs. Nap is not to be confused with pile, which is formed by extra yarn in a different operation. fabrics A general term for A general term for tablecloths, napkins tablecloths, napkins and and other household other household linens, linens, made of linen or made of linen or cotton. cotton. A process by which virgin processes, A process by which wool is gently cleansed in operations virgin wool is gently cleansed in three baths three baths of naphtha and of naphtha and then then rinsed in clean flowing rinsed in clean flowing water. No soap or alkaline solutions are used; raking, water. forking, and excessive handling are eliminated. The wool retains its original life, strength, and resiliency. apparatus, See Azoic dyes See Azoic dyes equipage, tools fabrics A double-faced 1. A double-faced overcoating with wool overcoating with wool face face and vicuna or and vicuna or goat’s hair goat’s hair back. back. 2. A floor covering of good quality made of hemp and jute This is the skin of sheep or fabrics This is the skin of sheep or goats that goats that has been tanned by a Californian process has been tanned by a using oil. Californian process using oil. fabrics Fabrics finished with a Fabrics finished with a nap nap on one side or on one side or both sides. both sides. The nap might cover the entire fabric or only parts of its surface apparatus, A finishing operation A finishing operation



574 Word



NAPPING



NAPPING COTTON



NAPPY FABRIC



NARROW ELASTIC FABRIC



Category Short description Description equipage, machine on which machine on which napping tools napping is carried out. is carried out. See Napping. processes, Also called Raising. Also called Raising. A operations finishing process in which part of the fibres from the basic structure of a textile material are raised to the surface by means of revolving cylinders covered with metal points or teazle burrs. Apart from teazling, other means like brushing, or rubbing also may be employed for producing such a layer of protruding fibres on the surface of fabrics. Napping finish is usually given to fabrics such as outing flannel, wool broadcloth, knit goods, blankets, etc. fibers, A generally short, A generally short, crinkly filaments, crinkly cotton fibre with cotton fibre with good yarns good napping napping properties. Used in properties. the manufacture of blankets and other napped fabrics serving as excellent insulators because through its use there are numerous air cells or pockets. Fabric defect. An excessive defects Fabric defect. An excessive number of number of small tangles or small tangles or knots knots of fibre appearing on the fabric surface. The of fibre appearing on defect is often caused by the fabric surface. poor carding or combing of fibre or by contamination during preparation for spinning. fabrics An elastic fabric that is An elastic fabric that is less less than 150 mm, in than 150 mm, in width. The width. main types are: (i) elastic web or narrow woven elastic, (ii) elastic braid, flat or tubular, (iii) crochet-knit elastic, and (iv) narrow elastic lace. (Compare Wide elastic fabric.)



575 Word NARROW FABRIC



NARROW GOODS



NARROWING



Category Short description Description accessories Any textile fabric made Any textile fabric made by by interlacing fibres or interlacing fibres or yarns which (in the U.K.) does not yarns which (in the U.K.) does not exceed exceed 45 cm, and (in the U.S.A. and other countries) 45 cm, and (in the does not exceed 30 cm. U.S.A. and other Narrow fabrics are countries) does not characterized by the edges, exceed 30 cm. which are their essential feature. The category of narrow fabrics includes tapes, ribbons, and webbings. Narrow fabrics can be produced from any textile fibre, including elastomers, by weaving, braiding, knitting or other methods. They can also be made by cutting or slitting wider fabrics into narrow strips. It is to be noted, that the term ‘narrow fabric’ is incorrectly applied in some sections of the trade to fabrics which are narrower than the normal width for a specific fabric type. defects Fabric defect. Fabric Fabric defect. Fabric that that has not been has not been finished to the finished to the proper proper width. Usually width. caused by excessive treatment in one or more finishing operations. Though narrow width can be traced to many causes, the main reason could be improper stentering, where for some reason or other the cloth is not brought out at the specified width. processes, In knitting, a movement In knitting, a movement of operations of loops inwards at the loops inwards at the selvage of a piece of fabric. The selvage of a piece of result is a decrease in the fabric. number of loops in the succeeding course. The term is used to describe the action of carrying this out



576 Word



Category



NATTÉ



fabrics



NATURAL



general



NATURAL DRAW RATIO



fibers, filaments, yarns apparatus, equipage, tools



NATURAL DYES



NATURAL FIBRES



fibers, filaments, yarns



NATURAL FLAX



fibers, filaments, yarns fibers, filaments, yarns



NATURAL RUBBER FIBRE



Short description



Description and the actual site of it. A silk or rayon fabric A silk or rayon fabric made with different coloured warp and filling in a loose basket weave. Undyed or unbleached, Undyed or unbleached, in in the natural state. the natural state. Wool or cotton fibres often possess a natural grey, fawn, yellow, beige, brown or other colour. Textiles are often tinted or dyed to suggest a ‘natural’ colour. See under Draw ratio See under Draw ratio



Dyes obtained from Dyes obtained from some some natural source, natural source, e.g. indigo e.g. indigo dye from a dye from a plant and plant and cochineal cochineal dye from an dye from an insect. insect. Application of natural dyes needs extensive pretreatments with mordants. Most natural dyes have been replaced by synthetic dyes, because synthetic dyes are usually purer, cheaper and of better fastness. Textile fibres are Textile fibres are primarily primarily categorized categorized into natural into natural fibres and fibres and man-made fibres. man-made fibres. Natural fibres are those fibres, which occur naturally, as distinct from the manmade fibres. It is a class name for various genera of fibres (including filaments) of vegetable, animal and mineral ori-gin. See Green flax. See Green flax.



Term indicates a fibre Term indicates a fibre that is that is made from a made from a specific specific substance, substance, natural rubber, natural rubber and it is therefore a



577 Word



Category



NE



general



NEATENING



Short description



See Non-elastic elongation. processes, Finishing a cut edge to operations prevent fraying.



NEATNESS



fibers, filaments, yarns



NECK



fibers, filaments, yarns



NECKING



processes, operations



NECKTIE



garments, made-ups, assemblies



NEEDLE



apparatus, equipage, tools



A term used for raw silk yarn



Description descriptive term based upon the chemical constitution of the fibre. See Non-elastic elongation. Finishing a cut edge to prevent fraying. Various methods can be employed like turning in the edge, pinking, overedging, taping, etc. A term used for raw silk yarn to indicate the degree of freedom from loops, nibs and hairiness. In the process of drawing synthetic filaments or films, the relatively short length over which a reduction in cross-sectional area occurs as a result of stretching beyond a critical value. Commercial drawing processes for man-made In synthetic fibres, the abrupt reduction in diameter that may occur when an undrawn filament is stretched.



In the process of drawing synthetic filaments or films, the relatively short length over which a reduction in cross-sectional area occurs as a result of stretching beyond a critical value. In synthetic fibres, the abrupt reduction in diameter that may occur when an undrawn filament is stretched. A decorative band of A decorative band of fabric fabric worn around the worn around the neck and tied in a knot or bow. neck and tied in a knot or bow. GENERAL. A long wire 1. GENERAL. A long wire with an eye. with an eye. 2. IN SEWING MACHINE, a thin shaft of drawn steel wire used for sewing, pointed at one or both ends, with an eye or a hook for thread or yarn. 3. IN KNITTING, an instrument used for intermeshing loops in knitting. There is normally one needle for each wale.



578 Word



NEEDLE BED



Category



Short description



Description Bearded needle: Also called Spring needle. A needle formed of one piece of spring steel having a long terminal hook or beard that can be flexed by an action known as pressing. The beard returns to its original position when the pressure is removed. Carbine needle: A needle similar in shape to a bearded needle but with the beard shielded by a shoulder on the stem. The needle may only be lapped in one direction for the yarn to pass under the beard. A presser is not necessary, as the needle is self-acting, the shoulder passing the loop onto the beard. The needle has a limited use, mainly in crochet-type machines. Double-ended needle: A needle having a hook and a latch (or a beard) at each end. Latch needle: A needle having a small terminal hook closed by a pivoting latch. The action is automatic as the fabric loop overturns the latch and allows the loop to be knocked over. The newly formed loop is drawn by the hook, and loop-forming and knock-over proceed simultaneously. Two-piece needle: Also called Compound needle. A needle having two separately controlled parts; a hook member and a hookclosing member. apparatus, A flat metal plate A flat metal plate equipage, constituting one of the constituting one of the tools essential parts of a flat essential parts of a flat



579 Word



NEEDLE COOLER



NEEDLE DAMAGE



Category



Short description knitting machine.



apparatus, In sewing machine, a equipage, device for blowing a jet tools of cool air onto the needle during sewing. defects Sewing defect in sewn fabrics.



NEEDLE FEED



apparatus, equipage, tools



In sewing machine, a feed mechanism



NEEDLE FELT



fabrics



A textile composed of natural, man-made, or a combination of natural and man-made fibres physically interlocked



NEEDLE GAUGE



apparatus, equipage, tools defects



The distance between needles on a sewing machine. IN SEWING. A major defect, caused by bent needle forming distorted stitches



NEEDLE LINE



Description knitting machine. The plate (bed) is slotted at regular intervals to hold the knitting needles. In sewing machine, a device for blowing a jet of cool air onto the needle during sewing. 1. Sewing defect in sewn fabrics. The partial or complete yarn severance or fibre fusing caused by a needle passing through a fabric during sewing. 2. Damage caused to the material by the needle during sewing In sewing machine, a feed mechanism in which the feeding of the material is accomplished or assisted by the needle which moves forward by one stitch while it is through the material. A textile composed of natural, man-made, or a combination of natural and man-made fibres physically interlocked by the action of a needle loom with or without combination of other textile fabrics and with or without suitable combination of mechanical work, chemical action, moisture, and heat, but without weaving, knitting, stitching, thermal bonding, or adhesives. The distance between needles on a sewing machine. 1. IN SEWING. A major defect, caused by bent needle forming distorted stitches (vertical line). Now, most machines have stopping device to stop the



580 Word



NEEDLE LOOM SEVEDGE



NEEDLE LOOP NEEDLE PLATE



NEEDLE POINT



Category



Short description



Description machine, when this happens. 2. IN KNITTING. A wale that is different in configuration from the adjacent normal wales. It is usually caused by a misaligned or broken needle which forms distorted stitches. A narrow fabric selvedge. A accessories A narrow fabric double pick is inserted into selvedge. A double each successive shed from pick is inserted into each successive shed one side of the fabric. The selvedge at the side of the from one side of the loom from which the double fabric. pick is inserted is secured by the structure of the fabric (the outside end is made to change sheds), and at the opposite selvedge successive loops of weft are locked by any one of the following: (i) knitting successive loops together, (ii) knitting a catch-thread through the loops, (iii) knitting a catch-thread through the loops together with a locking thread, or (iv) passing a catchthread through each loop by means of a small shuttle fabrics See under Knitted See under Knitted loop. loop. apparatus, See Throat plate See Throat plate equipage, tools fabrics A hand-made lace A hand-made lace made by made by stitching stitching according to a according to a predetermined plan, a predetermined plan, a sewing needle and thread sewing needle and being used. This was thread being used. originally a type of fine drawn thread work, but it has developed into a craft in which satin stitch and buttonhole stitch are worked over a basic thread.



581 Word NEEDLE POSITIONER



Short description In sewing machine, a device which ensures that the needle will stop automatically either in or out of the fabric as required NEEDLE TRANSFER processes, In knitting, the transfer operations of a double-headed latch needle from a slider in one bed or cylinder to the slider in the bed or cylinder opposite. NEEDLE-RUN LACE fabrics Lace in which the objects are formed or outlined by embroidering onto a net or lace base. NEEDLEBONDED fabrics Fabric in which two or FABRIC more webs of fibres are needled together.



NEEDLEBONDING NEEDLECORD



NEEDLED FABRIC NEEDLEFELT NEEDLE



Category apparatus, equipage, tools



processes, operations fabrics



See Needling.



Description In sewing machine, a device which ensures that the needle will stop automatically either in or out of the fabric as required In knitting, the transfer of a double-headed latch needle from a slider in one bed or cylinder to the slider in the bed or cylinder opposite.



Lace in which the objects are formed or outlined by embroidering onto a net or lace base. Fabric in which two or more webs of fibres are needled together. A batt of fibre is passed under, or between, barbed needles which pass up and down through the batt locking the fibres together. See Needling.



Lightweight corduroy Lightweight corduroy fabric fabric usually cotton, usually cotton, with and very short pile and very fine with and very short pile cords the length of the and very fine cords the fabric, used for dresses. length of the fabric, Made in, can be printed. It used for dresses. may be plain piece dyed colors or printed and is hardwearing and usually washable, with one way pile. See also Corduroy. fabrics See Needle-bonded See Needle-bonded fabric, fabric, Needlefelt Needlefelt apparatus, Also called Felting Also called Felting needle. A equipage, needle. barbed needle mounted in a tools needle loom to cause fibre reorientation and entanglement during needling.



582 Word NEEDLEFELTING NEEDLEIZING



NEEDLELOOM



NEEDLEPUNCHED



Category processes, operations processes, operations



Short description See Needling.



Description See Needling.



A method of removing 1. A method of removing properties of a cloth properties of a cloth and its and its finish finish in order to make sewing easier (by overcoming resistance to the needle). The finish of a quaduga cloth.. 1. FOR NARROW apparatus, FOR NARROW FABRICS. A shuttleless equipage, FABRICS. A weaving machine in which tools shuttleless weaving the weft is drawn from a machine in which the stationary supply and weft is drawn from a stationary supply and introduced into the shed in the form of a double-pick by introduced into the shed in the form of a a weft inserter needle. The weft is retained at the double-pick by a weft opposite selvedge by the inserter needle. action of knitting, or by the introduction of a locking thread from a separate supply. 2. FOR NONWOVENS. A machine for producing needlefelt. A needle beam reciprocates vertically at rates of upto2000 cycles/minute (33Hz). Felting needles are mounted in a board at a density of 300-5000 per metre width and pass through a web or batt, which is supported between bed and stripper plates A method of constructing a processes, A method of nonwoven fabric. Barbed operations constructing a needles are forced nonwoven fabric. (punched) through a thick Barbed needles are web or fleece of fibres. forced (punched) through a thick web or When these barbed needles are withdrawn, enough fleece of fibres fibres are displaced or entangled to constitute a nonwoven fabric, used for blankets, outerwear, filters



583 Word



Category



Short description



Description and papermaker’s felts. See Needle loom. A textile filling material NEEDLEPUNCHED accessories A textile filling material which is stabilized by BATTING which is stabilized by mechanically entangling the mechanically fibres. entangling the fibres. NEEDLEPUNCHING processes, See Needling See Needling operations NEEDLEWORK processes, A general term for work A general term for work operations performed with a performed with a needle, needle such as embroidery, knitting, some lace work, sewing. NEEDLING processes, Also called Also called Needlepunching, operations Needlepunching, Needlefelting, Needlefelting, Needlebonding. The use of Needlebonding. barbed needles, mounted in a needleloom, to entangle a fibre web or batt by mechanical reorientation of some of the fibres within its structure. NEEEDLES PER garments, In tufted pile yarn floor In tufted pile yarn floor UNIT WIDTH made-ups, covering, the number covering, the number of assemblies of binding sites per unit binding sites per unit of floor of floor covering width covering width; needles being the means of inserting the pile yarn into the backing fabric. NEGATIVE BEAT-UP processes, An impulsive beat-up An impulsive beat-up operations system using a light system using a light reed reed and lay which are and lay which are not not positively driven. positively driven. NEGATIVE processes, See Shedding. An operation in which the SHEDDING operations movement of the healds or harness is controlled in one direction only, the return movement being effected by springs or weights. See Shedding. NEGATIVE TAKE-UP processes, A take-up system not A take-up system not operations positively driven positively driven, often powered from the beat-up mechanism. NEOPRENE fibers, Application of Application of TREATED filaments, polychloroprene rubber polychloroprene rubber yarns compound on glass compound on glass fibre, to



584 Word



Category



NEP



defects



NEPP YARN



fibers, filaments, yarns defects



NEPPY YARN



NESTLING DOWN



fibers, filaments, yarns



NESTLING FEATHERS



fibers, filaments, yarns fabrics



NET



Short description fibre,



Description improve the stability, knot holding properties, and abrasion resistance of the cord 1. One or more fibres One or more fibres occurring in a tightly occurring in a tightly tangled tangled unorganized unorganized mass; a small mass; a small knot of knot of entangled fi-bres in the yarn. In the case of entangled fi-bres in the cotton it usually comprises yarn. dead, tangled, immature cotton hairs, and loose waste particles which more or less roll into little balls as the stock is being processed. 2. Fabric defect. Nep specks appearing in fabric surface is are very detrimental to most cotton fab-rics. (Compare Pills.) See Knickerbocker See Knickerbocker yarn yarn Yarn defect. A yarn in Yarn defect. A yarn in which the incidence of neps which the incidence of occurs at a relatively high neps occurs at a level. relatively high level. A down not fully developed A down not fully with a sheath and with soft developed with a barbs emanating from the sheath and with soft sheath. barbs emanating from the sheath. Immature feathers Immature feathers in which the barbs are held together and covered by a sheath. An open-mesh fabric in An open-mesh fabric in which a firm structure is which a firm structure ensured by some form of is ensured by some twist, interlocking, or knitting form of twist, of the yarn. It may be interlocking, or knitting produced by gauze of the yarn. weaving, knitting, or knotting, or on a lace machine. Net may be made from cotton, viscose, nylon, polyester and other fibres, according to its ultimate



585 Word



Category



Short description



Description use. Made in varying sizes of mesh and used for curtains, dance dresses, veiling and trim-mings. See also Plain net . NET EMBROIDERY processes, Any type of needlework Any type of needlework operations (embroidery) done on a (embroidery) done on a net net ground. ground. Also called Nett silk. Also called Nett silk. NET SILK fibers, 1. YARN. Raw silk filaments filaments, or strands that have been yarns, processed into yarns by fabrics twisting and folding or both, as opposed to spun silk. 2. FABRIC. Fabrics produced from net silk yarn. NETT SILK fibers, See Net silk. See Net silk. filaments, yarns, fabrics NETTING fabrics See Mesh. See Mesh. NETTLE fibers, A nautical term for a A nautical term for a small filaments, small line made of two line made of two strands of yarns strands of rope yarn rope yarn. Nettles are halves of yarns in the end of a rope twisted up for printing. Also called ‘Knittle’ NETTLE CLOTH fabrics See China- grass See China- grass A fine, short stem fibre NETTLE FIBRE fibers, A fine, short stem fibre obtained from two species filaments, obtained from two yarns species of the stinging of the stinging nettle Urtica nettle Urtica dioica and dioica and Urtica urena, either by retting or Urtica urena decorticating. A rope constructed in the NETURAL ROPE garments, A rope constructed in made-ups, the arrangement of the arrangement of the twists of assemblies twists of its component its component plies and final plies and final state state so as to resist twisting or untwisting. An acid dye which has NEUTRAL DYEING apparatus, An acid dye which has ACID DYE equipage, substantivity for wool, substantivity for wool, silk and polyamide, when tools silk and polyamide, when applied from a applied from a neutral bath. neutral bath. NEUTRALIZE processes, To make either an To make either an alkaline operations alkaline or an acid or an acid condition neutral. condition neutral.



586 Word NEW FIBRE



NEW WOOL



NEW ZEALAND FLAX NEW ZEALAND TWILLS



NEWAR



NIB



NICKED SEVEDGE



NINON



NINTY-DAYCOTTON



NIP



Category fibers, filaments, yarns fibers, filaments, yarns fibers, filaments, yarns fabrics



Short description See Virgin fibre



Description See Virgin fibre



See Virgin wool.



See Virgin wool.



See Phormium tenax.



See Phormium tenax.



A very coarse jute fabric A very coarse jute fabric made in a two made in a two up, two down twill weave. Used for up, two down twill bagging and other purposes weave. garments, A cotton tape made on A cotton tape made on made-ups, handlooms in India. handlooms in India. Used assemblies for cots. defects A defect in raw silk A defect in raw silk yarn yarn consisting of small thickened places less than 1/9 inch long. Also spelled ‘knibs’ fabrics Small cut (nick) made Small cut (nick) made into into the selvedge by the selvedge by the folding the folding machine machine hooker. hooker. fabrics Sometimes called Sometimes called Ttriple Ttriple voile, is of plain voile, is of plain weave and weave and sheer. sheer. Usually viscose or acetate but may be polyester. Should not be confused with ‘nylon’, because of the similarity of its name. Used mainly for sheer curtains. Fairly slippery. fibers, An American cotton An American cotton that filaments, that matures early. matures early. It has a yarns medium-sized boll and its fibres are approximately ¾ inch long. apparatus, The line of contact in 1. The line or area of equipage, the jaws of a tensile contact or proximity tools testing machine. between two contiguous surfaces that move so as to compress and or control the velocity of textile material passed between them.



587 Word



Category



Short description



NIP CRESES



defects



A defect occurring regularly along a fabric selvedge following a nipping operation such as padding or calendering.



NIP ROLLER



NITO



NITROCELLULOSE RAYON NO IRON



apparatus, One or a pair of rollers equipage, intended to run with tools their cylindrical surfaces in contact or separated only by yarn or other textile material.



fibers, filaments, yarns fibers, filaments, yarns fabrics



A coarse fibre similar to coir.



Description 2. The pressure area between two cylinders. In a padding mangle, for instance, the cloth passes through the nip to have excess liquid squeezed out. 3. The line of contact in the jaws of a tensile testing machine. 3. The line of contact in the jaws of a tensile testing machine. 4. See Station A defect occurring regularly along a fabric selvedge following a nipping operation such as padding or calendering. Caused by loosely wound selvedge or improper let-off tension which allows the fabric to gather or fold over at the selvedge before it enters the nip of the rolls. One or a pair of rollers intended to run with their cylindrical surfaces in contact or separated only by yarn or other textile material. The two rollers are intended to have the same surface speed and one normally drives the other by frictional contact. A coarse fibre similar to coir.



Rayon produced by the Rayon produced by the cellulose nitrate cellulose nitrate process. process. A fabric of either 100% A fabric of either 100% man-made fibres or a man-made fibres or a blend of man-made and natural blend of man-made fibres. Resin treatment plus and natural fibres. curing and heat pressing may or may not be used. Texture is smooth and requires no ironing or



588 Word



Category



Short description



NO IRON COTTON



fabrics



NO-THROW



fibers, filaments, yarns



Cotton fabric finished so as to require little or no ironing before wear and after washing. A very soft silk yarn composed of two or more untwisted singles twisted together with the minimum amount of turns necessary



NOIL



fibers, filaments, yarns



Also called Baurette.



NOIL STRIPES



fabrics



Striped fabrics made of cotton and silk or worsted noil.



NOMINAL GAUGE LENGTH



apparatus, In testing, the length of equipage, a specimen under tools specpre-tension



NON-AUTOMATIC LOOM



apparatus, A loom in which empty equipage, shuttles are replaced tools by full ones by hand.



Description pressing after washing. Durable press refers to a fabric treated with resin, followed by curing and hot head pressing to set durable creases and pleats so that no further pressing is ever needed. Cotton fabric finished so as to require little or no ironing before wear and after washing. A very soft silk yarn composed of two or more untwisted singles twisted together with the minimum amount of turns necessary to bind the strands to prevent them from forming loops in the yarn. Also called Baurette. The comparatively very short fibres removed from longer fibres of wool, silk, cotton, viscose, etc. by combing, a preparatory process before spinning. These are sometimes used in the manufacture of carded yarns. See also Silk noil and Remanufactured Wool. Striped fabrics made of cotton and silk or worsted noil. The stripes are formed by noil ends dyed in bright colours. Dyed black cotton yarns are generally used in the rest of the warp and in the weft. In testing, the length of a specimen under specpretension, measured from nip to nip of the jaws of the holding clamps in their starting position A loom in which empty shuttles are replaced by full ones by hand.



589 Word NON-CELLULOSIC SYNTHETIC FIBRE



NON-CHLORINE BLEACH



Category fibers, filaments, yarns



Short description Man-made fibres that are produced from chemical polymers other than cellulose.



apparatus, A bleach that does not equipage, release the tools hypochlorite ion in solution



NON-CHLORINE processes, See Chlorine resistant RETENTIVE FINISH operations finish. NONfabrics A textile that will COMBUSTIBLE neither ignite nor give TEXTILE off vapors that will ignite when subjected to external sources of ignition. (Compare Combustible textile.) NON-CONFORMITY general An occurrence of failing to satisfy the requirements of the applicable specification NON-CRUSHABLE LINEN



NON-ELASTIC ELONGATION (NE)



NON-FIBROUS MATTER



NON-FLAMMABLE



fabrics



A fabric with tightly twisted weft, in plain weave, finished with a resin treatment to give elasticity. Uses are similar to those of dress linen. Launders easily, are wrinkleresistant and durable. general Elongation of rope which is not reclaimed after the strain is removed and then reapplied immedi-ately. fibers, Those oils, fats, waxes, filaments, dressings, salts and yarns other soluble materials, all or some of which may be pre-sent in a fibre mixture. fabrics Any combustible textile



Description Man-made fibres that are produced from chemical polymers other than cellulose. Nylon, acrylic, modacrylic, polyester, olefin and spandex are in this category. A bleach that does not release the hypochlorite ion in solution, e.g. sodium perborate, sodium percarbonate. See Chlorine resistant finish. A textile that will neither ignite nor give off vapors that will ignite when subjected to external sources of ignition. (Compare Combustible textile.) An occurrence of failing to satisfy the requirements of the applicable specification; a condition that results in a nonconforming item. A fabric with tightly twisted weft, in plain weave, finished with a resin treatment to give elasticity. Uses are similar to those of dress linen. Launders easily, are wrinkle-resistant and durable. Elongation of rope which is not reclaimed after the strain is removed and then reapplied immedi-ately. Those oils, fats, waxes, dressings, salts and other soluble materials, all or some of which may be present in a fibre mixture. Any combustible textile that



590 Word TEXTILE



Category



Short description that burns without a flame.



Description burns without a flame. See also Glow, Smouldering, (Compare Flam-mable textile, Combustible textile, Non-combustible textile.) NON-INFLAMMABLE fabrics Use preferred term Use preferred term NonTEXTILE Non-flammable textile. flammable textile. NON-LINT fibers, That portion of a mass That portion of a mass of CONTENT filaments, of cotton fibre which is cotton fibre which is yarns essentially foreign essentially foreign matter. matter. NON-PERMANENT processes, A finish that is removed A finish that is removed FINISH operations when subjected to when subjected to such such agents as friction, agents as friction, laundering, light, heat. laundering, light, heat. NONgeneral See Permanent See Permanent RECOVERABLE deformation. deformation. DEFORMATION NONgeneral See Permanent See Permanent RECOVERABLE deformation. deformation. STRETCH NON-SEPARABLE apparatus, In zippers, a zipper In zippers, a zipper having ZIPPER equipage, having two stringers two stringers that are tools that are permanently permanently attached to attached to each other each other at either or both at either or both ends. ends. (Compare Separable zipper.) NON-SLIP FINISH processes, A finish applied to a A finish applied to a yarn to make it resistant to slipping operations yarn to make it and sliding when in contact resistant to slipping with another yarn. and sliding when in contact with another yarn. NON-TEXTILE accessories General merchandise, General merchandise, for use in clothing or home for use in clothing or furnishings, that is not home furnishings, that manufactured from fibre. is not manufactured from fibre. NONgeneral Not capable of being Not capable of being THERMOPLASTIC softened by heat. softened by heat. NON-TORQUE fibers, A stretch yarn that has A stretch yarn that has no tendency to rotate when YARN filaments, no tendency to rotate permitted to hang freely. yarns when permitted to See also Torque yarn. hang freely. NONSHRINK processes, See Shrinkage and See Shrinkage and Shrunk operations Shrunk finish. finish.



591 Word NONSHRINKABLE WOOL



Category fibers, filaments, yarns



NONWATERFOWL FEATHERS



fibers, filaments, yarns



NONWOVEN BLANKET NONWOVEN FABRICS



fabrics fabrics



Short description Wool treated chemically to resist shrinkage



Description Wool treated chemically to resist shrinkage, especially felting shrinkage, by partial destruction or masking of the scales of the fibre. Various methods use chlorine or resin. See Chlorination and Chlorinated wool. Feathers derived from Feathers derived from chickens, turkeys, or chickens, turkeys, or other other landfowl. landfowl. Same as Landfowl feathers. See under Blanket. See under Blanket. A textile structure produced by bonding or interlocking of fibres, or both, accomplished by mechanical, chemical, thermal, or solvent means and combinations thereof.



A textile structure produced by bonding or interlocking of fibres, or both, accomplished by mechanical, chemical, thermal, or solvent means and combinations thereof. Any manufactured sheet or web, of random fibre, held together by physical or chemical means or both. A layer of threads ordered or random laid, made of staple fibres made by either the wet or dry process. The hardening is then effected either mechanically or by means of a swelling or binding agent. Excluded from this definition are woven, knitted, stitchbonded, felt and paper fabrics. The fibres most commonly used for nonwovens are nylon, polyester and viscose. There are several different methods used for the formation of the web and a variety of ways in which the fibres are compacted and held together to become a



592 Word



Category



NORMAL



fabrics



NORMAL FIBRE



fibers, filaments, yarns fabrics



NORMAL MIXTURE



NOTATION



processes, operations



NOTCHES



garments, made-ups, assemblies



Short description



Description nonwoven fabric which, dependent on the fibres and pro-cesses used, can sometimes be washed for a limited number of times and sometimes indefinitely before showing signs of breakdown. If made in 100% synthetic fibres which have been heat-bonded by sophisticated methods they can compete on equal terms with many woven and knitted fabrics. In particular nonwovens made by ‘lacing’ arranging thousands of fine filaments immediately after ex-trusion and allowing them to set in this intermingled form, gives a strong fabric which can be used for children’s anoraks, protective clothing, even book covers. However, most of the nonwovens have low abrasion resistance compared with other textiles. A trade term for knit A trade term for knit goods, goods, made of natural made of natural coloured coloured cotton and cotton and wool mixed. wool mixed. See under Cotton See under Cotton maturity maturity A knit fabric made of a mixture of cotton and wool in black and white combination. A shorthand system used to express on a graph paper the stitch structure employed in the fabric. Small cuts made in the edges of garment parts which are used as guides during garment



A knit fabric made of a mixture of cotton and wool in black and white combination. A shorthand system used to express on a graph paper the stitch structure employed in the fabric. Small cuts made in the edges of garment parts which are used as guides during garment assembly.



593 Word



Category



NOTTINGHAM LACE



fabrics



NOUÉ



general



NOVEL TEXTILE DESIGN



general



NOVELTY TWEED



fabrics



NOVELTY WEAVE



fabrics



NOVELTY YARN



fibers, filaments, yarns fibers, filaments, yarns



NOVOLOID FIBRE



NOZZLE



NUAGE



Short description Description assembly. See Balance marks. Often used to describe Often used to describe a a flat, coarse lace used flat, coarse lace used for curtains, bedspreads and for curtains, tablecloths. But Nottingham bedspreads and being the home of the tablecloths. machine lace industry, the word is also used to describe any lace made on a Nottingham-type machine. A French term for A French term for knotted. knotted. Motif or pattern never Motif or pattern never before represented pictorially as a before represented pictorially as a textile textile design in any part of design in any part of the world; never has it been applied to or has it been a the world part of any textile. Description indicates that Description indicates that the cloth is tweed- the cloth is tweed-like, but it is not one of the like, but it is not one of conventional tweeds that the conventional are easy to recognize. tweeds that are easy to Usually a cloth with some recognize. decoration or distinguishing feature. Any weave which varies or Any weave which varies or combines the combines the basic weaves, plain, satin and twill. basic weaves, plain, satin and twill. See Fancy yarn. See Fancy yarn.



A manufactured fibre A manufactured fibre containing at least 85 containing at least 85 % by % by weight of a cross weight of a cross -linked -linked novolac. novolac. A novolac is a phenol-formaldehyde condensate of low molecular weight made using an excess of phenol. apparatus, The spinneret or jet The spinneret or jet used in equipage, used in producing producing man-made fibres. tools man-made fibres. fabrics A French word A French word meaning meaning cloud, mist, cloud, mist, shadow, shadow, darkness, etc. darkness, etc. applied to



594 Word



Category



Short description



NUB



fibers, filaments, yarns



A small lump, knot or speck in yarn or fabric.



NUB YARNS



fibers, filaments, yarns



Irregular yarns containing enlarged segments (nubs) made by twisting one end of yarn several times around another within a shorter space.



NUMBER



See Yarn number, Yarn numbering system. Stated in turns per unit length.



NUN’S VEILING



fibers, filaments, yarns fibers, filaments, yarns fabrics



NURSE’S CLOTH



fabrics



NURSERY CLOTH



fabrics



NUMBER OF TURNS



Description fabrics showing these effects in colour decoration. A small lump, knot or speck in yarn or fabric. Sometimes a snarl or tangled mass of fibres. Employed in knickerbocker and other types of novelty yarn. Also called Slub. Irregular yarns containing enlarged segments (nubs) made by twisting one end of yarn several times around another within a shorter space. Sometimes a binder yarn is used to hold the nub in place. See Yarn number, Yarn numbering system. Stated in turns per unit length.



Fine, lightweight plainFine, lightweight plainweave, plain colored, weave, plain colored, worsted or silk fabric, worsted or silk fabric, which which is very soft and is very soft and thin. Now used for dresses, but was at thin. one time used only for religious gowns. Originally dyed only black, brown or gray, but as a dress fabric it is produced in fashion colours. Used for dresses, blouses, nightwear. A warm, soft, attractive fabric that drapes and gathers well. A coloured, woven, plain, A coloured, woven, matt or twill fabric, mainly in plain, matt or twill fabric, mainly in stripes stripes of blue and white, having 27x20 threads per of blue and white, having 27x20 threads cm with 25 tex cotton warp and weft. It is used for per cm with 25 tex cotton warp and weft. ladies’ overalls and nurses’ uniforms. A quilted bleached A quilted bleached cotton cotton muslin. muslin. Washable. Used in



595 Word NUTRIA FUR



NYLON CIRÉ



NYLON FIBRE



Category



Short description



fibers, Comes from a small filaments, South American animal yarns and is similar to Beaver fabrics A waxing treatment applied to lightweight plain-weave nylon produces a very attractive, shiny fabric for thin raincoats, anoraks, protective clothing for cyclists, etc.



fibers, filaments, yarns



A manufactured fibre in which the fibre-forming substance is a long chain synthetic polyamide in which less than 85 % of the amide linkages are attached directly to two aromatic rings.



Description nursery Comes from a small South American animal and is similar to Beaver A waxing treatment applied to lightweight plain-weave nylon produces a very attractive, shiny fabric for thin raincoats, anoraks, protective clothing for cyclists, etc. Made in a limited range of colours, but these include bright ones like red and royal blue which are popular for children’s rainwear and aprons. It is showerproof rather than waterproof. To make it warmer and heavier, it may be lined with quilting, or quilted on to wadding. See also Ciré. A manufactured fibre in which the fibre-forming substance is a long chain synthetic polyamide in which less than 85 % of the amide linkages are attached directly to two aromatic rings. The accepted generic name for the polyamide fibre, which is produced from mineral sources. Al-though resistant to most chemicals, nylon is damaged by strong oxidizing bleaches and concentrated acids; easy to dye and is colorfast.; melts at low temperature but does not catch light. Nylon fibre is non-absorbent, hardwearing and blends well with most other fibres. Two types of fibre - nylon 6.6 and nylon 6 - dominate the polyamide fibre field. These are general purpose



596 Word



Category



Short description



Description fibres that represent the bulk of polyamide fibre production. The commercially important types of polyamide fibre are: Nylon6.6, Nylon 6, Nylon 11, Nylon 6.10, and Nylon3, Nylon 4, Nylon 5, Nylon 7, Nylon 8, Nyon 9, Nylon 12. A number of new types of polyamide fibre are being con-tinuously developed and some show prospects of achieving real importance in due course. Nylon is the accepted better material for ladies’ stockings, because it has a lower initial resistance to stretch than polyester. It is more comfortable and responsive to wear. It is not regarded as being dangerously flammable; melts when ignited and the flame tends to go out when the molten portion drops away. Ordinary nylon filaments are circular in cross-section which does not help handle. Different shapes of filament have been produced notably those with a rounded or triangular cross-section. These fi-bres have been found to have a firmer and more pleasant handle when used in fabrics. The so-called glitter nylon is a variation of this technique whereby a trilobal shape of filament pro-duces a higher degree of internal reflections in the fibres causing them to ‘sparkle’. Special high-tenacity types of nylon have been developed for industrial



597 Word



Category



Short description



NYLON JERSEY



fabrics



Similar to Tricot but heavier.



NYLON-SPANDEX BICOMPONENT FIBRE



fibers, filaments, yarns



NYLONIZING



A conjugate spun filament composed of nylon and spandex segments joined along its entire length. processes, A process by which a operations thin coating of nylon polymer is deposited on a fabric’s surface.



Description uses such as tyre cords, ropes, transmission belts and many other uses where high strength and toughness are required. A development in nylon has been the bi-component fibre in which each fibre is made from two forms of the nylon polymer so that each fibre is composed of approximately half conventional mate-rial and the other half modified polymer joined lengthwise as in diagram shown above. In wet treat-ments of fabric during finishing the modified polymer portion shrinks more than the conventional portion and the resulting stresses cause fibres to crimp and produce bulk and softer structure. ‘Can-trece’ is a fibre of this type. Similar to Tricot but heavier. A very useful lining and mounting fabric. Although in many other cases, polyester fibre has superseded nylon, this is not the case with nylon jersey. It is hardwearing and has a limited amount of ‘give’ which will prevent the outer fabric from losing its shape. Nylon jersey may be antistatic. A conjugate spun filament composed of nylon and spandex segments joined along its entire length. See Conjugate-spun fibre A process by which a thin coating of nylon polymer is deposited on a fabric’s surface. The coating hardens. Nylonizing technique include either



598 Word



Category



Short description



NYTRIL FIBRE



fibers, filaments, yarns



A manufactured fibre containing at least 85 % of long chain polymer of vinylidene dinitrile



Description immersing the fabric in nylon solution or vapourdepositing nylon on it. A manufactured fibre containing at least 85 % of long chain polymer of vinylidene dinitrile, where the vinylidene dinitrile content is not less than every other unit in the polymer chain.



O Word O.D. OAKLEAF BRAID



OATMEAL



OATMEAL CRÊPE



OATS



OBA



Category fabrics fabrics



Short description Description See Olive drab. See Olive drab. A jacquard woven narrow A jacquard woven narrow fabric having a fabric having a conventional conventional oakleaf and oakleaf and acron design acron design contained contained within the border, customarily used as a within the border uniform cap-band. fabrics An old fashioned term An old fashioned term which which used to describe used to describe any fabric, any fabric, usually wool usually wool, that has a coloured, pebbled effect resembling oatmeal. fabrics A weave that creates a A weave that creates a rough rough irregular surface irregular surface effect by a effect by a random random arrangement of arrangement of binding binding points. It can be points. produced on a plain base or a satin base, or by reversing small motifs, or superimposing weaves. The effect is intended to simulate the surface appearance of a crêpe produced in plain weave using highly twisted ‘S’ and ‘Z’ twist yarns. fibers, An early maturing variety An early maturing variety of filaments, of American cotton with American cotton with staple yarns staple approximately approximately 1.91 to 2.54 1.91 to 2.54 cm long. cm long. apparatus, See Optical brightening See Optical brightening



599 Word



OBJECTS



OCELOT



OE YARN



OFF-CLIP OFF-GRAIN



OFF-PRESSING



OFF-REGISTER



OFF-SHADE



Category equipage, tools fabrics



Short description agent.



Description agent.



Lace having ornamental Lace having ornamental devices (such as flowers) devices (such as appearing regularly in various flowers) appearing parts of a piece of lace. regularly in various parts of a piece of lace. fibers, A very hardwearing, A very hardwearing, fairly filaments, fairly coarse textured coarse textured thin fur. Like yarns thin fur. Leopard, it has spots, but they are more oval in shape. fibers, An abbreviation for An abbreviation for open-end filaments, open-end spun yarn. spun yarn. This term is yarns mainly restricted to rotorspun yarns. See Rotor spinning. defects See Scalloped selvage See Scalloped selvage A general term used to defects A general term used to describe fabrics in which describe fabrics in which the warp and weft, although the warp and weft, straight, are not at right although straight, are not angles to each other. This at right angles to each term is applied to skewed or other. drawn pieces when lack of information as to the cause, prevents the use of the more precise term processes, The final pressing The final pressing operations operations operations on a garment on a garment after assembly. after assembly. Also called Pressing off. defects Also called Out-of-fit, Also called Out-of-fit, Out-of Out-of register. Printing register. Printing defect. A defect. jumbled motif or mottled colour effect which comes from improper alignment of the printing machine rollers. The effect will show blank areas which should have been printed, but because of poor settings leave the areas white or some-what discoloured. defects An expression referring An expression referring to the to the fact that the colour fact that the colour of the of the dyed textile dyed textile material does not material does not match match the standard colour or the standard colour or referred sample.



600 Word OFF-SQUARE



OFFSET TWILL WEAVE OI OIL REPELLENCY



OIL SPOT OIL STAINS



OIL-COMBING



OILCLOTH



OILED SILK



OILED VISCOSE



Category



Short description Description referred sample. 1. A fabric with a nominal fabrics A fabric with a nominal square count (same number square count (same number of picks as ends of picks as ends per inch) but not actually square. per inch) but not actually 2. The difference between square. the percentage of warp crimp and the percentage of the weft crimp. fabrics Same as Braided twill Same as Braided twill weave. weave. general See Oxygen index. See Oxygen index. fibers, The characteristic of a The characteristic of a fibre, filaments, fibre, yarn or fabric yarn or fabric whereby it yarns, whereby it resists resists wetting by oily liquids. fabrics wetting by oily liquids. defects See Blotch. See Blotch. defects Fabric defect. Fabric defect. Stains, spots, and marks that are detrimental to cloth. They are acquired in several ways. Many oil spots are the result of poor material handling. processes, The adding of a small The adding of a small operations quantity of oil emulsion quantity of oil emulsion in the in the process of process of combing worsted combing worsted tops. tops. fabrics One of the early One of the early waterproof waterproof fabrics. fabrics. Usually cotton, treated with linseed oil varnish to give it a shiny effect. Mainly used as table and shelf covering, and for bags and raincoats. The surface wear off easily and it is inclined to tear. Has been almost completely superseded by the modern laminates and other coated fabrics A very old waterproof fabric fabrics A very old waterproof fabric which was used which was used for rainwear and as waterproof covers for for rainwear and as dressing wounds. Produced waterproof covers for in a manner similar to that dressing wounds. used for Oil cloth. fabrics Viscose fabrics made Viscose fabrics made



601 Word



Category



OILED WOOL



fabrics



OILSKIN



fabrics



OLEFIN FIBRE



fibers, filaments, yarns general



OLEOPHILIC OLEOPHOBIC OLIGOMER



Short description Description impervious to water. impervious to water. Unscoured or undyed Unscoured or undyed knitting wool or wool dyed before knitting wool or wool spinning and containing dyed before spinning and containing added oil added oil not subsequently removed. not subsequently removed. Fabric of practically any Fabric of practically any natural or synthetic fibre natural or synthetic fibre that that has been treated has been treated with linseed with linseed oil varnish. oil varnish. Used for protective clothing. See also OiIcloth and Oiled silk. See Polyolefin. See Polyolefin.



Tendency to absorb and retain only oily materials. general Tendency to repel only oily materials. apparatus, A simple polymer equipage, containing a small tools number of repeating units.



OLIVE DRAB



fabrics



Woollen cloth dyed in a greenish yellow colour with low saturation and brilliance.



OMBRÉ



fabrics



Name derived from the French word for ‘shaded’.



OMBRÉ PRINT



fabrics



Prints produced by a



Tendency to absorb and retain only oily materials. Tendency to repel only oily materials. A simple polymer containing a small number of repeating units. The oligomer most frequently encountered in the textile industry is the cyclic trimer of the polymer used for polyester fibre. This material can form deposits during the processing and dyeing of yarns and fabrics. Woollen cloth dyed in a greenish yellow colour with low saturation and brilliance. Used mainly for U.S. Army uniforms. Name derived from the French word for ‘shaded’. Fabric which has a shaded or graduated colour effect, which may be obtained either by weaving or dyeing. Usually it ranges from light to dark shades of one colour, giving a triped effect or sometimes an attractive allover shading. Prints produced by a method



602 Word



Category



Short description method called rainbowing.



ON THE DOUBLE processes, operations ON-CALL general COTTON



See Double, on the



ONDÉ



fabrics



ONDINE



fabrics



ONDULÉ



fabrics



ONE-BY-ONE PURL FABRIC ONE-FACE FABRIC



fabrics fabrics



Description called rainbowing. It is a variant of block printing in which sieve used to supply the colour paste is prepared by placing pools of colour across it. These pools are then spread lengthwise with a roller to produce a rainbow effect. Blocks are then used to apply this colour to fabric. Also called ‘Irised prints’. See Double, on the



Raw-cotton purchased Raw-cotton purchased under a procedure whereby the under a procedure price relative to the ‘futures’ whereby the price price is agreed between relative to the ‘futures’ buyer and seller, but the price is agreed between buyer and seller, but the actual futures price is left to actual futures price is left be fixed within a stipulated period. The buyer has the to be fixed within a right to ‘call’, i.e. demand stipulated period fixation of the futures price, at any time within the stipulated time. A French word meaning A French word meaning waved, used in relation to waved, used in relation textile fabrics to describe a to textile fabrics to wave effect produced by describe a wave effect produced by calendering calendering or weaving. See Ondulé or weaving A thick, cord Bengaline A thick, cord Bengaline in in which every cord is which every cord is crinkled. crinkled. Similar in appearance to Similar in appearance to ‘Ombré’ and also of French ‘Ombré’ and also of derivation, but the cloth is French derivation, but woven in wavy stripes, the cloth is woven in achieved by groups of warp wavy stripes threads being forced from side to side. Used for curtains, furnishing fabrics of all fibres See under Purl fabric. See under Purl fabric. A cloth of which only one A cloth of which only one side is suitable for the side is suitable for the face or



603 Word



Category



ONE-SIDED TERRY



fabrics



ONE-WAY FABRIC



fabrics



Short description face or right side.



Description right side. Knots, long floats and extra yarn stitching on the back make it unsuitable for use as the face of the cloth A terry cloth woven with A terry cloth woven with loop loop pile on one side pile on one side only. only. Fabrics wherein a fibrous Fabrics wherein a fibrous surface, be it nap surface, be it nap or pile, is directional, there is a distinct or pile, is directional, difference in colour effect there is a distinct according to the direction in difference in colour effect according to the which light impinges on the surface fibres. It is usually direction in which light impossible in practice to impinges on the surface produce a large quantity of fibres. directional nap or pile fabric with all the fibres at exactly the same angle of inclination. The finishing processes of pile fabrics, cropping and brushing impart a direction to the pile which cannot be kept uniform over a large area. In clothing the areas of fabric are not large enough to produce patchy areas but the movement of a garment causes colour changes to be constantly visible. It is important therefore that the directions of fibres in all garment parts are the same. Dressmakers usually prefer the pile of a fabric to run upwards as this gives a richer colour effect, but obviously directional nap fabrics are made with the nap running downwards. The colour changes due to differing light reflection referred to above make colour matching of pile fabrics with each other and with conventional fabrics very difficult and at times it appears that a perfect match is impossible and that a



604 Word



ONION CLOTH



ONIUM DYE



OOZE



OP ART OPEN BOIL



OPEN DENT



Category



Short description



Description compromise is all that can be achieved. However, great care is taken in matching nap or pile fabrics with plain textured materials, and with each other. fabrics A strong bagging A strong bagging material material with a large with a large mesh, actually a mesh, actually a netting, netting, often a leno. Used often a leno. mainly for bags to hold onions and the same time display them for easy, fast selling. ³ Small range of dyes, Small range of dyes, mostly mostly used on cotton. used on cotton. A cationic dye that is solubilized by available ammonium, sulphonium, phosphonium or oxonium substituent which splits off during fixation to leave an insoluble colorant in the fibre. This temporarily solubilized dye (watersoluble), being cationic, must not be mixed with anionic dyes, otherwise they will precipitate each other. In the presence of heat and alkali the solubilizing groups split up to give a very fast dye on the fibre. Onium dyes are: · suitable for cotton and linen fibres. See also Alcian and Phthalogen under Ingrain dye. fibers, Loose fibres, which Loose fibres, which project filaments, project from the surface from the surface of yarn. yarns of yarn. fabrics See Optical art. See Optical art. processes, Scouring of cellulosic Scouring of cellulosic textiles with alkaline liquors in open operations textiles with alkaline liquors in open vessels vessels at or near the boiling points. at or near the boiling points. defects Fabric defect Fabric defect, characterised by an open streak of variable length parallel with the warp.



605 Word OPEN LAP



Category processes, operations



Short description Description In warp knitting, a lapping In warp knitting, a movement in which the lapping movement in which the underlap is underlap is non-existent or is non-existent or is made made in the same direction as the preceding overlap. in the same direction as This results in a thread the preceding overlap. entering and leaving a loop at opposite sides without crossing over itself OPEN LOOP fabrics In warp knitting a loop In warp knitting a loop open at the base, i.e. a lapping open at the base, i.e. a movement in which the lapping movement in which the underlap is underlap is non-existent or is non-existent or is made made in the same direction as the preceding overlap. in the same direction as This results in a thread the preceding overlap. entering and leaving a loop at opposite sides without crossing over itself. OPEN PLACE defects See Crack mark. See Crack mark. OPEN REED defects Fabric defect. Resulting Fabric defect. Resulting from from a bent reed wire a bent reed wire causing the causing the warp ends to warp ends to be held apart be held apart exposing exposing the weft yarn. Will be conspicuous on fabrics the weft yarn that use different colour yarns on warp and shuttle. OPEN SHEDDING fabrics A method of forming a A method of forming a shed shed I in which, between the insertion of one weft pick and the next, the only warp threads moved are those that are required to change position from the upper to the lower line of the shed, or vice versa OPEN SOAPER apparatus, A machine consisting of A machine consisting of a number of compartments, equipage, a number of each having rollers and/or tools compartments, each nips, which is used for having rollers and/or nips, which is used for continuous wet treatment of textiles in open width. By continuous wet suitable arrangement of treatment of textiles in liquids in the series of open width. compartments, a sequence of operations, e.g. fixing, rinsing, soaping and rinsing, can be carried out.



606 Word OPEN WIDTH WASHER



OPEN-END SPINNING



Category apparatus, equipage, tools



Short description A machine for washing fabrics in open width continuously or in batch form. processes, Also called Break operations spinning. The formation of yarn by separating the single fibres, which are then rotated and joined to the ‘open-end’ of the twisted yarn, which also rotates. Since there is a ‘break’ in the system any twist inserted is true twist.



Description A machine for washing fabrics in open width continuously or in batch form. Also called Break spinning. The formation of yarn by separating the single fibres, which are then rotated and joined to the ‘open-end’ of the twisted yarn, which also rotates. Since there is a ‘break’ in the system any twist inserted is true twist. The ring spinning method spins most of the staple fibre yarns produced today. However, this has limited speeds of production and has a limited adaptability to automation. It is for this reason that the producers have looked for completely new methods of spinning. For some years now there has been growing interest in ‘open-end’ spinning, where, since the twist is not inserted in the yarn by the rotation of the yarn package, the operation can run at higher speeds and produce packages of any desired size and shape. When spinning on this system an open end is created in the flow of fibres. Since the yarn being produced has one end free any twist inserted is true rather than false. The essential operation depends on the formation of yarn by separating the single fibres, that are then rotated and joined to the ‘open end’ of the twisted yarn, which also rotates. This system eliminates the slowest process in cotton spinning



607 Word



Category



Short description



Description and production is much more; even five or more times rapid than in orthodox ring spin-ning. Open-end spinning machines make yarns which compare well with conventionally spun combed cotton yarns. These yarns have some improved properties and therefore less time is lost in rewind-ing, correcting faults and knotting broken ends together. The packages produced are much bigger and since sliver can be converted directly to a large package of yarn, many intermediate stages, such as roving, are cut out, and the labour costs involved in the complete operation are greatly reduced. There are several different methods of open-end spinning available. The way in which the fibres are assembled onto the forming yarn varies and so does the means by which the twist is inserted. How-ever, here the basic principles of a few methods are only covered, although it must be appreciated that other promising ways are being developed, all based on the concept of having a break in the system. In the rotor method the roving stage is omitted and draw-frame sliver is presented to a small rotating tooth-covered roller. This reduces the sliver to a stream of almost individual fibres, which are injected into a small chamber rotating at high speed. The fibres are fed into the chamber and guided to its periphery. A



608 Word



Category



OPEN-FACE FABRIC



fabrics



OPEN-WIDTH PROCESSING



processes, operations



OPENING



processes, operations



Short description



Description ribbon of fibres is formed at the periphery and held by centrifugal force. The fibres are picked off the chamber surface by a length of yarn, scanning the periphery and as this ribbon is extracted, and as it twists around itself at the same time, twist is inserted by the rota-tion of the drum the end is continually wound off, so forming a continuous yarn. In other methods, perforated drums or electrostatic forces are used in place of the rotor to assemble the fibres. In the air-vortex method the fibres are sucked into a stationary tube and travel in a helical path. They then join the yarn end, which rotates in the tube and inserts the twist. The point of con-tact between the fibre path and the yarn path is continuously moving up and down the tube and gives a mixing or doubling effect. The yarn is continuously pulled out of the tube. A face or shell fabric A face or shell fabric constructed with specifically constructed with specifically designed designed open areas to show the substrate when joined to open areas another material The treatment of fabric The treatment of fabric at its full width in the unfolded at its full width in the state in contrast to rope-form unfolded state in processing. The fabric may contrast to rope-form be carried on rollers through processing. the processing media or be held on a roller, as in beam dyeing. The process of The process of separating separating fibres from fibres from each other in the each other in the preparatory stages of preparatory stages of spinning. spinning.



609 Word OPENNESS



OPTICAL ART



OPTICAL BRIGHTENING AGENT OPTICAL DYE



Category garments, made-ups, assemblies fabrics



Short description The provision for leg stance in the angle of the leg seams. Also called Op art.



Description The provision for leg stance in the angle of the leg seams. Also called Op art. Fabrics on which simple designs are drawn: squares, circles, spirals, cubes, moiré patterns that offer multiple interpretations and a sense of movement. Layers of translucent fabric can approximate this phenomenon. See Fluorescent whitening agent.



apparatus, See Fluorescent equipage, whitening agent. tools apparatus, See Fluorescent dye See Fluorescent dye equipage, tools OPTIMUM TWIST fibers, Spun yarns that have the Spun yarns that have the amount of twist that gives the filaments, amount of twist that maximum tensile strength or yarns gives the maximum the maximum bulk at strength tensile strength levels suitable for weaving or knitting. ORDINARY fabrics See under Honeycomb. See under Honeycomb. HONEYCOMB ORDINARY LAY accessories A laid rope (see Lay - 2) A laid rope (see Lay - 2) in in which the direction of which the direction of twist in the roping yarn and the twist in the roping yarn and the finished rope are finished rope are the same and in which the direction of the same lay of the strand is in the opposite direction. ORDINARY fabrics See Common twill See Common twill TWILL ORDINARY fibers, Same as ‘Z’ twist. Same as ‘Z’ twist. See also TWIST filaments, Direction of twist yarns ORGANDIE fabrics The sheerest cotton The sheerest cotton fabric fabric made of fine 100 made of fine 100 % cotton % cotton yarn. yarn. Open translucent fabric with a stiff han-dle, woven in plain weave and given a special acid finishing treatment which creates the crisp translucent effect by partially ‘gelatinising’ the



610 Word



Category



Short description



ORGANZA



fabrics



Similar in appearance to Organdie. Lightweight, plain weave, sheer fabric made originally from fine silk yarns but now also made in man-made synthetic fibre yarns.



ORGANZINE YARN



fibers, filaments, yarns



Two or more raw silk yarns twisted in the opposite direction from the single yarn of which it is made.



ORIENTAL CARPETS



garments, A group of handmade made-ups, carpets produced in the assemblies Orient, especially in Asia, notably, Persia (Iran), Asiatic Turkey, Bokhara, Afghanistan and China.



Description surface of the fabric. The finish is permanent. Fabric creases very easily and is mainly used for decoration and as an interfacing fabric in lightweight garments. It is also used for dresses, blouses and sometimes for hats. Very springy and inclined to bubble and lose its shape under pressure. The organdie-effect can be obtained more effectively (but not cheaply) by the use of monofilament synthetic yarns. Similar in appearance to Organdie. Lightweight, plain weave, sheer fabric made originally from fine silk yarns but now also made in manmade synthetic fibre yarns. It has a crisp handle and drapes well. Made in plain colours and in printed styles, for dress use. Used for evening wear and trimming and may also be used as interfacing in fine fabrics. Two or more raw silk yarns twisted in the opposite direction from the single yarn of which it is made. Turns per inch in the singles and ply usually within the limits of 10 to 20 turns; generally used as warp. A group of handmade carpets produced in the Orient, especially in Asia, notably, Persia (Iran), Asiatic Turkey, Bokhara, Afghanistan and China. They are woven similar to tapestry or in a pile weave. The number of knots per square inch determines their fineness. Generally made of



611 Word



Category



ORIENTATION



processes, operations



ORIFICE



apparatus, equipage, tools



ORIGINAL TWIST



fibers, filaments, yarns



ORLON



fibers, filaments, yarns



ORTHOPAEDIC AND SURGICAL FELT OSNABURG



fabrics



OSSEIN FILAMENTS



fabrics



fibers, filaments, yarns



Short description



Description wool, some of the finest Persians have silk pile. A combing or attenuating A combing or attenuating action on fibre action on fibre assemblies assemblies causing the fibres to lie substantially parallel to the axis of the web or strand. A tiny, single hole in a A tiny, single hole in a spinneret. spinneret. It is through these fine holes that the spinning solution is formed. The twist in a single or The twist in a single or plied plied yarn component of yarn component of a plied or a plied or cabled yarn cabled yarn as the component was before incorporation into the more complex structure. Trade name for one of Trade name for one of the the first acrylic fibres. first acrylic fibres. Melts at high heat, but does not catch light. Noted for soft hand, absorbency, and warmth without weight, chemical and sunlight resistance. It blends very well with wool and other fibres, and is used extensively in knitwear and dress fabrics. A white soft low density, A white soft low density, highly resilient felt. highly resilient felt. A traditional coarse cotton A traditional coarse cotton fabric, woven with fabric, woven with uneven uneven yarns and often yarns and often incorporating cotton waste. Is plain weave, incorporating cotton resembles crash in waste. appearance and is the basic fabric from which Cretonne may be made. An experimental synthetic An experimental synthetic fibre obtained fibre obtained from ossein, the chief organic basis of from ossein, the chief organic basis of bone bone tissue which remains as tissue which remains as residue after removal of the residue after removal of material that matters. The the material that matters. ossein is related to gelatine. A major weakness of the



612 Word



Category



OTTOMAN



fabrics



OUT-OF-FIT OUT-OFREGISTER OUTING FLANNEL



defects defects



OUTLINE EMBROIDERY OUTSIDE SEAM



OUTSIDE-LEG LENGTH OVEDRPLAID



OVEN



fabrics



Short description



Description fibre was its brittleness Heavy fabric with broad, Heavy fabric with broad, flat flat crosswise ribs of crosswise ribs of even size, even size, but some but some have small ribs. have small ribs. Ottoman cords have alternating wide and narrow ribs. Basic yarn used may be silk or wool, but is now more likely to be acetate, viscose, triacetate or cotton. Weft cords are usually cotton yarn covered by the warp yarns. Soft unyielding fabric. Used for plain dresses, coats and curtains. Creases easily across the width of the fabric See Off-register See Off-register See Off-register. See Off-register. a soft, lightweight, plain or twill weave fabric usually napped on both sides.



processes, Needlework in which the operations design is outlined in colour but not filled in. general A seam formed in which the completed seam allowance is located on the exterior of the object, usually on the face side of the fabric.



garments, Garment-related term. made-ups, assemblies fabrics A plaid pattern with one plaid woven over another of the same or different size. apparatus, A heat chamber in which equipage, textile fabrics or tools garments are cured or



a soft, lightweight, plain or twill weave fabric usually napped on both sides. Plain or striped. Used often for blazers, cricket trousers, and sleeping garments, etc. Needlework in which the design is outlined in colour but not filled in. A seam formed in which the completed seam allowance is located on the exterior of the object, usually on the face side of the fabric. An example of an outside seam is the ‘flat-felled seam’. (Com-pare in Inside seam.) Garment-related term. See under Garment sizing system. A plaid pattern with one plaid woven over another of the same or different size. Also, a plaid design on checked ground A heat chamber in which textile fabrics or garments are cured or baked. There



613 Word



Category



Short description baked.



OVEN-DRY WEIGHT



general



The weight of a textile material determined after drying



OVER WAXING OVER-END WITHDRAWAL



processes, The operation of waxing operations a yarn after sizing. processes, The unwinding of yarn operations from a package



OVER-RAISED



defects



Fabric defect.



OVERALL



garments, made-ups, assemblies



Workwear usually designed to be worn over every day clothes



OVERALL CLEANING



processes, operations



In upholstered furniture, the application of an appropriate cleaning agent to the entire fabric covering



OVERCAST STITCH



general



OVERCHAIN OVERCHECK



general fabrics



OVERCOATING



fabrics



OVERCUT



fibers,



Description are two types of curing ovens (a) batch curing oven and (b) continuous conveyor oven The weight of a textile material determined after drying by definite prescribed methods, which in-clude oven drying The operation of waxing a yarn after sizing. The unwinding of yarn from a package generally along the axis of the package. Fabric defect. Excessive surface nap that may or may not be accompanied by damage to the ground structure. It is usually caused by the incorrect setting of the raising machine or irregular feed of the fabric. Workwear usually designed to be worn over every day clothes to give protection to the body and part of the legs of the wearer. In upholstered furniture, the application of an appropriate cleaning agent to the entire fabric covering, accomplished while the upholstery fabric remains attached to the furniture unit. A slating stitch used around cut edges or open parts to prevent ravelling



A slating stitch used around cut edges or open parts to prevent ravelling See Overlock. See Overlock. A pattern in which one A pattern in which one check check is superimposed is superimposed upon upon another of different another of different size or size or colour. colour. Any fabric used for Any fabric used for overcoats. overcoats. Generally medium or heavy woollen or worsted or union fabric. A synthetic staple fibre A synthetic staple fibre



614 Word



Category filaments, yarns



OVEREDGE



general



OVEREDGING



processes, operations



OVERFEED FABRIC



fabrics



OVERHAND



processes, operations



OVERLAP



processes, operations



Short description Description having a longer than having a longer than normal normal length; the length length; the length is generally is generally a multiple of a multiple of 2,3 or more 2,3 or more times the times the normal length. An normal length. overcut occurs when the filaments are not cut to the desired length during the process of manufacturing the staple. There are many types of There are many types of overedge stitches, with overedge stitches, with varying numbers of needle varying numbers of needle threads, looper threads, looper threads and covering threads. All are threads and covering basically forms of chain threads. stitch, in which threads pass round the edge of a fabric as well as through it. The fabric edge is trimmed in the sewing machine and the stitch is then formed over the freshly cut edge. The use of an overedge The use of an overedge stitch either by hand or stitch either by hand or machine to bind an edge machine to bind an edge so so as to avoid fraying. as to avoid fraying. Can also be used as a decoration. Also described as Overlocking A warp-knitted fabric in A warp-knitted fabric in which, generally, one which, generally, one warp is fed faster than would be warp is fed faster than required to form normally would be required to shaped loops. The excess form normally shaped yarn results in large loops loops. and underlaps which appear as surface pile. The fabric may subsequently be brushed and raised of sueded A way of examining textile A way of examining materials by viewing textile materials by horizontally at eye-level. viewing horizontally at eye-level. In warp-knitting, lateral In warp-knitting, lateral movement of the guide movement of the guide bars bars on the beard or on the beard or hook side of hook side of the needles. the needles. This movement



615 Word



Category



Short description



OVERLAPS



defects



Bands of yarn found at the ends of a yarn cone or cheese caused by faulty winding.



OVERLENGTH STAPLE FIBRES



fibers, filaments, yarns



Man-made staple fibres that are at least 10 % longer than the nominal or average cut length.



OVERLOCK



general



Stitches used to bind edges of fabric to prevent them fraying.



OVERLOCK SEAM



general



A seam in which two or more edges of fabric are joined together, oversewn and edgetrimmed in one operation



OVERLOCKING



processes, See Overedging. operations OVERNIT fabrics See Double Piqué OVERPICK LOOM apparatus, A loom on which the equipage, picking stick is above the tools level of the shuttle box. OVERPRINT processes, A print applied on top of operations a coloured, piece dyed fabric. OVERSHOT fabrics See Float OVERSPRAYING processes, The spraying of staple operations fibres with a lubricant



Description is normally restricted to one needle space. Bands of yarn found at the ends of a yarn cone or cheese caused by faulty winding. They are associated with Winding pattern and Ribboning Man-made staple fibres that are at least 10 % longer than the nominal or average cut length. (Compare to Multiple length staple fibres.) Stitches used to bind edges of fabric to prevent them fraying. In knitted garments such stitches are also used to form seams between two or more fabrics. Invariably overlock describes the looped stitch construction formed from two or more threads, although overedge stitches can be achieved with a single chaining thread and with zigzagged lockstitch. Also called Overchain. See also Overedge. A seam in which two or more edges of fabric are joined together, oversewn and edge-trimmed in one operation, with overedge stitches having two or more threads. See Overedging. See Double Piqué A loom on which the picking stick is above the level of the shuttle box. A print applied on top of a coloured, piece dyed fabric. Also called Ad-hock. See Float The spraying of staple fibres with a lubricant during



616 Word



Category



OVERSPUN



defects



OVERWIDTH



defects



Fabric defect.



OXFORD CHAMBRAY



fabrics



OXFORD CLOTH



fabrics



An Oxford woven with coloured yarn-dyed warp and white filling A plain-weave shirting of good quality yarns that has two warp ends weaving as one.



OXFORD GREY



fibers, filaments, yarns



A grey colour effect produced by blending white and black fibres.



OXFORD SHIRTING



fabrics



A cotton or blended fabric in a basket weave originally made in Oxford



OXIDATION



Short description during blending. A defective yarn that is very irregular because it has been drawn, to too high a count for its quality



processes, A process in which: (a) a operations chemical element loses electrons; (b) oxygen is



Description blending. A defective yarn that is very irregular because it has been drawn, to too high a count for its quality, with resulting overtwist in the thin places and absence of twist in the thick places. Fabric defect. Fabric that has not been finished to the proper width. Extra washing and proper shrinking may bring cloth to proper width, or re-stentering may have to be resorted to. An Oxford woven with coloured yarn-dyed warp and white filling A plain-weave shirting of good quality yarns that has two warp ends weaving as one. Soft, somewhat porous cotton shirting fabric given a silk-like lustre finish. Fancy weave effects can be incorporated. Made in plain white or colours, and sometimes also in coloured yarns stripes. Usually inexpensive fabric, but more expensive if mercerised cotton is used. Mainly used for shirts, light suits, dresses. A grey colour effect produced by blending white and black fibres. The percentage of black is usually 80-95 %, so that the cloth produced is dark grey. A cotton or blended fabric in a basket weave originally made in Oxford, and used for shirts, blouses, and sportswear. A process in which: (a) a chemical element loses electrons; (b) oxygen is



617 Word



Category



OXIDATION DYES



apparatus, equipage, tools



OXIDISED OIL STAINING



processes, operations



OXYCELLULOSE



fibers, filaments, yarns



OXYGEN INDEX (OI)



general



OZONE FADING



processes, operations



Short description added to any chemical formula. In principle, a small molecular weight intermediate is treated under acid oxidation conditions to form a much larger, coloured molecule.



Description added to any chemical formula. In principle, a small molecular weight intermediate is treated under acid oxidation conditions to form a much larger, coloured molecule. These dyes are mostly used as hair and fur dyeing. Except aniline black, the few other oxidation colours formerly employed in textile printing, fell out of general use on fastness grounds. Oxidation dyes are: · suitable for cotton, linen, viscose rayon, and cuprammonium rayon fibres. Staining of textiles caused by Staining of textiles caused by oil acquired or oil acquired or applied during processing. The presence of applied during oxidised oil may cause processing. discoloration and affect the dyeing property of the material. In the manufacture of woollen and worsted yarns, this discoloration is sometimes referred as Gliding, Yellowing, or Bronzing. Cellulose changed Cellulose changed chemically by the action chemically by the action of of oxidising agents. oxidising agents. This produces weak or tender cotton. Also called Limiting Also called Limiting oxygen oxygen index. index. The minimum concentration of oxygen in a mixture of oxygen and nitrogen (expressed as a percentage) that will just support flaming combustion of a material under specified test conditions. An irreversible change in An irreversible change in hue hue that when dyed or that when dyed or printed printed textiles are textiles are exposed to exposed to ozone. ozone. Ozone fading is



618 Word



Category



Short description



Description particularly prevalent under severe conditions of atmospheric pollution. Different from gas fading.



P Word P.A. COTTON



Category fibers, filaments, yarns



Short description Partially acetylated cotton



P/C



fabrics



Denotes a fabric made from a blend of polyester and cotton fibres.



PACKAGE



fibers, filaments, yarns



A length of yarn wound on a carrier or bobbin.



PACKAGE BUILD



PACKAGE DYEING



fibers, The manner in which filaments, the yarn coils are yarns arranged on a package. processes, A method of dyeing operations yarn. The yarn is wound uniformly on perforated cones or cheeses.



Description Partially acetylated cotton. This type of cotton fibres have good resistance to deterioration from mildew, rot and heat, but they are inferior to fully acetylated cotton in flat and flex abrasion and in tensile strength. Denotes a fabric made from a blend of polyester and cotton fibres. Also called PC A length of yarn wound on a carrier or bobbin. See also Yarn package. The manner in which the yarn coils are arranged on a package. A method of dyeing yarn. The yarn is wound uniformly on perforated cones or cheeses. These packages are then placed in a special dyeing machine in which the liquor is circulated through the yarn alternately from the outside of the package to the centre and then from the



619 Word



Category



PACKING DEFECTS IN GARMENT PAD



defects



PAD-DYEING



PAD-STEAM CONTIUOUS DYEING



PADDER



PADDING



PADDING STITCH



Short description



Description centre to the outside of the package. See under Garment See under Garment defects, classified. defects, classified. Abbreviated form for 1. A stiffing, wadding, Padding soft mass, cushion, etc. 2. Abbreviated form for Padding



garments, made-ups, assemblie s, processes, operations processes, Applying a dye liquor Applying a dye liquor operations to textiles to textiles, either by passing the material through a bath and then squeezing out the excess with heavy rollers or by passing it between squeeze rollers, the bottom one of which carries the liquor paste. processes, A speedy pad-dyeing A speedy pad-dyeing operations process process, which operates at high temperatures and is used mainly to apply vat dyes in approximately onetenth the time required for batch methods like jig dyeing and pad dyeing. apparatus, A set of squeeze A set of squeeze equipage, rollers used to rollers used to tools impregnate any impregnate any fabric fabric with a liquid with a liquid by continuous passage of the fabric through the liquid and then between the rollers. processes, Cloth impregnation Cloth impregnation process executed operations process executed through a padding through a padding mangle mangle general A herringbone or A herringbone or zigzag basting stitch zigzag basting stitch



620 Word



PADDING YARN PADDLE DYEING



Category



Short description



fabrics See Wadding yarn processes, A method of dyeing operations clothing, hosiery and other small pieces while packaged loosely in mesh bags



PADDOCK



fabrics



Term describes a worsted fabric which resembles gabardine in weight and moisture repellence.



PAINTED CLOTH



fabrics



A canvas with various mottoes painted in oil



PAINTED FABRIC



fabrics



PAISLEY



fabrics



Any fabric with handpainted designs. Originally only from Scotland, ‘paisley’ meant a shawl made in fine soft woollen yarn, with a woven design derived from Indian patterns.



PAJAMA CHECKS



fabrics



Fabric with two, three or more warp



Description that is helpful in the shaping of a garment. See Wadding yarn A method of dyeing clothing, hosiery and other small pieces while packaged loosely in mesh bags. The dyeing machine consists of an open tank and revolving paddles which circulate the bags in the dyeing bath Term describes a worsted fabric which resembles gabardine in weight and moisture repellence. Commonly seen at race courses. A canvas with various mottoes painted in oil. Used for wall hangings. Any fabric with handpainted designs. Originally only from Scotland, ‘paisley’ meant a shawl made in fine soft woollen yarn, with a woven design derived from Indian patterns. Fine fabric, always with scroll designs. The true Paisely cloth is very expensive. Now, anything of any fibre or mixture printed with the traditional elaborate multicoloured scrolls is described as paisley design. Fabric with two, three or more warp and



621 Word



Category



PAJAMA CLOTH



fabrics



PAJAMAS



garments, made-ups, assemblie s



PAK-NIT



processes, operations



PALAMPORES



fabrics



PALGHAT MAT



garments, made-ups, assemblie s



PALM FIBRE



fibers, filaments, yarns



Short description Description and weft threads weft threads weaving weaving as one in as one in plain and plain and fancy fancy basket weaves. basket weaves Similar to a checked dimity. Used in union suits, shorts, hospital gowns and summer dresses. A hard-wearing cotton A hard-wearing cotton (once silk) (once silk) fabric with a close warp and fabric with a close woven in stripes of warp and woven in varying widths and stripes of varying widths and colours. colours. The fabric is often brushed on the right side. See Pajama A two piece A two piece ensemble ensemble consisting consisting of a top of a top and a and a bottom bottom generally used for, but not limited to, nightwear. Mechanical dry Mechanical dry system of system of compressive compressive shrinkage shrinkage used to make tubular knit goods dimensionally stable; calenders are eliminated. Indian hand-painted Indian hand-painted cotton fabric with cotton fabric with fairly large size fairly large size designs; often designs patterned with ‘Tree of life’ motifs. Used for bedcovers, hangings and framed A fine sleeping mat A fine sleeping mat made in India from made in India from the leaves of the the leaves of the sedge ‘Cyperus sedge ‘Cyperus laevigatus’. laevigatus’. A general term A general term sometimes applied sometimes applied to to any fibres any fibres obtained obtained from the from the plants or



622 Word



PALMERING



PAN FIBRES



PANAMA



PANAMA CANVAS



Category



Short description Description plants or trees of the trees of the palm palm family, e.g. family, e.g. ‘Palma’, ‘Palma’, ‘Palmetto’, ‘Palmetto’, ‘Palmyra’, ‘Palmyra’, ‘Piassaca’, etc ‘Piassaca’, etc processes, A finishing treatment A finishing treatment operations to give mellowness to give mellowness to to the hand of the the hand of the fabrics. fabrics. The equipment consists of a large, steam-heated cylinder covered with an endless papermaker’s felt apron. The material is led between two continuous aprons and the heat, aided by the smoothness of the aprons, will give the fabrics a smooth, calendered effect which is more appealing than an ordinary calender finish. fibers, See Polyacrylonitrile See Polyacrylonitrile filaments, fibres. fibres. yarns fabrics Very lightweight Very lightweight fabric used for men’s fabric used for men’s summer and tropical summer and tropical wear and women’s wear and women’s dresses. The yarns dresses. used are cotton and worsted in the traditional Panama cloth, although other fibres such as polyester and viscose are sometimes used. The cloth has a recognisable squareweave effect, and is usually in plain colours. A crisp fabric. fabrics A canvas of matt A canvas of matt



623 Word



PANAMA HAT



Category



Short description weave that is given a beetled finish and used for embroidery purposes. garments, Men’s and women’s made-ups, straw hat made from assemblie fine, hand-plaited, creamy coloured s toquilla straw.



PANAMA WEAVE



fabrics



A weave which consists of several warp and weft threads crossing each other at once



PANELS



fabrics



PANNÉ



fabrics



PANNÉ SATIN



fabrics



PANNÉ VELVET



fabrics



Knitted hosiery swatches or panels used for testing purposes. Flattened or pressed flat as Panné velvet. Silk or synthetic satin with an unusually high lustre because of a special finish Silk or synthetic velvet with a short pile on the right side that is pressed flat and laid in one direction during manufacture.



Description weave that is given a beetled finish and used for embroidery purposes. Men’s and women’s straw hat made from fine, hand-plaited, creamy coloured toquilla straw. Panama hats are mainly made in Ecuador. A weave which consists of several warp and weft threads crossing each other at once, producing a mat-like effect Knitted hosiery swatches or panels used for testing purposes. Flattened or pressed flat as Panné velvet. Silk or synthetic satin with an unusually high lustre because of a special finish Silk or synthetic velvet with a short pile on the right side that is pressed flat and laid in one direction during manufacture. This gives the effect of a shiny shimmery velvet. The fabric is soft and floppy, comfortable to wear. It is the easiest of all velvets to sew. Drapes well. Used for eveningwear, robes, leisure clothes, tops and trousers.



624 Word PANTING PANTOGRAPH



PAPER FIBRE



Category Short description fabrics Sometimes refers to Trousering. apparatus, A device used to equipage, copy a printing tools design in a scale other than the original. fibers, Fibres unsuitable for filaments, textile operations, yarns but which find use in paper making.



PAPER MUSLIN



fabrics



PAPER TAFFETA



fabrics



PAPER YARN



fibers, filaments, yarns



PAPERING



A lightweight cotton muslin which has been sized and glazed, mainly used for lining. A fine-weave, lightweight taffeta fabric which has been treated to make it crisper than usual.



Treated paper of high strength is made into paper yarns for use alone, to twist with other fibre yarns, or to surround the core in a core yarn.



processes, The insertion of cold operations or heated board



Description Sometimes refers to Trousering. A device used to copy a printing design in a scale other than the original. Fibres unsuitable for textile operations, but which find use in paper making. These include flax, cotton, rayon, linen, silk, nylon, vinyl fibres, jute and other bast fibres. These are used in conjunction with other normal paper raw materials, such as wood pulp. A lightweight cotton muslin which has been sized and glazed, mainly used for lining. A fine-weave, lightweight taffeta fabric which has been treated to make it crisper than usual. The crispness is usually a permanent finish. It produces a paper-like crackle. See Taffeta. Treated paper of high strength is made into paper yarns for use alone, to twist with other fibre yarns, or to surround the core in a core yarn. These yarns are used for knitted and woven garments and household articles The insertion of cold or heated board



625 Word



Category



Short description Description elements (papers) elements (papers) into folds of fabric into folds of fabric prior to pressing in a prior to pressing in a hydraulic press. hydraulic press. A hyper-smooth finish PAPERY FINISH processes, A hyper-smooth on fabric produced by operations finish on fabric sizing and produced by sizing calendering. Often and calendering. quite and crisp in hand. PAPIER MACHÉ general A paper-based A paper-based mixture that can be mixture that can be shaped or moulded shaped or moulded into strong, into strong, lightweight articles lightweight articles such as dress forms. such as dress forms. PAPYRUS FIBRE fibers, Fibres from a rush- Fibres from a rushfilaments, like aquatic plant, like aquatic plant, yarns formerly common in formerly common in Egypt. Used for Egypt. Used for writing paper. writing paper. The stem fibres have been used since ancient times for cloth, sails, mats, cords, etc. PARACHUTE FABRIC fabrics A lightweight but A lightweight but strong fabric used for strong fabric used for parachutes parachutes; originally of silk but now of nylon yarn. PARAFFIN DUCK fabrics A stiff, heavy, water- A stiff, heavy, waterproofed duck treated proofed duck treated with a preparation of with a preparation of paraffin. Used for paraffin. coats and trousers for rough outdoor wear. PARAGUAY LACE fabrics Single threads are Single threads are used to produce used to produce spider’s web effects, spider’s web effects, which are then which are then woven woven together. together. Transparent plates PARALLEL LINE GRATINGS apparatus, Transparent plates equipage, containing uniformly containing uniformly tools spaced parallel lines spaced parallel lines in the cross-wise in the cross-wise direction. It is direction.



626 Word



Category



PARALLEL WORSTED SYSTEM PARALLEL WOUND PACKAGE



processes, operations fibers, filaments, yarns



PARALLELING



processes, operations



PARAMATTA



fabrics



Short description



Description possible to determine the number of threads per unit length (cm or inch) in a fabric by selecting an appropriate grating and placing it parallel to a set of threads. The number of lines appearing on the grating indicates the difference between the total number of lines on the grating and the total number of threads in the area covered by the grating. By placing a grating at a small angle to a set of threads, irregularities in their spacing can be detected See Modified See Modified worsted worsted system. system. A package on which A package on which the yarn coils are the yarn coils are wound side-by-side wound side-by-side roughly perpendicular roughly perpendicular to the to the package axis. package axis. Laying strands of Laying strands of fibres straight and fibres straight and even by machine even by machine operations, such as operations, such as combing or drawing. combing or drawing. A fine quality 1/2 twill A fine quality 1/2 twill fabric with worsted fabric with worsted weft, used particularly weft, used in the making of particularly in the double-texture making of doublerubber-proofed texture rubberproofed garments. garments. The term was originally applied to a dress fabric with silk (later cotton) warp, woven in Paramatta, New



627 Word



Category



Short description



PARCHMENTIZING



processes, A finishing treatment, operations comprising a short contact with, e.g. sulphuric acid of high concentration



PARIS BINDING



accessorie A binding, with firm s handle, of twill or herringbone twill weave (usually 3/1)



PART WOOL FELT



PARTIAL ACETYLATION



fabrics



A textile composed of wool fibres



processes, A process, in which operations cotton in the form of fibre or yarn is subjected to partial acetylation



Description South Wales. A finishing treatment, comprising a short contact with, e.g. sulphuric acid of high concentration, the aim of which is to produce a variety of effects, depending on the type of fabric and the conditions used, ranging from a linenlike handle to a transparent organdie effect. The treatment is applied mainly to cotton. Apart from sulphuric acid some other reagents also produce these effects. A binding, with firm handle, of twill or herringbone twill weave (usually 3/1) originally made with silk warp and polished cotton weft, but usually made with mercerised cotton or continuous filament warp and weft. Often used to reinforce clothing subject to high abrasion. See Kick tape. A textile composed of wool fibres in combination with any one or any combination of natural or man-made fibres. A process, in which cotton in the form of fibre or yarn is subjected to partial acetylation to impart



628 Word



Category



Short description



Description it, special properties. See also Acetylation. PARTIAL RACKING processes, See under Racking See under Racking operations PARTIALLY ORIENTED YARN fibers, A continuous A continuous filament filaments, filament yarn made yarn made by yarns by extruding a extruding a synthetic synthetic polymer polymer so that a substantial degree of molecular orientation is present in the resulting filaments, but further molecular orientation is possible, i.e. filament yarn which is incompletely drawn. A term used to PASHMINA TWEED fabrics A term used to describe tweed fabric describe tweed woven with handfabric woven with hand-spun cashmere spun cashmere yarn on hand-looms in yarn on hand-looms Kashmir in Kashmir PASSEMENTERIE accessorie Trimmings, Trimmings, especially s especially braids, braids, beads, cord, beads, cord, gimp, gimp, etc etc PASTELS fabrics Fabrics dyed in light Fabrics dyed in light shade colours. shade colours. PATCH fabrics An ornamental piece An ornamental piece of fabric generally of fabric generally with embroidered with embroidered design, sewn on a design, sewn on a garment. May be an garment. insignia, badge or other decorative trim. PATCH POCKET garments, A pocket formed by A pocket formed by made-ups, attaching a piece of attaching a piece of material to the material to the assemblie surface of a garment. surface of a s garment. Pieces of fabric in PATCH WORK processes, Pieces of fabric in various colours operations various colours and/or shapes sewn and/or shapes sewn together to form a together textile article such as a quilt or pillow cover.



629 Word PATENT LEATHER



PATOLA



PATTERN



PATTERN BLANKET



Category Short description fabrics A varnished leather that is very expensive.



Description A varnished leather that is very expensive. Used mainly for shoes and handbags. fabrics A plain weave, richly A plain weave, richly decorated, silk fabric decorated, silk fabric with a tie-dyed or with a tie-dyed or hand-blocked border, hand-blocked made in India. border, made in India. fabrics, Design of a fabric 1. Design of a fabric garments, which is either which is either made-ups, woven-in or printed woven-in or printed assemblie on the cloth. on the cloth. s 2. A replica of garment in flat card or paper. A template used for marking out the parts of a garment on material prior to cutting. See also Block pattern. fabrics Also called Also called Designer’s blanket Designer’s blanket. The product of a system for designing fabrics, especially suitings, whereby a warp consisting of a number of different block stripes is woven in a given pattern and weft in different colours or picking patterns are introduced at intervals. The resulting ‘blanket’ exhibits a number of combinations of colours in a single construction, some of which constitute a random range. Pattern blankets are used to provide samples for



630 Word PATTERN CHAIN



PATTERN CUTTER



Category



Short description



apparatus, Chain used on looms equipage, to control the pattern tools of the fabric. general A person who determines the shapes of the components of garments, to ensure that they fit together



PATTERN DEFECTS IN GARMENT PATTERN WARPING



defects



See under Garment defects, classified. processes, Also called Band operations warping.



PBI FIBRE



fibers, P.B.I. is an filaments, abbreviation for yarns ‘polybenzimidazole’.



PEANUT FIBRE



fibers, A synthetic staple filaments, fibre produced from yarns a protein base derivative from peanut meal.



Description commercial selection. Chain used on looms to control the pattern of the fabric. A person who determines the shapes of the components of garments, to ensure that they fit together and, when assembled, reflect the intentions of the designer and also ensure that they conform to the dimensions of intended size. See under Garment defects, classified. Also called Band warping. The process of preparing warp beams over two stages; first winding the yarn in narrow tapes on a large drum or reel, and then rewinding the complete warp onto the beam. A manufactured fibre in which the fibreforming substance is a long chain aromatic polymer having reoccurring imidazole groups as an integral part of the polymer chain. P.B.I. is an abbreviation for ‘polybenzimidazole’. A synthetic staple fibre produced from a protein base derivative from peanut meal. It has soft hand, is quite



631 Word



PEARLE COTTON



Category



Short description



fibers, A loosely twisted, filaments, mercerised cotton yarns thread with a rope or corded appearance.



PEARLS



fabrics



Also called Purls



PEAU



fabrics



A French term for skin.



PEAU DE CYGNE



fabrics



A very soft satin fabric, woven in fine soft yarns with a lustrous finish.



PEAU DE SOIE



fabrics



A French term, meaning literally ‘skin of silk’



PEBBLE



fabrics



A term often used for



Description lofty, but is relatively low in dry and wet tenacity. A loosely twisted, mercerised cotton thread with a rope or corded appearance. It has some weaving and knitting applications but mainly used for needlework of various kinds. Also called Purls.In lace, small loops either at the edge of a piece of narrow lace or used as decoration in Brides. A French term for skin. Combined with one or more words to designate fabrics. A very soft satin fabric, woven in fine soft yarns with a lustrous finish. Used mainly for expensive lingerie. See Satin. A French term, meaning literally ‘skin of silk’ applied originally to a fine silk fabric, the term is now also used to describe fabrics made from synthetic fibres, such as polyester and acetate, that have the typical look of ‘peau de soie’. It is a satin weave with matt finish on both sides, and is usually a firm, heavy fabric in plain colours. Used for formal dresses. A term often used for



632 Word



Category



PEBBLE WEAVE PECCARY LEATHER



fabrics fabrics



PECTASE PEEL BOND STRENGTH



³ general



PEGGING



processes, operations



PEKIN



fabrics



PELT



general



PENCIL STRIPE



fabrics



PENCILLING



processes, operations



PENETRABILITY OF FABRIC



fabrics



Short description Description the characteristic the characteristic appearance of a appearance of a crêpe fabric. crêpe fabric. A granite weave. A granite weave. A lightweight pigskin A lightweight pigskin leather. leather. Used for gloves. See under Enzymes. See under Enzymes. Actual force required Actual force required to peel or to separate to peel or to separate two layers two layers of bonded goods. This test is of bonded goods. done on the fabric both on wet and dry. Result expressed in unit weight of pull per one-inch width of the bonded goods. A finishing process A finishing process that is used to that is used to produce a lustre on produce a lustre on velveteens. The pile velveteens. is rubbed with blocks of wood or soapstone A design in which A design in which wide stripes of equal wide stripes of equal width are woven in width are woven in different colours or different colours or weaves weaves Skin of an animal, Skin of an animal, including the hair. including the hair. Specifically, the skin of sheep, including the wool. A dark stripe on a A dark stripe on a lighter ground lighter ground (regardless of the (regardless of the width of stripe. See width of stripe. also Pin stripe and Chalk stripe. In printing, the In printing, the touching up of a touching up of a printed fabric with a printed fabric with a fine brush. fine brush. A fabric’s ability to A fabric’s ability to permit penetration by permit penetration by rain rain



633 Word PENETRATION OF SIZE



PENTA-LOBAL



PENTAGRAPH



PEPPER AND SALT



Category Short description Description apparatus, The extent to which The extent to which a equipage, a size solution size solution tools penetrates into the penetrates into the yarn structure. yarn structure. A five-sided manfibers, A five-sided manfilaments, made fibre as seen made fibre as seen in cross section under yarns in cross section the microscope. The under the modification of the microscope. circular shape to the penta-lobal has been done to increase the lustre of the yarn. apparatus, The machine using The machine using the pantograph equipage, the pantograph tools principle to transfer principle to transfer at at one time as many one time as many print-design repeats print-design repeats as are required as are required around the surface around the surface of the copper cylinder. of the copper Originally the design cylinder was always increased five times in size on to the zinc master plate before being transferred at original size on to the surface of the copper cylinder; hence this traditional corruption of the word ‘pantograph’ in textile trade. fabrics Fabric having fine Fabric having fine speckled effect speckled effect. The appearance of cloth suggests a mixture of salt and pepper. The effect is obtained by the use of twocoloured twisted yarns, ordinarily in black and white or by the intricacy of weave with two or more solid coloured yarns. Cloth also made in shades



634 Word



Category



Short description



PERCALE



fabrics



A closely woven plain weave fabric, usually of Egyptian cotton, or lighter weight than chintz.



PERCALINE



fabrics



Lightweight cotton print fabric similar to lawn, with a bright soft finish.



PERCE



fabrics



Perforated effect.



PERCENT ELONGATION



general



Deprecated term.



PERCENTAGE COVER



fabrics



PERCENTAGE MATURITY



Cover factor as a percentage of the maximum possible for a particular weave structure. fibers, A method of filaments, expressing, yarns numerically, the maturity of a sample of cotton fibres



Description of grey, brown, green, and blue, etc. See also Salt and pepper. A closely woven plain weave fabric, usually of Egyptian cotton, or lighter weight than chintz. A percale has smooth surface and compact structure, may be plain or printed, glazed or unglazed. It is hardwearing and launders well. Used for blouses, shirts, and children’s clothes, sheets and duvet covers. See also under Sheeting. Percale, as applied to bed sheeting, is a plain weave fabric with not fewer than 180 yarns/inch2. Lightweight cotton print fabric similar to lawn, with a bright soft finish. Usually the yarn is mercerised. Used for lining fur garments. Perforated effect. Specifically, eye-let patterns. Deprecated term. Use the term Elongation. Cover factor as a percentage of the maximum possible for a particular weave structure. A method of expressing, numerically, the maturity of a sample of cotton fibres. It is the percentage fibres



635 Word



Category



PERCENTAGE POINT



general



PERCH



Short description



A difference of 1% of a base quantity apparatus, A machine used for equipage, inspecting fabrics for tools defects.



PERCHING



processes, operations



Examination of woven goods to record all visible defects and imperfections



PERFORATED WEAVE



fabrics



An open mesh character of mockleno fabric created by the weave



PERFORMANCE CHARACTERISTICS, FABRICS PERFORMANCE PROPERTY



fabrics



See Fabric performance characteristics. In wear testing, any chemical or physical property of a fibre, yarn, or fabric that is evaluated during the wear-refurbishing cycles.



general



Description in the sample whose walls have developed to greater than specified degree. See also Maturity ratio and Percentage maturity A difference of 1% of a base quantity A machine used for inspecting fabrics for defects. The machine permits full width inspection of the cloth Examination of woven goods to record all visible defects and imperfections for correction in subsequent finishing operations, or for quality classification of finished goods. An open mesh character of mockleno fabric created by the weave. The effect may be emphasised by leaving one or more dents empty and varying the rate of take-up. Lightweight open textures are sometimes called to as ‘imitation mock gauze’. See Fabric performance characteristics. In wear testing, any chemical or physical property of a fibre, yarn, or fabric that is evaluated during the wear-refurbishing cycles.



636 Word PERLE



PERLOK PROCESS



PERLON



PERMANENT DEFORMATION PERMANENT FINISH



PERMANENT PLEATING



Category Short description processes, A finishing process operations used on woollen dress fabrics, which raises the nap in the form of dots. processes, A process whereby operations groups of continuous filament tow are converted through breaking or cutting into a top or sliver. fibers, Trade name of a filaments, polyamide fibre. yarns general



Same as Permanent set processes, A finishing process operations applied to various fabrics which will retain their specific properties



processes, Wide variety of operations permanently pleated fabric available.



Description A finishing process used on woollen dress fabrics, which raises the nap in the form of dots. A process whereby groups of continuous filament tow are converted through breaking or cutting into a top or sliver. Trade name of a polyamide fibre. Has the same properties as nylon. Same as Permanent set A finishing process applied to various fabrics which will retain their specific properties, such as glaze on chintz, crispness in organdy, smoothness on cotton table damask, crease resistance, crush resistance, and shrink resistance, during normal period of wear and laundering. However it is misnomer, because in most cases finishes are not completely permanent. The words resistant or durable are more accurate. Wide variety of permanently pleated fabric available. Is usually knife pleatednarrow pleats on fine fabric, wider ones on thicker fabrics. The fabric may be of almost any weave,



637 Word



Category



Short description



Description including knit, and may be closely woven or have a lacy pattern. If the fibre is synthetic the pleating will be permanent and therefore probably washable, but if natural fibres included the pleating cannot be heat set and is therefore not permanent. Many fabrics are available in matching colours; one plain cloth, the other pleated, so that garments combining both can be made. The fabrics vary from chiffon and georgette, to fine knits and quite heavy skirt and dress fabrics. Some of it is sold flat with the pleats removed, some is sold with a paper backing and measured with the pleats folded. It is all fairly expensive. PERMANENT PRESS processes, This term as a This term as a operations substitute to ‘durable substitute to ‘durable press’ is undesirable press’ is undesirable. See Durable press. PERMANENT SET processes, See under Setting. See under Setting. operations PERMANENT STARCHLESS processes, A finishing process A finishing process FINISH operations that impregnates a that impregnates a fabric and is not fabric and is not dissolved in dissolved in laundering. laundering. The cloth returns to its original crispness when ironed. PERMASTIFF SEW-IN accessorie See Under Sew-in See Under Sew-in s woven interfacings. woven interfacings. PERMEABILITY general The rate of flow of a The rate of flow of a



638 Word



PEROXIDE



Category



processes, An oxide containing operations a relatively high proportion of oxygen.



PERSPIRATION



general



PERSPIRATION-RESISTANT



fabrics



PETERSHAM RIBBON



Short description fluid under a differential pressure through a material.



A saline fluid secreted by the sweat glands



A term applied to fabrics or dyes which are relatively unaffected by acid and alkaline perspiration. accessorie MILLINERY. Ribbon s in plain weave originally used on ladies’ hats which usually has a continuous filament warp



Description fluid under a differential pressure through a material. See also Air permeability. Fluid under differential pressure includes: gas under differential gas pressure, vapour under differential vapour pressure, water under differential hydrostatic pressure An oxide containing a relatively high proportion of oxygen. Strictly, a higher oxide in which oxygen is joined to oxygen, as in hydrogen peroxide. Very useful as bleaching agents. A saline fluid secreted by the sweat glands, which can cause on fabrics, odour, loss of colour and strength. There are perspiration resistant finishes which are useful for dress fabrics and especially linings. A term applied to fabrics or dyes which are relatively unaffected by acid and alkaline perspiration. 1. MILLINERY. Ribbon in plain weave originally used on ladies’ hats which usually has a continuous filament warp, typically with



639 Word



Category



PETIT POINT STITCH



general



PH (pH)



general



Short description



Description 10-12 picks per cm of cotton or spun viscose giving it a pronounced rib. The edge is formed by the turn of the weft. 2. SKIRT. A narrow fabric having a pronounced rib, usually with 9-12 picks per cm and having lateral stiffness produced either by the high density of the weave or by a finishing process. In older times, some were woven with pockets for whale born or plastic strips to give added lateral stiffness. In the contrast to Petersham ribbon, millinery, above, it has an edge of contrasting weave. A small, slanting A small, slanting stitch worked over stitch worked over the the separated double separated double threads of the threads of the canvas canvas to form even lines of solid background. Used on cushions, chair covers and handbags. A measure of the A measure of the acidity or alkalinity of acidity or alkalinity of a solution a solution, with neutrality represented by a value of 7, with increasing acidity represented by increasingly smaller values, and with increasing alkalinity represented by increasingly larger values.



640 Word



PHILIPPINE EMBROIDERY



PHOOL KARY



Category



Short description



processes, Hand needlework, operations characterised by dainty floral designs.



fabrics



A striped cotton muslin embroidered with small buds, branches and other designs.



PHORMIUM



fibers, The fibre from wildly filaments, grown flax plant yarns ‘phoriun tenax’ in New Zealand.



PHOTOCHROMISM



apparatus, In some dyeings the equipage, colour of a dyeing tools changes on exposure to light, but reverts to its original state after the sample is kept in the dark.



Description The negative logarithm of the effective hydrogen ion concentration or hydrogen ion activity in gram equivalents per litre used in expressing both acidity and alkalinity on a scale whose values run from 0-14, with 7 representing neutrality, numbers less than 7 increasing acidity, and numbers greater than 7 increasing alkalinity. Hand needlework, characterised by dainty floral designs. Primarily used on less expensive lingerie. A striped cotton muslin embroidered with small buds, branches and other designs. From around Lashkar, India. The fibre from wildly grown flax plant ‘phoriun tenax’ in New Zealand. Fairly strong and flexible, and has good resistance to sea water. Used mainly for ropes, twines and coarse bagging materials. Same as New Zealand flax In some dyeings the colour of a dyeing changes on exposure to light, but reverts to its original state after the sample is kept in the dark. A qualitative



641 Word



Category



Short description



Description designation for a reversible change in colour of any kind (whether a change in hue or chroma) which is immediately noticeable upon termination of light exposures when the exposed area of a specimen is compared to the unexposed area. The reversion of the colour change or instability of the hue or chroma upon standing in the dark distinguishes phototropism from fading. Photochromism is a reaction influenced by the wavelength of the light energy from the sun. These wavelengths can be long and invisible (infra red), the medium and visible and short and invisible (UV radiation). In technical terms, photochromism is the inter-conversion of two molecular states (A & B) brought about by the absorption of light. A absorbs light at a certain wavelength and converts to B. In the absence of the activating wavelength, B spontaneously reconverts to A. It is a molecular see-saw



642 Word



PHOTODEGRADATION



Category



Short description



processes, Degradation caused operations by the absorption of light or other radiation and by consequent chemical reactions.



PHOTOGRAPHIC processes, See Process ENGRAVING operations engraving PHOTOGRAPHIC PRINTING processes, Application of a operations photographic image to cloth



PHOTOGRAVURE



PHOTOMECHANICAL TECHNIQUES



processes, The process by operations which AN ‘engraving’ is produced in a metal plate or cylinder by means of light acting on a sensitised surface and the resultant image then being etched in acid.



processes, operations



In printing, photographic techniques



Description that is at the heart of photochromism. Degradation caused by the absorption of light or other radiation and by consequent chemical reactions. Ultra-violet radiation is an especially potent cause See Process engraving Application of a photographic image to cloth, by transfer from photo-engraved copper rolls or rollers. The process by which AN ‘engraving’ is produced in a metal plate or cylinder by means of light acting on a sensitised surface and the resultant image then being etched in acid. Conventional gravure cylinders all have cells or ‘dots’ of the same width but varying depth so that they hold either more or less ink, thus producing varying tones of one colour. One of the main methods of printing transfer paper for transfer printing In printing, photographic techniques in which a screen serves to break up the gradations of a continuous-tone subject into a series of minute dots of



643 Word



PHOTOMETER



PHOTOMICROGRAPH



Category



Short description



apparatus, An instrument that equipage, measures the light tools reflectancy of surfaces.



general



A photograph of a magnified object obtained by attaching a camera to a microscope. PHTHALOGEN ³ See under Ingrain dye. PHYSICAL TEXTILE TESTING general Laboratory tests made on fibres, yarns and fabrics by mechanical devices. PHYSIOLOGICAL COMFORTS garments, One of the main OF GARMENTS made-ups, purposes of clothing assemblie is to protect the body s from heat loss.



Description varying size or a series of fine lines. An instrument that measures the light reflectancy of surfaces. Find use in the testing of whiteness, soil removal, colour fading, etc. A photograph of a magnified object obtained by attaching a camera to a microscope. See under Ingrain dye. Laboratory tests made on fibres, yarns and fabrics by mechanical devices. One of the main purposes of clothing is to protect the body from heat loss. It has been found that ‘still air’ is the best possible insulator, which plays a very important part in retaining body warmth. There is trapped air between the yarns and fibres of a fabric, also within the kinks and curls of textural filaments, and in any brushed or pile surface, all of which increases a fabric’s warmth virtually by the way the air is used. There is very large volume of air in most fabrics as, for instance, in a blanket more than 90% of the bulk is occupied by



644 Word



Category



Short description



Description air. In order to provide insulation the entrapped air must be immobilised, and therefore under windy conditions the outer layer of the clothing assembly should be almost impermeable to air. Although fabrics can be constructed to have very low permeability, no woven or knitted fabric can ever be completely impermeable. This can only be achieved by laminating the fabric to a plastic film or coating. But, very closely woven cotton fabrics, or polyester and cotton blended, using fine yarns set very closely together so that air and wind have difficulty in passing between them, from a reasonably good insulating outer layer, particularly if finished with a showerproof treatment. The value of air gaps between clothing layers, has been tested on a person wearing a vest, shirt and jacket show that has been found out to be tests, and the results show that out of the total thermal resistance for the whole assembly, 66% is due to the



645 Word



Category



Short description



Description garments and 34% to the air gaps between them; such air gaps between garment layers can contribute significantly to the warmth of a clothing system. Yet because fibres in a textile fabric occupy only a small fraction of the total volume, the difference in thermal conductivity between one fibre and another is unimportant in clothing for average climates. These with low conductivity, often used for internal layers of cold weather clothing, are polypropylene, polyester and polyvinylchloride. Wool, acrylic, and cellulose acetate are higher, then viscose and polyethylene. Cotton has the highest thermal conductivity; i.e. produces the lowest heat retention. The thermal insulation of air is about one thirtieth of most fibres and about one sixth of most fabrics. Textiles can protect the body from excessive radiant heat such as the sun’s rays, or the heat of a furnace. In this case a dense fabric construction is necessary in order to



646 Word



Category



Short description



Description gain maximum protection. Colour can also divert radiant heat from the body by means of reflection. White provides good heat reflection whereas black is the least effective. Thick fabrics coated with aluminium foil give a high protection against radiant heat, although aluminium paint is less efficient. In addition to protecting the body against excessive heat from the outside, it is necessary in cold climates to protect it from radiant heat loss from the body into the clothing assembly or the outside atmosphere. Under normal conditions of atmospheric temperature and humidity (the amount of moisture in the air) and of body activity, the entire human body is continuously producing perspiration in order to regulate the body’s temperature, which evaporates within the skin layers and is emitted in the form of water vapour, which is invisible. Physiologists refer to it as ‘sensible’ perspiration which is liquid sweat normally only appearing when



647 Word



Category



Short description



Description the temperature and humidity of the air is abnormally high or the individual indulges in strenuous exercise. A third form of perspiration is the apocrine sweating from certain glands which can contribute to offensive body odours; this can be either acid or alkaline. But as long as the normal perspiration remains insensible that is, in vapour form - a person will feel reasonably comfortable. Yet if water vapour cannot escape quickly enough through the clothing, the percentage of relative humidity at skin level will increase, making the wearer feel clammy and if the conditions and type of clothing are such that the relative humidity within the clothing is increased to 100%, liquid moisture is formed on the skin and sometimes on the garment, by condensation of the water vapour, and the discomfort is increased. To be comfortable the skin must be kept in a dry condition and the body temperature should be constant, not too high or too low - between 35°C



648 Word



Category



Short description



Description and 40°C, preferably at 37°C. The need for fabrics to allow transmission of water vapour is generally understood but it is often confused with air permeability. Air and water vapour pass through a fabric in different ways. All textile fibres irrespective of their chemical composition are impermeable to air and therefore the passage of air through a fabric can only take place through spaces between the fibres, called the interstices. The water vapour on the other hand, passes through fabric in several ways, sometimes through the interstices and sometimes right through the fibre itself, evaporating in the process, which can cause cooling of the skin. Every fibre has a different ability to absorb and evaporate moisture. For example, PVC fibres, polypropylene and polyethylene fibres have none; polyester and nylon have very little; wool has reasonably good ability, whilst linen, viscose and cotton are very good for this purposes. Water



649 Word



Category



Short description



Description vapour can pass through all absorbent fibres, but some have better facilities for moisture evaporation than others. It is possible to have a fabric with very low air permeability but with high moisture vapour permeability, dependent on the fibre used. For tropical clothing the fabrics should be made of open weave to allow air permeability and to absorbent with high evaporation ability. Also the air between the body and the layers of clothing should be kept circulating. Open necks and sleeves, shirts at the hips, not belted or tucked in enables the air currents to pass through the garment. Conversely, to provide extra warmth in the same garment, the collar can be buttoned closely at the neck, the sleeve cuffs fastened round wrist and the waist belted tightly, which stops the air currents and creates a still air insulation round the body, providing as much extra warmth as putting on a additional lightweight garment. Softness is a quality



650 Word



Category



Short description



PHYSIOLOGICAL DISCOMFORTS OF GARMENTS



garments, Sensorial discomfort, made-ups, Thermophysiological assemblie discomfort, Garment Fitting discomfort s



PICK



fabrics, An individual length processes, of weft yarn (filling operations yarn) or group of threads



PICK AND PICK



PICK AT WILL



fabrics



A fabric with alternating weft threads, one pick of one kind or colour and one pick of another.



apparatus, A loom on which it is equipage, possible to pick more tools than once from one



Description generally associated with comfort. The qualities that are generally associated with physiological discomforts of garments are: Sensorial discomfort: What the garment feels like when worn next to skin; allergy, tickle, prickle, initial cold feel of fabric, abrasion of skin, loose fibres are shed, wet fabric clings to the skin, etc. Thermophysiological discomfort: Whether the garment feel too warm, or too cold, and it transport sweat away from skin, etc. Garment Fitting discomfort: Whether the garment is tight fit overall, or tight fit at local areas, etc. Sometimes called Shot. 1. An individual length of weft yarn (filling yarn) or group of threads, or 2. The process of inserting the filling yarn. See Pick spacing. A fabric with alternating weft threads, one pick of one kind or colour and one pick of another. See also Pick at will. A loom on which it is possible to pick more than once from one



651 Word



PICK BAR



PICK COUNT



PICK COUNTER



PICK DENSITY



PICK GLASSS



PICK OUT



PICK SPACING



PICK STITCH



Category



Short description Description side or single picks side or single picks from different sides. from different sides. defects Fabric defect. Fabric defect. A bar in which the pick spacing is different from that in the normal fabric. fabrics In woven fabrics, the 1. In woven fabrics, number of weft yarns the number of weft per inch of fabric. yarns per inch of fabric. 2. In braided rope, the number of strands rotating in one direction in one cycle length divided by the cycle length apparatus, See Counting glass. See Counting glass. equipage, tools fabrics The number of picks The number of picks per unit length of per unit length of fabric. fabric. The number of weft yarns (picks) per unit distance as counted while the fabric is held under zero tension, and is free of folds and wrinkles. See Pick spacing. apparatus, See Counting glass. See Counting glass. equipage, tools processes, Determination of the Determination of the operations weave in a fabric by weave in a fabric by noting how each yarn noting how each interlace with every yarn interlace with other yarn in one every other yarn in repeat of the pattern one repeat of the pattern fabrics The distance The distance between between two picks in two picks in a woven a woven fabric. fabric. general A hand stitch A hand stitch made by passing the needle straight through the



652 Word



Category



Short description



PICK-FOUND



fabrics



PICK-OUT MARK



defects



Term describes a fabric, that contains no missed or broken picks. Also called Rip-out. Fabric defect.



PICK-OUT PLACE PICK-UP PICKAGE



defects general fabrics



PICKER



apparatus, equipage, tools



PICKING



processes, operations



PICKING-OUT PICOLAY



processes, operations fabrics



PICOT



fabrics



Description material at right angles to the surface alternately from one side to the other. Term describes a fabric, that contains no missed or broken picks. Also called Rip-out. Fabric defect. A weftwise band or bar characterised by a chafed or fuzzy appearance due to the pulling out of the original picks. See Temple mark. See Add-on. The number of picks (weft threads) per inch. The part of the picking mechanism of the loom that actually strikes the shuttle.



See Temple mark. See Add-on. The number of picks (weft threads) per inch. The part of the picking mechanism of the loom that actually strikes the shuttle. The action of weft The action of weft insertion. insertion. Passing the weft thread. See Unweaving. See Unweaving.



Compact cotton fabric Compact cotton with a plain weave, fabric with a plain embossed with a weave, embossed diamond pattern to with a diamond pattern to resemble resemble diamond piqué. Used for diamond piqué children’s clothes, tablecloths. A purl on lace or a 1. A purl on lace or a small loop woven on small loop woven on edge of ribbon. edge of ribbon. A hem-stitching machine may also make a picot edge. 2. Loops forming runresistance in the top



653 Word PICOTAGE



Category



Short description



fabrics, A speckled effect on processes, the surface of a pile operations fabric



PIECE



fabrics



Also called Bolt.



PIECE GOODS



fabrics



Any fabric that has been made up for sale



PIECE-DYEING



processes, The woven fabric is operations dyed a solid colour by complete immersion,



PIECE-RATE



general



A method of payment of employees by pricing the task that they are required to do.



PIECING



processes, operations , defects



Yarn defect.



PIGMENT DYES



apparatus, A colourant in equipage, particulate form tools which is insoluble in a substrate but which can be dispersed in the substrate to modify its colour.



Description of hosiery. 1. A speckled effect on the surface of a pile fabric owing to differential light reflection from deformed tips of tufts. 2.See Pinning Also called Bolt. A length of fabric, of customarily accepted unit length. Any fabric that has been made up for sale, usually used in reference to that sold by the yard or metre in retail stores. The woven fabric is dyed a solid colour by complete immersion, contrasted with yarn dyeing or raw stock dyeing. A method of payment of employees by pricing the task that they are required to do. The more tasks they complete within a certain time, the higher the reward. 1. Joining the ends of a broken yarn. See also End breaks. 2. Yarn defect. A thick place in a yarn caused by poor splicing A colourant in particulate form which is insoluble in a substrate but which can be dispersed in the substrate to modify its colour. In admixture with a



654 Word



PIGMENT PRINTING



Category



Short description



Description suitable resin binder they are applied on the majority of textile fabrics. Pigment colours are not soluble, cannot penetrate fibre surfaces, and therefore must be attached to the surface of the fabric by a binder. A polymeric resin serves as a binder. When the resin is cured or permanently fixed to the fabric, the dye is also fixed on the fabric surface. The colour fastness of pigment colours is dependent on the durability of the binder, not pigment. These colours, unlike dyestuffs which stain the fibre of the cloth, are generally only a surface colouration, i.e. they coat the outside of each warp and weft thread with which they get in contact. Pigment dyes (+ binder) are: suitable for cotton, linen, wool, silk, viscose rayon, cuprammonium rayon, cellulose acetate, cellulose triacetate, polyamide, polyester, acrylic, and fibre glass fibres suitable for elastomeric fibres, but lacks fastness. processes, Printing an insoluble Printing an insoluble operations colouring material on colouring material on



655 Word



Category



PIGMENT TAFFETA



fabrics



PIGMENTED



fibers, filaments, yarns fabrics



PIGSKIN



PILATE



PILE



PILE FABRIC



Short description cloth.



Description cloth. The colour, which has no affinity for the fibre, is fixed to the cloth by a binding adhesive resin that has affinity for both the pigment and the cloth. Methods include water-in-oil or oil-inwater or solvent dispersion. The only taffeta The only taffeta fabric fabric without shine. without shine. Dull, pigmented yarns, lacking lustre are used. See Taffeta. See Delustered. See Delustered.



This skin is easily recognised by the little holes or pores where once the bristles of the pig grew.



processes, A term sometimes operations used in place of pile lifting. fabrics The loops or tufts (cut loops) that stand up from the body of the fabric and which form all or part of the surface



fabrics



Any fabric of any fibre that has raised surface of individual fibres, making a furry surface.



This skin is easily recognised by the little holes or pores where once the bristles of the pig grew. Very hardwearing. Used for gloves, coats, belts, and handbags. A term sometimes used in place of pile lifting. See Pile lifting. The loops or tufts (cut loops) that stand up from the body of the fabric and which form all or part of the surface; the surface texture composed of many tuft legs bound to a backing fabric in an orderly repetitive array. Any fabric of any fibre that has raised surface of individual fibres, making a furry surface. Pile may be



656 Word



PILE FLOOR COVERING



PILE KNIT



PILE LAY



PILE RETENTION



PILE REVERSAL



PILE RUCHE



Category



Short description



garments, A pile fabric intended made-ups, for use as a floor assemblie covering. s



fabrics



Any fabric with a knitted construction as the base and a looped or cut pile on the surface.



garments, In floor covering, the made-ups, direction in which most of the pile assemblie fibres lean in the s original, uncrushed carpet. fabrics The degree to which cut-pile yarns are held secure and intact during wear. fabrics A persistent change in the direction of pile lay in certain areas, so that a difference of shade is observed. accessorie



Description uncut in manufacture, e.g. terry towelling, or cut, e.g. velour. The direction of the pile on the cloth may be felt or it can sometimes be observed by holding the length of cloth vertically. Where the pile is running upwards, the cloth will look a different shade from where it is running downwards. A pile fabric intended for use as a floor covering. The pile may be in the form of cut loops or loops or both. Both the cut loops and the loops may vary in height Any fabric with a knitted construction as the base and a looped or cut pile on the surface. Examples are Stretch towelling, Jersey velour. In floor covering, the direction in which most of the pile fibres lean in the original, uncrushed carpet.



The degree to which cut-pile yarns are held secure and intact during wear. A persistent change in the direction of pile lay in certain areas, so that a difference of shade is observed. See also Shading and Water mark. See under Ruche. See under Ruche.



657 Word PILE WARP



Category s fabrics



PILE WEAVE



fabrics



PILE WEFT



fabrics



PILE YARN FLOOR COVERING



PILE, IN CARPET



Short description



Description



Warp which is looped up with wires for making the surface of plush or raised fabrics. By the use of either extra warps or extra wefts, loops are formed on the surface of the fabric.



Warp which is looped up with wires for making the surface of plush or raised fabrics. By the use of either extra warps or extra wefts, loops are formed on the surface of the fabric. The loops are either cut or left uncut. Many corduroy, velvet, velveteen, rugs, and terry cloth are woven by pile method. The weft which is woven into velveteens and similar fabrics for the purpose of being cut to form a surface pile A textile product in which yarn or yarn segments are attached intermittently to a backing fabric so as to project above the backing fabric to form a pile; the yarn entering the backing fabric substantially perpendicular to the plane of the backing fabric. That part of a carpet consisting of textile yarns or fibres, cut or looped, projecting from the substrate and acting as usesurface. Carved pile: The pile of a carpet that is subjected after manufacture to a shearing operation



The weft which is woven into velveteens and similar fabrics for the purpose of being cut to form a surface pile garments, A textile product in made-ups, which yarn or yarn assemblie segments are s attached intermittently to a backing fabric so as to project above the backing fabric to form a pile



garments, That part of a carpet made-ups, consisting of textile assemblie yarns or fibres, cut or looped, projecting s from the substrate and acting as usesurface.



658 Word



Category



Short description



Description with the object of creating different levels of pile, often on the periphery of certain elements of design formed by the pile. Curled pile: The pile of a carpet, in which curl has been induced by over-twist or by other means. Cut Pile: The pile of a carpet consisting of legs of tufts or individual fibres. Cut-Loop pile: The pile of a carpet, formed during manufacture by loops and tufts of different lengths or of the same length. Loop pile: The pile of a carpet consisting of loops. Also called Uncut Pile. Sculptured pile: A pile in which a pattern is created by having areas of different lengths of pile and/or by omitting pile in certain places. Textured pile: A pile in which the surface character is varied, e.g. by having areas of different characteristics or by combinations of different yarn or pile yarns, e.g. soft and hard twist. Tip-sheared pile: The pile of a carpet, originally consisting of loops of different lengths, which has



659 Word



Category



PILL PILLAR LACE



defects fabrics



PILLAR STITCH



fabrics



PILLING



defects



Short description



Description been subjected after manufacture to a shearing process to cut the tips of the longer pile loops. See Pilling Lace in which two or more threads from warp, beam, or spool, encircled and bound by one bobbin thread.



See Pilling Lace in which two or more threads from warp, beam, or spool, encircled and bound by one bobbin thread. In warp-knitted In warp-knitted materials, a single materials, a single unconnected unconnected continuous column continuous column of knitted loops, formed of knitted loops by knitting consecutive loops on the same needle from the same yarn to give a continuous chain of loops entirely separate and disconnected. Fabric defect. Fabric defect. The formation of small nodules or balls of compacted loose fibre (pills) on the surface of a fabric due to wear. Such pills result from abrasion of the fabric. Their severity is measured by density on the surface, but they may vary in relative strength of attachment, in size and in colour. In the latter, the pills may accumulate fibres from external sources. With woollen knitwear, the pills usually brush off during wear, but with



660 Word



PILLING RESISTANCE



PILLOW CASE



PILLOW LACE PILLOW LINEN



PILLOW TUBING



PILLS



Category



Short description



Description synthetic fibre materials they cling. The tendency to pilling can be reduced by the use of different yarn and cloth structure, by singeing or shearing fibre ends on the cloth surface. Chemical and other preventive methods also have been developed. fabrics Resistance to the Resistance to the formation of pills on formation of pills on a a textile fabric. textile fabric. garments, A removable textile A removable textile covering that is made-ups, covering that is produced or assemblie produced or s fabricated in a tube fabricated in a tube usually closed on usually closed on one end which is used to one end which is encase a bed pillow used to encase a bed pillow fabrics See Bobbin lace. See Bobbin lace. Very smooth, high fabrics Very smooth, high count, plain-weave, count, plain-weave, bleached linen fabric. bleached linen May be cotton fabric. finished to resemble linen. Easily laundered, sheds dirt, cool hand and durable. fabrics A cotton double cloth A cotton double cloth stitched together stitched together only at the selvedges, to only at the selvedges, to form a form a tubular fabric. Woven double in the tubular fabric. form of a tube, using a plain weave. Used for pillow cases. defects Fabric defect. Fabric defect. Bunches or balls of tangled fibres which are held to the surface of a fabric by one or more fibres.



661 Word



Category



Short description



PILOT



fabrics



A woollen fabric, generally made in navy blue and used for seamen’s coarse.



PIMA



fibers, pima cottons are filaments, often loosely used in yarns the trade as a term for any long-staple cotton.



PIN CHECK



fabrics



Worsted suiting fabric made with different coloured yarns, which produce a figured effect the size of a pinhead, and give the appearance of a fine check.



PIN DOT



fabrics



A small dot approximately the size of the head of a pin



PIN LOCK SLIDER



apparatus, In zippers, a slider equipage, that incorporates a tools projection on the pull



Description (Compare Fuzz ball.) A woollen fabric, generally made in navy blue and used for seamen’s coarse. It is usually 2/2 twill weave, heavily milled, with a raised brush finish. A cotton variety which produces extra long staple fibre, but now, pima cottons are often loosely used in the trade as a term for any long-staple cotton. Worsted suiting fabric made with different coloured yarns, which produce a figured effect the size of a pinhead, and give the appearance of a fine check. A cheaper imitation is made from viscose but this not hardwearing. Uses worsted type for men’s suits, women’s skirts. A sturdy cotton cloth in pincheck design is used for men’s work clothing. A small dot approximately the size of the head of a pin; may be woven or printed on sheer fabrics. In zippers, a slider that incorporates a projection on the pull that fits between adjacent interlocking elements of a zipper when a pin lock slider is in the locked



662 Word



Category



Short description



PIN MARK



fabrics



A series of holes near the edge parallel with the lengthwise direction of a fabric



PIN STRIPE



fabrics



Name given to any fabric with very fine pin-width stripes.



PIN TUCK



PIN TWISTING



PIN-DRAFTING



PIÑA-CLOTH



Description position. A series of holes near the edge parallel with the lengthwise direction of a fabric caused by the holding device on a pin tenter frame. See also Clip mark. Name given to any fabric with very fine pin-width stripes. Usually associated with men’s worsted suiting. A small sewn pleat.



garments, A small sewn pleat. made-ups, assemblie s The generation of processes, The generation of false-twist by a device operations false-twist by a in which a yarn is device in which a wrapped around a yarn is wrapped around a small pin or small pin or peg of wear-resistant peg of wear-resistant material (usually, material (usually, sapphire or ceramic) sapphire or ceramic) mounted across a rotating tube through which the yarn passes. One rotation of the tube generates one turn of twist. See also Friction twisting. processes, A system of drafting A system of drafting operations in which the fibres in which the fibres are are oriented relative oriented relative to to one another in the one another in the sliver and are sliver and are controlled by pins. controlled by pins. Any system of drafting, e.g. ‘gilling’, in which the movement of the fibres relative to one another in a sliver is controlled by pins. fabrics Fine plain-woven Fine plain-woven



663 Word



Category



Short description translucent lustrous fabric



PINCORD



fabrics



Very fine needlecord fabric.



PINEAPPLE CONE



fibers, A low angled yarn filaments, package in which the yarns traverse length decreases as the diameter increases.



PINEAPPLE FIBRE



fibers, A fibre from the leaf filaments, of the plant ‘ananas yarns cosmosus’, capable of being processed into fine fabrics.



PINEAPPLE STITCH



general



PINHOLE



defects



A knitting stitch which produces an oval pattern. Fabric defect in woven fabric. A very small hole, approximately the size of the cross section of a pin.



Description translucent lustrous fabric made of yarns produced from fibres of the leaves of the pineapple tree. Is a stiff, wiry fabric and makes a good base for embroidery. Very fine needlecord fabric. See under Corduroy. A low angled yarn package in which the traverse length decreases as the diameter increases. It is used mainly for continuous filament yarns in order to produce a more stable package. A fibre from the leaf of the plant ‘ananas cosmosus’, capable of being processed into fine fabrics. The fibres are fine, white, lustrous, and strong. A knitting stitch which produces an oval pattern. 1.Fabric defect in woven fabric. A very small hole, approximately the size of the cross section of a pin. Pinholes along selvage are caused usually by the pins holding the fabric while processing through tenter/stenter frame. Major or minor depending on how far the pin holes extend into the body of the fabric.



664 Word



Category



Short description



PINKED SEAM-FINISH



general



A finish for the raw edges of the seam allowances of a plain seam, which produces a zigzagged cut raw edge.



PINKING



fabrics



Gimping or serrating an edge in the form of V-shaped cuts by a machine or handshears normally having a serrated blade.



PINNING



processes, An old style of textile operations printing, known in French as Picotage.



PINSONIC QUILTING



processes, A method of quilting operations fabrics without thread using



Description 2. Fabric defect in hosiery. Also called Cat eye, Cross stitch, Duck eye, Fish eye, Snag, Spread stitch. Very small holes in hosiery. A finish for the raw edges of the seam allowances of a plain seam, which produces a zigzagged cut raw edge. A pinked seam-finish is made by trimming, with pinking shears, close to the raw seam allowance edge. (Compare Stitched and pinked seam finish.) Gimping or serrating an edge in the form of V-shaped cuts by a machine or handshears normally having a serrated blade. The operation is undertaken primarily to prevent fraying and achieves a decorative raw edge. An old style of textile printing, known in French as Picotage. A series of brass pins are driven into the surface of the block which is then used to produce a pattern, either as a background or as shadowy shapes of such things as leaves A method of quilting fabrics without thread using ultrasonic



665 Word



Category



Short description ultrasonic sound.



PINWALE



fabrics



A very narrow pile or rib in a fabric (from 16 to 23 wales to the inch)



PINWORK



processes, Fine raised stitches operations in needlepoint lace,



PIPING



accessorie A narrow fabric or s cord used to finish raw edges on material



PIQUÈ



fabrics



WARP KNITTED. A fabric, normally made with two guide bars, that shows pronounced cord effects in the warp direction.



Description sound. The face, batting and backing are thermally welded when they pass between a pattern roll and the ultrasonic heads. A very narrow pile or rib in a fabric (from 16 to 23 wales to the inch); e.g. ‘pinwale corduroy’. Fine raised stitches in needlepoint lace, which produce an effect of lightness. A narrow fabric or cord used to finish raw edges on material or for decorative purposes in finishing by dressmakers. 1. WARP KNITTED. A fabric, normally made with two guide bars, that shows pronounced cord effects in the warp direction. The portions between the cords are made by omitting one or more threads from the guide bar that is making the small underlap. 2. WEFT KNITTED. See Single piqué, Double piqué, and Texi piqué. 3. WOVEN. A fabric showing rounded cords in the weft direction, with pronounced sunken lines between them that are produced by



666 Word



Category



PIQUETTE



fabrics



PIRN



apparatus, equipage, tools



PIRN WINDING



processes, operations fabrics, garments, made-ups, assemblie s



PITCH



Short description



Description the nature of the weave. The weave on the face of the cords is plain. There are warp floats the width of the cords in the back. Wadding picks are used to accentuate the prominence of the cords. When the cords are in straight lines across the fabric, the structure is known as welt and when they create waved lines it is known also as ‘waffle piqué’ or Marcella. The term piqué is also applied to a much less expensive white fabric made in a lightweight Bedford cord. Weft-knitted fabric. Weft-knitted fabric. A non-jacquard doublejersey fabric made on an interlock basis consisting of a selection of knitted and float loops. Also called Quill. Also called Quill. A weft package which is inserted into a shuttle of a loom. Weft yarn is wound on pirn, using a pirn winder The winding of yarns The winding of yarns on pirns (quills). on pirns (quills). 1. In weaving, the In weaving, the distance between distance between two yarns or other two yarns or other components. components. 2. The up and down movement of a shuttle during transit across the loom.



667 Word



PITCH PINS



PITCHES



Category



Short description



apparatus, See Pitches. equipage, tools apparatus, In printing, fine metal equipage, pins driven into the tools corners of a printing block for the purpose of establishing the correct repeat.



PITCHING



processes, In engraved roller operations printing, ensuring the correct repeat, by putting each roller in correct position while the machine is running slowly



PLACKET



garments, An opening provided made-ups, in a garment to assemblie facilitate removal by s the wearer, or an extra piece of fabric applied to that opening for reinforcement or as a style feature.



PLAID



fabrics



The word plaid was originally used by for the Scottish tartan worn by Highland women.



Description 3. The balanced insertion of the sleeve into the garment controlled by balance marks in the scye line. See Pitches.



In printing, fine metal pins driven into the corners of a printing block for the purpose of establishing the correct repeat. Same as Pitch pins. In engraved roller printing, ensuring the correct repeat, by putting each roller in correct position while the machine is running slowly. Also known as registering or putting in register. An opening provided in a garment to facilitate removal by the wearer, or an extra piece of fabric applied to that opening for reinforcement or as a style feature. The placket may incorporate fastenings. The word plaid was originally used by for the Scottish tartan worn by Highland women. Patterns of different coloured bars crossing each other to form varied squares or rectangles. Usually the pattern is woven



668 Word



Category



Short description



PLAID BACK



fabrics



A light, medium or heavy material for over-coatng made on the double-cloth principle; two systems of warp and weft, with a binder warp or weft arrangement.



PLAIN BACK



fabrics



PLAIN BRAID



PLAIN EDGE



PLAIN FABRIC, WEFTKNITTED



A twill-face plain weave back structure made from single worsted yarns. accessorie Also called Diamond s braid.



garments, Finished edge of a made-ups, garment that shows assemblie no stitching on the s surface. fabrics



A fabric in which all the component knitted loops are of the same sort and meshed in the same



Description from dyed yarns, but it also may be printed A light, medium or heavy material for over-coatng made on the double-cloth principle; two systems of warp and weft, with a binder warp or weft arrangement. The underside of the cloth is a plaid; a series of cross stripes that form a dull or vivid effect. Weight, warmth, and the covering up of the interlacings are features of the material. Plaid backs take the place of linings in some cloths used for coating material. A twill-face plain weave back structure made from single worsted yarns. Also called Diamond braid. In rope, a braided construction in which one strand of one direction of rotation about the axis of the rope passes over one strand of the opposite direction. Finished edge of a garment that shows no stitching on the surface. A blind or filling stitch is used. A fabric in which all the component knitted loops are of the same sort and meshed in the same



669 Word



Category



PLAIN FINISH PLAIN FINISH



fabrics



PLAIN GOODS



PLAIN KNIT PLAIN LOOM



Short description manner.



A cotton fabric that has not been mercerised. fabrics Standard construction, plain weave grey goods. fabrics Synonym for flat knit fabric. apparatus, A loom which equipage, operates with a cam tools motion, rather than a dobby or Jacquard mechanism, to create the weave



Description manner. The fabric may also be described as plain, single jersey, web, or stockinette. The appearance may be described with reference to the surface of the structure. 1. FACE OR TECHNICAL FACE: The surface of a plain weft-knitted fabric that consists wholly of the face loops. 2. BACK OR TECHNICAL BACK: The surface of a plain weft-knitted fabric that consists wholly of back loops. 3. EFFECT SIDE: The surface of the fabric intended to be used outermost on a garment or other construction. 4. REVERSE SIDE: The surface opposite to the effect side A cotton fabric that has not been mercerised. Standard construction, plain weave grey goods. Synonym for flat knit fabric. See Flat knit A loom which operates with a cam motion, rather than a dobby or Jacquard mechanism, to create the weave. It is capable of weaving a plain weave or a simple twill



670 Word PLAIN LOOP PLAIN NET



PLAIN NET MACHINE



PLAIN SEAM



PLAIN SELVEDGE



PLAIN STITCH



Category Short description Description fabrics See Face loop under See Face loop under Knitted loop. Knitted loop. A twist lace fabric fabrics A twist lace fabric made with equal made with equal numbers of warp and numbers of warp and bobbin threads. The bobbin threads warp threads run lengthwise in the fabric. The bobbin threads twist round the warp threads and traverse diagonally in the fabric. Equal numbers of bobbin threads are always traversing in opposite directions. A fine plain net made from silk is sometimes called as Tulle. apparatus, See under Lace See under Lace equipage, machines. machines. tools general A seam formed by a A seam formed by a single joining line single joining line. A plain seam joins two or more layers of fabric; multiple layers of fabric may be treated as a single layer. Raw edges of the seam allowance in a plain seam may or may not have a finish applied. fabrics Plain selvedges are Plain selvedges are woven with extra woven with extra warp ends for warp ends for additional strength additional strength and in the same and in the same weave as the body weave as the body of cloth. This selvedge of cloth is also defined as ‘wire selvedge’. general A knitting stitch A knitting stitch which which produces a produces a series of series of wales or wales or lengthwise lengthwise ribs on ribs on the face of the



671 Word



Category



PLAIN WEAVE



fabrics



Short description Description the face of the fabric fabric and courses, or and courses, or cross-wise loops, on cross-wise loops, on the back, all the loops the back are drawn through others to the same side of the fabric. Also called Tabby. Also called Tabby. One of the three One of the three basic types of weave, basic types of weave, the other two the other two being Twill, and Satin. Plain being Twill, and Satin. Plain weave is weave is the simplest of all weave the simplest of all interlacings. weave interlacings. A fabric pattern in which each yarn of the weft passes alternately over and under a yarn of warp and each yarn of the warp passes alternately over and under a yarn of the weft. A weave in which half the ends pass over one pick and the other half pass under, then the action is reversed on the next pick. The adjacent ends and picks interlace differently. This very simple interlacing system cannot be widely varied and most of the variety in plain weave fabrics is produced by using different thickness, textures, and varying closeness of warp and weft yarns. Plain weave Quite a few of the basic fabrics are plain weave fabrics but



672 Word



Category



Short description



Description they are individually different in appearance and texture. If colour is combined with the interlacings by the use of differently coloured warp and weft yarns textural interest can be increased and a visual effect produced which does not resemble either the weave itself or the order of colouring. In the three diagrams A, B, and C, below, show how the appearance of a plain weave fabric can be changed by the use of colour. In diagram ‘A’ the plain weave has been coloured black in warp and white in the weft. The plain interlacing mixes these colours evenly and would give a grey colour from a distance which would become coarser in grain as the eye began to perceive the actual interlacings. When two colours are used in this way the combination of them appears to vary as the fabric is moved or draped because of different direction of warp and weft. When lustrous coloured yarns are used in this way a shimmering variable effect is seen



673 Word



Category



Short description



Description known as ‘shot effect’. In diagram B the dark and light colours are still evenly divided between warp and weft but they are now used in alternate yarns in warp and weft. This is seen to produce fine vertical hairline stripes of colour and the weave interlacings cannot be perceived as a separate factor and no horizontal colour effect is seen even though the weft yarns are coloured alternately dark and light. In diagram C the same two colours are used in warp and weft in the same proportions but now in pairs. This creates a totally different colour effect in the form of a small neat check which again dominates the weave and gives no indication of the order of colouring. Rib weave: It is a plain weave variation. 2/2 RIB The rib weave produces regular horizontal lines across the fabric. In this the 1 and 1 plain interlacing has been increased to 2 in warp direction.



674 Word



Category



Short description



Description Cord weave: This is a plain weave variation. 2/2 CORD The cord weave produces lines down the fabric. In this the 1 and 1 plain interlacing has been increased to 2 in weft direction. Hopsack weave: It is a plain weave variation.



PLAIN WEFT KNITTED FABRIC



PLAIT



PLAITED ROPE



fabrics



2/2 HOPSACK The hopsack weave is simply a plain weave doubled; i.e. the yarns interlace in pairs. This gives a coarser grain of appearance than plain weave but a softer fabric, because the interlacings are not as tight as plain weave. In this the 1 and 1 plain interlacing has been increased to 2 and 2 in both directions The simplest construction of weft knitting in which the loops are all of one sort, open loops, and are all intermeshed in the same manner 1. The intersection of the strands of a braid. 2. See Braid



The simplest construction of weft knitting in which the loops are all of one sort, open loops, and are all intermeshed in the same manner garments, The intersection of the strands of a made-ups, braid. assemblie s garments, Also called EightAlso called Eightmade-ups, strand rope. strand rope. Rope assemblie made from eight s strands arranged in



675 Word



Category



PLAITED STITCH



general



PLANKING



Short description



A herringbone effect produced in needlework processes, In hat manufacture, operations acid milling of settled forms by the combined action of hot sulphuric acid and mechanical treatment to produce a cone-shaped felt known as a hood or body.



PLANTAIN



fibers, filaments, yarns



The textile fibre derived from Musa sapientum, also known as banana fibre.



PLANTED COLOURS



processes, operations



Spacing spools of surface yarns, in



Description four pairs in which one strand is placed adjacent to a second in each pair and in which each strand of each pair has been twisted in one direction while each strand in each alternate pair has been twisted in the opposite direction and the four pairs of strands are intertwined by maypole fashion in a manner such that each pair of strands passes over and under adjacent pair of strands. See also Rope. A herringbone effect produced in needlework In hat manufacture, acid milling of settled forms by the combined action of hot sulphuric acid and mechanical treatment to produce a coneshaped felt known as a hood or body. Sometimes called Bumping. 1. The textile fibre derived from Musa sapientum, also known as banana fibre. 2. A strong, bast fibre obtained from the plane tree Platanus orientalis. Used for cordage and mats Spacing spools of surface yarns, in



676 Word



Category



Short description different colours, at the back of the Jacquard loom.



PLANTING



processes, operations



A process in weaving fabrics in which the pattern is developed by extra warp threads.



PLASTIC



PLASTIC FILM



general, Something that can fibers, be shaped, extended or moulded. filaments, yarns



fabrics



Flexible, drapeable material in thin gauges.



Description different colours, at the back of the Jacquard loom. The object is to show more colours in the design than would normally show on the carpet’s surface. A process in weaving fabrics in which the pattern is developed by extra warp threads. A large number of warp colours are introduced into the fabric by replacing one colour with another at intervals. Something that can be shaped, extended or moulded. Plastics are of two types: (a) thermoplastics these can be remoulded by heat after formation. The thermoplastic resins can be formed into fibres and then fabricated into textile cloths. (b) thermosetting – these type forms cross links in the final shape and cannot be remelted. 2. Generic term for substances manmade from various chemicals. 3. See also PVC Flexible, drapeable material in thin gauges. It may be polyvinyl chloride, polyethylene, polyvinylidene choride, polystyrene or polypropylene



677 Word



Category



Short description



PLASTIC GOODS



fabrics



Materials made from resins in sheet form, not woven, that may be used for shower curtains, draperies, umbrellas and the like.



PLASTICIZE



PLATED FABRIC



processes, The softening of a operations synthetic material or polymer usually by the addition of a lubricant. fabrics A fabric knitted from two yarns of different properties, both of which are used in the same loop whilst positioned one behind the other.



Description among others. Thicker gauges, more than 10 units, are referred to as sheeting. Materials made from resins in sheet form, not woven, that may be used for shower curtains, draperies, umbrellas and the like. They may be transparent, printed, or dyed in solution. When plastic film is supported by cloth, it is classified as a textile. The softening of a synthetic material or polymer usually by the addition of a lubricant. A fabric knitted from two yarns of different properties, both of which are used in the same loop whilst positioned one behind the other. The special feature of the fabric is that each loop exhibits the characteristics of one yarn on the face side and the characteristics of the other yarn on the reverse side. In plain weft-knitted fabrics, where the loops are all formed in the same direction, the characteristics of one yarn are visible on the surface composed of the face loops whilst the characteristics of



678 Word



Category



Short description



Description the other are only visible on the reverse surface composed of back loops. Types of plated fabric are: Cross-plated fabric: An arrangement of a plated face stitch (knitted on one set of needles) and of an adjacent plated reverse stitch (knitted in the same course on the other set of needles) the relative positions of the face yarn and the back yarn in the face stitch being interchanged in the reverse stitch. Float-plated fabric: The knitting of a plated fabric in which the face yarn is misknitted by certain needles to allow the other yarn to appear in the face. Reverse-plated fabric: A plated knit construction in which the relationship of the two yarns is reversed in certain stitches within the same course to give a patterned or fancy effect. Sandwich-plated fabric: A plated construction usually knitted on one set of needles in which the ground yarn is positioned (sandwiched) within the structure so that it is not visible from either the face or the



679 Word



Category



PLATING



processes, operations



PLEAT



garments, made-ups, assemblie s



PLEATED FABRIC, WARPKNITTED



fabrics



Short description



Description reverse side of the fabric. Embroidery-plated fabric: The superimposing of one or more additional ends of yarn over a restricted but variable width of weft-knitted fabric, so that the loops formed by the additional yarns appear on the face of the fabric. ‘Panel wrap’ and ‘wrap stripe’ are examples of embroidery plating produced in this way. The action of The action of producing plated producing plated fabric. fabric. Three layers of fabric Three layers of fabric involving two folds or involving two folds or reversals of reversals of direction; direction; the back the back fold may be fold may be replaced replaced by a seam. by a seam. Material folds introduced to allow for expansion or to provide style features. Pleats may be either pressed to give sharp creases or left unpressed to give soft folds A fabric produced A fabric produced from two or three from two or three guide bars in which guide bars in which the front warp is the front warp is stopped while the stopped while the front bar mis-laps. front bar mis-laps. The fabric produced by the back bar (or back and middle bars) while the front bar mis-laps is raised out of the plane of the fabric in the form of a



680 Word



PLEATING



PLIED YARN



PLIED YARN DUCK



PLISSÉ



Category



Short description



Description pleat extending across the complete width. All bars are full-set threaded. The process of processes, The process of operations making one or more making one or more desirable folds in a desirable folds in a cloth by doubling the cloth by doubling the material over on material over on itself. itself. fibers, Also called Folded Also called Folded filaments, yarn and Formed yarn and Formed yarns yarn. yarn. A yarn formed by twisting together two or more single yarns in one operation. See also Cord. Duck fabric with plied fabrics Duck fabric with yarns in warp and plied yarns in warp weft; army, and weft; army, numbered, and numbered, and special use ducks. special use ducks. See also Duck Originally a term fabrics Originally a term describing a fabric describing a fabric woven in a special woven in a special weave, which weave, which produced pleats or produced pleats or folds in the fabric. folds in the fabric. The term now refers to a crinkle effect produced on cotton fabrics by printing a stripe or other pattern in caustic soda paste which causes puckering of the treated parts of the fabric, or in synthetic fibres by the use of differential heat shrinkage. Some fabric consists of alternating wrinkled and plain stripes, often in different colours. Fibre content



681 Word



Category



Short description



PLUCKED WOOL



fibers, filaments, yarns



A pulled wool obtained from a sheep carcass several days old.



PLUGGING



PLUMAGE



PLUMULES



Description is usually polyester with cotton. Caustic soda is applied to specific sections, causing bubbles to form in the fabric. This is a semipermanent finish, which is liable to lessen with constant washing and particularly with ironing. It is a soft cool summer fabric and is used for casual blouses and skirts, beachwear and children’s clothes. These methods produce cheaper and more varied crinkle effects than traditional methods such as seersucker. Sometimes called Crinkle crêpe. A pulled wool obtained from a sheep carcass several days old. Applied in a broader sense to all pulled wool. Fastening decorative buttons by inserting a plug through the eyes of the shanks on the inside of the garment



garments, Fastening decorative made-ups, buttons by inserting assemblie a plug through the s eyes of the shanks on the inside of the garment The outgrowth of fibers, The outgrowth of fowl, consisting of filaments, fowl, consisting of feathers and down yarns feathers and down (waterfowl) or (waterfowl) or feathers only (nonfeathers only (nonwaterfowl). waterfowl). fibers, Downy waterfowl Downy waterfowl filaments, plumage plumage with yarns underdeveloped soft



682 Word



PLUS X



PLUSH



Category



Short description



processes, A patented process operations for imparting stretch to all-wool and woolblend cloths.



fabrics



WOVEN. A pile fabric, with a longer and less dense pile than that of velvet.



Description and flaccid quill with barbs indistinguishable from those of down A patented process for imparting stretch to all-wool and woolblend cloths. The process puts a permanent crimp into a fabric before it is dyed and finished. 1. WOVEN. A pile fabric, with a longer and less dense pile than that of velvet. The yarns can be almost any, natural or synthetic. Many of the fabrics are now washable. Made in various weights for dresses, curtains, drapes and upholstery. 2. WARP-KNITTED. A fabric in which one series of threads form pile loops standing at approximately 90° to the fabric plane, being connected to the ground construction by knitting-in or laying-in. The pile loop may be cut or uncut. 3. DOUBLE WARP KNITTED. A pile fabric produced on a double needle-bar Raschel warp-knitting machine, by knitting separate ground fabrics on each needle bar and connecting them by pile threads which knit on both needle



683 Word



PLY



PLY WEAVE



POCKET



Category



Short description



YARN. The fibers, filaments, individual yarn in a plied yarn or in a yarns, cord. fabrics, processes, operations , accessorie s



fabrics



Any fabric constructed with more than one set of warp and weft yarns



garments, IN GARMENT. A made-ups, bag inserted into or



Description bars so that two fabrics are produced face to face. The fabrics are then separated to produce two cut pile fabrics. 4 WEFT-KNITTED. A knitted fabric made with a looped pile showing on the reverse side of some or all stitches. The plush loops are elongated sinker loops of the yarn lying at the back of a plated fabric. It is sometimes known as knitted terry 1. YARN. The individual yarn in a plied yarn or in a cord. The number of plies in a plied yarn or in a cord is the number of yarns, which are twisted together to form the plied yarn or the cord. 2. FABRIC. A single thickness of fabric in a lay or seam. The number of plies in an assembly is the number of fabric thickness. 3. See under Tyre textiles. 4. See Fold. Any fabric constructed with more than one set of warp and weft yarns, e.g. cotton harness webbing, and chinchilla. 1. IN GARMENT. A bag inserted into or



684 Word



POCKET BAG



POCKET DRILL



POCKETING SEW-IN POIL



POILE



POINT



POINT BLANKET POINT BONDING



Category Short description Description assemblie attached to a attached to a s, garment, for practical garment, for practical apparatus, or decorative use. or decorative use. equipage, Pockets may have tools flaps, jettings or welts. 2. IN ZIPPERS. The cavity of an element designed to receive the head. garments, The part of a pocket The part of a pocket made-ups, on the interior of a on the interior of a assemblie garment. garment. s fabrics A stout, unbleached A stout, unbleached cotton drill used for cotton drill used for pockets pockets accessorie See under Sew-in See under Sew-in s woven interfacing. woven interfacing. fibers, See Poile See Poile filaments, yarns fibers, A raw silk yarn made A raw silk yarn made filaments, of eight to ten of eight to ten singles yarns singles twisted twisted together. together Usually silk of inferior quality is employed. Used as the core of tinsel yarn and some pile and flat silk fabrics. general Ornamental stitching 1. Ornamental on the back of a stitching on the back glove. of a glove. 2. Various stitches used in hand-made lace. fabrics See Hudsons bay. See Hudsons bay. processes, A method of making A method of making operations thermally-bonded thermally-bonded non-woven fabric non-woven fabric, in which heat and pressure are applied to specific areas by the use of embossed calender rollers so as to cause local



685 Word POINT D’ESPRIT



POINT DRAW POINT NET



POINT-LACE



POINT-PAPER DESIGN



POIRET TWILL



POLISHED COTTON



Category



Short description



Description bonding. fabrics any lightweight fabric Usually describes net fabric that has such as voile that is decorated with satin embroidered spots or squares on the stitched spots. Usually polyesters surface, but the term is often used in relation to any lightweight fabric such as voile that is decorated with satin stitched spots. Usually polyesters. Used for dresses, wedding gowns, etc. processes, See Angled draft See Angled draft operations fabrics A net ground made A net ground made with the needle, i.e. with the needle, i.e. needlepoint net needlepoint net ground. ground. fabrics A knitted form of lace A knitted form of lace or openwork fabric or openwork fabric made on a hand frame using loop transfer techniques. The representation on accessorie The representation design paper (point s on design paper (point paper) of the paper) of the order of interlacing the order of interlacing threads in a woven the threads in a fabric. woven fabric. fabrics Named after Poiret, Named after Poiret, the French designer. the French designer. Is a firm, twilled worsted material, but its twill is pronounced, like gabardine, and steeply angled. Is not much used now but is an excellent tailoring cloth. fabrics Plain weave cotton Plain weave cotton fabric, often fabric, often inexpensive, that has inexpensive, that has been calendered to been calendered to give it an attractive give it an attractive



686 Word



Category



Short description shine.



POLISHED YARN



fibers, A cotton yarn which filaments, has been treated yarns with a starch, gelatine, etc., and then passed over rollers or other devices to smoothen and make glossy finishing material.



POLISHING



processes, FABRICS. The operations treatment of tanned skins, or of fabrics, particularly pile fabrics, to increase lustre



POLKA DOTS



fabrics



Round dots, embroidered, printed or flocked, of any size forming a



Description shine. The calendering does not survive laundering, so garments have to be starched, unless a resin permanent finish is added. Many weights of cotton may be polished and used for curtains, loose covers, dresses, etc A cotton yarn which has been treated with a starch, gelatine, etc., and then passed over rollers or other devices to smoothen and make glossy finishing material. Twine and sewing thread also may be polished. 1. FABRICS. The treatment of tanned skins, or of fabrics, particularly pile fabrics, to increase lustre by mechanical means, without compressing the material. 2. YARNS. Operations for conferring on yarns a relatively high degree of smoothness of surface. Application of a size coating to a yarn promotes smoothness of surface, and in fibrous yarns helps to lay protruding fibres in one direction. Round dots, embroidered, printed or flocked, of any size forming a surface



687 Word



Category



POLKA GAUZE



fabrics



POLKA RIB



fabrics



POLO CLOTH



fabrics



POLO COLLAR



garments, made-ups, assemblie s



POLYACRYLONITRILE FIBRE



fibers, filaments, yarns



POLYAMIDE FIBRE



fibers, filaments, yarns



Short description surface pattern.



Description pattern. If very large, they are called ‘Coin dots’. A cotton gauze fabric A cotton gauze fabric ornamented by small ornamented by small spots introduced in spots introduced in swivel weaving. swivel weaving. Also called Full Also called Full cardigan rib. cardigan rib. Knitted, 1x1 rib fabric, every stitch of which consists of a held loop and a tuck loop Name given to top Name given to top quality highly napped quality highly napped fabric that is made fabric that is made into sportswear and into sportswear and polo caps and coats, polo caps and coats, jackets, etc., for jackets, etc., for spectators. Mainly spectators. produced in expensive-looking shades of brown. Made from wool, it may be woven or knitted in construction A variation of the A variation of the round neck collar on round neck collar on a jumper a jumper, that extends well up the neck and is turned over or doubled on the outside. Fibre spun from Fibre spun from polymers or polymers or copolymers of copolymers of acrylonitrile. acrylonitrile. This is subdivided into two classes, depending upon the proportion of acrylonitrile in the polymer; Acrylic and Modacrylic. manufactured nylon Although, chemically filament yarn. strictly not true, because other manufactured fibres also come under this



688 Word



POLYAMIDE NATURAL FIBRE



POLYAMIDE TREATMENT



Category



Short description



fibers, Silk, wool, and other filaments, animal fibres are yarns examples of natural fibres consisting of polymers containing the repeating group CO-NH-. processes, An interfacial operations polymerisation of polyamide resin on the surface of wool fibres.



POLYCARBAMIDE FIBRE



fibers, A manufactured fibre filaments, composed of yarns synthetic linear macromolecules



POLYCHLAL FIBRE



fibers, Bi-component manfilaments, made polyvinyl yarns alcohol and polyvinyl chloride fibre.



Description heading, polyamide has come to be accepted as the word referring to manufactured nylon filament yarn. See Nylon fibres. Silk, wool, and other animal fibres are examples of natural fibres consisting of polymers containing the repeating group CO-NH-. An interfacial polymerisation of polyamide resin on the surface of wool fibres. The treatment controls shrinkage of woollens. A manufactured fibre composed of synthetic linear macromolecules having in the chain recurring aliphatic groups joined by ureylene groups which together comprise at least 85 % (by mass) of the chain. Same as Polyurea fibre Bi-component manmade polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinyl chloride fibre. It is made by grafting some vinyl chloride to the polyvinyl alcohol. The fibre is emulsion spun into staple and tow. Used for blankets, carpets, curtains, bedding, upholstery, formed fabrics, papermaking,



689 Word POLYCHROMATIC PRINTINGF



POLYESTER CHIFFON POLYESTER COTTON



Category



Short description



Description etc. processes, A process of A process of squirting operations squirting dyes on a dyes on a continuous continuous width of width of cloth. The cloth. movement of various jets controls the design. Also called Jet printing. fabrics See Chiffon. See Chiffon. The correct term The correct term fibers, filaments, should be polyester should be polyester and cotton. and cotton. The two yarns, fibres are mixed in fabrics varying percentages according to the weight and type of fabric produced. Polyester and cotton mixtures can be made into any weight of fabric from Coile to Gabardine, but for the purposes of identification in this section these notes refer only to the medium-weight fabric that resembles a plain-weave all cotton material. The advantage over 100 % cotton is that the polyester reduces creasing and provides good draping qualities. It also makes the fabric even more hardwearing. It may be plain or printed or woven in patterns. Used for blouses, shirts, nightwear, and children’s clothes. Lends itself to tucks, gathers, soft styles and plain styles. During washing dirt



690 Word



Category



Short description



POLYESTER CRÊPE



fabrics



Soft synthetic crèpe in a wide range of plain colours, which has largely replaced other types for blouses, dresses, evening wear, lounging pajamas, negligèes



POLYESTER FIBRE



fibers, A manufactured fibre filaments, in which the fibre yarns forming substance is any long-chain synthetic polymer composed of at least 85 % by weight of an ester of a substituted aromatic carboxylic acid, including but not restricted to substituted terephthalate units and para substituted hydroxy-benzoate units.



Description comes out easily. Soft synthetic crèpe in a wide range of plain colours, which has largely replaced other types for blouses, dresses, evening wear, lounging pajamas, negligèes. Hardwearing, does not lose its shape and is reasonably priced. A manufactured fibre in which the fibre forming substance is any long-chain synthetic polymer composed of at least 85 % by weight of an ester of a substituted aromatic carboxylic acid, including but not restricted to substituted terephthalate units and para substituted hydroxy-benzoate units. Polyester, the manmade fibre, has many similarities in appearance and general properties, to nylon. Polyester is strong, elastic and tough. Can be heatset and has good chemical properties. Has excellent drip-dry properties, being even less absorbent than nylon. It melts at slightly higher temperature than nylon but its sensitivity to heat in use is similar. Used alone or blended with



691 Word



Category



Short description



POLYESTER GEORGETTE POLYESTER HONAN



fabrics fabrics



See Georgette. Fine-textured fabric with a silky finish and a slub yarn across it



POLYESTER JERSEY



fabrics



Close plain knit fabrics often printed, in various weights



Description other fibres. Polyester has a more pleasant handle and a rather less ‘glassy’ appearance than nylon, in an ordinary filament state. This has led to the use of polyester staple being preferred to nylon for blending with wool. Polyester gives extra strength and abrasion resistance to the fabric, in the way that nylon would. In uses, where the extra given by a higher initial resistance to stretch is desirable, polyester would be preferred. Its high resistance to degradation by the action of daylight makes it suitable for curtain net and other materials for out of door uses. It is not regarded as being dangerously flammable; melts when ignited and the flame tends to go out when the molten portion drops away. See Georgette. Fine-textured fabric with a silky finish and a slub yarn across it. Resembles a heavy georgette but is softer to the touch. Used for full styles; blouses and dresses. Close plain knit fabrics often printed, in various weights



692 Word



Category



POLYESTER SATIN



fabrics



POLYESTER SHEER



fabrics



POLYESTER VOILE



fabrics



Short description Description from very thin to from very thin to fairly fairly heavy. heavy. The lightweight fabrics drape well and are soft, slippery and shiny, although those made from spun polyester are matt. These fabrics often cause static problems which may be lessened by using fabric softener occasionally. Used for dresses, robes, evening clothes, light suits. Fabrics do not crease. A satin fabric that A satin fabric that creases very little, creases very little, due to its fibre due to its fibre content, and is soft content, and is soft and comfortable to and comfortable to wear and drapes wear and drapes well. It is made in various well. weights suitable for lingerie, blouses and eveningwear. It has less lustre than satins made from shiny fibres such as silk or acetate. See Satin. Firm, vision net used Firm, vision net used for curtains for curtains. Fibres vary but polyester is mainly used because it does not lose its colour. Fibre combinations include polyester and silk, and polyester, acrylic and nylon. Very fine polyester Very fine polyester curtain fabric net curtain fabric net made in various made in various widths. It is soft, widths. drapes well and keeps its colour



693 Word POLYETHYLENE



Category fibers, filaments, yarns, fabrics



Short description Polyethylene, often termed in the shortened form ‘polythene’ is spun from polymers or copolymers of ethylene.



Description Polyethylene, often termed in the shortened form ‘polythene’ is spun from polymers or copolymers of ethylene. Filaments are hot-melt extruded and contain colouring matter if so desired. Characterised by very good strength, high abrasion resistance and low water absorbency It is one of the polymers used for adhesives on fusible interlinings, and because of its very good performance during washing, it is the main adhesive for shirt collars and cuffs, applied either as high density or low density, the former having the greatest resistance to dry cleaning and commercial laundering. It has low softening point, high shrinkage, low stiffness, poor creep characteristics, and an inability to take dyes. These and other shortcomings have restricted its use to only specialised non-apparel applications. Used in thin sheet form for transparent bags to protect garments. But it is not produced as a fibre for weaving or knitting



694 Word



Category



Short description



POLYISOPRENE



fibers, filaments, yarns fibers, filaments, yarns



See Elastodiene fibre



POLYMER TAPE



POLYMERISATION



Description clothing textiles, although in coarse high denier filaments it is woven into deck chair canvas and similar hardwearing fabrics. However, as non-woven fabric, made directly from the filaments by the spun-bonded system, it has become an important type of fabric for hospital and clean air clothing. It can be successfully printed in colourful patterns for promotional garments or the fibre can be coloured during extrusion. See also Polyolefin fibres. See Elastodiene fibre



A tape of synthetic A tape of synthetic polymer in polymer in unfibrillated form, unfibrillated form, that may be used in textile production in that form or converted into a fibrillated-film yarn. processes, The chemical union 1. The chemical union of two or more operations of two or more molecules of the molecules of the same compound to same compound to form larger molecules form larger of the same molecules of the same compound. compound. See also Addition polymerisation and Condensation polymerisation. 2. In screen printing, the emulsion coating (with added hardener) is baked, or ‘cured’, to



695 Word



POLYNOSIC



POLYOLEFIN FIBRE



Category



Short description



fibers, A type of filaments, regenerated yarns cellulose fibre that is characterised by a high initial wet modulus of elasticity and a relatively low degree of swelling in sodium hydroxide solution.



fibers, filaments, yarns



A manufactured fibre, often termed simply ‘olefin’



Description bring about polymerisation - after exposing and developing - as it greatly extends the life of the patterned print screen A type of regenerated cellulose fibre that is characterised by a high initial wet modulus of elasticity and a relatively low degree of swelling in sodium hydroxide solution. In practise the term ‘HWM’ is commonly used to describe a broad range of regenerated cellulose fibres. The term ‘polynosic’ is used for those with the highest wet modulus. The properties are similar to cotton, but the fibre is softer, It is more difficult to dye than cotton. Often mixed with cotton and other fibres. See Modal A manufactured fibre, often termed simply ‘olefin’, in which the fibre forming substance is any long chain synthetic polymer composed of at least 85 % by weight of ethylene, propylene, or other olefin units, except amorphous (noncrystaline) polyolefins qualifying under Rubber, 1. Polyethylene and polypropylene come



696 Word



POLYPROPYLENE FIBRES



Category



Short description



Description under the polyolefin group. See Polyethylene and Polypropylene fibers, Made from polymers Made from polymers or copolymers of filaments, or copolymers of propylene. yarns propylene. Characterised by Characterised by very very good strength, good strength, high abrasion resistance high abrasion and almost total nonresistance and almost total non- absorbency of liquids. Very light, have low absorbency of thermal conductivity, liquids. good abrasion resistance and nonstaining properties. As a textile fibre its main end-use is in sports clothing and thermal clothing. As the fibre has virtually nil moisture regain facility, the body’s water vapour cannot be absorbed by the fabric. When polypropyene is worn next to the skin, as the first layer and when an absorbent layer is worn over the polypropylene garment, the moisture is ‘wicked’ away into absorbent layer and the skin is kept dry. It can be used in tufted, woven or nonwoven form. Deep pile garments and blankets make good use of its low thermal conductivity and lightness. Its resistance to acids and alkalis makes it suitable for the workwear.



697 Word



Category



Short description



POLYSTYRENE FIBRE



fibers, A manufactured fibre filaments, made from a yarns synthetic linear polymer styrene. POLYTETRAFLUOROETHYLE fibers, Fibres spun from NE filaments, polymers of yarns tetrafluoroethylene.



POLYTHENE



POLYUREA FIBRE



POLYURETHANE



fibers, Polyethylene is often filaments, termed in the yarns shortened form ‘polythene’



Description The fibre blends well with other fibres such as cotton and wool and it can be crimped without difficulty. It can be printed on the finished fabric surface but as the softening temperature is comparatively low, ironing of any type is not recommended and therefore transfer printing only can be undertaken at low temperatures, which reduce the colour fastness of the prints. See Polyolefin fibres. A manufactured fibre made from a synthetic linear polymer styrene. Fibres spun from polymers of tetrafluoroethylene. Also called ‘PTFE fibre’. See also Fluorofibre. Polyethylene is often termed in the shortened form ‘polythene’. See Polyethylene See Polycarbamide fibre.



fibers, See Polycarbamide filaments, fibre. yarns fibers, A manufactured fibre A manufactured fibre filaments, composed of composed of yarns synthetic linear synthetic linear macromolecules macromolecules having in the chain recurring aliphatic groups joined via urethane groups which together comprise at least 85 % (by mass) of the



698 Word



Category



Short description



POLYVINYL ALCOHOL FIBRE



fibers, filaments, yarns fibers, filaments, yarns



See Vinal and Vinylal fibre.



POLYVINYL CHLORIDE



Description chain. The segmented polyurethane fibres are all characterised by the high extension and snap-back recovery associated with rubber-like elasticity. See Elastane and Spandex See Vinal and Vinylal fibre.



Also called PVC. A Also called PVC. A type of chemically type of chemically produced produced thermoplastic thermoplastic chlorofibre, spun chlorofibre, spun from polymers or from polymers or copolymers of copolymers of vinylidene chloride. vinylidene chloride. PVC has many properties of synthetic fibres, but it has no absorbency. It is very heat sensitive, shrinks in boilinig water and softens even with a cool iron. These properties make it unsuitable for general apparel, unless it is heatstabilised. The principal clothing use is for thermal wear, consisting of nearly every type of garment from underwear to outer coats. The main advantage of the fibre is its tendency to generate a negative electrostatic charge. PVC fibres generate negative electricity by friction with the skin,



699 Word



Category



Short description



POLYVINYL CHLORIDE FABRIC



garments, made-ups, assemblie s



Most fabrics referred to as PVC fabric, are base fabrics, such as plain knitting or plain or printed cottons that have been sprayed with coloured or colourless polyvinyl chloride.



POLYVINYLIDENE CHLORIDE fibers, A type of chlorofibre. FIBRE (PVDC) filaments, yarns POLYVOLTINE SILK fibers, Silk produced by a filaments, variety of silk worm yarns producing several generations per year



Description whereas most other fibres develop positive electric charges. It is believed that it creates a barrier of electrostatic air, which increases and maintains body warmth and it is claimed that this negative electricity has therapeutic effects, and is of value in the treatment of rheumatism and similar complaints. See also Chlorofibres and Saran. Most fabrics referred to as PVC fabric, are base fabrics, such as plain knitting or plain or printed cottons that have been sprayed with coloured or colourless polyvinyl chloride. Some are stiff and heavy, some are softer. Used for aprons, protective wear, raincoats, hats, etc., and for curtains. Upholstery fabric is made from expanded vinyl and a knitted backing cloth. A type of chlorofibre. See Chlorofibre. See also Saran. Silk produced by a variety of silk worm producing several generations per year, more commonly found in the tropics. Also called ‘multivoltine silk



700 Word POMPON



Category



Short description



accessorie A ball pendant made s of any fibre in a chenille effect, i.e. with the threads radiating from the centre.



PONCHO



fabrics



A cotton or woollen fabric made with a plain twill or rep weave with fringes at the ends.



PONGEE



fabrics



Derived from the Chinese penchi, which means woven at home or hand loom.



PONGEE IMPERIAL



fabrics



A rich, lustrous, plain weave pongee silk dress fabric.



Description worm’. A ball pendant made of any fibre in a chenille effect, i.e. with the threads radiating from the centre. Used for trimming curtains, hats, dresses, furniture, etc. when a series of these yarn balls hang from a braid, they are called a ball fringe. A cotton or woollen fabric made with a plain twill or rep weave with fringes at the ends. Often made with a slit in the centre for the head and used for overcoats. Derived from the Chinese penchi, which means woven at home or hand loom. It was originally a light silk fabric of slightly rough feel with excellent draping qualities, but it may now be acetate, triacetate, nylon or other fibres, all resembling the silk fabric in weight and handling. It is in plain weave and may be printed or plain. Used for blouses, soft dresses, nightwear, and plain colours as a lining fabric. All types are slippery. A rich, lustrous, plain weave pongee silk dress fabric.



701 Word PONTE-ROMA PONTIAC



PONY CLOTH



POODLE CLOTH



POOR PENETRATION



Category Short description Description fabrics See Punto di Roma. See Punto di Roma. fabrics A strong, knitted, A strong, knitted, waterproof, woollen waterproof, woollen fabric made in dark fabric made in dark grey. grey. Used for skirts and coats. fabrics A term used for cut- A term used for cutpile fabric made in pile fabric made in imitation of pony imitation of pony skin. skin. fabrics Fabric, medium or Fabric, medium or heavy characterised heavy characterised by loops of yarn on by loops of yarn on the surface. the surface. May be wool, acrylic or other yarns or mixtures. Mohair is also sometimes included. Is in plain colours or random effects. Used for jackets, coats and warm dresses. A thick cloth to sew, but soft and yielding. When heavy or defects When heavy or densely woven densely woven fabrics, or tightly fabrics, or tightly twisted yarn fabrics, twisted yarn fabrics, are piece-dyed, there are piece-dyed, there is some times is some times a lack a lack of penetration of penetration of the of the dye into the dye into the centre of the yarn material. centre of the yarn This condition leaves material. the fibres in the centre of yarn or at fabric interlacing lightly coloured or undyed. Although there is no problem with such fabrics while new, but after a brief period of wear/use they will take on a faded appearance at the abrasion points. For this reason, many



702 Word



Category



POPLIN



fabrics



Short description



Description high quality, heavyweight and densely woven fabrics are yarn-dyed even though they are of solid shades. Fine closely woven Fine closely woven plain weave fabric, plain weave fabric, medium-weight, medium-weight, made from made from mercerised cotton mercerised cotton yarns. yarns. Poplin originated as a ribbed fabric made with a fine silk warp and a worsted wool weft. It creases in wear, although less so if some polyester yarn has been included. It is in plain colours or prints, and is very hardwearing, comfortable and absorbent. Used for men’s shirts, blouses, pajamas, children’s clothes, and dresses. It has a characteristic crosswise fine rib effect and a sheen. The rib effect is developed by a deliberate unbalancing of the fabric structure. The warp yarns are very closely set and the weft yarns are correspondingly opened out so that in a good quality poplin there will be twice as many warp yarns per cm than there are weft yarns. This means that the warp yarns bend round the



703 Word



Category



Short description



Description weft yarns and the latter remain virtually straight. The warp yarn interlacings close up and almost hide the weft and the straight lines of weft produce the characteristic ribs. In good quality poplin warp and weft are of the same thickness and the rib is produced entirely by the imbalance of structure Cheaper types produce the effect by using a thicker weft and a closely set warp. This can make the fabric liable to crack by the sliding of warp yarns sideways over the straight weft. A similar construction principle is used to produce the other ribbed fabrics, such as fille, poult, grosgrain, and repp. But in the case of the heavier ribbed fabrics thicker weft yarns must be used to obtain the heavier ribs and the difference in warp and weft fineness and closeness increases considerably as the ribs become bolder, e.g. in a grosgrain there will be four to six times as many warp yarns as weft yarns per inch. Poplin is mostly made from cotton and the



704 Word



Category



Short description



POPLINETTE



fabrics



PORCELAIN LACE



fabrics



POROSITY



general, fabrics



A very lightweight cotton poplin made with single yarns. A lace steeped in a thick solution of kaolin and fired, destroying the fibres and leaving the resultant porcelain in the lace pattern. The ratio of the volume of air or void contained within the boundaries of a material to the total volume (solid matter plus air or void) expressed as a percentage.



Description best qualities are given a mercerised finish and are made from combed two fold yarns to obtain maximum smoothness and evenness. Poplin is also made from staple fibre rayon yarns. It is used for a very wide range of clothing; dresses, blouses, shirts, pyjamas, etc. A very fine poplin can be difficult to make up because of its close structure; it can be very ‘hard’ to sew, particularly if it has a resin finish and it is very susceptible to seam pucker A very lightweight cotton poplin made with single yarns. A lace steeped in a thick solution of kaolin and fired, destroying the fibres and leaving the resultant porcelain in the lace pattern. The ratio of the volume of air or void contained within the boundaries of a material to the total volume (solid matter plus air or void) expressed as a percentage. In fabrics, this refers to open spaces in the weave which permit the passage of air from without or which



705 Word



Category



POSITIVE BEAT-UP



apparatus, equipage, tools



POSITIVE DRIVE



apparatus, equipage, tools



POSITIVE FEED



apparatus, equipage, tools



POST BED



apparatus, equipage, tools



POST CURE POST MERCERISATION



Short description



Description allow body heat to escape. See also Permeability A beat-up mechanism A beat-up mechanism in which in which the weft is the weft is moved by moved by a positively controlled reed. See a positively also Beat-up controlled reed. In yarn winding, a In yarn winding, a system in which a system in which a yarn package is yarn package is driven mechanically driven mechanically at constant or at constant or controlled rotational controlled rotational velocity. The yarn velocity. speed varies with with package diameter and is also dependent on angle of wind and cone taper angle if any. In weft knitting, the In weft knitting, the supply of a supply of a predetermined length predetermined of yarn to a given length of yarn to a number of needles of given number of a weft-knitting needles of a weftmachine. knitting machine. In sewing machine, a In sewing machine, a bed incorporating a bed incorporating a raised post raised post underneath the underneath the sewing head, which sewing head, which enables sewing to be enables sewing to be carried out above the carried out above the level of the table on level of the table on which the machine is which the machine is mounted. mounted. See Deferred cure See Deferred cure



processes, operations processes, Crease resistant Crease resistant linen fabrics may be operations linen fabrics may be produced by produced by treatment with urea treatment with urea formaldehyde resin formaldehyde resin followed by a followed by a mercerising treatment mercerising to confer durability treatment



706 Word



POSTER CLOTH



POT SPINNING POTTING



POULT



POUNCING



POUND GOODS



POWDER BONDING



Category



Short description



Description and suppleness. See also Mercerising. A bleached or grey fabrics A bleached or grey drill cloth given a drill cloth given a smooth-faced and smooth-faced and heavy starch backheavy starch backfilled finish. filled finish. Sometimes impregnated with pyroxylin to make it weather- and termiteproof. Used for outdoor advertising posters and displays. processes, See Box spinning See Box spinning operations processes, A finishing process A finishing process operations for woollens for woollens designed designed to produce to produce a bright, a bright, glossy face glossy face and a soft and a soft hand. hand. It consists of a heat and steam treatment. Also known as ‘wet decating’ fabrics A finishing process A finishing process for woollens designed for woollens designed to produce to produce a bright, a bright, glossy face glossy face and a soft hand. It consists of a and a soft hand. heat and steam treatment. Also known as ‘wet decating’. processes, In hat manufacturing In hat manufacturing, operations the operation of the subjecting the felt hood or body to a mechanical treatment with emery paper to produce a smooth finish. Fabric remnants fabrics Fabric remnants usually sold by the usually sold by the weight, instead of by weight, instead of by the length. the length. processes, A method of making A method of making



707 Word



Category Short description operations thermally-bonded non-woven fabric



Description thermally-bonded non-woven fabric in which the fibre web or batt is bonded by activating heatsensitive powder dispersed within it. POWDERING fabrics A dotted pattern A dotted pattern strewn all over the strewn all over the fabric fabric POWER NET fabrics See Lingerie knit. See Lingerie knit. POWER STRETCH FABRICS fabrics See under Woven See under Woven stretch fabric stretch fabric A loom which is POWERLOOM apparatus, A loom which is equipage, driven by a source of driven by a source of power such as an tools power such as an electric motor. This is electric motor. the standard form of loom used in the commercial production of fabrics. POY fibers, See Partially See Partially oriented filaments, oriented yarn yarn yarns PRAYER RUG garments, A small Oriental rug A small Oriental rug made-ups, used by the Muslims used by the Muslims to kneel on during assemblie to kneel on during prayer. These rugs prayer. s have characteristic motifs on it. The operation of PRE-BOARDING processes, The operation of operations boarding carried out boarding carried out on garments or on garments or stockings, usually stockings before they are scoured and dyed. See Boarding. PRE-CONDITIONING processes, In testing, to dry a In testing, to dry a operations textile material to an textile material to an approximately approximately constant mass constant mass in an atmosphere with a relative humidity between 10 % and 25 % and a temperature not exceeding 50° C. PRE-CURING processes, A finishing process A finishing process of



708 Word



PRE-SENSITIZATION



PRE-SHRUNK



PRE-SPOTTING



Category Short description operations of garment fabrics as piece goods to give them a durable press. processes, The treatment of a operations fabric with a reagent that will give stabilization of shape when the fabric, especially in garment form, is subsequently pressed.



fabrics



A fabric from which part or all of the residual shrinkage has been removed before the cloth is offered for sale. processes, A pre-treatment to operations remove or enhance removal of soil or stains in a local area on parts of garments with a solvent detergent solution



Description garment fabrics as piece goods to give them a durable press. The treatment of a fabric with a reagent that will give stabilization of shape when the fabric, especially in garment form, is subsequently pressed. The term has been used, e.g. for (i) the application of a cross-linking agent and latent catalyst to fabrics containing cellulosic fibres, so that the garments produced may be given durable shape by a heat treatment, and (ii) the application of a reducing agent, e.g. 2hydroxyethylammoniu m hydrogen sulphite, monoethanolamine bisulphite (MEAS), to wool fabrics and particularly garments to accelerate setting. A fabric from which part or all of the residual shrinkage has been removed before the cloth is offered for sale. A pre-treatment to remove or enhance removal of soil or stains in a local area on parts of garments with a solvent detergent solution before the regular dry



709 Word



Category



PRE-TENSION



general



PRECISION WINDING



processes, operations



PRECRÊPING



processes, operations



PREMETALLISED DYES



apparatus, equipage, tools



PREPARATION



processes, operations



Short description



Description cleaning process. The specified tension The specified tension applied to a applied to a specimen preparatory to making specimen a test. preparatory to making a test. The winding of a The winding of a yarn package in such a yarn package in way that consecutive such a way that coils are closely consecutive coils are spaced irrespective of closely spaced package diameter irrespective of package diameter The embossing of a The embossing of a fabric containing fabric containing crêpe yarns with a crêpe yarns with a design to influence design to influence the uniformity and the uniformity and fineness of the crêpe fineness of the crêpe effect produced in effect produced in subsequent subsequent treatment. This treatment. process is carried out by means of a precrêping calender. See also Embossed crêpe under crêpe. Later development of Later development of mordant dyes. mordant dyes. These are dye-metal complex dyes. By linking chromium with two molecules of dye, the 1:2 chromium complexes were formed. These are easier to apply and are widely used in dyeing, especially wool. In textile In textile manufacturing, those manufacturing, those processing operations processing performed on greige operations fabric, coloured performed on greige fabric, textile yarns or fabric, coloured fabric, textile yarns fibres to ready them or fibres to ready for dyeing, printing or



710 Word



Category



Short description them for dyeing, printing or finishing



PRESHRINKING



processes, Shrinking processes operations applied to fabric before cutting up to hold to a specified minimum the degree of shrinkage which will occur after the made-up articles are washed.



PRESIDENT BRAID



accessorie A braid similar to s Russia braid but with three cores



PRESS



apparatus, A device that equipage, squeezes liquid out tools of a fabric by roller pressing.



PRESS FINISHING PRESS-OFF



Description finishing. For example, typical greige cotton fabric preparation includes singeing, desizing, scouring, bleaching and (optionally) mercerising. Shrinking processes applied to fabric before cutting up to hold to a specified minimum the degree of shrinkage which will occur after the made-up articles are washed. The percentage of residual shrinkage is often indicated A braid similar to Russia braid but with three cores, the centre core being larger than the other two outer cores. 1. A device that subjects a fabric to heat and pressure to remove creases, folds or wrinkles. 2. A device that squeezes liquid out of a fabric by roller pressing. See under Boarding.



processes, See under Boarding. operations defects Fabric defect, major, Fabric defect, major, in knitted fabric. in knitted fabric. A condition in which the yarn fails to knit and either the fabric falls off the needles or the design is distorted or incomplete. Sometimes because of poor maintenance of the machinery



711 Word



Category



Short description



PRESSED-IN CREASE



fabrics



A sharp crease inserted intentionally in a fabric



PRESSER FOOT



PRESSING



apparatus, In a rib or plain equipage, knitting machine, the tools device that operates in the knitting zone for controlling loop formation and diminishes the need for take down weight on the fabric as it is formed.



processes, operations



A process of smoothening and shaping of textile material



Description (many of the knitting needles that are broken not replaced in time), all parts of the needles on circular knitting fail to function resulting in the fabric falling off the machine or the design is disrupted or even completely destroyed. A sharp crease inserted intentionally in a fabric usually by application of pressure, heat, and moisture. 1. In a rib or plain knitting machine, the device that operates in the knitting zone for controlling loop formation and diminishes the need for take down weight on the fabric as it is formed. Plates and wires of various sorts are used for this purpose. 2. In sewing machine, a section of the pressure device on the sewing machine which ensures, in conjunction with the throat plate and feeddog, an even flow of material and correct loop formation. A process of smoothening and shaping of textile material by heat and/or steam and/or vacuum, or a combination of these



712 Word



PRESSING AND FINISHING



PRESSING OFF



PRESSURE BOIL



PRESSURE BOWL



PRESSURE DYEING



PRESSURE MARK



Category



Short description



processes, This term takes into operations account all of the industrial pressing and finishing treatments used in garment production processes, IN KNITTING. The operations act of removing knitting from the needles of a knitting machine.



processes, operations



The scouring of cellulosic textiles with liquors in closed vessels under excess pressure. apparatus, In printing, the large equipage, central printing tools cylinder against which the engraved roller rotates



processes, Dyeing under super operations atmospheric pressure



defects



See Bruise.



Description with pressure. See also Ironing. This term takes into account all of the industrial pressing and finishing treatments used in garment production 1. IN KNITTING. The act of removing knitting from the needles of a knitting machine. This may be by design at the end of or progressively during a knitting cycle, or by accident when the yarn breaks during knitting. 2. IN GARMENT PRESSING. See Offpressing The scouring of cellulosic textiles with liquors in closed vessels under excess pressure. In printing, the large central printing cylinder against which the engraved roller rotates and which carries the back-gray and cloth to be printed. Made resilient by lapping, it acts in effect like a print table. Dyeing under super atmospheric pressure, primarily with the object of raising the temperature of the dye liquor above its normal boiling point. See Bruise.



713 Word PREWASHING



Category Short description Description processes, A finishing technique 1. A finishing operations applied on fabrics to technique applied on ensure a soft hand fabrics to ensure a and a fashion look. soft hand and a fashion look. Often done to denim and corduroy. 2. Action in the washing solution or period of agitation prior to regular washing. Accompanied by hand or automatic washer PRICKSTITCH general A hand stitch made A hand stitch made by passing the needle by passing the straight through the needle straight material at right through the material at right angles to the angles to the surface surface alternately alternately from one side to the other. from one side to the other. PRIMARY COLOURS general The primary or pure The primary or pure colours are red, colours are red, yellow and blue; yellow and blue; when mixed they when mixed they produce all other produce all other colours. See also colours. Colour, Secondary colours and Tertiary colours. PRIMARY CREEP processes, See Delayed See Delayed operations deformation. deformation. PRINCE OF WALES CHECK fabrics See Glen Urquhart See Glen Urquhart check under Checks. check under Checks. PRINCESS LACE fabrics An imitation of the An imitation of the luxurious Duchesse luxurious Duchesse lace. lace. Textile fabrics to PRINT fabrics Textile fabrics to which patterns are which patterns are applied by dyes with applied by dyes with stencils, rollers, stencils, rollers, wooden blocks, or wooden blocks, or screens. screens. PRINT BONDING processes, A method of making A method of making operations non-woven fabrics in non-woven fabrics in



714 Word



Category



PRINT CLOTH



fabrics



PRINT MACHINE STOP



defects



PRINT OUT OF REGISTER



defects



PRINT WORK



processes, operations



PRINT-ON



processes, operations



PRINT-ON-PRINT



processes, operations



Short description Description which there is which there is controlled application controlled application of adhesive to those of adhesive to those used for colouration used for colouration. See also Adhesive bonded non-woven fabric. A medium weight A medium weight cotton fabric with a cotton fabric with a plain weave from plain weave from carded yarns. Widths carded yarns. vary widely. The fabric is similar to sheeting but with finer yarn and construction. Converted into a wide variety of differently finished fabrics and printed in many different types of patterns. Printing defect, Printing defect, major. major. The smudging of dye along the width of the fabric, caused by a machine stop. Printing defect, may Printing defect, may be major or minor. be major or minor. The various colours of the design are not in proper position, caused by the print rollers not being synchronised properly. Embroidery worked Embroidery worked with black stitches with black stitches over sepia printed over sepia printed designs. Also called designs ‘etching embroidery’. A term used to A term used to indicate that the indicate that the printing method printing method employed is not employed is not discharge printing discharge printing Application of motifs Application of motifs to a textile fabric by to a textile fabric by



715 Word



Category



PRINT-PASTE



apparatus, equipage, tools



PRINTED STRING PRINTED YARNS



fabrics fibers, filaments, yarns



PRINTING



processes, operations



Short description Description an individual printing an individual printing roller for each colour. roller for each colour. A low expense method of printing. Also known as Dye- Also known as Dyepaste. paste. The blend of colouring-matter, solvents, mordant and thickening, which are used in printing to achieve the required impression See Bolduc. See Bolduc. Yarns on which the Yarns on which the design is printed design is printed before weaving. before weaving. Both the warp and weft yarns may be printed, or sometimes only the warp yarns are printed; the latter being known as a warp printed fabric. The process for The process for applying colourants applying colourants or or other materials to other materials to the surface of a the surface of a substrate, usually in substrate, usually in specific localised specific localised areas to produce a areas to produce a design. Patterning of design. cloth by means of printing, dyeing or painting. Printed fabrics may be divided into four different styles: Resist style, Dyed (or mordant) style, Discharge style and Direct style. All four styles can obviously be used in conjunction with a great variety of devices, from the simplest brush or thread, as in tie-and-



716 Word



Category



PRINTING TOPPING



processes, operations



PROCESS ENGRAVING



processes, operations



PROCESSED FILAMENT YARN



fibers, filaments, yarns



PROCESSING ORGANISATION



apparatus, equipage, tools



PROCESSING PERFORMANCE



processes, operations



PRODUCER DYEING



processes, operations general



PRODUCER’S RISK



Short description



Description dye, to the most elaborate and sophisticated of modern screen printing machinery. Second printing of a Second printing of a fabric fabric. Printing is done after the colour has been fixed and dried. Colours for topping are brilliant, heavy and dark to give tone to the lighter colours used in the first printing. The process in which The process in which copper cylinders copper cylinders used used for printing are for printing are etched from ‘tracings’ etched from ‘tracings’ (positives) (positives) produced entirely by photographic means. Also known as Photographic engraving. A synthetic filament A synthetic filament yarn that has been yarn that has been treated to increase treated to increase its bulk. its bulk. The layout of The layout of machinery, drafts, machinery, drafts, etc. used in textile etc. used in textile manufacturing manufacturing to produce a particular textile product A general term A general term denoting the denoting the processing efficiency processing efficiency of a specific process of a specific process or covering a group or series of processes See under MassSee under Masscolouration colouration The probability of The probability of rejecting a lot when rejecting a lot when the process average the process average is at the Acceptable is at the Acceptable



717 Word



Category



Short description Quality Level or AQL.



PRODUCTION LINE



processes, operations



In garment manufacturing, a linear arrangement of sewing machines, each dedicated to a limited task within the production of a garment.



PRODUCTION LOT



general



PROFESSIONAL CARE



PROFILE FIBRES



That part of one manufacturer’s production made from the same nominal raw material under essentially the same conditions and designed to meet the same specifications. processes, For consumer textile operations products, overall cleaning and maintenance procedures requiring the services of a person specially trained or skilled in their use



fibers, A term used to filaments, identify shape of the yarns fibre-filament cross section



Description Quality Level or AQL. See also Acceptable quality level. In garment manufacturing, a linear arrangement of sewing machines, each dedicated to a limited task within the production of a garment. The number of machines devoted to a particular task is related to the proportion of time that the task occupies in the total time required to produce the garment. The work usually passes from one operative to another in bundles. That part of one manufacturer’s production made from the same nominal raw material under essentially the same conditions and designed to meet the same specifications. For consumer textile products, overall cleaning and maintenance procedures requiring the services of a person specially trained or skilled in their use and usually earning a livelihood by their cleaning. A term used to identify shape of the fibre-filament cross section, i.e. bilobal, pentalobal, round, dogbone, x-shaped or



718 Word



Category



Short description



PROFILE STITCHING



general



Automatic sewing following a predetermined profile, e.g. by jig or cams.



PROGRESSIVE BUNDLE SYSTEM



processes, A production system operations in which bundles pass from one operator to the next with some work in hand at each operation.



PROGRESSIVE CURING



processes, Also called operations Spontaneous curing.



PROGRESSIVE LINE SYSTEM processes, A production system operations in which single garments or parts are assembled.



PROGRESSIVE SHRINKAGE



PROJECTILE



fabrics



Shrinkage that occurs on repeated washing or cleaning. apparatus, A device used in equipage, place of a shuttle. tools



Description y-shaped Automatic sewing following a predetermined profile, e.g. by jig or cams. Usually applied to the automatic stitching of small parts. See also Contour stitching and Stitching jig. A production system in which bundles pass from one operator to the next with some work in hand at each operation. The operations are laid out in sequence with the required number of machines for approximate balance allocated to each. Conventional bundle system Also called Spontaneous curing. A sensitised fabric treated for deferred cure that cures itself spontaneously while it is in storage A production system in which single garments or parts are assembled. During assembly the parts are passed from one operator to the next resulting in some work in hand. Shrinkage that occurs on repeated washing or cleaning. A device used in place of a shuttle. Instead of carrying a supply of yarn on a bobbin or quill, the



719 Word



Category



Short description



PROJECTILE LOOM



apparatus, A loom that uses equipage, projectiles instead of tools shuttles



PROOF



Fully resistant to a fibers, filaments, specified agency, either by reason of yarns, fabrics, physical structure or garments, inherent chemical made-ups, non-reactivity, or arising from a assemblie treatment designed s to impart the desired characteristics.



PROOFED



PROTEASE PROTECTIVE FINISHES



fabrics



Descriptive of a material that has been treated to render it resistant to a specified agency



³ See under Enzymes processes, finishing treatments



Description projectile grips single ends of weft yarn and carries them through the warp shed at the appropriate times. See also Shuttleless looms. A loom that uses projectiles instead of shuttles. See also Shuttleless looms. Fully resistant to a specified agency, either by reason of physical structure or inherent chemical non-reactivity, or arising from a treatment designed to impart the desired characteristics. Proofing treatments are defined by specified limits ascertained by test, and the use of the term is related to the limiting conditions. ‘Resistant’, ‘retardant’, or ‘repellent’ are appropriate alternatives used when the resistance is less than full. Descriptive of a material that has been treated to render it resistant to a specified agency. A designation of materials as ‘proofed’ should indicate that the material conforms to definite standards. See Proof. See under Enzymes Those finishing



720 Word



Category Short description operations



PROTEIN FIBRE



fibers, filaments, yarns



PRUNELLA



fabrics



PTFE FIBRE



fibers, filaments, yarns



PTU



garments, made-ups, assemblie s fabrics



PUCKERED FABRIC



Description treatments: (a) that protect the wearer from discomfort such as ‘air conditioning’, ‘antibacterial’, ‘antistatic’ (b) that protect wearer from bodily injury such as ‘fire retardant’ and (c) that protect the fabric from deterioration such as ‘moth repellent’, ‘perspiration resistant’, ‘mildew resistant’, and ‘abrasion resistant’. A natural fibre 1. A natural fibre derived from derived from animals. animals. 2. A manufactured fibre obtained from natural protein substances by chemical regeneration. A 2/1 twill weave, A 2/1 twill weave, fine fine worsted cloth, worsted cloth, mostly mostly made in plain made in plain colours colours only. only. Often used for children’s clothes, but also for clergymen’s wear. Short for Short for polytetrafluoroethyle polytetrafluoroethylen ne e. See Polytetrafluoroethylen e Abbreviatiion for Abbreviatiion for ‘permanent turn-up. ‘permanent turn-up. See Turn-ups. Fabrics that have curliness or crimpness in it



Fabrics that have curliness or crimpness in it, as a result of uneven contraction, caused when yarns of different sizes or varying tensions are



721 Word



Category



Short description



PUCKERED SELVEDGE



defects



Fabric defect, may be major or minor.



PUCKERING



defects



A wavy, threedimensional effect typified by closely spaced wrinkles



PUFF



garments, A small wedge of the made-ups, same material sewn assemblie on to a ‘V’ cut at s various positions in canvas or lining making



PULL



PULL, IN ZIPPERS. fibers, filaments, A part connected to a zipper slider by yarns, apparatus, which the slider is operated. equipage, tools



PULL-IN PULL-IN MACHINE



defects See Pulled-in filling. apparatus, A machine used to equipage, photographically tools reduce the width of a printing design as well as for slashing.



Description woven together or by processing. See Plissé, Seersucker. Fabric defect, may be major or minor. Usually caused by selvage being stretched in finishing or uneven wetting out in the sanforization process. A wavy, threedimensional effect typified by closely spaced wrinkles, on either the face fabric or the backing fabric, or both. A small wedge of the same material sewn on to a ‘V’ cut at various positions in canvas or lining making to accommodate a prominence, such as the shoulder bones. 1. In cotton length testing, a group of fibres grasped by the forceps at one time and drawn from the specimen in the combs. 2. PULL, IN ZIPPERS. A part connected to a zipper slider by which the slider is operated. See Pulled-in filling. A machine used to photographically reduce the width of a printing design as well as for slashing. Also known as Takein machine.



722 Word PULLED WOOL



Category fibers, filaments, yarns



PULLED WORK



processes, operations defects



PULLED-IN FILLING



PULLER FEED



apparatus, equipage, tools



PULLING, RAG



processes, operations



PULLING-BACK



processes, operations



Short description Description Also called Slipe Also called Slipe wool, Skin wool. wool, Skin wool. Wool taken from the pelt of a slaughtered sheep and which has not been commercially scoured. It is inferior in all respects to fleece wool, which is taken from live sheep. Pulled wool is used with better grades of fleece wool to make woollen and worsteds. Open-work Open-work embroidery. embroidery. Fabric defect Fabric defect. Also called Drag-in, Lashin, Whip-in. An extra thread dragged into the shed with the regular pick and extending only a part of the way across the cloth. See also Jerkin. In sewing machine, a In sewing machine, a feed mechanism feed mechanism situated after the situated after the presser foot and presser foot and consisting of one or consisting of one or more rollers, at least more rollers one of which is driven, in contact with the material, which feed or assist in feeding it. Puller feeds may be either continuous or intermittent. Also called Grinding, Also called Grinding, rag. rag. The operation of reducing rags and threads to a fibrous state. See Unweaving. See Unweaving.



723 Word PULLING-BACK PLACE



PULP



PUNCHED CARD



PUNCHED WORK



Category defects



Short description Fabric defect.



fibers, COTTON. Purified filaments, cotton linters usually yarns in the form of standard sheets about 1mm thick. The process involves pressure boiling followed by bleaching.



fabrics



In weaving, a card perforated in such a manner to control operations



processes, An open work type of operations embroidery.



Description Fabric defect. An isolated narrow bar, running parallel with the picks of woven fabric, that starts abruptly and gradually shades away to normal fabric and is caused by ‘unweaving’. The pick-spacing within this bar may be different from that of the normal fabric or may be similar to it, but the effect will still be visible as a result of the greater degree of abrasion to which the warp has been subjected by being unwoven and woven again 1. COTTON. Purified cotton linters usually in the form of standard sheets about 1mm thick. The process involves pressure boiling followed by bleaching. 2. WOOD. Cellulose fibres isolated from wood by chemical treatments. A raw material in the manufacture of viscose In weaving, a card perforated in such a manner to control operations; in weaving to control the pattern in a fabric An open work type of embroidery. Certain threads of a fabric are



724 Word



Category



Short description



PUNTO DI ROMA



fabrics



A non-jacquard double jersey fabric made on an interlock basis, using a selection of loops and floats.



PURDAH



fabrics



A fine, closely woven cotton or linen veil worn by Indian women



PURE DYE SILK PURE FINISH



fabrics processes, operations



See Pure silk. A finish applied without the use of weighting, sizing, etc. See under Gold thread.



PURE GOLD



PURE SILK



PURE STARCHED FINISH



Description pulled aside with a needle or stiletto and are fastened by embroidery stitches. Used mainly on household linens. A non-jacquard double jersey fabric made on an interlock basis, using a selection of loops and floats. A double-knit fabric combining the appearance of rib and jersey stitches. The alternative PonteRoma is probably a corruption. 1. A fine, closely woven cotton or linen veil worn by Indian women. 2. A plain weave, Indian cotton fabric generally made in blue and white stripes. Used for curtains and screens See Pure silk. A finish applied without the use of weighting, sizing, etc.



fibers, See under Gold filaments, thread. yarns fabrics Also called Pure dye Also called Pure dye silk, All silk silk, All silk. Silk goods which do not contain metallic weighting or finishing materials exceeding 10 % (15 % on black). See also Weighted silk. processes, A crisp finish A crisp finish operations achieved with a achieved with a



725 Word



PURIFYING FINISH



PURL FABRIC



PURL GAITING PURL STITCH



Category



Short description starch mixture, to which softening compounds may be added.



processes, Any fabric treatment operations which prevents body odours



fabrics



A weft knitted fabric in which both back and face loops are used in some or all of the wales, which produces horizontal ridges and thus the ribbed effect.



processes, See under Gating. operations fabrics Usually a weft-knit cloth, nor classed with single and double knits which are also weft knits, but separately.



Description starch mixture, to which softening compounds may be added. Used especially on cotton goods it is applied to achieve the ‘hand’, but not for weighting. Any fabric treatment which prevents body odours by destroying odour-causing bacteria coming in contact with the fabric. A weft knitted fabric in which both back and face loops are used in some or all of the wales, which produces horizontal ridges and thus the ribbed effect. The structure may be identified by the particular knitting sequence used, e.g. 1x1 purl fabric, in which a single course of back loops alternates with a single course of face loops. 2x2 purl and 3x3 are made in a corresponding way. See also Fancy purl. See under Gating. Usually a weft-knit cloth, nor classed with single and double knits which are also weft knits, but separately. Identifying features are that it looks similar to the reverse side of jersey. Used



726 Word



PURLS PURSE SILK



PURSE TWIST



PUSSY WILLOW



PUTTING IN REGISTER PUTTING ON



PVC



PVDC



PYJAMA



Category



Short description



fabrics See Pearls. fibers, A thick, smooth, soft filaments, silk thread used for yarns embroidery. fibers, A silk yarn dyed in a filaments, brilliant colour in yarns imitation of gold.



fabrics



A plain weave fabric characterised by fine horizontal lines and made from net silk yarn.



Description for sweaters, in stripes and patterns. Also termed as ‘plain knitted’. See Pearls. A thick, smooth, soft silk thread used for embroidery. A silk yarn dyed in a brilliant colour in imitation of gold. Used as ornamental thread and for embroidery. A plain weave fabric characterised by fine horizontal lines and made from net silk yarn. The warp sett is made greater than the weft sett. See Pitching.



processes, See Pitching. operations processes, In printing, the job of In printing, the job of transferring the operations transferring the design to the surface design to the surface of the block or die of the block or die prior to cutting or prior to cutting or engraving. engraving. fibers, See Polyvinyl See Polyvinyl chloride filaments, chloride fibre. fibre. yarns fibers, See Polyvinylidene See Polyvinylidene filaments, chloride. chloride. yarns Same as Pajama. garments, Same as Pajama. made-ups, assemblie s



Q Word QD



Category apparatus, equipage,



Short description Abbreviation for quick disassembly zipper.



Description Abbreviation for quick disassembly zipper. See



727 Word QR



QUALITY



Category tools apparatus, equipage, tools general



QUALITY CONTROL



general



QUALITY WOOLS



fibers, filaments, yarns



QUALITY, IN WARP KNITTING QUALTY ASSURANCE



processes, operations



QUARTER



fabrics



general



Short description Abbreviation for quick release zipper.



Description Releasing stop. Abbreviation for quick release zipper. See Releasing stop.



A relative term used to Quality may be described as: indicate the perceived 1. The totality of features and characteristics of a product or merits of similar products for the same service that bear on its ability to satisfy stated or implied needs. end-use. 2. A term, usually combined with a number or name, used to identify textile products. 3. A relative term used to indicate the perceived merits of similar products for the same end-use. Continuous testing and Continuous testing and inspection of manufacturing inspection of operations to make certain that manufacturing all products measure up to operations to make certain that all products quality standards previously set. measure up to quality standards previously set. Wool grading term referring to Wool grading term wools graded from 28’s to 100’s referring to wools quality. Superior qualities, graded from 28’s to graded above 60’s are merino. 100’s quality. Those graded below 60’s are classed as crossbreds, below 50’s medium crossbreds. Wools graded below 40’s are generally classed as coarse wool. See Inches per rack See Inches per rack (IPR). (IPR). To carry out all those planned To carry out all those and systematic actions planned and systematic actions necessary to necessary to provide adequate confidence that a product or provide adequate service will satisfy given confidence that a requirements for quality. product or service will satisfy given requirements for quality. A unit of measure, 9 A unit of measure, 9 inches, inches, used as a used as a standard in



728 Word



Category



QUARTER GOODS



fabrics



QUARTZ FIBRES



general



QUARTZ YARN



fibers, filaments, yarns



QUEEN SILK



fabrics



QUEEN STITCH



general



QUEEN’S CORD



fabrics



QUENCHING



processes, operations



QUILANDI YARN



fibers, filaments, yarns



QUILL



fibers, filaments, yarns, apparatus, equipage,



Short description standard in measuring some textiles Fabrics 9 inches wide.



Description measuring some textiles; especially wider widths. Fabrics 9 inches wide. Threequarter goods is 27 inches wide; six-quarter is 54 inches wide and labeled 6/4. Pure melted silica that Pure melted silica that is drawn is drawn into glass-like into glass-like fibres. These fibres. fibres have good resistance and high dielectric strength. Yarn spun from quartz Yarn spun from quartz fibre and fibre and short fibres short fibres obtained fem textile obtained fem textile waste; the latter are too short to waste be spun alone. The quartz fibre forms the skeleton or backbone of the yarn, which is claimed to be highly durable. Mainly produced in Austria. A soft, silk chiffon A soft, silk chiffon fabric, yarn or fabric, yarn or piece piece dyed. dyed. A square-within-aA square-within-a-square design square design embroidered on a fabric. The embroidered on a sides are parallel. fabric. In warp-knitting, a two-bar In warp-knitting, a twobar construction made construction made with full-set with full-set threading in threading in both guide bars. The lapping movement of the both guide bars. back guide bar involves underlapping three or four needle spaces, while the front guide bar chains continuously on the same needle. Cooling of man-made fibres Cooling of man-made after extrusion by carefully fibres after extrusion by controlled air flow. carefully controlled air flow. A coarse, hand-twisted, A coarse, hand-twisted, two-ply two-ply coir yarn coir yarn produced on the produced on the Malabar coast, India. Used Malabar coast, India. mainly for bagging and matting See Pirn. 1. See Pirn. 2. In feathers, the stem or central shaft.



729 Word QUILL EMBROIDERY



Category tools processes, operations



QUILL FEATHERS



fibers, filaments, yarns



QUILL POINT



fibers, filaments, yarns



QUILL SHAFT



fibers, filaments, yarns processes, operations fibers, filaments, yarns



QUILL WINDING QUILOT



QUILT



Short description



Description



Needlework decorated with split porcupine quills, feathers, and stips of skins. Feathers which are over 4 inches in length or which have a quill point exceeding 6/16 iches in length. In feathers, the section of quill extending beyond the section of barb attachment. In feathers, the section of quill from which the barbs emanate. See Pirn winding.



Needlework decorated with split porcupine quills, feathers, and stips of skins. Feathers which are over 4 inches in length or which have a quill point exceeding 6/16 iches in length. In feathers, the section of quill extending beyond the section of barb attachment. In feathers, the section of quill from which the barbs emanate. See Pirn winding.



A fine, white and glossy A fine, white and glossy inner inner fbre yielded by fbre yielded by the abaca plant. the abaca plant. Used for very fine fabrics by the natives of the Philippines. A bedcovering assembly used fabrics, A bedcovering primarily for warmth, consisting garments, assembly used of an insulating filler secured made-ups, primarily for warmth, between two layers of fabric, but assemblies consisting of an insulating filler secured generally lighter in weight and between two layers of thinner than a comforter. The fabric, but generally two layers of fabric are held with rows of machining in diamond lighter in weight and pattern or parallel rows. thinner than a A backing, which may be a thin comforter. layer of plain-colored knitted nylon or another fabric to contrast with or match the outer material, is usually added before quilting This is referred to as double-sided quilt-ing. All quilting is warm but light. Used for robes, dressing gowns, bed jackets, anoraks, children’s clothes, snow suits, jackets, boleros, belts and also small pieces of quilting can be used for collars, pockets, yokes, lining hoods.



730 Word QUILTING



QUILTING COTTON QUINA



QULLING



QUTN



Category processes, operations



Short description The production of a raised or padded effect by stitching or other means in two layers of fabric lined or interlined with wadding or similar material. accessories Stuffing used for quilts made of cotton batting or wadding. fibers, Trade name for a rather filaments, recently developed yarns nylon fibre which is made available only in filament form, has some silk-like properties.



Description The production of a raised or padded effect by stitching or other means in two layers of fabric lined or interlined with wadding or similar material. The stitching, etc. may be in parallel rows or to a pattern Stuffing used for quilts made of cotton batting or wadding.



Trade name for a rather recently developed nylon fibre which is made available only in filament form, has some silk-like properties. Need no ironing, and reasonably crease resistant, non-yellowing. Used mainly for knitted fabrics. processes, A type of narrow lace of 1. A process of winding warp operations, plain or spotted net. yarns on filling bobbins or quills fabrics especially yarns of man-made fibres or silk yarn. 2. A trimming fabric which is fluted or plaited, resembling a row of quills. 3. A type of narrow lace of plain or spotted net. fibers, The Arabic word for The Arabic word for cotton. filaments, cotton. yarns



R Word Category RABBIT HAIR CLOTH fabrics



RACCROC STITCH



Short description Description A fabric in which rabbit’s hair A fabric in which rabbit’s hair is used in is used in combination with other fibers to give the combination with other material a soft, smooth hand. fibers to give the Little or much of the rabbit material a soft, hair may appear on the smooth hand. surface, as desired. It is used in varying percentages with wool and in blend fabrics. A stitch used in lace A stitch used in lace making making to join to join separately made separately made pieces together into a larger



731 Word



Category



Short description pieces together into a larger piece.



RACE



IF



The cut filling floats of pile that run warpwise in corduroy and velveteen.



RACK



I



In warp knitting, a unit of length measure consisting of 480 courses.



RACKED STITCH



I



In weft knitting, a sideways-deflected stitch



RACKING



¡



The movement of one knitting bed of a rib or purl knitting machine relative to the other



RADDLE



F



A mechanical device for spreading the warps evenly as they are wound onto the beam.



RADIANT ENERGY



o



Energy traveling through space in the



Description piece. The edges of the smaller pieces are finished with half meshes instead of whole meshes. 1. The cut filling floats of pile that run warpwise in corduroy and velveteen. After the cloth is woven, the races are cut in their center. Later, the cut fibers are brushed up to form an all-over pile, as in velveteen, or cords or wales, as in corduroy. 2. In the loom, the path of the shuttle on the reed. In warp knitting, a unit of length measure consisting of 480 courses. On machines with two needle-bars, 480 courses on each set of needles In weft knitting, a sidewaysdeflected stitch that lies across a stitch formed in the same course on the opposite needle bed. The movement of one knitting bed of a rib or purl knitting machine relative to the other, either to produce deflections within the fabric being knitted or to re-align the elements for a different structure to that previously being knitted. Partial racking: Less than one full needle space, may be required to facilitate loop transfer from one bed to the other on a rib machine. A mechanical device for spreading the warps evenly as they are wound onto the beam. Necessary when the loom is warped from the back to the front. Energy traveling through space in the form of photons



732 Word



Category



Short description Description form of photons or or electromagnetic waves of electromagnetic various lengths. waves of various lengths. RADIO fabrics A soft, lustrous, sheer A soft, lustrous, sheer silk silk fabric fabric made in a plain weave and dyed or printed. RADIO FREQUENCY processes, The use of dielectric Also called RF heating. The HEATING operations for heating. use of dielectric of frequencies from 3 to 300 MHz for heating. RADIO ¡ Openwork embroidery Openwork embroidery made PUNCHWORK made with round with round designs. designs. RADIUM fabrics Plain-weave lustrous Plain-weave lustrous fabric, fabric that has the draping quality of Crêpe but the crispness of Taffeta. The fibers used include silk, viscose, acetate, and triacetate. Used for lingerie, robes, blouses, and as lining fabric. Slippery to handle. RAFFIA v A fiber obtained from A fiber obtained from the the leaves of the raffia leaves of the raffia palm palm ‘raphia ruffia’. ‘raphia ruffia’. RAG PULLING ¡ The reducing of The reducing of wastes, wastes, threads, and threads, and fabrics to fabrics to fibrous form fibrous form by garnetting or by some other process appropriate for waste stock A rug made with a weft of RAG RUG z A rug made with a weft of rags of cotton rags of cotton or wool torn or wool torn into strips into strips and tied sewed together at the ends. The and tied sewed together at the ends. warp is of heavy cotton. May be handmade or machinemade RAGLAN SLEEVE z A sleeve with the A sleeve with the armhole armhole line line extending from the front extending from the and back scye to the neck front and back scye to point so that the shoulder the neck point section is joined to the sleeve crown, eliminating the conventional shoulder and sleeve head seams. The term is used in both woven



733 Word



Category



Short description



RAGS



Iz



Shabby or tattered clothing, torn pieces of cloth.



RAILWAY STITCH



Same as Chain stitch.



RAIN GROWN COTTON



v



Cotton grown under conditions of natural rainfall.



RAIN TEST



I



A standard method to measure the resistance of fabrics to the penetration of rain.



RAINBOW EFFECT



¡



RAINBOW YARNS RAINBOWING



Description and knitted garment construction. Shabby or tattered clothing, torn pieces of cloth. 1. NEW RAGS. The waste fabric, whether or woven or knitted, that is left after a garment has been cut out. The term also covers piece ends and discarded pattern bunches. 2. OLD RAGS. Worn garments etc., that have been discarded. 1. Same as Chain stitch. 2. In crocheting, same as tricot stitch. 3. See Leviathan stitch. Cotton grown under conditions of natural rainfall. The moisture content and rate of growth have a definite influence upon fiber properties and have an effect upon finishing processes such as dyeing. A standard method to measure the resistance of fabrics to the penetration of rain. Different hydrostatic heads are used to simulate the effects of rainfalls of different intensities. See Water resistance. An effect produced in calico printing by shading the different colored fields into each other.



An effect produced in calico printing by shading the different colored fields into each other. v Novelty yarns made in Novelty yarns made in an an ombré effect. ombré effect. processes, The use of divided The use of divided color-box operations color-box in block in block printing, so that the printing color is transferred to the block in the form of softly shaded stripes. In French it is called Fondu.



734 Word RAINCOAT FABRIC RAISED BACKS



RAISED CHECKS



RAISED COLORS



RAISED EMBROIDERY



RAISED FABRIC RAISED FIBER SURFACE



RAISED JERSEY



RAISED POINT



RAISING RAISING PLAINS



Category I fabrics



Short description Description See Proofed poplin. See Proofed poplin. A general term for A general term for fabrics fabrics with nap raised with nap raised on the back, on the back especially –cotton fabrics such as flannelette, some pajama fabrics I A fabric figured with A fabric figured with extra extra warp on a plain warp on a plain ground. ground. ¡ A printing term for A printing term for colors colors which are which are treated after treated after printing printing, in a bath which will fix or develop the color. Needlework with raised processes, Needlework with operations raised patterns done patterns done in satin stitch over padding. Used on table in satin stitch over and bed linens, scallops and padding. for monograms. Embroidery with figures in high relief is called Stump work. I See Napped fabric. See Napped fabric. I In textile fabrics, In textile fabrics, intentionally intentionally lifted lifted fibers or yarns such as fibers or yarns such pile, napped, tufted, flocked, as pile, napped, or similar surfaces. tufted, flocked, or similar surfaces. Term used to describe a I Term used to describe a medium-weight knit medium-weight knit fabric of fairly open texture, that has fabric of fairly open texture, that has been been brushed on the right brushed on the right side to add warmth and give an attractive fuzzy effect. side to add warmth and give an attractive Often made in random color coordinating yarns. The fiber fuzzy effect. is usually acrylic as it lends itself particularly well to this kind of treat-ment. Used for soft suits, dresses, and coats. I A needlepoint lace A needlepoint lace with a with a padded motif to padded motif to make it stand make it stand in relief. in relief. ¡ See Napping. See Napping. I A plain weave cotton A plain weave cotton fabric fabric made with hard made with hard spun warp spun warp and and coarse, soft spun filling.



735 Word



RAJAH



RAMBOUILLET



RAMIE



RANDOM DYEING



Category



Short description Description coarse, soft spun filling. I Soft, strong, plain Soft, strong, plain weave silk weave silk fabric with fabric with rough texture. It rough texture. was first made, not in the Far East, but in the United States. Tussah Silk was normally used, but it is now made from acetate, triacetate, nylon, polyester. It is very similar in appearance and weight to Pongee Wool fiber from a breed, v Wool fiber from a breed, which is of the which is of the largest and the strongest bodied wool largest and the sheep. This is a pure strongest bodied wool descendant of Spanish sheep merino. Fiber length is 11/2 to 3 inches. Shrinkage averages about 60 %. fibers, yarn. Also known as Yarn. Also known as Chinafilaments, China-grass, Rhea. It grass, Rhea. It a strong, yarns, a strong, vegetable vegetable bast fiber. Ramie fabrics bast fiber. consists of the bast fibers from the green-leafed ramie (‘Bohemeria nivea’), and the white-leafed ramie (‘Bohemeria tenacissima’). Lacks flexibility and elasticity. Very lustrous, bleaches to a beautiful white and is extremely durable. Fabric. Also called China grass and Nettle cloth. An old Chinese fabric woven from ramie fibers. An uneven weave, but a very fine transparent fabric once used a great deal in China as a basis for embroidered table linen. Launders and starches well. Very similar in appearance to Pineapple cloth. processes, A method of dyeing A method of dyeing yarn operations yarn where the color is applied to small areas in a random manner with some portions in



736 Word



Category



RANDOM LINKING



¡



RANDOM RANGE RANDOM SAMPLING



I ¡



RANDOM SHEAR



I



RANDOM SLUB



v



RANDOM WINDING



¡



Short description



Description one color and other portions in other color or white. May be done by Tie-dyeing. Linking in which, when Linking in which, when stitching pieces of fabric stitching pieces of fabric together, no together, no attempt is made to stitch through adjacent attempt is made to loops. stitch through adjacent loops. See Pattern blanket. See Pattern blanket. The process of The process of selecting selecting units for a units for a sample of size ‘n’ sample of size ‘n’ in such a manner that all combinations of ‘n’ units under consideration have an equal or ascertainable chance of being selected as the sample. Same as Simple random sampling and Sampling at random. 1. The pile of a rug which has The pile of a rug been cut (sheared) so that which has been cut (sheared) so that the the pile is in varied, random lengths. This kind of texture pile is in varied, is intended to ensure a bright random lengths. lustre and soil-hiding properties. 2. A planned shearing or clipping of loops in parts of a textured effect. May be called sculpturing as in carpeting, velvet, velveteen and some silk fabrics. Clipped loops in some parts of a motif and uncut loops in other parts gives a richness of texture to the cloth, particularly for eveningwear. A slub yarn with the thick A slub yarn with the places in a variety of lengths thick places in a and thicknesses and variety of lengths and distributed at random in the thicknesses and yarn distributed at random in the yarn A method of winding A method of winding cones cones and cheeses and cheeses in which the angle of wind is constant and the wind decreases as the



737 Word



Category



RANDOM YARN



v



RAPID AGER RAPIER



RAPIER LOOM



F apparatus, equipage, tools F



RAS



I



RASCHEL KNIT



fabrics



RASMUSSEN PROCESS



processes, operations



Short description



Description package diameter increases. A novelty yarn 1. A novelty yarn made by twisting one colored strand around a different colored core. 2. Sometimes applied to varicolored yarn. See under Ageing. See under Ageing. A device for inserting A device for inserting filling filling from the side of the loom during weaving. See under Shuttleless See under Shuttleless looms. looms. A general term in French A general term in French used for plain used for plain weave solid weave solid colored colored fabric made with nap. Commonly made in wool. fabric made with nap Name of this type of Name of this type of knitted knitted fabric derived fabric derived from the name from the name of the of the machine on which this machine on which this is produced. The Raschel machine uses latch needles is produced. The set in a vertical plane and Raschel machine uses latch needles set produces a wide variety of fabrics, particularly heavier in a vertical plane and complex structures. Fabrics are not of conventional knit construction, but appears to be partly woven in texture. These fabrics are often printed; and some are very transparent; they have some ‘give’, but only a little, are attractive, wear well and do not crease. The fiber content is polyester. Used for blouses, dresses, curtains, bedspreads, depending on design. See also under Knitting. A technique of making A technique of making a a bonded-fiber fabric bonded-fiber fabric. A sheet of polyethylene or polypropylene is stretched lengthwise to orient its molecular chains. When



738 Word



Category



Short description



RAT-TAIL CORD



w



Also called American cord



RATCHET LOCK SLIDER



F



In zippers, a slider with a locking mechanism



RATE OF DYEING



³



The rate at which a dye is absorbed



RATINÉ



I



French word meaning ‘fuzzy’. A rough, pebbly woolen fabric made of novelty yarns with a fancy twist, and similar in finished appearance to Chinchilla.



RATINÉ LACE



I



RATINÉ YARN



fibers, filaments, yarns



Machine-made lace, the groundwork of which consists of heavy loops rather than mesh. A curly knotty plied yarn



Description disintegrated into fibrous form, the fine fibers are relatively parallel to each other. Two or three layers of fibers are spot-welded together. Also called American cord. A tubular woven cord usually of satin construction. In zippers, a slider with a locking mechanism that permits the slider to slip along the chain upon application of a predetermined force so as to prevent damage that would impair either the service or use of either the slider or chain. The rate at which a dye is absorbed by a substrate under specified conditions. French word meaning ‘fuzzy’. A rough, pebbly woolen fabric made of novelty yarns with a fancy twist, and similar in finished appearance to Chinchilla. Plain weave with an uneven surface due to the use of fancy yarns usually of the spiral or loop type. These give a randomly uneven surface effect varying in coarseness according to the weight of fabric. Used for men’s overcoats. Basically this is a coating fabric but dress or suiting weights can be made. Machine-made lace, the groundwork of which consists of heavy loops rather than mesh. A curly knotty plied yarn made with one heavy and one or more fine single yarns



739 Word



Category



RATING



w¡



RAVEL COURSES RAVELING



¡ v¡



RAVENSDUCK



I



RAW



general



RAW COTTON



v



RAW EDGE



I



RAW SEAM



RAW SILK



v



RAW STOCK



v



RAW STOCK DYEING



¡



Short description



Description twisted together under uneven tension; the heavy yarn is fed more freely, producingloops or nubs. 1. A quantitative or qualitative A quantitative or scale for evaluation of a qualitative scale for specific property. evaluation of a 2. The process for specific property. determining or assigning a grade to a material by comparing it to a standard ref-erence scale. See Roving courses. See Roving courses. A loose yarn that has A loose yarn that has been partially or wholly detached been partially or from a cloth. wholly detached from The process of removing the a cloth. yarns consecutively from the fabric. A very heavy linen fabric in A very heavy linen 2/1 twill weaves, such as a fabric in 2/1 twill sailcloth. weaves, such as a sailcloth. textile materials in Term applied to textile their natural state. materials in their natural state. Ginned lint that has Ginned lint that has not been subjected to any textile not been subjected to manufacturing process. See any textile also Ginned lint. manufacturing process. Unfinished edge of a Unfinished edge of a fabric, fabric, which may which may ravel. ravel. A visible line made by A visible line made by joining joining two parts of a two parts of a fabric by fabric placing two cut (raw) edges of fabric together and stitching them. Continuous filaments Continuous filaments or or strands containing strands containing no twist, no twist, as it has been reeled from silk cocoons. Unprocessed fiber in Unprocessed fiber in the the natural state. natural state. See Raw. The process of dyeing The process of dyeing fibers fibers in a mass in a mass before spinning or



740 Word



RAW WOOL



RAWKINESS RAYLEIGH RAYON FIBER



RAYON FIBRE



Category



Short description Description before spinning or weaving. weaving. Wool or hair of the sheep in v Wool or hair of the the grease, pulled, or sheep in the grease, scoured state. pulled, or scoured state. defects Streakiness in a fabric Streakiness in a fabric due to uneven, irregular yarns. I Irregular bars in Irregular bars in guipure lace guipure lace v The earliest man1. The earliest man-made made fiber, from fiber, from cellulose such as cellulose such as wood or cotton. wood or cotton. A manufactured fiber composed of regenerated cellulose, as well as manufactured fibers composed of regenerated cellulose in which substituents have replaced not more than 15 % of the hydrogens of the hydroxyl groups. This definition includes three types of regenerated cellulose fiber, Viscose, Modal and Cupro. 2. The term Rayon is used in some manufacturing countries for any manufactured cellulose fiber, including, in some cases, fibers composed of cellulose acetate. fibers, man-made fiber, from 1. The earliest man-made filaments, cellulose such as fiber, from cellulose such as yarns wood or cotton wood or cotton. A manufactured fiber composed of regenerated cellulose, as well as manufactured fibers composed of regenerated cellulose in which substituents have replaced not more than 15 % of the hydrogens of the hydroxyl groups. This definition includes three types of



741 Word



Category



Short description



RAYON STAPLE



v



Short rayon fiber of spinnable length manufactured directly or by cutting large groups of continuous filaments.



RAYON STRAW



v



A ribbon-like filament of viscose rayon.



RAYON TOW



v



A tow composed of parallel filaments of continuous lengths



RAYON-HP



v



High performance, or improved kinds of rayon.



RAZ



I



RE



v



RE-ANIMALIZING



¡



Solid colored wool serge See Residual Elongation. A process which was used for weighting silk



Description regenerated cellulose fiber, Viscose, Modal and Cupro. 2. The term Rayon is used in some manufacturing countries for any manufactured cellulose fiber, including, in some cases, fibers composed of cellulose acetate Short rayon fiber of spinnable length manufactured directly or by cutting large groups of continuous filaments. Generally measures to 1 to 20 denier and is usually produced in lengths of 1 to 5 inches. Spun into yarns of different textures and sizes. Often it is blended with natural and other man-made fibers. In general, the lengths and thicknesses are comparable with natural fibers. Rayon staple does not include cut rayon waste A ribbon-like filament of viscose rayon. It is folded and resembles straw. A tow composed of parallel filaments of continuous lengths, which will be used for processing into yarns by any of several towconversion methods. It is also used for flock. High performance, or improved kinds of rayon. These types will include high tenacity and high-wet modulus Solid colored wool serge See Residual Elongation. A process which was used for weighting silk and supposedly to strengthen the



742 Word



Category



Short description



Description fiber by immersion in a bath containing phosphate of soda with glue or casein. Flat lace that has been reRE-EMBROIDERED I Flat lace that has LACE been re-worked with worked with another intricate design using a variety of another intricate design using a variety threads. An elaborate and expensive fabric, due to the of threads. two operations involved. REACTION processes, A process of fiber A process of fiber production SPINNING operations production in which polymerization is achieved during the extrusion of one set of reactants into another set of reactants. REACTIVE DYES ³ These are dyes that, These are dyes that, under suitable conditions, are under suitable capable of reacting conditions, are chemically with cellulose capable of reacting fibers. This produces a chemically with covalent dye-fiber bond, cellulose fibers. which gives dyeings and prints of excellent washing fastness. May be used on wool, silk and nylon with varying degrees of fastness properties. The differences in reactivity of different shades of dyes are indicated, usually by using different letters, e.g. ‘Procion M’ (more reactive) and ‘Procion H’ (less reactive) dyes. Reactive dyes are suitable for cotton, linen, wool, silk, viscose rayon, and cuprammonium rayon fibers. A yarn made by twisting REAVY YARN v A yarn made by twisting together a together a single and two-ply yarn. Also see Reamy yarn. single and two-ply yarn RECESS SHEARING ¡ See Hollow-cut See Hollow-cut velveteen. velveteen. RECLAIMED v A broad term which A broad term which includes: TEXTILE FIBERS includes: extract wool, extract wool, mungo, noil, mungo, noil, reprocessed wool, reused reprocessed wool, wool, shoddy, etc. reused wool, shoddy, etc.



743 Word RECLAIMED WOOL



Category v



Short description Description This broad term This broad term implies wool implies wool obtained obtained from various from various sources sources; clippings, reprocessed wool, shoddy, mungo, extract wool, etc. RECLINING TWILL fabrics A twill weave A twill weave which produces a twill line running at an angle less than 45°. RECOMBING ¡ A second combing of A second combing of worsted worsted tops for tops for removing vegetable removing vegetable particles that were not particles that were not removed by the first combing. removed by the first This process improves the combing. ease with which the tops may be handled in further processing. RECOMMENDED o The percentage that, The percentage that, in the calculation of commercial ALLOWANCE in the calculation of commercial mass of mass of textile material and of yarn linear density is textile material and of yarn linear density is added to the oven-dry mass. The determination of this added to the oven-dry mass may or may not have mass. been preceded by washing to remove natural or added oils and dressings. The recommended allowance is arbitrarily chosen according to commercial practice and includes the moisture regain. It may also include the normal finish that is added to impart satisfactory textile qualities to the material. RECONSTITUTED fibers, Fibers produced from Fibers produced from FIBERS filaments, recovered waste recovered waste polymer or yarns polymer blends of virgin polymer and recovered waste polymer. RECOVERABLE o In rope, elongation In rope, elongation which ELONGATION which may be may be reclaimed after a reclaimed after a period of relaxation. period of relaxation. RECOVERED WOOL v SeeReused wool. SeeReused wool. RECOVERY fibers, ability of a yarn or The ability of a yarn or fiber filaments, fiber to return to its to return to its original length yarns original length after it has been stretched. RECYCLED WOOL v The resulting fiber The resulting fiber when wool



744 Word



Category



REDEPOSITION



processes, operations



REDOUBLING



¡



REDUCTION



¡



REDUCTION CLEARING



processes, operations



REED



F



Short description Description when wool has been has been woven or felted into woven or felted into a a wool product which, without wool product ever having been utilized in any way by the ultimate consumer, subsequently has been made into a fibrous state, or the resulting fiber when wool or reprocessed wool has been spun, woven, knitted, or felted into a wool product which, after having been used in any way by the ultimate consumer, subsequently has been made into a fibrous state. 1. The tendency of soil, The tendency of soil, already removed from already removed from the fabric and being in the fabric and being in suspension to go back suspension to go back on the fabric, thus lowering the on the fabric, fabric’s retention of whiteness. 2. In laundering of fabrics, deposition of soil, dirt or grime on fabrics when the wash water has a high percentage of dirt, etc. that has already been removed in washing An operation combined with An operation ‘doubling’ that is necessary in combined with making even, uniform yarn. ‘doubling’ that is See Dou-bling. necessary in making even, uniform yarn. In textile technology, this In textile technology, term is confined to the this term is confined to the removal of oxygen removal of oxygen from a from a substance, or substance, or the addition of hydrogen the addition of hydrogen Removal of unfixed Removal of unfixed dyestuff, dyestuff usually disperse, by alkali/reducing system, usually sodium hydroxide/sodium dithionite. In a loom, a comb-like In a loom, a comb-like wired wired frame through frame through which warp which warp yarns yarns pass. Each partition is pass. a ‘dent’. It separates the warp



745 Word



Category



Short description



REED GRATINGS



F



Transparent plates containing lines that are parallel and uniformly spaced in the cross-wise direction.



REED MARK



t



Fabric defect in woven fabrics.



REED NUMBER



F



REED OMBRÉ



The number of dents per unit length of the reed. processes, A woven ombré effect operations produced in the reed



REED RAKE



t



REED WIDTH



I



REEDINESS



t



A defect in fabric similar to a pin scratch. The width of the warp as it lies in the loom prior to the weaving. Fabric defect.



Description yarns and is used during weaving to beat-up the weft yarn into the cloth after each passage of weft yarn across the loom Transparent plates containing lines that are parallel and uniformly spaced in the cross-wise direction. By placing an appropriate grating on a reed it is possible to see if there is any irregularity in the spacing of the reed wires. Reed gratings can also be used for counting the number of reed wires per unit distance. See also Parallel line gratings. Fabric defect in woven fabrics. A crack, streak, line, or mark between groups of warp ends, either continuous or at intervals. Caused mainly due to crowded dents, open dents, improper warp tension, worn out reed, loose reed wires, incorrect reeding, etc. The number of dents per unit length of the reed. A woven ombré effect generally produced in the reed by a variation in warp pattern from open to close and then from close to open. Appears almost as shading running warpwise. A defect in fabric similar to a pin scratch. The width of the warp as it lies in the loom prior to the weaving. Fabric defect. A noticeable grouping of warp threads due to the reed wires producing



746 Word



REEDING PLAN



REEDY CLOTH



REEDY WARP REEL



REEL DYEING



REELED SILK



REELING



Category



Short description



Description warp-way cracks. It can be caused by the use of a reed unsuited to the fabric construction employed. I Also called Denting Also called Denting plan, plan, Sleying plan. Sleying plan. A plan indicating the arrangement of warp yarns into the reed dents, in one weave repeat. defects A defective fabric that A defective fabric that shows shows reed marks. reed marks. There are several causes such as drawing an insufficient number of warp yarns through each dent, too heavy a reed, improper finish, irregular reeding. t See Reed mark. See Reed mark. v See Hank. 1. See Hank. 2. A cylindrical former, usually flanged, suitable for use with domestic sewing machines, onto which sewing thread is wound. 3. The revolving drum, mill or swift of a section warping machine. processes, A form of open box A form of open box dyeing operations dyeing used especially for light fabrics to avoid tension on the goods or for crêpe to avoid flattening. Also used on woolen goods fibers, Raw silk wound Raw silk wound directly from filaments, directly from the the cocoons into skeins. The yarns cocoons into skeins yarn has only a slight twist, and has not yet been twisted or thrown. Raw silk is usually marketed in this form 1. The process of unwinding ¡ The process of raw silk from the unbroken unwinding raw silk cocoons, which have been from the unbroken placed in hot water, and cocoons, which have been placed in hot reeling filaments from several cocoons as a single thread, water without any twist, held firm by the natural gum which coats



747 Word



Category



Short description



REELING MACHINE



F



Also called Hanking machine. A revolving frame onto which a number of hanks or skeins or reels of yarn are wound simultaneously.



REFINE



I



Description the silk filaments. This is the first process in preparing silk yarn. 2. Unwinding of yarn from bobbins or cones, etc. and rewinding it in the form of a skein or hank. Also called Hanking machine. A revolving frame onto which a number of hanks or skeins or reels of yarn are wound simultaneously. The frame normally comprises a number of parallel bars, some of or all of which are collapsible to facilitate removal of the wound hank, mounted circumferentially on a cylindrical form. Traversing yarn guides provide a pattern which enables the hank to be leased so that it can be unwound without entanglement after storage or, e.g. wet processing. A napped woolen fabric of fine quality, mainly used for livery. Any treatment, such as steaming and pressing, given to a textile fabric to restore the finish. The deflection from a straight path undergone by a light ray in passing obliquely from one medium (as air) into another (as glass) in which its velocity is different.



A napped woolen fabric of fine quality, mainly used for livery. REFINISHING processes, treatment, such as operations steaming and pressing, given to a textile fabric REFRACTION o The deflection from a straight path undergone by a light ray in passing obliquely from one medium (as air) into another (as glass) in which its velocity is different. The ratio of the velocity of REFRACTIVE INDEX o The ratio of the velocity of radiation radiation (as light) in the first (as light) in the first of of two media to its velocity in the second as it passes from two media to its one into the other. velocity in the second as it passes from one into the other.



748 Word REFURBISH



Category Short description Description processes, To brighten or freshen To brighten or freshen up operations up and restore to and restore to wearability or wearability use by cleaning such as Dry cleaning, Laundering, or Steam cleaning. REGAIN v See Moisture regain. See Moisture regain. REGATTA I A striped cotton-type A striped cotton-type fabric fabric woven in 2/1 woven in 2/1 twill. The twill. pattern consists of fast-dyed color and white in warp stripes of equal width. The fabric has a white undyed weft. REGENERATED v See Rayon fiber, See Rayon fiber, Viscose CELLULOSE FIBERS Viscose fiber, Modal fiber, Modal fiber and Cupro fiber and Cupro fiber. fiber. REGENERATED v See under Fiber. See under Fiber. FIBER REGENERATED fibers, Fibers made from the Fibers made from the protein of peanuts, maize, soya PROTEIN FIBERS filaments, protein of peanuts, beans and milk. They all yarns maize, soya beans possess wool-like and milk characteristics of softness, warmth and resilience but it has not yet been found possible to produce a fiber of this type sufficiently strong to be used alone. Very little of this type of fiber is being manufactured in bulk A textile pattern consisting of REGIMENTAL I A textile pattern wide stripes of color different STRIPE consisting of wide from the ground of the fabric. stripes of color The colors of most of these different from the stripes were taken from ground of the fabric. colors of Britsh regiments. Used primarily for neck-wear and hat bands. REGINA I A fine cotton good A fine cotton good quality 2/1 quality 2/1 twill weave twill weave fabric. Two fold fabric. yarns may be used and the fabric is around 100 g/m2. REGISTERING ¡ See Pitching See Pitching REGISTRATION ¡ The correct fitting The correct fitting together of together of all areas all areas and colors in a and colors in a printed printed fabric fabric



749 Word Category REGULAR FINISHES I REGULAR TWILL



fabrics



REGULAR TWIST



v



REINFORCED HOSIERY



I



REINFORCED SEAM



REINFORCED TWILLS



fabrics



REJECTION NUMBER



o



RELATED SHDES



o



RELATIVE HUMIDITY



o



RELAXATION



¡



Short description Description See Basic finishes See Basic finishes under under Finish. Finish. A trade term for a twill A trade term for a twill weave weave that produces diagonal lines running 45º angles without any fancy figures. For cotton same as ‘Z’ For cotton same as ‘Z’ twist. twist. For wool, same as ‘S’ twist. Hosiery with a reinforced Hosiery with a reinforced heel and heel and toe knitted with an toe knitted with an extra and sometimes coarser yarn. A later development extra and sometimes has been the use of nylon coarser yarn. reinforcement in the toe and heel of both cotton and wool hose to increases the abrasion resistance. In sewn seams, a In sewn seams, a seam that seam that includes an includes an additional layer additional layer of of material on the face or material backside of the seam allowance. Combinations of Combinations of regular twill regular twill and plain and plain weaves. Generally weaves. warp-faced, with the twill line running from lower right to upper left. The fabrics are bleached or dyed and used for dresses. In acceptance sampling, the In acceptance minimum number of sampling, the nonconforming items in a minimum number of sample that requires the nonconforming items conclusion that the lot does in a sample not conform to specification. Colors of similar tone Colors of similar tone in the same or different depths of in the same or color. different depths of color. The ratio of the water The ratio of the water vapour vapour present in an present in an atmosphere to the amount present in a atmosphere to the amount present in a saturated atmosphere at the same temperature. It is saturated atmosphere generally expressed as a at the same percentage. temperature. Releasing of strains in Releasing of strains in textile



750 Word



Category



RELAXATION DIMENSIONAL CHANGE



I



RELAXED STATE



I



RELAXED YARN



v



Short description textile materials.



Description materials. 1. The relief of any strain present in fiber, yarn or fabric resulting from all stages of processing, nec-essary to impart dimensional stability to the final textile material. 2. An operation performed on a knitted sweater made of textured filament nylon yarn. This is a form of conditioning a fabric that is important to effective dyeing, shape, final appearance, and dimensional stability. Relaxation from tension is obtained by washing sweaters in a solution of soap and water or non-ionic detergent for five minutes at 90º F., then rinsing for two minutes. The dimensional The dimensional change that change that occurs occurs when a fabric is when a fabric is immersed in water without immersed in water agitation so that the strains without agitation and stresses put into fibers, yarns, or fabrics during previous processing stages such as spinning, weaving, or knitting, and finishing are relieved. In knit fabric, the dimensional in knit fabric, the dimensional state of a state of a fabric when the forces within the loop fabric when the forces structure are in equilibrium within the loop and it is considered that the structure are in fabric can consolidate no equilibrium more, without the application of force. A filament yarn of nylon or A filament yarn of polyester which has been nylon or polyester subjected to a yarn relaxation which has been treatment. The treatment subjected to a yarn imparts uniform dyeing relaxation treatment. characteristics to the yarn and an also reduces and equalizes shrinkage and torque.



751 Word Category RELEASING SLIDER F



Short description In zippers, a slider with a mechanical means for loosening the slider on the chain. In zippers, a device attached at or near the top of the stringer on the separable pin side which limits the travel of the slider at the open end of the chain under normal closing operations.



RELEASING STOP



F



RELIEF FABRIC



fabrics



Also known as Blister fabric and Cloqué fabric. A patterned ribbased fabric,



RELIEF PRINTING



¡



A method in which only the high parts of engraved plates are inked and printed



REMANUFACTURED WOOL



v



This is wool which has been used or processed before, as opposed to ‘virgin wool’ or ‘pure new wool’ which is wool being used for the first time.



Description In zippers, a slider with a mechanical means for loosening the slider on the chain. In zippers, a device attached at or near the top of the stringer on the separable pin side which limits the travel of the slider at the open end of the chain under normal closing operations. The slider may be forced beyond the releasing stop when added force is exerted towards the top of the zipper. Releasing stops are used on QR or QD zippers. Also known as Blister fabric and Cloqué fabric. A patterned rib-based fabric, the surface of which exhibits a characteristic relief or blister effect in which the number of loops in the relief portion is greater than in the surrounding area on the effect side and on the reverse side. The relief area may be of a different color from the main ground and the ground also is patterned. A method in which only the high parts of engraved plates are inked and printed. Opposite to intaglio printing. Also see Cameo printing and Surface printing. This is wool which has been used or processed before, as opposed to ‘virgin wool’ or ‘pure new wool’ which is wool being used for the first time. Wool and to some extent, hairs, have the capacity to be used more than once and in view of the cost of new wool, this is a distinct practical



752 Word



Category



Short description



Description advantage which is not shared by any other textile fiber type. There are three main sources of raw materials for this industry: Shoddy: Fibers obtained by shredding ‘soft’ rags, i.e. knitted or loosely woven wool fabrics. Mungo: Fibers obtained by shredding ‘hard’ rags, i.e. closely woven or thick heavily milled fabrics. Noils: The shorter fibers of the wool staple extracted during the worsted combing process. The rags used to obtain shoddy and mungo fibers are either old fabrics or new clippings but in re-ducing the rags to fibers there is considerable fiber damage and breakage. These fibers then are short, and vary considerably in thickness and quality and lack the full qualities of resilience and softness which new wool possesses. Noils are better in that the fibers are merely shorter than aver-age and not damaged, but they are not fully representative of the quality of wool from which they were extracted. Due to the shortness of shoddy and mungo fibers they would be difficult to hold securely in a yarn and would easily be rubbed out in use so that the fabric would gradually disintegrate in wear. It is easy to see therefore how the term shoddy came to represent something poor in quality. These fibers are mostly



753 Word



Category



REMBRANDT RIB



I



REMNANTS



I



RENAISSANCE CLOTH



I



RENAISSANCE LACE



I



REP REP STITCH



I



Short description



Description blended with new wool to prevent rapid loss of fibers. In this use they are a valuable contribution to the textile industry because if they are skillfully used, attractive medium and low priced woolen fabrics can be made which have sufficient durability, particularly for fashion garments. Fabrics so made are not obviously inferior and at present state of legislature can be la-belled ‘all wool’ in many countries. Hair noils can be used as a fiber content in a fabric and labelled as the hair so that the fiber name in itself on the label is no clear guarantee of quality. Many coun-tries demands clear labeling distinguishing between new, re-used, and re-processed fibers. A knitted vertical-rib A knitted vertical-rib effect in effect in women’s women’s hosiery made by hosiery alternating five drop stitches and one inch of plain knitting. In the marketing of textile In the marketing of textile material, those material, those accumulated short odd lengths of cloth, accumulated short odd lengths of cloth, remaining from original fulllength piece. See also Fents. remaining from original full-length piece. A French term for A French term for fabric fabric made from made from reclaimed wool. reclaimed wool. Motifs joined by a Motifs joined by a variety of variety of stitches. stitches. See Repp. See Repp. A canvas stitch that is A canvas stitch that is worked vertically on worked vertically on doubledouble-thread canvas. thread canvas. Also called Aubusson stitch. See also Canvas stitch.



754 Word REPCO PROCESS



Category ¡



REPEAT



I¡



REPELLENT



general



REPOUSSÉ



fabrics



REPP



fabrics



REPPING



t



Short description See under False twisting. IN WEAVING. A pattern which is repeated in the fabric weave.



Description See under False twisting.



1. IN WEAVING. A pattern which is repeated in the fabric weave. 2. IN PRINTING. The exact reproduction of any unit of design placed in an accurate geometric rela-tionship to it. An example for this is the Square Repeat. Possessing the Possessing the property of property of resistance. resistance. Special finishes impart various types of repellency to textiles, e.g. water repellency, stain, oil, and moth. A hammered or A hammered or pressed pressed pattern effect. pattern effect. Also called Rep. Usually a Also called Rep. heavy or medium fabric with Usually a heavy or a very prominently medium fabric with a pronounced rib. The true very prominently repp, which is now not pronounced rib. commonly made, was a plain weave fabric made with two warps, one fine and one coarse, the yarns arranged alternately and the fine warp more heavily tensioned than the coarse. Two wefts are used, one fine, one coarse alternately and the weave arranged so that the coarse warp was always lifted over the coarse weft. This gave very prominent ribs. More usually the term repp is given to almost every fabric of the plain weave type having prominent ribs, made on the plain weave fine warp and thicker weft principle and of a coarser and heavier construction than poplin, faille and poult. Fabric defect. Fabric defect. The unintentional introduction into



755 Word



Category



REPRESENTATIVE SAMPLE



o



REPROCESSED WOOL



RESERVE DYEING RESIDUAL DRAW RATIO RESIDUAL ELONGATION (RE)



Short description



Description a woven fabric of a bar in which a prominent weftwayrib effect is evident. This fault is often associated with standing places and is the result of differential relaxation of the upper and lower sheets of warp while the loom is standing. A sample taken such that every individual in the parent population has the same chance of being included in the sample



A sample taken such that every individual in the parent population has the same chance of being included in the sample Woolen fibers obtained from fibers, Woolen fibers existing knitted or woven filaments, obtained from existing garments, which, however, yarns knitted or woven have never been worn by the garments consumer. These are now very rare, as it is difficult and very expensive to reprocess blends. ¡ Same as Resist Same as Resist dyeing. dyeing. v See under Draw ratio See under Draw ratio v



RESIDUAL SHRINKAGE



I



RESIDUAL TORSION



v



RESIDUE



v



In rope, the elongation remaining after the rope has been stabilized at a designated load level. The percentage of shrinkage that remains in the fabric after it has been subjected to a shrinking process.



Revolutions made by a specified length of cord when one end is held in a flexed position and the other allowed to turn freely. In plumage, quill pith,



In rope, the elongation remaining after the rope has been stabilized at a designated load level. The percentage of shrinkage that remains in the fabric after it has been subjected to a shrinking process. Frequently used to mean just the percentage that the material will shrink when washed. Revolutions made by a specified length of cord when one end is held in a flexed position and the other allowed to turn freely. In plumage, quill pith, quill



756 Word



Category



Short description Description quill fragments, trash, fragments, trash, or foreign or foreign matter. matter. RESILIENCE fibers, That property of a That property of a material by filaments, material by virtue of virtue of which it is able to do work against restraining yarns which it is able to do forces during return from a work against restraining forces deformed state, i.e. the ability to recover from deformation. High resiliency is a natural property of wool and silk. Staples that are not inherently resilient can be chemically treated to resist creasing and crushing. RESIST DYEING processes, Also called Reserve Also called Reserve dyeing. Yarns are treated with a operations dyeing. Yarns are resist dye, then woven with treated with a resist untreated yarn into a fabric dye, which is subsequently piece dyed. Washing removes the resist material, leaving a fabric with white and colored threads. A contrasting color may also be applied with the resist agent for two-tone effects RESIST STYLE processes, The process by which The process by which a operations a pattern is produced pattern is produced by dyeing by dyeing after painting or printing the cloth with a mechanical resist (such as wax or clay), or chemical resist (such as an acid). In this method of printing, the RESIST STYLE ¡ In this method of pattern area is painted or PRINTING printing, the pattern stamped with a ‘resist’ made area is painted or stamped with a ‘resist’ from rice paste, clay or some made from rice paste, type of wax. Then the cloth is clay or some type of dyed, so leaving the pattern areas reserved in white wax. against a dyed background. Yarn that has been treated RESIST-DYED YARN I Yarn that has been treated with tannin, a with tannin, a mordant, etc. to mordant, etc. to repel repel the dyestuff to be used. The result should be a the dyestuff to be harmonious effect. used. RESISTANCE TO I See Splitting See Splitting resistance. SPLITTING resistance.



757 Word RESISTANCE TO YARN SLIPPAGE



RESORPTION



RESTORATION FORCE



RESULTANT YARN NUMBER



Category



Short description The force required to separate the parts of a standard seam by a specified amount. ¡ The process by which a material that has given material by desorption takes up some more of the material given. I The energy brought to bear on a fabric to accomplish a dimensional restoration. fibers, The yarn number filaments, based on the yarns observed mass per unit length of a plied yarn



RETAINER PIN



F



In zippers, a tube-like element, similar to the separable pin



RETEXTURING



¡



The passage of an already textured yarn through a further texturing processes



RETICELLA LACE



I



A very early type of needlepoint lace.



RETTING



processes, The process of operations decomposing woody



Description The force required to separate the parts of a standard seam by a specified amount. The process by which a material that has given material by desorption takes up some more of the material given. The energy brought to bear on a fabric to accomplish a dimensional restoration.



The yarn number based on the observed mass per unit length of a plied yarn, a cabled yarn, or a yarn whose number has been changed by processing such as twisting or bulking. In zippers, a tube-like element, similar to the separable pin, attached over the bead at the bottom end of the stringer opposite to the separable pin and that is designed to hold the fixed retainer in position. 1. The passage of an already textured yarn through a further texturing processes. The second textur-ing process may be the same type of process or different from the first texturing process. 2. A process for treating drycleaned garments, etc., to improve their handle, etc A very early type of needlepoint lace. It was a combination of drawn-thread lace work and cut-work. The process of decomposing woody and gummy matter



758 Word



REUSED WOOL



Category



Short description and gummy matter



fibers, Also called Recovered filaments, wool yarns



REVERSE



I



A coarse, loosely woven, wool fabric with napped face, similar to flannel.



REVERSE BLEND



I



Mostly used in denim warp yarn.



REVERSE CRÊPE



I



A fabric generally of filament yarn, made with a crêpe yarn



Description surrounding the bast fibers of a flax plant stalk and extracting flax fiber from it. The crop or deseeded straw are subjected to chemical or biological treatment to make fiber bundles more easily separable from the woody part of the stem. Also called Recovered wool. Fibers obtained from garments worn by consumers. The cast off apparel finds its way to the garnetting plant, where the material is returned to the fibrous stage. Shoddy and mungo are the names applied to the unfelted and felted fiber residue following the garnetting operation, which breaks up the garments and produces the fibers 1. A coarse, loosely woven, wool fabric with napped face, similar to flannel. Used for inexpensive clothing. 2. Synonym for the back of the fabric. Mostly used in denim warp yarn. A blend of 75% cotton and 25% polyester. When the yarns are spun, the cotton fibres tend to be at the outside of the yarn. A 35/65 blend is used in boys’ and young men’s jeans. The warp provides the color and hand of the denim; a spun weave makes the fabric appear like all-cotton. In reverse blending the natural fibber (cotton or wool) has the predominant concentration. A fabric generally of filament yarn, made with a crêpe yarn warp and a flat yarn filling.



759 Word



Category



Short description warp and a flat yarn filling. A weft-knitted ribbased fabric in which the design on the effect side is reversed on the other side by alternation of the two component threads between the two sides. A pattern area of weftknitted fabric with the reverse side outwards



REVERSE JACQUARD



I



REVERSE KNIT



I



REVERSE LOCKNIT



I



A warp-knitted fabric of two-bar construction made with full-set threading.



REVERSE PLATING



¡



Patterns created in knit goods by controlling the feed of the yarns



REVERSE SIDE



I



The side of a weftknitted fabric opposite to the effect side.



REVERSE TOE



z



In hosiery, a form of toe



REVERSE TWILL WEAVES



fabrics



Broken, pointed, and similar twill weaves,



REVERSE TWIST



v



REVERSE WELT REVERSIBLE BONDED FABRIC



z I



Same as ‘S’ twist. See also Direction of twist See under Welt A bonded doublefaced cloth construction in which two face fabrics are



Description



A weft-knitted rib-based fabric in which the design on the effect side is reversed on the other side by alternation of the two component threads between the two sides. See also Double-faced jacquard. A pattern area of weft-knitted fabric with the reverse side outwards, knitted on machines having two sets of needles. A warp-knitted fabric of twobar construction made with full-set threading. The front bar makes a 1x1 movement and the back bar a 2x1 movement in opposition. Patterns created in knit goods by controlling the feed of the yarns in such a way that the position of a pattern is interchanged. The side of a weft-knitted fabric opposite to the effect side. See Plain fabric, Weftknitted. In hosiery, a form of toe in which the join between the toe and foot is on the underside of the foot. Broken, pointed, and similar twill weaves, i.e. twill weaves in which the twill line runs alternately in right-hand and left-hand directions. Same as ‘S’ twist. See also Direction of twist See under Welt A bonded double-faced cloth construction in which two face fabrics are bonded together so that either side



760 Word



Category



REVERSIBLE FABRIC



fabrics



REVERSIBLE TWILLS



I



REVOLVING SHUTTLE BOX REWETTING AGENT



F



REWORKED WOOL



v



RF HEATING



¡



RHE (Rhe)



o



RHEA



v



RHYTHM CRÊPE



fabrics



³



Short description Description bonded together so can be used. Stiffness that either side can be resulting from bonding limits used. the use to this fabric. A double-faced fabric A double-faced fabric that that can be used on can be used on either side. either side The design or texture generally is not the same on the face and back. A general term for fine, high A general term for fine, high count, plied count, plied yarn fabric made with combed cotton in an yarn fabric made with combed cotton in an even-sided four-harness twill in which the twill line runs even-sided fourharness twill in which from lower left to upper right. the twill line runs from The number of warp yarns per inch is about twice as lower left to upper great as the weft yarns. right. Egyptian, Pima and other superior grades of cotton are often used. Frequently dyed tan or olive drab and given a water-repellent finish for army field jackets, rain coats and windbreakers. See Circular shuttle See Circular shuttle box box A surfactant which A surfactant which find usage find usage in textile in textile preparation, dyeing preparation, dyeing and finishing. The surfactant, and finishing. which after application and drying onto textiles, promotes rapid wetting on subsequent exposure to an aqueous solution. See Reprocessed See Reprocessed wool and wool and Reused Reused wool. wool. See Radio frequency See Radio frequency heating. heating. The unit of fluidity; the The unit of fluidity; the reciprocal of the unit reciprocal of the unit of of viscosity (the viscosity (the poise). poise). A fiber better known A fiber better known as as Ramie or ChinaRamie or China-grass. grass. Name given to a fabric Name given to a fabric with



761 Word



Category



Short description with regularly spaced puckering.



RIB



fabrics



RIB FABRIC, WEFTKNITTED



I



Straight cord or ridge running warpwise or weftwise in a fabric. A fabric in which both back and face loops occur along the course, but in which all the loops contained within any single wale are of the same type, i.e. either face or back.



RIB FABRIC, WOVEN



I



RIB GAITING RIB JACQUARD



¡ I



Description regularly spaced puckering. Is made from viscose and resembles Seersucker Straight cord or ridge running warpwise or weftwise in a fabric. A fabric in which both back and face loops occur along the course, but in which all the loops contained within any single wale are of the same type, i.e. either face or back. Broad rib fabric, weft-knitted: A rib fabric in which groups of three or more adjacent wales are of the same type, either face or back. 6x3 rib fabric, weft-knitted: Also called Derby rib. A fabric in which all the loops of six adjacent wales are intermeshed in one direction and all the loops of the next three wales knitted at the same course are intermeshed in the opposite direction, and so on alternately. 1x1 rib fabric, weft-knitted: Also called English rib. A rib fabric in which single wales of face loops alternate with single wales of back loops. 2x2 rib fabric, weft-knitted: Also called Swiss rib. A rib fabric in which two adjacent wales of face loops alternate with two adjacent wales of back loops in a series. A fabric whose surface consists of warp way (weft rib) or weftway (warp rib) raised lines or ridges.



A fabric whose surface consists of warp way (weft rib) or weftway (warp rib) raised lines or ridges. See under Gating. See under Gating. A weft-knitted A weft-knitted patterned ribpatterned rib-based based fabric, the surface of



762 Word



Category



RIB KNITTTING MACHINE



F



RIB TRANSFER



¡



RIB TRANSFER STITCH



¡



RIB VELVET



I



RIB WEAVE



fabrics



RIB WEFT KNITTED FABRIC



I



Short description Description fabric, the surface of which is essentially flat and which is essentially exhibits a figure or design in differing color or texture. The flat and exhibits a patterned surface is derived figure or design in from the chosen arrangement differing color or of yarns, and of knitted and texture. float loops. The back of the fabric may be made from either (a) plain or striped backing, or (b) Birdseye backing. Same as Double Same as Double jersey jersey knitting knitting machine machine In knitting, the process In knitting, the process of transferring the loops of one of transferring the loops of one course of course of a rib fabric on to the needles of a plain a rib fabric on to the machine in preparation for needles of a plain plain knitting machine in preparation for plain knitting In weft-knitting, a stitch made In weft-knitting, a by the transfer of the loop stitch made by the transfer of the loop from a needle in one set to a needle in another set, the from a needle in one latter having a loop already set to a needle in on it. It is an effect stitch. another set A rarely used name A rarely used name for for Corduroy. Corduroy. A variation of plain A variation of plain weave. weave. The rib effect may be either in the direction warp or the weft. The effect is produceed by having two or more successive ends or picks weave alike; i.e. ends alternating under and over two or more picks, or picks alternating under and over two or more ends. Ribs may also be produced by employing coarser yarn for the rib than for the ground. A construction in A construction in which all which all the loops in the loops in any one wale are any one wale are all all the same, either back the same, either back loops or face loops. However



763 Word



Category



RIBBED HOSIERY



I



RIBBON



w



RIBBON EMBROIDERED LACE



I



RIBBON LOOM



F



RIBBONING RIBBONZINE



t z



Short description loops or face loops



Description the loops are mixed back and face within the fabric. The appearance of the fabric is reminiscent of animal ribs, hence the name A class of hosiery A class of hosiery produced produced on knitting on knitting machines machines employing employing the Rib stitch. the Rib stitch. Heavier than fine-gauge hosiery, but possessing greater elasticity. A narrow fabric, usually A narrow fabric, usually woven, and woven, and generally with a continuous filament warp in a generally with a variety of styles for continuous filament decorative and functional warp in a variety of uses. Ribbon may also be styles for decorative and functional uses. made by slitting broad fabric. The product may have a fused edge. Usually ribbons are woven fabrics less than 4 inches (100 mm) wide. The French term ‘ruban’ and German ‘band’ are sometimes incorrectly translated as ribbon but are terms which embrace a wider range of woven fabrics including elastic, tape and webbing. See also Narrow fabric and Tape A very elaborate fabric A very elaborate fabric of lace background with of lace background matching narrow ribbon with matching narrow ribbon crushed and crushed and stitched in scroll designs on the right side of stitched in scroll designs on the right the lace. The ribbon is likely to be nylon or polyester to side of the lace. avoid crushing. The lace could be almost any fiber. A machine for making A machine for making narrow narrow fabrics. fabrics. See Winding pattern See Winding pattern Non-woven ribbon Non-woven ribbon made by made by binding silk binding silk or rayon warp or rayon warp with with adhesive and finishing adhesive and finishing with high luster. Made in solid



764 Word



Category



Short description with high luster.



RIC-RAC BRAID



I



RICE RICE BRAID



F w



A flat braid made by tensioning component threads differently so that the fabric forms a zig-zag shape. See Swift A braid consisting of a core yarn having alternately thick and thin places entirely covered with fine yarn wound around



RICE CLOTH



fabrics



RICE NET



I



RICE WEAVE



I



RICHELIEU



I



A plain weave, cotton dress fabric made with hard spun warp and a fine, nubby novelty yarn



Description colors, in various widths. Used for tying packages. A flat braid made by tensioning component threads differently so that the fabric forms a zig-zag shape. See also Van Dyke braid. See Swift A braid consisting of a core yarn having alternately thick and thin places entirely covered with fine yarn wound around. Generally made of white cotton yarn, also in colors. Used for trimming and fancywork A plain weave, cotton dress fabric made with hard spun warp and a fine, nubby novelty yarn that produces effects resembling grains of rice on the face of the material. Made in solid colors and prints. Similar to a fine Ratiné. Woven of coarse cotton thread stiffened by sizing and used as hat foundations.



Woven of coarse cotton thread stiffened by sizing and used as hat foundations. A variation of simple A variation of simple six-end six-end and eight-end and eight-end twill weaves formed by a decortication twill weaves formed method. by a decortication method. An openwork fabric An openwork fabric made in made in imitation of imitation of hand embroidery of the same name. The hand embroidery of designs are geometric, the the same name. embroidery may be in a yarn which matches or contrasts with the backing fabric. The fibers used may be cotton, viscose, polyester, modal or a mixture of fibers. It is a medium-weight crisp fabric. Used for blouses, dresses, and children’s dresses. Also



765 Word



Category



Short description



RIDGED WEAVE



t



Fabric defect. A streak or mark in the direction of the filling, sometimes visible at regular intervals in the woven cloth.



RIDGY CLOTH RIG



RIGGING



t See Wavy cloth. processes, To fold wide fabrics in operations the center and wind on bolt or roll,



¡



Description used effectively in small areas, such as yokes or pockets, with a plain matching or contrasting fabric. Fabric defect. A streak or mark in the direction of the filling, sometimes visible at regular intervals in the woven cloth. This is due to slack warp or to some obstruction that hinders the passage of the filling bobbin through the loom’s shed. See Wavy cloth. To fold wide fabrics in the center and wind on bolt or roll, rather than having them flat on a much wider roll or bolt. The lengthways folding of fabric so that the folded material is half its original width.



The lengthways folding of fabric so that the folded material is half its original width. RIGHT - HAND TWILL fabrics A twill weave which A twill weave which produces produces a diagonal a diagonal line or twill line running from lower left to upper right. Approximately 80% of all twills made are of the right-hand type. RIGHT SIDE I See Face side. See Face side. RIGHT TWIST v Same as ‘Z’ twist. See Same as ‘Z’ twist. See under under Direction of Direction of twist twist RIGHT-HAND TWILL I A twill weave which A twill weave which produces produces a diagonal a diagonal line or twill line or twill running running from lower left to from lower left to upper right. Approximately upper right. 80% of all twills made are of the right-hand type RIGID RAPIER apparatus, A stiff rod-like rapier A stiff rod-like rapier used to equipage, used to insert filling. insert filling. tools RING t Also called Denier 1. Also called Denier variation, Horizontal variation, Horizontal line, line, Yarn variation. Yarn variation. Fabric defect



766 Word



Category



RING BOBBIN



v



RING DOUBLING RING SPINNING



Short description Fabric defect in hosiery.



A bobbin of yarn as spun on a ringspinning machine. ¡ See Ring twisting processes, A system of spinning operations



RING TUBE



v



The yarn package wound on ring tube in the spinning machine during ring spinning. Also called Down twisting.



RING TWISTING



¡



RINGLESS



I



Hosiery knitted in such a way as to eliminate shadowy rings of color around the leg



RINGS, KNITTING



t



A defect characterized by clouded or mottled area around a



Description in hosiery. A nar-row, visually different horizontal band, caused usually by variation in yarn size, dye absorption, or luster. 2. See under Swealing A bobbin of yarn as spun on a ring-spinning machine. See Ring tube. See Ring twisting A system of spinning wherein drafting the roving, twisting the yarn and winding it on the bobbin, proceed simultaneously and continuously. Ring frames are suitable for spinning all counts upto 150s, usually give a stronger yarn and is more productive than the mule spinning frame. The yarn package wound on ring tube in the spinning machine during ring spinning. See Ring bobbin Also called Down twisting. A system of producing folded yarn by twisting together two or more single yarns using ring-and-traveler as the twisting technique. The terms ‘ring twisting’ and ‘down twisting’ are also used when the same technique is employed to increase or decrease the twist in a single yarn. Hosiery knitted in such a way as to eliminate shadowy rings of color around the leg. This is accomplished by not knitting any two courses of the consecutive courses from the same cone of yarn. A defect characterized by clouded or mottled area around a stocking, usually



767 Word



Category



Short description Description stocking caused by uneven yarn. RINSE processes, To cleanse an article To cleanse an article with operations with water after water after washing. washing. Successive additions of fresh water are used to remove dirt, soil, detergents, etc. that have accumulated in the washing equipment. RIP-OUT t See Pick-out mark. See Pick-out mark. Fully mature cotton that is RIPE COTTON v Fully mature cotton particularly suitable for that is particularly spinning into yarn. suitable for spinning into yarn. RIPENESS v See under Cotton See under Cotton maturity maturity 1. A process employed for RIPENING ¡ A process employed stiff, wiry carpet wools to for stiff, wiry carpet wools to prepare them prepare them for carding. The fibers are sprayed with for carding. oil, and remain in this state for several days or weeks so that the oil penetrates the fibers, softening them to make them easier to work. 2. A process in viscose rayon manufacture in which the spinning solution is stored for a specific period of time to allow it to achieve the proper character for spinning (extrusion through spinnerets). RIPPED SELVEDGE t See Cut selvedge. See Cut selvedge. The operation of removing RIPPING ¡ The operation of cotton or man-made fiber removing cotton or linings from garments prior to man-made fiber linings from garments the sorting and classification of rags. prior to the sorting and classification of rags. RIPPLE CLOTH fabrics Inexpensive, plainInexpensive, plain-weave, weave, medium medium weight, soft fabric weight, soft fabric that has been slightly brushed on both sides and then forcibly wrinkled to give it a wavy or rippled surface. Both treatments add warmth. Fabric may be made from



768 Word



Category



Short description



RIPPLE, WEFTKNITTED



I



WELT RIPPLE: A held-loop fabric, made on two sets of needles



RIPPLING



processes, Combing process for operations removing the leaves and seed



RISER



o



RIVÈRE



¡



ROAD MEMBRANE



I



ROBIA VOILE



I



In weaving, a filled-in square on design paper which indicates lifting of an end. A French term for openwork effect produced by embroidering over or drawing together the threads left in a drawn work foundation. Any coarse, plain weave, open cotton fabric used to reinforce asphalt surfaced roads, airport runways, and ditches.



Description wool, but is more likely to be acrylic or from cotton and therefore inflammable; in plain colors only. Used for dressing gowns and bed jackets 1. WELT RIPPLE: A heldloop fabric, made on two sets of needles by selective knitting and missing on one set and continuous knitting on the other and featuring roll or weave effects on the fabric side. 2. TUCK RIPPLE: A fabric, made on one set of needles, featuring raised effects that are developed by selective knitting and tucking, tuck loops being accumulated in alternate wales Combing process for removing the leaves and seeds from the dried stalks of the flax plant in preparation for retting. In weaving, a filled-in square on design paper which indicates lifting of an end. A French term for openwork effect produced by embroidering over or drawing together the threads left in a drawn work foundation.



Any coarse, plain weave, open cotton fabric used to reinforce asphalt surfaced roads, airport runways, and ditches. Osnaburgs were the preferred fabrics converted to this use but they have been to a large degree superseded by other processes. Also called ‘road cloth’. Trade name of a wide Trade name of a wide variety



769 Word



Category



Short description variety of voile fabrics



ROBOTICS



¡



The complete replacement of human beings in a handling situation.



ROCK CORK ROCK WOOL



v v



A variety of asbestos Wool-like fibers made from molten slag or rock



ROCKET PACKAGE



v



A large version of a Super Cop



RODIER ROGUE’S YARN



I v



See Double piqué. A colored strand of worsted twisted in rope used by British navy.



ROLL WELT ROLL-BOILING



z ¡



ROLLED LATEX



v



ROLLED SEAMFINISH



Description of voile fabrics. In 100 % cotton, the voiles vary from satin stripes in various widths and colors to plain squareeffect weave with self-color woven spots. The complete replacement of human beings in a handling situation. The application of robotics to the making of garments proves very difficult because of the flexible nature of the materials. A variety of asbestos Wool-like fibers made from molten slag or rock by forcing a blast of steam through the liquid. Used for insulation jobs. A large version of a Super Cop, used as a means of supplying a coarse weft yarn to shuttleless weaving machines. It may be up to 800 mm in length and 75 mm in diameter. See Double piqué. 1. A colored strand of worsted twisted in rope used by British navy. 2. A yarn different from others in a cloth, inserted for identification. See under Welt. A comparatively short potting treatment at the boil.



See under Welt. A comparatively short potting treatment at the boil. A fine core thread A fine core thread which, which, when covered when covered with nylon, etc. with nylon, etc. is is used for foundation used for foundation garments, bathing suits, etc. garments, bathing It is first made in a flat strip, suits, etc. then rolled on itself to form the thread. A finish for the raw A finish for the raw edges of edges of the seam the seam allowances of a allowances of a plain plain seam, in which both raw



770 Word



Category



Short description Description seam, in which both edges are enclosed by rolling to one side and hand raw edges are enclosed by rolling to stitching close to the seam line. A rolled seam-finish is one side and hand made by (1) trimming the stitching close to the seam allowance to 10 mm. seam line. (2) rolling the seam allowances together with thumb and forefinger to one side so that raw edges are enclosed, and (3) hand stitching the rolled edge close to the seamline. ROLLED SELVEDGE t See Curled selvedge See Curled selvedge ROLLER FINISH ¡ See Venetian finish. See Venetian finish. ROLLER PRINTING processes, Also called Cylinder Also called Cylinder printing. A mechanical method of operations printing. A mechanical printing different colored method of printing patterns on cloth with, in different colored some cases up to sixteen patterns on cloth colors in one pass, in perfect register. The cloth, full width, passes under copper rollers around a large drum. The design is engraved on the copper rollers. Color paste, in the engravings of each roller, is pressed against the cloth. There is a separate roller for each color in the pattern. ROLLER ROCKER F See under Lace See under Lace Machines. MACHINE Machines. ROLLER-EMBOSSED vI A polymer film that A polymer film that has been FILM has been indented to indented to induce easy induce easy splitting splitting during subsequent during subsequent stretching. The indentations stretching. are produced by using a profiled embossing-roller and may be either longitudinal and followed by uniaxial stretching to produce individual filaments, or patterned and followed by biaxial stretching to produce a fine net. ROLLING ROCKER F See under Lace See under Lace machines. MACHINE machines.



771 Word Category ROLLING SELVEDGE t



ROMAINE



I



ROMNEY ARSH



v



ROOFING FELT



I



ROPE



w



Short description Description Fabric defect. Fabric Fabric defect. Fabric has has curled, buckled, curled, buckled, or rolled-up or rolled-up selvedge. selvedge. May be cut out by shearing, before the material is sent for finishing processes. A light weight fabric A light weight fabric having a having a dull lustre dull lustre and crêpe texture. and crêpe texture. The wool from this hardy The wool from this hardy breed of sheep breed of sheep is not as long is not as long nor as nor as lustrous as Cotswold lustrous as Cotswold or Linocln wool, however it is denser finer. There is much or Linocln wool, however it is denser variation in Romney, which shrinks about 30 %. finer. A felted fabric made of A felted fabric made of animal hair, coarse wool or animal hair, coarse asbestos treated with tar or wool or asbestos other suitable material and treated with tar or used for roofing. other suitable material and used for roofing. An article of cordage An article of cordage more than 4 mm in diameter more than 4 mm in obtained when (a) three or diameter obtained more strands are laid or when (a) three or more strands are laid plaited together, or (b) a core or plaited together, or is covered by a braided or (b) a core is covered plastic film sheath. Types of rope are: by a braided or plastic Braided rope: Also called film sheath. Sennit rope, Sinnet rope. A rope formed by braiding or plaiting the strands together. Cable laid rope: A rope formed by three or more ropes twisted to form a helix around the same central axis. The ropes that become the secondary strands are ‘S’ lay and the finished cable is ‘Z’ lay or vice versa. Combined rope: A rope in which the strand centres are made of steel and in which the outer por-tions of each strand are made from fibrous material.



772 Word



Category



ROPE BELTING



w



Short description



Description Double braided rope: A rope in which a number of strands are plaited to form a core and around which are plaited further strands to form a sheath. The core lies coaxially within the sheath. Eight-strand rope: A rope normally composed of 4 pairs of strands plaited in a double four strand round sennit. Hard Laid rope: A rope in which the length of lay of the strands and/or the rope is shorter than usual, resulting in a stiffer and less flexible rope. Hawser laid rope: A rope of three strands which are twisted to form helixes around the same cen-tral axis. Laid rope: A rope in which three of more strands are twisted to form helixes around the same cen-tral axis. See also Ordinary Lay. Shroud laid rope: A four strand rope with or without a core with the strands twisted to form a he-lix (round the central core, where present). Soft laid rope: A rope in which the length of lay of strands and/or the rope is longer than usual re-sulting in a more flexible rope which is easily deformed. Spring lay rope: A rope made with six strands over a main core, each strand of which has alternat-ing wire and fiber components laid over a fiber core. A belting generally made of A belting generally cotton ropes formed by made of cotton ropes formed by twisting twisting four stands around a four stands around a central core; each strand is covered in spiral fashion with central core;



773 Word



Category



Short description



Description ten twisted cords of cotton yarn that serve as a protective covering to the inner part of the rope, preventing contact and wear without interfering with flexibility or strength. ROPE FORM I Cloth that has been Cloth that has been permitted to close in on itself, for permitted to close in convenience in handling over on itself, for open width. convenience in handling over open width. ROPE MARK t Fabric defect in dyed Fabric defect in dyed or or finished fabrics. finished fabrics. A long irregularly shifting longitudinal mechanically induced streak, caused by abrasion marks occurring while wet-processing the fabric in rope form. ROPING v A term used for roving A term used for roving in the in the woolen system woolen system of spinning. of spinning. ROPING YARN v A yarn from which a A yarn from which a strand is strand is produced. produced. A Venetian needlepoint lace ROSE-POINT LACE I A Venetian needlepoint lace with with designs connected by a designs connected by thick thread. Is characterized, as the name suggests, by a thick thread delicate close flower or leaf designs. ROT RESISTANCE I Resistance to Resistance to deterioration of deterioration of a a textile material as a result textile material as a of fungal growth in or on it. result of fungal growth Such deterioration is in or on it. normally assessed by measuring loss in tensile strength. ROTARY KNIFE F A machine with a A machine with a circular CUTTING MACHINE circular rotating blade rotating blade, generally used for cutting straight lines or gradual curves in fabric lays of limited depth. ROTARY SCREEN processes, Printing from a Printing from a machine PRINTING operations machine equipped equipped with a set of with a set of cylindrical cylindrical screens - usually,



774 Word



Category



Short description screens



ROTOR



apparatus, equipage, tools



A machine part in open-end spinning machine.



ROTOR SPINNING



ROUGH



ROUGH DRY



processes, A method of open-end operations spinning which uses a rotor (a high speed centrifuge)



t



Fabric defect



Description but not always, placed in line along a horizontal print tableeach fitted with an integral squeegee and color-feed unit. A machine part in open-end spinning machine. A device resembling a centrifuge, in which the fibers are assembled and in which, by virtue of its rotation, real twist is inserted in the forming yarn. A method of open-end spinning which uses a rotor (a high speed centrifuge) to collect and twist individual fibers into a yarn. The fibers on entering the rapidly rotating rotor are distributed around its circumference and temporarily held there by centrifugal force. The yarn is withdrawn from the rotor wall and, because of the rotation of the rotor, twist is inserted. Fabric defect. A descriptive term for a fabric surface which has the feel of sandpaper. Laundry that is dried without smoothening or ironing.



processes, Laundry that is dried operations without smoothening or ironing. ROUGH PLACE t See Temple mark. See Temple mark. ROUGH SELVEDGE t See Loopy selvedge. See Loopy selvedge. ROUND HEEL z A fully-fashioned hose A fully-fashioned hose heel heel made by made by continuous knitting continuous knitting across the whole width with widening or narrowing. ROUND NECK z A collar on a jumper A collar on a jumper that COLLAR that encircles the encircles the lower part of the lower part of the neck neck, without being either loose or tight. ROUND TWILL fabrics A misnomer for fabric A misnomer for fabric with a with a rounded rib rounded rib effect made with effect a satin weave. ROVE v In jute processing, a In jute processing, a



775 Word



ROVING



ROVING COURSES



ROVINIG FRAME



ROWDY



ROWEY ROWS



Category



Short description Description continuous strand of continuous strand of spunspun-jute fiber having jute fiber having a spyndle a spyndle number of number of 50 or greater. 50 or greater. fibers, An indefinitely long, An indefinitely long, loose filaments, loose assemblage of assemblage of staple fibers, yarns staple fibers, drawn or rubbed into a single strand, substantially parallel and with very little twist, but capable of being drafted. In spun yarn systems, the product of the stage, or stages, just prior to spinning. In weft knitting. Additional ¡ In weft knitting. courses used in the Additional courses manufacture of knitted used in the manufacture of knitted articles either as protective courses or to facilitate articles either as handling in subsequent protective courses or to facilitate handling in operations. These courses are afterwards removed. Also subsequent called Hand-hold, Ravel operations. courses, Waste courses. F Any machine used in Any machine used in yarn manufacture, particularly in yarn manufacture, the cotton system, to reduce particularly in the the size of the sliver to cotton system, to reduce the size of the roving, even it, and insert a sliver to roving, even slight amount of twist. This it, and insert a slight classification includes those machines employed between amount of twist. the drawing and spinning processes t Fabric defect. The Fabric defect. The defect defect consist of consist of streaks in the streaks in the fabric. fabric. t See Uneven surface See Uneven surface 1. A term used in reference I A term used in reference to pile floor to pile floor covering, for the average number of tufts or covering, for the average number of loops per inch counted in the warpwise direction. tufts or loops per inch 2. A series of stitches, in counted in the warpwise direction. crocheting, knitting or netting worked from one side to the other in a straight piece of needlework.



776 Word ROYAL RIB



ROYAL TWILL



ROYLE



RUBBER



RUBBER CORE YARN



RUBBER SHEETING



Category I



Short description Description 1. WOVEN. A plain weave WOVEN. A plain fabric with a warp-way rib weave fabric with a produced by taped ends and warp-way rib a high weft sett. produced by taped 2. KNITTED. See Half ends and a high weft cardigan rib. sett. fabrics A term used for a two- A term used for a two-ply silk ply silk warp warp and fine cotton filling fabric used for dresses. I A closely woven silk 1. A closely woven silk fabric fabric with horizontal with horizontal ribs broken off at intervals, after a given ribs broken off at number of warp threads intervals, employing what is technically known as figured rib weaves for interlacing warp and filling. 2. An eight-harness silk fabric with about 250 ends and 100 to 140 picks per inch. Used for dresses and men’s waistcoats. fibers, A material that is A material that is capable of filaments, capable of recovering recovering from large yarns from large deformations quickly and deformations quickly forcibly, and can be, or and forcibly already is, modified to a state in which it is essentially insoluble (but can swell) in boiling solvent, such as benzene, methylethyl ketone, and ethanol-toluene azeotrope. A manufactured fiber in which the fiberforming substance is comprised of natural or synthetic rubber, including the following categories: v A core yarn made with A core yarn made with a core a core of round or of round or square cut square cut filaments filaments of rubber around of rubber which are wrapped, in one or both directions, one or more yarns of cotton, man-made fiber, etc. resulting in and elastic yarn. I A plain cotton fabric A plain cotton fabric with with heavy coating of heavy coating of cured



777 Word



Category



Short description cured rubber on one or both sides.



RUBBER THREAD COUNTS



v



The size or number of the thread depending on its cross-section



RUBBER, NATURAL



v



A raw material obtained from the sap (latex) of the rubber tree.



RUBBER, SYNTHTIC



fibers, filaments, yarns



RUBBERIZED



fabrics



RUBBING RUBBING FASTNESS



t general



RUCHE



w



An elastomeric substance which is synthesized from derivations of petroleum. Fabric which is impregnated with, or coated on one or both sides with, rubber compound, See Crocking A method of measuring the transfer of a colored fabric to a white cloth A narrow, woven or knitted heading (see under Fringe), usually having a very heavy multiple-thread weft passed through to form a skirt (see Loop ruche), normally about 25 mm wide over-all



Description rubber on one or both sides. Used in various weights in hospitals and for baby cribs The size or number of the thread depending on its cross-section, and expressed in parts of an inch, e.g. #50 is 1/50 of an inch in diameter. A raw material obtained from the sap (latex) of the rubber tree. Rubber is extruded, vulcanized, and slit into sheets. An elastomeric substance which is synthesized from derivations of petroleum. Its properties are similar to natural latex. Fabric which is impregnated with, or coated on one or both sides with, rubber compound, to make it water resistant or waterproof. See Crocking A method of measuring the transfer of a colored fabric to a white cloth when the two fabrics are rubbed together. A narrow, woven or knitted heading (see under Fringe), usually having a very heavy multiple-thread weft passed through to form a skirt (see Loop ruche), normally about 25 mm wide over-all. It is used generally in lieu of piping round upholstery cushions. Other types consist of a web, the centre one-third of which consists of a pile weave or other raised effect, which is sewn around a central core. Ruches are usually flanged, the flanged portion being for insertion into the seam of the article to which it is to be sewn.



778 Word



Category



RUCHED FABRIC



fabrics



Short description



Description Cauliflower ruche: A woven flat ruche, the weft of which provides a very heavy uncutpile effect on one side. The cross-section of a cauliflower ruche is almost semi-circular. It is sometimes called halfround ruche. Crimped loop ruche: A loop ruche, the weft for which has been passed through a crimping ma-chine. Cut crimped ruche: A cut ruche, the weft of which has been passed through a crimping machine. Cut ruche: A ruche woven or knitted in double width and cut down the middle. Knitted flat ruche: A ruche consisting of a loosely constructed warp-knitted web with an uncut-pile effect on one surface. Loop ruche: A ruche, the skirt of which is in the form of an uncut pile. Also called ‘Tape ruche’. Pile ruche: A ruche made as a woven flat ruche, but with pile-forming elements. Woven flat ruche: A ruche made from a narrow woven tape with warp patterning, but without pile forming elements. A warp-knitted, three A warp-knitted, three or fouror four-bar fabric bar fabric in which the front one, two, or three guide bars are part-set threaded and mis-lap while their warps are stopped so producing a discontinuous pleat in the form of small raised areas, the size, shape, and arrangement of which depend on the threading and lapping movement of the guide bars.



779 Word RUFFLING RUG



Category



RUG BACK



z



That part of a rug normally in contact with the floor.



RUG CUSHION



z



A sponge rubber or hair felt fabric placed under the rug



RUG WOOL



v



A wool yarn, generally woolen-spun, twisted six-fold



RUG, MAT



z



RUGGEDNESS TEST



o



RULING MILL



F



A textile floorcovering of predetermined shape and limited dimensions. An experiment in which environmental or test conditions are deliberately varied to evaluate the effect of such variations. In printing, a small mill which has scale lines raised in relief on its surface



RUN



vt



z



Short description A form of gathering Also called Mat.



Description A form of gathering Also called Mat. A textile floor covering of limited area which is complete in itself and is intended for use as partial covering of a floor, or another floor covering 1. That part of a rug normally in contact with the floor. 2. The underside of a rug as opposed to the use-surface. A sponge rubber or hair felt fabric placed under the rug to prevent the rug from slipping and to make the rug softer and more cushiony. A wool yarn, generally woolen-spun, twisted six-fold, the single thread before plying being not finer than 350 tex A textile floorcovering of predetermined shape and limited dimensions. An experiment in which environmental or test conditions are deliberately varied to evaluate the effect of such variations.



In printing, a small mill which has scale lines raised in relief on its surface, and which is used to transfer these lines on to the varnished surface of a copper cylinder. In the American 1. In the American woolen woolen system, the system, the number of 1600 number of 1600 yard yard lengths of yarn per lengths of yarn per pound; an indirect yarn pound numbering system generally used for yarns spun on the woolen system. 2. Fabric defect in knitted fabric. Also called Ladder. A series of dropped stitches.



780 Word



Category



Short description



RUN PROOF



fabrics



The ability to withstand runs.



RUN WOOL



v



The number of 1600 yard hanks, of wool yarn in a pound.



RUN-IN RATIO



The run-in ratio is a very important characteristic of the seam. The ratio between a given length of seam and the length of one of the threads consumed in creating it.



Description See also Dropped stitches. The ability to withstand runs. Especially used to describe a knitted construction of locked loops, which prevent runs The number of 1600 yard hanks, of wool yarn in a pound. A 4 run wool has 4 x 1600 or 6400 yards in one pound The run-in ratio is a very important characteristic of the seam. The ratio between a given length of seam and the length of one of the threads consumed in creating it. When the run-in is relatively large, the seam is perceptibly loose and the component fabrics can be separated when pulled laterally so that the seam ‘grins’. The extensibility of the seam along its length is, however, at a maximum. At the opposite extreme, with low run-in, the seam is perceptibly tight with little lateral movement between the components and reduced stretch along the seam. The run-in ratio in all types of seams is an absolute quantity that expresses three variables which can charaterise the geometric construction of a seam: - the density or frquency, i.e. number of stitches/cm; - the overall thickness of the components to be joined; - the tension of the thread at the time of construction. In a complex stitch involving several threads there will be several run-in ratios. The most useful ones involve the needle threads.



781 Word RUN-OF-THE-LOOM



Category I



RUN-RESIST



I



RUNNAGE



z



RUNNER



tz



RUNNING MARK RUNNING METRE/YARD



t I



RUNNING STITCH



RUNNING YARD



I



RUNNING-ON



¡



Short description Description Fabric ready for Fabric ready for shipment as shipment as it comes it comes from the loom. No from the loom. inspection is made and no weaving defects are eliminated Numerous varieties of Numerous varieties of runrun-resist resist constructions of knit constructions of knit fabrics are employed. A fabrics are employed. special knitting stitch, usually a displaced loop type, a locked loop, etc. Used in hosiery and various knit fabrics. Specific length Specific length especially of especially of cords cords and ropes. and ropes. Fabric defect, major, 1. Fabric defect, major, in in knitted fabric. knitted fabric. Caused by a broken needle, and will appear as vertical line. Most machines have stopping device to stop machine when this happens. See End out. 2. A long narrow length of textile floor covering finished on both ends. See Rope mark. See Rope mark. One metre/yard of One metre/yard of cloth, cloth, regardless of regardless of width in which it width in which it is is woven. woven. A short, even, and A short, even, and continuous hand-stitch, continuous handformed by passing the thread stitch, formed by through the material passing the thread alternately from top to through the material alternately from top to underside and vice versa. The stitch is used for underside and vice topstitching, fine seams, and versa. gathering. One yard (36 inches) One yard (36 inches) length of fabric regardless of width length of fabric of the cloth. regardless of width of the cloth. The placing of The placing of previously previously knitted knitted loops, or a selvage, loops, or a selvage, back onto the needles of a



782 Word



Category



RUPTURE



ot



RUSSEL CORD



I



RUSSIA BRAID



w



RUSSIAN TWILL



fabrics



RUSTY SILK



t



Short description Description back onto the needles knitting machine for the of a knitting machine addition of a further piece of for the addition of a knitting. The term is also further piece of used when an intermediate knitting transfer bar is used to run on to, as in placing the waistband and cuff ribs onto a straight bar knitting machine when knitting fully fashioned garments. The breaking or The breaking or tearing apart tearing apart of a of a material. (Compare material. (Compare Failure.) Failure.) A ribbed fabric made A ribbed fabric made with a with a cotton warp and cotton warp and worsted worsted filling filling; two warp ends are woven together to form the cord. The rib lines run warpwise. Two or more adjacent 1. A narrow braid with two braids interlaced to cores side by side, covered form stripes. with fine yarns, which go backwards and forwards over one core and under the other as a continuous figure 8. 2. Two or more adjacent braids interlaced to form stripes. A fine twilled wool A fine twilled wool dress dress fabric with a fabric with a clear finish, clear finish made with right hand twist yarn and dyed in the piece. Fabric defect. Fabric defect. Fine, brownish streaks seen in the weft of white or delicately colored silk fabric.



S Word SABLE



SABLÉ GROUND



Category fibers, filaments, yarns fabrics



Short description A dark brown luxury fur which is very hardwearing. A French term for a



Description A dark brown luxury fur which is very hardwearing. A French term for a



783 Word



Category



SACKING



fabrics



SADDENING



processes, operations



SADDLE SHOULDER



garments, made-ups, assemblies



SAFETY STITCH



seams, stitches



SAILCLOTH



fabrics



Short description block-printed cloth which has tinypinned dots printed all over it before the printing of the main pattern. A general term applied to coarse fabrics, used mainly for making of bags or sacks.



Description block-printed cloth which has tiny-pinned dots printed all over it before the printing of the main pattern. Also called Sanded or Vermicular. A general term applied to coarse fabrics, used mainly for making of bags or sacks. They are often made of jute, hemp, flax or polyolefin, and the number of threads per centimetre may vary from 2 to over 12. See also Bagging Fabric A wool dyeing A wool dyeing process in process in which the which the mordant is mordant is applied applied after, instead of after, instead of before the dyestuff. before the dyestuff. The shape of the The shape of the junction junction between the between the sleeve and sleeve and the body the body of a garment of a garment where the line starts at the underarm, progresses as a set-in or raglan to a point approximately two thirds up the armhole, then changes to a line parallel to the shoulder itself. The sleeve head has a tongue projection to achieve this. Stitch formed by an Stitch formed by an overover-edge stitch, edge stitch, reinforced by a chain stitch (or reinforced by a chain stitch (or sometimes sometimes lockstitch), lockstitch), further in further in from the fabric edge. from the fabric edge. Firm ribbed fabric made Firm ribbed fabric from cotton, rayon made from cotton, usually, or polyester and rayon usually, or polyester and cotton cotton. In plain colours in plain or basket weave, Coarser and more



784 Word



Category



SALISBURY



fabrics



SALT AND PEPPER



fabrics



SALT SENSITIVITY



¡I



SAMITE



fibers, filaments, yarns general



SAMPLE



Short description



Description heavily ribbed than poplin but not as prominently ribbed as repp. Sailcloth is made in heavier weights than poplin and is used for dresses, blouses, children’s clothes, leisure wear, trousers and men’s summer jackets according to weight. It is usually resin finished and is stiff and hardwearing. Drape and pleats well but crease easily. Popular white Popular white English English flannel; made flannel; made of woollen of woollen yarn. yarn. It comes in varying weights. Fabric made of black Fabric made of black and and white ply yarns white ply yarns. Typical fabrics are tweed and homespun. See also Pepper and Salt 1. IN DYEING. The IN DYEING. The extent to which the extent to which the dyeing properties dyeing properties (especially on cellulosic (especially on cellulosic fibres) of a fibres) of a dye are afdye are af-fected, by fected, by the addition of a neutral electrolyte to the addition of a the dyebath. neutral electrolyte to 2. IN DYED FABRIC. the dyebath. The susceptibility of coloured material to change in colour when spotted with aqueous solution of neutral electrolytes. See Xamitum. See Xamitum.



A portion of a lot of material which is taken for testing or for record purposes.



1. A portion of a lot of material which is taken for testing or for record purposes. 2. A group of specimens used, or observations



785 Word



Category



Short description



SAMPLING PLAN



general



SAMPLING UNIT



general



SAND CRÊPE



fabrics



A procedure for obtaining a sample An identifiable, discrete unit or subunit of material that could be taken as part of a sample. A fabric with an irregular surface texture made from silk or man-made fibres.



SAND ROLLER MARKS



defects



Fabric defect.



SANDED SANDFLY NET SANDWICH BLENDING



fabrics fabrics processes, operations



See Sablé ground. See Bobbin net Mixing fibres from different package lots, units, or of different characteristics



Description made, which provide information that can be used for mak-ing statistical inferences about the population(s) from which they were drawn. See also Lot sample, Laboratory sample, and Specimen. A procedure for obtaining a sample An identifiable, discrete unit or sub-unit of material that could be taken as part of a sample. A fabric with an irregular surface texture made from silk or man-made fibres. It is heavier than ‘crêpe de chine’. The fabric is finished with the appearance of sand. Fabric defect. These marks run in the weft direction and may be caused by uneven tension and ‘pull’ on the cloth as it winds around the sand roller on the loom. Irregular tension between the sand roller and the cloth roller also causes these marks See Sablé ground. See Bobbin net Mixing fibres from different package lots, units, or of different characteristics by spreading them in two or more horizontal layers with all elements in the proper proportion when vertical sections are cut. Sections are fed to the



786 Word



Category



SANDWICH-PLATED FABRIC SANFORIZE PUCKER



fabrics



Short description



Description appropriate yarn-making machine. See under Plated fabric.



See under Plated fabric. defects Fabric defect, may Fabric defect, may be be major or minor. major or minor. Resulting from uneven wetting out on the sanforizor, usually defective spray heads. The fabric will appear wavy or puckering when spread on the cutting table. The trademark of a SANFORIZED fabrics The trademark of a controlled mechanical controlled shrinking process mechanical shrinking applied to cottons and process applied to other fabrics liable to be cottons and other washed a great deal. fabrics liable to be washed a great deal. Fabrics are shrunk by compressive shrinkage process. Sanforized fabric can be controlled to shrink not more than 1 % in laundering. Used mainly on shirt fabrics. SANFORIZED COTTON accessories See under Sew-in See under Sew-in woven SEW-IN woven interfacing. interfacing. SANFORIZING MARK defects Fabric defect. Also Fabric defect. Also called called Blanket mark. Blanket mark. A crimped, rippled, wavy, pebbled, or cockled place in the cloth showing distortion of the texture. A germicidal or SANITIZED fabrics A germicidal or bacteriostatic finish bacteriostatic finish applied to fabric, plastic applied to fabric, and other materials. plastic and other materials. SANSEVIERIA fabrics A fibre obtained from A fibre obtained from the the leaves of various leaves of various species species of plants of of plants of the genus the genus ‘Sansevieria’. ‘Sansevieria’. SAPONIFIED ACETATE fibers, A high-tenacity A high-tenacity acetate RAYON filaments, acetate rayon, which rayon, which is insoluble yarns is insoluble in in acetone and is dyed



787 Word



Category



SAPONIFIED CELLULOSE ACETATE



fibers, filaments, yarns



SARAN



fibers, filaments, yarns



SARI



Short description acetone and is dyed like viscose rayon. The saponified cellulose acetate filaments are made by heating cellulose acetate filament yarns in steam and stretching the softened yarn by 4 to 10 times its original length.



A manufactured fibre in which the fibreforming substance is any long chain synthetic polymer composed of at least 80 % by weight of vinylidene chloride units.



Also spelled ‘saree’ fabrics, garments, A term applied to the fabric woven made-ups, assemblies especially for saris.



Description like viscose rayon. The saponified cellulose acetate filaments are made by heating cellulose acetate filament yarns in steam and stretching the softened yarn by 4 to 10 times its original length. The stretched yarn is wound onto perforated bobbins and saponified by treatment with caustic soda solution. The resultant yarn of very fine filaments of regenerated highly oriented cellulose is then washed, oiled, dried and rewound. Very high ratio of strength to volume and excellent dimensional stability. A manufactured fibre in which the fibre-forming substance is any long chain synthetic polymer composed of at least 80 % by weight of vinylidene chloride units. It is a very strong fibre resisting dirt, chemicals, sunlight, etc. Used mainly for upholstery on public trans-port. Also spelled ‘saree’ 1. A term applied to the fabric woven especially for saris. 2. Sari is one of the best surviving examples of the ancient, purely draped women’s costume of the warm climates in which the garment is constructed entirely by drapingwithout cutting. Saris are



788 Word



Category



Short description



SARILLE



fibers, filaments, yarns



Trade name of a soft cellulose fibre, developed from viscose and used to produce warm fabrics.



SARONG



garments, A draped costume made-ups, consisting of a piece assemblies of fabric woven 5 m. to 7 m. long, usually of cotton, sometimes silk.



SARSNET RIBBON



accessories A ribbon constructed entirely in plain weave of very fine warp and weft and with high density, the weft density being higher than that of the warp. fabrics Originally a fine



SARSONET



Description woven of fine cottons, silks or even man-made fibres. They may be of printed or plain designs and are often decorated with metal threads on borders and ends. It can be worn in different ways. The pieces can be from 3.5 m. to 5 m. long depending on the style of draping. Now, fine expensive saris are hand-woven or machinemade in cotton or silk, while the less expensive saris are cut from long pieces. Trade name of a soft cellulose fibre, developed from viscose and used to produce warm fabrics. Mainly used in dress fabrics, household textiles such as blankets, and often mixed with other fibres, such as wool, to reduce the cost A draped costume consisting of a piece of fabric woven 5 m. to 7 m. long, usually of cotton, sometimes silk. Usually printed by the batik, block or warp print method or sometimes with woven design. Often made with fancy borders. A ribbon constructed entirely in plain weave of very fine warp and weft and with high density, the weft density being higher than that of the warp. A true sarsnet is made wholly of silk Originally a fine Arabian



789 Word



Category



SATEEN



fabrics



Short description Arabian fabric of silk, it is now a net or veiling fabric in millinery In pure sateen weaves, the surface of the cloth consists almost entirely of weft floats. Sateen is manufactured in many different types and weights. The standard curtain lining fabric is a good example of this type of fabric, made from cotton and given a schreiner finish to produce lustre. Most commonly used for linings. According to quality it is used as curtain lining or curtain fabric. Used for costumes for the stage and fancy dress. Soft and drapes well. It does not wear particularly well; seams tend to pull and crack-marks appear where hems are pressed. It is not often used as a dress fabric for these reasons.



Description fabric of silk, it is now a net or veiling fabric in millinery. Made from silk, nylon, or polyester. Regarded as a cheaper version of the satin. Sateen weave produces a weft-faced fabric by reversing the satin weave. However it is not a straightforward reversing of a satin weave because the fabric construction differs in that the weft yarns are more numerous and more closely set than the warp yarns here in order to give the necessary compactness of surface. The diagram shows a 5thread sateen structure. In pure sateen weaves, the surface of the cloth consists almost entirely of weft floats. Sateen is manufactured in many different types and weights. The standard curtain lining fabric is a good example of this type of fabric, made from cotton and given a schreiner finish to produce lustre. Most commonly used for linings. According to quality it is used as curtain lining or curtain fabric. Used for costumes for the stage and fancy dress. Soft and drapes well. It does not wear particularly well; seams tend to pull and crack-marks appear where hems are pressed. It is not often used as a dress fabric for



790 Word



Category



SATEEN FINISH



fabrics



SATIN



fabrics



Short description



Description these rea-sons. A highly lustrous finish A highly lustrous with a fairly crisp hand finish with a fairly crisp hand applied to applied to certain cotton certain cotton fabrics fabrics to imitate satin fabrics. to imitate satin fabrics. Fabric, that is very Fabric, that is very smooth and has lustrous smooth and has face on the right side lustrous face on the (although sometimes right side (although both sides are satin sometimes both weave). It originated as a sides are satin woven silk fabric and its weave). effect depends on a special construction. The smoothness is produced by a special satin weave which has long ‘floats’ of warp over weft. The warp is very closely set and there are usually at least twice as many warp yarns per cm than weft. This gives a close compact face predominantly warp. The interlacings of warp with weft should be completely hidden giving the fabric an apparently smooth featureless surface. See diagrams ‘5-thread satin’ and ‘8thread satin’ under Satin weave. The back of the fabric is comparatively dull in contrast. Satin-weave fabrics are made from all yarns, including silk, acetate, nylon, viscose, polyester, cotton Many different types and weights of satin are made for a wide variety of dress and lining use. Duchesse satin: Very smooth rather stiff-



791 Word



Category



Short description



Description handling satin, heavier in weight than the average dress satin, made with a very fine warp in an 8thread satin weave which may be silk, but is more likely to be viscose (see diagram under ‘satin weave’), usually with a non-lustrous fairly thick weft to give the requisite firm-ness. Used mainly for wedding-gowns and evening dresses. Double satin: Very expensive fine fabric made as the name suggests with a double satin weave so that both sides are lustrous - and may be different colours - and the weft is completely hidden. Crêpe satin: This features hard twisted weft yarns in alternate ‘S’ and ‘Z’ twist which cause a crinkling of the smooth surface giving a more subdued lustre. The satin weave is used in cotton and wool fabrics also, not primarily for lustre purpose but to produce a smooth surface, which can be suitably enhanced by finishing processes. See Drill and Doeskin. A satin type fabric is also produced by warp knitting by using long guide bar laps which gives the technical back of the fabric a smooth surface which is used as the face side for dress fabrics, often printed. The fabric surface is not



792 Word



Category



SATIN DRILL



fabrics



SATIN FINISH



fabrics



SATIN STITCH



seams, stitches



SATIN STRIPE



fabrics



SATIN STRIPES



fabrics



SATIN WEAVE



fabrics



Short description



Description so smooth and compact as the woven satin A drill fabric made A drill fabric made with a with a five-end satin five-end satin weave weave A smooth lustrous A smooth lustrous finish, finish, which may be which may be applied to applied to several several fabrics. The satin fabrics. weave is not necessarily employed. Embroidery done in Embroidery done in close parallel lines close parallel lines (stitches) over a (stitches) over a printed printed design design. Characterised by a satiny surface. May or may not be padded; if it is, called a ‘raised satin stitch’; if not, a ‘flat satin stitch’. Fabric of almost any Fabric of almost any fibre, including cotton, fibre, including that has a satin-weave cotton, that has a shiny stripe alternating satin-weave shiny stripe alternating with with contrasting stripe of a different weave of contrasting stripe of a thickness of yarn, even different weave of of a different colour thickness of yarn, even of a different colour A stripe in fabric A stripe in fabric formed formed by a satin by a satin weave. weave. One of the three One of the three basic basic types of weave, types of weave, the other the other two being two being Plain and Plain and Twill. Twill. Satin weaves are a group of structures designed to produce a smooth fabric surface without twill markings. The word satin creates a mental picture of a smooth lustrous fabric In the diagram of a 5thread satin weave, shown above, it will be seen that the face of the



793 Word



Category



Short description



Description fabric is predomi-nantly warp and each warp yarn passes over four weft yarns and under one. The interlacings do not form a rigid twill line; the warp yarns are set almost twice as closely as the weft yarns so that as the surface closes up the single weft interlacings are hidden between the warp floats in each side of them. This gives the illu-sion of a solid unbroken surface if the structure is correctly set, but creates a one-sided fabric in that the re-verse side is coarser in texture, and not smooth. Larger weaves give a smoother surface by enabling the weft interlacings to be hidden more efficiently but tend to produce loose fabrics unless the setting is very fine In the 8-thread version, shown above, the basic interlacing is 7 and 1. This is used only in more expensive fine fabrics because it would produce a very loose structure in a cheaper setting. These weaves are used extensively with filament yarns to obtain maximum lustre and smoothness. The long ‘floats’ of the interlacings expose the filaments to damage in making-up and wear. Satins are not very durable if subjected to much abrasion, unless made



794 Word



Category



SATIN, KNITTED



fabrics



SATIN-BACK



fabrics



SATIN-BACK CRÊPE



fabrics



SATINET WEAVE SATINETT



fabrics fabrics



SATURATION BONDING processes, operations



SATURATION REGAIN



SATURATION VALUE



SAWDUST CRÊPE



fibers, filaments, yarns processes, operations



fabrics



Short description



Description from very strong synthetic fibres, and cheap satins, which usually lack closeness, are subject to yarn slippage and ‘cracking’ of fabric The ‘sateen weave’ produces a weft-faced fabric. See Sateen A two-bar warp-knitted A two-bar warpknitted fabric in which fabric in which the frontbar underlaps are the front-bar arranged with a view to underlaps are producing a smooth arranged with a view surface. to producing a smooth surface. Any fabric of any Any fabric of any fibre fibre where the where the reverse side is reverse side is of of satin weave. See satin weave. Satin. See Satin-back See Satin-back crêpe. crêpe. See Satinett. See Satinett. A four-end irregular A four-end irregular satin satin or sateen or sateen weave. weave. A method of making A method of making nonwoven fabrics nonwoven fabrics in which the fibre web or batt is treated by overall application of an adhesive in liquid form. See also Adhesive bonded Non-woven fabric. The moisture in a The moisture in a material at 95 to 100 material at 95 to 100 % % relative humidity. relative humidity. The maximum quantity of The maximum a dye which can be quantity of a dye absorbed by a substrate which can be under defined conditions. absorbed by a substrate under defined conditions. A type of rayon fabric A type of rayon fabric made in a crêpe made in a crêpe



795 Word



SAXONY



SAXONY FINISH



SCAFFOLDING YARN



SCALE LINES



Category



Short description construction with a harsher hand than sand crêpe. FIBRE. The high grade Class One wool of the merino wool group.



Description construction with a harsher hand than sand crêpe. 1. FIBRE. The high fibers, grade Class One wool of filaments, the merino wool group. yarns, 2. YARN. A high grade, fabrics finely twisted knitting yarn used in the better type of fabrics. 3. FABRIC. A soft feeling, well finished flannel made from Saxony wool. Originally made in the province of Saxony, Germany, the name has come to be used to describe any soft, plain weave woollen or worsted cloth with a slight nap. High-grade yarns are used so the term always implies a good quality cloth. It may be plain or in small checks. fabrics A finish generally A finish generally applied applied to woollen to woollen fabric; the fabric; the cloth is cloth is fulled, stretched, fulled, stretched, napped, shorn short and napped, shorn short then brushed and and then brushed pressed. and pressed. That component of a fabrics That component of a plied yarn that is used to plied yarn that is support a weaker used to support a component through weaker component further processing until it through further is satisfactorily processing until it is introduced into a fabric. satisfactorily introduced into a The scaffolding yarn may then be removed by fabric. solvent or other chemical action or, alternatively, be retained in the fabric to make it more durable. apparatus, In engraved printingIn engraved printingequipage, roller work roller work, in order to



796 Word



Category tools



SCALES



fibers, filaments, yarns



SCALLOP



fabrics, defects



SCALLOPED SELVEDGE



defects



SCARF



garments, made-ups, assemblies



SCHAPPE SILK



fabrics



Short description



Description print a flat area of solid colour, the shape (after outlining) must be filled in with a series of parallel lines set an angle of between 22½° and 30°; the number of these to the inch constitutes the scale. The overlapping horny The overlapping cell components which horny cell make up the outside components which make up the outside surface of the wool fibre. They permit felting. surface of the wool fibre. Curves or 1. Curves or indentations indentations along along the edge of a the edge of a fabric. fabric. 2. Fabric defect. The edges of a fabric exhibiting approximately sinusoidal waveforms of short lengths in the plane of the fabric. The defect usually appears in a fabric which has been stretched excessively width-ways during stentering Also called Misclip, Also called Misclip, OffOff-dip. Fabric dip. Fabric defect. An defect. abrupt, narrow indentation in the selvedge of the cloth, caused due to clip on stenter frame failing to attach itself onto, or hold fabric selvedge. An irregular cloth edge similar in appearance to that of a scallop shell. A square piece of cloth A square piece of cloth worn for warmth worn for warmth or as a or as a decorative decorative apparel item. apparel item. A type of silk from A type of silk from which which the gum has the gum has been been removed by removed by



797 Word



Category



SCHAPPING



processes, operations



SCHIFFLI LACE



fabrics



SCHIFFLI MACHINE



apparatus, equipage, tools



SCHREINER



processes, operations, apparatus, equipage, tools



Short description fermentation.



Description fermentation. The fabric produced and called by this name is similar to Spun silk A method of degumming A method of applied to silk waste, degumming applied which removes part of to silk waste, which the gum by a removes part of the fermentation process. Up gum by a to 90 % of gum may be fermentation removed from the fibre. process. Name originates from Name originates from the the machine itself. machine itself. Embroidery done in a Schiffli loom-like machine, equipped with many needles and boatshaped shuttles. It produces various effects on lightweight fabrics. An embroidery An embroidery machine machine consisting of a multiplicity of lockstitch sewing elements working on a basic net or fabric that is attached to a frame movable vertically and horizontally according to the requirements of the pattern 1. Description of a A finish for calender with two or enhancing the lustre three bowls in which one of the fabric, ( the middle one in a obtained by passing it through a schreiner three-bowl calender) is of highly polished steel calender. engraved with very fine parallel lines (grooves) running at an angle of approxi-mately 20° to either the horizontal or the vertical. 2. The term is sometimes used for the engraved bowl of a schreiner calender. The engraved bowl is heated, usually to



798 Word



Category



SCHREINERING



processes, operations



SCOOP



accessories



SCOTCH BEAMING



processes,



Short description



Description 60-120° C for finishing cotton fabrics, 3. A finish for enhancing the lustre of the fabric, obtained by passing it through a schreiner calender. Opti-mum effects are obtained when the lines are slightly cross the direction of the surface yarn twist. A fabric finishing A fabric finishing process process which which smoothen the right smoothen the right side, often impressing a side, often pattern at the same time. impressing a pattern Schreinering is produced at the same time. using a special schreiner calender. It has a metal cylinder that has a series of fine lines, from 250 to 350 per inch (100 to 140/cm), engraved so that they form an angle of roughly 26° to the construction of the cloth. The angle is usually such that the lines are parallel to the twist in the yarns. The fabric is fed between the large cylinder with the engraved lines and a smaller cylinder that is heated. The finish produces a soft, silk-like lustre and is frequently used on cellulose fibres such as cotton and linen. The cylinders flatten the yarns and create a smooth and compact fabric. This process is also used in tricot knits to produce lingerie fabrics that are soft and opaque Deprecated term. Deprecated term. See Element. See Dry taping under See Dry taping under



799 Word SCOTCH BLACKFACE



SCOTCH CARPET



SCOTCH DRESSING



SCOTCH FINISH



SCOTCH TWEED



SCOTCH WARP DRESSING



Category Short description operations Scotch dressing. fibers, A well-known breed filaments, of sheep, which yarns produces much long carpet wool.



garments, made-ups, assemblies processes, operations



fabrics



See under Ingrain carpet. Dry taping: Also called Scotch beaming.



Description Scotch dressing. A well-known breed of sheep, which produces much long carpet wool. The fibres are very strong, rugged, stand the rigours of weather very well and ideal for use as ‘filling fibre’ in the manufacture of rugs and carpets. See under Ingrain carpet. Dry taping: Also called Scotch beaming. A method of preparing striped warps for weaving, suitable for use when long lengths of any one pattern are to be woven. The preparation is carried out in three operational steps. Dresser sizing: Also called Scotch warp dressing. A method of warp preparation, used particularly in the linen industry, which incorporates sizing. See also Dressing A term applied to heavy woollens finished with a closely shorn nap.



A term applied to heavy woollens finished with a closely shorn nap. fabrics Woollen tweed made Woollen tweed made in in twill weave using a twill weave using a white warp and brightly white warp and brightly coloured weft coloured weft yarns. It has a tough, shaggy yarns. appearance, and is made in various weights for suits and overcoats. processes, See Dresser sizing See Dresser sizing under operations under Scotch Scotch dressing. dressing.



800 Word SCOTCHGUARD



SCOURED WOOL



SCOURING



SCRATCH FELT



SCRAY



SCREEN ENGRAVING



SCREEN PRINTING



Category fabrics



Short description Description A registered shower- A registered showerproof finish applied to proof finish applied to some fabrics some fabrics fibers, Wool, from which the Wool, from which the bulk of impurities have filaments, bulk of impurities been removed by an yarns have been removed aqueous or solvent by an aqueous or washing process. solvent washing process. The cleaning of raw processes, The cleaning of raw operations stock, yarn or cloth to stock, yarn or cloth to remove various remove various impurities as oils, fats, impurities as oils, fats, waxes, soluble waxes, soluble impurities and any adhering impurities and any adhering particulate particulate of solid dirt. The process consists of solid dirt. essentially of treatment with a detergent, with or without the addition of an alkali or by treatment with solvents and chemicals. Scouring is almost invariably the first wet process applied to textile materials. Cheap quality woollen fabrics Cheap quality woollen fabric made fabric made to resemble camel cloth. Poor to resemble camel wearing qualities. cloth. A ‘J’ shaped container in apparatus, A ‘J’ shaped equipage, container in which which piece goods may tools piece goods may be be accumulated in folds accumulated in folds or pleats. Generally used in dry finishing or or pleats. inspection to compensate the flow of cloth to varying speeds. processes, The production of the The production of the operations open and in-filled open and in-filled pattern pattern areas on the areas on the print-screen print-screen surface surface; the traditional term is still used, although engraving is in no way involved. processes, A stencil-like method A stencil-like method of operations of printing, using a printing, using a screen screen of fine mesh of fine mesh cloth. Areas



801 Word



SCRIM



SCRIMP



SCRIMP ROLLER



Category



Short description cloth.



Description to remain uncoloured, are treated with a film which prevents colour passage. Colour paste is forced through the untreated potions of the screen onto the fabric underneath. The screen may then be moved ahead to a repeat. Separate screen is used for each different colour in a design. There are mainly two types of screen printing methods: Flat bed screen printing: Colour is squeezed through a flat screen manually or automatically. Also called ‘automatic screen printing’. Roller screen printing: A roller metal screen is used. Rollers are arranged horizontally, vertically and cen-trally. fabrics Loosely woven cloth Loosely woven cloth in in cotton yarn, similar cotton yarn, similar to to voile but a poorer voile but a poorer quality quality fabric. fabric. It is very similar to cheesecloth. Normally used only for backing other fabrics such as fur. defects Printing defect, Printing defect, major. major. The result of the fabric being folded or creased when passing through the print machine. There will be areas not printed. apparatus, Also called Scroll Also called Scroll roller. equipage, roller. Rollers or bars (rails) tools characterised by grooves or projections inclined at equal and opposite angles to the centre line on each half and used for removing folds or



802 Word



Category



Short description



SCRIMPS



defects



A wrinkle in a cloth caused by excessive strain, tension or pressure on a fabric.



SCROLL GIMP



fabrics



A woven figured narrow fabric having two series of wefts and a warp.



SCROLL ROLLER



apparatus, equipage, tools fabrics



See Scrimp roller



SCROOP



SCULPTURED PILE



Description creases during finishing operations. 1. A wrinkle in a cloth caused by excessive strain, tension or pressure on a fabric. 2. A printing defect identified by areas of fabric that are unprinted. May be due to creasing of the fabric as it passes through the printing area. A woven figured narrow fabric having two series of wefts and a warp. Each series consists of three gimp cords laid flat. The ground series projects at one edge to form a triple loop; the figure series passes through the warp and returns over the warp alternately to form a loose scroll on the surface. The overall width of the fabric, which is in plain weave, is about 16 mm See Scrimp roller



The rustling sound The rustling sound associated with silk, associated with silk, which is heard when which is heard when fabric is compressed, fabric is compressed, rubbed together or rubbed together or with with body movement body movement when worn. It is not a natural when worn. property, but is imparted during finishing by treatment with certain acids. Some man-made materials also may be given this finish. garments, See under Pile in See under Pile in carpet made-ups, carpet assemblies



803 Word SCULPTURED RUG



SCUTCHER



SCUTCHING



SCYE



SCYE DEPTH



SEA ISLAND COTTON



Category Short description Description garments, A floor covering with A floor covering with made-ups, Jacquard designs, in Jacquard designs, in assemblies different heights of different heights of pile. pile. apparatus, A machine which 1. A machine which equipage, breaks and opens up breaks and opens up tools fibres. fibres. 2.A finishing machine that whirls against the fabric in such a way and speed, so as to spread the cloth in full width. processes, IN COTTON FIBRE. 1. IN COTTON FIBRE. operations An operation in which An operation in which cotton is opened cotton is opened mechanically and mechanically and cleaned and formed cleaned and formed into a continuous lap. into a continuous lap. 2. IN FLAX FIBRE. The operation of separating the woody part of deseeded or retted flax straw from the fibre. See also Retting. 3. IN ANY FABRIC. Opening up of fabric to its full width. This takes place after the fabric has been allowed to close in on itself to ‘rope’ form. See Scutching garments, The armhole of a The armhole of a made-ups, garment garment assemblies garments, Garment-related Garment-related term. made-ups, term. See under Garment assemblies sizing system. fibers, A type of extra long A type of extra long filaments, staple cotton fibre. staple cotton fibre. yarns Average fibre length 51 mm. The best quality cotton fibre and yarn in the world. The fibre is long, soft, lustrous, and smooth and made into top quality cotton fabrics both plain and printed. Production is limited, so



804 Word



SEA SILK



SEAL



SEALSKIN



SEAM



SEAM ALLOWANCE



Category



Short description



Description it is a very expensive yarn. fibers, Strong lustrous fibres Strong lustrous fibres filaments, yielded by certain yielded by certain algae. yarns algae. fibers, Shiny and flat hair Shiny and flat hair with filaments, with coarse texture coarse texture; not yarns hardwearing. Black or grey in colour. fibers, Fur, of the Alaskan Fur, of the Alaskan seal, filaments, seal, usually dyed usually dyed black or yarns black or brown. brown. Is very hardwearing. Often used for handbags. seams, Also called Joining Also called Joining line. stitches line. A line where two A line where two or more or more fabrics are fabrics are joined, joined, usually near usually near the edge. the edge. The term seam is used to describe the composite result of fabric being stitched. Materials used may include fabric, fur, leather and plastic film. Joining methods for seams may vary. Taken into account are the relationship between the stitching and the edges of the fabric(s), the particular folding of the fabric, the entry location of the needle in stitching, and the positions of looper and seam covering threads. See also Sewn seam, Glued seam, Stapled seam, Thermally-bonded seam. seams, Also called Seam Also called Seam stitches margin. margin. In sewn fabrics, the distance from the edge of a fabric to the parallel stitch line furthest from that edge, i.e. a pre-determined amount of material



805 Word



SEAM ASSEMBLY



SEAM BASTING



SEAM BINDING



SEAM BUSTING



SEAM DAMAGE



SEAM EFFICIENCY



SEAM MARGIN



Category



Short description



Description between the edge of the component parts of the garment and the seam line. Many commercial patterns specify seam allowances which may vary usually between 1 mm to 20 mm depending upon the pattern. Seam allowances may be trimmed during or after seam construction. The composite structure seams, The composite stitches structure obtained obtained when fabric(s) when fabric(s) are are joined by means of a seam joined by means of a seam seams, A temporary sewing A temporary sewing stitches together of two parts together of two parts of a of a garment. garment. accessories A straight tape used A straight tape used for for finishing the finishing the edges of edges of hems and hems and seams seams Pressing open seams, seams, Pressing open stitches seams, often carried often carried out as an intermediate operation out as an during garment intermediate assembly. Same as operation during Seam opening garment assembly. defects Sewing defect Sewing defect. An adverse change in the physical condition of one or more of the components in a seam which would reduce the seam efficiency and seam acceptability such as yarn slippage, needle damage, or fabric rupture. seams, In sewn fabrics, the In sewn fabrics, the ratio of seam strength to stitches ratio of seam fabric strength strength to fabric strength seams, See Seam See Seam allowance. stitches allowance.



806 Word SEAM MARK



Category defects



SEAM OPENING



seams, stitches seams, stitches



SEAM PUCKER



Short description Description Fabric defect, in Fabric defect, in finished finished woven cloth woven cloth. A pressure mark caused by the thickness of the seam being pressed against the cloth. Sometimes called Wrinkle Mark. See Seam busting See Seam busting Puckering of fabric along the line of stitching at a seam. The serviceability and appearance of a seam as governed by the quality of the fabric



SEAM QUALITY



seams, stitches



SEAM SLIPPAGE



fabrics



In sewn fabrics, the displacement of the fabric yarn parallel and adjacent to the stitch line.



SEAM SMOOTHNESS



seams, stitches



In fabrics, the visual impression of planarity of a seamed specimen quantified



SEAM TYPES



seams, stitches



An alphanumeric designation relating to the essential characteristics of fabric positioning and rows of stitching in a specified sewn fabric



Puckering of fabric along the line of stitching at a seam. The serviceability and appearance of a seam as governed by the quality of the fabric, the thread used, and the number of stitches to the inch In sewn fabrics, the displacement of the fabric yarn parallel and adjacent to the stitch line. The pulling away of fabric from a seam under tension. A synthetic resin finish for rayons and synthetics prevents seam slippage and fraying at the seams of yarns liable to occur with smooth fibres and filament yarns, especially light, loosely woven cloth. In fabrics, the visual impression of planarity of a seamed specimen quantified by comparison with a set of reference standards. An alphanumeric designation relating to the essential characteristics of fabric positioning and rows of stitching in a specified sewn fabric seam.



807 Word



Category



SEAM-FINISH



seams, stitches



Short description seam.



Description Seam constructions are divided into eight classes, as per BS Standard 3870, that describe the number and configuration of the material components in the seam. A five-digit number denotes the particular combination. The first number represents the class, the second and third digits the materials configuration, and the fourth and fifth digits the needle penetration location. The components are described as being ‘limited’ or ‘unlimited’ on their edges. Limited describes an edge that is finite and bears a relationship to the seam formed. Unlimited describes an edge or side that is indeterminate and unconnected with the seam formed. Within the British Standard a limited edge is defined with a straight line and an unlimited edge by a wavy line. A treatment of the raw A treatment of the raw fabric edges of fabric edges of the seam allowance in a plain the seam allowance seam. Seam-finishes are in a plain seam. used to prevent raveling, provide a neater appearance, and prolong wear life. Types of seam-finishes may include ‘Bound’, ‘Clean-finish’, ‘Doublestitched', ‘Handovercast’, ‘Hong Kong’,



808 Word



SEAMING



SEAMING DEFECTS IN GARMENT SEAMLOC



SEAT



SEAT ANGLE



SEAT BELT WEBBING



SEAWEED FIBRES



Category



Short description



garments, Joining together the made-ups, component parts of a assemblies garment at a given distance from the edge of the material. defects See under Garment defects, classified processes, A treatment with a operations plastic binder on the back of woven carpets to prevent the fabric from ravelling



Description ‘Pinked’, ‘Rolled’, ‘Selfbound’, ‘Stitched and Pinked’, ‘Turned and Stitched’, and ‘Zigzagged’. The type of seam-finish chosen may be influenced by type and weight of fabric, end use of object, amount and kind of care given, the visibility of the seams, and the design of the item. Seam-finishes are not needed with complex seams. Joining together the component parts of a garment at a given distance from the edge of the material. See under Garment defects, classified A treatment with a plastic binder on the back of woven carpets to prevent the fabric from ravelling. Seams are joined with special tape and cementing material to make an almost invisible seam. Part of trousers covering the buttocks



garments, Part of trousers made-ups, covering the buttocks assemblies The quantity of material, garments, The quantity of usually 5 to 8 cm., made-ups, material, usually 5 to assemblies 8 cm., allowed at the allowed at the seat on the underside for ease of seat on the movement. underside for ease of movement. accessories A woven webbing, A woven webbing, usually of polyester usually of polyester, with special physical characteristics used for body restraining purposes. fibers, See Alignate fibres See Alignate fibres



809 Word



SECANT MODULUS



SECOND-HAND FILLING MATERIAL



Category filaments, yarns general



fibers, filaments, yarns



Short description



Description



On a stress/strain diagram, the ratio of change in stress to change in strain between two points, especially the points of zero stress and breaking stress. An industry product which contains any filling material which has previously been used



On a stress/strain diagram, the ratio of change in stress to change in strain between two points, especially the points of zero stress and breaking stress.



An industry product which contains any filling material which has previously been used should not be offered for sale unless a clear and conspicuous disclosure of that fact is made on the label thereof and in all advertising and invoices relating to such product. SECONDARY COLOURS general See under Colour See under Colour SECONDS general Textile products Textile products which, which, owing to some owing to some fault or fault or imperfection imperfection, do not reach an agreed standard of quality. SECRET FINISH processes, Usually a newly Usually a newly patented operations patented finish of a finish of a converter. The converter. finisher can collect royalties, or sell or license the technique and the finish. Secret finishes bring certain textile fabrics to the consumer’s attention. SECTION MARK defects Fabric defect in Fabric defect in woven woven fabrics. fabrics. Unintented warp Unintented warp bands of different colour, bands of different texture, or lustre. Seen in colour, texture, or a fabric section, the warp lustre. yarns woven loose, and the weft yarns show a cockled effect. Caused by uneven tension of the warp or a section of the warp which has slipped



810 Word



Category



SECTION WARPING



processes, operations



SEE-THROUGH FABRIC



fabrics



SEED COAT FRAGMENT



fibers, filaments, yarns



SEED COTTON



fibers, filaments, yarns



SEED EFFECT



fabrics



SEED FIBRES



fibers, filaments, yarns



SEERLOOP GINGHAM



fabrics



Short description



Description during the dressing or slashing operations. The affected areas are usually a total loss, since it is very difficult to bring the material to what it should be. Also called Warp Band See Pattern warping See Pattern warping and and also Beam also Beam warping. warping. A very sheer cloth 1. A very sheer cloth such as gauze. such as gauze. 2. Foam laminating, particularly in knit goods; permits the foam backing to show through on the face of the cloth. In cotton, a portion of In cotton, a portion of a a cottonseed, cottonseed, usually black or dark brown in colour, broken from a mature or immature seed, and to which fibres and linters may or may not be attached. Cotton, as harvested Cotton, as harvested and and before ginning before ginning, consisting of seeds with the fibre attached and usually including measurable amounts of foreign matter. Appearance of having Appearance of having small seed- small seed-like objects scattered over the like objects scattered over the surface of surface of the fabric. May be produced by the yarn, the fabric. weave or print. A general term A general term applied to applied to fibres and fibres and hairs hairs produced by produced by the seeds the seeds or seed or seed pods of plants, pods of plants such as cotton, vegetable silk. Gingham with slackGingham with slacktension loops of yarn tension loops of yarn on



811 Word



Category



SEERSUCKER



fabrics



Short description on the surface, often on the white lines only. Traditional form of cotton fabric showing crinkled/puckered stripes alternating with flat ones of various widths which may be in different colours and sizes.



Description the surface, often on the white lines only. See Gingham. Traditional form of cotton fabric showing crinkled/puckered stripes alternating with flat ones of various widths which may be in different colours and sizes. The stripes may be multicoloured, or in a plain coloured fabric with a printed floral pattern on it. Early seersucker, all cotton, was made by physically forcing bubbles into the plain fabric, and so after a few washes the bubbles began to flatten and, if ironed they would certainly disappear. Now, however, the cloth is made on a twin- beam loom which feeds the yarns at different speeds and the puckers are therefore woven in, i.e. a normally plain weave fabric is produced by having two warps, one heavily tensioned and the other comparatively slack. The crinkled stripes are formed by the slack warp and the smooth ground by the tight warp. Fibre content now normally includes polyester with cotton, but it can be a nylon fabric. This is a relatively expensive method of producing crinkled effects and the chemical or heat shrinkage methods as mentioned in Plisse are cheaper and



812 Word



Category



Short description



SELF-BLENDED YARN



fibers, filaments, yarns



A single yarn spun from a blend or mixture of the same fibre species.



SELF-BOUND SEAMFINISH



seams, stitches



A finish for the raw edges of the seam allowances of a plain seam, in which one seam allowance encloses both raw edges.



SELF-EDGE fabrics Same as Selvedge. SELF-FASTENING TAPE accessories Also called Hook and FASTENERS loop fasteners and Touch and close fasteners.



Description more commonly used. Used for lightweight casual clothes, such as shirts, skirts, beachwear, aprons and for tablecloths and kitchen curtains. Creases do not show A single yarn spun from a blend or mixture of the same fibre species. A spun yarn made from fibres of varied lengths or different counts would be a self-blended yarn. See also Combination yarn, Blended yarn. A finish for the raw edges of the seam allowances of a plain seam, in which one seam allowance encloses both raw edges. A self-bound seam-finish is made by (1) stitching on the 15 mm seamline with face sides together, (2) trimmimg one seam allowance to 3 mm, (3) folding the wider seam allowance edge under 3 mm, (4) turning the folded edge over the narrower seam allowance so the folded edge nearly abuts the seamline, thus enclosing all raw edges, and (5) machine stitching along the first folded edge through the four layers of seam allowances. Same as Selvedge. Also called Hook and loop fasteners and Touch and close fasteners. Used as



813 Word



Category



Short description



SELF-FIGURE



fabrics



Also called Selfstripe.



SELF-STITCHING DOUBLE CLOTH SELF-STRIPE SELF-TWIST SPINNING



fabrics



Description garment closures. They are usually made available in lengths in narrow tapes, and as small squares and dots. These provide an easy on, easy-off adjustable closure. The material comes in two pieces. One piece has small hooks all over the surface, and the other is covered with small loops. When the two pieces are pressed together, the hooks attach to the loops, holding the pieces together. They are quite easy to peel apart. They are suitable only for medium and heavyweight fabrics. Ideal for outerwear, especially for closing pocket flaps and cuffs. Often used on clothing of children and handicapped persons, and on space suits. Also called Self-stripe. A woven pattern in fabric, as distinguished from a printed pattern; the weave of the design differs from the ground weave. Generally employed on solid colours, the pattern being the same colour as the ground. See under Double cloth.



See under Double cloth. fabrics See Self-figure. See Self-figure. fibers, A method of making A method of making yarn filaments, yarn from rovings fed from rovings fed to a yarns to a drafting unit drafting unit; the emerging strand of fibres



814 Word



SELF-TWIST TWISTED YARN (STT



SELVAGE SELVEDGE



Category



Short description



Description is subjected to a cyclically reverse falsetwisting action, which can be imparted in a number of ways. Two or more adjacent strands delivered from the falsetwist system are then brought together by guides, and their torque causes them to wrap about each other. This wrapping action is defined as ‘self-twist’ and produces a twist-pattern of -S-Zero-Z-Zero- etc., in the yarn, which is then taken up as a cheese. Further twisting may be necessary before the yarn is used. fibers, A self-twist yarn to A self-twist yarn to which filaments, which unidirectional unidirectional twist has yarns twist has been added been added in a in a subsequent subsequent operation. operation. fabrics Same as Selvedge Same as Selvedge fabrics Also called Selvage, Also called Selvage, List, List, and Listing. The and Listing. The woven woven edge portion edge portion of a fabric of a fabric parallel to parallel to the warp. The the warp. longitudinal edges of a fabric that are formed during weaving. The edge at each long side of a woven fabric, that is usually in a firmer construction than the rest of the fabric, to provide a firm neat edge and a secure grip for finishing machinery. Selvedges are often upto 20 mm wide and may differ from the body of the fabric in construction or weave or both, or they may be of exactly the same



815 Word



Category



Short description



Description construction as the body of the fabric and be separated from it by yarns of different colour. Usually the selvedge has an increased number of ends per inch. Selvedges may contain fancy effects or may have brand names or fabric descriptions woven into or printed on them. Selvedges serve as a binding point for the weft when weaving and as an aid to maintain proper width when dyeing, printing, and finishing fabric. A good selvedge which is found on any material at the full width pro-duces the effect of a frame around a picture and is usually a cloth of proper quality and construction. A wellwoven selvedge assures, generally speaking, a well-woven cloth. Tuck-in selvedge: Formed by tucking-in protruding portions of each pick into the next warp shed, alongside the new pick, and beating them up together with it. Double-pick interwoven selvedge: Formed by interweaving a strong selvedge end with the legs of the pro-truding loops, using a small reciprocating shuttle. Double-pick knitted selvedge: Formed by passing protruding loop of each pick through the loop of the pre-ceding pick.



816 Word



Category



Short description



SELVEDGE END



defects



Fabric defect.



Description Fused selvedge: Thermoplastic warp and weft are welded together by heat and pressure. Helical selvedge: Formed by nipping each pick between two strong, highly tensioned ends which interwine continuously, each end having a helical configuration. Inserted selvedge: Formed by inserting additional short double picks of strong fine yarn by means of a reciprocating needle. Leno selvedge: Formed by one or more pairs of strong, highly tensioned ends that interface with the weft on the leno principle. Warp threads are crossed and interwoven into the edges of the fabric. Traditional selvedge: Formed without making special provision on a shuttle loom weaving plain cloth. However, fabrics woven by new fast looms do not produce conventional selvedges. In shuttleless looms, the cloth is provided with special selvedges that will not allow the fabric to fray at the edges, but will enable it to perform satisfactorily during finishing and making-up, or even give satisfaction in the final article without the need for hemming. Fabric defect. These are



817 Word BREAKS



Category



SELVEDGE IN KNITTING



fabrics



SELVEDGE MARK



defects



SELVEDGE TORN



defects



SELVEDGE TURNDOWN



defects



Short description



Description caused by improper shed setting whereby the shuttle cannot function properly, poor temple setting, shuttles which have not been sandpapered to make them smooth, weak selvedge threads, crowded reeding of the selvedge ends, too tight a weave construction, damaged or bent reed wires, poorly plied yarn with one of the plies being loose or out altogether. The sealed edge of a The sealed edge of a piece of weft knitted piece of weft knitted fabric. fabric. The edge is formed when the thread forming a course turns back at the edge of the knitting and is used to create the succeeding course. The term is derived from weaving where the weft thread also turns back to form succeeding picks. Fabric defect. A more Fabric defect. A more or less regular, lengthways, or less regular, crease mark, in the lengthways, crease mark, in the finished finished cloth, along the selvedge. Caused by an cloth, along the edge being folded or selvedge. doubled during the finishing of the cloth. Fabric defect, major. Fabric defect, major. Self-explanatory. Self-explanatory. Fabric defect. A Fabric defect. A lengthways streak lengthways streak immediately adjacent immediately adjacent to the selvedge, to the selvedge, characterised by a characterised by a difference in colour difference in colour from from that of the body that of the body of the fabric, by surface of the fabric, by



818 Word



Category



SELVEDGE WIDENING



processes, operations



SELVEDGE, DISTORTED



defects



SELVEDGE, UNEVEN



defects



SELVEDGE, WEFT KNITTING



fabrics



SEMI-COLLAPSED BALLOON SPINNING



processes, operations



Short description Description surface disturbance, disturbance, or by both. or by both The defect is caused by the selvedge having folded over, thus shielding the edge of the usable fabric during processing. In weft knitting, a In weft knitting, a method method of shaping a of shaping a garment garment panel panel by introducing additional needles at one or both selvedges in a particular sequence designed to increase the width of the fabric over a given number of courses whilst maintaining a secure selvedge and without changing the structure. See also Selvedge, weft knitting. A selvedge that does A selvedge that does not not itself vary in width itself vary in width, but which is not straight as a result of variations in the fabric width. See Uneven See Uneven selvedge. selvedge. The edge of a fullyThe edge of a fullyfashioned garment fashioned garment panel. panel. Also called SemiAlso called Semisuppressed balloon suppressed balloon spinning. spinning. A system of ring spinning in which the rotating yarn balloon is greatly reduced at the start of an empty bobbin and is allowed to expand later when the bobbin is becoming filled with yarn. The small-balloon condition is achieved by allowing contact between the rotating balloon and the spindle top. As the bobbin fills, contact is lost and the yarn balloon



819 Word



Category



SEMI-DULL



fibers, filaments, yarns processes, operations



SEMI-MILLED FINISH



SEMI-PERMANENT SET SEMI-SUPPRESSED BALLOON SPINNING SEMI-WORSTED SPUN



SENNIT ROPE



SENSITIZED



SEPARABLE PIN



SEPARABLE ZIPPER



Short description



Description is allowed to expand. The system is often used for worsted and semiworsted spinning. Special spindle top extensions are used to obtain the required effect. See under Delustred. See under Delustred.



A finish on lightly milled fabrics containing wool See under Setting



processes, operations processes, See Semi-collapsed operations balloon spinning. fibers, A term applied to filaments, yarn spun from sliver yarns produced by carding and gilling in which the fibres are substantially parallel, the carded sliver not having been condensed or combed. garments, See under Rope. made-ups, assemblies processes, The chemical operations treatment of a fabric before curing to give it a memory.



A finish on lightly milled fabrics containing wool See under Setting See Semi-collapsed balloon spinning. A term applied to yarn spun from sliver produced by carding and gilling in which the fibres are substantially parallel, the carded sliver not having been condensed or combed. Alternately, the yarn may be produced from roving. See under Rope.



The chemical treatment of a fabric before curing to give it a memory. The fabric is capable of retaining the shape into which it is formed by subsequent curing. See Curing and Memory accessories In zippers, a tube-like In zippers, a tube-like element attached over element attached over the bead at the the bead at the bottom end of one stringer. bottom end of one stringer. accessories A zipper fitted with A zipper fitted with special components special components at at the bottom of the the bottom of the chain,



820 Word



Category



Short description chain



SEPARATE ELEMENT ZIPPER



accessories A zipper consisting two series of separately formed elements



SEPARATING COURSE



garments, In weft knitting, a made-ups, course of knitted assemblies loops separating one garment or garment part from another



SEPARATION



SEQUENTIAL DRAWTEXTURING SEQUIN LACE



SERGE



accessories



In printing, the opaque painted or photographically produced positive of all areas of one design colour on transparent film.



processes, See under Draw operations texturing. fabrics A crochet lace made of coloured yarn with coloured braid for the design fabrics Either a twill cloth or a smooth faced plainweave material, made from worsted



Description so as to permit complete disengagement and then re-engagement of the two stringers. (Compare Non-separable zipper.) A zipper consisting two series of separately formed elements, each attached to one of the opposing edges of two tapes which are engaged and disengaged by the movement of a slider. (Compare Continuous element zipper.) In weft knitting, a course of knitted loops separating one garment or garment part from another, that, on removal, permits the separation of articles that are knitted as a succession of interconnected units. Separat-ing coursed may be cut, unroved, or dissolved, and several such courses may be made consecutively. In printing, the opaque painted or photographically produced positive of all areas of one design colour on transparent film. Also known as a Sketch or Tracing See under Draw texturing. A crochet lace made of coloured yarn with coloured braid for the design Either a twill cloth or a smooth faced plainweave material, made from worsted or woollen



821 Word



Category



Short description or woollen yarn



Description yarn. Basically a firm, compact, twill-weave worsted (wool) fabric with a clear face finish. The 2/2 and 3/3 twills are most commonly used. A wide range of fabrics is made varying in weight and quality, in plain piece dyed, yarn dyed and fibre dyed mixture colours. Woollen yarns can also be used to produce serges with a fibrous surface and cheaper types are made with a cotton warp and woollen weft. Staple fibre rayon is also used either alone or blended with wool. Conventional serge should be reasonably square in construction giv-ing a twill diagonal of 45°. The handle will vary according to the quality of wool used. Botany wool serges are soft in handle whilst crossbred quality serges are harder and rougher. This is a basic suiting fabric, used extensively for uniforms particularly in heavier weights up to about 750 gm a running metre. Cross-bred wool qualities are used where hardwearing properties are more important than softness of handle or smoothness of appearance. Used for men’s suits, but more often for classic coats, school uniforms, etc. It becomes shiny with wear but pressing



822 Word



Category



SERGING



processes, operations



SERICEOUS



general



SERICIN



fibers, filaments, yarns



SERSICULTURE



processes, operations



SET SET MARK



SET TWIST



SET YARN



SET-IN SLEEVE



Short description



Description revitalises it. The operation of The operation of neatening the cut edge neatening the cut to avoid fraying, by edge to avoid fraying, means of an overedge by means of an stitch. overedge stitch. Made of silk; like silk Made of silk; like silk; pertaining to silk. The natural gum The natural gum cementing the two cementing the two fibroin fibroin filaments in a filaments in a silk bave. Sericin, a gelatinous silk bave. protein, comprises 20 to 30 % by mass of raw silk. Unless the gum is completely removed, silk does not exhibit its characteristic lustre, smoothness as well as softness The raising of The raising of silkworms silkworms and and production of silk production of silk See Sett. See Sett.



processes, operations defects A stop mark resulting A stop mark resulting from a prolonged from a prolonged loom loom shutdown. shutdown. See Coarse filling bar. fibers, Also called Dead Also called Dead twist. filaments, twist. Description of the yarns condition of a yarn in which an unbalanced twisting couple has been dissipated or rendered latent by suitable treatment such as steaming. fibers, See Stabilised yarn. See Stabilised yarn. filaments, yarns garments, A separate sleeve A separate sleeve which made-ups, which is attached to is attached to the scye. assemblies the scye. The shape of the junction between the sleeve and the body of a garment, where the line runs from



823 Word



Category



Short description



SETT



processes, operations



Also called Set, Pitch.



SETT, SQUARE



fabrics



A fabric in which the number of ends per centimetre and the number of picks per centimetre are approximately equal.



SETT, UNBALANCED



fabrics



SETTING



Description the underarm to the apparent top of the extreme end of the shoulder. The term is used in both woven and knitted garment construction Also called Set, Pitch. A term used to indicate the density of ends or picks or both in a woven fabric, usually expressed as the number of threads per centimetre. The state of fabric at the time should be described, e.g. loomstate or finished. See also Count of reed. A fabric in which the number of ends per centimetre and the number of picks per centimetre are approximately equal. For practical reasons, the linear densities of warp and weft would normally be approximately the same in such a fabric A fabric in which there is an appreciable difference between the number of ends and picks per centimetre.



A fabric in which there is an appreciable difference between the number of ends and picks per centimetre. The process of processes, The process of conferring stability of operations conferring stability of form upon fibres, yarns, form upon fibres, fabrics, or garments, yarns, fabrics, or usually by means of garments, usually by means of successive successive heating and heating and cooling cooling in moist or dry conditions. The different in moist or dry grades of setting are: conditions. Cohesive set: Set which is destroyed by immersing the set



824 Word



Category



SEW



processes, operations



SEW-IN WOVEN INTERFACINGS



Short description



Description material in water. Temporary set: Set which is destroyed by ordinary usage. Semi-permanent set: Set which is resistant to ordinary effects experienced in use, but which can be de-stroyed (by deliberately applied) more severe treatment. Permanent set: Set in which a structural change takes place that cannot be reversed. More severe setting treatments may cause further irreversible changes of structure. It is observed that in practice the term ‘permanent set’ is used very loosely. The term is sometimes used in conjunction with a description of the particular characteristics to be stabi-lised (e.g. twist setting, crêpe setting, crimp setting, flat setting) or of the setting medium (e.g. heat settimg, steam setting). To unite or fasten with stitches made with a needle and thread.



To unite or fasten with stitches made with a needle and thread. accessories Stiffened cotton sew- There are different types: in, Marquisette sew- Stiffened cotton sew-in: in...etc An open wavy-weave cotton stiffened to a crisp finish. Suitable for firm fabrics. Not cheap. Washable. Marquisette sew-in: An open lattice-weave nylon fabric. Very stiff and unyielding. The sort of thing to use for



825 Word



Category



Short description



Description underlining a bride’s skirt. Not cheap. Washable. Viscose/cotton sew-in: A lovely soft plain-weave fabric, suitable for mounting rather than interfacing most fabrics. Not cheap. Washable. Sanforized cotton sew-in: The trade name for permanently stiffened cotton interfacing (although the proc-ess is also applied to other fabrics). It is slightly open-weave cotton. Slightly stiff. Washable. Victoria sew-in: A fine Lawn that is fairly stiff. An excellent fabric to interface medium-weight crisp fab-rics. Not cheap. Washable. Shirt collar interfacing sew-in: A plain, very even weave cotton made from a fairly heavy yarn. It is very heavily stiffened. Expensive but obviously only small amounts are required. Washable. Permastiff sew-in: The trade name for a fabric that has been treated with the Permastiff finish. The interfac-ing is a very stiff fairly thick cotton fabric of medium price. Washable. Tie Interfacing sew-in: A thick, soft fabric made of viscose fibre in plain open-weave. In cream only. It is used on the bias for ties, so its stiffness makes it very pliable, yet the thickness



826 Word



Category



Short description



SEW-KNIT FABRIC



fabrics



See Stitch-bonded fabric See under Button



SEW-THROUGH FLANGE accessories BUTTON SEWED YARN fabrics



A yarn interwoven into a fabric by hand SEWING DEFECTS IN defects See under Garment GARMENT defects, classified. SEWING OUT processes, Sewing of the operations garment parts together with the raw edges turned in SEWING PREPARATION defects See under Garment DEFECTS IN GARMENT defects, classified. SEWING THREAD accessories A flexible, smalldiameter yarn or strand, usually treated with a surface coating, lubricant, or both



SEWN SEAM



seams, stitches



Also called Stitche seam.



SHADE BAR



defects



See Bar.



Description will give the tie sufficient padding. Washable. Pocketing sew-in: A close-weave plain fabric, usually cream and with a glazed finish on the right side. It is strong to withstand wear but soft so that the pocket bag does not show through the garment. Made from vis-cose (Vincel) fibre. Washable. See Stitch-bonded fabric See under Button A yarn interwoven into a fabric by hand See under Garment defects, classified. Sewing of the garment parts together with the raw edges turned in See under Garment defects, classified. A flexible, small-diameter yarn or strand, usually treated with a surface coating, lubricant, or both, intended to be used to stitch one or more pieces of material or an object to a material Also called Stitche seam. In sewn fabrics, a junction at which two or more planar structures such as textile fabrics, are joined by sewing, usually near the edge. (Compare Glued seam, Stapled seam, Thermally-bonded seam). See Bar.



827 Word SHADE CHANGE



Category defects



SHADE CLOTH



fabrics



SHADED GOODS



defects



SHADING



fabrics



SHADOW CHECK



fabrics



SHADOW LACE



fabrics



Short description Description A change from the A change from the normal or expected normal or expected colour of a textile colour of a textile material. material. See also Colour change. A plain weave fabric A plain weave fabric that that has been treated has been treated with with starch, oil and starch, oil and chemicals chemicals so that it is so that it is opaque. opaque. Used for shades, it has good body and feel and the required stiffness A finishing defect in A finishing defect in which the cloth which the cloth shows shows uneven uneven colouring. colouring. Sometimes alternating bright and dim lines running across a cloth; the cause often is poor blending or mixing of fibres, or faulty yarn dyeing. In coloured textile In coloured textile fabrics, gradual change fabrics, gradual in hue, chroma and/or change in hue, lightness, lengthways or chroma and/or widthways. When lightness, lengthways unintended, shading is or widthways. considered a defect; but when, intentional it is for styling purposes. See also Pile reversal An indistinct, shadowyAn indistinct, check effect produced by shadowy-check employing alternate effect produced by employing alternate stripes of right-hand and stripes of right-hand left-hand twist yarns in and left-hand twist both warp and weft. The yarns in both warp effect is obtained without changing the weave, and weft. which is plain. The density of the The density of the stitch, forms the pattern in this stitch, forms the pattern in this type of type of machine-made lace. There is no machine-made lace. outlining thread to make the design stand out. It is light and filmy and is



828 Word



SHADOW PRINT



SHADOW STRIPE FABRIC SHADOW STRIPE, WOVEN



SHADOW WEAVE



SHADOW WELT



SHADY FILLING



Category



Short description



Description used for blouses, evening dresses, etc. Silk.ribbon or cretonne fabrics Silk.ribbon or cretonne woven with woven with printed warp yarn forming indistinct printed warp yarn design. Reversible. forming indistinct design fabrics See Single bar atlas See Single bar atlas fabric. fabric. An effect, caused by fabrics An effect, caused by different reflections of different reflections of light, produced in light, produced in woven fabrics by employing woven fabrics yarns of different characteristics, usually of S- and Z-twist, in warp or weft (or in both, when it becomes a shadow check). fabrics The appearance of The appearance of reflected shadows reflected shadows produced: (a) by a repetition of the weave following an area of darker shades of yarn that causes a reflection of light like shadows; (b) in staple fabrics by weaving in yarns that have been treated in directions opposite to those used in the woven fabric; (c) in herringbone and diamond effects used in worsted suitings garments, See After-welt See After-welt made-ups, assemblies defects Fabric defect. Fabric defect. Bright or dim areas across the fabric usually for the full length of one bobbin. There are other reasons for shady filling in cloth, such as some defect or irregularity in any process, treatment or operation in processing



829 Word



Category



SHAFT



fabrics



SHAFTY WOOL



fibers, filaments, yarns



SHALLOON



fabrics



SHAM



garments, made-ups, assemblies



SHAM HOLE



garments, made-ups, assemblies



SHANK



garments, made-ups, assemblies



SHANK BUTTON SHANTUNG



accessories fabrics



Short description



Description from yarn to fabric Term used to describe Term used to describe the number the number of sheds, of sheds, necessary necessary to complete a pattern, before a repeat. to complete a Used most often in pattern, before a reference to satin, e.g. repeat. five shaft satin. Strong, dense and Strong, dense and wellwell-grown wool with grown wool with good length and spinning good length and characteristics. spinning characteristics. A 2/2 twill-weave fabric A 2/2 twill-weave made from crossbred fabric made from crossbred worsted worsted yarns, used as a lining for coats, liveries, yarns, used as a etc. lining for coats, liveries, etc. A fabric covering for A fabric covering for a bed pillow, usually of a bed pillow, usually decorative fabric that of decorative fabric matches the that matches the bedcovering. bedcovering. An imitation An imitation buttonhole. buttonhole. A double row of stitching inserted in the fabric to simulate a buttonhole. A link between a A link between a button button and the fabric and the fabric to which it to which it is sewn is sewn; it allows room for the overlapping layer of the garment. See under Button See under Button This is a plain weave This is a plain weave fabric with an unevenly fabric with an ribbed surface and a unevenly ribbed surface and a crisp crisp texture. The fabric originated in Shantung texture. province of China where the wild silkworms produced a rougher and more uneven type of silk called ‘wild silk’ which when used as weft gave an uneven fabric surface which became the



830 Word



Category



Short description



Description characteristic of the fabric. Ninghai, honan and pongee are similar types of fabric but originating from different Chinese districts. See Wild silk and Tussah silk. These types of fabric are now extensively copied in man-made fibres by the use of deliberately irregularly made filament yarns. Cellulose acetate is commonly used for this type of fabric. SHANTUNG-TYPE YARN fibers, An irregular yarn An irregular yarn made filaments, made from fibres from fibres other than yarns other than natural silk natural silk to imitate the yarn used for making shantung. SHAPE processes, See Suppression. See Suppression. operations The ability of a garment SHAPE-SET garments, The ability of a or other textile article to made-ups, garment or other assemblies textile article to hold hold its manufactured shape as a result of its manufactured shape as a result of durable press treatment durable press treatment 1. IN GAREMENT SHAPING processes, IN GAREMENT operations MANUFACTURE, MANUFACTURE, cutting cutting of fabric in the of fabric in the correct correct shape and shape and size by use of a template or shaper, size by use of a e.g. at the lapel and template or shaper, collar. e.g. at the lapel and 2. IN KNITTING, it collar. describes the process used to shape a knitted product during knitting by changing the number of stitches per course, wale, or unit area in the fabric. There are various methods, which may be used separately or in combination. See Fully fashioning, Selvedge



831 Word



Category



Short description



SHARKSKIN



fabrics



This originated as a closely woven compact twill fabric made from delustred man-made fibre yarns such as cellulose acetate



SHARP MARK



fabrics



SHAWL



SHEAR MARKS



Description widening, Stitch holding, Stitch shaping, and Stitch transferring. This originated as a closely woven compact twill fabric made from delustred man-made fibre yarns such as cellulose acetate. Now, made from worsted yarn, this is an expensive fabric in fancy or novelty weaves, sometimes mixing colours. It is of fine texture and very hardwearing. Acetate or viscose sharkskin is used for sportswear. It is crisp and washes well. Not hardwearing. Occasionally made in silk. A compact form of warp knitted fabric is also made by using long guide bar laps and using the technical back of the fabric as the effect side. The effect is that of a finely grained surface in a compact firm fabric of good weight but with good draping properties. Used for dress, suiting and sportswear. A printed design that has a sharp, well-defined edge with no migration of colour or blurring.



A printed design that has a sharp, welldefined edge with no migration of colour or blurring. garments, An oblong, triangle or An oblong, triangle or made-ups, square piece of fabric square piece of fabric made of a great variety assemblies made of a great variety of fibres in a of fibres in a wide range wide range of sizes of sizes. Worn as loose covering for the head and/or shoulders defects Fabric defect. Fabric defect. An



832 Word



Category



SHEAR STRAINING



fabrics



SHEARED TERRY PILE SHEARING



fabrics fibers, filaments, yarns, fabrics fabrics



SHEARING PROPERTY



Short description



Description unevenly marked, or cut, nap on the cloth. Slubs, knots, and kinks often tend to make for unevenness in shearing. Shear marks easily show to poor advantage when light strikes the fabric. See under Shearing See under Shearing property. property. See under Velour See under Velour Cutting fleece from 1. Cutting fleece from sheep. sheep. 2. See Cropping. The deformation of a The deformation of a fabric structure in which fabric structure in a rectangular element which a rectangular becomes lozenge element becomes lozenge shaped is shaped is termed shear straining. In woven termed shear fabrics this results from straining. movement of yarns from normal position in which yarns run horizontally and vertically and interlace at right angles, to other positions in which the interlacing is deformed to less than 90-degree angle. Bending and shear formation has an effect on drape and handle of fabrics. Fabrics that shear easily will be softer and more drapable. The draping qualities are affected by the stiffness of the fibre and yarn, the size of the yarn, and particularly the fabric construction. In tight structures, especially where coarse yarns are packed tightly together, fabrics are likely to be stiff and less drapable. In



833 Word



Category



SHEARS



apparatus, equipage, tools



SHEATH



fibers, filaments, yarns



SHEATH-CORE



fibers, filaments, yarns



SHED



processes, operations



SHEDDING



processes, operations



SHEEPSKIN



fabrics



Short description



Description loose structures where yarns can move easily over one another, fabrics are likely to be softer and drape more easily. In general, because of the ways in which yarns are combined, woven fabrics have higher shearability than knitted fabrics do. Warp knits have lower shearability than weft knits. A band cutting tool A band cutting tool similar to scissors, but similar to scissors, with angled blades and but with angled thumb rests, and with a blades and thumb cutting edge of at least rests, and with a 20 cm. cutting edge of at least 20 cm. IN FIBRE. The outer 1. IN FIBRE. The outer part of a fibre part of a fibre. 2. IN FEATHERS. A covering at the quill point end of nestling feathers or nestling down which holds the barbs together. A descriptive term for A descriptive term for a multicomponent textile a multicomponent fibre consisting of a textile fibre consisting continuous envelope of a continuous which encases a envelope which continuous, central, encases a continuous, central, internal region. See also Component polymer. internal region. The opening formed The opening formed when the warp threads when the warp are separated in the threads are operation of weaving. separated in the operation of weaving. The operation of The operation of forming forming the shed in the shed in weaving. See weaving. also Warp shed. The skin of the sheep The skin of the sheep or or goat with the wool goat with the wool on the on the outside or outside or inside. A inside. suede finish is usually applied to the skin side.



834 Word



Category



SHEER



fabrics



SHEET



SHEET BLANKET



garments, made-ups, assemblies fabrics



SHEETING



fabrics



Short description



Description Bulky to handle The name given to a The name given to a group of group of transparently transparently thin or thin or diaphanous fabric. diaphanous fabric Plain-weave type fabrics such as organdie, chiffon, organza, voile, where the fineness of the yarns and openness of the weave gives varying degrees of regular translucence and an even texture. The appearance of a very fine pair of ladies’ stockings illustrates the textural and visual properties conveyed by this expression. There is no clear distinction between sheer fabrics and nonsheer fabrics. Generally, the purchaser and the seller agree in advance into which category a fabric should be classified. See under Sheeting. See under Sheeting.



A thin blanket of cotton A thin blanket of cotton or cotton and or cotton and synthetic blend having a nap on synthetic blend both sides. having a nap on both sides. A class of fabrics in a A class of fabrics in a wide range of counts wide range of counts and and widths. widths. They are generally heavier than usual print fabrics are. Since the introduction of fitted sheets and duvets, sheeting has been made available as piece goods. It can be plain or printed and in all colours. Mostly cotton polyester blend for



835 Word



SHELL COTTON



SHELL-STTICH FABRIC



Category



Short description



Description easy care. Used for sheets, pillowcases, duvet covers, valances, curtains. Soft and easy to handle. Fitted sheet: A product usually made with boxed corners, sometimes elasticised, with shape and size to conform to the contours of the mattress and used for covering the mattress on a bed. Flannel: As applied to sheeting, a napped fabric used in the fabrication of sheeting products. Flat sheet: In textiles, a flat, hemmed product, usually rectangular, used for covering the mattress on a bed and used for sleeping on or under. Muslin: As applied to bed sheeting, a plain weave fabric with not fewer than 180 yarns/in2. Percale: As applied to bed sheeting, a plain weave fabric with not fewer than 180 yarns/in2. Sheet: In textiles, a large rectangular usually plain woven fabricated product which is used over a mattress on a bed. The product may be carded or combed yarn in a wide range of constructions. A class of heavy fibers, A class of heavy impurities found in filaments, impurities found in excessive seed yarns excessive seed coverings and fleshy coverings and fleshy kernels of cotton. kernels of cotton. fabrics A warp knitted fabric A warp knitted fabric having a raised shell- having a raised shell-like like surface surface produced by holding loops on certain



836 Word



Category



SHEPHERD’S CHECK



fabrics



SHEPHERD’S PLAID



fabrics



SHETLAND



fabrics



SHETLAND WOOL



fibers, filaments, yarns



Short description



Description needles while knitting takes place on others at each course. The arrangement of the held loops in pattern formation gives the shelllike effect. Description of a Description of a traditional Scottish traditional Scottish Border design in 6 mm Border design in 6 mm squares of black squares of black and white. The size of check and white. remains the same regardless of the thickness of the yarn. A twill weave, producing alternate solid black squares and diagonally striped squares. In wool it is used for shawls, caps, coats. In worsted, it is it is used for men’s suiting. In cotton, acrylic, polyester fibres, it is a lighter weight washable fabric used for shirts, sports clothes, children’s clothes. See also Checks. See Shepherd’s See Shepherd’s check. check. A suiting fabric made 1. A suiting fabric made wholly or partially of wholly or partially of Shetland wool. Shetland wool. The cloth has a raised finish and a rather soft handle. Used for suiting and sportswear. 2. A soft knitted fabric made of Shetland wool. Real Shetland wool is Real Shetland wool the underneath part of is the underneath fleece of Shetland part of fleece of sheep, pulled out by Shetland sheep, pulled out by hand in hand in springtime. It has a characteristic softness springtime and is made into yarn for soft suiting and knitting



837 Word



Category



Short description



SHIER



defects



Also called Shire



SHIFTING



defects



SHINER



defects



Distortion of a fabric due to unexpected movement of the yarns. Fabric defect



SHIPMENT



general



Goods or commodities which are transported together as a unit



SHIRE SHIRLEY CLOTH



defects fabrics



Same as Shier. A type of cotton fabric made of mercerised yarns produced from long-



Description yarns. Very expensive. The term is now often used to describe other woollen yarns of equal softness Also called Shire. Fabric defect in woven fabrics. The weftwise cracks randomly distributed across the fabric width. (Compare Let-off mark and Crack mark.) Distortion of a fabric due to unexpected movement of the yarns. Also called Slippage. Fabric defect. A streak, usually short, caused by a lustrous section of a filament yarn, caused mostly by excessive tension applied to the yarn during its processing. Faulty weaving also may give a flat effect to the yarn and can be easily noted when the rays of light strike the fabric. Improper friction in the mouth of the shuttle also sometimes cause the effect on fabrics. They appear mostly in fabrics of filament acetate or rayon and silk Goods or commodities which are transported together as a unit; a quantity of product for which a bill of lading has been signed by the carrier. Same as Shier. A type of cotton fabric made of mercerised yarns produced from long-staple cotton. Ply



838 Word



Category



Short description staple cotton.



SHIRRED FABRICS



fabrics



A range of fabrics with one edge elasticised to a depth of 6-10 cm and made available as ready-to sew skirt and sundress fabrics



SHIRRING



seams, stitches



A decorative method of controlling fullness with several parallel rows of gathering,



SHIRT COLLAR INTERFACING SEW-IN SHIRTING



accessories



See under Sew-in woven interfacing. Any fabric of any fibre that is closely woven and implies absorbent, hardwearing qualities.



SHIVES



defects



Fabric defect.



SHODDY



fibers,



Fibres made from



fabrics



Description yarns are used in the warp, with a soft twist yarn in the weft. When the fabric is wet, the fibres (especially those in the weft) swell and set up a barrier against further moisture A range of fabrics with one edge elasticised to a depth of 6-10 cm and made available as readyto sew skirt and sundress fabrics. Very easy to sew, as only one seam has to be sewn to make a skirt. Often of cotton fabric, but may be of others such as polyester, usually printed. Often sold as ready-cut skirt lengths. Used for casual clothes and children’s tops and dresses. A decorative method of controlling fullness with several parallel rows of gathering, which is usually done with multineedle chain stitch machines using elastic thread in the looper. See under Sew-in woven interfacing. Any fabric of any fibre that is closely woven and implies absorbent, hardwearing qualities. The most common are made from cotton, silk, polyester and cotton. Fabric defect. Vegetable matter found in woollen fabrics such as neps, straw, leaf particles, motes, etc. Fibres made from



839 Word



Category filaments, yarns



SHOE FOLD



fabrics



SHOOT



SHORN PILE



fabrics, processes, operations fabrics



SHORT STAPLE SPINNING



processes, operations



SHORT WOOLS



fibers, filaments, yarns



SHOT SHOT EFFECT



SHOT TAFFETA



Short description Description ground-up rags and ground-up rags and mixed with other mixed with other fibres to fibres to reduce cost reduce cost. See also Re-manufactured wool. A method of fabric A method of fabric folding folding; fabric folded from both ends into twelve or sixteen folds to the piece, the length of the fold depending upon the length of the piece. (Compare Book fold.) See Pick. See Pick.



Pile that is removed when a specimen is sheared. The use of cotton spinning machinery



Pile that is removed when a specimen is sheared. The use of cotton spinning machinery to produce staple yarns from cotton or any other type of fibre possessing similar length and fineness. See also Cotton spun Those wools which average in length between 1 to 6 inches in staple length.



Those wools which average in length between 1 to 6 inches in staple length. fabrics See Pick. See Pick. 1. Term used to describe fabrics, Term used to the effect created by garments, describe the effect made-ups, created by using one using one colour in the warp and a totally assemblies colour in the warp and a totally different different colour in the weft. Any fibre may be colour in the weft. used, but the most effective are the shiny ones, such as acetate, polyester and silk. See also Changeable effect. 2. In pile floor covering, The number of weft yarns per row of tufts. fabrics One of the most One of the most



840 Word



Category



SHOTTING YARN



fibers, filaments, yarns accessories



SHOULDER



SHOULDER JOINT



SHOULDER LENGTH



SHOULDER SLOPE



SHOWER CURTAIN



SHOWER-PROOF



SHOWER-PROOF FABRIC



Short description luxurious types of Taffeta



A single weft yarn used in weaving gunny sacking. In zippers, the bearing surface of an interlocking element by which the chain is contained inside the flanges of the slider. garments, Garment-related made-ups, term. assemblies garments, Garment-related term made-ups, assemblies garments, Garment-related made-ups, term. assemblies garments, A hanging fabric made-ups, used to prevent assemblies water spillage from a shower area. processes, A process by which a operations garment is made resistant to light rain



fabrics



Description luxurious types of Taffeta, as it is made from two colours and can be seen to change colour as wearer moves. See also Shot A single weft yarn used in weaving gunny sacking. In zippers, the bearing surface of an interlocking element by which the chain is contained inside the flanges of the slider. Garment-related term. See under Garment sizing system Garment-related term. See under Garment sizing system. Garment-related term. See under Garment sizing system A hanging fabric used to prevent water spillage from a shower area.



A process by which a garment is made resistant to light rain; it is always described as shower proofing not waterproofing A base fabric of cotton, A base fabric of cotton, or polyester or polyester and cotton, resembling cheesecloth and cotton, in appearance and resembling sprayed on one side with cheesecloth in latex to make it showerappearance and sprayed on one side proof. The layer of latex with latex to make it is quite thin so the right side of the fabric is wrinshower-proof. kled like cheesecloth. It is a soft, fairly floppy fabric. Used for raincoats, jackets, hats,



841 Word



Category



Short description



SHOWER-PROOF POLYESTER/COTTON



fabrics



Medium-weight fabric with a shower-proof finish, usually in plain colours only.



SHOWER-PROOFED CORDS SHRINK RESISTANT



fabrics



See under Corduroy



fabrics



A fabric that has been stabilised to shrinkage.



SHRINKAGE



general



Description etc. Does not fray at all. Medium-weight fabric with a shower-proof finish, usually in plain colours only. Used for raincoats, anoraks, etc. Seams may be inclined to wrinkle, especially across the warp direction. Springy fabric. See under Corduroy A fabric that has been stabilised to shrinkage. Mechanical means, chemical modification of the fibres and resin treatments may be employed to prevent fabrics from shrinking A dimensional change of an object or material resulting in a decrease in one or more dimensions i.e. the length or width of a specimen.



A dimensional change of an object or material resulting in a decrease in one or more dimensions i.e. the length or width of a specimen. Various processes, SHRINKAGE CONTROL processes, Various processes, either mechanical or operations either mechanical or chemical, are used to chemical, are used to minimise shrinkage of minimise shrinkage fabrics and garments; of fabrics and compressive shrinkage garments of a cotton fabric holds residual shrinkage to less than 1 % in either width or length. SHRINKAGE OF COTTON fabrics Relaxation There are two types of FABRICS shrinkage, Washing shrinkage in cotton shrinkage fabrics. Relaxation shrinkage: Relaxation shrinkage is caused by relaxing of tensions imposed in fabric manufac-ture and finishing. The warmth and moisture of washing processes provide ideal



842 Word



Category



Short description



Description relaxation conditions. As cotton is not a very extensible fibre relaxation shrinkage is not great and in itself is not a problem. Washing shrinkage: Washing shrinkage is caused by physical adjustments in the fabric, brought about by swelling of the fibres when wet. When the interlaced yarns of a woven fabric swell room to accommodate this swelling must be found. This room is most commonly provided by the weft yarns being compressed closer together, by the warp yarns which interlace with them. This compressing action takes place over a number of washes until equilibrium is reached and the fabric will not shrink any further. This was the rea-son why prewashing of fabric was never a success as shrinkage treatment because one wash is never suffi-cient and in any case many felt that it left the fabric secondhand looking without the smart mill finish. Widthway shrinkage is not normally a problem except in special fabric types such as crêpe; most shrinkage is in length because the initial tension on the warp yarns usually spaces the weft yarns sufficiently for



843 Word



Category



SHRINKAGE OF WOOL FABRIC



fabrics



Short description



Description com-pression room to be available. There is no contraction of individual cotton fibres. Relaxation They are subject to two Shrinkage, Milling or forms of shrinkage. Felting Shrinkage Relaxation Shrinkage: Wool has considerable powers of extension and recovery so that tensions are accu-mulated during manufacture and finishing. When all processes are completed the wool fibres if left alone will try to creep back to their unstressed length. In fabrics also tension in warp direction is the greater so greater relaxation contraction takes place in that direction. Because of the stretching capacity of wool, and because relaxation shrinkage is completely independent of washing, it presents a great problem in wool fab-ric use. Wool shrinks when washed, but relaxation shrinkage a complete mystery for many when it happens without washing contact. Heat and moisture produced in pressing or even in wear can produce relaxation shrinkage. Knitted wool fabrics are also subject to relaxation shrinkage, but it is area shrinkage and not as directional as in woven fabric. Because of the greater elasticity of knitted structure control of dimensional stability of



844 Word



Category



Short description



Description knitted fabrics is more difficult. Milling or Felting Shrinkage: Because of the well known difficulties in washing, many wool fabrics are not intended to be washed but even so some degree of felting can take place. Felting is produced by the combined effect of heat, moisture and movement on a mass of wool fibres. Heat and moisture make the fibres swollen and soft and flexible. In this condition they readily move when the mass is agitated. A dominant characteristic of the wool fibre is the scaly surface which varies accordingly to quality. Soft fine wool are covered with scales and the scale-tips project giving a serrated edge to the fibre. The tips project in the same direction and this has a ratchet effect, i.e. it allows movement in one direction only. Movement in the opposite direction is prevented by the protruding scale tips and the fibres catch and tangle with each other as they attempt to move back. This one-way movement causes a mass of fibres to gradually become denser as felting proceeds with a consequent reduction in volume. Felting is progressive and shrinkage will occur as



845 Word



Category



SHROPSHIRE



fibers, filaments, yarns



SHROUD LAID ROPE SHUTTLE



accessories apparatus, equipage, tools



SHUTTLE BOX



apparatus, equipage, tools



SHUTTLE MARK



defects



Short description



Description long as felting conditions operate so that preshrinking, as for cotton, is completely ineffective. The common-sense washing instructions for wool, i.e. luke warm water, mild soap, minimum of rubbing and squeezing are designed to minimise felting and to delay its onset. The basic principle of ant-felting treatment is of modifying the surface scale structure to allow two-way fi-bre movement. A woollen fibre type A woollen fibre type named after the named after the county county of Shropshire. of Shropshire. The staple is about 3 inches long. See under Rope. See under Rope. 1. IN LOOM. A yarn IN LOOM. A yarn package carrier that package carrier that is projected through the is projected through shed to insert weft yarn the shed to insert during weaving. It carries weft yarn during weaving. It carries sufficient weft for several picks. sufficient weft for 2. IN SEWING several picks. MACHINE. An oscillating device, used to carry the under-thread and pick up the needle thread in some types of lockstitch machines The compartment at The compartment at each end of the lay of each end of the lay of the the loom for retaining loom for retaining the the shuttle during shuttle during beatingbeating-up. up. Fabric defect. Also Fabric defect. Also called called Box mark, Box Box mark, Box stain. A stain fine weftwise line caused by damage to a group of warp yarns by shuttle abrasion or by oil stains



846 Word



SHUTTLE RACE



SHUTTLE SMASH



Category



Short description



apparatus, The shelf at the base equipage, of the reed on which tools the shuttle is carried. defects Also called Box mark. Defect, in woven fabric; major.



SHUTTLE TRAP MARK



defects



Fabric defect



SHUTTLELESS LOOM



apparatus, equipage, tools



A loom in which an alternative to the shuttle is used.



Description of some sort from the shuttle. The shelf at the base of the reed on which the shuttle is carried. Also called Box mark. Defect, in woven fabric; major. This occurs when a few or many warp ends are broken because of an imperfect shuttle being used, or when two shuttles meet or ‘kiss’ in the shed of the loom. Other reasons for smashes include a trapped shuttle in the shed of the loom or a harness strap loosening or breaking altogether Fabric defect. A disturbance of the weave or a localised pucker of the fabric that extends over an area corresponding to the dimensions of a shuttle. It is caused mainly by an incomplete cycle of the picking motion, resulting a trapping of the shuttle between the reed and the fell of the cloth A loom in which an alternative to the shuttle is used. Such looms currently in industrial use can be grouped into three main classes according to the means employed to convey the weft through the warp shed. Missile loom: The free end of the weft is attached to a missile which is projected from one side of the loom to



847 Word



Category



Short description



Description the other; once launched it moves freely, no longer in contact with the picking- mechanism, and thus, like a shuttle, is not a normal engineering component, so that looms employing this method must be reckoned as imperfect machines. The missiles are also variously referred to as Grippershuttle, Gripper, Dummyshuttle, or Projectiles. Rapier loom: An arm is used, which may be rigid or flexible, either to take the weft all the way across or to take it halfway and transfer it to another arm which has entered the shed simultaneously from the opposite side and withdraws to take it the rest of the way. An arm may operate on the weft either by gripping its free end or by engaging a loop which slips freely through an eye or round a pin or other smooth control surface situated near the end of the arm. The arms used on narrow-fabric and carpet looms are rigid and are called needles; the former are usually curved, the latter straight. The arms on other looms are usually called rapi-ers, whether or not they are rigid, but flexible rapiers are also called tapes, which, apart from their gripping or guiding heads, is an



848 Word



SHUTTLELESS WEAVING SI UNIT SYSTEM SICILIENNE



SIDDO RAGS



Category



Short description



processes, Weaving with a operations shuttleless loom. general See International unit system. fabrics First made in Sicily as a coarse-weave lining fabric of mohair and cotton



garments, made-ups, assemblies



Also called Syddo rags.



Description accurate description of the form they take. Fluid-jet loom: In this the method of conveying the weft is to propel it by means of a fluid-jet, using the word fluid in its scientific sense to include gases as well as liquids. The fluid used is in fact, either air or water, and normally the looms employing this method are referred to more specifically as either Air-jet or Wa-ter-jet looms. From main points of view it is legitimate to consider these two kinds of weft insertion as being distinct, because a jet of water behaves differently from one of air and, by wetting the warp, weft, cloth and many loom components, creates problems not present with any other type of loom Weaving with a shuttleless loom. See International unit system. First made in Sicily as a coarse-weave lining fabric of mohair and cotton. Is now a plainwoven fabric with heavy weft ribs, made from silk, cotton and wool mixtures and resembling poplin in appearance. It is used as an occasional dress fabric. Also called Syddo rags. Rags consisting of interlinings from garments. The best



849 Word



SIDE TO SIDE SIDE WITHDRAWAL



SIDE-BY SIDE BICOMPONENT SIDES SIEVE



SIGHTING COLOUR SILENCE CLOTH



Category



Short description



Description types are produced from fabrics made from yarns of hair, or blends of hair with wool, made on the worsted system. See Square Repeat See Square Repeat



processes, operations processes, The unwinding of operations yarn from a package with the yarn roughly perpendicular to the package axis. fibers, See under filaments, Bicomponent fibres yarns fabrics See under Knitted Loop apparatus, In printing, the part of equipage, a ‘swimming-tub’ tools which furnishes the block with colour. ³ See Fugitive tint. fabrics A heavy, thick cotton flannel fabric used as pad under tablecloths to protect the table top and deaden noise.



SILESIA



fabrics



SILHICON



fibers, filaments, yarns



SILHOUETTE



fabrics



The unwinding of yarn from a package with the yarn roughly perpendicular to the package axis. See under Bicomponent fibres See under Knitted Loop



In printing, the part of a ‘swimming-tub’ which furnishes the block with colour. See Fugitive tint. 1. A heavy, thick cotton flannel fabric used as pad under tablecloths to protect the table top and deaden noise. 2. Draperies and wall coverings used in audio studios and elsewhere to absorb sound. Lightweight cotton Lightweight cotton twill twill fabric with a fabric with a calendered calendered glaze. glaze. Is very closely woven and very hardwearing. Made in a limited range of colours. Used as a lining fabric, and in tailoring for the bags of pockets. A bast fibre obtained A bast fibre obtained from several pieces from several pieces of Sida, in the Philippines. of Sida, in the Used mainly for making Philippines. twine and sometimes for fabric A plain weave fabric A plain weave fabric



850 Word



SILICA FIBRES



SILICATE COTTON



SILK



Category



Short description made with cotton warp and different coloured linen warp



Description made with cotton warp and different coloured linen warp to produce a changeable effect. fibers, Commonly described Commonly described filaments, also as Ceramic also as Ceramic fibres. yarns fibres. These are inorganic fibres, and they come within the category of ‘high-temperature fibres’. Silica fibres made by different methods are similar, in that they are all basically silica, but they differ in certain characteristics which derive from differences in their methods of production; Quartz fibres, Silica (G) fibres, and Silica (V) fibres. fibers, See Slag wool. See Slag wool. filaments, yarns A natural fibre unreeled fibers, A natural fibre from the cocoon of the filaments, unreeled from the silk worm. As a textile yarns cocoon of the silk fibre silk occupies a very worm. unique position, though relatively only a very small quantity is produced. No other fibre possesses such a combination of beauty and strength. It is expensive and scarce; hence as a clothing fibre it is always associ-ated with class and status. It is the only natural filament used for textile purposes. There are two main types; ‘Mulberry silk’ and ‘Tussah silk’. There are various types silk fabrics, e.g. Brocade, Douppion, Crêpe de chine, Satin, etc.



851 Word



Category



Short description



Description The filament is excreted by the silkworm, the caterpillar of a moth, in the form of a so-called ‘bave’. This consists of two separate, very fine, continuous filaments of the true silk fibre composed of fibroin, embed-ded in a surrounding sheath of ‘sericin’, also known as silk-gum. The gum amounts to between 20 t0 25% of the total weight of the ‘bave’. With the twin filament the caterpillar produces a protective casing known as a cocoon around itself before the chrysalis stage of its life. Inside this casing it would normally change into a moth and emerge when the change had been completed. Silk filaments are obtained by unwinding the cocoons in groups of six to eight at a time and reeling the re-sultant fine thread, after the silkworms have been stifled by steam. This is a tedious operation requiring much skill, because to obtain a regular even thread the beginning and end parts have to be discarded, so that although a cocoon can contain about 3000 metres of filament the amount of ‘first quality’ filament can be less than 1000 m. The sericin is dispersed by hot soap solutions to which a mild



852 Word



Category



Short description



Description alkali such as sodium car-bonate may be added. The fibroin which remains after removal of the gum is a protein fibre The bulk of silk produced is cultivated; i.e. the silkworms are reared on farms and cared for at every stage of development. Suitable climate is of prime importance for silk production. China and Japan produce most of the world’s cultivated silk; southern France, Italy and parts of Asia produce small quantities. Silk is elastic and resilient similar to wool though not quite as good, and fairly strong though slightly lesser than cotton. Silk is crease-resistant, not so good as wool, but superior to cotton and linen. They can be treated to give them ‘scroop’ (rustling sound with movement), and also can be stiffened by ‘weighing’ with certain salts to produce fabrics with more body, a firmer drape and freedom from slippage of yarns. This unique combination of properties, together with its rich lustre, fineness, absorbency, smoothness, and superb drape enables silk to be converted into many beautiful types of fabrics, varying from delicate chiffons to beautiful heavy



853 Word



SILK BURLAP



SILK FINISHED



SILK JACQUARD



SILK JERSEY



Category



Short description



Description brocades. In addition there are ‘wild silks’, the best-known variety wild silk is Tussah silk. See Wild silk and Tussah silk. Waste filaments from all stages of production is converted into ‘spun silk’, i.e. lengths of filament spun as staple fibres. This type of material lacks lustre, fineness and general character of filament silk. fabrics Silk fabric of linen Silk fabric of linen weight, but feels light weight, but feels light and drapes well and drapes well. Various widths. Used for suits and dresses. processes, A finish employed on A finish employed on sewing cottons to give operations sewing cottons to give them the smooth them the smooth glossy glossy appearance of appearance of silk. The cotton is treated with a silk. special finishing material and polished fabrics Medium-weight, Medium-weight, luxurious, patterned, luxurious, patterned, silk silk fabrics fabrics. Depending on the design, the Jacquard weave may give a moiré effect. Fabrics drape well and as silk dyes so well, will often be found in jewel-rich colours. Used for evening and bridal wear, luxury suits, blouses and kimonos. fabrics Fine, lightweight Fine, lightweight knitted knitted fabric, often fabric, often printed. printed. Drapes beautifully, wears well and always looks superb. Used for special outfits; dresses, blouses, long dresses. Like all light jersey, it has a lot of elasticity.



854 Word SILK LAP



Category processes, operations



Short description In warp knitting, a lapping movement produced on a Milanese machine



SILK MOUSSELINE SILK NOIL



fabrics fibers, filaments, yarns



See Mousseline. The fibres extracted during silk dressing or those that are too short for producing spun silk



SILK NOIL FABRIC



fabrics



An attractive silk fabric of dress or suit weight



SILK SATIN



fabrics



Very soft lustrous fabric for luxury lingerie.



SILK SHANTUNG



fabrics



Medium weight silk fabric woven with irregular yarns.



SILK THREAD



fibers, filaments, yarns



A synonym for ply in silk



Description In warp knitting, a lapping movement produced on a Milanese machine in which the yarn traverses two wales per course. See also Milanese. See Mousseline. The fibres extracted during silk dressing or those that are too short for producing spun silk. These fibres are usually spun on the condenser system to produce what are known as silk noil yarns. See also Bourette. An attractive silk fabric of dress or suit weight, its feature is that it has small pieces of cocoon woven in it and these appear as dark cream flecks Very soft lustrous fabric for luxury lingerie. Is expensive and drapes beautifully but creases. Used for all items of lingerie, especially in conjunction with lace. Medium weight silk fabric woven with irregular yarns. The fabric has a dull appearance and rough texture and is popular for blouses, shirts and dresses. It is also referred to as Nankeen or Rajah and also sometimes carries the name of the province where the yarn originated A synonym for ply in silk, e.g. 2 thread and 2 ply may both be used to describe a silk thread.



855 Word SILK TWILL



Category fabrics



Short description Soft twill weave silk fabric without much body, usually printed.



SIMILI BINDING SIMILI MERCERIZING



fabrics processes, operations



See under Binding. A calendering process for increasing lustre.



SIMPLE RANDOM SAMPLING SIMPLEX FABRIC



processes, Same as Random operations sampling. fabrics A reversible doublefaced fabric usually made on two needle bars of a beardedneedle warp-knitting machine



SIMPLEX PRINTING



processes, Printing of one side operations of the cloth only. apparatus, A double needle bar equipage, machine using tools bearded needles mounted vertically or nearly so, in which the fabric is supported and controlled by sinkers.



SIMPLEX WARPKNITTING MACHINE



SIMULTANEOUS CONTRAST



fabrics



An effect produced when two colours are placed side by side



Description Soft twill weave silk fabric without much body, usually printed. Printed squares often made up as scarves. Used for blouses, decorative features, and pyjamas. See under Binding. A calendering process for increasing lustre. The effect is similar to that obtained by mercerising but is not permanent Same as Random sampling. A reversible doublefaced fabric usually made on two needle bars of a bearded-needle warp-knitting machine; the two sets of warp threads are meshed together successively on each needle bar to produce a fabric that normally has the same appearance on both sides Printing of one side of the cloth only. A double needle bar machine using bearded needles mounted vertically or nearly so, in which the fabric is supported and controlled by sinkers. The fabric is removed from the knitting zone in a downward direction. An effect produced when two colours are placed side by side; each takes on the shade or tinge of the adja-cent colour’s complement



856 Word Category SIMULTANEOUS DRAW- processes, TEXTURING operations SINGEING processes, operations



SINGLE BAR ATLAS FABRIC



SINGLE CANVAS



SINGLE HEAD LOOM



SINGLE JERSEY



Short description Description See under Draw See under Draw texturing. texturing. The process of burning The process of burning loose fibre loose fibre ends or fuzz from cotton yarns or ends or fuzz from cotton yarns or cloth cloth by passing it over a by passing it over a flame or heated plates. This gives the fabric a flame or heated smoother surface and is plates. helpful when fabrics are to be printed and when smooth finishes are desired. Same as Gassing. fabrics Fabric. Also called Fabric. Also called Vandyke fabric, Vandyke fabric, Shadow Shadow stripe fabric. stripe fabric. A warpknitted fabric characterised by having one set of threads traversing in a diagonal manner, one wale per course for a number of courses, returning in the same manner to the original wale. Open or closed laps may be used. Popular plain weave fabrics Popular plain weave cotton, or cotton and cotton, or cotton and polyester, embroidery polyester, canvas of fine embroidery canvas of construction, with easily fine construction dis-tinguished holes between the warp and weft threads apparatus, A narrow-fabric loom A narrow-fabric loom that equipage, that weaves one weaves one piece only. tools piece only. Made on knitting fabrics Made on knitting machines with one machines with one row of needles producing a row of needles producing a fabric fabric that is smooth and even on the right side, that is smooth and but uneven on the under even on the right side. The fabric is side, but uneven on lightweight and tends to the under side. curl at edges. Used for



857 Word



SINGLE JERSEY (PLAIN WEB) KNITTING MACHINE



Category



Short description



apparatus, A machine, usually equipage, circular, with a single tools set of needles



SINGLE JERSEY JACQUARD, WEFTKNITTED



fabrics



A patterned singlejersey weft-knitted fabric, usually made from two or more yarns of differing colour or texture to give a construction that consists essentially of knitted and float loops, but may incorporate tuck loops.



SINGLE JERSEY TUCK JACQUARD, WEFT-



fabrics



A patterned singlejersey weft knitted



Description tops and trousers. Made from all fibres and blends of fibres. Often wool, but may contain a little acrylic fibre. Is a knit fabric that is thin and curls at the edges. The right side only has the stocking stitch appearance; the wrong side is the reverse and like hand knitting in effect. Single jersey may be in plain or mixed colours, in random stripes, or with a marked appearance. It is soft and drapy. Used for soft gathered dresses and suits. See also Jersey. A machine, usually circular, with a single set of needles, used for the production of piece goods on a plain fabric basis A patterned single-jersey weft-knitted fabric, usually made from two or more yarns of differing colour or texture to give a construction that consists essentially of knitted and float loops, but may incorporate tuck loops. The surface pattern is derived from the chosen arrangement of the yarns and of the knitted and float loops. The inclusion of tuck loops into the construction eliminates long lengths of floating threads from the back of the fabric A patterned single-jersey weft knitted fabric usually



858 Word KNITTED



Category



Short description Description fabric usually made made from two or more yarns differing in colour from two or more or texture in construction yarns differing in that consists of knitted colour or texture in and tuck loops. The construction that consists of knitted surface pattern is derived from a chosen and tuck loops. arrangement of the yarn and of the knitted and tuck loops. SINGLE KNIT fabrics Same as Single Same as Single jersey jersey In weaving, a term SINGLE LIFT processes, In weaving, a term applied to lever dobbies operations applied to lever and jacquard dobbies and jacquard mechanisms in which mechanisms in which a a single knife or griffe single knife or griffe is is used to effect a lift. used to effect a lift. A closed shed is produced. SINGLE MARL, fibers, See under Worsted See under Worsted WORSTED filaments, yarns SINGLE MOTTLE fibers, See under Worsted. See under Worsted. filaments, yarns A non-jacquard double SINGLE PIQUÉ, WEFT fabrics A non-jacquard KNITTTED double jersey fabric jersey fabric made on an made on an interlock interlock basis using a basis using a selection of knitted and selection of knitted tuck loops. The fabric is and tuck loops. sometimes called ‘cross tuck’. In acceptance sampling, SINGLE SAMPLING processes, In acceptance a sampling plan for operations sampling, a sampling which the decision to plan for which the decision to accept or accept or reject a lot is based on a single reject a lot is based sample. on a single sample. SINGLE SATIN RIBBON accessories A ribbon woven from A ribbon woven from continuous filament continuous filament yarns yarns, formerly in silk, having a satin face on one side only and a contrasting edge SINGLE THREAD CHAIN seams, Stitch formed by a Stitch formed by a single STITCH stitches single thread passed thread passed through through the fabric by the fabric by the needle



859 Word



Category



SINGLE TWIST



fibers, filaments, yarns



SINGLE YARN



fibers, filaments, yarns



SINGLE-BREASTED(S.B.) garments, made-ups, assemblies



SINGLE-LEVEL PILE



SINGLES



SINGLING



garments, made-ups, assemblies fibers, filaments, yarns



defects



Short description Description the needle and and looped by the looped by the previous stitch under the previous stitch under fabric. See also Chain the fabric. stitch. The amount of twist The amount of twist in each individual single in each individual single yarn element yarn element in a cord structure based on the in a cord structure length of the element after twist has been removed from the cord. A variety of yarn in A variety of yarn in which which the fibres are the fibres are twisted in twisted in only one only one direction and direction forming the simplest strand of fibres suitable for weaving, knitting, etc. See Singles. Style of coat with Style of coat with minimum overlap minimum overlap (usually left over right for men and vice versa for women) and a centre front fastening In floor coverings, In floor coverings, having having all pile tufts at all pile tufts at the same the same level. level. One strand of yarn, One strand of yarn, not not plied. A mass of plied. A mass of fibres or number of filaments fibres or number of bound together into filaments bound coherent yarn. together into The simplest strand of coherent yarn. textile material suitable for operations such as weaving, knitting etc. A term widely used in the U.S. for single yarn, especially cotton. See also Doubles. Process defect Process defect. The condition caused by the breaking of one or more strands in a plying operation with resulting unevenness in the finished product. A defect in a yarn



860 Word



Category



SINKAGE



processes, operations



SINKER



apparatus, equipage, tools



SINKERS



apparatus, equipage, tools



SINNET ROPE SISAL



accessories fibers, filaments, yarns



Short description



Description caused when one or more strands are broken in the plying process. This shall cause unevenness in the finished cloth. Loss of mass in wool 1. Loss of mass in wool cleansing, usually cleansing, usually expressed as a expressed as a percentage percentage. 2. Unaccounted or ‘invisible’ loss of mass in processing, usually expressed as a percentage In weaving, a link in a In weaving, a link in a pattern or boxchain pattern or boxchain which activates the lowering of a harness frame or the shuttle boxes. In knitting, In knitting, mechanisms mechanisms that that assist needles in assist needles in forming loops. All types forming loops. consist of shaped thin metal plates situated between, and alternating with, needles. Loop forming sinkers: Mechanisms that assist needles in forming loops by directly pushing a measured length of yarn around needles. Web holding sinkers: Mechanisms that assist needles in forming loops by supporting the already formed knitted fabric during loop formation and preventing the fabric rising as the needles rise during the knitting cycle. See Sennit rope. See Sennit rope. Coarse vegetable Coarse vegetable fibres fibres manufactured manufactured from from leaves. leaves. They are a cream colour and are



861 Word



SIVAL MACHINE



SIX-BY-THREE RIB FABRIC SIZE



SIZE PENETRATION



SIZE SHEDDING



Category



Short description



Description used for matting and rope. See under Lace machines.



apparatus, See under Lace equipage, machines. tools fabrics See under Rib fabric, See under Rib fabric, weft-knitted. weft-knitted. A generic term for ³ A generic term for gelatinous film-forming gelatinous filmforming substance, in substance, in solution or dispersion normally solution or dispersion applied on yarn or normally applied on fabrics. When size is yarn or fabrics. used on yarn or fabric, it forms a more or less continuous solid film around the yarn and individual fibres. In yarn form sizing is done chiefly on warp threads, but sometimes on wefts too. Siz-ing is applied: to warp yarn to bind the fibres together, and stiffen and strengthen the yarn, to crêpe yarn to set the twist and assist crêping, to sewing thread to bind the strands together and leave a smooth, lubricated, pliable yarn, to fabrics to improve their physical properties such as weight and stiffness, to airplane fabrics to make them taut, to balloon fabrics to make them less permeable to gases, and to fabrics to produce a glazed, lustrous effect. processes, The degree to which The degree to which a operations a size penetrates to size penetrates to the the core of a yarn. core of a yarn. processes, The removal of size The removal of size operations particles from the particles from the yarn yarn during during processing.



862 Word SIZING



SIZING SYSTEM



SKEIN



SKEIN BREAK FACTOR



SKEIN DYEING SKETCH SKEWNESS



SKIN BACKS SKIN WOOL



SKIP SKIP DENT



Category



Short description processing. processes, Also called Dressing. operations



garments, Garment-related made-ups, term. assemblies fibers, A continuous strand filaments, of yarn in the form of yarns a flexible coil



fibers, filaments, yarns



The comparative breaking load of a skein of yarn adjusted for the linear density of the yarn expressed in an indirect system



Description Also called Dressing. The operation of applying a size compound to yarn or fabric. See also Size, Slashing and Filler Garment-related term. See under Garment sizing system. 1. A continuous strand of yarn in the form of a flexible coil having a large circumference in proportion to its thickness. 2. See Hank. The comparative breaking load of a skein of yarn adjusted for the linear density of the yarn expressed in an indirect system; the product of the breaking load of the skein and the yarn number expressed in an indirect system See Hank dyeing



processes, See Hank dyeing operations accessories See separation See separation defects Also called Bias, Bias Also called Bias, Bias filling, Askewed. filling, Askewed. Fabric Fabric defect defect. A fabric condition resulting when weft yarns or knitted courses are angularly displaced from a line perpendicular to the edge or side of the fabric. See also Bowing. defects See Broken filaments See Broken filaments fibers, See Pulled wool. See Pulled wool. filaments, yarns defects See Float. See Float. fabrics, A dent in the reed 1. A dent in the reed defects through which no through which no warp



863 Word



Category



Short description warp yarn is drawn



SKIP DRAFT



fabrics



The passage of the warp ends of a repeat through harnesses



SKIPPING



defects



Fabric defect



SKIRT



garments, made-ups, assemblies



That part of a coat, dress or other garment, that hang below the waist.



SKITTERINESS



defects



An undesired speckled effect



SLACK COURSE



processes, operations



In weft knitting, a course of knitting made with loops longer than normal



SLACK END



defects



Also called Slack thread, Slack warp. Fabric defect.



Description yarn is drawn, in a weaving design. 2. If the above is done by mistake, it produces a fabric defect. The passage of the warp ends of a repeat through harnesses by skipping some of them to obtain a certain effect in the fabric. Fabric defect. Skipping or skip marks are caused by an irregular, uneven height of the harnesses in the shedding motion of the loom. The result is that the warp ends affected will not weave in regular formation with the filling at all times. Small float areas result and these are usually fixed during dry finishing of the fabric. 1. That part of a coat, dress or other garment, that hang below the waist. A garment worn by women, sus-pended from waist or hips. 2. See under Fringe. An undesired speckled effect arising from differences in colour between adjacent fibres or portions of the same fibre. In weft knitting, a course of knitting made with loops longer than normal for a special purpose, e.g. linking, running-on, etc. Also called Slack thread, Slack warp. Fabric defect. A warp yarn woven under insufficient



864 Word



Category



SLACK FILLING defects SLACK MERCERIZATION processes, operations



SLACK PICK



defects



SLACK SELVEDGE



defects



Short description



Description tension. See Slack pick. See Slack pick. Mercerising of a fabric in Mercerising of a fabric in absence of absence of tension, or under reduced tension. tension, or under After washing-off, the reduced tension. fabric remains in the shrunken condition, and consequently a high degree of yarn crimp is obtained and the fabric becomes more extensible. There are two reasons for operating this process: to produce a stretch fabric; or as part of the process for crease resisting linen. Dye absorption is increased but lustre is not. See also Mercerising. Also called Loose Also called Loose pick, pick, Slack filling. Slack filling. Fabric Fabric defect. defect. A single weft yarn under insufficient tension, which shows loops throughout the yarn. Also called Baggy Also called Baggy selvedge, Loose edge, selvedge, Loose Stringy selvedge, Wavy edge, Stringy selvedge. Fabric defect. selvedge, Wavy Slack ends in the fabric selvedge. Fabric edge. Caused by too defect. much of a spread, or cramming of selvedge ends in the reed, thereby creating slackness in the selvedge areas. Other causes include too loose a weave construction, use of improper yarns as the count, twist or ply; and the edge threads wound too hard or too high as to number on the warp beam.



865 Word SLACK THREAD SLACK WARP SLACKS



SLAG WOOL



Category Short description defects See Slack end. defects See Slack end. garments, Trousers normally made-ups, used for leisurewear assemblies for men or women fibers, A fibrous slag filaments, produced by pouring yarns molten slag, generally made from iron, into a vessel fitted with a steam injector, which blows the slag into the fibres.



SLAM-OFF



defects



SLASHING



processes, operations



SLAY



fabrics, apparatus,



Description See Slack end. See Slack end. Trousers normally used for leisurewear for men or women A fibrous slag produced by pouring molten slag, generally made from iron, into a vessel fitted with a steam injector, which blows the slag into the fibres. These fibres are used as felt for packing purposes and sometimes for insulation. Sometimes called Silicate cotton. Fabric defect, in Fabric defect, in woven woven fabrics. fabrics. A distortion due to the entrapment of the weft carrier in the shed. (Compare Smash.) 1. IN WEAVING. The IN WEAVING. The application of size application of size solution to yarns by solution to yarns by immersion into the immersion into the solution and squeezing solution and which is followed by squeezing drying to make the warp yarn more suitable for weaving. 2. IN PRINTING. The controlled distortion necessary to print horizontal stripes by engraved roller. The roller is engraved with the stripes set at an angle of 22½° to 30° from the horizontal and printed on to cloth stentered off-grain at the same angle. The same effect can be produced photographically on a Pull-in machine See sley See sley



866 Word



SLEAZY FABRIC



SLEEPERS



SLEEVE



SLEEVE CROWN



SLEEVE HEAD



SLEEVING



SLEY



SLEYING PLAN



Category Short description Description equipage, tools fabrics A thin, loosely woven A thin, loosely woven cheap fabric with cheap fabric with limp limp texture texture. Does not retain shape. Now it has come to describe any fabric which is unsatisfactory in construction. Ends that have been defects Ends that have been broken in warping and broken in warping beaming operations and and beaming operations and then then have been tangled and obscured by other have been tangled ends. A mill term for and obscured by sleepers is Lost ends. other ends. garments, That part of a That part of a garment, made-ups, garment, which which covers all, or part assemblies covers all, or part of of the arm the arm garments, The top section of The top section of the made-ups, the sleeve head sleeve head, which assemblies extends approximately 6 cm on either side of the shoulder seam. garments, The part of the top The part of the top made-ups, sleeve which is sleeve which is joined to assemblies joined to the scye. the scye. Braided, knitted, or fabrics Braided, knitted, or woven fabric of woven fabric of cylindrical form having a cylindrical form having a width less width less than 4 in. (100 than 4 in. (100 mm) mm) (circumference less than 8 in. (200 mm)). (circumference less See also Tubing. than 8 in. (200 mm)) Also called Slay. Also called Slay. fabrics, 1. IN WEAVING. The apparatus, number of warp ends per equipage, inch of fabric width, tools exclusive of selvedge. 2. IN LOOM. That oscillating part of a loom, positioned between the healds and the fell of the cloth, which carries the reed. fabrics See Reeding plan. See Reeding plan.



867 Word SLICKER-FABRIC



Category fabrics



SLIDE FASTENER SLIDE WASTE



accessories defects



SLIDER



accessories



SLIP RESISTANT



fabrics



SLIPCOVER



garments, made-ups, assemblies



SLIPE WOOL



fibers, filaments, yarns fabrics



SLIPPAGE



Short description Description A common name for A common name for textile fabrics which textile fabrics which have been waterproofed by have been coating the fabric with a waterproofed by waterproof film. Plain coating the fabric with a waterproof film weave rayon, silk, or cotton are the usual fabrics and a vast number of chemical substances are applicable. See Zipper. See Zipper. A yarn defect A yarn defect identified identified by its slubby its slub-like like appearance. appearance. A mass of entangled fibre encircles a yarn and can be slid easily along the end. In zippers, the part In zippers, the part that that opens a zipper opens a zipper when it is moved in one direction and closes the zipper when it is moved in the opposite direction. Fabric not prone to Fabric not prone to weft weft slippage. slippage. This is often achieved by chemical finishing treatments that also give firmness to the fabric A removable, fitted A removable, fitted protective textile cover, protective textile often decorative and cover, often specifically made for decorative and specifically made for upholstered furniture. upholstered furniture. See Furniture covering. See Pulled wool. See Pulled wool.



The tendency of fibres, filaments, yarn, or cloth to slip or slide when manipulated.



The tendency of fibres, filaments, yarn, or cloth to slip or slide when manipulated. In loosely woven fabrics the yarns may tend to separate, leaving open spaces. Also slippage may cause



868 Word



Category



Short description



SLIPPER SATIN



fabrics



Also called Jockey satin.



SLIPS



fabrics



A low grade cotton velvet fabric in which alternate floats are cut



SLIT FILM



fibers, filaments, yarns fibers, filaments, yarns



Yarn, produced by slitting extruded film.



SLIVER



SLIVER-KNITTED FABRIC



fabrics



Description trouble during cutting operations. Chemical treatments may be applied to retard slippage. Also called Shifting Also called Jockey satin. Heavy, closely woven, hardwearing, high quality satin made from continuous filament silk or man-made filament yarns. Used for wedding gowns, evening dresses, evening shoes, and jockeys blouses. It is less glossy than other satins due to the closeness of the weave, and because of this a more elegant fabric. See Satin A low grade cotton velvet fabric in which alternate floats are cut; in better velvets every float is cut, except in figured velvet. Yarn, produced by slitting extruded film.



A continuous strand A continuous strand of of loosely assembled loosely assembled fibres that is approximately fibres that is uniform in crossapproximately sectional area and uniform in crosswithout twist. An sectional area and indefinitely long without twist. assembly of staple fibres, substantially parallel and without twist, and capable of being drafted. A single-jersey fabric A single-jersey fabric in which untwisted staple in which untwisted fibres are knitted in at staple fibres are each loop to form a pile knitted in at each loop to form a pile surface on the technical back of the jersey surface on the structure. technical back of the



869 Word



Category



SLOT SEAM



seams, stitches



SLOUGH-OFF



defects



Short description jersey structure. A complex seam formed on the inside of the object, having a decorative seam underlay slightly visible from the face side, held in place by two visible rows of stitching.



WINDING DEFECT. Partial disintegration of a yarn package by the separation of one constituent layer of yarn from another.



Description A complex seam formed on the inside of the object, having a decorative seam underlay slightly visible from the face side, held in place by two visible rows of stitching. A slot seam is made by (1) machine basting the face sides of the fabric together 15 mm from the raw edges, (2) pressing open the seam, (3) clipping and basting stitches every four to five stitches to facilitate later removal of thread, (4) centering the underlay (which is approximately 38 mm wide) under the open seam allowance, (5) topstitching two lines an equal distance (approximately 6 mm) from the seamline on each side, and (6) removing the basting threads. The two topstitching rows are visible from the face side 1. WINDING DEFECT. Partial disintegration of a yarn package by the separation of one constituent layer of yarn from another. The slippage of a number of yarn coils during unwinding which usually causes a tangle. 2. FABRIC DEFECT. In woven fabrics. Caused by several coils of yarn slipping the weft bobbin simultane-ously and being woven into the fabric in a group.



870 Word SLUB



SLUB SILK



SLUB YARNS



Category Short description Description defects IN YARN. Also called 1. IN YARN. Also called Bunch, Lump, Bunch, Lump, Piecing, Piecing, Slug. Slug. An abruptly thickened place, in a yarn, caused by soft, thick and uneven place. Little balls of yarn at irregular intervals along a length of yarn, causing the fabric to have a surface interest and broken texture. See also Slub silk. (Compare Cockles.) 1. IN KNIT FABRICS. Fabric defect, usually caused due to thick or heavy place in yarn or lint getting onto yarn feeds. 2. IN WOVEN FABRIC. Fabric defect, usually caused by an extra piece of yarn that is woven into the fabric. It can also be caused by thick places in the yarn often caused by fly waste being spun in yarn in the spinning process. See also Slub yarns. fabrics Fabric made from silk Fabric made from silk yarns having nubs or yarns having nubs or balls of fibre at intervals. balls of fibre at The fabric has an intervals. interesting surface texture and is usually dress-weight and often crisp. fibers, A type of fancy yarn A type of fancy yarn. A filaments, yarn in which slubs are yarns deliberately created to produce a desired effect. Slub yarns are deliberately manufactured in fibres such as polyester, acetate, viscose. Generally, slubbed yarns



871 Word



Category



Short description



SLUBBY FILLING



defects



Fabric defect. Thick, uneven places in filling yarn caused by uneven yarn winding, poor carding, combing and/or spinning of the fibres in the manufacture of the yarn.



SLUBBY WARP



defects



Fabric defect.



SLUFF-OFFS SLUG



defects defects



See Slough-off YARN DEFECT. An abruptly thickened place in a yarn, caused by inclusion of fly or clearer waste along with regular fibres.



Description are made by two methods; spun slubs and plucked or inserted slubs. Fabric defect. Thick, uneven places in filling yarn caused by uneven yarn winding, poor carding, combing and/or spinning of the fibres in the manufacture of the yarn. Soft, slubby yarn results from some irregualrity in one of the manipulating machines or frames. Fabric defect. This is when some warp yarns become uneven because of short fibres or certain wastes working out of place usually as a result of improved settings for the number of twists per unit length in the yarns. Often referred to as ‘soft slub’ or ‘tight slub’ yarn See Slough-off 1. YARN DEFECT. An abruptly thickened place in a yarn, caused by inclusion of fly or clearer waste along with regular fibres. Same as Bunch, Lump, Piecing, Slub. 2. FABRIC DEFECT, IN RAW SILK. A thickened place several times the diameter of the yarn, 3 mm or over in length. 3. FABRIC DEFECT, IN GLASS. Unattentuated particles of glass of substantially larger diameter than the average filament diameter. Same as Lump, Piecing, Slub.



872 Word SMASH



SMOCKING



SMOOTH-DRYING



SMOOTHNESS APPEARANCE



SMOULDERING



SNAG



Category defects



Short description Also called Break out. Fabric defect, major, in woven fabrics.



Description Also called Break out. Fabric defect, major, in woven fabrics. It is caused by a number of ruptured warp ends that have been repaired. Accidental breakage of a large number of warp ends due to the entrapment of the shuttle or a place in the fabric where a large number of ends have been broken. A relatively large hole in the cloth characterised by many broken warp ends and floating picks. Compare Slam off. seams, Firm, ornamental and Firm, ornamental and functional rows of stitches functional rows of stitching to hold fullness stitching to hold in place. Used mainly for fullness in place. smocks, dresses and aprons. garments, See Easy-care. See Easy-care. made-ups, assemblies fabrics In fabrics, the visual In fabrics, the visual impression of impression of planarity of planarity of a a specimen quantified by specimen quantified comparison with a set of reference standards The combustion of a general The combustion of a solid material without solid material without accompaniment of accompaniment of flame but generally with the flame but generally with the production of production of smoke. See also Glow and smoke. Afterglow defects, A yarn or part of a 1. A yarn or part of a fabrics yarn pulled or yarn pulled or plucked plucked from the from the surface. See surface. also Pin hole. 2. In knitting. A pulled thread course-wise in weft knitting or wale-wise in warp knitting. In weft knitting a small snag is



873 Word



Category



SNAGGING RESISTANCE



fabrics



SNAP ACTION



Short description



In textile fabrics, the resistance to the formation of snags. accessories The force required to disengage a snap fastener



SNAP FASTENER



accessories



A device for attaching one material to another



SNAP FASTNERS



accessories



Used as garment closures.



Description called a ‘fish eye’ In textile fabrics, the resistance to the formation of snags. The force required to disengage a snap fastener resulting from a pull exerted perpendicular to the plane of material to which the snap fastener is attached. A device for attaching one material to another consisting of matching male and female parts, each of which is attached to a separate material so that the parts can be joined by a low compressive force and separated by a low perpendicular tensile force Used as garment closures. They provide a more secure closure, when compared to hookand-eye type. There are two basic types of snaps, sew-on snaps and gripper-type snaps. Sew-on types are made in two halves; the projecting ball half and the flatter socket half. Sew-on snaps are meant to be concealed between the garment layers for an invisible closure. The projecting ball half of the snap is sewn on the wrong side of the overlapping fabric layers. The flatter socket half goes on the right side of the underlap. Gripper-type snaps are



874 Word



Category



SNARE



defects



SNARL



defects



SNARL YARNS



fibers, filaments, yarns



SNARLY YARN



fibers, filaments, yarns



Short description



Description made in four pieces. They are affixed to the garment by pressure with a special tool, as they cannot be sewn on. Gripper snaps, some of which come with decorative caps, are attached to the to the right side of both overlap and underlap. They are most often used on children’s garments, jeans, denim jackets, and casual clothing. Fabric defect. Fabric Fabric defect. Fabric shows tangled masses shows tangled masses or clumps of or clumps of roving or yarn in a cloth; can be roving or yarn in a removed in burling and cloth specking operations. Yarn defect. Yarn defect. A part of the yarn where it folds and twists around itself. Same as Kink-in. A type of fancy yarn. A type of fancy yarn. A compound yarn that displays snarls or kinks projecting from the core. It is made by a similar method as a loop yarn, but, instead of a resilient thread, a lively highly twisted yarn is used. Thus, snarls are formed in place of loops when the tension is released at the front rollers. The snarls may be controlled to vary in size and frequency, either continuously or in groups at places along the yarn. Also called Lively Also called Lively yarn. yarn. Yarn that shows an excessive tendency to twist round itself if held with insufficient tension.



875 Word SNOW BALL SNOW CLOTH



SOAPING



SOFT FIBRE



SOFT FILLED



SOFT GOODS



SOFT LAID ROPE SOFT TWIST



SOFT WARP



Category defects fabrics



Short description Description See Fuzz ball. See Fuzz ball. Term is used to Term is used to describe describe any heavy any heavy outdoor cloth, outdoor cloth particularly those with nap or pile. processes, Treating fabric with a Treating fabric with a operations soap solution soap solution. Dyed and printed fabrics are soaped thoroughly in hot solution to remove excess unfixed colour present. fibers, See Bast fibre. See Bast fibre. filaments, yarns fabrics A fabric made with a A fabric made with a low low twist weft yarn. twist weft yarn. The thicker, softer twisted weft yarn makes the fabric suitable for napping. general A broad term for A broad term for textiles textiles and textile and textile products products accessories See under Rope. See under Rope. fibers, A comparative term A comparative term for yarn, especially spun filaments, for yarn, especially yarns spun types having a types having a relatively relatively low number low number of turns of twist per inch. Warp, of turns of twist per voile and crêpe yarns inch. have a high number of turns of twist, and weft yarns and knitting yarns (espe-cially spun types) a low number of turns. The yarns in the latter class are often described as “soft twist’. defects Fabric defect. Fabric defect. Usually a warp that has not been sized correctly, causing chafing and weakening of the ends as they go through the successive operations from yarn to fabric.



876 Word SOFT WASTE



SOFT WATER



SOFT WINDOW COVERINGS



SOIL



SOIL AFFINITY



SOIL REDEPOSITION



SOIL RELEASE



SOILED ENDS



SOILED FILLING



Category Short description Description fibers, Waste from slubbing, Waste from slubbing, filaments, roving, and wool roving, and wool tops. yarns tops. general Water, which is free Water, which is free from, dissolved from, dissolved mineral mineral salts salts. Water can be treated chemically to soften it. garments, Curtains, draperies, Curtains, draperies, or made-ups, or other accessories other accessories on wall assemblies on wall or window or window openings that are either lined or openings unlined and primarily constructed of textile fabrics. Dirt, oil or other fabrics Dirt, oil or other substances, not normally substances, not normally intended to intended to be present on a substrate such as be present on a textile material. substrate such as textile material. fabrics The reduction in The reduction in reflectance between reflectance between new new and soiled and soiled fabrics. See fabrics. also Cleanness. processes, The soiling of clean The soiling of clean or relatively clean fabric operations or relatively clean during the laundering fabric during the process by soil which laundering process has been removed from by soil which has another fabric been removed from another fabric processes, The degree to which The degree to which a soiled substrate operations a soiled substrate approaches its original, approaches its unsoiled appearance as original, unsoiled a result of a care appearance as a procedure. result of a care procedure. defects Also called Dirty Also called Dirty ends. ends. Fabric defect, major. Self-descriptive. Dirty, oily looking spots on the warp yarns, or on packaged dyed yarn. defects Fabric defect, major. Fabric defect, major. Self-descriptive. Self-descriptive. Dirty,



877 Word



SOILING



SOISETTE



SOLAR SCREENING



SOLEIL



SOLID BRAID



Category



Short description



Description oily looking spots on the weft yarns, on packaged dyed yarn processes, In textiles, a process In textiles, a process by which a textile substrate operations by which a textile becomes more or less substrate becomes uniformly covered with/or more or less impregnated with soil. uniformly covered with/or impregnated with soil. fabrics Name given to a fine Name given to a fine cotton fabric made cotton fabric made from from mercerised mercerised yarns. Use yarns. confined mainly to good quality nightwear and negligées, due to its softness fabrics A woven fabric made A woven fabric made of of coated fibreglass coated fibreglass yarn. It yarn imparts a shielding or protection from light, heat, wind, and insects without excessive alteration or impairment of visual viewing, and that has a mesh in excess of 12 by 12 with a rib pattern in the warp direction formed by the weaving of two or more contiguous yarns with a minimum of space between such yarns followed by space equivalent to the width of one or more of the yarns in the rib fabrics Name for a very Name for a very highly highly finished wool finished wool fabric fabric woven in twill woven in twill broken-rib broken-rib effect. effect. The weave and finish give the fabric a shiny appearance. The term is also used to describe any shiny, lightreflecting fabrics in any fibres. accessories In rope, a braided In rope, a braided



878 Word



Category



SOLID COLOUR



fabrics



SOLID COLOUR, WORSTED



Short description construction



Description construction in which each strand alternately passes under and over one or more of the other strands while all strands are rotating around the axis with the same direction of rotation. A fabric or yarn A fabric or yarn entirely entirely of one colour of one colour tone. tone. See under Worsted. See under Worsted.



fibers, filaments, yarns SOLID WOVEN BELTING garments, See under Belting made-ups, assemblies SOLUTION-DYEING processes, See Mass-coloration. operations SOLVENT METHOD fibers, See under filaments, Manufacture of manyarns made fibres. SOLVENT-SOLUBLE general The most commonly SOIL found impurity in a dry cleaning solvent, e.g. oils and greases. SORPTION processes, The process of taking operations up or holding a material by adsorption, absorption, or both. SORTING processes, Process of operations separating material into different groups of comparable character and quality, determined by some standards SOUFFLÉ fabrics A French term used for some fabrics with raised or puffed designs, e.g., matelasse. SOURING processes, An acid treatment operations used in bleaching and laundering



See under Belting



See Mass-coloration. See under Manufacture of man-made fibres. The most commonly found impurity in a dry cleaning solvent, e.g. oils and greases. The process of taking up or holding a material by adsorption, absorption, or both. Process of separating material into different groups of comparable character and quality, determined by some standards; same as ‘classing’, ‘grading’. A French term used for some fabrics with raised or puffed designs, e.g., matelasse. An acid treatment used in bleaching and laundering to neutralise excess amount of alkali



879 Word SOUTACHE



SOYBEAN FIBRE



Category



Short description



accessories A narrow braid used as ornamentation on garments fibers, A protein-base, manfilaments, made fibre derived yarns from the soybean; resembles wool.



SPACE DYED YARN



fibers, filaments, yarns



Yarn dyed in single colour or multicolour spaces



SPAN LENGTH



fibers, filaments, yarns fibers, filaments, yarns



See under Fibre length.



SPANDEX



Description that might be present. A narrow braid used as ornamentation on garments A protein-base, manmade fibre derived from the soybean; resembles wool. Did not achieve commercial success due to its lack of tensile strength, and other weaknesses Yarn dyed in single colour or multicolour spaces along a given lineal length of yarn in either repeat type or random type patterns. See under Fibre length.



A manufactured fibre A manufactured fibre in which the fibre-forming in which the fibreforming substance is substance is a long chain synthetic polymer a long chain comprised of at least synthetic polymer comprised of at least 85% of a segmented polyurethane. 85% of a segmented These synthetic fibres, polyurethane. apart from their very high elastic recovery compared to any synthetic elastomeric filament, have higher tensile strength, higher modulus, and better resistance to oils, fats, perspiration and other organic materials. See also Elastic Fibre. Spandex may be used by itself (i.e. not covered with other yarns or fibres), covered with one or more yarns of other fibres (i.e. yarns twisted round spandex), or covered with a sheath of



880 Word



Category



Short description



SPANISH LACE



fabrics



all lace made in Spain.



SPANISH STITCH



seams, stitches



A type of embroidery composed of crossstitches in rows on the right side of the cloth and squares on the wrong side.



SPARTERIE



fabrics



SPECIAL FINISHES



SPECIAL TRISTIMULUS VALUES SPECIALITY YARNS



Stiff fabric, used in making hat bases as it can easily be shaped. fabrics A general term for fabric finishes imparting special properties such as water repellency, crease, stain and flame resistance. ³ See under Colour measurement. fibers, Special effects may filaments, be produced by using yarns metallic or tinsel yarns, which give a sheen or degree of ornamentation to the fabric.



Description other fibres (i.e. corespun yarns). The most common Spanish lace is made of silk in flat designs, usually floral, and held together with a mesh, but the term Spanish Lace also refers to all lace made in Spain. A type of embroidery composed of crossstitches in rows on the right side of the cloth and squares on the wrong side. The cross on the face of the goods may also be enclosed in a square. Stiff fabric, used in making hat bases as it can easily be shaped. A general term for fabric finishes imparting special properties such as water repellency, crease, stain and flame resistance. See also Functional finishes under Finish. See under Colour measurement. Special effects may be produced by using metallic or tinsel yarns, which give a sheen or degree of ornamentation to the fabric. Metallic threads may be made from gold, silver, copper, etc., and often consist of metal foil sandwiched between plastic film. Most fancy or novelty yarns are produced by twisting together two or more yarns. The two yarns may be deliv-ered



881 Word



Category



Short description



Description continuously to the twisting-spindle, with one of them being delivered at a greater speed than the other. The yarn that is over-fed will obviously be in excess and will therefore wrap around the other yarn. A similar yarn is produced by combining two slubbings or rovings of different colour or lustre. It is also possible to deliver one of the components intermittently and thus cause an accumulation of one yarn around another at certain positions along the length of the final product. These yarns will therefore have irregu-lar knops or nodes along their length. These knops can be spaced at regular or random intervals, and their size can be controlled. Tufts of fibres may be inserted at intervals between two yarns that are being twisted together. These slubs are usually produced by intermittently feeding rovings to the twisting spindle. A snarl yarn is formed by feeding a highly twisted yarn at an excess rate onto the core yarn. The twist causes the slack yarn to form snarls that stand out from the fancy yarn. Numerous variations of these technique are



882 Word



SPECIFIC AREA



SPECIFIC CLO



SPECIFIC FELT



SPECIFIC GRAVITY



SPECIFIC STRESS



SPECIFICATION



SPECIMEN SPECKINESS



Category



Short description



Description possible, including the use of yarns of contrasting colours wound around one another in such a way that different colours dominate at intervals. See Bicomponent Yarns, Fila-ment Blend yarns, Multilobal Filaments, Epitropic Fibres, Heterofil Fibres. fibers, In wool, the ratio of In wool, the ratio of the filaments, the fibre surface to fibre surface to fibre yarns fibre volume. volume. The specific thermal general The specific thermal resistance to clo units resistance to clo per unit thickness. See units per unit also Clo. thickness fabrics One of a number of One of a number of special purpose felt special purpose felt structures structures available for, but not limited to, a specific end-use application. general The ratio of the mass The ratio of the mass of of a material to the a material to the mass of mass of an equal an equal volume of water at 4° C. See also volume of water at 4° Density. C general The ratio of force to The ratio of force to the the linear density linear density expressed in N/tex or submultiple thereof (conventionally mN/tex). general A precise statement A precise statement of a set of requirements to be of a set of satisfied by a material, requirements to be product, system, or satisfied by a material, product, service that indicates the procedures for system, or service determining whether each of the requirements is satisfied. general A specific portion of a A specific portion of a material. material. general In textile printing, the In textile printing, the



883 Word



Category



SPECKS



defects



SPECKY FABRIC



defects



SPECTROPHOTOMETER apparatus, equipage, tools SPECTROPHOTOMETRY processes, operations



SPECULAR GLOSS



general



Short description quality or state of containing specks.



Description quality or state of containing specks. If intended it can be a required effect. If occurred unintended it is a defect. Fabric defect. Fabric defect. 1. A small particle, such as an agglomerate in a liquid dispersion, or a very small spot of dark colour on a dyed substrate. 2. Small pieces of undyed vegetable matter, which can be removed by carbonising or can be covered by dyeing or inking. (Compare Trash.) Fabric defect. Dyed Fabric defect. Dyed fabric which shows fabric which shows small specks of undyed small specks of undyed vegetable vegetable matter on the matter on the face. face. The specks may be removed by carbonising or be covered up by speck dyeing. Same as Specky cloth. An instrument for An instrument for measuring shade measuring shade and and intensity of intensity of colour. colour. A method of measuring A method of reflection factors of a measuring reflection factors of a colour, by colour, by comparing comparing various various wavelengths and the intensity to a wavelengths and the standard. The intensity to a measurements can be standard. plotted on a chart. The chart is ruled, one direction for wavelengths (the spectrum) and the other direction for reflection (the intensity). Same as Gloss. Same as Gloss. The relative luminous



884 Word



Category



Short description



SPIDER SILK



fibers, filaments, yarns



Silk filaments spun by spiders.



SPIDER STITCH



seams, stitches



SPIDER WEAVE



fabrics



SPIKING



processes, operations



SPIN DRY



processes, operations



Description fractional reflectance of a specimen in the specular direction. Silk filaments spun by spiders. Filaments are similar in appearance to ordinary silk; they are an orange-yellow in colour. Spider silk has generally proved impractical for textile use, but is employed in the optical and instrument industry. They are fine, strong and uniform and are particularly useful due to their ability to withstand oxidation and changes in temperature and humidity. One of the best types is obtained from the golden garden spider ‘Miranda aurentia’ A stitch in lace or netting in which the threads are arranged to resemble a spider web.



A stitch in lace or netting in which the threads are arranged to resemble a spider web. A class of weave that A class of weave that produces a net-like or produces a net-like or distorted thread distorted thread effect on the face of fabric by effect on the face of floating and deflecting fabric either the ends or picks. The use of spikes fixed The use of spikes fixed to one edge of to one edge of a hinged table to facilitate the a hinged table to even laying-up of fine facilitate the even fabrics. The tabletop is laying-up of fine tilted vertically for fabrics. hanging the fabric and back to the horizontal for cutting. A process in A process in laundering laundering whereby whereby water is water is extracted by extracted by centrifugal centrifugal force from force from the laundered the laundered items. items. In this state the



885 Word



Category



Short description



SPIN-DRAWING



processes, operations



A process for spinning partially or highly oriented filaments



SPIN-STRETCH RATIO



processes, operations



Also called Drawdown.



SPINDLE



apparatus, In the spinning equipage, frame, the slender tools rod held in a vertical position for twisting and holding the spun yarn dur-ing spinning



SPINNERET



apparatus, equipage, tools



A nozzle with holes or slits in it,



SPINNERS’ DOUBLE



fibers, filaments, yarns



Also called Married yarn and Double ends



Description articles may be termed ‘damp dry’. Tumble or line drying follows. A process for spinning partially or highly oriented filaments in which most of the orientation is introduced between the first forwarding device and the take-up, i.e. spinning and drawing are integrated sequential stages. See also Drawspinning Also called Draw-down. In man-made filament extrusion, the ratio of take-up or haul-off speed to the average speed of the spinning fluid at the exit from the hole of spinneret. 1. In the spinning frame, the slender rod held in a vertical position for twisting and holding the spun yarn dur-ing spinning. 2. A unit on a winding machine. 3. A post for mounting packages. 4. A part of a Jacquard loom. A nozzle with holes or slits in it, through which the fibre-forming substance is extruded in the manufacture of manmade fibres. Also called Married yarn and Double ends. Two ends inadvertently running onto one spindle during spinning operations. This is usually caused by the



886 Word



Category



SPINNERS’ WASTE



fibers, filaments, yarns



SPINNING



Short description



Broken and tangled threads and lengths of yarn left on bobbins and spinning machinery processes, The word ‘Spinning’ operations is used to cover four distinctly different processes



Description breakage of one end followed by its subsequent entanglement with an adjacent end after which the two continue to run in ‘married’ form. Broken and tangled threads and lengths of yarn left on bobbins and spinning machinery in the manufacture of yarn. The word ‘Spinning’ is used to cover four distinctly different processes which should not be confused. 1. General: The process or processes used in the production of single yarns. 2. Yarn from staple fibre: The formation of yarn from sliver or roving by drafting and twisting. 3. Filament yarn or tow: The formation of filaments by extrusion of fibre-forming substance, either in molten form, in solution, or in a form suitable for regeneration. 4. Yarn from filament tow: The formation of yarn from tow by cutting or breaking, drafting and twisting in a single operation. Often called Direct spinning. See also Cap spinning, Continuous Yarn felting, Double roving spinning, Flyer spinning, Friction spinning, Hollow-spindle spinning, Jet spinning, Mule spinning, Open-end spinning, Ring spinning, Rotor spinning, Self-twist spinning, Twistless



887 Word



Category



Short description



Description spinning, Wrap spinning, and Yarn manufacture by spinning. SPINNING LIMIT fibers, The finest yarn The finest yarn number filaments, number that can be that can be spun yarns spun satisfactorily satisfactorily from a specified lot of fibre under specified conditions. SPINNING MILL general A factory producing A factory producing yarn. yarn. SPINNING processes, See under Yarn See under Yarn PREPARATORY STAGES operations manufacture by manufacture by spinning. spinning. The ease with which SPINNING QUALITY fibers, The ease with which fibres lend themselves to filaments, fibres lend yarn-manufacturing yarns themselves to yarnprocesses. See also manufacturing Fibre cohesion. processes. Chemical solution SPINNING SOLUTION fibers, Chemical solution prepared for extrusion filaments, prepared for through a spinneret to yarns extrusion through a produce synthetic spinneret filaments. SPINNING, DIRECT processes, See Direct spinning See Direct spinning operations SPIRAL YARN fibers, Also called Eccentric Also called Eccentric filaments, yarn. yarn. Novelty yarn with a yarns pronounced spiral effect obtained by twisting together two yarns of different counts and/or twist, tension, direction of twist or a single and a doubled yarn. The fine yarn is usually given a hard twist and the heavy yarn a slack twist; in spinning, the heavier yarn is wound spirally around the fine yarn. Different coloured yarns may be used for considerably varied effects. SPIRALITY defects Fabric defect in Fabric defect in knitted knitted fabric. fabric. A distortion of a



888 Word



SPLASH YARN



SPLICE SPLICING



SPLIT



SPLIT END SPLIT ENDS SPLIT FIBRE



SPLIT FILAMENTS SPLIT STITCH SPLIT STITCHES



SPLIT YARN



Category



Short description



Description knitted fabric whereby the wales and courses align at an angle other than 90°. This condition is usually caused by residual torque in the component yarns. An elongated nub that fibers, An elongated nub filaments, that has been tightly has been tightly twisted around a base yarn yarns twisted around a base yarn processes, See Corkscrew yarn. See Corkscrew yarn. operations processes, Joining together the Joining together the ends operations ends of two yarns of two yarns without without tying tying; may be done by hand, or machine. apparatus, See Dent. See Dent. equipage, tools defects See Dent. See Dent. defects See Broken See Broken filaments. filaments. fibers, See under Fibrillating See under Fibrillating filaments, film. film. yarns defects See Broken See Broken filaments. filaments. defects See Broken See Broken filaments. filaments. defects Fabric defect in Fabric defect in knitted knitted fabric. fabric. A stitch in which one part of the yarn is knit and the other part is dropped. defects A yarn which A yarn which appears in appears in the fabric the fabric as a thin yarn. as a thin yarn. This defect is often caused by abrasion or excessive tension during winding or weaving which breaks a part of the yarn (e.g. a filament of a continuous filament yarn or a ply of a two-fold yarn) that is subsequently held back



889 Word



Category



Short description



SPLITFUL



fabrics



SPLITTING RESISTANCE



fabrics



The number of ends in a reed. Of felt. The force required to overcome the interfacial strength of a material



SPOKESTITCHING



seams, stitches



A decoration achieved by drawing out parallel threads at the inner edge of a hem



SPONGE WEAVE



fabrics



Any one of a variety of weave arrangements that groups ends and picks together in order to form a cellular structure



SPONGING



processes, operations



Description during weaving. The number of ends in a reed. Of felt. The force required to overcome the interfacial strength of a material and specifically to separate a felt into two layers (of approximately equal thickness). A decoration achieved by drawing out parallel threads at the inner edge of a hem and stitching along both sides of the ladder of parallel threads, rather than along the outer edge, as in hemstitching. Any one of a variety of weave arrangements that groups ends and picks together in order to form a cellular structure and to create a soft spongy effect in the fabric, e.g. spot weaves, diamond effects, honeycombs and sateenbased structures with lifts added, as illustrated below A steam treatment given to woollens and worsteds for a final shrinkage control and to improve handle and finish. See Progressive curing.



A steam treatment given to woollens and worsteds for a final shrinkage control SPONTANEOUS CURING processes, See Progressive operations curing. SPOOL apparatus, IN SEWING 1. IN SEWING equipage, MACHINE. A small MACHINE. A small tube, tools tube, with or without with or without flanges, flanges on to which is wound the under-thread of a lockstitch machine. The spool is held in the spool case underneath the



890 Word



Category



Short description



SPORT SHIRT



garments, made-ups, assemblies



FOR BOYS. A shirt made in numerical sizes, designed for informal wear



SPORTS DENIM



fabrics



A lightweight denim with a soft finish made in a variety of colours and patterns



SPOT



defects



Fabric defect.



SPOT AND CROSS PAPER



garments, made-ups, assemblies



In garment manufacturing.



SPOT CLEAN



processes, operations processes, operations fabrics



See Stain removal.



Description throat plate. 2. IN THREAD. A cardboard or plastic tube as a base on which to wind thread. Also called ‘cop’. 1. FOR BOYS. A shirt made in numerical sizes, designed for informal wear and may be worn with or without a jacket. 2. FOR MEN. A shirt designed for informal wear and made with body sizes such as small, medium, or large; they may be worn with or without a jacket. A lightweight denim with a soft finish made in a variety of colours and patterns. Used for women’s playclothes, slacks, beach robes, men’s sportswear. Sometimes also called Faded denim Fabric defect. A small discoloured area on, or in, a fabric. In garment manufacturing. A paper printed with a design of alternate spots and crosses, used for making master markers. See Stain removal.



See Stain removal.



See Stain removal.



SPOT REMOVAL SPOT RESISTANT



SPOT STITCH



seams, stitches



Fabric, which has Fabric, which has been been treated to resist treated to resist stains. stains. An ornamental An ornamental decoration decoration achieved by crocheting regularly spaced raised dots or



891 Word



Category



SPOTTED COTTON



fibers, filaments, yarns



SPOTTING



SPRAY BONDING



Short description



Cotton that has been changed in colour to a brown, écru, or yellow cast by unfavourable weather, wet bolls, stems, leaves, rainstorms. processes, In cleaning, the operations application of solvent or solution to a material prior to or after commercial scouring, laundering, or drycleaning



processes, A method of making operations nonwoven fabrics in which droplets of adhesive are sprayed on to the fibre web or batt.



SPRAY DYEING



processes, operations



Application of colorant to a substrate using a spray gun In garment manufacturing, the method of outlining patterns prior to cutting by spraying over the lay



SPRAY MARKING



processes, operations



SPRAY PRINTING



processes, Application of dye to operations fabric with a compressed air spray gun for shade effects.



Description figures. Cotton that has been changed in colour to a brown, écru, or yellow cast by unfavourable weather, wet bolls, stems, leaves, rainstorms. Spots on cotton affect the grading. In cleaning, the application of solvent or solution to a material prior to or after commercial scouring, laundering, or drycleaning to remove or enhance removal of soil or stains in a local area. See also Pre-spotting. A method of making nonwoven fabrics in which droplets of adhesive are sprayed on to the fibre web or batt. See also Adhesive bonded non-woven fabric. Application of colorant to a substrate using a spray gun with the object of producing ombré effects. In garment manufacturing, the method of outlining patterns prior to cutting by spraying over the lay, leaving the pattern area as a silhouette which can then be cut. Application of dye to fabric with a compressed air spray gun for shade effects. Also selectively exposed areas of fabric may be printed with a type of spray gun; different stencil is employed for



892 Word SPREAD LOOP



SPREAD STITCHES SPREADER



SPREADING SPREADING DEFECTS IN GARMENT SPRING LAY ROPE SPRING NEEDLE



SPUN POLYESTER



SPUN RAYON



SPUN SILK



Category



Short description



Description each colour. processes, In weft knitting, a In weft knitting, a needle operations needle loop loop expanded over two expanded over two or more wales. Applied or more wales. to stockings, the terms spread loop and Knotted stitch refer to expansion over two wales and the stockings are described as ‘mesh’ or (technically) ‘half-point transfer’. The stitch has ladderresistant properties. defects See Pinhole. See Pinhole. 1. IN LAYING UP. A apparatus, IN LAYING UP. A device for manipulating equipage, device for tools manipulating fabric to fabric to form the layers form the layers of a of a lay. It may vary from primitive hand-moved lay. types to sophisticated fully automatic machines. 2. IN SOME TYPES OF SEWING MACHINE, a part located under the bed which assists loop formation. processes, See Laying up See Laying up operations defects See under Garment See under Garment defects, classified. defects, classified. accessories See under Rope. See under Rope. apparatus, See under Needle. See under Needle. equipage, tools fabrics Lightweight woven or Lightweight woven or knitted fabrics that knitted fabrics that have a soft, warm feel. have a soft, warm Comfortable for sports feel. and casual clothes, dresses, nightwear. Yarn or fabric made Yarn or fabric made from fibers, filaments, from short lengths of short lengths of rayon filaments which have rayon filaments yarns, been twisted together in which have been fabrics a manner similar to the twisted together spinning of cotton. fibers, This is a type of silk This is a type of silk yarn,



893 Word



SPUN VISCOSE



SPUN YARN



Category filaments, yarns, fabrics



Short description Description yarn, although the although the fabric itself fabric itself may be may be labelled this way. labelled this way. Silk yarn consisting of short filaments obtained from silk wastes spun in similar manner to worsted yarn. The yarn is made by breaking up short fibres of waste silk and spinning them together, and this yarn is then woven into fabric. Although the fabric should be cheaper than silk, as it is made from waste yarn, the processing is lengthy and expensive. The fabric produced may be of any weight. fibers, This is really the This is really the name of filaments, name of a yarn, but a yarn, but fabrics also yarns, fabrics also carry this carry this title. They are fabrics title. in plain weave and may be plain or printed. These fabrics were once considered poor in quality and performance but the fabric finishing techniques have improved so much that they are now good fashion fabrics. They are soft and drape well and are fairly warm, but they crease in wear and are highly inflammable. Used for dresses, blouses, shirts, nightwear and children’s clothes. fibers, A yarn made from A yarn made from staple fibres as distinguished filaments, staple fibres as from the continuous yarns distinguished from filament yarn. A the continuous continuous strand of filament yarn fibres that consists of fibres of regular or irregular length, held together by some binding



894 Word



Category



Short description



Description mechanism, usually bound together by twist SPUN-BONDED fabrics Non-woven materials Non-woven materials in in the form of sheets, the form of sheets, tapes tapes and laminates and laminates consisting of fine webs of randomly arranged continuous filaments. SPUN-DYEING processes, See MassSee Mass-colouration. operations colouration. SPUNLACED FABRIC fabrics See Hydroentangled See Hydroentangled fabric. fabric. SPYNDLE NUMBER fibers, A direct yarnA direct yarn-numbering filaments, numbering system system for jute rove and yarns for jute rove and jute jute yarns in which the yarns number of pounds per spyndle, or 14,400 yards (13,167 metre) length, is expressed as pounds per spyndle. See also Direct yarn numbering system. SQUARE fabrics A fabric in which the A fabric in which the CONSTRUCTION same yarn number same yarn number and and the same yarn the same yarn density density are used in are used in both both directions. directions. SQUARE DESIGN PAPER accessories In weaving, the paper In weaving, the paper used for representing used for representing the interlacing of warp and the interlacing of weft in a woven fabric. warp and weft in a woven fabric. SQUARE REPEAT processes, The exact The exact reproduction operations reproduction of any of any unit print design, unit print design set at a given distance exactly horizontal and vertical to the original. Also called Side to side. SQUARE WEAVE fabrics Weave in which the Weave in which the number of risers is number of risers is equal equal to the number to the number of sinkers of sinkers in the in the repeat. repeat. The device (usually in SQUEEGEE apparatus, The device (usually the form of a blade) used equipage, in the form of a tools blade) used to press to press the printpaste, or alternatively the light the printpaste sensitive emulsion,



895 Word



Category



Short description



ST. GALL LACE



fabrics



Machine-made imitation of Venetian Lace



STABILITY TO THERMAL OXIDATION



fabrics



That property of a fabric which resists breaking under a specified tensile strain



STABILIZATION



fabrics



STABILIZED YARN



STABLE FABRIC



STAGE TWISTING STAIN



A term usually referring to fabrics in which the dimensions have been set by a suitable preshrinking operation fibers, Yarn which has been filaments, subjected to a yarns heating and cooling or other setting treatment,



fabrics



Description through the mesh of the screen. See also Doctor. Machine-made imitation of Venetian Lace, copying the texture and designs. That property of a fabric which resists breaking under a specified tensile strain, when exposed to a current of air at an elevated temperature. A term usually referring to fabrics in which the dimensions have been set by a suitable preshrinking operation, or by chemical finishing. Yarn which has been subjected to a heating and cooling or other setting treatment, usually in order to reduce its tendency to shrink, contract, twist, snarl, or stretch. Also called Set yarn. A textile fabric, the dimensions of which do not change significantly with multiple passes through measuring devices. Compare Fabric stability. See Two-stage twisting



A textile fabric, the dimensions of which do not change significantly with multiple passes through measuring devices processes, See Two-stage operations twisting defects Fabric defect. An Fabric defect. An area of discoloration that area of discoloration penetrates the fabric that penetrates the surface, caused by a fabric surface, local deposit of soil or discoloration on a substrate that exhibits some degree of resistance to removal, as by laundering or drycleaning.



896 Word STAIN REMOVAL



Category Short description processes, A cleaning procedure operations for localised areas on textiles with cleaning agents and mechanical action specific to the removal of the foreign substances present.



Description A cleaning procedure for localised areas on textiles with cleaning agents and mechanical action specific to the removal of the foreign substances present. Stains should be treated as soon as possible; the longer a stain remains on an item, the harder it will be to re-move. Knowledge of fibre content help to determine appropriate solvents, e.g. attempting to remove a nail pol-ish stain on an acetate fabric with nail polish remover that contains acetone would destroy the fabric. Evalua-tion of the fabric structure also is important, e.g. rubbing hard on a stain on a pile fabric will flatten the pile, rubbing may abrade the surface of a satin weave fabric. Before any stain remover is used, the textile should be tested to determine whether it is colourfast to the stain remover or whether it may have a finish that the stain remover will harm. ADHESIVE TAPE, CHEWING GUM, RUBBER CEMENT: Apply ice or cold water to harden surface; scrape with a dull knife. Saturate with cleaning liquid. Rinse; then launder. BABY FORMULA: Soak in a product containing enzymes for at least 30 minutes (several hours



897 Word



Category



Short description



Description for aged stains). Launder. BEVERAGES (COFFEE, TEA, SOFT DRINKS, WINE, ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES): Sponge or soak stain in cool water. Then pretreat with prewash stain remover, liquid laundry detergent, liquid detergent booster, or paste of granu-lar laundry product and water. Launder using a chlorine bleach, if safe for fabric, or an oxygen bleach. Older stains may respond to soaking in a product containing enzymes, then laundering. BLOOD: If stain is fresh, soak in cold water. For dried stains, soak in warm water with a product containing enzymes. Launder. If stain remains, rewash using a bleach safe for fabric. BROWN OR YELLOW COLOURATIOIN FROM IRON, RUST, MANGANESE: Use a rust remover recommended for fabrics; launder. Do not use a chlorine bleach to remove rust stains because it may intensify discoloration. For a rusty water problem, use a nonprecipitating water softener in both wash and rinse water. For severe problems, install an iron filter in the system. CANDLE WAX: Scrape off surface wax with a



898 Word



Category



Short description



Description dull knife. Place stain between clean paper towels and press with a warm iron. Replace paper towels frequently to absorb more wax and to avoid transferring stains. Place stain face down on clean paper towels. Sponge remaining stain with cleaning fluid; blot with paper towels. Let dry. Launder. If any colour remains, rewash using a chlorine bleach, if safe for fabric, or an oxygen bleach. CHOCOLATE: Prewash with a product containing enzymes in warm water or treat with a prewash stain remover. Launder. If stain remains, rewash using a bleach safe for fabric. COLLAR, CUFF SOIL: Pretreat with prewash stain remover, liquid laundry detergent, or paste of granular detergent and water. Launder. COSMETICS: Pretreat with prewash stain remover, liquid laundry detergent, paste of granular detergent, or laun-dry additive and water or rub with bar soap. Launder. CRAYON: For a few spots, treat same as candle wax. For a whole load of clothes, wash with hot water using a laundry soap and 1 cup baking soda. If colour remains, launder using a chlorine bleach, if safe



899 Word



Category



Short description



Description for fabric. Oth-erwise, soak in a product containing enzymes or an oxygen bleach using hottest water safe for fabric, then launder. DAIRY PRODUCTS (MILK, CREAM, ICE CREAM, YOGURT, SOUR CREAM, CREAM SOUPS): Soak in a product con-taining enzymes for at least 30 minutes (several hours for aged stains). Launder. DEODORANTS, ANTIPERSPIRANTS: Pretreat with liquid laundry detergent. Launder. For heavy stains, pretreat with prewash stain remover. Allow to stand 5 to 10 minutes. Launder using an oxygen bleach. DYE TRANSFER: Attempt restoration of white fabrics that have picked up colour from other fabrics by using a packaged colour remover, following label directions. Launder. If dye remains, launder again using a chlorine bleach, if safe for fabric. For coloured fabrics and whites that cannot be chlorine bleached, soak in oxygen bleach. Launder. This type of stain can be prevented if proper sorting and laundering procedures are followed. EGG: Soak in a product containing enzymes for at least 30 minutes



900 Word



Category



Short description



Description (several hours for aged stains). Launder. FABRIC SOFTENER: Dampen the stain and rub with bar soap. Rinse out, then launder. FRUIT, JUICES: Wash with bleach safe for fabric. GRASS: Soak in product containing enzymes. If stain persists, launder using a chlorine bleach, if safe for fabric, or an oxygen bleach. GREASE, OIL (CAR GREASE, BUTTER, ANIMAL FATS, SALAD DRESSINGS, COOKING OILS, MOTOR OILS): Pretreat with prewash stain remover, liquid laundry detergent, or liquid laundry detergent booster. For heavy stains, place stain face down on clean paper towels. Apply cleaning fluid to back of stain. Replace paper towels under stain frequently. Let dry, rinse. Launder using hottest water safe for fabric. INK: Some inks in each of the following categories - ballpoint, felt-tip and liquid - may be impossible to remove. Laundering may set some types of ink. Try a pretreatment method using a prewash stain remover, denatured alcohol or cleaning fluid. Use one of the following methods with denatured alcohol or cleaning fluid.



901 Word



Category



Short description



Description First, sponge the area around the stain with the stain remover before applying it directly on the stain. Place stain face down on clean paper tow-els. Apply denatured alcohol or cleaning fluid to back of stain. Replace paper towels under the stain frequently. Rinse thoroughly. Launder. Another method is to place the stain over the mouth of a jar or glass and hold the fabric in a taut position. Drip the stain remover through the spot so that the ink will drop into the container as it is being removed. Rinse thoroughly. Launder. MILDEW: For newly formed mildew stains, a strong soap solution followed by exposure to air. Stained items are laundered using a chlorine bleach, if safe for fabric, and exposed to air. Repeated if necessary. Or soaked in oxygen bleach and hot water; then laundered. Very badly mildewed fabrics may be damaged beyond repair. MUD: When dry, brush off as much as possible. Pretreat with a paste of granular detergent and water, liquid laundry detergent or a liquid detergent booster. Launder. For heavy stains, pretreat or presoak with a laundry



902 Word



Category



Short description



Description detergent or a product containing enzymes. Launder. MUSTARD: Pretreat with prewash stain remover. Launder using chlorine bleach, if safe for fabric. NAIL POLISH: May be possible to remove. Try nail polish remover but do not use on acetate or triacetate fabrics. Place stain face down on clean paper towels. Apply nail polish remover to back of stain. Replace paper towels under stain frequently. Repeat until stain disappears, if it does. Rinse and launder. PAINT, WATER-BASED: Rinse fabric in warm water while stains are still wet, then launder. Once paint is dry, it cannot be removed. PAINT, OIL-BASED AND VARNISH: Use the same solvent the label on the can advises for a thinner. If label is not available, use turpentine. Rinse. Pretreat with prewash stain remover, bar soap or laundry detergent. Rinse and launder. PERFUME: Pretreat with prewash stain remover or liquid laundry detergent. Launder. PERSPIRATION: Use a prewash stain remover or rub with bar soap. If perspiration has changed the colour of the fabric, apply ammonia to fresh stains, white vinegar to old stains and rinse. Launder using hottest



903 Word



Category



Short description



Description water safe for fabric. Stubborn stains may respond to washing in a product containing enzymes or oxygen bleach in hottest water safe for fabric. PINE RESIN: Sponge cleaning fluid into the stain; let dry. Mix liquid laundry detergent and ammonia; soak stain in the solution. Launder using liquid laundry detergent. SCORCH: Badly scorched fabrics may be damaged beyond repair. Launder stained items using a chlorine bleach, if safe for fabric. Or soak in oxygen bleach and hot water; then launder. SHOE POLISH, LIQUID: Pretreat with a paste of granular detergent and water; launder. SHOE POLISH, PASTE: Scrape residue from fabric with a dull knife. Pretreat with a prewash stain remover or cleaning fluid. Rinse. Rub detergent into dampened area. Launder using a chlorine bleach, if safe for fabric, or an oxygen bleach. TAR: Scrape residue from fabric. Place stain face down on paper towels. Sponge with cleaning fluid. Replace paper towels frequently to absorb more tar and to avoid transferring stains. Launder in hottest water safe for fabric. TOBACCO: Dampen



904 Word



Category



Short description



STAINED COTTON



fibers, filaments, yarns



Discoloured cotton fibres.



STAND



STANDARD ATMOSPHERE FOR PRECONDITIONING



garments, That part of a collar, made-ups, which joins the neck assemblies, edge of the garment apparatus, equipage, tools general



In the testing of textiles, this is, an atmosphere having a relative humidity of 5 to 25 %



Description stain and rub with bar soap. Rinse. Soak in a product containing enzymes; then launder. If stain remains, launder again using chlorine bleach, if safe for fabric. TYPEWRITER CORRECTION FLUID: Let stain dry thoroughly. Gently brush excess off with a clothes brush. Dry clean. URINE, VOMIT, MUCOUS, FECES OR STOOL: Soak in a product containing enzymes. Launder using chlorine bleach, if safe for fabric, or use oxygen bleach. Discoloured cotton fibres. Cotton almost entirely discoloured to a slightly mottled tan colour is called yellow stained cotton, and cotton discoloured by exposure to frost and other causes until it is grey or, in severe cases, a light slate colour is called ‘grey cotton’ or ‘blue stained cotton’ 1. That part of a collar, which joins the neck edge of the garment and terminates at the crease of the collar where the fall commences. 2. See Bust. In the testing of textiles, this is, an atmosphere having a relative humidity of 5 to 25 %, ± 2 % tolerance for the selected relative humidity, and a



905 Word



Category



Short description



STANDARD ATMOSPHERE FOR TESTING



general



An atmosphere for testing in which the conditions for relative humidity and temperature are specified and controlled.



STANDARD CONDITION



general



STANDARD DEPTH SCALE



STANDARD HAIRWEIGHT



STANDARD HWM FIBRES STANDARD MOISTURE REGAIN



Description temperature of not over 50° C (122° F), with ± 1° C (± 2° F) tolerance for the selected temperature and used to partially dry the material before further treatment or conditioning. An atmosphere for testing in which the conditions for relative humidity and temperature are specified and controlled. In the testing of textiles, this is, an atmosphere in which the air is maintained at a relative humidity of 65 ± 2 % and at a temperature of 21 ± 1° C (70 ± 2° F). The state of being in moisture equilibrium with the standard atmosphere for testing. See Moisture equilibrium for testing. In colour measurement, a series of dyed samples of different hue and chroma that have been accepted to have the same depth.



The state of being in moisture equilibrium with the standard atmosphere for testing apparatus, In colour equipage, measurement, a tools series of dyed samples of different hue and chroma that have been accepted to have the same depth. fibers, The hairweight of The hairweight of cotton filaments, cotton fibre divided fibre divided by its yarns by its maturity ratio. maturity ratio. It is usually denoted by HS. fibers, See under HWM See under HWM modal filaments, modal fibre. fibre. yarns The amount of moisture general The amount of contained by a textile moisture contained material when by a textile material when conditioned or conditioned or brought into equilibrium in brought into standard atmosphere. equilibrium in The equilibrium is to be standard



906 Word



Category



Short description atmosphere.



STANDARD PERFORMANCE SPECIFICATIONS FOR FABRICS



fabrics



Specifications that cover the evaluation of specific performance characteristics of importance in fabrics, meant for various end uses



STAPLE



fibers, filaments, yarns



The name given to textile fibres of limited length. Fibres of finite length, as opposed to a continuous filament.



Description approached from a state of lower region. See Moisture regain. Specifications that cover the evaluation of specific performance characteristics of importance in fabrics, meant for various end uses. The specifications are used by mutual agreement between the purchaser and the supplier to establish purchas-ing specification requirements. However, the specifications may not purport to address all of the safety prob-lems, if any, associated with its use. The user of such specifications, may establish appropriate safety and health practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to its use. See also Fabric performance characteristics. The name given to textile fibres of limited length. Fibres of finite length, as opposed to a continuous filament. Natural fibres or cut lengths from filaments. To make a continuous length of yarn with staple fibres, they have to be twisted together. Staple fibres can range from about 10 mm to many centimetres in length, but in no case do they ever become long enough to be classed as filament.



907 Word



Category



STAPLE CRIMP



fibers, filaments, yarns



STAPLE DENIER



fibers, filaments, yarns fibers, filaments, yarns



STAPLE FIBRE



STAPLE GLASS YARN



fibers, filaments, yarns



STAPLE LENGTH



fibers, filaments, yarns fibers,



STAPLE YARN



Short description



Description However, man-made filaments can be converted into staple fibres by deliberately cutting them into short lengths. An example of a natural staple fibre is cotton. If a yarn from an ordinary cotton fabric is untwisted, it will be seen to break down into fine fibres of about two or three centimetres long. In wool, (a) the In wool, (a) the natural natural waves in a waves in a grease lock grease lock ( (b) one complete wave or undulation of a crimped lock. Diameter fineness of Diameter fineness of staple rayon. staple rayon. Man-made fibres of Man-made fibres of prepre-determined short determined short lengths. lengths. The fibres, which may or may not be crimped, are usually prepared by cutting or breaking filaments of the material into lengths suitable for the processing system in question. These normally range from 5 mm to 500 mm and have a linear density of 0.5 - 50 decitex, although special products are made outside these ranges. Yarn, made from Yarn, made from filaments that are filaments that are nominally 8 to 15 in. nominally 8 to 15 in. (200 to 380 mm) in length. (200 to 380 mm) in length. See under Fibre See under Fibre length length Yarn, spun from



Yarn, spun from staple or



908 Word



STAPLED SEAM



STAR STEAMER



STARCH LUMP STARCHLESS FINISH



STARFISH PROJECT



START-UP MARK



Category Short description Description filaments, staple or short fibres. short fibres. yarns A seam formed by seams, A seam formed by shaped metal devices stitches shaped metal such as U-shaped devices such as Ustaples. A stapled seam shaped staples. may be used in upholstering when fabrics are attached to a frame. (Compare Glued seam, Sewn seam, Thermally-bonded seam.) apparatus, A steamer in which A steamer in which the printed cloth is wound equipage, the printed cloth is round a star-shaped tools wound round a starframe by means of pins. shaped frame by This frame is then means of pins. lowered into a chamber, the lid tightened down and steam injected through perforated pipes in the base. defects See Hard size. See Hard size. processes, A durable finish A durable finish which operations which lasts through lasts through several several washings washings, and obviates the use of starch for body and crispness. processes, It is the code-name It is the code-name given by ‘The International operations given by ‘The International Institute Institute for Cotton’ in for Cotton’ in 1984, to 1984, to one of their extensive research one of their extensive program into the research program shrinkage of knitted into the shrinkage of knitted cotton fabrics cotton fabrics that has led to a practical system for reliably predicting the shrinkage and dimensional properties of finished knitted cotton fabrics. defects Fabric defect. Also Fabric defect. Also called called Stop mark, Stop mark, Stopping line. Stopping line. 1. IN WOVEN FABRIC. A crosswise streak, caused by starting up the



909 Word



Category



Short description



Description loom that had been idle for a long period of time. Sometimes the cloth may show bright or dim mark lines in the weft direction, caused by the weaver not starting the loom at the correct warp tension. 1. IN KNITTED FABRIC. A band of several courses having stitch characteristics different from those in the normal fabric. It is usually caused by a change in yarn tension resulting from the deceleration and standing time when the machine stops. STATEMENT processes, In fully fashioned In fully fashioned knitting. A written program operations knitting. A written describing the events program describing the events required required to knit a portion of a fully-fashioned to knit a portion of a garment sequentially. fully-fashioned garment sequentially. Static electricity is STATIC ELECTRICITY IN fabrics Static electricity is created when two TEXTILES created when two dissimilar substances dissimilar substances are are rubbed together rubbed together and then separated, causing and then separated, negatively charged electrons to be removed from one surface and attracted to the other. The surface from which the electrons are removed becomes positively charged and the surface to which they are attached becomes negatively charged. In the list below, textile fibres are arranged in such an order that any one of them rubbed against another below it on the list will become positively charged, and if



910 Word



Category



Short description



STATIC FRICTION



general



Friction developed between two touching bodies



Description rubbed against another above it, will become negatively charged. The further apart they are on the list, the greater the charge generated. Human and animal skin occupies a posi-tion near to cotton and viscose rayon. A person wearing an acrylic or PVC garment could produce a fairly strong charge, which will show, sparks when the fabric is removed from the skin. Equally two fabrics worn to-gether e.g. an acrylic sweater over a wool or nylon dress when separated could produce the same result. Natural fibres generate less electrostatic charge than synthetics because they absorb moisture, which is a con-ductor. Synthetic fibres, being non-absorbent, tend to store static charges, and there are problems in obtaining a really durable anti-stat process for them, as they are normally hydrophobic the aim of the antistat finish is to make them hydrophilic, to provide some degree of moisture absorption, which helps to conduct away the static charge. See also Anti-static Finish Friction developed between two touching bodies at the time one body starts to move relative to another.



911 Word



STATION



STAY BINDING STAY TAPE



STEAM CLEANING



STEAM HEAT-SETTING STEAMER



STEAMING



Category



apparatus, Fixing position for equipage, each printing unit in a tools printing machine of any type. fabrics See under Binding. garments, A narrow strip of firm, made-ups, plain woven, nonassemblies stretch fabric



processes, A term often used in operations place of hot water extraction. processes, operations apparatus, equipage, tools processes, operations



STEEL CORD



garments, made-ups, assemblies



STEEL CORD WRAP



garments, made-ups, assemblies fibers, filaments, yarns garments, made-ups,



STEEL FILAMENT



STEEL STRAND



Short description



Description (Compare Kinetic Friction.) Fixing position for each printing unit in a printing machine of any type. Also known as Nip. See under Binding. A narrow strip of firm, plain woven, non-stretch fabric used for strengthening or controlling various parts of a garment A term often used in place of hot water extraction. See Hot water extraction. See under Heat-setting.



See under Heatsetting. A machine used in A machine used in the the process of process of steaming steaming 1. In textile dyeing or In textile dyeing or printing, the treatment printing, the with moist steam to treatment with moist promote penetration steam to promote penetration and/or and/or fixation of the dye. The steam may be fixation of the dye. neutral, acid, or air-free depending on the dye class. 2. Treating woollens with steam for controlled shrinkage. A formed structure A formed structure made made by twisting by twisting together two together two or more or more steel filaments steel filaments or or steel strands steel strands A filament wound A filament wound helically around a helically around a steel steel cord. cord. The individual The individual element in element in a steel a steel strand or cord. strand or cord. A group of steel A group of steel filaments combined filaments combined



912 Word



Category assemblies



STEEP TWILL



fabrics



STENCIL PRINT



processes, operations



STENTER



apparatus, equipage, tools



STENTER MARK STENTERING



defects processes, operations



Short description Description together to form a together to form a unit unit product. product. A twill weave in which A twill weave in which the angle of the angle of the twill line is more than 45°. the twill line is more than 45°. A type of resist A type of resist printing. printing. Portions of the design to be resisted are covered with paper or metal, so that those part do not take dye. Also called Tenter Also called Tenter. An open-width fabricfinishing machine used for adjusting the dimensions of fabrics, drying, heat setting and fixing chemical finishes. See also Stentering See Clip mark. See Clip mark. Same as Tentering. Same as Tentering. A controlled straightening A controlled straightening and and stretching process of stretching process of cloth which has been cloth which has been pulled out of shape due to the many rough pulled out of shape finishing processes. The due to the many selvedges of the cloth rough finishing are attached to a series processes. of pins/hooks/clips as it is fed through a stenter machine; an oven of controlled temperature, which is dry, heated or steam heated. During the process, as the pins/hooks/clips are gradually placed further apart widthways, the cloth is slowly and permanently brought out to the desired width. Stenterring give the fabric particular dimensions of length and width, and eliminate creasing. Thermoplastic



913 Word



Category



Short description



STEP-AND-REPEAT PRINTING MACHINE



apparatus, equipage, tools



A machine which copies as many repeats as are required



STEP-HALF STEREO



processes, See Half-drop. operations processes, In printing, a copy of operations cast



STICK-SLIP



general



Alternate periods of sticking and slipping of the surfaces in contact



STICKER



defects



Fabric defect. A distortion in the weave characterised by tight and slack places in the same warp yarns



STIFFENED COTTON SEW-IN STIFFNESS



fabrics



See under Sew-in Woven interfacing. Resistance to deflection or other distortion



STIPPLING



fabrics



processes, In hand engraving for



Description fibre fabrics achieve a ‘set’, when stentered. A machine which copies as many repeats as are required on to a sensitised screen or film in correct register. See Half-drop. In printing, a copy of cast. In flexographic printing the term is applied to the moulded rubber repeats of the pattern, many of which are fixed together to form a complete roller. See also Cast block. Alternate periods of sticking and slipping of the surfaces in contact, when boundary lubrication is deficient. Fabric defect. A distortion in the weave characterised by tight and slack places in the same warp yarns, caused by warp ends restricted by broken filament slubs, or knots catching at lease rods, drop wires, heddles, reeds, or rolled ends. Same as Draw-Back, Hitch Back, Rolled End, Tie Back, Warp Holding Place. See under Sew-in Woven interfacing. Resistance to deflection or other distortion, with regard to circular bending of textiles; resistance to multidirectional bending In hand engraving for



914 Word



Category operations



Short description printing, the tonal effects produced by punching small dots on the copper cylinder with a series of small punches and hammers



STITCH



seams, stitches, fabrics



IN SEWN SEAMS. The repeated unit formed by the sewing thread(s) in the production of seams.



STITCH DENSITY



seams, stitches



In sewn seams, the number of stitches per unit length in one



Description printing, the tonal effects produced by punching small dots on the copper cylinder with a series of small punches and hammers. Not much in use now, because gradations can now be more easily produced photographically. 1. IN SEWN SEAMS. The repeated unit formed by the sewing thread(s) in the production of seams. The geometric configuration of threads used to produce a particular seam. Stitches may be used to join pieces of fabric or to produce a decorative effect. They are classified according to their geometric configuration and are placed into a number of categories within the BS/ISO system. 2. IN WEAVING. See Binding point. 3. IN KNITTING. An intermeshed loop in a knitted fabric 4. IN TUFTED PILE FLOOR COVERING. The number of pile tufts per inch in the lengthways direction. 5. In RUBBERISED ARTICLES. To press uncured rubber compound into or around yarns or cords to form a com-posite of the materials and to remove entrapped air. In sewn seams, the number of stitches per unit length in one row of



915 Word



Category



STITCH GAUGE



seams, stitches



STITCH HOLDING



processes, operations



STITCH SHAPED CUT GARMENT



garments, made-ups, assemblies



Short description Description row of stitching in the stitching in the seam. seam. The number of repeats of the stitch per unit length of the seam, expressed as stitches per centimetre or stitches per inch. In sewn seams, the In sewn seams, the perpendicular distance perpendicular between adjacent distance between parallel rows of stitching. adjacent parallel rows of stitching. In weft knitting, a In weft knitting, a method of shaping a knitted method of shaping a knitted product by product by changing the number of loops in changing the number individual wales by of loops in individual continuing to knit on wales by continuing certain needles whilst to knit on certain knitting is stopped and needles whilst knitting is stopped the stitches held on other needles for a given and the stitches held on other needles for number of courses. It is possible to start to knit a given number of again and join the held courses. stitches into a continuation of the fabric. In ‘fléchage’ the stitch holding is used to produce wedge shaped areas of fabric. Stitch shaped cut is a All knitted garments are classified into four class of knitted garment derived from classes according to general production knitted blanks methods; Fully Cut, (rectangles of knitted Stitch Shaped Cut, Fully fabric). Fashioned and Integral. Stitch shaped cut is a class of knitted garment derived from knitted blanks (rectangles of knitted fabric). The dimensions of the blank are determined by the sizes of the garment portions to be cut from it. The majority of knitwear



916 Word



Category



Short description



Description is produced by this method, together with a very small production of ladies vests. The main advantage of this process is the relatively very low wastage of fabric. The general method involves knitting of rectangular fabric pieces. The pieces, known as ‘blanks’, have the lower edge of the fabric sealed with a structure known as a ‘welt’ that prevents laddering and distortions of waistbands and cuffs The term ‘stitch shaped’ derives from different stitch structures within the length of the blank that distort it from the rectangle into a shape associated with the human body. Commonly such shaping involves engineered rib waistbands and cuffs that restrict the lower extremity of the garment but are extensible. In ladies vests such waistbands occur in the middle of the garment blank. These blanks require minimal preparation for seaming. Cutting involves trimming for length and sometimes for width, followed by cutting neckholes and armholes, lower arms and shoulder shaping. The blank is always made as near as possible to the exact size of the garment portion, or



917 Word



Category



Short description



Description a width multiple of the garment portions. The knitting machinery employed to produce the blanks is in its mechanised form the most complex of all, although it must be admitted that simple hand flat knitting machines can produce highly com-plex blanks, with the ‘programme’ being in the brain of the operative. There are two types of knitting machine employed; flat and circular. Both are usually rib machines, with two knitting beds and two sets of needles. Some are purl type, with two beds sharing one set of needles. Flat knit-ting machines knit blanks with selvedges on the side of the fabric. The blank can be any width up to the total width of the machine bed. Two or more blanks can be knitted at the same time. Flat machines vary in their complexity with the simple types being used for relatively simple garments. Most machines now are computer controlled and programmed and are built for prodigious versatility of fabric type and patterning. (Other mechanical developments of this type of machinery also allow the production of fully-fashioned and



918 Word



Category



Short description



Description integral garments, although at the expense of the production rate). The circular machines produce blanks in the form of tubes. The approach now employed is to have very large diameter machines producing large circumference tubes that are split down the side, opened out and cut in to a series of widths of bodies and sleeves to fit the production requirements and minimise waste. Yet a further approach is the variable circumference machine. This type can produce fabrics as an open width blank, the width of which can be varied to suit the production requirements, with minimal waste. Now circular garment length machines come with programming computers having Computer Aided Design (CAD) facility. The garments are assembled almost entirely by the use of three and four thread overlock machines. Seam cover-ing stitches are sometimes used on the facings or ‘stolling’ of cardigan and back neck seams. Collars are often attached by linked, or increasingly, mock lined seams. Lockstitch seams are used when attaching inextensible trims such as ribbon facings, plackets, leather and



919 Word



Category



Short description



STITCH SHAPING



processes, operations



In weft knitting, a garment shaped wholly or partially by change of stitch length,



STITCH TRANSFERRING processes, A method of shaping operations a garment panel on a flat knitting machine



STITCH TYPE



seams, stitches



A numerical designation relating to the essential characteristics of the interlacing of sewing thread(s) in a specified seam in sewn fabric.



Description woven fabric decorative portions, and tabs and labels. Often, in the initial stages of production prior to cutting, the blanks are steamed in an open bed - in the case of acrylics or pressed in the case of woollen and cotton. Heavy, rectangular, wire frames are sometimes used to hold the blanks to prescribed dimensions. In weft knitting, a garment shaped wholly or partially by change of stitch length, or structure, or both, e.g. from 1x1 rib to half cardigan rib. A method of shaping a garment panel on a flat knitting machine by transferring selvedge loops from one needle bed to the other in a particular sequence designed to increase or decrease the width of the fabric over a given number of courses, whilst maintaining a secure selvedge and without changing the structure. A numerical designation relating to the essential characteristics of the interlacing of sewing thread(s) in a specified seam in sewn fabric. In sewn seams, a numerical designation relating to the essential characteristics of the interlacing of sewing thread(s) in a specified



920 Word



Category



Short description



STITCH-BONDED FABRIC



fabrics



Also called Sew-knit Fabric.



STITCHED AND PINKED SEAM-FINISH



general



A finish for the raw edges of the seam allowances of a plain seam, in which each raw seam allowance edge is machine stitched and then cut to a zigzag raw edge.



STITCHED BASKET WEAVE



fabrics



STITCHED HOPSACK STITCHED PLACE



fabrics defects



A basket weave in which the length of floats is reduced to produce a firm fabric. See under Hopsack. Fabric defect. An area where the interlacing of the warp and weft threads does not conform to the planned weave.



STITCHED SEAM STITCHING



Description stitch Also called Sew-knit Fabric. Fabrics produced by unconventional methods, other than weaving. Yarns are stitched together or a web of fibres is stitched. See Malimo. A finish for the raw edges of the seam allowances of a plain seam, in which each raw seam allowance edge is machine stitched and then cut to a zigzag raw edge. A stitched and pinked seam-finish is made by first stitching 6 mm from the raw edge of each seam allowance and then trimming close to that stitching with pinking shears. (Compare Pinked Seam-finish.) A basket weave in which the length of floats is reduced to produce a firm fabric. See under Hopsack. Fabric defect. An area where the interlacing of the warp and weft threads does not conform to the planned weave. It is usually caused by one or more ends being lifted out of sequence by an adjacent end or heddle. See Sewn seam.



seams, See Sewn seam. stitches 1.A series of stitches processes, A series of stitches embodied in a material operations, embodied in a defects material or materials or materials of planar of planar structure structure such as woven such as woven textile textile fabrics, usually for



921 Word



Category



STITCHING JIG



apparatus, equipage, tools



STITCHINGS



seams, stitches



STOCK DYEING



processes, operations



STOCK IN PROCESS



general



STOCKINETTE



fabrics



Short description fabrics



Description ornamental purposes, finishing or joining edges. 2. See Cobwebbing A device having two A device having two rigid plates usually hinged rigid plates usually together between which hinged together fabric is clamped for between which fabric stitching. The plates are is clamped for guided by a track thus stitching. reducing the skill needed for accurate sewing of small parts, e.g. collars, cuffs, flaps. See also Profile Stitching. Stitchings consist of Stitchings consist of a a sequence of sequence of stitches, stitches applied to a fabric or composite, for the purpose of finishing an edge or for ornamentation Dyeing loose fibres in Dyeing loose fibres in bulk form bulk form, before any yarn manufacturing operations have begun In textile spinning, In textile spinning, staple staple fibres at any fibres at any stage of stage of manufacture manufacture between the opening of the bale and the completion of the spinning process IN KNITS. A knitted 1. IN KNITS. A knitted fabric made with a fabric made with a plain stitch or wool, cotton, plain stitch or wool, man-made fibres or cotton, man-made combinations of these fibres or fibres, in tubular or flat combinations of form. Used for these fibres, in tubular or flat form. underwear, industrial and other purposes. In heavier constructions, dyed and napped, it finds apparel uses. 2. IN WOVEN. A variation of the two up, two down twill weave generally employed for



922 Word



STOLL ABRASION TESTER



STOLLING



STONE WASH STOP



STOP MARK



STOP MOTION



STOP, RELEASING STOPPING LINE STORAGE STABILITY



Category



Short description



apparatus, Specialised machine equipage, developed for testing tools the wear-life of fabrics



Description spongy fabric of low count yarns. Specialised machine developed for testing the wear-life of fabrics by flex and flat abrasion, bending, rolling and folding A knitted strip used as a facing, in which the wales run along the length See under Enzymes.



garments, A knitted strip used made-ups, as a facing, in which assemblies the wales run along the length processes, See under Enzymes. operations accessories In zippers, the device In zippers, the device at at the top and bottom the top and bottom of the chain or stringer that of the chain or prevents the slider from stringer leaving the chain. Also called Start-up defects Also called Start-up Mark. Fabric defect, Mark. Fabric defect, may be major or minor. A may be major or visible change in the minor density of the weave across the width of the fabric caused by the tension on the warp not being adjusted properly after the loom has been stopped. When the loom is stopped, the yarn elongates under tension; then when the loom starts again, the slackness is woven into the fabric. See also Set Mark. apparatus, A device which stops A device which stops the equipage, the machine machine whenever a tools whenever a fault or a fault or a break occurs. break occurs. accessories See Bottom See Bottom Releasing Releasing Stop Stop defects See Start-up Mark. See Start-up Mark. processes, The ability of a 1. The ability of a operations sensitized fabric to sensitized fabric to remain sensitized remain sensitized without



923 Word



Category



STOTING



seams, stitches



STOVING



STRAIGHT DRAFT



Short description without curing itself spontaneously while being stored.



A hand stitch used to draw together two cut edges of fabrics. processes, A process for operations bleaching wool, silk, hair or other keratinous materials



processes, operations



Description curing itself spontaneously while being stored. 2.In general, the ability of a textile material to retain its properties under storage. A hand stitch used to draw together two cut edges of fabrics. A process for bleaching wool, silk, hair or other keratinous materials in a moist condition with sulphur dioxide in a chamber. The passage of the warp ends of a repeat in sequence from the first to the last harness



The passage of the warp ends of a repeat in sequence from the first to the last harness STRAIGHT KNIFE apparatus, A machine with a A machine with a vertical CUTTING MACHINE equipage, vertical reciprocating reciprocating blade used tools blade used for cutting for cutting fabric lays. fabric lays. Also called a ‘vertical cutting machine’. STRAIGHT LINE SYSTEM processes, A garment production A garment production operations system system, in which single garments or parts are assembled by passing through a series of consecutive operations, performed by different operators. A type of knitting STRAIGHT-BAR apparatus, A type of knitting KNITTING MACHINE equipage, machine equipped machine equipped with vertically disposed tools with vertically bearded needles disposed bearded needles mounted in a mounted in a bar. Loop formation is aided by bar. loop forming sinkers, knock over bits and pressers. Machines are actually made with a number of ‘heads’, each head consisting of a needle bar with its attendant sinkers and



924 Word



Category



Short description



STRAIN



defects



Deformation of a material caused by the application of an external force.



STRAND



fibers, filaments, yarns



A single fibre, filament, or monofilament.



STRAND IRREGULARITY



fabrics



STRAW



Description capable of producing a single piece garment. It is this machine that is used to produce the majority of fullyfashioned garments, most of which are knitted in plain fabric. Deformation of a material caused by the application of an external force. See also Tensile Strain. 1. A single fibre, filament, or monofilament. 2. An ordered assemblage of textile fibres having a high ratio of length to diameter and normally used as a unit, including slivers, rovings, single yarns, plied yarns, cords, braids, ropes, etc. 3. In braided rope, one of a number of similar units, which are intertwined to produce a braided rope, each unit consisting of one or more yarns which are not twisted together and which follow a prescribed path through the braided rope. 4. In twisted and plaited rope, the main component consisting of an ordered assemblage of yarns. In textiles, variation in a property along a strand.



In textiles, variation in a property along a strand. fibers, A broad classification A broad classification of plant fibres obtained filaments, of plant fibres from stems, stalks, yarns obtained from stems, stalks, leaves, bark, leaves, bark, etc. they are braided, plaited or etc. woven into hats, shoes, and mats.



925 Word STRAW COTTON



Category fibers, filaments, yarns



Short description Cotton thread that has been heavily sized with starch.



STRAYING END



defects



Fabric defect, major, in warp knit fabric



STREAK



defects



An extended unintentional stripe of narrow width, often a single yarn.



STREAK STITCH



seams, stitches



STREAKED WARP



defects



A stitch used to produce open veins of leaves in handmade lace. Fabric defect. It occurs when one of the section of the warp, as it creeled was not under proper tension or was of incorrect shade.



STRENGTH



general



STRENGTH COUNT PRODUCT STRENGTH, AT BREAK



general general



STRESS



general



Description Cotton thread that has been heavily sized with starch. A wiry, harsh feel makes the thread strawlike and therefore suitable for making straw-like products Fabric defect, major, in warp knit fabric, caused by an end of yarn breaking and the loose end straying and being knit irregularly into another area Fabric defect. 1. An extended unintentional stripe of narrow width, often a single yarn. 2. A stain (rust, oil, dye, grease, soap, etc.) extended as an irregular stripe in the cloth. A stitch used to produce open veins of leaves in handmade lace.



Fabric defect. It occurs when one of the section of the warp, as it creeled was not under proper tension or was of incorrect shade. When the fabric is dyed, this defect becomes much more discernible. The property of a The property of a material that resists material that resists deformation induced deformation induced by external forces. by external forces. (Compare with Force.) See Break Factor. See Break Factor. See Breaking strength. The resistance to deformation



See Breaking strength. The resistance to deformation developed



926 Word



Category



STRETCH



general



STRETCH FABRIC, WOVEN STRETCH FABRICS



fabrics fabrics



Short description Description developed within within material subjected material subjected to to an external force. an external force. Elongation of fibre, 1. Elongation of fibre, yarn or fabric by yarn or fabric by tension. tension. 2. To extend in length or width by tension, e.g. to stretch piece goods in tentering. See Woven Stretch See Woven Stretch Fabric. Fabric. All knitted fabrics and All knitted fabrics and many woven fabrics many woven fabrics with with conventional conventional yarns have yarns have small but small but varying degree of stretch and elastic varying degree of stretch and elastic recovery. Stretch-fabrics, however, stretch recovery. considerably and recover immediately or within a short time. This characteristic is achieved by the use of elastomeric fibres, stretch yarns or finishing treatments. Garments made from stretch fabric are comfortable, fit without pressure and keep their shape. Cotton fabrics may be given stretch properties in three ways: 1. By the use of stretch cotton yarns, made by the ‘twist-set-untwist’ method similar to that used for synthetic fibres. Preliminary chemical treatment is necessary. 2. By the use of torque or lively yarns in certain fabric construction imparts stretch. 3. By the use of yarn that has been mercerised under slack conditions. Woollen clothes may be given stretch properties



927 Word



Category



Short description



STRETCH SPINNING



processes, operations



A special method of spinning rayon.



STRETCH TOWELLING



fabrics



Knit fabric with short loop pile to give it a thin terry towelling appearance on the right side.



Description in three ways: 1. By the use of stretch yarns method; two-ply yarns are given the ‘twist-set-untwist’ treatment. 2. By the production of yarn crimp in weaving, e.g. for ski trousers with warp stretch, two warps are used, one a worsted yarn, the other a cotton one held under tension. After being woven, the cloth is set, the cotton is re-moved and a stretch develops. 3. By the use of finishing treatment. To produce a weft stretch, the cloth is chemically set with the warp under tension. On drying the crimp passes from the warp to the weft. This method, referred to as crimp development and interchange, has been used for sports and women’s form-fitting trousers. A special method of spinning rayon. The stretched filaments are spun while moist and before final coagulation. This gives the filament, increased strength. Knit fabric with short loop pile to give it a thin terry towelling appearance on the right side. It is produced in plain colours and in patterns and stripes. Made from cotton and polyamide, it has a great deal of stretch. Very useful for baby clothes, children’s



928 Word



Category



STRETCH YARN



fibers, filaments, yarns



STRETCHED FILLING STRIKE-OFF



defects processes, operations



STRING



general



Short description



Description clothes, sports outfits, jump suits, bathrobes, etc. See also Pile knit. A generic term for A generic term for thermoplastic filament or thermoplastic spun yarns having a high filament or spun degree of potential yarns elastic stretch and rapid recovery, and characterised by a high degree of yarn curl. Yarn capable of being stretched, but having rapid recovery on relaxation. See also Bulk Yarn. See Tight Pick. See Tight Pick. In printing, sample In printing, sample prints prints made to prove made to prove the the accuracy of printaccuracy of printscreens/rollers. screens/rollers. A small cord, larger A small cord, larger than than thread and thread and smaller than smaller than rope rope, e.g. a shoestring, lacing, etc. used mainly for tying or fastening objects. See under Lace See under Lace Machines. Machines.



STRING WARP MACHINE apparatus, equipage, tools In zippers, the tape, STRINGER accessories In zippers, the tape, bead, and element bead, and element assembly that constitutes assembly that constitutes one side one side of a chain, i.e. the textile tape, to which of a chain is attached, a row of metal or plastic members which may or may not be interconnected, designed to in-terlock with another row similarly attached to another tape. STRINGY SELVEDGE defects See Slack Selvedge. See Slack Selvedge. STRIP BACKS defects See Broken See Broken filaments. filaments. STRIP TEST processes, A method of A method of measuring operations measuring the the breaking strength of



929 Word



Category



STRIPE



fabrics



STRIPE YARN



fibers, filaments, yarns



STRIPINESS



defects



STRIPPING



processes, operations



STRONG WOOL



fibers, filaments,



Short description Description breaking strength of fabric. The test specimen fabric used in strip form A line or narrow band A line or narrow band in in a fabric a fabric produced by using different colour, weave, or raw material. A type of fancy yarn. A type of fancy yarn. A yarn that contains elongated knops. See also Knop Yarn. It can be made (i) as a knop with a moving knopping bar to spread the surplus thread or knop, or (ii) by alternate fast and slow delivery of one or more of its component threads and a constant rate of delivery of the base threads. The threads join below a stationary bar to form the intermittent stripes. Defect in knitted fabric. Defect in knitted Lengthways areas, of fabric. Lengthways several wales width, areas, of several appearing darker in wales width, colour from normal appearing darker in fabric. This is mostly colour from normal caused by walefabric consolidation or distortion arising from uneven width tension during knitting that is subsequently accentuated by dyeing and finishing, or from poor width control during open-width processing The removal of 1. The removal of colour colour from dyed from dyed textile with the textile with the use of use of chemicals. chemicals. 2. The removal of sericin from the silk. 3. The removal of short fibres and waste Extra-long staple A term with several wool from any wool meanings, including:



930 Word



STRUCTURAL DESIGN STRUSA



STT YARN



STUBBLE



STUBBLE HEIGHT



STUD BREAKER



STUFF



STUFFER YARN STUFFER-BOX TEXTURING STYLE



SUBLIMATION



Category yarns



Short description clip



fabrics See under Design fibers, See Frisons. filaments, yarns fibers, See Self-twist filaments, Twisted Yarn. yarns garments, In shorn floor made-ups, covering, the portion assemblies of the pile that remains after shearing. garments, The distance the made-ups, stubble extends assemblies above the backing fabric. apparatus, See Breaking equipage, Machine. tools fabrics An old eighteenthcentury word used to describe any fabric containing worsted yarns. fabrics See Wadding yarn. processes, See under Textured operations Yarn. general A characteristic mode of design, construction, texture, etc. defects



Description 1. Extra-long staple wool from any wool clip 2. An Australian term for crossbred sheep, and 3. The description of British lustre wools. See under Design See Frisons.



See Self-twist Twisted Yarn. In shorn floor covering, the portion of the pile that remains after shearing. The distance the stubble extends above the backing fabric. See Stubble. See Breaking Machine.



An old eighteenthcentury word used to describe any fabric containing worsted yarns. See Wadding yarn. See under Textured Yarn. A characteristic mode of design, construction, texture, etc. in either a household or garment textile Undesirable transfer Undesirable transfer of of colour from colour from synthetic synthetic fibres dyed fibres dyed with low with low molecular molecular weight weight disperse dyes disperse dyes, on application of heat, to adjacent fibres which, may be white or another shade. However, it is to



931 Word



Category



Short description



SUBLIMATION PRINTING processes, operations



A form of transfer printing employing dyes



SUBSTANTIVE DYES SUBSTRATE



seams, stitches general



SUEDE



fabrics



SUEDE FABRIC



fabrics



SUINT



fibers,



See Direct Dyes. In textiles, a fibre, fibre assembly, yarn, fabric or film to which another material is applied The correct term is suede leather, because it is now usually calfskin treated on the inside to give it a napped or sueded finish.



Description be noted that ‘thermofix’ dyeing methods depend on the phenomenon of sublimation A form of transfer printing employing dyes that sublime readily and have substantivity for the substrate to which they are applied. See Direct Dyes. In textiles, a fibre, fibre assembly, yarn, fabric or film to which another material is applied



The correct term is suede leather, because it is now usually calfskin treated on the inside to give it a napped or sueded finish. Is smooth and attractive and can be dyed in a variety of fashion colours. Used for a wide range of garments. There is a wide There is a wide variety of variety of simulated simulated suede or suede or suede suede fabrics. Most fabrics. types are fairly expensive, although the advantage over real suede is that they do not take on permanent creases or show wear easily, and most of them are washable. The method of manufacture varies and so does the fibre content. Suede fabrics are suitable for dresses, jackets for men and women, skirts, children’s clothes, sports and leisure outfits. Excretion from sweat Excretion from sweat



932 Word



SUITING LACE



Category Short description filaments, glands of sheep, yarns which is deposited on wool fibres. fabrics Term used to describe any type of firm lace



SULPHUR FIBRE



fibers, filaments, yarns



SULPHURISING



processes, Bleaching wools and operations silks by means of sulphur. fabrics Dyed fabrics, which do not change colour under normal exposure to sunlight or under standard tests with the ‘fade-ometer’. T



SUNFAST



SUNLIGHT RESISTANCE



A manufactured fibre in which the fibreforming substance is a long chain synthetic polysulphide



fibers, All fibres are affected filaments, by prolonged yarns exposure to sunlight in varying degrees.



Description glands of sheep, which is deposited on wool fibres. Term used to describe any type of firm lace which would be suitable and durable for formal garments such as jackets and skirts. The yarns are usually thick matt and firm, such as cotton and viscose. The motifs or designs are deliberately close together to provide stability and to prevent the fabric from being too ‘see-through’. A manufactured fibre in which the fibre-forming substance is a long chain synthetic polysulphide in which at least 85 % of the sulphide (-S-) linkages are attached directly to two aromatic rings Bleaching wools and silks by means of sulphur. Dyed fabrics, which do not change colour under normal exposure to sunlight or under standard tests with the ‘fade-o-meter’. There are very few colours which can be truly called really sunfast. All fibres are affected by prolonged exposure to sunlight in varying degrees. The gradual damage caused by the ultraviolet rays of the sun may be very mild and negligible in many fibres, but on a few fibres it can



933 Word SUNN



SUNRAY PLEATS



SUPER COP



SUPER-DULL



SUPERFINE WOOL



Category



Short description



fibers, A bast fibre obtained filaments, from the plant yarns ‘crotolaria juncea’. garments, Pleats radiating from made-ups, a single point, usually assemblies the centre of full circular skirts. apparatus, A wooden or plastic equipage, conical base on tools, which weft is wound for use in a shuttle loom.



fibers, filaments, yarns fibers, filaments, yarns



SUPERWASH WOOL



general



SUPIMA



fibers,



See under Delustred



Description be severe. A bast fibre obtained from the plant ‘crotolaria juncea’. Pleats radiating from a single point, usually the centre of full circular skirts. 1. A wooden or plastic conical base on which weft is wound for use in a shuttle loom. 2. The weft package produced by winding yarn onto the base described above. See under Delustred



The finest, most The finest, most expensive wools for expensive wools for men’s suiting and men’s suiting and luxury knitwear. Mostly from luxury knitwear. Australian Saxon Merino sheep. This label, attached This label, attached to wool fabrics, garments to wool fabrics, garments and hand and hand knitting yarns, indicates that the product knitting yarns, will not shrink when indicates that the machine washed as product will not shrink when machine instructed on the label. In washed as instructed addition, the dye will not bleed or stain other on the label. articles being washed. Superwash is a trademark promoted by the International Wool Secretariat. The treatment, a reduction of the tendency of fibre to bond to fibre, is applied mainly to worsted yarns, although those for woollen yarns are being developed. Trade mark for a Trade mark for a



934 Word



Category filaments, yarns



Short description Description superior type of high superior type of high quality, extra-long- quality, extra-long-staple, staple, Amercan- Amercan-Egyptian cotton Egyptian cotton SUPPORTED NEEDLED garments, A textile structure A textile structure (felt, FELT made-ups, (felt, needled, needled, unsupported) in assemblies unsupported) combination with a woven, knitted, or stitched textile fabric. The creation of shape by SUPPRESSION processes, The creation of operations shape by removal of removal of a calculated a calculated amount amount of fabric from the surface area of the of fabric garment, especially in women’s wear. The name given SURAH fabrics The name given originally to a fine soft originally to a fine twill weave silk fabric soft twill weave silk used for dresses, fabric used for scarves and head dresses, scarves and squares in plain or head squares in plain printed styles. Soft twill or printed styles. fabric made from filament yarns, including silk, polyester, acetate, triacetate. The usual twill used is 2/2 which gives the fabric a fine appearance. Surah dress fabrics are made in cellulose acetate and triacetate fibres and these have a remarkably silk-like handle. Is always a printed shiny fabric. It is not hard-wearing, and tends to develop slippage at seams and points of strain, and creases easily. Used for loose dresses, blouses, scarves, ties and as a lining fabric. Slippery and will fray readily. SURFACE CONTOUR fabrics The divergence of a The divergence of a surface from surface from planeness planeness rough rough (high) to smooth (high) to smooth (low). See Hand of



935 Word SURFACE FRICTION



SURFACE PRINTING



SURFACE ROLLER PRINTING



SURFACE WATER ABSORPTION BY FABRIC



SURFACE WEAVE



SURGICAL GAUZE



Category



Short description Description (low). fabric. fabrics Resistance to Resistance to slipping slipping offered by offered by surface harsh surface harsh (high) (high) to slippery (low). to slippery (low). See Hand of fabric. processes, A printing method in A printing method in operations which the pattern is which the pattern is raised in relief above raised in relief above the the surface of the surface of the printing printing device. device. Has a limited use in textiles. Also called relief printing’, ‘kiss printing’ processes, Rotary printing from Rotary printing from operations cylinders patterned in cylinders patterned in relief relief; it was used for traditional chintz to give a hand-block effect, but is now used only in specialist firms and in the wallpaper industry. processes, The process of The process of removing operations removing liquid water liquid water from a from a surface such surface such as human as human skin, skin, dishes, or furniture. dishes, or furniture. By employing an extra fabrics By employing an yarn, designs can be extra yarn, designs woven into cloth while can be woven into cloth while the basic the basic fabric is being woven. A lappet design fabric is being is produces by using woven. needles carrying warp yarn. This yarn, firmly fastened in the fabric as each design is finished, is floated on the back to the next design and after weaving the float is cut. Another surface weave is the swivel design, which is produced by using shuttles with extra weft yarn which is cut automatically after each design is woven. fabrics A bleached and A bleached and sterilized sterilized cheesecloth cheesecloth used in



936 Word SUSPENDER WEB SUSURRUS SUTURE LINE



Category



Short description used in surgery. accessories See Brace web. general A rustling sound, as of silk taffeta. processes, A line within weft operations knitted fabric at which the wales are caused to change direction collectively



SWAB



garments, made-ups, assemblies



SWADDLE



fabrics



SWANSDOWN



fabrics, accessories



SWATCH



general



SWEAL MARK SWEALING



A kind of mop, especially a rope mop, that is used aboard ships. A fabric used for a bandage or band Heavily napped cotton fabric



A bunch of collection of sample cuttings of materials



defects See under Swealing. processes, Migration of dye into operations, the angles of folds defects and creases during dyeing.



Description surgery. See Brace web. A rustling sound, as of silk taffeta. A line within weft knitted fabric at which the wales are caused to change direction collectively. It is formed either by knitting more loops in certain wales than in others and or during the knitting of pouches. A kind of mop, especially a rope mop, that is used aboard ships. A fabric used for a bandage or band 1. Heavily napped cotton fabric. Highly inflammable. Used for nightwear. 2. A narrow fuzzy decoration originally made from the downy breast feathers of the swan, but now more often made from synthetic fibres. Used to trim nightwear, evening gowns A bunch of collection of sample cuttings of materials used to indicate their representative characteristics. See under Swealing. 1. Migration of dye into the angles of folds and creases during dyeing. 2. Fabric defect. Partial transfer of colour, dirt or grease into the surrounding fabric, caused by unsatisfactory



937 Word



Category



SWEATSHIRT FABRIC



fabrics



SWEEPING WASTE



general



SWELL RATIO



fibers, filaments, yarns



SWELLED EDGES



seams, stitches



SWIFT



apparatus, equipage, tools



SWIMMING-TUB



apparatus, equipage,



Short description



Description removal of stains by hand from a fabric when using an aqueous solvent treatment. The resulting mark is frequently referred to as a ‘sweal mark’, ‘halo’ or ‘ring’ Acrylic or cotton knit Acrylic or cotton knit fabric with a bumpy fabric with a bumpy fleecy back in a variety of fleecy back in a plain colours and striped variety of plain colours and striped designs. The yarns used are often marled. Some designs. fabrics are quite thin; all stretch easily and lose their shape. Not hardwearing. Used for sports and leisure clothes. The sweeping from The sweeping from the the floors of the floors of the various various rooms in the rooms in the mill. This is mill. usually of a short and fluffy character. Also called Bulge Ratio. Also called Bulge In man-made fibre Ratio. In man-made fibre extrusion, the extrusion, the ratio of the ratio of the maximum maximum diamter of the extrudate as the solution diamter of the of melt emerges from the extrudate as the spinneret to the orifice solution of melt diameter. The emerges from the phenomenon is known spinneret to the as Die swell. orifice diameter. An effect achieved by An effect achieved by a a row of stitching, row of stitching, sewn at a specific and regular distance from the finished edge of a garment, usually between 1/2 and 2 cm. The revolving frame The revolving frame onto onto which a hank is which a hank is mounted mounted when it is when it is unwound. Also called Rice. unwound. In printing, a wooden In printing, a wooden tub, tub, half-filled with half-filled with thickening



938 Word



SWIMWEAR



SWING NEEDLE MACHINE



SWISS SWISS BAR



SWISS DOUBLE PIQUÉ SWISS LACE



SWISS RIB SWISSING



Category Short description tools thickening or old dyepaste to give resilience, over which is stretched a waterproof covering and on which is resting the sieve - a drum stretched over tightly with woollen cloth.



Description or old dye-paste to give resilience, over which is stretched a waterproof covering and on which is resting the sieve - a drum stretched over tightly with woollen cloth. The colour is spread on to the sieve and the block pressed against it before printing. Textile garments intended for wear in fresh, chlorinated, or salt water. A sewing machine, with a needle bar which alternates laterally during sewing to produce a ‘zigzag’ stitch.



garments, Textile garments made-ups, intended for wear in assemblies fresh, chlorinated, or salt water. apparatus, A sewing machine, equipage, with a needle bar tools which alternates laterally during sewing to produce a ‘zigzag’ stitch. fabrics See Dotted Swiss. See Dotted Swiss. apparatus, The middle guide The middle guide bar, in equipage, bar, in a lace a lace furnishing tools furnishing machine, machine, equipped with equipped with three three guide bars. It is guide bars. usually clothed with threads from the bottom spool board. fabrics See under Double See under Double piqué piqué A furnishing lace fabrics A furnishing lace obtained by contrasting obtained by two densities of clothing. contrasting two The lighter densities densities of clothing. consist of V-ties made from the Swiss bar between two or more pillars. The heavy density is made from the back bar in a complementary class of work. fabrics See under Rib See under Rib Fabric, Fabric, Weft-knitted. Weft-knitted. processes, A calendering A calendering operation operations operation for cotton for cotton fabrics which



939 Word



SWIVEL LOOM



SWIVEL WEAVING



SYDDO RAGS



SYNTHESIZED FIBRES



SYNTHETIC FELT



SYNTHETIC FIBRE



Category



Short description fabrics which compresses fabric to produce a smooth, compact appearance with moderate lustre apparatus, A loom for narrow equipage, fabrics such as tools ribbons and tapes, the picking being done by a special type of small shuttle controlled by a swivel fabrics A fabric in which figure is achieved by the introduction of additional weft threads into a base fabric to produce small clipped wovenin spot effects.



Description compresses fabric to produce a smooth, compact appearance with moderate lustre. Hot or cold rollers are used. A loom for narrow fabrics such as ribbons and tapes, the picking being done by a special type of small shuttle controlled by a swivel A fabric in which figure is achieved by the introduction of additional weft threads into a base fabric to produce small clipped woven-in spot effects. The figuring yarn is fed from a series of small shuttles mounted over the top of the weaving surface. See Siddo rags



garments, See Siddo rags made-ups, assemblies Fibres made from fibers, Fibres made from chemicals that were filaments, chemicals that were never fibrous in yarns never fibrous in character character fabrics A non-woven fabric, A non-woven fabric, fairly fairly thin but with an thin but with an interesting texture interesting texture. It dyes well and is available in a range of bright clear colours. It has no grain but it does not stretch. Used for decoration, appliqué, etc., and such things as fancy dress and theatrical costumes. fibers, Term used loosely Term used loosely for all filaments, for all man-made man-made fibres. Strictly yarns fibres. the term includes only textile fibres made by chemical synthesis, such as nylon, rayon, saran,



940 Word



Category



Short description



SYSTEMATIC SAMPLING processes, operations



The process of selecting units in a sample in accordance with a specific order or location in time or space or both.



Description etc. See also Fibre. The process of selecting units in a sample in accordance with a specific order or location in time or space or both.



T Word T-CLOTH



Category Short description I A coarse, plain weave cotton cloth made with approximately the same number of ends and picks per square inch and heavily sized.



T-SHIRT



z



A simple style of short sleeve shirt, made from cut and sewn knitted fabric. See Twist on twist. See Turns per inch The starting point of a weave



T.O.T. T.P.I. TAB



v v fabrics



TABARET



I



A finely woven, yarndyed furnishing fabric



TABBY



I¡



See Plain weave.



Description A coarse, plain weave cotton cloth made with approximately the same number of ends and picks per square inch and heavily sized. Originally produced in Great Britain and exported in the loom state to the Orient and other markets. The name was derived from the mark ‘T’ of the original ex-porters. A simple style of short sleeve shirt, made from cut and sewn knitted fabric. See Twist on twist. See Turns per inch The starting point of a weave; the term derived from Tabby when used in relation to plain weave. A finely woven, yarndyed furnishing fabric that has alternate warp stripes of satin and plain weave. Also called Tabourette. 1. See Plain weave. 2. A rich silk velvet.



941 Word



Category



Short description



TABER



F



TABLE COVERINGS



z



A machine for testing the abrasion resistance of fabrics. Fabrics of cotton, linen, rayon, synthetics and blends are used to cover tables.



TABLE FELT TABLE LINEN



z See Table padding. garments, Any cloth, regardless made-ups, of fibre content assemblies



TABLE PADDING



z



Also called ‘table felt’. A soft cotton fabric napped on both sides or quilted.



TABLET WEAVING



I



A method of making woven plain or patterned narrow fabrics.



Description 3. A watered effect produced on by passing the material between engraved rollers. A machine for testing the abrasion resistance of fabrics. Fabrics of cotton, linen, rayon, synthetics and blends are used to cover tables. Crash, damask, organdy, checked gingham, dobbies, etc. are some of the main fabric types used. See Table padding. Any cloth, regardless of fibre content, that is suitable for a table covering. Also called ‘table felt’. A soft cotton fabric napped on both sides or quilted. Used as ‘silence cloth’. A method of making woven plain or patterned narrow fabrics. The warp shed is controlled by tablets made of thin, stiff material, e.g. cardboard, plastic, bone, etc. Tablets are usually about 5 cm to 10 cm square, although other shapes, e.g. triangles, hexagons, etc., are also used. Each tablet has a hole at each corner through the warp yarns are threaded. Rotating the tablets controls the rise and fall of the warp yarns



942 Word TABOURETTE TABS



Category I fabrics



TACK



v



TACKING



;¡



TACKING CUT



I



Short description See Tabaret The ends of a fabric less than one yard length to adhere at the area of contact.



Description See Tabaret The ends of a fabric less than one yard length Rubber or rubber compounds have the property, that causes two layers of these materials, when pressed together, to adhere at the area of contact. STITCH. Machine or 1. STITCH. Machine or hand stitching, hand stitching, sometimes decorative sometimes decorative to reinforce parts of a to reinforce parts of a garment. See Bar garment. See Bar Tack. Tack. It is to be noted that in some sections of the industry, this term is used to mean the same as Basting. 2. IN PROCESSING. Sewing together of the two selvedges of a fabric that has been folded length-wise, with the face side in. This is done to encourage ballooning, and thereby reduce rope mark-ing during wet processing and also to protect the face of the fabric in other finishing operations. It helps to prevent wrinkles, and selvedge curling. Sometimes also called Bagging. Fabric defect. Fabric defect. Small holes or cuts along the selvedge of the cloth, caused by holes remaining after fabric has been tacked (sewn) along edges to



943 Word



Category



Short description



TACKSPUN FABRIC



fabrics



A material made from a polymer film with backing substrate.



TACTEL



v



A new type of filament nylon yarn.



TADPOLE ÉPONGE



I



An éponge made with several plain ends alternating with a loop yarn in the warp and plain weft



TAFFETA



fabrics



Taffeta is used as a dress blouse fabric or as a lining and in certain types of lingerie.



Description protect face of cloth during wet finishing. A material made from a polymer film with backing substrate. The film is melted by a roller, to which it adheres. As the film and roller separate a fibrous pile is formed. A new type of filament nylon yarn. It is particularly suitable for making woven and knitted fabrics for sportswear. An éponge made with several plain ends alternating with a loop yarn in the warp and plain weft. The loops are scattered over the face. Originally taffeta was a smooth, fine, close, plain-weave, fabric made from even yarns of shiny filament, usually silk of light or medium weight. The fabric had a sheen and the stiff handle produced a rustling noise when worn as a garment. It was a fairly square fabric so that an even surface was presented. However, increasing quantities of taffeta are now made which are not square and they have, more closely set warp yarns than weft yarns and this produces a faint rib effect across the fabric. Though originally a silk fabric, now more likely



944 Word



Category



TAFFETA GLACÉ



I



TAFFETA METALLIQUE



I



TAFFETA RIBBON



w



TAFFETALINE



I



Short description



Description to be composed of acetate, triacetate, nylon or blends of these. A stiff finish is usually given to the fabric to produce the authentic rustle. It is characteristically crisp with a faint weft-way rib and is usually plain coloured but can be printed. It is not hardwearing, so its use is confined to evening wear, stiff petticoats, lampshades and drapes, and small items such as cummerbunds, artificial flowers, evening bags, stage costumes and linings. Taffeta is used as a dress blouse fabric or as a lining and in certain types of lingerie. A changeable taffeta A changeable taffeta with a high lustre made with a high lustre made with a different with a different colour in warp and weft. colour in warp and weft. A taffeta with a A taffeta with a metallic metallic colour effect colour effect given in given in the finish. the finish. A ribbon of A ribbon of continuous continuous filament filament yarn in plain yarn in plain weave weave, with a relatively high warp density and a very fine, almost imperceptible rib, generally with a selvedge of contrasting weave. A plain weave fabric A plain weave fabric made of waste silk, made of waste silk, finished in imitation of finished in imitation of taffeta. taffeta. Made in various qualities. Mainly used



945 Word



Category



Short description



TAFFETINE



fabrics



A lightweight, plain weave, slightly stiffened fabric



TAFFETIZED FABRICS



I



A range of cotton fabrics given a permanent partially glazed surface finish



TAFFETIZED FINISH



processes, operations



A non-permanent crisp finish



TAG CLOTH TAIL



I v



See Label cloth. A length of yarn wound onto a cheese or cone at the commencement of winding that



TAIL END



I



TAILED COTTON



v



TAILING



defects



The end of a piece of a fabric, where that piece is finished on the loom. A stringy cotton resulting from the ginning of cotton when it is too damp. Dyeing defect.



Description for lining dress skirts. Also called ‘tamtine’ A lightweight, plain weave, slightly stiffened fabric made with closely spaced organzine warp and coarser cotton, linen or silk wefts. Used for linings. A range of cotton fabrics given a permanent partially glazed surface finish, which suggests taffeta. A non-permanent crisp finish applied to fabrics to give a rustle similar to taffeta. See Label cloth. A length of yarn wound onto a cheese or cone at the commencement of winding that protrudes from the main build-up of yarn and can later be attached to the free end yarn of a second package during magazine creeling. The end of a piece of a fabric, where that piece is finished on the loom. Opposite of head end. A stringy cotton resulting from the ginning of cotton when it is too damp. Dyeing defect. A gradual change in colour along a length of material to which colorant has been applied by padding or other continuous techniques.



946 Word TAILOR’S CHALK



Category w



Short description Dyeing defect.



TAILOR’S TACKS TAILOR’S TWIST



Same as Mark-stitch A coarse, strong silk sewing thread used by tailors. Continuous dyeing process for carpets.



v



TAK DYEING



¡



TAKE DOWN



F



A device on a knitting machine that ensures that fabric is removed from the knitting machine



TAKE-IN MACHINE TAKE-UP



F fabrics



See Pull-in machine. Also called Contraction. The difference in distance between two points in a yarn



TAMBOUR



F



A double hoop used to hold fabric for embroidering.



Description Also called Clay. A piece of flat pipeclay, either square or triangular in shape, used for making marking cloth Same as Mark-stitch A coarse, strong silk sewing thread used by tailors. Continuous dyeing process for carpets. The main steps of the process are: (a) carpet wetted; (b) dye and auxiliary chemicals applied; (c) dye fixed in festoon steamer; (d) carpet washed and dried in one pass through the carpet drying range A device on a knitting machine that ensures that fabric is removed from the knitting machine at a constant linear rate or at a constant tension. See Pull-in machine. Also called Contraction. The difference in distance between two points in a yarn as it lies in a fabric and the same two points after the yarn has been removed from the fabric and straightened under specified tension, expressed as a percentage of the straightened length. A double hoop used to hold fabric for embroidering. The



947 Word



TAMBOUR LACE



TAMISE TANGLE TANGLE LACED FABRIC



TANGLING



TAPA CLOTH



Category



Short description



Description fabric is stretched over the inside hoop and held securely in place by the second hoop A piece of net is ¡ A piece of net is stretched on a frame stretched on a frame and the yarn is drawn and the yarn is drawn by a hooked or by a hooked or tambour needle tambour needle through the meshes through the meshes of the net. Tambour work of the net. is of Eastern origin and the tambour is derived from the drum or tambourine-shaped form on which the work is done. In the strictest sense of the word, it is not the lace, but embroidery. May be made by hand or machine. I Similar to Similar to Marquisette. Marquisette. v A mass of fibre, raw A mass of fibre, raw stock, yarn, etc stock, yarn, etc I In formed fabrics, the In formed fabrics, the bonding may be done bonding may be done by tangling the fibres by tangling the fibres rather than by stitching rather than by or spot binding. stitching or spot binding. processes, An entangled An entangled condition operations condition of two or of two or more layers of more layers of tow tow which have become intertwined and withdrawn in that state. May shake out or become disengaged before it reaches the first banding jet or its guide; if not, a break will occur. Also called Snarl and PullI Non-woven cloth, Non-woven cloth, made of beaten bark made of beaten bark fibres of the mulberry fibres of the mulberry tree. tree. Layers of



948 Word



Category



Short description



TAPE



I



A single ply narrow fabric, usually of plain-weave, sometimes knitted, used in non-load bearing applications or reinforcing of fabrics to resist wear and deformation.



TAPE ENDS



w



TAPE RUCHE TAPE SELVEDGE



w I



In zippers, the tape extending beyond the stops at either or both ends of the stringers. See under Ruche. A closely woven, tape-like selvedge



Description cleansed bark are beaten with mallets into a web, which may be made as fine as muslin or tough and leathery. It is easily bleached, dyed and printed. Excellent printed designs are applied by primitive means. It does serve for apparel and decorative use among the natives of the Pacific Islands. Usage mostly limited to the Pacific Islands 1. A single ply narrow fabric, usually of plainweave, sometimes knitted, used in nonload bearing applications or reinforcing of fabrics to resist wear and deformation. See also Webbing. 2. A long narrow flat structure with textilelike properties made from thermoplastic polymer, pa-per, or other appropriate material. In zippers, the tape extending beyond the stops at either or both ends of the stringers. See under Ruche. A closely woven, tapelike selvedge, which consists of two or more additional threads woven in basket weave, differing in construction and appearance from the body of the fabric. This gives the fabric, added



949 Word



Category



Short description



TAPE-FINISHED HEM



z



A raw edge of a garment or household textile that is finished by attaching and stitching a seam



TAPED ENDS



t



Weaving defect



TAPED SEAM



A seam which includes straight tape.



TAPERED CONES



v



TAPESTRY



fabrics



TAPESTRY CARPET



z



See under Biconical package. Highly ornamental fabric, woven on a Jacquard loom, which has an embroidered look.



A patterned carpet woven by the single pile Wilton process, in which a warp, printed before weaving, is used to produce the design.



Description strength and also help resist curling A raw edge of a garment or household textile that is finished by attaching and stitching a seam,binding tape to cover the raw edge. Weaving defect. Two or more warp yarns drawn through the healds and reed as one as a result of being stuck together after sizing process. A seam which includes straight tape. Normally used to prevent stretching and for strength. See under Biconical package. Highly ornamental fabric, woven on a Jacquard loom, which has an embroidered look. Cotton and worsted yarns are used in many colors, usually showing a picture. A heavy fabric used upholstery, curtains and bedspreads. Tapestry sometimes comes into fashion for clothes and is then made lighter in weight. A patterned carpet woven by the single pile Wilton process, in which a warp, printed before weaving, is used to produce the design. When the pile is cut, the carpet is known as tapestry velvet.



950 Word TAPESTRY VELVET CARPET



Category z



TAPESTRY WEAVE



I



TAPPA CLOTH



fabrics



TAPPET FABRIC



fabrics



TARE



o



TARLATAN



fabrics



Short description Description A cut-pile carpet A cut-pile carpet woven woven from a printedfrom a printed-pile pile warp or single warp or single frame of frame of yarn. yarn. It was traditionally woven on a tapestry carpet loom with bladed wires. A construction in A construction in which which wefts are wefts are battened so battened so closely as closely as to conceal to conceal the warps. the warps. Used especially in Navajo weaving. A white fabric made A white fabric made by beating together the by beating together bast or bark of the the bast or bark of the paper mulberry tree. paper mulberry tree. This is done by hand by the natives of the Marquesas Islands. The colour of tappa cloth can be fast when dyed with vegetable dyestuffs. Fabric of a simple Fabric of a simple weave structure weave structure that may be woven on a cam or tappet loom. A deduction from the 1. A deduction from the weight of merchandise weight of merchandise plus plus container, made in allowance for the container, made in weight of the container. allowance for the 2. To yield a specified weight of the proportion or degree of container. wool top over noil, as, this wool tares well. An open, plain-weave An open, plain-weave coarse cotton with a coarse cotton with a starched finish, starched finish, resembling coarse resembling coarse net. net. Highly inflammable. Used in millinery and for stiffening belts as well as for extra stiff petticoats or bustle effects. Often used for stage costumes.



951 Word TARNISH PREVENTION FABRIC



Category I



Short description Chemically treated, napped cloth used to wrap silver



TARNISH RESISTANT FLANNEL



I



Flannel dyed with colours free from sulphur and other substances that possess a tendency to tarnish silver and impregnated with chemicals that absorb sulphur fumes.



TARPAULIN



fabrics



A general term for heavy waterproof canvas fabric, used as protective cover for cargo, etc.



TARRED ROPE



z



A rope which has received an application of tar to increase resistance to the deteriorating effect of water.



TARTAN



fabrics



tartan is an elaborately colored



Description Chemically treated, napped cloth used to wrap silver and to line silver chests, to protect silver from oxidising. Flannel dyed with colours free from sulphur and other substances that possess a tendency to tarnish silver and impregnated with chemicals that absorb sulphur fumes. Used to wrap silver and to line silver chests. A general term for heavy waterproof canvas fabric, used as protective cover for cargo, etc. from weather. Originally made of cotton duck waterproofed with tar. Also plain weave jute or hemp fabric made with taped ends and single filling, waterproofed with tar, paint or other waterproofing substances. Now made of nylon and other synthetic fibres. A rope which has received an application of tar to increase resistance to the deteriorating effect of water. Yarns for this cordage are usually treated with tar by the dipping and saturating process. It also imparts added abrasion resistance. Authentic tartan designs belong to



952 Word



Category



TARTAN CHECKS



I



TASSEL



TATTERSALL CHECK



I



I



Short description check design



Description individual Scottish clans, although many other people now wear them. Cloth is woolen or worsted in twill weave; each tartan is an elaborately colored check design. The traditional garment is the pleated kilt, but tartan cloth is also used for trousers, shawls and fashion garments. Elaborately checked fabric is available which is not authentic tartan, often made from acrylic or cotton. The weight of the cloth varies considerably. Plain or twill weave Plain or twill weave cotton dress fabric cotton dress fabric with with standard standard patterned patterned Scotch Scotch plaids. May plaids. also refer to fibred fabric with a similar plaid pattern. A pendant trimming A pendant trimming with a tuft of loose with a tuft of loose yarn yarn at the end of a at the end of a length of rope-like material. length of rope-like Used for dresses, material. coats, curtains and upholstery. An embroidery stitch used to form fringe. Large, loud check Large, loud check woollen cloth, often in woollen cloth, often in black and white with black and white with another color. another color. Often worn on the racecourse. Used for overcoats, hats, caps and capes for men. Usually heavy. See also Tattersal checks under Checks



953 Word TATTING



TATTING COTTON



TE TEAR



TEAR DROP



TEARINESS TEARING IN PRINTING TEARING STRENGTH



Category Short description Description fabrics Lacy work, of varying Lacy work, of varying coarseness, coarseness, depending depending on the on the thread used thread used (usually crochet thread). It is worked using a shuttle with thread wound on to it, and using the fingers of the other hand in conjunction with it. Usually used only for edgings, motifs, or tablemats. TEARING STRENGTH I The resistance of a fabric to tearing. I A fine, hard twist, A fine, hard twist, cotton thread used in cotton thread used in tatting. tatting. z See Total elongation. See Total elongation. t Fabric defect. Fabric defect. An opening in the structure of a fabric in which several warp or weft yarns, or both, are severed. t Also called Teariness. Also called Teariness. Fabric defect in Fabric defect in woven woven fabrics. fabrics. A fabric condition characterized by short crescent-like elliptical deviations of one or more adjoining picks, caused by insufficient warp tension, incorrect harness timing, oversized warp, uneven penetration of sizing solution. Tear drops are most pronounced in taffetas and grosgrain weaves. t See Tear drop. See Tear drop. ¡ See Tiering. See Tiering. I The resistance of a The resistance of a fabric to tearing. fabric to tearing.



954 Word



TEASE TEASEL TEAZEL TEAZLE



TEAZLE GIG TEAZLING



TEBELIZED



Category



Short description



Description 1. The average force required to start a tear in a fabric under specified conditions. 2. The average force required to continue or propagate a tear, previously started in a fabric, under specified conditions. ¡ The process of The process of napping napping or teaseling. or teaseling. F See Teazle See Teazle F See Teazle See Teazle o Also called Teasel, Also called Teasel, Teazel. Teazel. The dried prickly burr of the plant Fullerr’s thistle (‘Dipsacus fullonam’), used to raise the nap and pile on certain fabrics. The machine used for this purpose is known as Teazle Gig. Wire brushes may also be used for this purpose F See under Teazle. See under Teazle. processes, The dried prickly burr The dried prickly burr operations of the plant Fullerr’s of the plant Fullerr’s thistle thistle is used to raise the nap and pile on certain fabrics. The machine used for this purpose is known as Teazle gig. Wire brushes may also be used for this purpose ¡ A finish applied to A finish applied to many fabrics, many fabrics, including including pile pile constructions. The constructions. finish resists creasing, crushing and mussing; gives the fabrics the ability to recover from wrinkling in wear; remains the same after



955 Word



Category



Short description



TECHNICAL TEXTILES



fabrics



Textile materials and products manufactured primarily for their technical performance



TEDDY BEAR CLOTH



I



TEFLON



v



TEG WOOL TEKKA



v z



A napped fleece coating made of wool and mohair. See Tetrafluoroethylene. See Hog wool. A type of plaited cord made of native wool in Algeria and generally dyed one colour.



TEKLAN



v



Trade name for a modacrylic fibre, which is strong and hardwearing but also soft, warm and light and can be bulked.



Description washing. Textile materials and products manufactured primarily for their technical performance and functional properties rather than their aesthetic or decorative characteristics. Some of the end-uses include, aerospace, industrial, marine, medical, military, safety and transport textiles and geo textiles. A napped fleece coating made of wool and mohair. See Tetrafluoroethylene. See Hog wool. A type of plaited cord made of native wool in Algeria and generally dyed one colour. Used by Arab men to tie trousers. Trade name for a modacrylic fibre, which is strong and hardwearing but also soft, warm and light and can be bulked. Has good resistance to sunlight, bacteria and chemicals and, above all, is nonflammable. Used mainly in woven and knitted dress materials, and household textiles, such as net curtains and furnishing fabrics, and because it is particularly flameresistant, for children’s nightwear. See Acrylics



956 Word TELESCOPIC RAPIER TEMPLE



Category F F



Short description See Rapier. A device used on looms to hold the cloth at the fell as near as possible



TEMPLE CUTTING



t



TEMPLE MARK



t



Fabric defect, caused by fracture of the warp or weft yarn, or both, by temple pins during weaving. Also called Bad temple, Pick-out place, and Rough place.



TEMPORARY SET TENACITY



¡ vI



TENCEL



TENDEL



See under Setting. The maximum specific stress that is developed in a tensile test taken to rupture. fibers, Trade name of a filaments, brand of lyocell fibre. yarns I A variety of biaze dyed with indigo.



TENDER GOODS



t



Fabric which has become weak because of tendering.



TENDER SPOT TENDER SPOTS



t t



See Weak spot Places in fabric which have been excessively weakened, usually by exposure to processing chemicals.



TENDER WOOL



v



Wool, below the



Description See Rapier. A device used on looms to hold the cloth at the fell as near as possible to the width of the warp in the reed; to control the fabric width. Fabric defect, caused by fracture of the warp or weft yarn, or both, by temple pins during weaving. Also called Bad temple, Pick-out place, and Rough place. Fabric defect in woven fabrics. Small holes, impressions, distortions, or marks adjacent to the selvage of the fabric caused by poorly ad-justed or improper temples. See under Setting. The maximum specific stress that is developed in a tensile test taken to rupture. Trade name of a brand of lyocell fibre. See Lyocell. A variety of biaze dyed with indigo. Made in Central Asia. Fabric defect. Fabric which has become weak because of tendering. See Weak spot Places in fabric which have been excessively weakened, usually by exposure to processing chemicals. Also occurs in printing and finishing procedures. Wool, below the normal



957 Word



Category



Short description normal tensile strength. Weakening of textile materials by over exposure to some treatment or finishing operation.



TENDERING



defects



TENERIFFE LACE



fabrics



Lace which is inexpensive typified by a wheel design or spider’s web motif.



TENNIS CLOTH



fabrics



Also called Tennis flannel. A bleached or cream-coloured fabric made of cotton,



TENNIS FLANNEL TENSILE



I general



TENSILE HYSTERESIS CURVE



o



See Tennis cloth. Relating to tension in, or on, a material. A stress-strain or a complex loadelongation curve



Description tensile strength. Weakening of textile materials by over exposure to some treatment or finishing operation. Tendering can occur due to the use of dried-out yarn, very strong a scouring liquor, redyeing, redyeing after stripping the cloth too harshly to remove the colouring on the material, poor singeing, excessive napping, excessive shearing, etc Lace which is inexpensive typified by a wheel design or spider’s web motif. These are often joined to make mats or added to table linen. It is similar to Paraguay lace. Also called Tennis flannel. A bleached or cream-coloured fabric made of cotton, sometimes with wool filling, in a two up, two down twill or other simple weaves, and often decorated with stripes of mercerized cotton or spun silk. Popular for shirting, sportswear and dresses. See Tennis cloth. Relating to tension in, or on, a material. A stress-strain or a complex loadelongation curve obtained when the test



958 Word



Category



TENSILE STRAIN



o



TENSILE STRENGTH



o



TENSILE STRENGTH AT BREAK



o



TENSILE STRESS



o



TENSILE TEST



o



Short description



Description sample is (a) subjected to successive applications of a load or stress less than is required to rupture and to the removal of the load or stress according to a given procedure; (b) stressed less than breaking elongation and is permitted to relax by removing the strain according to the given procedure. The relative length The relative length deformation exhibited deformation exhibited by a specimen by a specimen subjected to a tensile subjected to a tensile force; the extension of force a material subject to tension expressed as a proportion of the length of the specimen. See Breaking See Breaking strength. strength. Also called Breaking Also called Breaking force. force. The tensile force recorded at the moment of rupture. The tensile strength and the tensile strength at break may be different if, after yield, the elongation continues and is accompanied by a drop in force resulting in tensile strength at break being lower than tensile strength. The stress within a The stress within a material subjected to material subjected to tension. tension. A test in which a A test in which a textile textile material is material is extended in extended in one one direction to direction to determine determine one or more



959 Word



Category



Short description one or more of its force-extension



TENSION



o



The force acting along a yarn or fabric sample tending to elongate it



TENSION REP



I



A plain weave rep made on two warp beams, one tensioned slackly and the second tightly.



TENSION TEST



o



A test designed to measure the tautness in a textile strand or fabric.



TENSION-SUPPORTED ROOF



z



A fabric roof-system



TENSOMETER



F



TENT CLOTH



I



A laboratory device that measures the tensile strength, and therefore the tenacity, of the specimen. A strong, waterproof cloth, especially duck, used for tents. A short, slanted type of needlework made in even lines of stitches from left to right.



TENT STITCH



Description of its force-extension; or stress-strain, characteristics; e.g. Breaking force, Elongation at break. The force acting along a yarn or fabric sample tending to elongate it; a uniaxial force tending to cause the extension of a body or the balancing force within that body resisting the extension. A plain weave rep made on two warp beams, one tensioned slackly and the second tightly. Ends are arranged in a simple pattern, e.g. one tight end and alternating with one slack end. A test designed to measure the tautness in a textile strand or fabric. See also Tensile test. A fabric roof-system, that is properly secured and primarily held in place by tensile forces applied across the system. A laboratory device that measures the tensile strength, and therefore the tenacity, of the specimen. A strong, waterproof cloth, especially duck, used for tents. A short, slanted type of needlework made in even lines of stitches from left to right. Commonly used in



960 Word



Category



Short description



TENTER TENTER MARK TENTERING TERENE



F t ¡ v



Same as Stenter. See Clip mark. Same as Stentering. A trade name for polyester resembling Dacron physically



TERINDA



v



Trade name for a polyester fibre, from which a range of knitting yarns has been designed especially for surface finishes.



TERMINOLOGY FOR GRADING PROCESS TERRITORY WOOL



¡



See under Grading.



v



TERRY TERRY FABRIC



I fabrics



TERRY OFF



t



TERRY ON PALAIN



t



Description embroidery. Same as Stenter. See Clip mark. Same as Stentering. A trade name for polyester resembling Dacron physically; in a range of deniers and staple fibres. Trade name for a polyester fibre, from which a range of knitting yarns has been designed especially for surface finishes. The yarns may be bright, dull or extra dull. Used in suede and panne fabrics. See under Grading.



This wool is chiefly of This wool is chiefly of the fine type and it the fine type and it shows heavy shows heavy shrinkage shrinkage and low and low yield. Much of yield. the wool is dull, dark and dirty in-the-grease but it scoures well to a good white. See Terry towelling. See Terry towelling. A warp-pile fabric A warp-pile fabric having the pile in the having the pile in the form of loops, form of loops, which is used for toweling, beach robes, bath mats, etc. Fabric defect. A band Fabric defect. A band in a terry section that in a terry section that has no terry loops. has no terry loops. Usually caused by incorrect let-off motion. Fabric defect. Terry Fabric defect. Terry loops appearing within loops appearing a plain section of a within a plain section terry fabric. Usually of a terry fabric caused by incorrect letoff motion.



961 Word TERRY TOWEL TERRY TOWELING



Category z fabrics



Short description See under Towel. It is cotton backing with uncut loops on the surface.



TERRY VELVET



I



TERTIARY COLOURS



o



A velvet fabric with a looped pile, produced in the same way as Terry toweling. Shade of colour made by mixing the primary colours or one or more of the secondary colours with grey or black.



TERYLENE



v



Trade name of a polyester fibre, produced from petroleum and its byproducts.



Description See under Towel. It is cotton backing with uncut loops on the surface. The best quality toweling has loops on both sides and a firmly woven selvage. The loops are formed by the extra yarn being fed in at a slack tension; they are easily caught and pulled on cheap toweling, but on better quality fabric they are shorter and closer and more firmly anchored. Terry may be plain or printed. Used for robes and beachwear as well as towels, curtains and bath mats, etc. Terry varies in thickness, but all are all bulky. Also sometimes called Turkish toweling. A velvet fabric with a looped pile, produced in the same way as Terry toweling. Shade of colour made by mixing the primary colours or one or more of the secondary colours with grey or black. See also Colour, Primary colours and Secondary colours. Trade name of a polyester fibre, produced from petroleum and its byproducts. Can be successfully bulked. Is extremely hardwearing and mixes well with many other fibres such as cotton, wool, and



962 Word



Category



Short description



TETRAFLUOROETHYLENE



fibers, filaments, yarns



It is Teflon.



TEX



v



Tex is the basic unit of the tex system.



TEX COUNT (tex)



fibers, filaments, yarns



Tex is the basic unit of the tex system



TEX SYSTEM



fibers, filaments, yarns



The internationally accepted system of expressing linear density (mass per unit length) of fibres, filaments, slivers, and yarns, or other linear textile material.



Description viscose. Does not catch light but it melts. Used in all types of dress and furnishing fabrics. See Polyester. It is Teflon. A textile fibre made in either staple or filament form from tetrafluoroethylene monomer unit. Tex is the basic unit of the tex system. A unit for expressing linear density, equal to the mass in grams of 1000 metres of yarn, filament, fibre or other textile strand. It is a recognized SI unit. See Tex system. Tex is the basic unit of the tex system. A unit for expressing linear density, equal to the mass in grams of 1000 metres of yarn, filament, fibre or other textile strand. It is a recognized SI unit. See Tex system and Yarn count in tex system The internationally accepted system of expressing linear density (mass per unit length) of fibres, filaments, slivers, and yarns, or other linear textile material. The basic unit is tex, which is the mass in grams of one kilometre of the product. Multiples and sub-multiples recommended for use in preference to other possible combinations



963 Word



Category



Short description



TEXILOSE



fibers, filaments, yarns



A substitute for jute yarn,



TEXIPIQUÉ



fabrics



A non-jacquard double jersey fabric



TEXTILE



general



The word is derived from the Latin word ‘texere’



Description are: kilogram per kilometre, designated kilotex (ktex); decigram per kilometre, designated decitex (dtex); and milligram per kilometre, designated millitex (mtex). A substitute for jute yarn, consisting of paper strips mixed with short waste textile fibres. A non-jacquard double jersey fabric made on an interlock basis and consisting of a selection of knitted and tuck loops. The word is derived from the Latin word ‘texere’ - to weave; but a wider meaning than simply that of weaving must be accepted since that is only one of a variety of ways of making textile fabrics. Originally a woven fabric, now generally applied to fibres, yarn intermediates, yarns, fabrics, and products made from fabrics which retain more or less completely the strength, flexibility, and other properties of the original fibres or filaments. A textile is a fabric made from fibres but, as shown below, the fibres may either be converted into yarn first and then the yarns put together in one of a variety of ways to make



964 Word



Category



Short description



TEXTILE ARTICLES



z



TEXTILE DESIGN



¡



Yarns, piece goods and made-up articles consisting mainly of textile materials. An arrangement of forms or colours, or both, to be implemented for ornamentation in or on various textile materials.



TEXTILE FABRIC TEXTILE FIBRE



TEXTILE MATERIALS



I See Fabric. fibers, A unit of matter that is filaments, characterized by yarns having a length at least 100 times its diameter or width



general



An inclusive term for



Description fabrics, or the fibres can be converted directly into a fabric. Yarns, piece goods and made-up articles consisting mainly of textile materials. An arrangement of forms or colours, or both, to be implemented for ornamentation in or on various textile materials. Designs or patterns may be woven or knitted into the structure of a fabric; may form a surface decoration; or a blend of colours may brighten or improve the design or pattern. See Fabric. A unit of matter that is characterized by having a length at least 100 times its diameter or width and which can be spun into a yarn or made into a fabric by interlacing in a variety of methods, including weaving, knitting, braiding, felting, and twisting. Not, all fibres are suitable for textile purposes because a textile fibre must possess sufficient length, fineness, strength and flexibility to be suitable for manufacture into fabrics. The two basic forms of textile fibres are Filament and Staple. See also Fibre. An inclusive term for



965 Word



Category



Short description fibres, yarns, fabrics, and products



TEXTILE MODULUS



general



Deprecated term.



TEXTILE PROCESSING



processes, operations



Any mechanical process used to transform a textile fibre or yarn to a fabric or other textile material.



TEXTILE TECHNICIAN



general



A specialist knowledgeable in the technical details



TEXTILE TECHNOLOGIST



general



A scientist who applied precise knowledge



TEXTILE, NONCOMBUSTIBLE TEXTILIST



fabrics



TEXTURAL DESIGN



¡



See Non-combustible textile. A specialist in some phase of textiles. A great variety of design and texture effects which may be produced by weave combination of various materials and in pile fabrics



TEXTURE



fabrics



o



The surface appearance and hand



Description fibres, yarns, fabrics, and products, which keep relatively the same tensile strength, flexibility and properties of the original fibres. Deprecated term. See Young’s modulus. Any mechanical process used to transform a textile fibre or yarn to a fabric or other textile material. Included in these processes are: Opening, Carding, Combing, Spinning, Quilling, Slashing, Weaving, Knitting, etc. A specialist knowledgeable in the technical details of some particular phase of textile manufacturing. A scientist who applied precise knowledge to the development or direction of various phases of textile manufacturing. See Non-combustible textile. A specialist in some phase of textiles. A great variety of design and texture effects which may be produced by weave combination of various materials and in pile fabrics as distinguished from design produced by colour. See Textile design. The surface appearance and hand



966 Word



Category



Short description of a textile material;



TEXTURED FILAMENT



fibers, filaments, yarns



Multi- or monofilament yarn characterized by actual, or latent, filament crimps, coils or loops, with or without twist liveliness



TEXTURED GLASS YARN



v



A yarn processed from continuous filament yarn



TEXTURED PILE



z



TEXTURED YARN



v



See under Pile in carpet. A generic term for filament or spun yarns



TEXTURING



processes, Also called operations Texturising. A process by which synthetic thermoplastic yarns are imparted additional bulk, moderate stretch and texture.



Description of a textile material; may be described as: dull, lustrous, woolly, stiff, soft, fine, coarse, open or closely woven, etc. Texture is independent of the colour of the material. Multi- or mono-filament yarn characterized by actual, or latent, filament crimps, coils or loops, with or without twist liveliness, by which it has, or can develop by aftertreatment, bulk and/or stretch properties. A yarn processed from continuous filament yarn in such a manner to induce bulk to the yarn by disorientation of the filaments See under Pile in carpet. A generic term for filament or spun yarns that have been given notably greater apparent volume than conventional yarns of similar fibre or filament count and linear density. See Texturing. Also called Texturising. A process by which synthetic thermoplastic yarns are imparted additional bulk, moderate stretch and texture. A continuous filament yarn that has been processed to introduce durable crimps, coils, loops or other fine distortions along the lengths of the



967 Word



Category



Short description



Description filaments. Man-made fibres, in the form of continuous filaments, when twisted together to make smooth surfaced continuous filament yarns, could not compete effectively with spun yarns, particularly those made from natural fibres, because they did not have the same hairiness, bulk and warmth of handle, or high moisture absorbency which the spun yarns possess. The texturing process imparts, to the stronger continuous filament synthetics; those properties which were once associated only with staple yarns. The improved properties are developed by the permanent introduction of crimps, coils, loops and crinkles into the straight filament. The technique of texturing has added significance as the man-made fibre producers can now produce yarns more or less ready for weaving or knitting, without the additional processes of cutting up the extruded filaments and respinning the resulting staple on traditional textile machinery. Various techniques have been developed for bringing about these filament modifications, and



968 Word



Category



TEXTURISING TEXTURITY



¡ general



TEXTURIZED



I



TG (Tg)



o



THEATRICAL GAUZE



I



THERMAL BLANKET THERMAL BONDED BATTING



I vw



THERMAL CHARACTER



I



THERMAL CONDUCTANCE



o



THERMAL CONDUCTIVITY



o



Short description



Description some methods are more in common usage than others. See Texturing See Texturing A label placed on A label placed on material that is material that is guaranteed not to guaranteed not to shrink more than 2%. shrink more than 2%. An appealing textural An appealing textural surface due to the use surface due to the use of a textured yarn. of a textured yarn. See Glass-rubber See Glass-rubber transition transition temperature. temperature. A lightweight, plain A lightweight, plain weave, open textured weave, open textured cotton fabric with a cotton fabric with a stiff finish. It is available in stiff finish. many colours. Used for theatrical costumes, curtains. The fabric was originally woven with linen yarn and, because of its sheerness, was used in theatrical drops as an almost invisible ground for applied foliage. Also called ‘linen scrim’. See under Blanket See under Blanket A textile filling material A textile filling which contains lowmaterial which contains low-melting melting point fibres or polymers which, when point fibres or heated, fuse the batting polymers materials together Apparent difference in Apparent difference in temperature of the temperature of the fabric and the skin of fabric and the skin of the observer touching the observer touching it. See Hand of fabric. it. See Thermal See Thermal transmittance. transmittance. Time rate of Time rate of unidirectional heat unidirectional heat transfer per unit area transfer per unit area, in the steady-state,



969 Word



Category



THERMAL CONDUCTIVITY TESTER



F



THERMAL FABRICS



I



Short description



Description between parallel planes separated by unit distance, per unit difference of temperature of the planes. A laboratory device A laboratory device that measures the that measures the resistance of a fabric resistance of a fabric to to the flow of heat. the flow of heat. A cloth is a better insulator and thus warmer when it has lower thermal conductivity. Fabrics made with Fabrics made with fibres having ‘wicking’ fibres having ‘wicking’ property. property. Used mainly for the manufacture of thermal underwear, which when worn next to the skin, the skin is kept dry through the wicking action of the fibre, transferring body moisture into a more absorbent garment worn on top. Thermal fabrics are made of spun synthetic yarns (chlorofibre (polyvinyl chloride), polypropylene, polyester, etc.) which are soft, almost cottonlike in handle so that there is no question of a clammy fabric next to skin. Most thermal fabrics seem to rely on almost total lack of ‘moisture regain’ which helps to limit the thermal conductivity of the fibre. If the construction of the fabric provides a layer of still air over the body it will prevent the



970 Word



Category



Short description



THERMAL FINISHING



¡



The process of applying heat to textiles to impart desired functional and/or aesthetic characteristics.



THERMAL FIXATION



¡



THERMAL KNIT FABRIC



I



The use of dry heat to achieve a degree of permanence when applying colorants to textile material. A waffle-knit fabric of



Description entry of cold from the outside and the loss of heat from the body. The fabric construction and the garment layers play an important part in creating the necessary insulation properties. An additional factor is a negative electrostatic charge generated by chlorofibre which is regarded as therapeutic. It has been found to relieve pain and to help retain body warmth by producing a barrier of air which is electrostatic. It is reported by some European universities and hospitals that these tribo-electrical properties of polyvinyl chloride have very significant beneficial effects on pa-tients suffering from various conditions such as neuralgia, scitica and rheumatism. The process of applying heat to textiles to impart desired functional and/or aesthetic characteristics. Thermal finishing includes heat setting, hot embossing, etc., but excludes drying. The use of dry heat to achieve a degree of permanence when applying colorants to textile material. A waffle-knit fabric of



971 Word



Category



THERMAL PROTECTIVE PERFORMANCE (TPP) RATING THERMAL PROTECTIVE PERFORMANCE RATING THERMAL RESISTANCE



o



THERMAL RESISTIVITY



o



THERMAL TRANSMITTANCE



o



THERMAL WOVEN FABRIC



I



THERMALINE DYEING



I



THERMALLY-BONDED SEAM



o



THERMATION MACHINE



F



I o



Short description Description cotton, wool or man- cotton, wool or manmade fibre which has made fibre which has an insulating quality. an insulating quality. See Exposure energy See Exposure energy to thermal endpoint. to thermal endpoint. See Exposure energy to thermal endpoint. The reciprocal of thermal transmittance. The reciprocal of thermal conductivity. Time rate of unidirectional heat transfer per unit area, in the steady state, between parallel planes, per unit difference of temperature of the planes.



See Exposure energy to thermal endpoint. The reciprocal of thermal transmittance. The reciprocal of thermal conductivity. Time rate of unidirectional heat transfer per unit area, in the steady state, between parallel planes, per unit difference of temperature of the planes. Same as Thermal conductance and Heat Transfer coefficient. A porous fabric so A porous fabric so constructed that air constructed that air warmed by the body warmed by the body is trapped between the is trapped between yarns. Used for the yarns. blankets, winter underwear, the reverse sides of comforters. Solid-colour dyeing Solid-colour dyeing that that is applied to is applied to union union lustre wool lustre wool fabrics. fabrics. A seam formed by A seam formed by heat heat and pressure. and pressure. (Compare Glued seam, Sewn seam, Stapled seam.) An automatic quilting An automatic quilting machine machine capable of producing vinyl quilting in one step by sandwiching a layer of filling material between



972 Word



Category



Short description



THERMOFIX DYEING



¡



A dyeing process used extensively for continuous dyeing of materials made of polyester alone or when mixed with other fibres



THERMOFIXATION



¡



A dry heat process used for fixation of dyes on a fibre, e.g. fixation or reaction of fibre reactive dyes.



THERMOPLASTIC



general



Term applied to substances able to be repeatedly deformed



THERMOSETTING



general



Term applied to substances which harden when sufficient heat is applied



THERMOSOL METHOD



processes, operations



A method of dyeing man-made fibres, especially polyester and other thermoplastic fibres,



Description two layers of vinyl. A dyeing process used extensively for continuous dyeing of materials made of polyester alone or when mixed with other fibres; a process which makes effective use the property of sublimation, possessed by disperse dyes of low molecular weight A dry heat process used for fixation of dyes on a fibre, e.g. fixation or reaction of fibre reactive dyes. Sometimes applied to the thermosol process. Term applied to substances able to be repeatedly deformed by the application heat and pressure without any accompanying chemical change. Term applied to substances which harden when sufficient heat is applied and thereafter are practically infusible A method of dyeing man-made fibres, especially polyester and other thermoplastic fibres, by padding fabric with disperse dyes or selected vat pigments. Dry heat (390º C to 450º C for about one minute) is used to make dyes migrate or ‘move’ into and colour the fibres. So-called ‘solid solutions’ are formed in



973 Word



Category



THERMOSOLING



¡



THERMOSTATIC PROCESS



Short description



Fixation by dry heat or ‘baking’ processes, A heat-treating operations process used on nylon fabrics to improve hand of fabrics



THERMOVYL



v



A non-postchlorinated polyvinylchloride fibre of coarse staple.



THICK AND THIN



v



THICK AND THIN PLACES



t



Twisted strands of fibres of varying thickness used to obtain unusual effects in weaving. Fabric defect. See Thick place and Thin place.



THICK BAR



t



Fabric defect.



Description the fibre. Fixation by dry heat or ‘baking’ A heat-treating process used on nylon fabrics to improve hand of fabrics; dimensional stability; wrinkleresistance and crease resistance. A non-post-chlorinated polyvinylchloride fibre of coarse staple. It is pre-shrunk by heat treatment, which improves its heat stability and minimal strength at high extension. Twisted strands of fibres of varying thickness used to obtain unusual effects in weaving. Fabric defect. See Thick place and Thin place. 1. MAJOR FABRIC DEFECT. Places in the fabric where for 1 in. (25 mm) or more the count varies more than a specified percentage from the specified count. See also Thick place and Thin place. 2. MINOR FABRIC DEFECT. Places in the fabric where for less than 1 in. (25 mm) the count varies more than a specified percentage from the specified count. See also Thick place and Thin place. Fabric defect. An effect caused by two or more weft picks which give a



974 Word



Category



Short description



THICK FILLING THICK PICK THICK PLACE



t t t



See Coarse pick. See Coarse pick. YARN DEFECT. A place in the yarn characterized by a diameter greater than that of the adjoining segments and extending for 6 mm (¼ in.).



THICK STRIPES



t



Fabric defect. Stripes which are too thick in diameter and tend to throw off the general appearance of the fabric.



Description thick or bloated effect in the goods. Caused by improper setting of the cloth in the loom after a ‘start-up’, uneven tension and weights on the warp beam, not setting the pick-wheel correctly after stopping the loom, poor functioning of the take-up because of possible improper setting or tension, or skipping. See Coarse pick. See Coarse pick. 1. YARN DEFECT. A place in the yarn characterized by a diameter greater than that of the adjoining segments and extending for 6 mm (¼ in.). 2. FABRIC DEFECT. An unintentional change in fabric appearance characterized by a small area of more closely spaced yarns, or by a congregation of thick yarns as compared to the adjacent con-struction. See also Thin place and Thick and thin places. Fabric defect. Stripes which are too thick in diameter and tend to throw off the general appearance of the fabric. Caused by uneven yarn, incorrect drawing-in or reedingin of the warp threads,



975 Word



Category



Short description



THICKENING



³



In printing, any agent used to ‘stodge up’ the liquid colouringmatter



THICKNESS



general



In textiles, the distance between the upper and lower surfaces of the material



THICKNESS TESTER



F



THICKSET



I



A laboratory device that measures the thickness of yarns and fabrics under standard pressure. A strong corduroy with short, thick pile and twill back.



THIGH GIRTH



z



Garment-related term.



THIN BAR



t



Fabric defect. Occurs in the loom when two or more warp ends do not interlace with the weft yarn.



Description and incorrect yarn sizes. In printing, any agent used to ‘stodge up’ the liquid colouring-matter and to prevent its spread by capillarity to unwanted areas of the cloth. It is made of natural starches or gums or of artificial ones. In textiles, the distance between the upper and lower surfaces of the material, measured under a specified pressure. A laboratory device that measures the thickness of yarns and fabrics under standard pressure. A strong corduroy with short, thick pile and twill back. Woven with high filling count per square inch. Used for work clothing. The pile is so thickly set as to somewhat resemble a coarse velveteen. Garment-related term. See under Garment sizing system. Fabric defect. Occurs in the loom when two or more warp ends do not interlace with the weft yarn. May be caused by failure of the loom to stop or knockoff when a weft breaks or snaps, or by an irregular action of a harness frame. Thin bars may be interspersed



976 Word



Category



Short description



THIN END THIN FILLING



t t



See Fine end. Also called Fine filling, Fine pick, Light filling, Light pick, Thin pick.



THIN FILLING BAR THIN PICK THIN PLACE



t t t



See Fine filling bar. See Thin filling. YARN DEFECT. A place in the yarn characterized by a segment that is substantially (at least 25 %) smaller in diameter than the average diameter of the yarn.



Description throughout the width of the goods if a harness strap on a harness frame breaks or skips; gives a ‘flat’ in the warp direction of the cloth. May also be caused by a warp end becoming broken and causing the two ends on each side of where it should be weaving to weave sideby-side to produce a ‘flat’ in the vertical direction of the material. See Fine end. Also called Fine filling, Fine pick, Light filling, Light pick, Thin pick. Fabric defect in woven fabrics. A weft yarn smaller in diameter than normally being used in the fabric. See Fine filling bar. See Thin filling. 1. YARN DEFECT. A place in the yarn characterized by a segment that is substantially (at least 25 %) smaller in diameter than the average diameter of the yarn. 2. FABRIC DEFECT. An unintentional change in fabric appearance characterized by, a small area of loosely spaced yarns, often caused by the weft yarn breaking and the loom continues to run until the operator notices the problem, or



977 Word



Category



Short description



THIN SPOT THIN STRIPES



t t



See Crack mark Fabric defect. Linked with ‘thick stripes’



THIN-WALLED FIBRE



v



THIRD COMBING



v



THIRD GENERATION MANMADE FIBRES



v



See under Cotton maturity. The wool taken from the lower part of the back of the fleece. The phase of development is characterized by custom-tailoring fibres for specialized markets.



THISTLE THONG HOLE



o F



THORNPROOF TWEED



fabrics



Description a congregation of thin yarns as compared to the adjacent construction. See also Thick place and Thick and thin places. See Crack mark Fabric defect. Linked with ‘thick stripes’, these come from poor set-up of the pattern, faulty weaving, improper drawing-in or reeding-in of the warp yarns. See under Cotton maturity. The wool taken from the lower part of the back of the fleece. The phase of development is characterized by custom-tailoring fibres for specialized markets. The qualities of performance and aesthetics are now being built in to the fibres in the production stage. See Teazle. In zippers, the opening at the end of a pull.



See Teazle. In zippers, the opening at the end of a pull. Characteristic type of Characteristic type of tweed with Salt and tweed with Salt and pepper colouring pepper colouring styles. Normal woollen styles. yarns for tweeds are single yarns but thornproof tweed is made from two-fold twist yarns and the two yarns can be either contrasting or toning in



978 Word



Category



Short description



THREAD



fibers, filaments, yarns



The result of twisting together in one or more operations two or more single, folded or cabled yarns.



THREAD BREAK



THREAD COUNT



v



THREAD COUNTER THREAD FABRIC



F I



THREAD HOLDER



In sewn seams, a rupture of the sewing thread. The number of warp and weft threads in 1 square inch of fabric



See Counting glass. A strong, heavyweight, plain weave cotton fabric made with ply warp and single filling



apparatus, The device on which equipage, thread is wound tools



Description color. The standard weave is plain and the combination of this weave and series of twist colors in warp and weft gives the characteristic sprinkled color effect. The result of twisting together in one or more operations two or more single, folded or cabled yarns. The term thread is frequently used to describe single yarns, a product as used in sewing, also used in such expressions as (threads per unit length) irrespective of their nature In sewn seams, a rupture of the sewing thread. The number of warp and weft threads in 1 square inch of fabric before it being subjected to any kind of processing. See Counting glass. A strong, heavyweight, plain weave cotton fabric made with ply warp and single filling; picks are spaced far apart from each other. Once used as a foundation for rubber in tyres, but later supplanted by other cord fabrics. The device on which thread is wound so that it can be transported to, and run off smoothly at, the sewing operation. It may be in



979 Word



Category



Short description



THREAD MARKING



z



Temporary stitches to mark the fitting lines of a ‘bespoke’ garment.



THREAD OUT THREAD WASTE



t v



See End out. The waste left on bobbins or collected during spinning and weaving.



THREADY CLOTH



fabrics



THREE-LEAF TWILL



I



THREE-LEAF WARP TWILL



I



A fabric finished to show all the thread on the face. Simplest form of twill, repeating on three ends and three picks. Dyed or bleached, carded fabric made with a three-harness warp-faced twill.



THREE-PICK TERRY CLOTH



I



THREE-QUARTER GOODS



fabrics



THROAT PLATE



F



Two picks (filling) go under the pile loops and one pick goes between two rows of pile. In woollen industry, fabrics, which measure 27 inches (68.58 cm) or ½, yard (0.69 m), in width. In sewing machine, a platform in the



Description the form of a cone, spool, tube, or bobbin. 1. Temporary stitches to mark the fitting lines of a ‘bespoke’ garment. 2. Marking key positions such as pockets and darts of garments, by means of threads inserted through all the plies of a lay with a thread marking machine. See End out. The waste left on bobbins or collected during spinning and weaving. See also Thrum waste, and Spinners waste. A fabric finished to show all the thread on the face. Simplest form of twill, repeating on three ends and three picks. Dyed or bleached, carded fabric made with a three-harness warp-faced twill. It is lighter in weight than jeans or drills and is used in work shirts, pocketings and some linings. Two picks (filling) go under the pile loops and one pick goes between two rows of pile. In woollen industry, fabrics, which measure 27 inches (68.58 cm) or ½, yard (0.69 m), in width. In sewing machine, a platform in the stitching



980 Word



Category



Short description Description zone for supporting the stitching zone for work material being supporting the work material being sewn sewn with openings for with openings for the the needle and feed surfaces. Slots are cut needle and feed in the plate through surfaces. which the dogs protrude, holes are located for needle passage to the bobbin or loopers below the plate, and extensions of the plate are used for chaining fingers on the overlock and multithread chain stitch machines. Also called Needle plate. THROAT SEIZING z See Seizing. See Seizing. in zippers, the two THROATS w in zippers, the two openings in a slider openings in a slider that receive the that receive the stringers. stringers. THROUGH-AND-THROUGH fabrics A reversible wool A reversible wool fabric fabric with identical with identical face and face and back back. THROUGH-PRINTED fabrics sheer fabrics printed Sheer fabrics can be printed so that the so that the colors are well defined on both colors on the back of the cloth are about as sides well defined as those on the face, e.g. Discharge style printing. THROW z A removable, unfitted A removable, unfitted protective textile cover, protective textile used over upholstered cover, used over upholstered furniture. furniture. See Furniture covering THROWING fibers, Term, especially used Term, especially used filaments, in the silk and manin the silk and manyarns made fibre industries made fibre industries to describe the twisting or folding of continuous filament yarns from required number of filaments with required amount of twist for the



981 Word



Category



THROWN SILK



fibers, filaments, yarns I



THROWN SINGLES



THROWSTER THRUM



THRUM WASTE



THUNDER AND LIGHTNING TICK EFFECTS



TICKET NUMBER



Short description



Description fabric to be woven or knitted. Raw silk that has been twisted, or doubled and twisted. Raw silk, which after reeling is thrown, i.e. grouped and generally twisted into tram, organzine, ‘no-throw’ or twistless yarn, crêpe or sewing silk thread.



Raw silk that has been twisted, or doubled and twisted. Raw silk, which after reeling is thrown, i.e. grouped and generally twisted into tram, organzine, ‘nothrow’ or twistless yarn, crêpe or sewing silk thread. v #Error #Error 1. A term for fringe or o A term for fringe or short lengths of short lengths of materials which materials which suggest fringe. suggest fringe. Specifically, the end of warp which is not woven but remains on the loom when the woven fabric has been cut free. 2. A general term for soft, short threads, tufts, or fringe. In broader terms, any mass of hairs on an animal, or fibres or thread-like leaves of a plant which is similar to thrum fibers, The threads of The threads of wovenfilaments, woven-out warps cut out warps cut from yarns from warp beams. warp beams. This waste is often tightly twisted and must be reworked before it can be used again. I See Oxford grey. See Oxford grey. I



v



A term sometimes used for bird’s eye patterns, especially on worsted suiting. The tex number



A term sometimes used for bird’s eye patterns, especially on worsted suiting. The tex number



982 Word



Category



Short description Description assigned to a sewing assigned to a sewing thread to designate its thread to designate its approximate linear approximate linear density. density. TICKING I Very strong, closely Very strong, closely woven twill. woven twill. Stiff and can be recognized mainly by the narrow woven in stripes of any color along with white; can be plain also. Usually made of cotton, but sometimes linen is added. Though not very attractive fabric, used occasionally as a fashion fabric for women’s jackets and trousers. Its main use is as hardwearing covers for mattresses, and pillows. TIE CLOTH I Any soft or crisp fabric Any soft or crisp fabric suitable for men’s ties suitable for men’s ties or cravats or cravats, including Tie silk and faille, pongee, in twill weave, acetate, polyester or silk fibres. TIE INTERFACING SEW-IN I See under Sew-in See under Sew-in woven interfacing. woven interfacing. TIE SILK I A general term for silk A general term for silk fabric used for men’s fabric used for men’s neckties generally neckties generally made in narrow widths, made in narrow in a wide range of widths constructions, textures, colours, designs and qualities. TIE-DYEING processes, Also called Tie-andAlso called Tie-andoperations dyeing or Knot dyeing or Knot dyeing. dyeing. Hand dyeing method of producing patterns on fabric. Portions of the cloth are tied into a compact knot so that areas will not be penetrated and thus



983 Word



Category



TIE-STITCH



TIERING



TIGERING



Short description



A short stitch, leaving ends of thread several inches long which are then tied in a knot.



¡



In printing, the job of spreading the printpaste evenly over the woollen sieve.



processes, Removing the surplus operations strands of fibre



TIGHT END



t



Fabric defect in woven fabrics.



TIGHT FILLING TIGHT PICK



t t



See Tight pick. Also called Stretched filling, Tight filling. Fabric defect in woven fabrics.



TIGHT SELVEDGE



t



Also called Drawn selvage. Fabric defect in woven fabrics.



Description remain undyed, forming a pattern. A short stitch, leaving ends of thread several inches long which are then tied in a knot. Used mainly in millinery and occasionally in dressmaking In printing, the job of spreading the printpaste evenly over the woollen sieve. Same as Tearing. Removing the surplus strands of fibre from the surface of high-pile woven or knitted fabrics. Fabric defect in woven fabrics. A yarn which was woven under excessive tension or has shrunk more than a normal amount. See Tight pick. Also called Stretched filling, Tight filling. Fabric defect in woven fabrics. One or more picks woven under abnormally high tension producing a fabric condition appearing as a wavy, ruffled or puckered surface at the junction with normal picks. (Compare Wavy cloth.) Also called Drawn selvage. Fabric defect in woven fabrics. Selvedge yarns shorter than warp yarn in the body of the fabric. May be caused by the loom



984 Word



Category



Short description



TIGHT SPOT TIGHT TWIST END



t t



See Twit Also called Hard end, and Wiry end. Fabric defect



TIGHT WARP ENDS



t



Fabric defect. One or more ends which result from abnormal tension in the cloth



TIGHTNESS FACTOR



fabrics



Also called Cover factor. In knitting, a measure of the relationship between the loop length of a knitted fabric and the size/count of the yarn employed to construct it.



Description temples not holding the edge threads and the fabric to the proper width at the fell of the cloth as it is being woven; filling tensions being too high, too many ends in the reed splits or dents which cause cramming of the yarn, a weave construction that is too compact or tight and the yarn which is not suitable for the type of fabric desired. Tight selvedges are very difficult to remedy. See Twit Also called Hard end, and Wiry end. Fabric defect. A single end with higher than normal twist. Fabric defect. One or more ends which result from abnormal tension in the cloth and usually run for considerable length unless observed by the weaver. Sometimes difficult to detect as cloth is being woven. Also called Cover factor. In knitting, a measure of the relationship between the loop length of a knitted fabric and the size/count of the yarn employed to construct it. A range of fabric of differing loop size are considered to have related properties if the yarn size increases to maintain the same



985 Word



Category



Short description



TIME-TO-BREAK



o



The time interval during which a specimen is under prescribed conditions of tension



TIN WEIGHTING



¡



Building up weight of silk by use of tin salts



TINCTORIAL STRENGTH



³



TINSEL YARN



TINTING



TIP PRINTING



The effectiveness of a given mass of dye in coloring a given mass of material. fibers, A textile yarn or filaments, thread, combined, yarns coated, or covered with a shiny substance,



processes, Application of operations whitening agents for enhancing whiteness of textile goods. ¡ A combination of embossing and printing.



TIP-SHEARED PILE



z



TIPPED



I



TIPPY WOOL



v



See under Pile in carpet. A descriptive term for pile fabrics, usually plushes, with long pile



Wool in which the tip portions of the fibres



Description cover factor. The time interval during which a specimen is under prescribed conditions of tension and is absorbing the energy required to reach maximum load. Building up weight of silk by use of tin salts, especially used for white or light shades. The effectiveness of a given mass of dye in coloring a given mass of material. A textile yarn or thread, combined, coated, or covered with a shiny substance, often metallic, (e.g. aluminium, occasionally gold or silver), to produce a glittering or sparkling effect. See also Metallized yarn. Application of whitening agents for enhancing whiteness of textile goods. A combination of embossing and printing. The embossed section of the fabric is printed. See under Pile in carpet. A descriptive term for pile fabrics, usually plushes, with long pile, where the final dyeing process is applied only to the tips or cut ends, of the pile. Wool in which the tip portions of the fibres



986 Word



Category



TISSUE



fabrics



TISSUE TAFFETA



I



The finest, lightest taffeta



TITER



o



Weight per unit length of yarn.



TITRE NUMBER



Short description have been so damaged by weathering during growth as to have markedly different dyeing properties. Term used to describe a light transparent or translucent woven cloth in any fibre.



fibers, A generic term for filaments, units of linear density. yarns



TJANTING TJAP BLOCK



F



TO TAKE DRESS TOBACCO CLOTH



¡ I



TOBY PRINTING



processes, operations



#Error A wax printing block, made entirely of metal strips and are open at the back.



See under Dress. See under Cheesecloth. A method used in block printing



Description have been so damaged by weathering during growth as to have markedly different dyeing properties. Term used to describe a light transparent or translucent woven cloth in any fibre. Usually means one that has body and is not soft or floppy. The finest, lightest taffeta. It is almost transparent and normally only used for underwear or for lining fine garments 1. Weight per unit length of yarn. 2. Number of filaments in reeled silk thread. A generic term for units of linear density. The corresponding term for units of specific length is ‘count number’ #Error A wax printing block, made entirely of metal strips and are open at the back. It was introduced in Java to facilitate speedier production. See under Dress. See under Cheesecloth. A method used in block printing when the different colour areas of a design are clearly separated from each other; the colours are applied by means a divided sieve and are



987 Word



Category



Short description



TOE BLOCK



z



TOE CLOSING



¡



A reinforced toe section of a stocking. The closing of the toe opening in knitted hosiery.



TOILE



Iz



French for ‘fabric’.



TOILE DE JOUY TOM-TOM



¡ F



See Jouy print. Also known as Dolly.



TOMMY DOOD



F



TONE TONE-TO-TONE PRINT



TOP



A machine used for back-filling. o See Hue processes, A fabric printed in two operations tones of the same colour. v An indefinitely long assembly of staple fibres, substantially parallel and without twist, and capable of being drafted.



Description thus printed at the same time from one block. A reinforced toe section of a stocking. The closing of the toe opening in knitted hosiery. It may be closed in the knitting or it may be sewn closed. 1. French for ‘fabric’. 2. A trial garment that tests the shape, dimensions and finishes of the design and enables alterations to be made at an early stage. See Jouy print. Also known as Dolly. A machine in which lace, hosiery, or knitwear are subjected to the action of free-falling beaters while immersed in a detergent solution and carried in a moving trough. A machine used for back-filling. See Hue A fabric printed in two tones of the same colour. An indefinitely long assembly of staple fibres, substantially parallel and without twist, and capable of being drafted. The package of slivers that is the starting material for worsted and some other drawing systems. 1. TOP IN WORSTED PROCESSES: A sliver in which the fibres have



988 Word



Category



Short description



TOP AND BOTTOM FEED



F



In sewing machine, a feed mechanism comprising of a feeding foot working in unison with a drop feed.



TOP AND BOTTOM THREAD TRIMMER



F



TOP DYED



In sewing machine, a device fitted to it, which cuts the needle threads and underthreads after sewing. processes, Wool fibre dyed in the operations form of top



TOP SIDE



z



TOP STOP



w



Description been parallelized, and usually combed. See also Top in wool. 2. TOP IN MAN-MADE FIBRES OR TOW TO TOP PROCESS: A sliver obtained by drafting, along with breaking or cutting a multifilament tow. 3. TOP IN WOOL: A continuous untwisted strand of wool fibres from which the shorter fibres or no-ils have been removed by combing. In sewing machine, a feed mechanism comprising of a feeding foot working in unison with a drop feed. Also called Upper and under feed. In sewing machine, a device fitted to it, which cuts the needle threads and under-threads after sewing. Wool fibre dyed in the form of top and then processed in the coloured condition. In trousers, the front section extending from the trouser-bottom to the waist band and between the inside and side seams.



In trousers, the front section extending from the trouserbottom to the waist band and between the inside and side seams. In zippers, a part In zippers, a part affixed between or affixed between or immediately above immediately above the interlocking elements, the interlocking on either or both elements stringers, to prevent the slider from leaving the chain.



989 Word TOPHAM BOX



Category F



TOPPING



processes, operations



TOPSTITCHING



Short description See under Boxspinning. The application of further colourant



A line or lines of stitching that shows on the face side in the finished article



TORCHON LACE



I



Coarse lace made from cotton or linen thread, often with a shell design.



TORN SELVEDGES



t



Fabric defect.



TORN SIZE



o



TORQUE



o



The dimensions of a sheet or pillow case before hemming. A moment (of forces), which produces or tends to produce rotation or torsion.



Description See under Boxspinning. The application of further colourant not necessarily of the same hue or class to a dyed substrate in order to adjust the latter to the desired final colour. A line or lines of stitching that shows on the face side in the finished article, stitched at a uniform distance from a seam to reinforce it or for decoration, usually stitched while having the face side of the fabric up. Coarse lace made from cotton or linen thread, often with a shell design. Is inexpensive and not hardwearing, due to the fact that the threads are loosely twisted and it is quickly made. Used for mats and decorations on clothes. Fabric defect. Fabrics which are not presentable because of selvedge ends missing, uneven tying-in of broken ends, knots and slubs; often caused by generally poor work on the part of the weaver. The dimensions of a sheet or pillow case before hemming. A moment (of forces), which produces or tends to produce rotation or torsion. When used in



990 Word



Category



Short description



TORQUE YARN



v



A textured filament synthetic yarn made by imparting twist (torque) in the ‘S’ or ‘Z’ direction.



TORSION



o



The twisting of one end of a body with respect to the other.



TOTAL CLO



o



The intrinsic clo plus the thermal resistance from the air boundary.



TOTAL CROTCH LENGTH



z



Garment-related term.



TOTAL ELONGATION (TE)



z



TOTAL VERTICAL TRUNK LENGTH



z



In rope, the entire elongation when placed under a given strain. Garment-related term.



TOUCH AND CLOSE FASTENERS



w



Also called Hook and loop fasteners, Selffastening tape fasteners.



Description describing the performance or characteristic of a yarn, refers to that characteristic which tends to make it turn on itself as a result of twisting. 1. A textured filament synthetic yarn made by imparting twist (torque) in the ‘S’ or ‘Z’ direction. 2. A stretch yarn that, when permitted to hang freely, rotates in the direction of the unrelieved torque resulting from previous deformation. See also Non-torque yarn and Stretch yarn. The twisting of one end of a body with respect to the other. See also Residual torsion. The intrinsic clo plus the thermal resistance from the air boundary. See also Clo. Garment-related term. See under Garment sizing system. In rope, the entire elongation when placed under a given strain. Garment-related term. See under Garment sizing system. Also called Hook and loop fasteners, Selffastening tape fasteners. A fastener comprising two tapes, both being pile fabrics. The hook tape has a



991 Word



Category



Short description



TOUGHNESS



general



That property of a material by virtue of which it can absorb work



TOW



v



IN CONTINUOUS FILAMENTS. A large number of continuous filaments assembled without substantial twist, intended to be cut or stretch-broken for use in staple fibre form.



TOW BREAKING MACHINES



F



These machines break the tow by



Description pile made from polyamide or polyester monofilament with hook-shaped ends and the loop component has a pile or multifilament yarn. On presenting one to the other, the hooks engage in the loops, forming a secure closure that can be separated by a peeling action from either end That property of a material by virtue of which it can absorb work. There is, therefore, an overall decrease in length but an increase in bulk 1. IN CONTINUOUS FILAMENTS. A large number of continuous filaments assembled without substantial twist, intended to be cut or stretch-broken for use in staple fibre form. 2. IN FLAX. Any substantially clean fibre of less than scutched length. 3. IN BAST FIBRES, the short fibres removed by hacking. 4. IN MAN-MADE FIBRES, a twistless multifilament strand suitable for conversion into staple fibres or sliver, or for direct spinning into yarn. See also Spinning-4. These machines break the tow by stretching it,



992 Word



Category



Short description stretching it, until it gives way at the weaker places.



Description until it gives way at the weaker places. Different tensioning and spreading devices ensure that a regular sheet is fed into the machine. In the prestretching zone the material is brought close to its breaking point and then fed to the breaking zone. Here the stretching is continued until breaking occurs, and the tow is transformed into short pieces of staple. The material is then usually passed through a crimping-box to give the sliver more cohesion and to aerate it. Often the slivers are steamed to bring about shrinkage, and this can produce high-bulk material. The material is then usually passed through a crimping-box to give the sliver more cohesion and to aerate it. Often the slivers are steamed to bring about shrinkage, and this can produce high-bulk material. For the Turbo stapler, a machine of this type, the sequence of operations, may therefore be listed as 1. Tensioning, 2. Spreading, 3. Stretching, 4. Breaking, 5. Crimping, and 6. Collecting. The sliver will then be



993 Word



Category



TOW CUTTING MACHINES



F



Short description



Description processed to produce the spun yarn. The Two processes of cutting and breaking are quite different and therefore the products will vary. For example, the breaking resistance of the material will be increased by the stretch-breaking method, because the material will already have given way at its weakest point. After being cut by the converter the ends are crushed and this makes it more difficult for the fibres to slide over one another during spinning. There are also other variations such as the range of the fibre lengths ob-tained and the manufacturer, therefore, consider carefully the type of yarn he wishes to make, bear-ing in mind the materials to be processed, while deciding which method to use. However, one thing is certain; man-made staple fibres will be processed more and more on these machines, replacing the traditional operations of carding and combing. These machines are These machines are often known as often known as converters. converters. They are fed with a sheet, made up of several tows, and



994 Word



Category



Short description



Description this is cut by a helical blade. As the blade rotates it is strongly pressed against a smooth cylinder called an anvil. It is possible for the helical blade to cut obliquely across the tows; the ends of the fibres are not adjacent across the sheet and this is known as ‘bias cutting’. After cutting, the sheet of fibres is fed to a shuffling device, which staggers the cut fibres so as to obtain a sliver which is then collected in a can. The sequence of operations for this type of converter can be summarized as follows: 1. Tensioning, 2. Spreading, 3. Cutting, 4. Shuffling, 5. Crimping, and 6. Collecting. Another machine, which is versatile but also based on the principle of cutting, is the Pacific Con-verter. This can be used to produce high-bulk yarn. Some of the material is first passed through a heat-stretching zone, but some material bypasses this area and the final sliver is a mixture of two kinds of staple. That which has been heat-stretched will have a far greater shrinkage potential than the rest. Thus on steaming, relaxation of some of the staple



995 Word



Category



Short description



TOW-TO-TOP CONVERSOIN



¡



The process by which the tow is cut or broken to form staple and then drafted into a sliver as a continuous process.



Description takes place readily and the rest is bulked out. There is, therefore, an overall decrease in length but an increase in bulk. High-bulk spun yarn can be produced in this way from acrylic yarns. The process by which the tow is cut or broken to form staple and then drafted into a sliver as a continuous process. Man-made staple fibre is produced for spinning on the standard textile spinning machinery. For this purpose the tows of continuous threads from the spinnerets are cut into staple of the required length. In the tow, the fibres are in the form of regular filaments without any entanglement, but when converted into staple fibres these are packed into bales and they become entangled. The spinner then has to card and comb the mass of fibres in order to straighten them out again before a yarn can be produced. It would obviously be desirable to convert the rope of continuous filaments directly into a sliver of stapled fibres. Machines are available to do this and the tow is processed directly into the so-called



996 Word



TOWEL



TOWELING



Category



Short description



Description ‘combed’ tops. The process is, naturally, referred to as tow-totop conversion. The tow-to-top machines can be considered in two groups; those that produce the staple by cutting, and those which obtain the staple by stretch-breaking. It is important to be able to control the length of the staple produced and essential that the ends of the fibres in the sliver are staggered. In this way the sliver is held together and drafting can subsequently be carried out satisfactorily. If all the ends of the fibres were at the same point along the length of sliver, obviously it would not hold together and it would be almost impossible to handle the material. garments, An absorbent textile An absorbent textile made-ups, product used for product used for drying assemblies drying or wiping. or wiping. is made with loop pile on one or both sides generally covering the entire surface or forming stripes, checks, or other patterns. fabrics Any of several types Any of several types of of fabric intended for fabric intended for use use as towels; as towels; specifically, fabric woven in long pieces and then cut to the desired sizes, as distinguished from



997 Word



Category



Short description



TPP RATING



I



TRACEABILITY



o



See Thermal protective performance rating. The ability to trace the history, application or location of an item or activity



TRACING TRACK SUIT FABRIC



w I



TRACK SUIT JERSEY



I



Description cloth woven in towel lengths with borders or other decorations. Cotton or linen is generally used and the fabric is often relatively coarse in texture with low-twist yarns that are absorbent. tween processes or between mill and customer. See Thermal protective performance rating.



The ability to trace the history, application or location of an item or activity, or similar items or activities, by means of recorded identification. See Separation. See Separation. Synthetic knit with Synthetic knit with slightly sueded backing slightly sueded backing made from made from polyester or polyester or polyester polyester and cotton. Medium thickness, and and cotton. in plain bright colors, black and white. For track suits, anoraks, trousers, shorts, and for children’s clothes. Slightly open knit Slightly open knit fabric, soft and has fabric, soft and has fleecy back. fleecy back. Plain, often dull, colors usually with marled effect. Generally acrylic or polyester with viscose. Fabric is soft and comfortable. Loses shape and is not very hardwearing compared with the original, firmer track suit fabrics. Used for sports and leisure wear, including



998 Word



Category



Short description



TRADE MARK



o



A word, letter, device, or symbol used in connection with merchandise



TRADE NAME



o



A name given by a manufacturer or merchant to a product to distinguish it as one produced or sold by that manufacturer.



TRADITIONAL SELVEDGE TRAFFIC SURFACE



I I



See under Selvedge. The durability, abrasion and performance of the textile floor coverings.



TRAM



v



Raw silk yarns doubled and twisted with a low number of turns per inch



TRAMISTATIC



F



TRAMMAGE



t



A term to describe a loom with a stationary weft supply. Also called Uneven hand.



Description jumpsuits and children’s clothes. A word, letter, device, or symbol used in connection with merchandise and alluding distinctly to the origin or ownership of the product to which it is applied. A name given by a manufacturer or merchant to a product to distinguish it as one produced or sold by that manufacturer. It is called, more accurately; a trade mark name and may be protected as a trademark See under Selvedge. The durability, abrasion and performance of the textile floor coverings. The public walks on the surface of a rug or carpet so that these features can be discerned. Raw silk yarns doubled and twisted with a low number of turns per inch; generally used as weft. A term to describe a loom with a stationary weft supply. Also called Uneven hand. Fabric defect in crêpes. A puckered area in which a weft yarn has twist running in the same direction for several picks instead of alternating ‘S’ and ‘Z’ twist.



999 Word TRANSFER



Category ¡



TRANSFER PRINTING



¡



TRANSFER STITCH



¡



TRANSMISSION ROPE



z



TRANSPARENT VELVET



I



TRANSPORTATION FABRIC



I



Short description Description In textile processing, In textile processing, movement of a movement of a chemical, dye or chemical, dye or pigment between fibres pigment between within a substrate or fibres within a substrate or between between substrates. substrates. A textile-printing A textile-printing method method in which the pattern is printed on to a paper web and transferred by a process of sublimation (under heat and pressure) to fabrics mainly of man-made fibre. Transference of loops Transference of loops during the knitting during the knitting cycle cycle to form a hole or lace design or to create a structural change from rib to single knit and vice versa, or to shape a sweater. A rope made of six A rope made of six strands of seven wires strands of seven with a hemp center, wires with a hemp used for transmitting center power, as in driving line shafts. Lighter in weight than Lighter in weight than chiffon velvet, soft and chiffon velvet, soft and silky with good silky with good draping qualities. Made with a draping qualities. silk viscose or acetate backing and viscose or nylon pile. The fabric covering The fabric covering for for seats in buses, seats in buses, railway railway cars, cars, airplanes, and airplanes, and other other vehicles. vehicles. Specifications for this fabric include excellent resistance to abrasion, soiling, strain and light, and in some cases flammability.



1000 Word TRAPPED TWIST YARN



Category v



TRASH



vt



TRAVANCORE FLAX TRAVELLER



I F



TRAVERSE



vF



Short description Description Filament yarn Filament yarn textured textured by twisting by twisting two yarns two yarns around the around the same axis, same axis heat-setting and then untwisting to form two distinct textured yarns. 1. The non-fibrous The non-fibrous matter present in bales matter present in of raw cotton other bales of raw cotton other than abnormal than abnormal items, items, such as stone, such as stone, timber, timber, and pieces of and pieces of old iron, etc. The main old iron, etc. component of trash is chaff, dirt in the form of soil or sand and sometimes, foreign (unwanted) fibres such as lengths of sisal, jute, hemp, and grass. 2. Also called Mote trash. Defect, in cotton yarn and fabric. Undeveloped seed, motes, small bits of seed coat, or particles of leaf appearing as specks. TRASH CONTENT v The ratio of the mass of trash in a sample of raw cotton fibres to the total mass of the sample. The ratio is usually expressed as a percentage. Synonym for Sunn. Synonym for Sunn. The metal or plastic The metal or plastic component through component through which yarn passes on which yarn passes on its way to from the its way to from the ballooning eye to the ballooning eye to the package surface in package surface in ring spinning or twisting. It ring spinning or is mounted on a ring twisting. and is dragged round by the yarn. The distance moved 1. The distance moved



1001 Word



Category



TRAVERSE LENGTH



v



TREADLE LOOM



F



TREATED FABRIC



fabrics



TREBLE CLOTH



fabrics



TRELLIS WORK



¡



TRIACETATE



v



Short description by the yarn along the package during winding.



Description by the yarn along the package during winding. The movement of an end or ends parallel to the axis of rotation, which spaces the turns across the yarn package. See also Trav-erse length. 2. An adjective to describe a type of mechanism used in winding. The distance, parallel The distance, parallel to the axis of a yarn to the axis of a yarn package, between package, between points of reversal of points of reversal of the direction of traverse. the direction of traverse. A weaving machine A weaving machine activated by a treadle activated by a treadle connected to the main connected to the main shaft. shaft. A fabric to which a A fabric to which a finish has been finish has been applied applied in order to change the original level of a specific property or properties, e.g. water repellence, crease resistance, soil resistance. A layerd fabric made A layerd fabric made with three warps and with three warps and three fillings, together three fillings, together with a binder thread. with a binder thread. A stitching holds the layers in place. Used for industrial fabrics and overcoatings. Also called Triple cloth Embroidery similar to Embroidery similar to Roman cut work. Roman cut work. In trellis work, the floral figures climb over a trellis-like design Triacetate differs from Triacetate differs from



1002 Word



Category



Short description acetate in that, they have a crisper handle, resemble more truly the easy-care synthetics, absorb less water than acetate, are more stable, wash well and dry rapidly and lose less strength when wet.



TRIAXIAL LOOM



F



TRIAXIAL WEAVING



fabrics



A loom, which lays in yarn in three directions instead of the usual two. See Triaxial weaving. A weaving operation that goes one step beyond the conventional weaving



TRICEL



v



Trade name of a triacetate fibre, which is used on its own and mixed with other fibres to make a wide range of fabrics of varying types and weights, both woven and knitted.



TRICEL SUEDE



I



Soft, supple knit fabric with pile surface and sometimes also may be punched.



Description acetate in that, they have a crisper handle, resemble more truly the easy-care synthetics, absorb less water than acetate, are more stable, wash well and dry rapidly and lose less strength when wet. A heat treatment is employed on garments for durable pleating and creasing. See also Acetate. A loom, which lays in yarn in three directions instead of the usual two. See Triaxial weaving. A weaving operation that goes one step beyond the conventional weaving, by introducing a third end into the operation. Two sets of warp ends and one weft are interlocked at 60º angle. Trade name of a triacetate fibre, which is used on its own and mixed with other fibres to make a wide range of fabrics of varying types and weights, both woven and knitted. The fibre resists dirt, is fairly crease-resistant and is harder wearing than acetate although similar in appearance. Soft, supple knit fabric with pile surface and sometimes also may be punched. Used for a variety of fabrics sports



1003 Word



Category



Short description



TRICEL VELOUR



I



Tricel yarn knitted in combination with nylon or polyester results in a rich pile fabric that is soft and comfortable to wear.



TRICELON



v



Trade name for a blended yarn of tricel and nylon.



TRICHROMATIC SYSTEM



³



TRICOMPONENT FIBRE



fibers, filaments, yarns



See under Colour measurement. A fibre consisting of three polymers



TRICOT



fabrics



The most common, and the simplest, warp-knit fabric.



Description and leisure clothes. Tricel yarn knitted in combination with nylon or polyester results in a rich pile fabric that is soft and comfortable to wear. Fabrics dye well and therefore carry rich strong colors well and also black. Pale colors tend to look patchy but are very attractive. Used for jumpsuits, skirts, casual clothes, leisure wear and in heavier weight for drapes and furnishings. Trade name for a blended yarn of tricel and nylon. The combination of these two yarns produces a soft fabric with superb draping qualities. Fabrics made from Tricelon are generally lightweight and used for dresses, blouses and lingerie. Fabrics may be woven or knitted. Tricelon makes an ideal fabric for permanent pleating. See under Colour measurement. A fibre consisting of three polymers which are chemically different, physically different, or any combination of such differences. The most common, and the simplest, warpknit fabric. Lightweight, run-resistant, warp knit fabric characterized by vertical ribs or wales on



1004 Word



Category



TRICOT STITCH



TRICOT WARP-KNITTING MACHINE



F



TRICOTINE



I



TRILAM



I



Short description



Description the right side and slight crosswise ribs on the wrong side. The fabric has ‘give’ and is comfortable. Almost any fibre can be made into tricot, including silk, polyester, nylon and viscose. Used for underwear, nightwear and lining fabric. Also used in nylon for sheets, lightweight furnishings and plush fabric. A very simple A very simple crocheted needlework crocheted needlework in plain, straight pattern in plain, straight pattern A warp-knitting A warp-knitting machine generally machine generally using bearded or using bearded or compound needles compound needles mounted vertically, or mounted vertically, or nearly so, in which the nearly so, in which the fabric is supported fabric is supported and controlled by sinkers. and controlled by The fabric is removed sinkers. from the knitting point at approximately 90° to the needles’ movement (nearer the horizontal than the vertical). The name implies a The name implies a knit fabric, but it is in knit fabric, but it is in fact a twill-weave dress fact a twill-weave dress fabric woven as fabric woven as double twill, giving a pair of double twill, giving a pair of diagonal lines diagonal lines on the right side. May be on the right side. made from any fibre, including worsted, polyester, acrylic, viscose. A plain weave A plain weave laminated fabric, laminated fabric, made made from polyester from polyester scrim scrim coated with coated with polyester



1005 Word



TRILOBAL



TRIM TRIM PRESSING TRIMMINGS



TRIPLE CLOTH TRIPLE SHEER



TRIPLE VOILE TRISTIMULUS VALUES



TRIVINYL FIBRE



TROPICAL SUITING



Category



Short description Description polyester film, for use film, for use as sails. as sails. fibers, A fibre with a modified A fibre with a modified filaments, cross-section cross-section having yarns three lobes like a clover leaf. processes, To cut off a portion of To cut off a portion of a operations a textile material. textile material. ¡ See under Boarding. See under Boarding. w The comopnents of a The comopnents of a garment, other than garment, other than the main fabrics and the main fabrics and sewing threads. sewing threads. I See Treble cloth. See Treble cloth. I A tightly woven sheer A tightly woven sheer fabric with a fine, flat fabric with a fine, flat surface; almost surface; almost opaque. Both warp and opaque. weft yarns are usually given extra twist. Used for women’s dresses, blouses and evening wear. I See Ninon See Ninon ³ The amounts of three The amounts of three defined primaries defined primaries (usually blue, red, and green) required to be mixed additively to match the colour of the object, under defined conditions. fibers, A manufactured fibre A manufactured fibre filaments, from a synthetic from a synthetic yarns terpolymer of terpolymer of cyanoethane cyanoethane (acrylonitrile) (acrylonitrile), a chlorinated vinyl monomer and a third vinyl monomer, none of which represents as much as 50% of the total mass. I A light weight, plainA light weight, plainweave suiting for weave suiting for men’s men’s and women’s and women’s summer summer wear. wear. It has various



1006 Word



Category



Short description



TROPICAL WEIGHT



I



A yard of worsted suiting weighs from 198 to 312 grams



TROPICAL WORSTED



I



A plain or fancy weave worsted cloth, very light in weight and mainly in light colours, beige and white.



TROPUNTO



z



A type of quilting in which the design is outlined with single stitches



TROUGH TROUGHED SHED



F I



TROUSER



z



See Beck. In weaving, a warp shed in which two sheets that form the shed are under different tensions in order to improve cover. A two-legged outerwear garment, covering the body from the waist down to the ankles and is divided so as to make a separate covering for each leg.



Description weaves and is made of a variety of fibres. See also Tropical worsted. A yard of worsted suiting weighs from 198 to 312 grams. A lightweight fabric suitable for warm climates. A plain or fancy weave worsted cloth, very light in weight and mainly in light colours, beige and white. An excellent cloth for hot weather as the high-twist worsted yarn makes it cool. It pleats and creases well. Used for men’s suits, women’s suits, trousers, etc. A type of quilting in which the design is outlined with single stitches and padding is drawn from the back, filling each part of the design separately, giving a high relief effect. See Beck. In weaving, a warp shed in which two sheets that form the shed are under different tensions in order to improve cover. A two-legged outerwear garment, covering the body from the waist down to the ankles and is divided so as to make a separate covering for each leg. Trousers may be made up with pleats in the top side and



1007 Word



Category



Short description



TROUSER BINDING TROUSER BRAID



w w



See Kick tape. A flat, usually black, braided narrow fabric with closely interlaced threads at the sides and more open interlacing in the centre, having a core thread on each side of a more loosely constructed centre.



TRUE



v



The uniform diameter of wool fibres



TRUE BIAS



¡



TRUE DRAW RATIO TRUE HEMP TRUE SILK



TRUE STITCH



TRUNNIONS



TRUTH MARK



Description described as ‘pleated fronts’; otherwise they are known as ‘plain fronted trouser’. See Kick tape. A flat, usually black, braided narrow fabric with closely interlaced threads at the sides and more open interlacing in the centre, having a core thread on each side of a more loosely constructed centre. It is usually made of continuous filament yarn and used on formal dress. The uniform diameter of wool fibres. See also Untrue wool. See under Bias binding. See under Draw ratio. See under Hemp. Silk produced by the larvae of the moth Bombyx mori. Sewing with a threaded embroidery needle so that the ornamentation is the same on both sides of the fabric.



See under Bias binding. v See under Draw ratio. v See under Hemp. fibers, Silk produced by the filaments, larvae of the moth yarns Bombyx mori. ¡ Sewing with a threaded embroidery needle so that the ornamentation is the same on both sides of the fabric. In zippers, the two w In zippers, the two pivots at the end of pivots at the end of the the pull that fit into the pull that fit into the bail. bail. I An identification mark An identification mark applied close to the applied close to the ends of a piece of ends of a piece of fabric by various fabric by various means, such as means, such as weaving in a weaving in a contrasting colour of contrasting colour of yarn, using a marker yarn, using a marker



1008 Word



Category



TRY-ON



z



TUB SILK TUBE



I Fv



TUBE TWIST



v



TUBING



fabrics



TUBULAR FABRIC



I



TUBULAR WELT TUBULAR YARN



z v



Short description Description pen, punching a logo pen, punching a logo etc. etc. The purpose of the mark is to show that the piece has remained intact between processes or between mill and cus-tomer. The individual fitting The individual fitting of a garment for the of a garment for the purpose of confirming purpose of confirming the size, shape and the size, shape and fit, either before or after fit, either before or the garment is after the garment is completed. completed. Washable silk. Washable silk. A holder or bobbin of 1. A holder or bobbin of cylindrical shape used cylindrical shape used as a core for a yarn as a core for a yarn package of cylindrical package of cylindrical form. form. 2. A cylindrical yarn package formed by winding on a tube. The smooth plied yarn The smooth plied yarn that has been twisted that has been twisted through a compressor through a compressor; the yarn generally is composed of 8 or more single yarns, as distinguished from ring twist. Braided, knitted, or Braided, knitted, or woven fabric of woven fabric of cylindrical form cylindrical form having a width of 4 in. or more (circumference of 8 in or more). See Tubing. 1. See Tubing. 2. A knitted tubular fabric made on a circular knitting machine. Various kinds are used for underwear and hosiery. See under Welt. See under Welt. See under HollowSee under Hollowfilament yarn. filament yarn.



1009 Word TUCK



Category Short description Iz A lightweight fabric of cotton, silk or manmade fibre with pleats running from selvedge to sel-vedge



TUCK STITCH



A knitting stitch which produces tuck effects by having certain needles hold more than one stitch at a time.



TUCK-IN SELVEDGE TUCKED SEAM



I



See under Selvedge. A complex seam formed on the inside of the object with neither raw edge enclosed



TUCKING



¡



See also Fulling.



Description 1. A lightweight fabric of cotton, silk or manmade fibre with pleats running from selvedge to sel-vedge and formed with a separate warp and a weft usually heavier than that used for the ground weave. Used for shirts, bloused, etc. 2. In twisted or plaited rope, a free strand placed between the rope strands during splicing. A knitting stitch which produces tuck effects by having certain needles hold more than one stitch at a time. Used for underwear and outerwear fabrics. See under Selvedge. A complex seam formed on the inside of the object with neither raw edge enclosed, having one visible line of topstitching on the face side and a visible free folded edge (tuck). A tucked seam is made by the same steps as the lapped seam, except the topstitching is farther from the fold 6 to 10 mm. (Compare Lapped seam.) A type of fulling process in which the fabric is soaked, slowly heated to the boiling point, and then slowly cooled, heavily shrinking and thickening the cloth to and extent that the



1010 Word



TUMBLE DRYING



Category



Short description



processes, A process carried out operations on a textile article after washing



TURNBACK CHECKS



fabrics



A cotton fabric with small, woven coloured checks and solid coloured borders



TUSCAN



fibers, filaments, yarns



A fine yellow straw obtained from the tops of bleached wheat stalks in Tuscany, Italy.



TUSSAH SILK



fibers, Also known as Wild filaments, silk. A darker silk and yarns not easy to make white, so colors are usually cream and dyed colors



Description individual yarns are virtually imperceptible. See also Fulling. A process carried out on a textile article after washing, with the intention of removing residual water by treatment with hot air in a rotating drum. A method of drying fabrics or garments in hot air (up to 180º F) with air circulating through the articles for 30 to 40 minutes. Sometimes a tumbler with no heat also is used. This method is called ‘tumble cold’. A cotton fabric with small, woven coloured checks and solid coloured borders. Made with single yarns, with about 90 ends and 40 picks per square inch; yarn sizes being in the neighborhood of 20’s. A fine yellow straw obtained from the tops of bleached wheat stalks in Tuscany, Italy. Often woven in lacelike patterns Also known as Wild silk. A darker silk and not easy to make white, so colors are usually cream and dyed colors. Fabrics are thick and usually plain or hopsack weave. Some are like hessian in weight but softer. The yarn has an uneven slub, which



1011 Word



Category



TUSSORE



fabrics



TWEED



fabrics



Short description



Description gives it a rough texture to the cloth. Used for suits, dresses, skirts, and shirts. See also Wild silk. A fabric woven from A fabric woven from the coarse silk called the coarse silk called Tussah. Tussah. Fabric made from Fabric made from strong quality spun strong quality spun woollen yarns woollen yarns, somewhat coarse in terms of comparative yarn fineness and they are rather tough in handle; the wool qualities being selected for strength and resilience rather than softness. This term is now applied to fabric in a wide range of weights and qualities made from woollen yarns in various weaves and sophisticated colour effects. The one exception to the general description of tweed is the Shetland tweed, which is made from soft wool of the Shetland sheep which is plucked from the animal and not shorn. Tweeds are used for suitings and coatings and this full-handling resilient type of fabric tailors beautifully and wears very well. The roughness of the wool is sometimes too uncomfortable and in the past this has meant extra lining, which tends to add to the weight and cost.



1012 Word



Category



Short description



TWILL



fabrics



A type of weave, made by varying the order of interlacing the yarns



TWILL DIRECTION



fabrics



The direction of a twill is generally described as a fabric is viewed looking along the warp.



TWILL WEAVE



fabrics



One of the three basic types of weave, the other two being Plain weave and Satin weave.



Description However by the use of bonding techniques the scratchiness of tweed can be eliminated and the introduction of lighter-weight qualities has helped to overcome objections on heaviness. A type of weave, made by varying the order of interlacing the yarns, so that diagonal lines are produced and repeats over three or more ends and picks, on the face of the fabric. Any fibre can be woven in various types of twill weave. The direction of a twill is generally described as a fabric is viewed looking along the warp. ‘Twill right’ then refers to the diagonal running upwards to the right [&], and the ‘twill left’ to the diagonal moving upwards to the left [%]. By analogy with twist direction in yarns, an alternative method is to describe ‘twill right’ as ‘Z’ and ‘twill left’ as ‘S’. One of the three basic types of weave, the other two being Plain weave and Satin weave. Can be produced in a much greater numerical variety. These weaves all possess the twill characteristic, which is the presence of diagonal lines across the fabric. The twill



1013 Word



Category



TWIN FABRICS



fabrics



TWIST



TWIST ANGLE



TWIST BALANCE



TWIST LIVELINESS



Short description



Fabrics intended for use in combination. fibers, The helical filaments, configuration of fibres yarns or filaments in a yarn.



Description effect is produced by the stepping one yarn space to the right of each successive weft yarn interlacings (warp interlacings, being equal, also move similarly). This movement enables yarns to be closed up effectively to make a compact but supple fabric, but as in the case of hopsack looseness begins to show if interlacings are increased much more than 3 yarns. Fabrics intended for use in combination. The helical configuration of fibres or filaments in a yarn. The number of turns about its axis per unit of length observed in a yarn or other textile strand. This is generally indicated as T.P.I. (turns per inch) or T.P.M (turns per metre). It is also measured by helix angle in a structure of known diameter. The angle between the path of a yarn element and the yarn axis



fibers, The angle between filaments, the path of a yarn yarns element and the yarn axis fibers, In corded In corded filaments, constructions constructions. The yarns relationship of primary and final twist to each other and to the cord size such, that residual torsional effects are nullified. fibers, The tendency of a The tendency of a yarn



1014 Word



Category Short description filaments, yarn to twist or untwist yarns spontaneously.



TWIST SETTING



processes, A technique for fixing operations (setting)



TWISTLESS SPINNING



processes, operations



A system of yarn formation that relies on the use of a permanent or temporary adhesive to bond fibres together.



TWISTLESS YARN



fibers, filaments, yarns



A yarn prepared without twist in order to obtain special properties



Description to twist or untwist spontaneously. Snarling of yarns during processing and spirality in knitted fabrics are examples of effects, which may be caused by twist liveliness. The direction of twist liveliness or torque, S or Z, is that of the twist change which takes place spontaneously when an end of yarn or hanging loop is allowed to rotate. A technique for fixing (setting) to prevent snarling and kinking in the yarn. A system of yarn formation that relies on the use of a permanent or temporary adhesive to bond fibres together. Where a temporary adhesive is used it is removed during fabric finishing, and the yarn (and fabric) strength is then obtained through lateral pressure produced by the interlacings in the fabric. A similar fabric construction can be achieved by using wrap spun yarns, which have been produced with a soluble binder. See also Spinning A yarn prepared without twist in order to obtain special properties, e.g. increased softness and dyeability.



1015 Word TWO-AND-TWO CHECK



Category fabrics



TWO-FOR-ONE TWISTING processes, operations



TWO-STAGE TWISTING



processes, operations



TWO-WAY STRETCH YARNS



fibers, filaments,



Short description Description A check pattern A check pattern formed formed by arranging by arranging both warp both warp and weft and weft with two threads of one colour alternating with two threads of another colour or white. The same colours are used in the weft. Plain weave is used. A system, which A system, which inserts inserts two turns of two turns of twist for twist for each each revolution of a revolution of a twisting twisting element. This element. is achieved by inserting one turn of twist between a stationary feed package and rotating disc and a further turn between the latter and a balloon guide. If doubling is involved, either a single assembly-wound package or two separate single-wound packages may be used as the supply. When the single-wound packages are joined together, the system is called Clip-cone twofor-one twisting. Also called Stage Also called Stage twisting. A system of twisting. A system of producing yarn which producing yarn which consists of two stages: consists of two (i) inserting a low level stages: of twist into a yarn or yarns by ring twisting, and (ii) taking the product of (i) and uptwisting to insert the desired amount of twist. Also called Stage twisting. A system of



1016 Word



Category yarns



TYRE TEXTILES



TYRE YARN



Short description



Description producing yarn which consists of two stages: (i) inserting a low level of twist into a yarn or yarns by ring twisting, and (ii) taking the product of (i) and uptwisting to insert the desired amount of twist. Textured yarn in a woven fabric provides increased bulk and comfort because both warps and fillings are textured-stretch. general Textile materials that Textile materials that are used in the are used in the manufacture of rubber manufacture of rubber tyres. tyres. fibers, Yarn that is used in Yarn that is used in the filaments, the manufacture of manufacture of the yarns the textile carcase of textile carcase of rubber tyres. rubber tyres.



U Word ULTIMATE FIBRES



ULTRAVIOLET RADIATION



UMBRELLA FABRICS



Short Description description fibers, The most The most minute units of matter that can filaments, minute units of be separated from an organic structure yarns matter that can without ruining the structure. be separated from an organic structure general Radiant energy Radiant energy for which the wavelengths of the monochromatic components are smaller than those for visible radiation and more than about 100 mm fabrics A wide range of A wide range of closely woven fabrics closely woven with tape selvedge, used for covering fabrics with umbrellas. Silk, cotton, man-made fibres tape selvedge, and combinations of these are mainly used. The material is generally given a used for water-repellent finish. A very popular covering



Category



1017



Word



Category



UNBALANCED YARNS



fibers, filaments, yarns



UNBLEACHED



fabrics



UNDERLAP



processes, operations, fabrics



UNDERLAY



accessories



UNDERPICK LOOM



apparatus, equipage, tools



UNDRESSED FINISH



fabrics



UNDYED



fibers, filaments, yarns, fabrics defects



UNEVEN SHRINKAGE



Short description umbrellas



Description



type is Gloria. Plastic film and coated fabric are also used. In silk and manmade fibre fabrics, taffeta is the most important, although novelty weaves and satin effects are often employed. The tape selvedge is generally made with a novelty weave, rib or satin stripe. Yarns in which Yarns in which there is sufficient twist to set up a torque effect, so that the yarn there is sufficient twist will untwist and re-twist in the opposite direction. to set up a torque effect In the grey, or In the grey, or loom state loom state lateral 1. In warp-knitting, lateral movements of movements of the guide bar made on the side of the the guide bar needle remote from the hook or beard; the amount of this movement is limited only by mechanical considerations. See also Lapping movement. 2. In a warp-knitted fabric, the connection between stitches in consecutive courses. A cushion or padding material used A cushion or under rugs or carpets to give greater padding resiliency and longer service. material used under rugs or carpets A loom in A loom in which the picking stick is which the vertical and under the level of the shuttle picking stick is box. vertical A napped A napped surface on woollen or worsted surface on fabrics that is so thick it shows the woollen or weave only in some places. Semiworsted fabrics finished goods have about half as much nap as undressed-finish fabrics and therefore the former fabrics show shine quicker than do the latter. In the natural In the natural colour state; yarn and colour state; fabric. yarn and fabric. Fabric defect.



Fabric defect. A bowed, ballooned or wavy, warpwise condition in the cloth, which prevents it from lying flat on a



1018



Word



Category



UNEVENNESS



general



UNFINISHED



fabrics



UNGUMMED SILK



fibers, filaments, yarns



UNICOLOURRED



general



UNION COLOUR



fabrics



UNION DYEING processes, operations



UNION FABRIC



fabrics



UNION YARN



fibers, filaments, yarns



UNLEVELNESS



defects



UNROVING



processes, operations



Short description



Description



horizontal surface. Usually caused by some error during the finishing of the goods. variation in the In textiles, variation in the linear density of a continuous strand of a strand. linear density of a continuous strand Fabric in the Fabric in the loom state loom state A silk from A silk from which the sericin or gum has which the been removed sericin or gum has been removed Material dyed Material dyed in one colour. in one colour. A colour of a A colour of a blended fabric in which two blended fabric or more classes of fibres with different dyeing properties are dyed (coloured to the same shade) A process of A process of dyeing textiles containing dyeing textiles fibres having different dye affinities to achieve the appearance of a uniform, homogenous color. See also Crossdyeing A fabric made The term can mean two things. 1. A of the union of fabric made of the union of two fibres two fibres e.g. cotton and worsted. 2. A striped fabric made of two fibres and then dyed; the fibres taking the dye differently and hence producing a colored stripe. A yarn made A yarn made by twisting together yarns of different fibres. by twisting together yarns of different fibres. the nonuniform In dyeing and finishing, the nonuniform distribution of a distribution of a dye or chemical in or on dye or a substrate. (Compare Levelling and chemical Shading.) The pulling out The pulling out of a row of knitting or seam stitching by disconnecting the of a row of constituent loops in a chain reaction. All knitting or seam stitching weft knitted constructions will unrove from the end last knitted and all chain



1019



Word



UNWEAVING



UPLAND COTTON



UPTWISTING



URENA



Category



Short description



processes, The act of operations removing weft threads to correct weaving faults



fibers, filaments, yarns



A type of cotton, ‘gossypium hirsutum’,



processes, A system of operations twisting one or more yarns



fibers, filaments, yarns



A bast fibre similar to jute, from the plant ‘urena lobata’.



Description stitch seams will unrove from the end last formed. The act of removing weft threads to correct weaving faults (picking-out) and subsequent resetting of the fell to correct position (pulling-back) before the weaving machine is restarted. The terms ‘pulling-back’ and ‘picking-out’ may also be used to describe the whole operation. A type of cotton, ‘gossypium hirsutum’, which forms the bulk of the world’s cotton crop. It varies in staple length from about 22 mm to about 32 mm. One of the three main types of cotton grown in the U.S., the other two being Sea Island cotton and American-Egyptian cotton. A system of twisting one or more yarns by withdrawing them over-end from a rotating package. If more than one yarn is to be twisted, the yarns are first assembly-wound on to a single uptwister supply package. Uptwisting forms the second stage in two-stage twisting. A bast fibre similar to jute, from the plant ‘urena lobata’.



V Word VALUE OF COLOUR VANE



VANISHING STRIPES



Category general



Short description Description The luminosity or The luminosity or lightness or lightness or darkness darkness of a colour. of a colour. In feathers, the section that consists fibers, In feathers, the filaments, section that consists of a solid, stiff collection of barbs, as distinguished from the section near yarns of a solid, stiff the quill point that has soft, fluffy collection of barbs, barbs. fabrics Woven broken-stripe Woven broken-stripe patterns in patterns which the coloured yarns appear alternately on the face of and back of



1020 Word



Category



VARIGATED YARN



fibers, filaments, yarns ³



VAT DYES



VEGETABLE DYE



³



VEGETABLE FIBRES



fibers, filaments, yarns



VEGETABLE SILK



fibers, filaments, yarns



VEILING



fabrics



VEINING



processes, operations



VELLUM



fabrics



Short description



Description the fabric. A multicoloured yarn commonly produced by printing.



A multicoloured yarn commonly produced by printing. These are water-insoluble dyes, These are waterusually containing keto groups, which insoluble dyes, usually containing are normally applied to the fibre from an alkaline aqueous solution of the keto groups reduced enol (leuco) form, which is subsequently oxidized in the fibre to the insoluble form. Considered to be the most resistant dyes to both washing and sunlight. Vat dyes are suitable for cotton, linen, viscose rayon, and cuprammonium rayon fibres, suitable for wool, and silk fibres, but the usage is now declining and not suitable for cellulose triacetate fibres, except in fibre blends. A class of natural A class of natural dyes such as dyes madder, indigo, which are obtained from vegetable matter. Roots, bark, berries, etc. are the source of some of the oldest known dyes. Fibres of vegetable Fibres of vegetable origin. They are origin. composed mainly of cellulose, and number in the hundreds, e.g. cotton, linen, Sisal, Coir, etc. A lustrous seed hair A lustrous seed hair obtained from the seed pods of many species of plants and trees. Common commercial varieties are kapok and milkweed fibre. A large variety of A large variety of gauze-like materials gauze-like materials used for veils, usually net, made from used for veils, silk, acetate, viscose, nylon. May be woven, netted, knit or produced like lace. Styles are plain, embroidered or ornamented with elaborate patterns. A striped gauze effect A striped gauze effect in a fabric in a fabric produced by omitting one or more ends in the weave. A fine, very 1. A fine, very transparent cotton transparent cotton fabric used as a tracing cloth. 2. A fabric print cloth orsheeting fabric, piece dyed before it is milled it is glazed on



1021 Word



Category



Short description



VELOUR FINISH



processes, operations



VELOURS



fabrics



A napped finish applied to woollen fabric Loosely applied to all types of fabric with nap or cut pile on one side



VELVET



fabrics



A warp pile fabric, made with two warps, a ground warp and a pile warp



VELVETEEN



fabrics



weft pile cotton fabric made to resemble velvet.



VENETIAN



fabrics



Highly lustrous twill cloth originally made in Venice from silk.



VENITIAN FINISH



processes, operations



Also called Roller finish



Description both sides and embossed. A napped finish applied to woollen fabric, producing a dense, erect and even nap resembling velvet Loosely applied to all types of fabric with nap or cut pile on one side, specifically, a cut pile cotton fabric similar to cotton velvet but with a thicker pile. A warp pile fabric, made with two warps, a ground warp and a pile warp. A special weave construction causes loops to be formed in the pile warp which stand upright and which can then be cut. The cut ends of the pile yarn form the fabric surface. It is woven with a warp pile and an additional yarn. In production, wires are inserted to lift this yarn and then, when withdrawn, there are loops, which are cut or not according to the type of velvet being made. The backing fabric, formed by the ground warp and the weft, holds the loops in place. Velvet can be woven perfectly plain or a figured design can be produced by forming pile patterns on a flat ground, or by a contrast of cut and uncut loops, or different heights of pile. In Panné velvet, a design is produced by embossing or crushing a lustrous pile in different directions. Very often this name is given to velvet made from cotton, but strictly speaking it refers to a weft pile cotton fabric made to resemble velvet. Highly lustrous twill cloth originally made in Venice from silk. When made in satin weave from wool, it is the fabric worn by pilgrims to the Middle East. Venetian for men’s suiting is made from worsted yarn, but women’s clothes can be made from synthetic varieties, usually polyester. Expensive in any fibre. Use usually confined to suits, skirts, trousers. Also called Roller finish. A process in which rollers engraved with fine



1022 Word VESTING



Category fabrics



Short description Any fabric used for vests



VICTORIA SILK



fabrics



A petticoat fabric of silk-and-wool which is guaranteed not to rustle.



VICUÑA FINISH



processes, operations



A finishing process for worsted fabric



VINAL



fibers, A manufactured fibre filaments, yarns



VINYLAL FIBRE



fibers, filaments, yarns



A range of manufactured fibres



VINYON



fibers, A manufactured fibre filaments, yarns



VIRGIN FIBRE



fibers, filaments,



The terms ‘virgin’ or ‘new’ as descriptive



Description Any fabric used for vests, especially heavyweight fancy silks or combinations of silk and wool or cotton. This term covers a wide variety of cloths used for men’s fancy vests and other dress purposes, including bedford cord, piqué and a variety of fabrics with wovendobby figures, produced by extra warp or weft, Jacquard weaves, etc. A petticoat fabric of silk-and-wool which is guaranteed not to rustle. VICUÑA I This is the finest, softeset and most rare animal hair and makes the most expensive and luxurious cloth there is. It is produced by the vicuña, the smallest lama species, which lives wild at very high altitudes in the Ades mountains mainly in Peru; the animal is threatened with extinction. A finishing process for worsted fabric, which gives it the appearance of vicuna fabric. The surface of the cloth is napped while damp and then fully shrunk, producing a fine, short, erect nap, totally obscuring the weave and yarns. A manufactured fibre in which the fibre-forming substance is any long chain synthetic polymer composed of at least 50 % by weight of vinyl alcohol units and in which the total of the vinyl alcohol units and any one or more of the various acetal units is at least 85% by weight of the fibre. A range of manufactured fibres composed of synthetic linear macromolecules of polyethenol (polyvinyl alcohol) of differing levels of acetalization. A manufactured fibre in which the fibre-forming substance is any long chain synthetic polymer composed of at least 85 % by weight of vinyl chloride units. The terms ‘virgin’ or ‘new’ as descriptive of any fibre or part thereof,



1023 Word



Category yarns



Short description of any fibre



VISCOSE FIBRE



fibers, filaments, yarns



One of the earliest types of artificial silk



VISIBLE LIGHT



general



Visible light is only a small section of a much broader band of electromagnetic radiation



VIYELLA



fabrics



Trade name describing an old, established, classic fabric.



VOILE



fabrics



A light, fine sheer



Description shall not be used when the product or part so described is not composed wholly of new or virgin fibre which has never been reclaimed from any spun, woven, knitted, felted, braided, bonded, or otherwise manufactured or used product. One of the earliest types of artificial silk. Regenerated cellulose fibre obtained by the ‘viscose process’ for filament and discontinuous fibre. The name viscose was derived from the word ‘viscous’ referring to the sticky spinning solution, looking like clear honey. The name ‘rayon’ was the first generic term devised to replace ‘artificial silk’ but is now has almost gone out of use, being replaced by ‘viscose’. Light is a form of electromagnetic radiation. Visible light is only a small section of a much broader band of electromagnetic radiation travelling as a wave motion. The electromagnetic spectrum covers wavelengths from 10-5 nm (cosmic rays) to wavelengths greater than 109 nm (radio waves). Within this spectrum the only visible radiation is that within the wave length range between 380 nm (ultra-violet) and 780 nm (red), each wavelength representing a different hue. Trade name describing an old, established, classic fabric. However at times the name Viyella is generically used. The fabric still has the same composition as original, i.e. 55 % lamb’s wool and 45 % cotton, and it is a fine, soft, twill weave material. Was first produced in 1893 in UK, and for a long time was used almost exclusively for children’s clothes, babywear and nightwear. Later, it became a popular fabric for blouses and shirts. Now, mostly due to improved designs, it is used for top fashion clothes. A light, fine sheer fabric originally



1024 Word



Category



Short description Description fabric originally made made from hard (high) twisted from hard (high) combed cotton yarns in plain weave twisted combed which give a crisp handle to the cotton yarns in plain fabric. Can be produced on plain, weave striped or printed styles. Used for blouses and dresses. Can also be made in man-made fibres. Cotton and also polyester with cotton, produces a soft, comfortable, fabric used for blouses, dresses, children’s clothes and sometimes for men’s shirts. Voile is also made from silk. Wool voile is referred to as Challis. VOILE YARN fibers, A special hard twist A special hard twist yarn used for filaments, yarn used for voile voile fabrics. The twist varies, but is yarns fabrics. more than regular twist and less than crêpe twist. Cotton voile yarns are both single and two-ply, generally 1/50’s and 1/100’s, respectively. The two-ply twist is given in the same direction as the twist in the single yarn. VOILETTE fabrics A machine made A machine made French lace with French lace with powdered dots or fine trailing line powdered dots or fine designs on very fine mesh ground, trailing line designs embroidered along the edge with a light floral pattern. VULCANIZED fibers, A cotton cellulose A cotton cellulose material, layers of FIBRE filaments, material, layers of which are bonded by chemical yarns which are bonded by treatment, thus producing a laminated chemical treatment, plastic. Depending upon the end use for which it is produced, this laminate can be hard or soft. Its plastic properties permit it to be formed, bent or drawn into intricate shapes without sacrificing strength. In textiles, used for shuttles, in looms and bobbins.



W Word WADDED CLOTH



Category fabrics



Short description Description Fabric made with Fabric made with heavy extra heavy extra warp or warp or weft yarns, arranged to lie weft yarns, between the face and back of the cloth to add weight and bulk or pad the fabric



1025 Word WAFFLE WEAVE



Category fabrics



Short description Square or oblongshaped box formation



WALE



fabrics



In knitted fabrics, an intermeshed row of loops along the length of a weft knitted fabric



WALE SHAPING processes, operations



Two and three dimensional shaping of knitted fabric



WALL



fibers, filaments, yarns



In cotton fibre, the solid portion of the cotton fibre,



WARP



fabrics



The longitudinal yarns in a woven fabric.



WARP KNITTING



processes, operations



Making fabric by a method in which the loops made from each warp thread are formed mainly along the length of the fabric



WARP PRINT



processes, operations



Warp yarns are printed with the design before weaving.



WARP SHED



apparatus, The opening through equipage, which weft is inserted



Description Square or oblong-shaped box formations appear on both the face and back of the fabric, by allowing both warp and weft yarns to float at fixed intervals. In knitted fabrics, an intermeshed row of loops along the length of a weft knitted fabric. A column of loops in successive courses that is parallel with the loop axes. In machine knitting it is the product of one needle. Two and three dimensional shaping of knitted fabric achieved by the movement of wales, which are both terminated and introduced to a pre-determined plan. In cotton fibre, the solid portion of the cotton fibre, divided into two parts; a thin skin on the surface of the fibre, called ‘primary wall’ and the main part of the solid part of the fibre composed of layers of cellulose, called ‘secondary wall’ The longitudinal yarns in a woven fabric. Yarn intended for use or used in the warp of a woven fabric. A number of threads arranged in longitudinal and horizontal direction are bound together by formation of stitches. Making fabric by a method in which the loops made from each warp thread are formed mainly along the length of the fabric. Manufactured on Tricot and Raschel knitting machines. See also under Knitting. Warp yarns are printed with the design before weaving. Weft yarns are either white or neutral colour, so that a greyed effect is produced. The opening through which weft is inserted in a loom.



1026 Word



Category tools WARP SHEET fibers, filaments, yarns WARP YARN fibers, filaments, yarns WARP- SATEEN fabrics



WARP-FACED FABRICS WARPING



fabrics



Fabrics with more ends on the face than picks processes, The production of a operations sheet of parallel yarn



WASH



processes, operations



WASH GOODS



general



WASH-ANDWEAR



WASHABLE



Short description in a loom. A multitude of warp yarns parallel to each other. Yarn intended for use or used in warp of a woven fabric A warp-faced sateen, made with a considerably greater number of ends than picks per inch.



Any cleansing operation done in water or water containing detergents, alkalis or builders



Description A multitude of warp yarns parallel to each other. Yarn intended for use or used in warp of a woven fabric A warp-faced sateen, made with a considerably greater number of ends than picks per inch. Generally stronger than filling sateen. Used mainly as base cloth for coated fabrics, pillow and mattress ticking and comforter covering. Fabrics with more ends on the face than picks, the face formed by the warp yarns. The production of a sheet of parallel yarn in substantial long lengths and evenly spaced, by winding of warp yarns from packages onto a warp beam Any cleansing operation done in water or water containing detergents, alkalis or builders. A typical wash cycle consists of soaking, washing, spin drying, and rinsing. In latest automatic washing machines, load capacity, bath temperature and cycle timings, etc. are electronically controlled. Launderable textile fabrics, manufactured textile items or garments



Launderable textile fabrics, manufactured textile items or garments garments, A generic term A generic term applied to made-ups, applied to garments garments which satisfactorily assemblies which satisfactorily retain their original neat retain their original appearance after repeated wear neat appearance and suitable home laundering with little or no pressing or ironing. fabrics, Fabrics or garments Fabrics or garments which may be garments, which may be washed without damage to color made-ups, washed without or shrinkage. Generally need assemblies damage to color or qualification on the basis of



1027 Word



Category



Short description shrinkage.



WASHING



processes, operations



Treatment designed to clean textile articles in an aqueous bath.



WASHING-OFF processes, operations



Treatment of textile material in water or detergent solution



WASTE FACTOR



general



In garment manufacturing, the amount of material left when garment portions are cut



WASTE SILK



fibers, filaments, yarns



The short, unreeled filaments that are left after the long cocoon filaments have been removed.



WATER HARDNESS



general



Hardness of water is expressed in ‘degrees’ indicating number of parts of calcium or magnesium salts in terms of calcium carbonate present in



Description laboratory tests as to the type of washing the material will withstand: hand, home machine, laundering, as well as temperature. Treatment designed to clean textile articles in an aqueous bath. Washing includes all or some of the following operations in relevant combinations: Soaking, pre-washing and proper washing (carried out usually with heating, mechanical action and in the presence of detergents or other products) and rinsing. Water extraction, i.e. spinning or wringing performed during and/or at the end of the operations mentioned above. These operations may be carried out by machine or hand Treatment of textile material in water or detergent solution to remove substances employed in previous process In garment manufacturing, the amount of material left when garment portions are cut from piece goods, knitted blanks or shaped garment portions. The waste isexpressed as a percentage of the weight of the original fabric. The short, unreeled filaments that are left after the long cocoon filaments have been removed. These short noils are carded, sometimes combed also and used for manufacturing of spun silk yarn. In ordinary water, salts of calcium and magnesium are commonly present in three forms, viz. (i) bicarbonates, (ii) sulphates, and (iii) chlorides. Bicarbonates produce ‘temporary hardness’, whereas sulphates and chlorides produce ‘permanent hardness’.



1028 Word



Category



WATER RETENTION



fibers, filaments, yarns ³



WATER SOFTENER



WATER SPOTTING



processes, operations



WATERPROOFING



fabrics



WATERREPELLENT



fabrics



WATERRESISTANT



fabrics



WATT SILK



fibers, filaments, yarns



WAVE TWILL



fabrics



Short description 100,000 parts of water



Description Hardness of water is expressed in ‘degrees’ indicating number of parts of calcium or magnesium salts in terms of calcium carbonate present in 100,000 parts of water The moisture The moisture remaining in and on remaining in and on a a fibre, after specified mechanical fibre treatments. A chemical added to A chemical added to hardwater to hardwater to bring bring down its hardness, i.e. to down its hardness make the water soft. In most of the textile wet-processings, water hardness impairs the quality and efficiency of the process. An unattractive physical change An unattractive produced on some surfaces by a physical change drop of water. produced on some surfaces by a drop of water Weaterproofed Fabrics for raincoats, table covers, fabrics shed water etc. are treated with non-ventile under all pressures. finishes like rubber, oils, oil mixtures, lacquer compounds or synthetic resins. Weaterproofed fabrics shed water under all pressures. A textile material, A textile material, which has the which has the ability ability to resist surface wetting. to resist surface Water repellency is established by wetting. the natural properties of the fibre and yarn, and by chemical treatment of the fabric so that it repels water. A fabric which has the ability to A fabric which has resist wetting and penetration of the ability to resist water. A fabric may be water wetting and penetration of water. resistant due to its construction, due to fibres or yarns repelling water or due to a finishing treatment. A waste silk produced A waste silk produced in the in the cultivation of cultivation of the silkworm. It is the silkworm. very irregular, and is therefore one of the poorest grades, being virtually a silk refuse A twill weave with a A twill weave with a wave or



1029 Word



Category



Short description wave or zigzag design



WEARRESISTANCE



fabrics



The ability of a fabric to resist deterioration



WEATHER CLOTH



fabrics



A fabric that will withstand all types of inclement weather



WEATHER RESISTANCE



general



WEAVE



fabrics



Ability of a material to resist degradation of its properties The process of forming a fabric on a loom by interlacing the warp and weft threads with each other.



WEAVE ANALYSIS



WEAVE EFFECT



processes, The physical analysis operations of a fabric to determine its construction. fabrics The distinctive effect developed in a fabric by the weave



WEAVE PATTERN



general



Also called Point paper design and Draft



WEAVE REPEAT



fabrics



The smallest number of ends and picks



Description zigzag design produced by changing the direction of the twill at intervals. The term is also applied to the fabric The ability of a fabric to resist deterioration due to normal or excessive wear. A fabric that will withstand all types of inclement weather. Items such as tarpaulin and canvas come under this category. Ability of a material to resist degradation of its properties when exposed to climatic conditions. The process of forming a fabric on a loom by interlacing the warp and weft threads with each other. The weaves vary, depending on the interlacing pattern, used in a woven fabric. The fundamental weaves are Plain weave, Twill weave, and Satin weave. All other weaves, no matter how intricate, use one of these basic weaves in their composition. There are many variations on the basic principle, which make possible many different types of fabric surfaces and fabric strengths. See also Design. The physical analysis of a fabric to determine its construction. Method is usually with pick glass and pick needle The distinctive effect developed in a fabric by the weave, e.g. twill weave effect, honeycomb weave effect, etc. Also called Point paper design and Draft. A plan (usually drawn on graph paper) used as a guide in weaving operations that employ harnesses. The smallest number of ends and picks on which a weaveinterlacing pattern can be represented.



1030 Word WEAVING



Category processes, operations



WEFT



fibers, filaments, yarns



WEFT-FACED TWILL



fabrics



WEFTLESS FABRIC



fabrics



WEIGHT OF FABRIC



fabrics



WEIGHTING



processes, operations



WET CLEANING processes, operations



WET DOUBLING



processes, operations



WET FINISHING



fabrics



Short description Description Process of making Process of making cloth by cloth by interlacing interlacing yarns at right angles yarns at right angles according to a prescribed pattern. Another name for Filling. A yarn Another name for intended for use in the filling of a Filling. A yarn woven fabric. A yarn which is intended for use in interlaced with warp threads to the filling of a woven make a fabric. Yarn running from fabric. selvedge to selvedge at right angles to the warp in a woven fabric. The widthways threads in a woven fabric A weave characterised by A weave diagonal lines produced by a characterised by series of floats staggered in the diagonal lines produced by a series warp direction. Floats are normally formed by the wefts. of floats a sheet of parallel As used in tyre building, a sheet of cords surrounded by parallel cords surrounded by uncured rubber uncured rubber compound. compound. The weight of fabric The weight of fabric may be may be expressed in expressed in length per unit length per unit weight weight, or weight per unit length. The finishing application of certain The finishing application of certain salts to a fabric (mostly silk), in order to increase its weight, give salts to a fabric more body, and also stiffen it for a (mostly silk) firmer drape and freedom from slippage of yarns. The aqueous process The aqueous process for cleaning for cleaning of heavily of heavily soiled fabrics with soap. soiled fabrics with soap. The combination by twisting The combination by together of two or more single twisting together of two or more single yarns which have been wetted out by immersion in water or water yarns with suitable additives or alternativelydamped by contact with a transfer medium for similar fluids, before the folding twist is inserted to form a plied yarn. The application of The application of aqueous or aqueous or other other liquid treatments in one or liquid treatments in more steps to impart different one or more steps to finishes to yarn or fabric. Some of



1031 Word



Category



Short description impart different finishes to yarn or fabric.



WET PICK-UP



general



The amount of liquid and material carried by the liquid, applied to a textile.



WET PROCESSING.



WET SOILING



processes, A collective term for operations processes included in preparation, dyeing, printing, and finishing



Description the more important processes are: beetling, bleaching, calendering, chasing, decating, dyeing, embossing, fulling, gassing, lubricating, mercerization, milling, printing, shrinking, sizing, softening, sponging, stentering, washing, waterproofing, etc. See also Fabric finish The amount of liquid and material carried by the liquid, applied to a textile. Wet pick-up is usually determined as a percentage of either the dry or conditioned weight of the textile prior to processing. A collective term for processes included in preparation, dyeing, printing, and finishing in which the textile material, is treated with a liquid, normally water, or with chemicals in solution or dispersion in a liquid. The application of soil from a liquid medium. The strength of a textile material evaluated, when the material is in a thoroughly wet state



processes, The application of soil operations from a liquid medium. WET general The strength of a STRENGTH textile material evaluated, when the material is in a thoroughly wet state WET TWISTING processes, This is contrasted This is contrasted with the operations with the standard ‘dry standard ‘dry twisting’, cotton twisting’ yarns are passed beneath a roller submerged in a water trough before actually being twisted together. The protruding fibres are laid down by the water, thus producing smoother yarn. Also called Artillery twill. A firm, WHIPCORD fabrics Also called Artillery twill. A firm, compact, compact, twill weave fabric using twill weave fabric bulky yarns to give a raised look to the twill ribs. The prominent, using bulky yarns to give a raised look to indented, steep twill is produced by having the warp closely set and the twill ribs. the weft more open, and a special weave in which the twill interlacings are ‘stepped-up’ two weft yarns to give a steeper twill



1032 Word



WHITE-BACK DENIM WHITENESS



WHITNEY



WICKING



WIDENING



WIDTH



Category



Short description



Description line. See diagram for effect produced. fabrics Another name for Another name for standard denim, standard denim made with indigo blue dyed warp and gray yarn filling. general Whiteness is the Whiteness is the attribute by attribute which an object colour is judged to approach a preferred white fabrics Overcoating cloth Overcoating cloth made in wool. made in wool. Soft and thick with a face-finish on the right side that produces a wavy line effect. If made from good quality woollen yarn, it is an excellent and hard-wearing cloth. Term used to describe how fibers, Term used to moisture can run along a fibre filaments, describe how which in itself may be totally nonyarns moisture can run absorbent. This helps with along a fibre which in evaporation of moisture into the itself may be totally atmosphere. Although moisture non-absorbent. may sometimes appear to be absorbed by the fabric, it is only held within a spun, crimped or textured fibre combination, resting on the surface of the fibres. If moisture is not absorbed the fabric dries more quickly, i.e. the moisture is wicked along the fibres either to become evaporated or to be absorbed by outer layers of clothing. In knitting. A term used to processes, In knitting. A term operations used to describe the describe the movement of loops outwards at the selvedge of a movement of loops piece of fabric. The result of such outwards at the selvedge of a piece of movement is an increase in the number of loops in the succeeding fabric. course (usually by one loop), thus widening the fabric. The term is used both to describe the action itself and the site of it. A transverse measurement of a fabrics A transverse material, i.e. from side to side, or measurement of a at right angles to the length. In material, i.e. from woven fabrics, width is the side to side, or at distance from selvedge to right angles to the selvedge, in flat knit fabric, width length. is measured from edge to edge, in



1033 Word



Category



WIGAN



fabrics



WIGAN FINISH



WILD SILK



WINCH



WIND MULTIPLE



Short description



Dull-finish, plainweave cotton cloth, usually in dark colours but resembling sheeting. processes, A firm, starched, operations plain-calendered finish without lustre fibers, filaments, yarns, fabrics



Fibres extruded by insect larvae other than Bombyx mori.



apparatus, A machine designed equipage, for solution treatment tools (washing, scouring, dyeing, etc.) of piece goods while in the form of rope or endless lengths.



processes, The winding of two or operations more ends onto a tube or cone in parallel form WINDBREAKER fabrics A group of closely CLOTH woven fabrics used



Description ribbons, width is expressed by the number of the line, or ligne, and in the woollens and worsteds width is expressed in quarters, onequarter measuring nine inches. Dull-finish, plain-weave cotton cloth, usually in dark colours but resembling sheeting. Main use is as a backing or interfacing in men’s jackets, and coats. A firm, starched, plain-calendered finish without lustre, applied to light weight sheetings and print fabrics Fibres extruded by insect larvae other than Bombyx mori. Wild silk is produced by the undomesticated varieties of silkworm. These wild silkworm lives outside on the leaves of certain oak-like trees in China, India and Japan. The best known variety is Tussah silk, which has a honey colour, is stronger than cultivated silk, and is less readily attacked by acid and alkali. It is easily recognised under the microscope by its uneven width, fine lines along the length, cross markings at intervals, and patches of silk gum. It also appears to be flatter. A machine designed for solution treatment (washing, scouring, dyeing, etc.) of piece goods while in the form of rope or endless lengths. It consists of an open vat for the solution and circular or elliptical rollers which move the fabric along. Most of the fabric is in the bath in a slack or tensionless state. The winding of two or more ends onto a tube or cone in parallel form so that the ends form a compact, flat ribbon. A group of closely woven fabrics used for sports jackets designed



1034 Word



Category



WOOD FABRIC



fabrics



WOOD PULP YARNS



fibers, filaments, yarns



WOOL



fibers, filaments, yarns



Short description for sports jackets



Description to prevent passage of air with a minimum of porosity. A plain weave fabric A plain weave fabric made with warp of hard-spun cotton or raw made with warp of hard-spun cotton or silk and weft of several fine wood shavings in fibrous form in one raw silk shed altered with one or more cotton yarns in the next shed. Was used for hat frames, hat linings and embroidery canvas. Yarns made almost entirely of paper made of wood pulp. The yarns are made from long narrow strips of thin, moistened paper, which are loosely or tightly spunor twisted. Hardening or softening solutions can be used. Another method starts with a moist web of pulp as it comes from the press rolls of the paper machine. It is divided by various methods, into strips or ribbons and twisted and rolled into yarns. Used for flatweave carpets, summer floor coverings, etc. The fibrous covering of the sheep. Wool is the second mostly used natural clothing fibre. The fibre is from the fleece of the sheep or lamb, or hair from the Angora goat or Cashmere goat, (and may include the so-called speciality fibres from the hair of the camel, alpaca, llama, and vicuna), which has never been reclaimed from any woven or felted wool product. The yarn is spun from fibres, which are variable in length and randomly oriented to one another. They are intermingled and produce a bulky yarn with a fuzzy surface. Fabrics made from wool are warm and easy to manipulate, but good pressing is essential. Wool is popular not only for its quality of warmth. Because of its breathing properties, wool allows perspiration to dry on the skin,



1035 Word



Category



Short description



WOOL DYED



fibers, filaments, yarns, fabrics ³



Wool yarn or fabric made from wool



WOOL OIL



A lubricant applied to wool or hair fibres



WOOLLEN



fibers, filaments, yarns, fabrics,



Description of yarns, fabrics or garments made of yarns of carded wool, more loosely twisted than ‘worsted’ yarns.



WOOLLEN COUNT



fibers, filaments, yarns



Traditional counts depend upon the spinning system used



WOOLLEN FINISH



processes, A napping treatment operations given to some cotton fabrics



WORMING



processes, A nautical term for operations filling up the divisions between the lay (strands)



WORSTED



fibers, filaments, yarns, fabrics



Yarn. Worsted yarn is spun from long staple, wool fibres



Description which, in turn, triggers the body’s cooling effect. This also prevents perspiration from being absorbed into the fabric as happens with other fibres that have a rapid absorption rate. Very fine wool fibres weighing only 120-300 g per metre are now used for poplin, gabardine and panama. Wool yarn or fabric made from wool, which has been stock dyed before being spun into yarn. ‘stock dyed’ is the preferred term. A lubricant applied to wool or hair fibres to facilitate subsequent processing Description of yarns, fabrics or garments made of yarns of carded wool, more loosely twisted than ‘worsted’ yarns. Woollens, usually have a fuzzy surface as contrasted with a smooth surface of most worsteds. Traditional counts depend upon the spinning system used because a different hank length is employed in each case, e.g. 1/24s woollen count means that, 24 hanks each 256 yd long weigh 1 lb A napping treatment given to some cotton fabrics to make them appear like woollens, e.g. Flannelette, Cahallis, Blanket cloth, Canton flannel, Domete flannel. A nautical term for filling up the divisions between the lay (strands) of a rope by passing a spun yarn along in it in order to obtain a smooth surface. 1. Yarn. Worsted yarn is spun from long staple, wool fibres, which have been carded, and either gilled or combed, or both. Worsted yarn is smooth surfaced and blends very well with other fibres. 2. Fabric. Worsted fabric is



1036 Word



WORSTED SYSTEM



Category



Short description



processes, Spinning of worsted operations yarns from medium or longer wools, alpaca and mohair.



WORSTEDTYPE FABRIC



fabrics



A fabric manufactured wholly from worsted-type (worsted-spun) yarns



WOVEN



fabrics



Double thread system, lengthwise (warp) and crosswise (weft)



WOVEN FABRIC



fabrics



A structure produced when at least two sets of strands are interlaced, usually at right angles to each other



Description manufactured wholly from worsted yarns, except that decoration threads of other fibres may be present. Worsted clothes are usually very closely woven, smooth to touch, light, springy, durable. It holds creases well and do not stain easily. woollen materials. Spinning of worsted yarns from medium or longer wools, alpaca and mohair. Generally the processes employed are carding, combing, drawing and spinning. The short fibres or noils are removed in combing and the resultant yarn is rather compact with the fibres placed parallel. The process is quite different from the Woollen system. A fabric manufactured wholly from worsted-type (worsted-spun) yarns, or from cotton warp and worsted-type (worsted-spun) weft, and which may or may not contain decoration threads or other fibres. Double thread system, lengthwise (warp) and crosswise (weft), the two crossing one another at right angles, and kept together by means of interlacing (binding). Manufactured on conventional automatic looms, projectile looms, gripper looms and jet looms. A structure produced when at least two sets of strands are interlaced, usually at right angles to each other, according to a predetermined pattern of interlacing, and such that at least one set is parallel to the axis along the lengthwise direction of the fabric. In their simple form these consist of two series of threads, ‘Warp’ and ‘weft’, interlaced at right angles to each other. The warp threads run the length of the fabric



1037 Word



Category



Short description



WOVEN STRETCH FABRIC



fabrics



A woven fabric which is capable of at least 20 % stretch in either warp or weft direction



WRAPPER FIBRES



fibers, filaments, yarns



Also called Belly bands



WRINKLE



defects



Fabric defect.



WRINKLE RECOVERY



fabrics



Also called Crease recovery. That property of a fabric, which by its own resilience enables it to recover from folding deformations.



WRINKLE RESISTANCE



fabrics



That property and capacity of a textile material, which



Description and the weft threads run across the width. Plain weave is the simplest form of interlacing. The warp and weft interlace with each other in a similar manner. If the threads are closely spaced, this form of interlacing gives a very tight structure because the alternate interlacings give no room for sideways movement of threads. The draping properties of such a structure would depend entirely on the flexibility of the fibres and yarns. Woven structures vary in density and in interlacing, and this make them differ in appearance and handle, but in their simple forms they represent a very stable material. A woven fabric which is capable of at least 20 % stretch in either warp or weft direction, or both, under loads and conditions encountered in use, and of almost complete recovery on removal of the load. Also called Belly bands. Fibres which wrap around the main body of a staple fibre yarn during yarn formation in the production of Open-end spinning and Fasciated yarn. Fabric defect. An objectionable crease, generally short and irregular in shape, developed unintentionally. Also called Crease recovery. That property of a fabric, which by its own resilience enables it to recover from folding deformations. Wool fabrics have the greatest natural resilience. Thermoplastic, synthetic fibres and chemically treated cotton and synthetic also exhibit considerable wrinkle recovery. That property and capacity of a textile material, which enables it to resist the formation of wrinkles



1038 Word



Category



Short description Description enables it to resist the when subjected to a folding formation of wrinkles deformation and/or recover from creasing. Molecular cross-linking is one of the processes employed to improve crease resistance. Crease resistance is a term commonly used in place of the preferred term ‘wrinkle resistance’.



X Word XAMITUM



Category fibers, filaments, yarns



XANTHATING processes, operations



XYLINA



fabrics



XYLODINE



fibers, filaments, yarns



XYLOLIN



fibers, filaments, yarns



Short description Description Also called Samite. Also called Samite. A rich, heavy silk A rich, heavy silk fabric, generally interwoven with gold fabric, generally or silver threads in brocade effects. interwoven with gold Used for ecclesiastical garments, or silver threads in robes of state. The term is derived brocade effects from the Greek word hesamitos, which means woven with six threads; the fabrichas originally been made with a six-ply warp An intermediate step An intermediate step in the in the manufacture manufacture of viscose rayon in which of viscose rayon alkali cellulose is treated with carbon bisulphide for several hours at specified temperatures converting it into cellulose xanthate. A bleached cotton A bleached cotton fabric made from fabric made from cotton grown in upper Egypt. It was cotton grown in very popular with wealthy classes of upper Egypt. the Roman Empire. Yarn made by Yarn made by twisting a strip of paper twisting a strip of and coating with glue and fibre. paper and coating with glue and fibre. A trade name for A trade name for paper yarn, made in paper yarn, made in Germany. Germany.



Y Word YARN



Category Short description Description fibers, Generic term for a Generic term for a thin, long, filaments, thin, long, continuous continuous strand of textile



1039 Word



YARN COUNT IN TEX SYSTEM



Category yarns



Short description Description strand of textile fibres, filaments, or material in fibres, filaments, or a form suitable for knitting, material in a form weaving, or otherwise suitable for knitting, interwining to form a textile weaving, or fabric. An assembly of otherwise interwining substantial length with a to form a textile relatively small cross-section, fabric. made from fibres and/or filaments into a long, thin strand.Assemblies of fibres or filaments are usually given other names during the stages that lead to the production of yarn, e.g. tow, slubbing. sliver, or roving. Except in the case of continuous filament or tape yarns, any tensile strength possessed by assemblies at these stages is generally the minimum that can hold them together during processing. fibers, The tex value of a Traditional yarn counts and filaments, yarn is the weight in deniers have been replaced to yarns grams of 1000 m of a great extent by the tex yarn, so that a larger system. number indicates a The tex value of a yarn is the heavier, coarser weight in grams of 1000 m of yarn. yarn, so that a larger number indicates a heavier, coarser yarn. Yarn Count in Tex System of Continuous Filament Yarns: On the tex system continuous filament yarns, formerly specified in terms of denier, are specified in decitex. The relationship between decitex and denier is: denier is the weight in grams of 9000 m of yarn. dtex is the weight in grams of 10000 m of yarn. tex is the weight in grams of 1000 m of yarn. Thus, tex = denier ÷ 0.9 Yarn Count in Tex System of Staple Yarns: Traditional counts depend upon the spinning system used because



1040 Word



Category



YARN DYED



fabrics



Short description



Fabrics woven or knitted with yarns that have been dyed. YARN NUMBERING fibers, A system expressing SYSTEM filaments, yarn size as a yarns relationship between length and mass YARN fabrics The performance PERFORMANCE specification CHARACTERISTICS requirements for yarns, meant for various end uses, are usually guided by the internationally approved ‘Standard Performance Specifications’.



YARN SPINNING



Description a different hank length is employed in each case, e.g. 1/24s cotton count means that, 24 hanks each 840 yd long weigh 1 lb. 1/24s worsted count means that, 24 hanks each 560 yd long weigh 1 lb. 1/24s woollen count means that, 24 hanks each 256 yd long weigh 1 lb. On the tex system the meaning is the same for all yarns. 24s ‘tex count’ means that, 1000 m of yarn weigh 24 g. Fabrics woven or knitted with yarns that have been dyed. A system expressing yarn size as a relationship between length and mass



The performance specification requirements for yarns, meant for various end uses, are usually guided by the internationally approved ‘Standard Performance Specifications’. Generally, the main performance characteristics which are tested on yarns are: Count, Dimensional stability to washing, Identification of fibre/filament, Lea strength, Loop strength, Melting point (fibre), Single yarn/thread strength, Twist per unit length and Yarn evenness. processes, The process of The process of joining together operations joining together short short or staple fibres by or staple fibres by drawing them from the fibrous drawing them from mass and twisting them the fibrous mass and together. Spun yarns are twisting them produced in this way from the together. natural fibres such as wool,



1041 Word



Category



YARN TWIST



fibers, filaments, yarns



YARN UNEVENNESS



defects



YELLOWING



processes, operations



YOLK



fibers, filaments,



Short description



Description flax and cotton. Man-made fibres also are produced in this form, after chopping up a tow of continuous threads. The fundamental operations of spinning yarn by traditional methods are carding, drawing and inserting twist, followed by winding The number of turns The number of turns of twist of twist per unit per unit length yarn. It is the length yarn. twist in the yarn, which helps the fibres to hang together and the important factor is the angle of twist. This is the angle which the fibres make with the long axis of the yarn. However, it is more convenient to refer to the twist in turns per centimetre. As the amount of twist is increased in yarns they become stronger as fibre slippage is lessened, but when maximum strength has been reached, any further twisting tends to weaken the yarn. However, it is not necessary for all yarns to be twisted to the degree necessary to achieve maximum strength. Some yarns are required with soft and desirable characteristics requiring less twist, and thus having a somewhat reduced strength. See Direction of twist. In textiles, variation in In textiles, variation in the the linear density of a linear density of a continuous continuous strand or strand or portion of a strand. portion of a strand See also Coefficient of variation unevenness and Mean deviation unevenness. The yellow The yellow discoloration that discoloration that may develop on textile may develop on materials during processing, textile materials use, or storage. The oily fat The oily fat surrounding the surrounding the wool wool fibre in sheep, composed



1042 Word



Category yarns



Short description fibre in sheep



Description largely of wool fat, or lanolin, plus dried perspiration or suint. YORKSHIRE TWEED fabrics A fabric made of A fabric made of reworked reworked wool, lowwool, low-grade wool, or a grade wool, or a mixture of wool and cotton, in mixture of wool and imitation of Tweed. cotton, in imitation of Tweed. YUZEN processes, A secret Japanese A secret Japanese process of operations process of dyeing a dyeing a painted fabric in painted fabric in which fidelity of pattern, which fidelity of boldness of line, and rich pattern, boldness of colouring is retained. Habutai, line, and rich silk crêpe and velvet are colouring is retained. examples of fabrics used. YUZEN BIRODO fabrics A velvet fabric made A velvet fabric made by by applying the applying the yuzen process yuzen process and and then cutting away the pile then cutting away the with a small, sharp chisel, pile with a small, cutting the strong lines and sharp chisel shadows deeply and the delicate portions lightly.



Z Word ZANELLA



Category fabrics



Short description Description A twilled fabric generally made with A twilled fabric combed cotton warp and worsted, generally made with rayon or silk filling. Used for linings combed cotton warp and worsted, rayon or and previously for umbrella covering. silk filling. A natural polymer fibre, produced ZEIN FIBRE fibers, A natural polymer from zein, which is extracted from filaments, fibre, produced from corn meal. It is softer than wool, has yarns zein, which is attractive handle. Can be made up extracted from corn into fabrics that are warm as wool. meal. Used mostly in blends with cotton, rayon and nylon. a lightweight matelassé made with ZENANA fabrics a lightweight satin and gauze stripes. Used for matelassé made with women’s dresses. satin and gauze stripes ZEPHIRITIES fabrics A light weight, lace-like A light weight, lace-like silk jacquard silk jacquard fabric, fabric, made with two sets of raw silk made with two sets of warp; the ground warp is given a



1043 Word



Category



ZEPHYR



fabrics



ZEPHYR YARN



fibers, filaments, yarns



ZERBASE



fabrics



ZERO-TWIST fibers, YARN filaments, yarns ZIBELINE



fabrics



ZIGZAG TWILL



fabrics



ZIRPRO



processes, operations



Short description raw silk warp;



Description hard finish, while the warp used to form the designs is soft-finished. Originally made in France. The very sheer foundation is woven with both right and left hand twisted weft yarns, with one pick of each type alternating in every shed. The warp is used to form the designs are sheared away between the figures A general term for very A general term for very fine fabric of fine fabric of plain plain weave. Derived from the name weave of the ancient god of the west wind. Usually it has coloured stripes on a white ground and exhibits a cord effect made by the introduction of coarse threads at intervals. Used for dresses, blouses, and shirtings and made in various qualities. Also called Zephyr Also called Zephyr worsted. A variety worsted. A variety of of soft worsted yarn characterizedby soft worsted yarn a low twist and spun from very fine characterizedby a low wool. Sometimes silk or man-made twist and spun from fibres are blended in the yarn. very fine wool. A double-faced silk A double-faced silk fabric inter-woven fabric inter-woven with with gold or silver threads. gold or silver threads. A continuous filament 1. A continuous filament single yarn, single yarn, in which in which there is no twist. 2. A there is no twist doubled yarn in which there is no doubling twist. Heavy coating fabric with a long, Heavy coating fabric with a long, shaggy shaggy nap laid in a single direction. nap laid in a single Usually woollen, but sometimes other fibres such as acrylic may be direction. included. Dark colours are normally used and the cloth is often striped. Used for women’s coats, capes, children’s coats A term broadly applied A term broadly applied to twill to twill weaves with a weaves with a zigzag effect. These zigzag effect generally fall in the broken twill class. A treatment, developed by the A treatment, International Wool Secretariat, which developed by the improves flame retardance in wool International Wool fabrics. There is a wide range of Secretariat, which specific applications enabling the improves flame



1044 Word



Category



Short description retardance in wool fabrics.



Description treatment to be applied at the most convenient point in manufacture, i.e. involving least cost but ensuring the highest degree of flame retardance. Specific treatments, such as ‘low smoke zirpro’ have been developed for aircraft manufacturers. The Zirpro treatment (zirconium processes) can, also include other processing, e.g. Zirpro plus silicone for water repellence, Zirpro plus fluorocarbons for oil repellence, and Zirpro plus shrinkresist treatment.