Rapunzel Crochet [PDF]

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Crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon @chiacrafts



https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs



Rapunzel Crochet Pattern



This pattern was designed by Chiara Cremon aka @chiacrafts, who hopes you’ll enjoy it a lot!



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Crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon @chiacrafts



https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs



A message for you! Hello dear fellow crocheters! My name is Chiara (pronounced “Kiara”, as I’m Italian) and I’m not only the girl in the picture down there but, most importantly, the person behind the Instagram account @chiacrafts! In the very beginning crochet was, for me, nothing more than a Sunday hobby, useful to keep my mind busy and far away from disaster fantasies. When I first opened my Instagram account, I’d have never imagined achieving such success, but it quickly grew and many people expressed interest in reproducing my creations :D, which brought me to start typing down and sharing my patterns! These free patterns are a token of my appreciation for your support, a present for you. Overall they are written with accuracy and style very close to my paying patterns: this is, IMO, one more reason to respect them! Please, pay attention to the instructions reported in the license, and try to comply with my wishes indicated there:) Just let me thank you once again for your love and support. You’re all a source of great motivation for me!



Cheers, Chiara



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Crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon @chiacrafts



https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs



Licence Hello, and thank you for being about to try out this pattern! It was made with a lot of love and personal effort :) Here are a few rules and advice you’d REALLY better read and keep in mind ;) DO NOT copy or redistribute this pattern in ANY form. Unauthorized translations are also prohibited. The fact this pattern has been provided to you for free DOESN’T MEAN it’s copyright free or that you can do whatever you want with it. On the contrary, the fact it’s a present should motivate you to respect it even more! This document can only be found in my Ravelry shop (link in the header). If you found it in any other location you’re reading an unauthorized copy: please download another one from the official location. DO NOT reuse my pictures. DO NOT use it as a base to create your original characters. Remember that my wish is for this free pattern to be used to reproduce this character only: if you do it for practice, please keep it off social media :) You’re allowed, however, to use it as a support to crochet other of my princesses' patterns (in case you’d need more complete tips or the new shape of the head). This pattern is intended for personal use only. Please give me credits when posting online by always adding “Pattern by @chiacrafts” and #chiacraftspatterns (both). If you don’t post online, I would very much like to receive a picture of your work anyway :D Please respect my copyright, my wishes and my hard work. Support me and help me carry on this activity. Thank you for listening :) For any doubt, you can contact me via PM on Instagram or by email. I DO NOT answer questions via private message on Ravelry, but you have all the information to contact me otherwise. I always answer :)



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Crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon @chiacrafts



https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs stacking concentric layers. There aren’t parts worked in joined rounds in this pattern.



Read Me!



When working in rows, instead, at the end of each row you should turn your work and proceed in the opposite direction: the first st of a row should, therefore, be worked in the last stitch of the previous row, thus proceeding zig-zag and creating a 2D shape. When working in rows, you should always make a turning chain at the end of each row of sc to help you better turn your work. This turning chain might not be always explicitly reported in the pattern, but it’s visible in the diagrams. The only case where you should NOT make a turning chain is when you make a decrease at the beginning of a row (you skip the first stitch and start working in the second). When working in rows, after a chain, always start from the second loop from hook, if not specified otherwise. Also, both when working in rows and working in rounds, work the stitches always through the entire stitch, not in the back loops or front loops only, unless specified otherwise.



Pay attention to the details! Take a good look at all the pictures and don’t be afraid to re-do some parts. Luckily, they’re so small it’s quite fast :) It's a good practice to read the whole document before starting. Knowing what to expect will help you pay attention!



Tips and Tutorials You find quick video tutorials on how to work in rounds, rows and how to execute all the basic stitches in my Youtube channel. I advise you to have a look in case you should be unsure about how to work. Anyway, all the stitches are quite standard, so you might as well just type the name of the stitch on google, and follow the first tutorial popping out. You also find some useful tips related to my patterns in my Instagram guides. I strongly recommend taking a look if this is the first time you’re following one of my patterns! This material is constantly evolving: I keep improving in explaining myself and I keep enriching it. That's why I'm not linking any post to specific parts of the document.



For left-handed people If you’re left-handed, everything is mirror-like for you! Right-handed people should work in the round clockwise, keeping the crochet hook between them and the work. Left-handed people should work in the round counterclockwise keeping the work between them and the crochet hook. Right-handed should work in rows proceeding from right to left, left-handed should work from left to right. Therefore, you can easily follow this pattern keeping in mind to always swap instructions specularly: for example, if I say that the stitch marker should be placed on the left side of the doll, that makes it the right side for you, and so on.



Rounds and Rows Parts of this pattern have been worked in Rounds, others in Rows. When working in rounds, the first stitch of a round must be worked upon the first stitch of the previous one, thus proceeding in spiral and creating a 3D hollow shape. This technique is known as continuous rounds. Another way of working in rounds is the joined rounds one: in this case, you start each round with a chain, work the first st in the stitch right below the chain, and you end each round with a sl in the first st. You don’t proceed in a spiral, but by



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Crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon @chiacrafts



https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs



Tip: measure your gauge



Stitch marker usage



Measure the dimensions of your stitches or compare them with those of the rest of the project to understand if you’re proceeding well. For example: the stitches of the wig are smaller than those of the head, despite the indications said to work it with the same tension? It will most likely not fit :) If you’re planning on making more characters of the same series, and you want to make them all alike, don’t forget to keep another doll close so you can compare the sts dimensions and adjust your gauge. Tiny variations in the thickness of the yarn, your mood, but also other factors such as lighting, together with your natural improvement as a crafter, can play a role in impacting your gauge. That’s perfectly normal! Just take your time to adjust it if needed.



I place the stitch marker on the LAST st of the round. I.E.: in my patterns, it marks the end of the round.



Don’t work inside out! If you’re working correctly and you’re right handed, you should work clockwise keeping the crochet hook between you and the work (counterclockwise if you're left-handed). If you’re right handed and you’re working counterclockwise keeping the work between you and your crochet hook, then you’re working inside out. You’ll have a hard time following this pattern if you do so, I’d suggest you correct it.



YU vs YO stitches Some parts in this pattern are worked YU (Yarn Under) i.e. using the “X” stitch. Others are worked YO (yarn over), i.e. using the “V” stitch. You find more info about the two in the dedicated post in my IG profile. The choice of stitch type is mainly aesthetical and doesn’t impact the result more than how a change in gauge would. Feel free to follow it all using only 1 kind of stitch, if that makes you more comfortable.



Gauge I used to work the body of my dolls extremely tight. Since it’s not easy to work as tight as I do and I want to make my patterns as reproducible as possible, for this series I tried loosening up my tension a bit. Using the “x” stitch helped a lot! The fact the stitch is “fuller” allows me to work a bit more relaxed while still avoiding annoying holes in the fabric. The pattern is still to be worked tight, but don’t go crazy or finger-breaking ;)



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Crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon @chiacrafts



https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs



Abbreviations * These are standard US standard abbreviations + something I’ve made up to ease the reading. ★ R = Round (continuous or joined) ★ Row = row ★ MR = Magic Ring ★ st = stitch ★ sk = skip ★ sc = single crochet ★ inc = sc increase (invisible sc increase, i.e. 1st sc in FL, 2nd through the entire st when working in rounds, [2 sc] through the entire st when working in rows) ★ dec = sc decrease (invisible sc decrease when working in rounds, sc2tog when working in rows) ★ dc = double crochet ★ hdc = half double crochet ★ ch = chain ★ sl = slip stitch ★ tr = treble crochet ★ BLO = back loop only (corresponds to the inner loop when working in rounds) ★ FLO = front loop only (corresponds to the outer loop when working in rounds) ★ [ ] = means that the stitches are to be done in the same loop or stitch ★ CY-PO = cut the yarn and pull it out from the stitch ★ IJ = Invisible Join ★ FO = fasten off (CY-PO + IJ) ★ stsc = standing sc ★ tch = turning chain ★ rc = rising chain



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Crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon @chiacrafts



https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs Anyhow, my advice is to avoid picking a yarn much thicker than indicated, to avoid a sloppy result: maximum 1 size bigger!



Materials ★ ★ ★ ★ ★



2.0 mm hook Tapestry needle 8mm black safety eyes Stuffing (poly fiber fill or other) Yarn all in the same size of the following colors: ○ Peach (skin) ○ Mustard (hair) ○ Pink (dress) ○ Antique pink (dress) ○ Violet (dress) ○ White (dress) ○ Grey (pan) ○ Tiny scraps of black to work the eye embroidery



Dimensions Using the yarn and hook size indicated (and, most importantly, working tight!!!), the finished amigurumi will be about 13x5 cm.



Note on the eyes The right safety eye size depends on the doll’s dimensions! Don’t purchase 8 mm eyes if you’re not sure the dimensions of your doll will be similar to mine. My advice is to purchase a box with many different sizes, and use the one which better suits your doll. Approximately, safety eyes should be 2.5 stitches wide.



Note on the yarn I used YarnArt Jeans, which is a yarn made to be worked with a 3 or 3.5 mm hook (it comes only in 1 size, so you can’t go wrong). As usual when working amigurumis, I’ve used a hook 1 size smaller than indicated to better work the body tight, thus avoiding holes in the crochet from which the stuffing would be visible or fall through. You should get a good result with this pattern as long as you stick to one yarn brand/size, work the body tight with a hook 1 size smaller than indicated, and scale the other hooks accordingly.



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Crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon @chiacrafts



https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs R16: 2 sc, (inc, 2 sc) x 2, 8 sc (18) R17: 18 sc (18) R18: 18 sc BLO (18) It’s important for you to work R18 BLO, the skirt will be worked in the FLs left! R19: 2 sc, (dec, 2 sc) x 2, 8 sc (16) Booty finished :) R20: 16 sc (16) R21: (6 sc, dec) x 2 (14) R22: (5 sc, dec) x 2 (12) R23: 2 sc, 1 sc changing to peach, 1 sc, dec, 4 sc dec (10) (the color change should fall on the back) Wait before stuffing the body. R24: (3 sc, dec) x 2 (8)



Legs Hook: 2.0 Work tight Work YU Start with peach yarn R1: 6 sc in magic ring (6) R2-R13: 6 sc (6) Make 2 legs. The legs don’t need stuffing! CY-PO after making the first leg. Leave a long tail in case some sewing should be needed. Don’t cut the yarn after making the second leg instead; you’ll keep on working from there to join the legs. Make 2.



Body Hook: 2.0 Work tight Work YU Work starting from the 2nd leg made. Change color to antique pink Join the legs: R14: 3 sc in 2nd leg, ch2, 6 sc in 1st leg, 2 sc in back side of the chain, 3 sc in 2nd leg (16) (Start working in the 1st leg from the 1st st of R13!)



Stop to work a row of white surface slip stitches between R22 and R23, on top of the color change. Do these sl before stuffing up to that point! Work using a 2.0 hook, but very loosely. Proceed this way all along the color change line, end with an IJ:



You can also add some embroideries:



R15: 16 sc (16) Now we’re enlarging to create the booty!



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Crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon @chiacrafts



https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs R32: 1 sc, 1 inc, (4 sc, 1 inc) x 2, 20 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc (40) Here’s an example of a possible adaptation. R32: 1 sc, 1 inc, (4 sc, 1 inc) x 2, 20 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc 4 sc, 1 inc (40) R33-R34: 40 sc (40) Your work should look as in the following picture. Mark two spots at a distance of 7 stitches (1st stitch marker on the 1st, second on the 7th). This distance will correspond to the distance between the eyes,



Then, stuff the body. Then keep working in peach color: R25: (2 sc, dec) x 2 (6) Now 2 rounds for the neck R26-R27: 6 sc (6) Neck done, now we start the head R28: 6 inc (12) R29: (1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18) R30: (2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24) R31: (1 sc, 1 inc) x 12 (36) This is how your work should look so far: should be a flat disk.



In R32, we’re going to work some increases on the front and single crochet on the back. Mark 20 sc on the back of the doll. On the back, you’re going to work 20 sc, from one stitch marker to the other. On the front, you’re going to work some increases placed at a distance of 4 sc. You might need to change the way you distribute these increases before and after the end of the round based on where you find yourself at the end of R31.



You’re going to work sc until right before the 1st stitch marker, then 1 dec, then 7 sc, then 1 dec, then end the round with sc. In my case, the pattern ended up being: R35: 3 sc, 1 dec, 7 sc, 1 dec, 26 sc (38) R36-R41: 38 sc (38) R42: (17 sc, 1 dec) x 2 (36) Stop and place the safety eyes between R36 and R37 (count 6 rounds from the top, it will be easier) 7 sc apart:



I did:



TIP: while stuffing the head, it’s possible that the eyes will tilt towards the outside. It’s a good trick



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Crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon @chiacrafts



https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs to straighten them and indent them using some skin color threads passing inside the head! I advise you to place them now, before adding the eyes. Cut two long threads and pass them as in the following picture, at 1 st distance from the hole where you’re going to place the eye (always on the inner side!).



Stuff below the indentation threads. I first pull out the threads, and I stuff the lower part of the head, then I pull the threads back in (from the back of the doll),



Then proceed placing the eyes and making the eye embroidery (you can find a generic video tutorial on how to make the embroidery in my Instagram profile).



The peach threads will be used to indent the eyes. For the time being, pull them out the back of the doll. and I stuff the rest while closing up the head. The top of the head should be stuffed firmly: don’t neglect the last rounds. The lower part of the head ends up being slightly lighter stuffed than the upper one, since it’s stuffed as just shown whereas, while closing the top, I keep pushing stuffing in with my scissors until the surface is well stretched (proper stuffing can increase the height of the forehead of your doll up to 1 cm!).



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Crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon @chiacrafts



https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs Keep on working the head: R43: (4 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (30) R44: (3 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (24) Stuff while closing the head! It must be stuffed firmly, don’t neglect the last rounds. R45: (2 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (18) R46: (1 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (12) R47: 6 dec (6) CY-PO leaving a long tail for sewing. Using a tapestry needle, pass the tail through all the FLs of the last round, and pull. Make a knot and hide the yarn inside the doll’s body.



Skirt Hook: 2.0 Work loosely Work YU Start with violet yarn, you’ll also need white and a bit of pink Start working in one of the FLs left at R17, on the back of the doll. Keep the body upside down and work clockwise



Last, pull the peach threads to indent the eyes, fix them with a knot behind the head and hide the tails inside the head (there’s a video in my Instagram profile). Here’s the result so far!



R1: 1 stsc, 17 sc (18)



R2: (1 sc, inc) x 9 (27) R3-R6: 27 sc (27) R7: (8 sc, 1 inc) x 3 (30) R8-R11: 30 sc (30) R12: Work FLO: 30 sc (30) R13: 30 sl (30)



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Crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon @chiacrafts



https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs Using white yarn and 2.0 hook, make a round parallel to R12, working in the BLs left. R12//: stsc, (ch 3, sc in next BL) x 30



Arms Hook: 2.0 Work tight Work YU Start with peach yarn, you’ll also need pink and antique pink R1: 5 sc in magic ring (5) R2-R3: 5 sc (5) Change to pink R4: 5 sc (5) R5: 5 sc BLO (5) R6-R9: 5 sc (5) Change to antique pink R10: 5 sc BLO (5) R11: 1 sc, 1 popst, 1 sl, CY-PO (5) The popcorn stitch (popst) is made of 4 incomplete dc, then you YO and pass through 5 loops on your hook. Work it extremely loose and pop out the stitch once complete. You just created a poofy shoulder. The arms don’t need stuffing. Make 2. Using white yarn, work in the FLs left: (ch 2, 1 sl) x 5



I’ve then added two simple lines in pink to make a decor on the dress:



Then sew them or glue them to the body.



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Crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon @chiacrafts



https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs



Hair wig Hook: 2.0 Work loosely Work YO Work with mustard yarn Work in rows (don’t forget the tch!): Row1: chain 41 (40) Row2: 40 hdc (40) The strand you’ve just made should be roughly as long as the doll. Adjust your gauge or make it longer if needed!



Then, turn around the base and work 13 sc towards the end of Row1.



From here, work: ch 41, working in this chain: 20 hdc, 20 sc



Row2-Row13: Work BLO: 40 hdc (40) This piece should be long enough to cover the back of the head from side to side (you’re gonna add one more single crochet row later on). If needed, add more rows, but pay attention to keep their number odd.



Then work 40 sc on the side, till you find yourself close to the starting tail.



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Crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon @chiacrafts



https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs Without cutting the yarn, work the following part in rows (don’t forget the tch!): Row1: ch 21 (20) Row2: 20 sc (20) Row3: (2 sc, 1 dec) x 5 (15) Row4: (3 sc, 1 dec) x 3 (12) Row5: (2 sc, 1 dec) x 3 (9) Row6: (1 sc, 1 dec) x 3 (6) Row7: 3 dec (3), don’t make a tch Row8: sk 1, 1 dec (1) CY-PO This creates this half-crescent shaped part:



Using a tapestry needle, pass through 13 small loops on the top (1 per row you worked).



Work slip stitches until you find yourself at the beginning or Row1 of this piece.



Then pass the tapestry needle inside this loop to close the wig and pull. Here’s the final result:



Pass your needle all the way through, keeping a small loop at the beginning.



This is how the wig looks like:



Glue it or sew it on top of the head.



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Crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon @chiacrafts



https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs



Congratulations, your Rapunzel is ready! Don’t forget to send me a picture and tag me / give me credits / use my hashtag when posting online! All info is in the license! Look at the differences with my previous version… and remember it’s worth it to keep practicing!



Pan Hook: 2.0 Work tight Work YU Start with grey yarn R1: 6 sc in MR (6) R2: 6 inc (12) R3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18) R4: 18 sc BLO (24) R5: ch 11, 10 sc from second loop from hook of the ch you’ve just made, sl in next sc of R4, FO



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