LEATHER CRAFT MASTER BOOK - Nodrm PDF [PDF]

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LEATHER CRAFT MASTER BOOK



Kuu...



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Contents Introduction 4 Tool Introduction 6 Cutting line 9 Cutting 11 Floor Finish 14 Helidrop 16 Cova finishing 17 Leather-Craft 19 Bonding 21 Guideline Pull 32 Sewing Hole 34 Sewn 37 Final finishing 51 Completed 59



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At first Leather craft has become more familiar than before. When I started, there was not much information on the Internet, and just reading the reference books, I felt like there was nothing more difficult to understand. Recently, I feel that it has become an environment that can be started easily, such as a leather craft classroom, but I think that there are a lot of people who are not able to take a step easily. Therefore, I want to introduce the technology by holding the point so that anyone can finish it neatly even in the beginner easily. I will introduce an example of how to create a simple card case, thank you very very !



The finish looks like this. Now let's challenge! ******ebook converter DEMO Watermarks*******



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Tool Introduction



In this book, I will introduce how to create a card case, I would like to introduce the tool first. In order from the top left Lighter... used to bake and stop the sewing thread. Toothpick... used to apply bond for bonding. It can be applied neatly to a small part by using this. Aluminum foil... the adhesive is put out on this. It is convenient because it is thrown away together after use. It can be used repeatedly when you create it using a thick graph paper that can be purchased at stationery shop. Hand sewing thread... this time I will use the Binemo No. 0. Please change the thickness of the yarn according to your liking. If it is a thread of the ******ebook converter DEMO Watermarks*******



chemical fiber, I can burn it off with a lighter. It is used to suppress the fuzz of the back side of the leather and coanol. It is recommended that the colorless transparent thing which does not contain wax is easy to put out luster. Waxing wax... this time, I use it to stab a diamond strike and to improve the omission of leather. The first, the second, and the sixth three kinds of things of 5mm pitch are used this time. It is used to hammer and to pierce a hole. Hand sewing needles... used to sew yarn through the holes that were emptied by the diamond. A thing that is not pointed is hard to injure leather. I use it to cut the sewing thread scissors. Because the sharpness is good, the cut surface becomes beautiful and it becomes easy to pass through the needle. Ballpoint pen... used to pull the mold on the back of the leather. It is recommended because it is easy to confirm the line when the thing of 0.7 mm is cut. Rotary cutter... the cutting of a straight line is done with this tool. Since it is cut while pressing from the front to the back side, it is possible to cut stably with either thin leather or thick leather. In addition, it is economical because it can easily replace the replacement blade when the sharpness decreases. Bond for bonding... Use a quick-dry leather bond. Even if it sticks to the silver side of leather, it is recommended because it can be taken easily by toothpick. Rubber plate... put the leather on top of it, and make a stitch hole by the diamond strike. It is used for the cutting of the part which cannot be cut by a straight line such as a design knife. It is possible to exchange it when the sharpness ******ebook converter DEMO Watermarks*******



decreases because it is a change blade type. I use it when I want to color it to a dye... nume skin. Because it is difficult to align each color with one skin, it is convenient to prepare the dye according to the thing made. Woodslicker... used to polish the cools and to put out the gloss. Helidrop... used to chamfer the combined surface of the Koba. Wood block... used to polish and finish the floor surface coated with tokoquinol. Screw twisted... used to draw the guidelines for opening the stitch holes. A wooden hammer... it is used to pierce the diamond and to open the sewing hole.



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Cutting line Let's actually go into work. First of all, let's make the paper pattern which becomes the base to draw the line for cutting. Even if it is said, the card case to be produced this time is very easy because it only manufactures two paper patterns. First of all, I purchase thick graph paper at a stationery shop. If the graph paper cannot be prepared, it will be good. Then, we create two paper patterns: 80mm × 65mm, 95mm × 65mm. These are only cut out in a straight line with a cutter knife, so I think that there is no problem in particular. I think that it is interesting when I arrange it if I want to put a design like the production example of this book. Before you draw a line, there is one more thing you need to check. It is the direction of leather fiber. If you buy leather in the semi-court, shoulder, Ben's, Berry can be confirmed, such as the site, the shoulder, the Benzu is easy to extend to the horizontal direction, Berry is easy to understand to say that the vertical stretch, When a beginner tries to purchase a scrap and make it, it might not know which part it is. At such time, let's cut the edge of the leather, and tilted pull a scrap and confirm it. In the case of this card case, if you keep the direction that is easy to stretch on the vertical side, it is difficult to occur even if repeated cards are put in and out, it becomes an item that can withstand long-term use.



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First, the back side of the leather is turned up, and the pattern is put on leather. And, I hold it firmly like the paper pattern does not shift. Then, draw a line along the pattern with a ballpoint pen. Using a 0.7 mm ballpoint pen makes it easier to see the drawn lines. This is what ended up pulling the line.



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It looks like this when I draw a line with a ballpoint pen of 0.7 mm. How is this? I think that it is easy to see the line pull clearly. In the photograph, there are two table parts, but it does not matter in fact one piece.



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Cutting Let's cut the thing which the line of the previous line finished.



Place the ruler on the inside of the line and fix it as shown in the figure. The Blades of the rotary cutter are made to be perpendicular to the leather, and cut from the front to the back along the ruler. Please note that if you put the ruler outside the line and cut it, you will be able to make larger parts than the paper pattern. When the blade of the rotary cutter enters at an angle, it is necessary to fix work when it is bonded, and, please note here. Next, I'll show you how to cut a curve using a design knife.



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Please be careful that the cutting edge does not become diagonal to the leather as well as the previous rotary cutter. It is the use of the design knife, but I fix the tip outside of the little finger to a desk, and I can cut a curve stably if I work with the same grip as having a pen. In the case of this work, please cut it aiming at the last minute of the cutting line.



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Cut out the three parts as shown in the photo.



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Floor Finish Let's finish the floor . First, take the tokool with the appropriate amount of finger and apply it to the floor surface. To be careful at this time is the protrusion of tokool. If it extends too much, it will stick to the silver surface of the leather. Even if you wipe off the thing that has been attached to the silver surface once, please note that the stain remains and the traces do not disappear.



The point is not to protrude the part of the Kiwa like the photograph. If you can apply tocools to the whole, use wood blocks to polish them. Please brush until moisture flies and the luster goes out. Note that it becomes uneven when the coating amount of tocools is small.



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As in the photograph, please polish it until the gloss goes out to the whole.



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Helidrop I want to go into the Heli drop work of the card insertion part. The section of the cut part is a corner stands. By dropping the corner on the surface and the back side of this , you can finish to a beautiful Koba rounded. First of all, I will do the helicopter drop work from the back side. Please note that the blade of the Helidrop is easy to catch, and the cross section does not become uniform when working on the back side when starting from the direction of the silver face first.



As in the photograph, while pressing the lower tip of the chopper to the Work Bench, you can finish a clean cross-section by keeping the angle of the cutting edge constant.



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Koba Finish Let's go into the cofinish work of the card insertion part. First of all, we apply tocools to the entire Koba. There are many ways to do this, but I would like to show you how to apply it directly with your fingers. First, a small amount of tokool is taken in the stomach of the middle finger tip. Next, the part which does not have the coquinol of the belly is applied to leather, and it is made to touch coanol to Koba, and the finger is drawn from the back to the front.



It becomes work like the photograph. It may be a little difficult to understand, but by doing this, you can apply it to a clean and restrained way. Make sure to wipe off the tokool which is left in the hand neatly. Please be careful because it attaches to the silver side and becomes a stain when remaining even a little. Next, let's do the polishing work of Koba. I carry a woodslicker and put leather in a ditch and polish it while shuttling back and forth. When the contact area of the Woodslicker is made to come into contact with the leather without the angle of the woodslicker in case of thin leather ******ebook converter DEMO Watermarks*******



like the table part, the shape does not collapse and it finishes neatly. Because the whole of Koba is rounded by dropping the helicopter, let's polish it while changing the angle.



It polishes until the luster comes out like the photograph. If it is difficult to shine, re-apply the coanol again and polish it.



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Leather-Handmade Let's go into the leather work of the lining part of the back part. By doing this work, you can get a sense of luxury and bulge in the part of the sewing. Originally, I will do the work using a leather knife, but here I would like to introduce the work of using the corn shaving. Corn shaving is not seen so much in the home center, please try to buy because it is easy to get in the net mail order. First, the blade portion of the corn sharpener is applied to the edge of the leather, and it pulls from the back to the front by constant force. Please note that if you put too much force, it will sharpen too deeply.



It is best to cut in 5mm width like a photograph. Please try to be able to drill by a certain force by practicing by the cut out.



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I make the edge of the back part two pieces all around like a photograph.



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Bonding Let's go into the bonding work of each part. First, I start with the tension work of the back part.



As in the photograph, I leave the whole with the file. By doing this work, the fibers will be difficult to peel when glued together. Next, the bond is applied to the two back parts that were vandalized. First, the appropriate amount of bond is put out on the aluminum foil. Next, I will use toothpick to extend the bond to the whole thinly.



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If you use a brush, you can not apply the bond neatly on the part of the edge, so I will use the toothpick to paint the whole evenly. Especially, because the edge part becomes the cause of peeling when there is leaving paint, please sew it firmly.



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Please apply evenly to the whole surface of the back part like the photograph. Next, the back parts are bonded together. At this time, attention is a gap of the tension. Unlike the bond for woodworking, since the fixing is not effective when the adhesive strength of the initial coating is strong, please fit in the extent that touch lightly with respect to one side somewhere. If there is a gap at that time, peel it off softly and try again. Please crimp firmly if it is good. Especially, please hold down the edge part with a finger firmly and crimp it.



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It is firmly crimped after aligning without deviation like the photograph. Next, it is the bonding work of the back parts and the table parts that were crimped now. As well as the tension of the back part of the previous , I do from the filing of the adhesive part.



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First, I will do a filing of the lining part of the back parts. As shown in the photo, I will be filing about 5mm from the edge, but it is hard to fuzz even if the silver surface is a different than the previous, please do the filing firmly



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。 Let's firmly sandpaper the bonding part in this way. Be careful not to add the parts of the table to the part that does not overlap.



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The back side of the table part is done similarly.



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The back side of the table part is done similarly.



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I apply the bond to the part that I put in the same as the back part tension ahead. Do not leave the paint as well.



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As well as when lining the back parts also here, I will go to align the one side together.



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The tension of all parts has been completed. It has become a form, but the important work continues from here.



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Guideline pull Let's pull the guidelines for opening a stitch hole. Here I would like to work with screw twisted. First, turn the Thumbbolt attached to the screw twist to adjust the width of the twist to 3mm. When you are able to adjust, it is fixed firmly by pressing the part which was bonded ahead from the top. Next, pull the guideline from the back to the front while holding firmly the handle of the screw twist, and pressing the edge of the screw twisted edge to the side of the part.



If the width of the screw twist is put in 3mm, it becomes the balance like the photograph. It is difficult to put a card wider than this, the distance from the sewing thread to the edge is far and the appearance is not finished neatly. On the other hand, if it becomes narrower than this, the distance from the sewing thread to the edge is too close, and it is not enough to afford to do the heli dropping and the Koba finish.



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As shown in the picture , I'll draw the guidelines clearly. When drilling in the next process, the cutting edge of the rhombic punch enters the line and can do the drilling straight without deviation.



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Opening the sewing hole Let's go into the sewing hole work which can be called the most important process of sewn work. If you say the leather craft work of sewn, you may think that it is difficult to sew, but please note that it does not finish neatly even if I do the hole opening by an exact pitch (width) here, and how much is sewn evenly. This time, I use the diamond strike of 5mm pitch. Because the paper pattern is made in 0.5 mm increments, it is possible to minimize that the hole overlaps because the pitch does not fit when I open a hole for one week by using the 5mm pitch of the eye.



First, as in the photograph, the position of the diamond strike is decided to avoid the step so that the thread does not open the hole in the part where the leather is connecting.



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Next, the hammer is made to confirm whether the diamond strike is perpendicular to the leather, and the hole is pierced by hammering the diamond strike. At this time , when the angle becomes diagonal, the surface has a straight hole, but the back becomes rattling. Before you get used to it, please make sure to proceed with your work once.



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This is the state where the hole is completed.



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Hand I want to go into the sewn work that is the real thrill of leather craft. One needle at a no object, but there may be an image that I said that I sew in a robust with power, it is better to go to sew rhythmically with a certain force than it is stable and finish clean. I think it is difficult until you get used to, but I will explain the procedure in detail from here, so please work hard to learn. This time we will continue to use the zero-count Vinemo. It is balanced to the hole of 5mm pitch , and it finishes in a beautiful no object. The yarn is cut at about four times the length of the sewing distance first. At this time, please be careful because the thread is frayed if it does not cut with a good cutting knife such as the pincer scissors, and the thread becomes difficult to enter the hole.



First, thread the needle hole.



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Insert the tip of the needle into the next thread.



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The next time you pull the beam, it looks like a photo. This is done at both ends of the thread.



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Next, the surface of the card case where the hole was opened is made to the right side, and it secures it across the work table. Because the position where the needle is passed at the beginning becomes the sewing end, and the yarn stop is done , thebottom of the card case which is inconspicuous is sewn first. The Work Bench is all right in the woodworking work table to get in the home center. Please try to purchase it because it is cheaper than a special leather craft product, and work is good. First, I pass the needle to the part which becomes the sewing first. Because the tip is round, the sewn needle is hard to scratch even if I apply it to leather, but please put it in the hole accurately without applying it to leather as much as possible.



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Next, pull the needle through so that the length of the left and right threads are evenly spaced. Please note that the tension is not uniformly put on the table and the back when the sewing thread is tightened when the length of the left and right is different, and the seam is filled.



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Next, pass the needle from the right to the next hole through the thread.



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Next, pull the thread from the right to the left with your right hand, and insert the needle from the left hand to the hole. At this time, it is made to pass the needle from the left to the front side of the thread which passes from the right. It is all right if the state through the needle is like a photograph.



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The needle from the left side is extracting and it looks like a photograph. When this happens, you can sew one hole with your left hand with the needle on the right, and pull up with the same force as it is.



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It becomes like the photograph when one needle is sewn up.



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If you go ahead and sew, it looks like this. Because it comes to be able to sew in a constant rhythm when becoming accustomed, the sewing power will stabilize. Let's go sewing one lap in the above procedure. It might be a good idea to try it after practicing it with a cut.



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If you go through one week sewing and the yarn is overlapping, return one needle and pass the yarn. And make sure both threads are on the back of the card case like the photo .



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As in the photograph, the length of the yarn is cut leaving about 3mm. Next, the cut thread is burnt with the writer, and when the thread melts, it presses the metal part of the lighter and the yarn is stopped.



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As in the photograph, it becomes difficult to fray when it is enough to enter a melted thread in the stitch hole.



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The stitching is coming to an end. It's just a little later.



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Final Finish It has gone through a variety of processes so far, but it is finally final finish. Even to say, the work will be a combination of the work that has been done, such as the filing of Koba, Helidrop, Koquinol, polishing. Let's go into work.



First, we will troll the whole Koba with a file. I file it to the extent that the step of the tension part is eliminated. Please make the angle of the file parallel to Koba at this time. If you put an angle, it will spread Koba, so be careful when you finish.



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As in the photograph, let's file multiply until the step of the matching surface of the leather becomes smooth.



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Next, the corner of the card case is dropped with a cutter. Then we use Helidrop to drop the corner of Koba. Please drop the corner in the same manner because I think that it is easy to do the minute which I bonded than time of the table part .



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Next, the water sharpening paper is put, and the finish of the Koba bottomprocessing is done. Let's finish it with the paper of 400 number 800. The part where the helicopter was dropped is firmly put on paper. Be careful not to put paper on the silver side at this time.



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You can see that it is finished smoother than the state of the filing only? Please do the paper hanging until this state.



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Next , we will apply Tokool to Koba. It will be applied in the same manner as when the table parts, but it is easy to apply because there is also a thickness in Koba. Please extend thin to the whole of Koba so as not to attach to the silver side.



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Finally, it becomes the final polishing process. I will polish the whole of Kobol coated with Woodslicker. Use the wood slicker grooves and the table to polish them. Please repeat the coating and polishing until convincing. If you move back and forth quickly with light force, heat enters easily, and you can finish it with a shiny koba.



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Complete!



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Completed Let's look at the finished work.



By polishing, it was finished in Koba with a sense of gloss and luxury.



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Could you finish it like a photo?



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Thank you very much for your relationship!



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In conclusion How was it? It is a simple work, but I think that I was able to acquire the technique of a basic leather craft through this work. If you have the technology introduced in this book , I think that you can challenge the thing with a high degree of difficulty such as wallets and bags. The leather craft will continue to accumulate the technology by making the work repeatedly. There is no shortcut, so please continue patiently and improve the technology. I hope that this book will help your leather craft life. Kuu...



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