Ann Taylor Manual 6-13-08 [PDF]

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ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL



SECTION 10



PART I



RAW MATERIAL AND FINISHED PRODUCT



PERFORMANCE AND TESTING PROCEDURES



STANDARDS & PROCEDURES



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL



TABLE OF CONTENTS PROCEDURES FOR DEVELOPMENT .............................................................................................................................. 3 CORPORATE PRODUCT TESTING PROGRAM ............................................................................................................... 3 Spinner’s Certificate .......................................................................................................................................................4 Fur and Faux Fur ...........................................................................................................................................................5 Shearling ........................................................................................................................................................................5 RESTRICTED SUBSTANCES COMPLIANCE ...............................................................................................................6 RETESTING RESTRICTED SUBSTANCE.....................................................................................................................6 ANN TAYLOR RESTRICTED SUBSTANCES LIST .......................................................................................................7 DEVELOPMENT TESTING ............................................................................................................................................. 13 Trim Component Testing - Development ......................................................................................................................13 Yarn Testing – Development (Basic Yarn Test Package) ...............................................................................................14 Yarn in Yarn Form .......................................................................................................................................................14 Yarn in Knit Form ........................................................................................................................................................15 Fabric Testing - Development .......................................................................................................................................16 PRODUCTION TESTING ................................................................................................................................................ 17 Trim Component Testing (including test protocols) ......................................................................................................17 Yarn Testing - Production ............................................................................................................................................26 Yarn in Yarn Form .......................................................................................................................................................27 Yarn in Knitted Form ...................................................................................................................................................28 Fabric Production Testing ............................................................................................................................................29 Garment Production Testing .........................................................................................................................................31 TEST REQUEST PROCEDURES..................................................................................................................................... 33 APPROVED LABORATORIES FOR ANN TAYLOR SOFTLINES PRODUCTS ................................................................ 36 ANN TAYLOR TEST PACKAGE PRICES – SOFTLINES .................................................................................................. 40 ANN TAYLOR INDIVIDUAL TEST PRICES ..................................................................................................................... 42 Ann Taylor Adult Test Request Form—TRIM................................................................................................................ 44 Ann Taylor Adult Test Request Form—FABRIC/ YARN ................................................................................................ 45 Ann Taylor Adult Test Request Form—GARMENT ....................................................................................................... 46 PRODUCT PERFORMANCE .......................................................................................................................................... 47 TESTING PROTOCOLS .................................................................................................................................................. 50 BOTTOMS (#001) ........................................................................................................................................................51 TOPS, DRESSES, JACKETS (#002) (CAREER/CASUAL) .............................................................................................54 SUITS/COORDINATES (#003) (CAREER/CASUAL) .....................................................................................................57 OUTERWEAR (#004) ...................................................................................................................................................60 DENIM APPAREL (#005) .............................................................................................................................................63 INTIMATES (#006) .......................................................................................................................................................66 SLEEPWEAR (#007) ....................................................................................................................................................69 TESTING ACTIVE/SWIMWEAR (#008) ........................................................................................................................72 SWEATERS (#009).......................................................................................................................................................76 LEATHER (#010) ..........................................................................................................................................................79 ADDITIONAL TESTING (#011) .....................................................................................................................................81 Basic Care Labels ........................................................................................................................................................... 83 Branded & Co-Branded Product ..................................................................................................................................... 84 BOTTOMS (#001A) ......................................................................................................................................................85 TOPS, DRESSES, JACKETS (#002A) ...........................................................................................................................87 SUITS/COORDINATES (#003A) ...................................................................................................................................89 OUTERWEAR (#004A) .................................................................................................................................................91 DENIM APPAREL (#005A) ...........................................................................................................................................93 INTIMATES (#006A).....................................................................................................................................................96 SWEATERS (#009A) ....................................................................................................................................................98



Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product Performance & Testing Procedures



2 June 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL PROCEDURES FOR DEVELOPMENT • • •



Each fabric/yarn that is considered for development is required to be accompanied by a “Fabric/Yarn Information Sheet (FIS/YIS)”. This form is to be completed by the Mill and a copy is to be sent to the appropriate Ann Taylor Product Developer. According to the information that the Mills supply, New York Sourcing will decide to either pursue or drop/substitute the quality, depending on the end use. If deemed suitable for the product, new fabrics will be evaluated, prior to making bulk commits, to make sure all standards can be met (See “Development Testing” for details).



CORPORATE PRODUCT TESTING PROGRAM



•



•



Ann Taylor has established a basic testing program to monitor and ensure compliance with applicable legislation and corporate quality standards. Basic test packages have been developed for products and components, including trim components, yarns, textiles, and garments.



•



All products, including trim components, yarns, textiles, and garments must be tested at Production stage prior to shipment. Each supplier is solely responsible for ensuring that prior to shipment each product has been tested in accordance with the applicable basic testing package. All finished products care and content must be appropriately labeled in accordance with United States Federal Trade Commission Regulations.



•



Each supplier is responsible for the submission of the required number of samples, in all styles and all colors purchased, for evaluation. The supplier is required to submit the required number of samples to the laboratory accompanied by the completed Ann Taylor Test Request Form (see pages 44-46).



•



Ann Taylor will be monitoring to ensure that all products are tested.



•



Ann Taylor will pay for all development testing when it is specifically requested by the appropriate Ann Taylor buying agent, Merchandise Manager, or Product Manager. Note: If the item developed is purchased for production, the supplier will be required to pay the development testing charges. All suppliers who provide textiles and finished products to Ann Taylor, or to other Ann Taylor suppliers for confirmed Ann Taylor orders, are required to incur the cost of all production testing, including the cost of merchandise destroyed during the process. This independent testing is required to verify that all products are in compliance with all applicable legislation and established performance standards. Suppliers will be invoiced directly for the testing charges by the Ann Taylor approved testing laboratory.



Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product Performance & Testing Procedures



3 June 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Spinner’s Certificate 1. Spinner’s certificate is a document used by spinner to confirm a certain type of fiber, including trademarks, used in spinning. 2. Types of fibers that require spinner’s certificate include the followings: - Merino wool - Lambs’ wool - Shetland wool - Angora rabbit hair - Premium cotton fibers such as Pima, Egyptian, Sea Island etc. - Fiber trademarks such as Lycra®, Elite®, Tencel® etc. 3. Apart from the spinner’s certificate, additional supporting tests will be performed by BV or ITS Shanghai on claimed fiber type or fiber trademarks (e.g. Antron), where applicable.



4. Information on date of issue, client's address, authorized signature, yarn description, RMID (Raw Material Identification) number, etc. must be included on the document. 5. Spinner’s certificate is valid ONLY for 12 months from date of issue.



Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product Performance & Testing Procedures



4 June 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Fur and Faux Fur Genuine Fur Ann Taylor Stores Corporation has a “no-fur” policy for all brands. This excludes shearling. Garment Containing Faux Fur In order to ensure compliance with the corporate policy on real fur, items that contain faux fur must be accompanied by a test report confirming this prior to shipping.



Shearling Garment Containing Shearling (not fur) All shearling furs require fiber content test performed on bulk raw material. This test must be performed by a CCMI approved laboratory and submitted to Ann Taylor prior to shipping.



Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product Performance & Testing Procedures



5 June 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL RESTRICTED SUBSTANCES COMPLIANCE It is critically important for Ann Taylor to know that our products are safe for customer’s end use. To accomplish this, we have created a restricted substances list with implementation dates. It is mandatory that all raw materials shipped by September 1, 2008, and finished products by November 1, 2008 are in full compliance. RETESTING RESTRICTED SUBSTANCE Any raw material that fails initial testing for restricted substances must indicate on subsequent test request form what corrective action has been taken to ensure compliance with Ann Taylor’s standards.



Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product Performance & Testing Procedures



6 June 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL ANN TAYLOR RESTRICTED SUBSTANCES LIST June 2008 Version CAS Number



Chemical Name/Color Index Name



Standard Origin



Ann Taylor Limits



Reason for Restriction



Test Method



Compliance Date



DYES AZO Dyes which, by reductive cleavage of one or more AZO groups, may release one or more of the following aromatic amines. 60-09-3



4-Amino azobenzene1



97-56-3



o-Aminoazotoluene



92-67-1



4-Aminodiphenyl



99-55-8



2-Amino-4-nitrotoluene



90-04-0



o-Anisidine



92-87-5



Benzidine



106-47-8



p-Chloroaniline



95-69-2



4-Chloro-o-toluidine



120-71-8



p-Cresidine



615-05-4



2,4-Diaminoanisole



101-77-9



4,4'-Diamino-diphenylmethane



91-94-1



3,3'-Dichlorobenzidine



119-90-4



3,3'-Dimethoxybenzidine



119-93-7



3,3'-Dimethylbenzidine



838-88-0



3,3'-Dimethyl-4,4'-diamino-diphenylmethane



101-14-4



4,4'-Methylene-bis-(2-chloroaniline)



91-59-8



2-Naphthylamine



101-80-4



4,4'-Oxydianiline



139-65-1



4,4'-Thiodianiline



95-80-7



2,4-Toluenediamine



95-53-4



o-Toluidine



137-17-7



2,4,5-Trimethylaniline



95-68-1



2,4-Xylidine2



87-62-7



2,6-Xylidine2



Not Detected (below detection limits - see test method)



European Union & China



Legislated



Textiles (EU): EN 14362-1



Immediate



Polyester(EU): EN 14362-2 Leather(EU): CEN ISO/TS 17234 Textiles(China) GB/T 17592-2006 Test Method for 4Aminoazobenzene (pAAB) confirmation § 64 LFGB 8 82.02-9



Footnotes: 1. Applicable in the European Union Regulation Only 2. Applicable in the Chinese Regulation only



Disperse Dyes 2475-45-8



Disperse Blue 1



56524-77-7 or 56524-76-6



Disperse Blue 35



12223-01-7



Disperse Blue 106



61951-51-7



Disperse Blue 124



730-40-5



Disperse Orange 3



13301-61-6



Disperse Orange 37/76



2872-52-8



Disperse Red 1



2832-40-8



Disperse Yellow 3



Not Detected



Germany



Legislated



DIN 54231 Disperse Dyes



European Union



Legislated



Solvent extraction Immediate and GC-MS or LC MS



Immediate



(below detection levels see regulation)



Other Dyes 118685-33-9



Navy Blue



Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product Performance & Testing Procedures



0.1% by mass



7 June 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL



SOLVENTS (Aliphatic Chlorohydrocarbons) 76-01-7



Pentachloroethane



56-23-5



Carbon Tetrachloride



630-20-6



1,1,1,2-Tetrachloroethane



79-34-5



1,1,2,2-Tetrachloroethane



67-66-3



Chloroform



79-00-5



1,1,2-Trichloroethane



75-35-4



1,1-Dichloroethylene



71-55-6



1,1,1-Trichloroethane



127-18-4



Tetrachloroethylene3



0.1%(mass) total



Germany Legislated and Japan



Headspace GC-MS



All raw materials shipped by 9/1/08 and finished product by 11/1/08



U.S. EPA Method 8081A/8151A



All raw materials shipped by 9/1/08 and finished product by 11/1/08



Footnotes: 3. Applicable in the Japan Regulation Only



PESTICIDES 93-72-1



2-(2,4,5-trichlorophenoxy) propionic acid, its salts and compounds



93-76-5



2,4,5-trichlorophenoxyacetic acid, its salts and compounds



309-00-2



Aldrin (both Switzerland and Finland)



57-74-9



Chlordane (both Switzerland and Finland)



72-54-8



Dichloro-diphenyl-dichloro ethane (DDD)



72-55-9



Dichloro-diphenyl-dichloro ethylene (DDE)



50-29-3



Dichloro-diphenyl-tichloro ethane (DDT) (both Switzerland and Finland)



60-57-1



Dieldrin (5) Also Japan (both Switzerland and Finland



72-20-8



Endrine (both Switzerland and Finland)



76-44-8



Heptachlorine (both Switzerland and Finland)



1024-57-3



Epoxy-heptachlorine



118-74-1



Hexachlorobenzene (both Switzerland and Finland)



608-73-1



Hexachlorocyclohexane (HCH, all isomers) except gamma-hexachlorocyclohexane (except linande [58-89-9] in medical products)



465-73-6



Isodrin



4234-79-1



Kelevane



143-50-0



Kepone (Chlordecone)



58-89-8



Lindane



72-43-5



Methoxychlor



2385-85-5



Mirex (Finland only)



72-56-0



Perthane



82-68-8



Quintozene



8001-50-1



Strobane



297-78-9



Telodrin



8001-35-2



Toxaphene (both Switzerland and Finland)



1336-36-3 53469-21-9 and various



Halogenated biphenyls, including Polycholorinated biphenyl (PCB) (both Switzerland and Finland)



Various



Halogenated terphenols, including Polychlorinated terphenyl (PCT)



Various



Halogentaed naphthalenes



Various



Halogentaed diarylalkanes



99688-47-8 81161-70-8 76253-60-6



Halogenated diphenyl methanes, including Monomethyl-dibromo-diphenyl methane Monomethyl-dichloro-diphenyl methane Monomethyl-tetrachloro-diphenyl methane



87-86-5



Pentachlorophenol (PCP), its salts and compounds



25167-83-3



Tetrachlorophenol (TeCP), its salts and compounds



Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product Performance & Testing Procedures



Not Detected



Switzerland Legislated & Finland (those pesticides without indication are regulated under Switzerland)



8 June 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL



DIOXINS And FURANS Group 1 2,3,7,8-Tetrachlorodibenzo-p-dioxin 1,2,3,7,8-Pentachlorodibenzo-p-dioxin 2,3,7,8-Tetrachlorodibenzofuran 2,3,4,7,8-Pentachlorodibenzofuran



Sum of Group 1: 1 µg/kg



Group 2 1,2,3,4,7,8-Hexachlorodibenzo-p-dioxin 1,2,3,7,8,9-Hexachlorodibenzo-p-dioxin 1,2,3,6,7,8-Hexachlorodibenzo-p-dioxin 1,2,3,7,8-pentachlorodibenzofuran 1,2,3,4,7,8-Hexachlorodibenzofuran 1,2,3,7,8,9-Hexachlorodibenzofuran 1,2,3,6,7,8-Hexachlorodibenzofuran 2,3,4,6,7,8-Hexachlorodibenzofuran



Sum of Group 1 & 2: 5 µg/kg



35822-46-9 3268-87-9 67562-39-4 55673-89-7 39001-02-0



Group 3 1,2,3,4,6,7,8-Heptachlorodibenzo-p-dioxin 1,2,3,4,6,7,8,9-Octachlorodibenzo-p-dioxin 1,2,3,4,6,7,8-Heptachlorodibenzofuran 1,2,3,4,7,8,9-Heptachlorodibenzofuran 1,2,3,4,6,7,8,9-Octachlorodibenzofuran



Sum of Group 1, 2 & 3: 100 µg/kg



50585-41-6 109333-34-8 67933-57-7 131166-92-2



Group 4 2,3,7,8-Tetabromodibenzo-p-dioxin 1,2,3,7,8-Pentabromodibenzo-p-dlox n 2,3,7,8-Tetrabromodibenzofuran 2,3,4,7,8-Pentabromodibenzofuran



Sum of Group 4: 1 µg/kg



Group 5 1,2,3,4,7,8-Hexabromodibenzo-p-dioxin 1,2,3,7,8,9-Hexabromodibenzo-p-dioxin 1,2,3,6,7,8-Hexabromodibenzo-p-dioxin 1,2,3,7,8-Pentabromodibenzofuran



Sum of Group 4 & 5:



1746-01-6 40321-76-4 51207-31-9 57117-31-4 39227-28-6 19408-74-3 57653-85-7 57117-41-6 70648-26-9 72918-21-9 57117-44-9 60851-34-5



107555-93-1 no CAS #'s available



Germany



Legislated



US EPA 8290



All raw materials shipped by 9/1/08 and finished product by 11/1/08



5 µg/kg



ASBESTOS 77536-66-4 12172-73-5 77536-67-5 12001-29-5 12001-28-4 77536-68-6



Actinolite Amosite Anthrophyllite Chrysotile Crocidolite Tremolite



2551-62-4



Sulphur hexafluoride - S F 6



Not etected



European Union



Legislated



Microscopic All raw materials shipped by examination; 9/1/08 and finished product minimum by 11/1/08 magnification 1 250, polarized light filter attached; ratio of fiber length to diameter is at least 3:1



FLUORINATED GREENHOUSE GASES Hydrofluorocarbons (HFCs): 75-46-7



Not detected



European Union



HFC-32 - CH2F2



593-53-3



HFC-41 - CH3F



138495-42-8



HFC-43-10mee - C5H2F 1 0



354-33-6



HFC-125 - C2HF5



359-35-3



HFC-134 - C2H2F4



811-97-2



HFC-134a - C H 2F C F 3



75-37-6



HFC-152a - C2H4F2



420-46-2 470-46-6



European Union HFC-143a - C2H3F3



431-89-0



HFC-227ea - C3HF7



Headspace for GC/MS



All raw materials shipped by 9/1/08 and finished product by 11/1/08



Thermal Adsorption GC/MS



HFC-23 - CHF 3



75-10-5



Legislated



HFC-236cb - CH2F C F 2CF3 431-63-0



HFC-236ea - CHF 2CHFCF 3



690-39-1



HFC-236fa - C3H2F6



679-86-7



HFC-245ca - C3H3F5



460-73-1



HFC-245fa - CHF 2C H 2CF3



Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product Performance & Testing Procedures



9 June 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL 406-58-6



HFC-365mfc - CF3CH2CF2CH3 Per-fluorocarbons (PFCs):



75-73-0



Perfluoromethane - CF4



76-16-4



Pertluoroethane - C2F6



76-19-7



Perfluoropropane - C3F8



355-25-9



Perfluorobutane - C4F10



67-8-26-2



Perfluoropentane - C5F12



355-42-0



Pertluorohaxane - C6F14



115-25-3



Perfluorocyclobutane - c-C4F8



85535-84-8



Chlorinated paraffins (C10-C13)



May not be used



European Legislated Union



59536-65-1



Polybrominated biphenyls (PBBs)



May not be used



European Legislated Union



32534-81-9



Penta-bromodiphenyl ether (pentaBDE)



May not be used



European Legislated Union



32536-52-0



Octa-bromodiphenyl ether (octaBDE)



126-72-7



Tris (2,3-dibromopropyl) phosphate (TRIS)



Not Detected



European Legislated Union



5412-25-9



Bis (2,3-dibromopropyl) phosphate



Not Detected



Japan



545-55-1



Tris (1-aziridinyl)-phosphine oxide (TEPA)



Not Detected



European Legislated Union



1163-19-5



Decabromodiphenyl ether (DecaBDE)



0.1% by weight Sweden



FLAME RETARDANTS



Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product Performance & Testing Procedures



Solvent extraction Immediate and GC-MS or LC-MS Methanol extraction: analysis by GCMS or LC-MS Solvent extraction and analysis by GC-MS or LC-MS



Legislated



Legislated



10 June 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL METALS Restrictions for Textiles 7440-43-9



Cadmium (Cd)



100 ppm



Netherlands Legislated



Total Digestion



18540-29-9



Chromium (Cr+6) – hexavalent



Not detected Germany (below detection limits - see test method)



Legislated



7439-92-1



Lead (Pb)



PVC 30 ppm PU 100 ppm



United States



Total Legislated digestion San Francisco Superior Court, 317256, CGC-02403328, and CGC-05440721



Immediate



DIN 53314; C18 filtration and reanalysis of all positive results



Restrictions for Leather 7440-43-9



Cadmium (Cd)



100 ppm



Netherlands



Legislated



Total digestion



7439-92-1



Lead (Pb)



100 ppm



Denmark



Legislated



Total digestion



18540-29-9



Chromium (Cr+6) - hexavalent



Not detected Germany (below detection limits - see test method)



Legislated



DIN 53314; C18 filtration and reanalysis of all positive results.



Immediate



Restrictions for Metal Parts 7439-92-1



Lead (Pb)



100 ppm



Denmark



Legislated



Total digestion



7440-02-0



Nickel (Ni) (in metal items)



0.5 µg/cm2/week



European Union



Legislated



Nickel release by Immediate EN 1811 Abrasion of coated items by EN 12472



Immediate



60 ppm 25 ppm 1000 ppm 75 ppm 60 ppm 90 ppm 60 ppm 500 ppm



European Union



Legislated



EN 71, Part III ASTM F963



Immediate



Immediate



Restrictions for Heavy Metals 7440-43-9 7440-43-9 18540-29-9 7439-92-1



Antimony Arsenic Barium Cadmium Chromium Lead Mercury Selenium



Restrictions for Plastics, Plastic Film, Surface Coatings and Printing 7440-43-9



Cadmium (Cd)



100 ppm



European Union



Legislated



EN 1122



7439-92-1



Lead (Pb) in Paint/Surface Coating



600 ppm



CPSC



Legislated



Lead in PU 16 CFR 1303; ASTM E613/1645 All raw materials shipped by (mod.) 9/1/08.,and finished product EPA 3051B/3051 by 11/1/08



7439-92-1



Lead (Pb) in PVC Handbag, small leather goods, picture frame, 200 ppm mirror compact, jewelry, trinket box, season ornaments Gloves, scarves, hats, socks, footwear, hair accessories, belts, sunglasses, reading glasses



7439-92-1



Lead (Pb) in PU



Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product Performance & Testing Procedures



Ca Prop 65 Legislated San Francisco Superior Court, 317256, CGC-02403328, and CGC-05440721



30 ppm



100 ppm



Germany



Legislated



EPA 3051B/3051



11 June 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Restrictions for Adult Jewelry 7439-92-1



Lead (Pb) No requirement Ca Prop 65 Legislated



Class 1



EPA 3051B/3051



Immediate



Class 2 Other Metal (Electroplated)



100,000 ppm 60,000 ppm



Other Metal (Unplated)



After 12/31//08



15,000 ppm



Plastic/rubber(including PVC)



600 ppm 200 ppm



Dyes & Surface Coating



600 ppm



After 12/31//08



Class 3 Not Class 1 or 2



600 ppm



ORGANOTIN COMPOUNDS 56573-85-4



Tributyltin (TBT)



Not Detected (0.5 ppm each)



668-34-8



Triphenyltin (TPhT)



50-00-0



Formaldehyde 0-36 months



Not detected (below detection limits - see test method)



Japan



Legislated



ISO 14184-1 or JIS L1041 (Law 112) or DIN 53315



>36 months (with direct skin contact



75 ppm



Japan



Legislated



ISO 14184-1 or JIS L1041 (Law 112) or DIN 53315



Phthalates Dibutyl phthalate (DBP) Butyl benzyl phthalate (BBP) Di-2-ethylhexyl phthalate (DEHP) Di-n-ocyl phthalate (DNOP) Di-iso-decyl-phthalate (DIDP) Di-iso-nonyl phthalate (DINP)



10% (60 sec.) Recovery: 85% Growth: 5% For samples with elastic content < 10% (1hr.) Recovery: 70%; Growth: 7% Length x width (max. %) Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Rayon/blends -5/+5 Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: -7/+3 x 7/+3 Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x-10/+3 Poly/Nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x -3/+3 Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3 x -8/+3 Sweaters: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Length x Width (max.%) -3/+2 x -3/+2 Sweaters: -5/+2 x -5/+2 Color change: 4 Self-staining: 4.5 No visual change in appearance



Stretch only One color only



Length x Width (max.%) -3/+2 x -3/+2



One color only (not required for sweaters)



One color only Washable fabrics; Dryclean only (hand wash)



One color only Dryclean fabrics One color only



15 June 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL



Fabric Testing - Development (If requested) st



Number of Samples Required for Testing: 2.5 yards 1 color, minimum width 36” 1 yard each additional color, minimum width 36” Any fabric submitted for testing must be representative of all finishing processes it will be subject to during manufacturing (i.e.: durable water repellents, sanding/brushing, flocking, printing, etc). For washed programs (such as indigo-dyed denim and heavy garment washed fabrics): • The fabric supplier/manufacturer is responsible for the charges incurred in testing the fabric “before-wash/finish”. • Ann Taylor is responsible for the charges incurred in testing the fabric “after-wash/finish”. • The garment manufacturer is responsible for the charges incurred in testing the garments after the wash/finish. Basic Development Test Package • *Dimensional stability and Appearance after 3 launderings or 1 dryclean • *Dimensional stability after steam press • Fabric count • Fabric weight • Fiber content • Flammability (see “Performance Specifications—Flammability” for details) • *pH–denim, leather, washed garments • Bursting strength (knits) • Pile retention (corduroy, velvet, velour only) • Pilling resistance (knits / wovens) • Abrasion—denims only • Seam slippage (wovens) • Spirality (knits) / Torqueing (wovens) • Stretch and Recovery (fabrics containing stretch fibers, such as Spandex, Lastol, Elasterell-p ) • Tearing strength (wovens / leather) • Tensile strength (wovens / leather) • Yarn size (only if requested) • Spray Test—only if claiming “water repellent” • Rain Test—only if classifying as “Rainwear” * For washed programs—these tests are not needed in the “before-wash” state.



See “Performance Specification Sheets/Test Protocols” for standards and test methods.



Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product Performance & Testing Procedures



16 June 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL



PRODUCTION TESTING The Production Testing Program has been established to test products and evaluate specific performance characteristics of trim, yarn, textile, or garment prior to shipment. Note: if the final fabric has mechanical (wash)/chemical finish, the basic test package must be performed on finished fabric.



Trim Component Testing (including test protocols) All trim components, both functional and decorative (with the exception of adult Coats, Ideal & YKK zipper components), are required to be tested in accordance with the following protocols.



Non-metallic Trim (page 1 of 2)



Specification #812



Examples: buttons, ball stoppers, etc. (Excluding: metal, rubber, soft plastic, fabric, leather) Minimum sample requirement: 1 Gross (144 pieces) Required standard Class 1



Required test Flammability (fabric trims)



Test Method 16 CFR 1610



Appearance After Laundering/ Drycleaning



AATCC 150 No breaking, cracking, 5X Home chipping or dulling of the Laundering surface (machine wash warm, tumble dry medium)



If failures, may need to test additional sizes/shapes.



AATCC158 3X Commercial Drycleaning



Steam press



Color fastness to washing Color fastness to drycleaning Colorfastness to crocking



Coteco



Notes One color only (see “Performance Specifications - Flammability for details) Test any one color, three representative sizes/shapes (i.e. large, medium, small, circle, square, heart, etc.)



Staining min. 4.5 No visual change in appearance



Does not have to be performed if the colorfastness tests under “dyed to match” are performed. Test any one color, at least three representative sizes/shapes (i.e. large, medium, small)



If dyed to match (instead of internal dyed) add the following tests (test all colors): AATCC 61 Color change: min. 4 Test all colors, at least three IIA Staining: min. 4 representative sizes/shapes (i.e. large, medium, small) AATCC 132 Color change: min. 4 Test all colors, at least three Staining: min. 4 representative sizes (i.e. large, medium, small) AATCC 116 Dry: min. 4.5 Test all colors, Wet: min. 4 any one size



Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product Performance & Testing Procedures



17 June 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Non-metallic Trim (page 2 of 2)



Specification #812



Excluding metal, rubber, soft plastic, fabric, leather If coated or painted



add the following tests



Required test Lead content



Heavy Metals



Nickel Test



Required standard



Test Method 16 CFR 1303 ASTM E1613/E1645 (Mod.) EN 71, Part III ASTM F963



EN 1811 EN12472 (report results with and without coating)



No more than 0.06% (600 ppm) lead content based on the weight of the dried paint or coating film Antimony: 60 Arsenic: 25 Barium: 1000 Cadmium: 75 Chromium: 60 Lead: 90 Mercury: 60 Selenium: 500 Transfer to skin less than 0.5. micrograms per square centimeter per week



Notes All colors



Must not exceed these limits (ppm) for soluble migrated element



Only if supplier indicated that the item is “nickel-free”. (Nickel is possible in coatings or special colors)



If material contains PVC or PU (including PVC or neoprene rain suits and coats, and decals and attachments on clothing)



Required Test Lead Content



Test Method



Required Standard



EPA 3051 (Modified) (San Francisco Superior Court, 317256, CGC-02-403328, and CGC-05-440721)



PVC 30 ppm PU 100 ppm



Notes All colors



If Button



add the following tests



Center Strength a. Shank/2 & 4 holes plastic & wooden buttons



BS 4162 Section 4.0 (modified)



Up to 16 ligne: 16 lbf Up to 25 ligne: 20 lbf Larger than 25 ligne: 30 lbf



b. Shell buttons



15 lbf



c. Horn button



18 lbf



Test all shapes/sizes. One color only.



If Snap



add the following test



Snap Action



ASTM D4846 BV-S 1045



Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product Performance & Testing Procedures



Min: 2 lbs Max: 5 lbs



Test all sizes/shapes. One color only.



18 June 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Trim made of metal



Specification #813



Minimum sample requirement: 1 Gross (144 pieces) Required test



Required standard



Test Method



Notes



Corrosion Resistance



ASTM B117 G85 (Mod) 24 hours in 1% Salt Spray (Fog)



No visual change in appearance No signs of staining, corrosion, oxidation or discoloration.



Test any one size All colors and finishes



Nickel test



EN 1811 EN 12472 Report results with and without coating



Transfer to skin less than 0.5 micrograms per square centimeter per week



Only if supplier indicated that the item is “nickel-free”.



Heavy Metals



EN 71, Part III ASTM F963



Antimony: 60 Arsenic: 25 Barium: 1000 Cadmium: 75 Chromium: 60 Lead: 90 Mercury: 60 Selenium: 500



Must not exceed these limits (ppm) for soluble migrated element



If coated or painted add the following tests Lead content



16 CFR 1303 ASTM E1613/E1645 (Mod.)



Appearance After Laundering/ Drycleaning



AATCC 150 5X Home Laundering (machine wash warm, tumble dry medium)



No more than 0.06% (600 ppm) lead content based on the weight of the dried paint or coating film No cracking, chipping or dulling of the surface



All colors



Test any one color, three representative sizes (i.e. large, medium, small) Note: Trim to be applied on fabric or mock-up garment after testing.



AATCC158 3X Commercial Drycleaning



If material contains PVC or PU (including PVC or neoprene rain suits and coats, and decals and attachments on clothing)



Required Test Lead Content



Test Method



Required Standard



EPA 3051 (Modified) (San Francisco Superior Court, 317256, CGC-02-403328, and CGC-05-440721)



If Snap Add the following test Snap Action BV S1045



Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product Performance & Testing Procedures



Min: 2 lbs Max: 5 lbs



PVC 30 ppm PU 100 ppm



Notes All Colors



Test all sizes. One color only.



19 June 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Zippers (page 1 of 2)



Specification #814



Use: A = jeans, B= bottoms, C= dresses/tops, D= outerwear (for pockets “C” can be used)



Minimum sample requirement: 120 (at least 6” in length)



Required test



Crosswise chain strength Top stop holding



Test Method



Required Standard (lbf) Use Use Use Use A B C D



Notes



80



60



50



75



20



16



16



20



Bottom stop holding (stringer separation)



ASTM 2061 (14.1) ASTM 2061 (22.2) ASTM 2061 (22.5)



16



12



12



20



Non separating zipper only. Lower standards are acceptable if zipper bottom is secured by appropriate sewing in garment.



Fixed retainer pull off Separable pin pull off Holding strength of slider lock



ASTM 2061 (30.2) ASTM 2061 (30.1) ASTM 2061 (82-91)



NA



NA



16



20



Separating zippers only.



NA



NA



16



20



Separating zippers only.



12



6



4



7



Only if locking slider. Report any failure Examine all components after testing and report any damage (i.e. elements, etc.).



Color fastness to washing Color fastness to drycleaning



AATCC 61 IIA AATCC 132



Color change: min. 4 Staining: min. 4 Color change: min. 4 Staining: min. 4



Slider and stringer Test each color Slider and stringer Test each color.



Colorfastness to Crocking Colorfastness to Steam Press



ASTM 2054 AATCC 116 Coteco



Test each color. Tape only. Complete zipper Test each color



Operability



ASTM D2062



Dry: min. 4.5 Wet: min. 4 Staining min. 4.5 Color change: 4 and no visual change in appearance. No sticking



Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product Performance & Testing Procedures



Test 3 different zippers



20 June 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Zippers (page 2 of 2) Required test Nickel test



Specification #814



Test Method EN 1811 EN 12472 Report results with and without coating



Required Standard (lbf) Transfer to skin less than 0.5. micrograms per square centimeter per week



Notes Nickel is possible in coatings or special colors



AATCC 106 (modify if necessary)



Color change: min. 4 Staining: min. 4 Appearance: No visual change. Color change: min. 4 Appearance: No visual change



Stringer and slider Test each color.



No more than 0.06% (600 ppm) lead content based on the weight of the dried paint or coating film Maximums See “Accessories made of metal”



All colors



If used for swimwear Colorfastness and appearance after exposure to sea water Colorfastness and appearance after exposure to chlorinated pool water



AATCC 162



Stringer and slider Test each color.



If painted or coated Add the following tests Lead content



16 CFR 1303 ASTM E1613/E1645 (mod.)



Heavy Metals



ASTM F963 EN 71, Part III



If metal--all with or without surface coating. If coated, test coating in each color.



If material contains PVC or PU (including PVC or neoprene rain suits and coats, and decals and attachments on clothing)



Required Test Lead Content



Test Method



Required Standard



EPA 3051 (Modified) (San Francisco Superior Court, 317256, CGC-02-403328, and CGC-05-440721)



PVC 30 ppm PU 100 ppm



Notes All Colors



If made of metal Heavy Metals Corrosion Resistance



ASTM F963 EN 71 Part III ASTM B117 G85 (mod) 24 hrs in 1% salt spray (fog)



See above



See above



No visual change in appearance No signs of staining, corrosion, oxidation or discoloration.



Test any one size All colors and finishes



Note: Exempt from the above tests are Coats, Ideal Fasteners & YKK zipper components for adults.



Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product Performance & Testing Procedures



21 June 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Patches, appliqués, twill tapes etc. (Page 1 of 2)



Specification #815



Made of fibers, including velcro, dyed elastic, leather patches, etc. Minimum sample requirement: 1 yard (if in fabric form of at least 40” in width) OR 4 yards (taping) Required test Colorfastness and appearance after washing



Colorfastness and appearance after drycleaning



Colorfastness to crocking



Test method



Required Standard



AATCC 61, IIA Color change: min. 4 Staining: min. 4 Self staining: min. 4.5 No visual change in appearance AATCC 132 Color change: min. 4 Staining: min. 4 Self staining: min. 4.5 No visual change in appearance AATCC 8 Dry: min. 4 or Wet: min. 3 AATCC 116 If item is too small



Notes Test all colors



Test all colors



Test all colors Report which test procedure was used



If item is a tape, ribbon, elastic, etc. add the following tests: Dimensional stability to laundering



AATCC 135



Dimensional stability to drycleaning



AATCC 158



Report actual shrinkage. Acceptance depends on compatibility with fabric in specific garment Report actual shrinkage. Acceptance depends on compatibility with fabric in specific garment



Test one color only Three launderings



Test one color only One drycleaning only



If used on inside of garment add the following test: Color fastness to perspiration



AATCC 15



Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product Performance & Testing Procedures



Color change: min. 3.5 Staining: min. 4



Example: neck tape, etc. Test all colors.



22 June 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Patches, appliqués, twill tapes etc. (page 2 of 2)



Specification #815



Made of fibers, including velcro, dyed elastic, etc.



If used in swimwear add the following tests: Required test



Test method



Colorfastness and AATCC 106 appearance after exposure to sea water Colorfastness and AATCC 162 appearance after exposure to chlorinated pool water



Required Std.



Notes



Color change: min. 4 Staining: min. 4 Self staining: min. 4.5 No visible change in appearance Color change: min. 4 No visible change in appearance



Test all colors



Test all colors



If material contains PVC or PU (including PVC or neoprene rain suits and coats, and decals and attachments on clothing)



Required Test



Lead Content



Test Method



EPA 3051 (Modified) (San Francisco Superior Court, 317256, CGC02-403328, and CGC-05-440721)



Down and Feather Testing



Required Standard



Notes



PVC 30 ppm PU 100 ppm



All Colors



Specification #816



Minimum sample requirement: 300 grams of down and one garment or mock-up. Required Test PENETRATION RESISTANCE FEATHER/DOWN COMPOSITION



FILL POWER OXYGEN NUMBER TURBIDITY



Test Method IDFB, Method 5530 FTM 191, Method 5530 (mod.) IDFB Method 3 Fed Standard 148a



IDFB 10, IDFB 32 (tumble dry method) IDFB 21 IDFB 22



Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product Performance & Testing Procedures



Required standard



Notes



Minimum 4



Fabric against actual filling One color only



No more than: 10% down fiber 10% feather fibers 2% landfowl feathers 2% damaged feathers 2% residue Minimum 550 cubic inches/oz Less than 10



For labeling, “USA Standards Down and Feather Products Labeling Guidelines”



Minimum 550 mm



23 June 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Rubber and soft plastic patches



Specification #817



Minimum sample requirement: 40 pieces Required test



Test number



Colorfastness and appearance after washing



AATCC 61 IIA



Colorfastness and appearance after drycleaning Ageing under hot/humid conditions Ageing under cold conditions



Phthalates (in PVC)



Required Standard



Color change: min. 4 Staining: min. 4 No brittleness, cracking or chipping AATCC 132 Color change: min. 4 Staining: min. 4 No brittleness, cracking or chipping 48 hrs under No discoloration, staining, 50C (120F) and brittleness, cracking or 95% rh chipping 48 hrs under 0 No brittleness, cracking or C (32 F) chipping



Cadmium Content



Solvent extraction with LC-MS or GCMS Analysis EN 1122



BHT content



ASTM 4275



6.1 oz/sq yard: 40 Lining/pocketing: 20 lbs (min. lbs) Fabric Weight: 6.1 oz/sq yard: 3.0 Lining: 1.8 Pocketing: 2.0 (min. lbs) 15 Lining: 15 Pocketing: 20 Minimum All others: 3.5 Brushed/peached: 3 Polyester/nylon: 3



3.5 3.5 Minimum (psi) Fabric Weight: 6.1 oz/sq yard: 55 Lace: 35



One color only Wovens: one color only



Wovens: one color only



Wovens: one color only



Knit/woven: One color only Knits only: If failure, test 2 additional colors.



Knits: One color only



Minimum Color change: 4 Color staining: 3.5 Self-staining: 4.5



All colors (as applicable)



Minimum Color change: 4 Minimum Color change: 4 Minimum Color change: 4 Color staining: 3.5 Self-staining: 4.5 Minimum (wet/dry) Light: 3/4 Medium/dark: 2.5/3.5 Pigment/ Sulfur 2/3 Sueded (brushed, peached, sanded) Minimum Light/neutral colors: 3.5 All others: 4



Washable fabrics; All colors Washable fabrics; All colors All colors



All colors (except white) Lab discretion on light colors and certain neutrals All colors (except lining/pocketing fabrics)



55 June 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL GARMENT TESTING Required test DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO WASHING/DRYCLEANING



Required standard



Test Method AATCC 150, 3 cycles (as per care instructions)



AATCC 158, 1 cycle APPEARANCE AFTER WASHING/ DRYCLEANING



AATCC 150/158, as per care (3 cycles/ 1 cycle)



TWISTING AFTER LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING SEAM STRETCHABILITY



AATCC 179 Method 1, Option 2 AATCC TS 015



SEAM STRENGTH/SLIPPAGE



ASTM D1683 BV S1027 BV S1029



TRIM PERFORMANCE (Button Attachment strength Snap attachment strength Hook & Eye/Bar attachment strength) ZIPPER TEST



BV S1023 BV S1044 (not limited to buttons and snaps) ASTM D2061



Length x Width (max. %) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Knits: Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Rayon/blends -5/+5 Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: -7/+3 X -7/+3 Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x10/+3 Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x -3/+3 Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3 Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2 Color change: 4 Self-staining: 4.5 No visual change in appearance Woven: 3% Knit: 5% 7.0 lbs or 50% elongation Seams/Stress points: 15 Pockets (Decorative/Functional): 5/10 Pleats/belt loops: 10 Lining: 15 Minimum (lbs): 15



CARE INSTRUCTIONS



16 CFR 423



Zipper Operability Chain Crosswise Strength Top Stop Holding Holding Strength of slider lock Bottom Stop Holding (if applicable) Note: See spec. #814 for requirements. Verify all care label claims



FIBER CONTENT



16 CFR 303



Verify all fiber content claims



Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product Performance & Testing Procedures



Notes



Knits only All seams Actual seams; all seams



All on garment



All zipper brands



56 June 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL



SUITS/COORDINATES (#003) (CAREER/CASUAL) FABRIC TESTING Required test PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS FABRIC WEIGHT (oz/sq yard) FABRIC COUNT FIBER CONTENT



Required standard



Test Method



Page 1 of 3 Notes



ASTM D3776



+/- 5%



One color only



ASTM D3775/D3887 AATCC 20/20A



One color only One color only



ASTMD276/629



+/- 5% Single Fiber:-no tolerance Blends: -+/- 3%



ASTM D1059



+/- 10%



Non-stretch upon request (one color only)



Negative



One color only



pH



Spot Test MTL C1007 If positive, proceed with JIS L1041 AATCC 81



DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO WASHING



AATCC 135, 3 cycles (as per care instructions)



YARN SIZE



PERFORMANCE FORMALDEHYDE



75 ppm



For “dryclean only” fabrics: Hand wash, line dry or flat dry



DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO DRYCLEANING



AATCC 158, 1 cycle



APPEARANCE AFTER WASHING/DRYCLEANING



AATCC 135/158, as per care (3 cycles/ 1 cycle)



DIMENSIONAL STABILITY /APPEARANCE AFTER STEAM PRESS



Coteco



Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product Performance & Testing Procedures



White (bleached), Wool/wool blends: 4.5-7 Others: 6-8



All colors



Length x Width (max. %) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Knits: Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Rayon/blends -5/+5 Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: -7/+3 X -7/+3 Thermal/Waffle: -10/+3 X10/+3 Poly/nylon/silk/others: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3 Length x Width (max. %) Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2 Color change: 4 Self-staining: 4.5 No visual change in appearance No visual change in appearance Length x Width (max %) Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2



Woven: One color only Knits: All colors Washable fabrics; Dryclean only (hand wash)



Woven: -One color only Knits: All colors Dryclean fabrics Additional evaluation of sample(s) tested for dimensional stability. One color only



57 June 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Required test Performance (cont’d) TWISTING AFTER LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING TENSILE STRENGTH



AATCC 179 Method 1, Option 2 ASTM D5034



TEAR STRENGTH



ASTM D1424



SEAM SLIPPAGE/STRENGTH



ASTM D434 (6 mm slippage and strength) Prototype seam ASTM D3512 Random Tumble Knits: 30 minutes Wovens: 1 hour



PILLING



BURSTING STRENGTH



COLORFASTNESS COLORFASTNESS TO LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING



COLORFASTNESS TO NONCHLORINE BLEACH COLORFASTNESS TO CHLORINE BLEACH COLORFASTNESS TO PERSPIRATION



Suits/Coordinates #003, Page 2 of 3 Required standard Notes



Test Method



Woven: 3% Knit: 5% (min. lbs) General fabrics: Fabric Weight: < 4 oz/sq yard: 25 4.1-6 oz/sq yard: 30 >6.1 oz/sq yard: 40 Lining/pocketing: 20 (min. lbs) General fabrics: Fabric Weight: 6.1 oz/sq yard: 3.0 Lining: 1.8 Pocketing: 2.0 (min. lbs) 15 Lining: 15 Pocketing: 20 Minimum All others: 3.5 Brushed/peached: 3 Polyester/nylon: 3



BS EN ISO 12945 Part 1 Specialty animal fibers: 2 hrs Other animal fibers: 4 hrs ASTM D3786



AATCC 61 / AATCC 132 1A - hand wash 2A - machine wash 40 C - cold 49 C - warm AATCC TS-001 AATCC TS-001 AATCC 15



Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product Performance & Testing Procedures



3.5 3.5 Minimum (psi) Fabric Weight: 6.1 oz/sq yard: 55



One color only Wovens: one color only



Wovens: one color only



Wovens: one color only



Knit/woven: One color only Knits only: If failure, test 2 additional colors.



Knits: One color only



Minimum Color change: 4 Color staining: 3.5 Self-staining: 4.5



All colors (as applicable)



Minimum Color change: 4 Minimum Color change: 4 Minimum Color change: 4 Color staining: 3.5 Self-staining: 4.5



Washable fabrics: All colors Washable fabrics: All colors All colors



58 June 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Suits/Coordinates #003, Page 3 of 3 Colorfastness (con’t) COLORFASTNESS TO CROCKING



COLORFASTNESS TO LIGHT



GARMENT TESTING Required test DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO WASHING/DRYCLEANING



AATCC 8, 116



Minimum (wet/dry) Light: 3/4 Medium/dark: 2.5/3.5 Pigment/ Sulfur 2/3 Sueded (brushed, peached, sanded) Minimum Light/neutral colors: 3.5 All others: 4



AATCC 16 Option 3, 20 hours Silk: 10 hours



Required standard



Test Method AATCC 150, 3 cycles (as per care instructions)



AATCC 158, 1 cycle



APPEARANCE AFTER WASHING/ DRYCLEANING



AATCC 150/158, as per care (3 cycles/ 1 cycle)



TWISTING AFTER LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING SEAM STRETCHABILITY



AATCC 179 Method 1, Option 2 AATCC TS 015



SEAM STRENGTH/SLIPPAGE



ASTM D1683 BV S 1027 BV S 1029



TRIM PERFORMANCE



BV S1023 BV S1044 (not limited to buttons and snaps)



(Button Attachment strength Snap attachment strength Hook & Eye/Bar attachment strength) ZIPPER TEST



ASTM D2061



Length x Width (max. %) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Knits: Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Rayon/blends -5/+5 Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: 7/+3 x -7/+3 Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x -10/+3 Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x 3/+3 Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3 Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2 Color change: 4 Self-staining: 4.5 No visual change in appearance Woven: 3% Knit: 5% 7.0 lbs or 50% elongation Minimum (lbs) Seams/stress points: 15 Pockets (decorative/functional): 5/10 Pleats/belt loops: 10 Lining: 15 Minimum (lbs): 15



CARE INSTRUCTIONS



16 CFR 423



Zipper Operability Chain Crosswise Strength Top Stop Holding Holding Strength of slider lock Bottom Stop Holding (if applicable) Note: See spec. # 814 for requirements. Verify all care label claims



FIBER CONTENT



16 CFR 303



Verify all fiber content claims



Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product Performance & Testing Procedures



All colors (except white) Lab discretion on light colors and certain neutrals



All colors (except lining/pocketing fabrics)



Notes



Knits only All seams Actual seams; all seams



All on garment



All zipper brands



59 June 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL



OUTERWEAR (#004) FABRIC TESTING Required test PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS FABRIC WEIGHT (oz/sq yard) FABRIC COUNT FIBER CONTENT



Required standard



Test Method



ASTM D3776



+/- 5%



One color only



ASTM D3775/D3887 AATCC 20/20A



+/- 5% Single Fiber: No tolerance Blends: +/- 3% +/- 10%



One color only One color only



Negative



One color only



ASTMD276/629 YARN SIZE



Page 1 of 3 Notes



ASTM D1059



Non-stretch upon request (one color only)



PERFORMANCE FORMALDEHYDE



pH



Spot Test MTL C1007 If positive, proceed with JIS L1041 AATCC 81



FLAMMABILITY



16 CFR 1610



DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO WASHING



AATCC 135, 3 cycles (as per care instructions)



75 ppm White (bleached), Wool/wool blends: 4.5-7 Others: 6-8 Class 1



For “dryclean only” fabrics: Hand wash, line dry or flat dry



DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO DRYCLEANING



AATCC 158, 1 cycle



APPEARANCE AFTER WASHING/DRYCLEANING



AATCC 135/158, as per care (3 cycles/ 1 cycle)



DIMENSIONAL STABILITY /APPEARANCE AFTER STEAM PRESS



Coteco



Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product Performance & Testing Procedures



Length x Width (max. %) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Knits: Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Rayon/blends -5/+5 Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: -7/+3 x -7/+3 Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x 10/+3 Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x -3/+3 Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3 Length x Width (max. %) Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2 Color change: 4 Self-staining: 4.5 No visual change in appearance No visual change in appearance Length x Width (max %) Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2



All colors



One color only (See “Performance SpecificationsFlammability for details) Woven: One color only Knits: All colors Washable fabrics; Dryclean only (hand wash)



Woven: One color only Knits: All colors Dryclean fabrics Additional evaluation of sample(s) tested for dimensional stability. One color only



60 June 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Required test Performance (cont’d) TWISTING AFTER LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING TENSILE STRENGTH



AATCC 179 Method 1, Option 2 ASTM D5034



TEAR STRENGTH



ASTM D1424



SEAM SLIPPAGE/STRENGTH



ASTM D434 (6 mm slippage and strength) Prototype seam ASTM D3512 Random Tumble Knits: 30 minutes Wovens: 1 hour



PILLING



Outerwear #004, Page 2 of 3 Required standard Notes



Test Method



Woven: 3% Knit: 5% (min. lbs) General fabrics: Fabric Weight: < 6 oz/sq yard: 40 >6.1 oz/sq yard: 50 Lining/pocketing: 20 (min. lbs) General fabrics: Fabric Weight: 6.1 oz/sq yard: 3.0 Lining: 1.8 Pocketing: 2.0 (min. lbs) 25 Lining: 15 Pocketing: 20 Minimum All others: 3.5 Brushed/peached: 3 Polyester/nylon: 3



BURSTING STRENGTH



BS EN ISO 12945 Part 1 Specialty animal fibers:2 hrs Other animal fibers: 4 hrs ASTM D3786



COLORFASTNESS COLORFASTNESS TO WATER



AATCC 107



COLORFASTNESS TO LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING



COLORFASTNESS TO NONCHLORINE BLEACH COLORFASTNESS TO CHLORINE BLEACH COLORFASTNESS TO PERSPIRATION



AATCC 61/ AATCC 132 1A - hand wash 2A - machine wash 40C - cold 49 C - warm AATCC TS-001 AATCC TS-001 AATCC 15



COLORFASTNESS TO CROCKING



AATCC 8, 116



COLORFASTNESS TO LIGHT



AATCC 16 Option 3 20 hours



Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product Performance & Testing Procedures



3.5 3.5 Minimum (psi) Fabric Weight: 6.1 oz/sq yard: 55



One color only Wovens: One color only



Wovens: One color only



Wovens: One color only



Knit/woven: One color only Knits only: If failure, test 2 additional colors.



Knits: One color only



Minimum Color change: 4 Color staining: 3.5 Self-staining: 4.5 Minimum Color change: 4 Color staining: 3.5 Self-staining: 4.5



All colors (except white)



Minimum Color change: 4 Minimum Color change: 4 Minimum Color change: 4 Color staining: 3.5 Self-staining: 4.5 Minimum (wet/dry) Light: 3/4 Medium/dark: 2.5/3.5 Pigment/ Sulfur 2/3 Sueded (brushed, peached, sanded) Minimum Light/neutral colors: 3.5 All others: 4



Washable fabrics; all colors



All colors (as applicable)



Washable fabrics; all colors All colors



All colors (except white) Lab discretion on light colors and certain neutrals



All colors (except lining/pocketing fabrics)



61 June 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL GARMENT TESTING Required test DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO WASHING/ DRYCLEANING



Test Method AATCC 150, 3 cycles (as per care instructions)



Required standard



APPEARANCE AFTER WASHING/ DRYCLEANING TWISTING AFTER LAUNDERING/DRY CLEANING



AATCC 150/158, as per care (3 cycles/ 1 cycle)



Length x Width (max. %) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Knits: Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Rayon/blends -5/+5 Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: -7/+3 x -7/+3 Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x -10/+3 Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x -3/+3 Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3 Length x Width (max. %) Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2 Color change: 4 Self-staining: 4.5 No visual change in appearance



AATCC 179 Method 1, Option 2



Woven: 3% Knit: 5%



SEAM STRETCHABILITY



AATCC TS 015



7.0 lbs or 50% elongation



SEAM STRENGTH/SLIPPAGE



ASTM D1683 BV S 1027 BV S1029



DOWNPROOFNESS



IDFL 5530 (Tumbling Method) FTM 191, Method 5530 (modified) BV S1023 BV S1044 (not limited to buttons and snaps)



Seams: 25 Stress Points: 20 Pockets (decorative/functional): 10/20 Pleats/belt loops: 10 Lining; 15 Minimum 4



For “dryclean only” fabrics: Hand wash, line dry or flat dry



AATCC 158, 1 cycle



TRIM PERFORMANCE (Button Attachment strength Snap attachment strength Hook & Eye/Bar attachment strength) ZIPPER TEST



ASTM D2061



Knits only All seams Actual seams; all seams



If down product



Minimum (lbs): 15



All on garment



All zipper brands



CARE INSTRUCTIONS



16 CFR 423



Zipper Operability Chain Crosswise Strength Top Stop Holding Holding Strength of slider lock Bottom Stop Holding (if applicable) Note: See spec. # 814 for requirements. Verify all care label claims



FIBER CONTENT



16 CFR 303



Verify all fiber content claims



Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product Performance & Testing Procedures



Notes



62 June 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL



DENIM APPAREL (#005) Page 1 of 3



(All tests are to be done after the final wash treatment) Note: For “before-wash” required tests, see “Textile Production Testing”, pages 20-21



FABRIC TESTING Required test PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS



Required standard



Test Method



FABRIC WEIGHT (oz/sq yard) FABRIC COUNT



ASTM D3776



+/- 5%



ASTM D3775/D3887



+/- 5%



FIBER CONTENT



AATCC 20/20A



Single Fiber: No tolerance Blends-: +/- 3% +/- 10%



ASTMD276/629 YARN SIZE



ASTM D1059



Notes



All washes, one color only All washes, one color only One color only Non-stretch upon request



PERFORMANCE FORMALDEHYDE



Spot Test MTL C1007



Negative



75 ppm



pH



If positive, proceed with JIS L1041 AATCC 81



FLAMMABILITY



16 CFR 1610



Class 1



DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO WASHING



AATCC 135, 3 cycles (as per care instructions)



Length x Width (max. %) -3/+3 x -3/+3



DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO DRYCLEANING



AATCC 158, 1 cycle



Length x Width (max. %) -2/+2 x -2/+2



APPEARANCE AFTER WASHING/DRYCLEANING



AATCC 135/158, as per care (3 cycles/ 1 cycle)



DIMENSIONAL STABILITY /APPEARANCE AFTER STEAM PRESS



Coteco



TWISTING AFTER LAUNDERING/ DRYCLEANING



AATCC 179 Method 1, Option 2



Color change: 4 Self-staining: 4.5 No visual change in appearance No visual change in appearance Length x Width (max %) -2/+2 x -2/+2 3%



Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product Performance & Testing Procedures



4.5-7



For all “washes” - one color only.



After final wash treatments; all “colors/washes” (See “Performance SpecificationsFlammability for details) Washable fabrics All washes, one color only. Dryclean fabrics All washes, one color only All washes, one color only



All washes, one color only



All washes, one color only



63 June 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Denim #005, Page 2 of 3



Required test Performance, con’t



Required standard



Test Method



(min. lbs) Fabric Weight: 12 oz/sq yard: 70 Lining/pocketing: 20 (min. lbs) Fabric Weight: 12: 6 Lining: 1.8 Pocketing: 2 (min. lbs) Fabric Weight: 6.1 oz/sq yard: 25 Lining: 15 Pocketing: 20 No rupture of yarn.



All washes, one color only



AATCC 61/ AATCC 132 Hand washables: 1A Machine washables: 2A Warm:49C Cold: 40C AATCC TS 001



Minimum: Color change: 4 Color staining: 3 Self-staining: 4.5 Minimum 4



All washes, all colors (as applicable)



AATCC TS 001



Minimum 4



AATCC 15



Minimum Color change: 4 Color staining: 3 Self-staining: 4.5 Minimum: Dry: 3; Wet 2 If dry crocking does not meet Class 3, or wet crocking class 2, wash 1X according to the care label of garment and repeat crocking test. Minimum Light colors: 3.5 All others: 4 Minimum 4 Minimum 4



TENSILE STRENGTH



ASTM D5034



TEAR STRENGTH



ASTM D1424 ASTM D2261 (>10 oz/yd2)



SEAM SLIPPAGE/ STRENGTH



ASTM D434 Prototype seam



ABRASION



ASTM D3886 300 cycles



COLORFASTNESS COLORFASTNESS TO LAUNDERING / DRYCLEANING COLORFASTNESS TO NONCHLORINE BLEACH COLORFASTNESS TO CHLORINE BLEACH COLORFASTNESS TO PERSPIRATION



COLORFASTNESS TO CROCKING



AATCC 8, 116



COLORFASTNESS TO LIGHT



AATCC 16 Option 3 20 hours AATCC 109 (1 cycle) AATCC 23 (1 cycle)



COLORFASTNESS TO OZONE COLORFASTNESS TO BURNT GAS FUMES



Notes



Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product Performance & Testing Procedures



All washes, one color only



All washes, one color only



All washes, one color only



Washable fabrics; All washes, all colors Washable fabrics; all washes, all colors All washes, all colors



All washes, all colors



All washes, all colors Except lining/ pocketing fabrics All washes, all colors All washes, all colors



64 June 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Denim #005, Page 3 of 3



GARMENT TESTING Required test



16 CFR 303



CARE LABEL



16 CFR 423



DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO HOME LAUNDERING/ DRYCLEANING COLORFASTNESS TO CROCKING



As per care instructions Laundering: 3 cycles Dryclean: 1cycle AATCC 8, 116



APPEARANCE AFTER LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING



As per care instructions Laundering: 3 cycles Dryclean: 1cycle AATCC 179 Method 1, Option 2 ASTM D1683 BV S1027 BV S1029



TWIST AFTER LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING SEAM STRENGTH/ SLIPPAGE



TRIM PERFORMANCE (Button Attachment strength Snap attachment strength Hook & Eye/Bar attachment strength) ZIPPER TEST



Required standard



Test Method



FIBER CONTENT



Compliance to regulation; Verification of label Compliance to regulation; Verification of label Length x Width (max %) Washing: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Dryclean: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Dry: 3; Wet: 2 Remark: If dry crocking does not meet Class 3, or wet crocking class 2, wash garment 1X according to the care label of garment and repeat crocking test. If the crocking improves to a satisfactory rating, the fabric can be accepted, provided that the care instruction is modified to include “wash before wearing” (before all other instructions). Color change: 4 No visible staining Appearance satisfactory Maximum 3%



BV S1023 BV S1044 (not limited to buttons and snaps) ASTM D2061



Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product Performance & Testing Procedures



Notes



All washes, all colors



Minimum (lbs) Fabric Weight: 8.1 oz/sq yard: 25 Pockets: 20 Belt loops: 10 Lining: 15 Minimum (lbs): 15



All seams



Zipper Operability Chain Crosswise Strength Top Stop Holding Holding Strength of slider lock Bottom Stop Holding (if applicable) Note: See spec. # 814 for requirements.



All zipper brands



All on garment



65 June 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL



INTIMATES (#006) (Including Bras, Camisoles, Panties) Page 1 of 3



FABRIC TESTING Required test PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS FABRIC WEIGHT (oz/sq yard) FABRIC COUNT FIBER CONTENT



Required standard



Test Method



Notes



ASTM D3776



+/- 5%



One color only



ASTM D3775/D3887 AATCC 20/20A



One color only One color only



ASTMD276/629



+/- 5% Single Fiber: No tolerance Blends: +/- 3%



ASTM D1059



+/- 10%



Non-stretch upon request (one color only)



Negative



One color only



pH



Spot Test MTL C1007 If positive, proceed with JIS L1041 AATCC 81



FLAMMABILITY



16 CFR 1610



DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO WASHING



AATCC 135, 3 cycles (as per care instructions)



YARN SIZE



PERFORMANCE FORMALDEHYDE



75 ppm White (bleached), wool/wool blends: 4.5-7 Others: 6-8 Class 1



For “dryclean only” fabrics: Hand wash, line dry or flat dry



DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO DRYCLEANING



AATCC 158, 1 cycle



APPEARANCE AFTER WASHING/DRYCLEANING



AATCC 135/158, as per care (3 cycles/ 1 cycle)



DIMENSIONAL STABILITY /APPEARANCE AFTER STEAM PRESS



Coteco



Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product Performance & Testing Procedures



Length x Width (max. %) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Knits: Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Rayon/blends -5/+5 Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: -7/+3 x -7/+3 Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x 10/+3 Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x -3/+3 Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3 Length x Width (max. %) Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2 Color change: 4 Self-staining: 4.5 No visual change in appearance No visual change in appearance Length x Width (max %) Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2



All colors



One color only (see “Performance Specifications - Flammability for details) Woven: One color only Knits: All colors Washable fabrics; Dryclean only (hand wash)



Woven: One color only Knits: All colors Dryclean fabrics Additional evaluation of sample(s) tested for dimensional stability. One color only



66 June 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Intimates #006, Page 2 of 3 Required test Performance (cont’d) TWISTING AFTER LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING TENSILE STRENGTH



AATCC 179 Method 1, Option 2 ASTM D5034



TEAR STRENGTH



ASTM D1424



SEAM SLIPPAGE/STRENGTH



ASTM D434 (6 mm slippage and strength) Prototype seam



PILLING



ASTM D3512 Random Tumble Knits: 30 minutes Wovens: 1 hour



BURSTING STRENGTH



NARROW ELASTICS PERFORMANCE BRA BAND ELONGATION COLORFASTNESS COLORFASTNESS TO LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING



COLORFASTNESS TO CHLORINE BLEACH COLORFASTNESS TO NONCHLORINE BLEACH



Required standard



Test Method



Woven: 3% Knit: 5% (min. lbs) General fabrics: Fabric Weight: < 4 oz/sq yard: 20 4.1-6 oz/sq yard: 30 >6.1 oz/sq yard: 40 Lining/Pocketing: 20 (min. lbs) General fabrics: Fabric Weight: 6.1 oz/sq yard: 3.0 Lining: 1.8 Pocketing: 2 (min. lbs) Fabric Weight: 6.1 oz/sq yard: 25 Lining: 15 Pocketing: 20 Minimum All others: 3.5 Brushed/peached: 3 Polyester/nylon: 3



BS EN ISO 12945 Part 1 Specialty animal fibers: 2 hrs Other animal fibers: 4 hrs ASTM D3786



ASTM D4964



Notes One color only Wovens: One color only



Wovens: One color only



Wovens: One color only



Knit/woven: One color only Knits only: If failure, test 2 additional colors.



3.5 3.5 Minimum (psi) Fabric Weight: 6.1 oz/sq yard: 55 Lace: 35 85% Recovery



Knits: One color only



As required for narrow elastics Bra bands only



BV S1019



Maximum setting: 2.4-3.5 lbs Minimum setting: 1.5-2.5 lbs



AATCC 61/ AATCC 132 1A - hand wash 2A - machine wash 40C - cold 49 C - warm



Minimum Color change: 4 Color staining: 3.5 Self-staining: 4.5



All colors (as applicable)



AATCC TS-001



Minimum Color change: 4 Minimum Color change: 4



Washable fabrics; All colors



AATCC TS-001



Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product Performance & Testing Procedures



Washable fabrics; all colors



67 June 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Intimates #006, Page 3 of 3



Required test



AATCC 15 Multifiber 49



COLORFASTNESS TO CROCKING



AATCC 8, 116



GARMENT TESTING Required test DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO WASHING/DRYCLEANING



Required standard



Test Method



Colorfastness (cont’d) COLORFASTNESS TO PERSPIRATION



Minimum Color change: 4 Color staining: 3.5 Self-staining: 4.5 Minimum (wet/dry) Light: 3/4 Medium/dark: 2.5/3.5 Pigment/ sulfur 2/3 Sueded (brushed, peached, sanded)



Required standard



Test Method AATCC 150, 3 cycles (as per care instructions)



AATCC 158, 1 cycle



APPEARANCE AFTER WASHING/ DRYCLEANING TWISTING AFTER LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING SEAM STRETCHABILITY



AATCC 150/158, as per care (3 cycles/ 1 cycle) AATCC 179 Method 1, Option 2 AATCC TS 015



SEAM STRENGTH/SLIPPAGE



ASTM D1683



TRIM PERFORMANCE



BV S1023 BV S1044 (not limited to buttons and snaps)



(Button Attachment strength Snap attachment strength Hook & Eye/Bar attachment strength) ZIPPER TEST



ASTM D2061



Length x Width (max. %) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Knits: Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Rayon/blends -5/+5 Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: 7/+3 x -7/+3 Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x-10/+3 Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x 3/+3 Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3 Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2 Color change: 4 Self-staining: 4.5 No visual change in appearance Woven: 3% Knit: 5% 7.0 lbs or 50% elongation 6.1 oz/sq yard: 25 Bras: Strap joining/Cup Seam/Front: 15 lbs or 40% elongation Minimum: 15 lbs.



CARE INSTRUCTIONS



16 CFR 423



Zipper Operability Chain Crosswise Strength Top Stop Holding Holding Strength of slider lock Bottom Stop Holding (if applicable) Note: See spec. #814 for requirements. Verify all care label claims



FIBER CONTENT



16 CFR 303



Verify all fiber content claims



Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product Performance & Testing Procedures



Notes All colors



All colors (except white) Lab discretion on light colors and certain neutrals



Notes



Knits only All seams Actual seams; all seams



All on garment



All zipper brands



68 June 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL



SLEEPWEAR (#007) Page 1 of 3



FABRIC TESTING Required test PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS FABRIC WEIGHT (oz/sq yard) FABRIC COUNT FIBER CONTENT



Required standard



Test Method



Notes



ASTM D3776



+/- 5%



One color only



ASTM D3775/D3887 AATCC 20/20A ASTM D276/629



+/- 5% Single Fiber:: No tolerance Blends: +/- 3%



One color only One color only



ASTM D1059



+/- 10%



Non-stretch upon request (one color only)



Negative



One color only



pH



Spot Test MTL C1007 If positive, proceed with JIS L1041 AATCC 81



White (bleached), Wool/wool Blends: 4.5-7 Others: 6-8



All colors



FLAMMABILITY



16 CFR 1610



Class 1



DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO WASHING



AATCC 135, 3 cycles (as per care instructions)



Length x Width (max. %) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Knits: Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Rayon/blends -5/+5 Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: -7/+3 x -7/+3 Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x 10/+3 Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x -3/+3 Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3 Length x Width (max. %) Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2 Color change: 4 Self-staining: 4.5 No visual change in appearance



One color only (see “Performance Specifications - Flammability for details) Woven: One color only Knits: All colors



YARN SIZE PERFORMANCE FORMALDEHYDE



For “dryclean only” fabrics: Hand wash, line dry or flat dry



DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO DRYCLEANING



AATCC 158, 1 cycle



APPEARANCE AFTER WASHING/DRYCLEANING



AATCC 135/158, as per care (3 cycles/ 1 cycle)



DIMENSIONAL STABILITY /APPEARANCE AFTER STEAM PRESS



Coteco



Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product Performance & Testing Procedures



75 ppm



No visual change in appearance Length x Width (max %) Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2



Washable fabrics; Dryclean only (hand wash)



Woven: One color only Knits: All colors Dryclean fabrics Additional evaluation of sample(s) tested for dimensional stability.



One color only



69 June 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Sleepwear #007, Page 2 of 3 Required test Performance (cont’d) TWISTING AFTER LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING TENSILE STRENGTH



AATCC 179 Method 1, Option 2 ASTM D5034



TEAR STRENGTH



ASTM D1424



SEAM SLIPPAGE/STRENGTH



ASTM D434 (6 mm slippage and strength) Prototype seam



PILLING



ASTM D3512 Random Tumble Knits: 30 minutes Wovens: 1 hour



BURSTING STRENGTH



COLORFASTNESS COLORFASTNESS TO LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING



Required standard



Test Method



Woven: 3% Knit: 5% (min. lbs) General fabrics: Fabric Weight: < 4 oz/sq yard: 25 4.1-6 oz/sq yard: 30 >6.1 oz/sq yard: 40 (min. lbs) General fabrics: Fabric Weight: 6.1 oz/sq yard: 3.0 (min. lbs) Fabric Weight: 6.1 oz/sq yard: 25 Minimum All others: 3.5 Brushed/peached: 3 Polyester/nylon: 3



BS EN ISO 12945 Part 1 Specialty animal fibers: 2 hrs Other animal fibers: 4 hrs ASTM D3786



AATCC 61/ AATCC 132 1A - hand wash 2A - machine wash 40C - cold 49C - warm



COLORFASTNESS TO NONCHLORINE BLEACH COLORFASTNESS TO CHLORINE BLEACH COLORFASTNESS TO PERSPIRATION



AATCC TS-001



COLORFASTNESS TO CROCKING



AATCC 8, 116



AATCC TS-001 AATCC 15



Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product Performance & Testing Procedures



Notes One color only Wovens: one color only



Wovens: one color only



Wovens: one color only



Knit/woven: One color only Knits only: If failure, test 2 additional colors.



3.5 3.5 Minimum (psi) Fabric Weight: 6.1 oz/sq yard: 55 Lace: 35



Knits: One color only



Minimum Color change: 4 Color staining: 3.5 Self-staining: 4.5



All colors (as applicable)



Minimum Color change: 4 Minimum Color change: 4 Minimum Color change: 4 Color staining: 3.5 Self-staining: 4.5 Minimum (Wet/Dry) Light: 3/4 Medium/dark: 2.5/3.5 Pigment/ sulfur 2/3 Sueded (brushed, peached, sanded).



Washable fabrics; all colors Washable fabrics; All colors All colors



All colors (except white) Lab discretion on light colors and certain neutrals



70 June 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Sleepwear # 007, Page 3 of 3 GARMENT TESTING Required test DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO WASHING/DRYCLEANING



Required standard



Test Method AATCC 150, 3 cycles (as per care instructions)



AATCC 158, 1 cycle



APPEARANCE AFTER WASHING/ DRYCLEANING



AATCC 150/158, as per care (3 cycles/ 1 cycle)



TWISTING AFTER LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING SEAM STRETCHABILITY



AATCC 179 Method 1, Option 2 AATCC TS 015



SEAM STRENGTH/SLIPPAGE



ASTM D1683 BV S1027 BV S1029



TRIM PERFORMANCE



BV S1023 BV S1044 (not limited to buttons and snaps)



(Button Attachment strength Snap attachment strength Hook & Eye/Bar attachment strength) ZIPPER TEST



ASTM D2061



Length x Width (max. %) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Knits: Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Rayon/blends -5/+5 Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: -7/+3 x -7/+3 Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x 10/+3 Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x -3/+3 Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3 Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2 Color change: 4 Self-staining: 4.5 No visual change in appearance Woven: 3% Knit: 5% 7.0 lbs or 50% elongation 6.1 oz/sq yard: 25 Pockets (decorative/functional): 5/10 Belt loops: 10 Lining: 15 Minimum: 15 lbs.



CARE INSTRUCTIONS



16 CFR 423



Zipper Operability Chain Crosswise Strength Top Stop Holding Holding Strength of slider lock Bottom Stop Holding (if applicable) Note: See spec. # 814 for requirements. Verify all care label claims



FIBER CONTENT



16 CFR 303



Verify all fiber content claims



Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product Performance & Testing Procedures



Notes



Knits only All seams Actual seams; all seams



All on garment



All zipper brands



71 June 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL



TESTING ACTIVE/SWIMWEAR (#008) (Including Leotards, Sweatshirts/tops, sweatpants/shorts) Page 1 of 4



FABRIC TESTING Required test PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS



Required standard



Test Method



Notes



FABRIC WEIGHT (oz/sq yard)



ASTM D3776



+/- 5%



One color only



FABRIC COUNT FIBER CONTENT



ASTM D3775/D3887 AATCC 20/20A



One color only One color only



ASTMD276/629



+/- 5% Single Fiber: No tolerance Blends: +/- 3%



ASTM D1059



+/- 10%



Non-stretch upon request (one color only)



Negative



One color only



pH



Spot Test MTL C1007 If positive, proceed with JIS L1041 AATCC 81



FLAMMABILITY



DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO WASHING



YARN SIZE PERFORMANCE FORMALDEHYDE



75 ppm White (bleached), Wool/wool blends: 4.5-7 Others: 6-8



All colors



16 CFR 1610



Class 1



AATCC 135, 3 cycles (as per care instructions)



Length x Width (Max. %) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Knits: Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Rayon/blends -5/+5 Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: -7/+3 x -7/+3 Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x -10/+3 Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x -3/+3 Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3 Length x Width (max. %) Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2 Color change: 4 Self-staining: 4.5 No visual change in appearance No visual change in appearance Length x Width (max. %) Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2



One color only (See “Performance Specifications - Flammability for details) Woven: One color only Knits: All colors



For “dryclean only” fabrics: Hand wash, line dry or flat dry



DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO DRYCLEANING



AATCC 158, 1 cycle



APPEARANCE AFTER WASHING/DRYCLEANING



AATCC 135/158, as per care (3 cycles/ 1 cycle)



DIMENSIONAL STABILITY /APPEARANCE AFTER STEAM PRESSING



Coteco



Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product Performance & Testing Procedures



Washable fabrics; Dryclean only (hand wash)



Woven: One color only Knits: All colors Dryclean fabrics Additional evaluation of sample(s) tested for dimensional stability. One color only Note: This test does not apply to swimwear fabrics



72 June 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL



Required test Performance (cont’d)



Active/Swim #008, Page 2 of 4 Required standard Notes



Test Method



TWISTING AFTER LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING TENSILE STRENGTH



AATCC 179 Method 1, Option 2 ASTM D5034



TEAR STRENGTH



ASTM D1424



SEAM SLIPPAGE/STRENGTH



ASTM D434 (6 mm slippage and strength) Prototype seam



PILLING



ASTM D3512 Random Tumble Knits: 30 minutes Wovens: 1 hour



Woven: 3% Knit: 5% (min. lbs) General fabrics: Fabric Weight: < 4 oz/sq yard: 25 4.1-6 oz/sq yard: 30 >6.1 oz/sq yard: 40 Lining/pocketing: 20 (min. lbs) General fabrics: Fabric Weight: 6.1 oz/sq yard: 3.0 Lining: 1.8 Pocketing: 2 (min. lbs) Fabric Weight: 6.1 oz/sq yard: 25 Lining: 15 Pocketing: 20 Minimum All others: 3.5 Brushed/peached: 3 Polyester/nylon: 3



BURSTING STRENGTH



BS EN ISO 12945 Part 1 Animal fibers: 4 hrs ASTM D3786



COLORFASTNESS COLORFASTNESS TO WATER



AATCC 107



COLORFASTNESS TO LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING



COLORFASTNESS TO NONCHLORINE BLEACH COLORFASTNESS TO CHLORINE BLEACH COLORFASTNESS TO PERSPIRATION



AATCC 61/AATCC 132 1A - hand wash 2A - machine wash 40C - cold 49C - warm AATCC TS-001 AATCC TS-001 AATCC 15



Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product Performance & Testing Procedures



3.5 Minimum (psi) Fabric Weight: 6.1 oz/sq yard: 55 Lace: 35



One color only Wovens: One color only



Wovens: One color only



Wovens: One color only



Knit/woven: One color only Knits only: If failure, test 2 additional colors.



Knits: One color only



Minimum Color change: 4 Color staining: 3.5 Self-staining: 4.5 Minimum Color change: 4 Color staining: 3.5 Self-staining: 4.5



All colors (except white)



Minimum Color change: 4 Minimum Color change: 4 Minimum Color change: 4 Color staining: 3.5 Self-staining: 4.5



Washable fabrics All colors Washable fabrics All colors All colors



All colors (as applicable)



73 June 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Active/Swim #008, Page 3 of 4



Required test Colorfastness, con’t COLORFASTNESS TO CROCKING



COLORFASTNESS TO LIGHT



COLORFASTNESS TO CHLORINATED POOL WATER



COLORFASTNESS TO SEAWATER



Required standard



Test Method AATCC 8, 116



Minimum (wet/dry) Light: 3/4 Medium/dark: 2.5/3.5 Pigment/ sulfur 2/3 Sueded (brushed, peached, sanded) Minimum Light/neutral colors: 3.5 All others: 4 Neon: 2.5 Minimum color change: All others: 4 Pigment dye/prints: 3.5 Self-staining: 4 Minimum Color change: 4 (Pigment dyes/prints: 3.5) Color staining: 3.5 Self-staining: 4



AATCC 16 Option 3 Activewear: 20 hours Swimwear: 40 hours AATCC 162



AATCC 106



Notes All colors (except white) Lab discretion on light colors and certain neutrals



All colors (except lining/pocketing fabrics) All colors Swimwear only



All colors Swimwear only



**If making additional “claims” on the garment (such as “breathable”, “absorbent”, “wicking”, etc.), additional testing will be required. Consult with Director of Fabric and Testing and see “Additional Testing”. GARMENT TESTING Required test DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO WASHING/DRYCLEANING



Required standard



Test Method AATCC 135, 3 cycles (as per care instructions)



APPEARANCE AFTER WASHING/ DRYCLEANING



AATCC 150/158, as per care (3 cycles/ 1 cycle)



TWISTING AFTER LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING SEAM STRETCHABILITY



AATCC 179 Method 1, Option 2 AATCC TS 015



Length x Width (max. %) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Knits: Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Rayon/blends -5/+5 Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: -7/+3 x -7/+3 Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x 10/+3 Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x -3/+3 Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3 Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2 Color change: 4 Self-staining: 4.5 No visual change in appearance Woven: 3% Knit: 5% 7.0 lbs or 50% elongation



SEAM STRENGTH/SLIPPAGE



ASTM D1683 BV S1027 BV S1029



6.1 oz/sq yard: 25



AATCC 150, 1 cycle



Notes



Knits only All seams Actual seams; all seams



Stress Points: 20 Pockets (decorative/functional):10/20 Pleats/belt loops: 10 Lining: 15



Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product Performance & Testing Procedures



74 June 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Active/Swim #008, Page 4 of 4



Required test



Required standard



Test Method



Notes



Garment Testing (cont’d) TRIM PERFORMANCE (Button Attachment strength Snap attachment strength Hook & Eye/Bar attachment strength) ZIPPER TEST



BV S1023 BV S1044 (not limited to buttons and snaps)



Minimum: 15 lbs.



All on garment



ASTM D2061



All zipper brands



CARE INSTRUCTIONS



16 CFR 423



Zipper Operability Chain Crosswise Strength Top Stop Holding Holding Strength of slider lock Bottom Stop Holding (if applicable) Note: See spec. # 814 for requirements. Verify all care label claims



FIBER CONTENT



16 CFR 303



Verify all fiber content claims



Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product Performance & Testing Procedures



75 June 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL



SWEATERS (#009) Page 1 of 3



FABRIC TESTING (Performed after final factory garment wash) Required test PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS



Required standard



Test Method



Notes



FABRIC COUNT



ASTM D3775/D3887



+/- 5%



One color only



FIBER CONTENT



AATCC 20/20A



Single Fiber: No tolerance Blends: +/- 3%



One color only



ASTM D276/629 ASTM D1059



+/- 10%



Non-stretch upon request (one color only)



Negative



One color only



pH



Spot Test MTL C1007 If positive, proceed with JIS L1041 AATCC 81



FLAMMABILITY



DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO WASHING



YARN SIZE



PERFORMANCE FORMALDEHYDE



DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO DRYCLEANING APPEARANCE AFTER WASHING/DRYCLEANING



75 ppm White (bleached), Wool/wool blends: 4.5-7 Others: 6-8



All colors



16 CFR 1610



Class 1



AATCC 135, 3 cycles (as per care instructions)



Length x Width (max. %) Rayon/blends: -5/+5 Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3



One color only (See “Performance SpecificationsFlammability for details) All colors



For “dryclean only” fabrics: Hand wash, line dry or flat dry AATCC 158, 1 cycle AATCC 135/158, as per care (3 cycles/ 1 cycle)



Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product Performance & Testing Procedures



Others -5/+3 Length x Width (Max. %) -5/+2 x -5/+2 Color change: 4 Self-staining: 4.5 No visual change in appearance



Washable fabrics; Dryclean only (hand wash) All colors Dryclean fabrics Additional evaluation of sample(s) tested for dimensional stability.



76 June 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Sweaters #009, Page 2 of 3 Required test Performance (cont’d) TWISTING AFTER LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING PILLING



BURSTING STRENGTH COLORFASTNESS COLORFASTNESS TO LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING



COLORFASTNESS TO NONCHLORINE BLEACH COLORFASTNESS TO CHLORINE BLEACH COLORFASTNESS TO PERSPIRATION



Required standard



Test Method AATCC 179 Method 1, Option 2 BS EN ISO 12945 Part 1 Specialty animal fibers: 2 hrs Other animal fibers: 4 hrs ASTM D3786 AATCC 61/ AATCC 132 1A - hand wash 2A - machine wash 40C - cold 49C - warm AATCC TS-001 AATCC TS-001 AATCC 15



COLORFASTNESS TO CROCKING



AATCC 8, 116



COLORFASTNESS TO LIGHT



AATCC 16 Option 3, 20 hours Silk:10 hours



Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product Performance & Testing Procedures



Notes



Maximum 3%



One color only



Minimum 3.5



One color only If failure, test 2 additional colors.



3.5 Minimum (psi) 40



One color only



Minimum Color change: 4 Color staining: 3.5 Self-staining: 4.5



All colors (as applicable)



Minimum Color change: 4 Minimum Color change: 4 Minimum Color change: 4 Color staining: 3.5 Self-staining: 4.5 Minimum (wet/dry) Light: 3/4 Medium/dark: 2.5/3.5 Pigment/ sulfur 2/3 Sueded (brushed, peached, sanded) Minimum Light/neutral colors: 3.5 All others: 4



Washable fabrics: All colors Washable fabrics: All colors All colors



All colors (except white) Lab discretion on light colors and certain neutrals



All colors



77 June 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Sweaters #009, Page 3 of 3 GARMENT TESTING Required test



Required standard



Test Method



GARMENT WEIGHT



Standard Measure



Report Actual - lbs per dozen



DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO WASHING/DRYCLEANING



AATCC 150, 3 cycles (as per care instructions)



Length x Width (max. %) Rayon/blends: -5/+5 Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3 Others: -5/+3 -5/+2 x -5/+2 Color change: 4 Self-staining: 4.5 No visual change in appearance Woven: 3% Knit: 5% 7.0 lbs or 50% elongation



AATCC 158, 1 cycle APPEARANCE AFTER WASHING/ DRYCLEANING



AATCC 150/158, as per care (3 cycles/ 1 cycle)



TWISTING AFTER LAUNDERING SEAM STRETCHABILITY



AATCC 179 Method 1, Option 2 AATCC TS 015



TRIM PERFORMANCE



BV S1023 BV S1044 (not limited to buttons and snaps)



Minimum (lbs): 15



ASTM D2061



(Button Attachment strength Snap attachment strength Hook & Eye/Bar attachment strength) ZIPPER TEST



CARE INSTRUCTIONS



16 CFR 423



Zipper Operability Chain Crosswise Strength Top Stop Holding Holding Strength of slider lock Bottom Stop Holding (if applicable) Note: See spec. # 814 for requirements. Verify all care label claims



FIBER CONTENT



16 CFR 303



Verify all fiber content claims



Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product Performance & Testing Procedures



Notes



All seams, stress points, pockets (decorative/ functional) All on garment



All zipper brands



78 June 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL



LEATHER (#010) Page 1 of 3



FABRIC TESTING Required test PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS



Required standard



Test Method



Notes



MATERIAL IDENTIFICATION Leather Shell



Microscopic



Verify leather material (man-made; genuine; etc)



One color only



FIBER CONTENT Lining Fabric



AATCC 20/20A



Verify content of lining.



One color only



MATERIAL WEIGHT Leather Shell Lining Fabric LEATHER THICKNESS



ASTMD276/629 One color only ASTM D3776



+/- 5%



ASTM D1813



+/- 5%



One color only



AATCC 81



Leather, wool/wool blends, bleached white fabric: 4.5-7



All colors



PERFORMANCE pH



Others: 6-8 FLAMMABILITY Leather Lining Fabric



16 CFR 1610



Class 1



DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO LEATHER CLEANING



Professional Leather Cleaning, 1 cycle



Length x Width (max. %) Leather: -2/+2 x -2/+2



Lining fabric: AATCC 158, 1 cycle



Lining Fabric Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knit: -3/+2 x -3/+2 Color change: 4 Self-staining: 4.5 No visual change in appearance.



One color only (See “Performance SpecificationsFlammability for details) Leather: One color only Woven:: One color only Knits: All colors



APPEARANCE AFTER LEATHER CLEANING



Professional Leather Clean, 1 cycle



BREAKING STRENGTH OF LEATHER TENSILE STRENGTH (of lining fabric) TEAR STRENGTH OF LEATHER TEAR STRENGTH (of lining fabric) DURABILITY OF LEATHER FINISH (flexing method)



ASTM D2208



Minimum (lbs): 25



One color only



ASTM D5034



Minimum (lbs): 20



Wovens: one color only



ASTM D4704



Minimum (lbs) : 2



One color only



ASTM D1424



Min. lbs 1.8 Rank 1 (no damage)



Wovens: one color only



ASTM D6182



Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product Performance & Testing Procedures



As above



One color only



79 June 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Leather #010, Page 2 of 3



Required test COLORFASTNESS COLORFASTNESS TO PERSPIRATION



AATCC 15



COLORFASTNESS TO CROCKING



AATCC 8, 116



COLORFASTNESS TO LIGHT



AATCC 16 Option 3; 20 hours



GARMENT TESTING Required test



Required standard



Test Method



Color change: 4 Color staining: 3.5 Self-staining: 4.5 Minimum (wet/dry) 2/3 Lining: 2.5/3.5: med/dark colors 3 / 4: light colors



Lining fabric only All colors



Minimum Light colors: 3.5 All others: 4



All colors (Leather and trim, except lining fabrics).



Required standard



Test Method



DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO LEATHER CLEANING (INCLUDING DIFFERENTIAL SHRINKAGE) APPEARANCE AFTER LEATHER CLEANING



Professional Leather Cleaning, 1 cycle



Length x Width (Max. %) -2/+2 x -2/+2



Professional Leather Cleaning, 1 cycle



SEAM STRENGTH/SLIPPAGE



ASTM D1683



TRIM PERFORMANCE



BV S1023 BV S1044 (not limited to buttons and snaps)



Color change: 4 Self-staining: 4.5 No visual change in appearance Minimum (lbs) Lining to garment: 15 Other seams: 20 Stress points:20 Pockets (Decorative/Functional): 10/20 Lining: 15 Minimum (lbs): 15



(Button Attachment strength Snap attachment strength Hook & Eye/Bar attachment strength) ZIPPER TEST



ASTM D2061



Zipper Operability Chain Crosswise Strength Top Stop Holding Holding Strength of slider lock Bottom Stop Holding (if applicable) Note: See spec. # 814 for requirements. Class 1



FLAMMABILITY



16 CFR 1610 16 CFR 1611



CARE INSTRUCTIONS



16 CFR 423



Verify all care label claims



FIBER CONTENT



16 CFR 303



Verify all fiber content claims



Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product Performance & Testing Procedures



Notes



All colors (except white) Lab discretion on light colors and certain neutrals



Notes



All on garment



All zipper brands



For trim, if applicable (See “Performance SpecificationsFlammability for details)



80 June 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL



ADDITIONAL TESTING (#011) Required test PILE RETENTION



ADHESION TEST/FIBER SHEDDING PROPENSITY STRETCH AND RECOVERY / TENSION AND ELONGATION OF ELASTIC FABRICS



ASTM D4685 (use CS-10 Abradant) Option A Fabric >7.0 oz/sq yard: 500g head weight Option B Fabric use “Growth” for 10% (60 sec.) pass/fail determination.



Faux fur only One color only (must submit FABRIC for testing)



Growth: 5% Recovery: 85% (information only) For samples with elastic content < 10% (1hr.) Growth: 7% Recovery: 70% (information only)



ASTM D4964



ASTM D3107



ASTM D4964 RAIN TEST



Required standard



Test Method



AATCC 35 (2 ft, 2 min)



Swimwear / Action Wear: Elongation: Warp Knit: Lengthwise 120% min. Widthwise 75% min. Weft Knit: Lengthwise 75% min. Widthwise 120% min. Recovery: 85% minimum WOVEN: For samples with elastic content > 10% (30 sec.) Recovery: 85% Growth: 5% For samples with elastic content < 10% (1hr.) Recovery: 70% Growth: 7% Narrow Fabrics 85% recovery



Coated fabric: Maximum 1 gram of water penetration Uncoated fabric: >1 gram of water penetration



One color only (must submit FABRIC for testing)



One color on stretch direction only (must submit FABRIC for testing)



As required for narrow elastics (intimates, etc.) “Rainwear” only; One color Test before and after coating, since the water-resistance must be a direct result of the coating, and not any prior finish. Only if claimed to be “water resistant” One color only



SPRAY TEST



AATCC 22



AIR PERMEABILITY



ASTM D737



Original: 90 ISO Washed (3X): 70 ISO Drycleaned (1X) (as per care instructions) Minimum: 10



COLORFASTNESS TO OZONE GAS FUMES FADING



AATCC 109, 1 cycle



Minimum: 4



Indigo and whites only



AATCC 23, 1 cycle



Minimum: 4



Indigo and whites only



Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product Performance & Testing Procedures



If claiming “windproof”



81 June 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL



BREATHABILITY



ASTM E96



> 500 gr/sq.mt./24 hr



If claiming “moisture management”



ABSORBENCY



AATCC 79



Max 30 sec



If claiming “moisture management”



WICKING



BV S 1038



Min 3 inches at 30 min.



If claiming “moisture management”



UV TRANSMITTANCE



ASTM D6603



Lab to advise standards



If claiming “UV resistant”



DOWNPROOFNESS



IDFL 5530 (Tumbling Method) FTMS 191, Method 5530 (modified) AATCC 8



Minimum 4



Down products only



If dry crocking does not meet Class 3.5, or wet crocking class 2.0 wash 1X according to the care label and repeat test. If the crocking improves to a satisfactory rating, the fabric can be accepted, provided that the care instruction is modified to include “wash before wearing” (before all other instructions).



Denim, pigment, sulphur, suede, etc.



AFTER WASH CROCKING TEST



If material contains PVC or PU (including PVC or neoprene rain suits and coats, and decals and attachments on clothing)



Lead Content



Lead Content



EPA 3051 (Modified) (San Francisco Superior Court, 317256, CGC-02403328, and CGC-05440721) EPA 3051 (Modified)



Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product Performance & Testing Procedures



PVC 30 ppm



All Colors



PU 100 ppm



All Colors



82 June 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL BASIC CARE LABELS AT01 AT02 AT03 AT04 AT05 AT06 AT07 AT08 AT09 AT10 AT11 AT12 AT13 AT14 AT15 AT16 AT17 AT18 AT19 AT20 AT21 AT22 AT23 AT24



Machine wash cold, only non-chlorine bleach when needed, line dry or flat dry cool iron if needed. Machine wash cold, only non-chlorine bleach when needed, tumble dry low, do not iron or dryclean. Machine wash cold, do not bleach, tumble dry low, warm iron if needed. Machine wash cold, do not bleach, line dry or flat dry, warm iron if needed. Machine wash cold, gentle cycle, only non-chlorine bleach when needed, tumble dry low remove promptly, warm iron if needed. Machine wash cold, gentle cycle, do not bleach, line dry, warm iron if needed. Machine wash cold, only non-chlorine bleach when needed, line dry or flat dry, warm iron if needed. Machine wash warm, only non-chlorine bleach when needed, tumble dry low, warm iron if needed. Machine wash cold, only non-chlorine bleach when needed tumble dry low, warm iron if needed. Hand wash cold, do not bleach, reshape, dry flat , cool iron if needed. Hand wash cold, do not bleach, reshape, dry flat, warm/cool iron if needed or dryclean. Hand wash cold, do not bleach, line dry or dry flat, warm iron if needed. Hand wash cold, do not bleach, dry flat, warm/cool iron if needed or dryclean. Machine wash warm, only non-chlorine bleach when needed, tumble dry low remove promptly, warm iron if needed. Machine wash warm, do not bleach, line dry or dry flat, warm/cool iron if needed or dryclean. Machine wash warm, only non-chlorine bleach when needed, tumble dry low remove promptly, do not iron. Machine wash warm, only non-chorine bleach when needed, tumble dry medium remove promptly, warm iron if needed. Machine wash warm, only non-chlorine bleach when needed, tumble dry low remove promptly, cool iron if needed. Hand wash cold, do not bleach, line dry, warm iron if needed. Dryclean Professionally leather clean only Dryclean only Machine wash cold, only non-chlorine bleach when needed, tumble dry low, warm iron if needed. Dryclean, do not steam press.



Remark: “Wash with like colors” maybe used on SOLID COLOR garments if color staining on multifiber strip does not exceed class 2.5 in the colorfastness to washing test.



Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product Performance & Testing Procedures



83 June 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL



BRANDED & CO-BRANDED PRODUCT Ann Taylor will also engage in the retailing of branded and co-branded product. In order to ensure corporate and regulatory compliance, such products must be tested by an independent testing laboratory prior to delivery. Test protocols for branded and co-branded product can be found on pages 83 to 96 of this manual. Note: These are not the same as test protocols for Ann Taylor Corporate.



Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product Performance & Testing Procedures



84 June 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL



BRANDED & CO-BRANDED BOTTOMS (#001A) Page 1 of 2



(CAREER/CASUAL SKIRT/SHORT/PANT) FABRIC TESTING



Required test



AATCC 20/20A



FLAMMABILITY



ASTMD276/629 16 CFR 1610



DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO WASHING



Required standard



Test Method



FIBER CONTENT



AATCC 135, 3 cycles (as per care instructions) For “dryclean only” fabrics: Hand wash, line dry or flat dry



DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO DRYCLEANING



AATCC 158, 1 cycle



APPEARANCE AFTER WASHING/DRYCLEANING



AATCC 135/158, as per care (3 cycles/ 1 cycle)



COLORFASTNESS COLORFASTNESS TO LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING



Notes



Single fiber: No tolerance Blends: +/- 3%



One color only



Class 1



One color only (see “Performance Specifications Flammability for details) Woven: One color only Knits: All colors



Length x Width (max. %) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Knits: Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Rayon/blends -5/+5 Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: 7/+3 x -7/+3 Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x-10/+3 Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x 3/+3 Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3 Length x Width (max. %) Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2 Color change: 4 Self-staining: 4.5 No visual change in appearance



Washable fabrics; Dryclean only (hand wash)



Woven: One color only Knits: All colors Dryclean fabrics Additional evaluation of sample(s) tested for dimensional stability.



AATCC 61/AATCC 132 1A - hand wash 2A - machine wash 40 C - cold 49 C - warm



Minimum Color change: 4 Color staining: 3.5 Self-staining: 4.5



All colors (as applicable)



COLORFASTNESS TO NONCHLORINE BLEACH



AATCC TS-001



Minimum Color change: 4



Washable fabrics; All colors



COLORFASTNESS TO CHLORINE BLEACH



AATCC TS-001 Minimum Color change: 4



Washable fabrics; All colors



FORMALDEHYDE



Spot Test MTL C1007 If positive, proceed with JIS L1041 AATCC 81



Negative



One color only



pH



Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product Performance & Testing Procedures



75 ppm White (bleached), Wool/wool blends: 4.5-7 Others: 6-8



All colors



85 June 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL GARMENT TESTING



CARE INSTRUCTIONS



16 CFR 423



Required standard Length x Width (max. %) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Knits: Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Rayon/blends -5/+5 Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: 7/+3 x -7/+3 Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x-10/+3 Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x 3/+3 Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3 Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2 Color change: 4 Self-staining: 4.5 No visual change in appearance Verify all care label claims



FIBER CONTENT



16 CFR 303



Verify all fiber content claims



Required test DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO WASHING/DRYCLEANING



Test Method AATCC 150, 3 cycles (as per care instructions)



AATCC 158, 1 cycle



APPEARANCE AFTER WASHING/ DRYCLEANING



AATCC 150/158, as per care (3 cycles/ 1 cycle)



Notes



For coated or painted trims, add the following tests if not tested at trim stage



Lead content



Heavy Metals



16 CFR 1303 ASTM E1613/E1645 (Mod.) EN 71, Part III



ASTM F963



Nickel Test



EN 1811 EN12472 (report results with and without coating)



No more than 0.06% (600 ppm) lead content based on the weight of the dried paint or coating film Antimony: 60 Arsenic: 25 Barium: 1000 Cadmium: 75 Chromium: 60 Lead: 90 Mercury: 60 Selenium: 500 Transfer to skin less than 0.5. micrograms per square centimeter per week



All colors



Must not exceed these limits (ppm) for soluble migrated element



Only if supplier indicated that the item is “nickelfree”. (Nickel is possible in coatings or special colors)



For material containing PVC or PU (including PVC or neoprene rain suits and coats, and decals and attachments on clothing), add the following test if not tested at trim stage



Lead Content



Lead Content



EPA 3051 (Modified) (San Francisco Superior Court, 317256, CGC-02403328, and CGC-05440721) EPA 3051 (Modified)



Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product Performance & Testing Procedures



PVC 30 ppm



All Colors



PU 100 ppm



All Colors



86 June 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL



BRANDED & CO-BRANDED TOPS, DRESSES, JACKETS (#002A) (CAREER/CASUAL) FABRIC TESTING



Required test FIBER CONTENT



Required standard



Test Method AATCC 20/20A



Single fiber: No tolerance Blends: +/- 3% Class 1



ASTMD276/629 FLAMMABILITY



16 CFR 1610



DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO WASHING



AATCC 135, 3 cycles (as per care instructions) For “dryclean only” fabrics: Hand wash, line dry or flat dry



DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO DRYCLEANING



AATCC 158, 1 cycle



APPEARANCE AFTER WASHING/DRYCLEANING



AATCC 135/158, as per care (3 cycles/ 1 cycle)



COLORFASTNESS COLORFASTNESS TO LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING



COLORFASTNESS TO NONCHLORINE BLEACH COLORFASTNESS TO CHLORINE BLEACH FORMALDEHYDE



pH



AATCC 61/AATCC 132 1A - hand wash 2A - machine wash 40 C - cold 49 C - warm AATCC TS-001 AATCC TS-001



Spot Test MTL C1007 If positive, proceed with JIS L1041 AATCC 81



Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product Performance & Testing Procedures



Length x Width (max. %) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Knits: Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Rayon/blends -5/+5 Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: -7/+3 x -7/+3 Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x10/+3 Poly/Nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x -3/+3 Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3 Length x Width (max. %) Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2 Color change: 4 Self-staining: 4.5 No visual change in appearance



Notes One color only One color only (See “Performance Specifications -Flammability for details) Woven-One color only Knits—all colors Washable fabrics; Dryclean only (hand wash)



Woven - -One color only Knits—all colors Dryclean fabrics Additional evaluation of sample(s) tested for dimensional stability.



Minimum Color change: 4 Color staining: 3.5 Self-staining: 4.5



All colors (as applicable)



Minimum Color change: 4 Minimum Color change: 4



Washable fabrics; All colors



Negative



One color only



Washable fabrics; All colors



75 ppm White (bleached), Wool/wool blends: 4.5-7 Others: 6-8



All colors



87 June 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL GARMENT TESTING Required test DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO WASHING/DRYCLEANING



Required standard



Test Method AATCC 150, 3 cycles (as per care instructions)



APPEARANCE AFTER WASHING/ DRYCLEANING



AATCC 150/158, as per care (3 cycles/ 1 cycle)



CARE INSTRUCTIONS



16 CFR 423



Length x Width (max. %) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Knits: Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Rayon/blends -5/+5 Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: -7/+3 X -7/+3 Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x10/+3 Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x -3/+3 Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3 Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2 Color change: 4 Self-staining: 4.5 No visual change in appearance Verify all care label claims



FIBER CONTENT



16 CFR 303



Verify all fiber content claims



AATCC 158, 1 cycle



For coated or painted trim, add the following tests if not tested at trim stage Lead content 16 CFR 1303 No more than 0.06% (600 ASTM E1613/E1645 ppm) lead content based on (Mod.) the weight of the dried paint or coating film Heavy Metals EN 71, Part III Antimony: 60 ASTM F963 Arsenic: 25 Barium: 1000 Cadmium: 75 Chromium: 60 Lead: 90 Mercury: 60 Selenium: 500 Nickel Test EN 1811 Transfer to skin less than EN12472 0.5. micrograms per square (report results with and centimeter per week without coating)



Notes



All colors



Must not exceed these limits (ppm) for soluble migrated element



Only if supplier indicated that the item is “nickel-free”. (Nickel is possible in coatings or special colors)



If material containing PVC or PU (including PVC or neoprene rain suits and coats, and decals and attachments on clothing), add the following test if not tested at trim stage. Lead Content



EPA 3051 (Modified) (San Francisco Superior Court, 317256, CGC-02-403328, and CGC-05-440721)



Lead Content



EPA 3051 (Modified)



Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product Performance & Testing Procedures



PVC 30 ppm



All Colors



PU 100 ppm



All Colors



88 June 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL



BRANDED & CO-BRANDED SUITS/COORDINATES (#003A) (CAREER/CASUAL) FABRIC TESTING



Required test FIBER CONTENT



Required standard



Test Method AATCC 20/20A



Page 1 of 2 Notes One color only



ASTMD276/629



Single Fiber:-no tolerance Blends: -+/- 3%



FLAMMABILITY



16 CFR 1610



Class 1



DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO WASHING



AATCC 135, 3 cycles (as per care instructions)



Length x Width (max. %) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Knits: Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Rayon/blends -5/+5 Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: -7/+3 X -7/+3 Thermal/Waffle: -10/+3 X10/+3 Poly/nylon/silk/others: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3 Length x Width (max. %) Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2 Color change: 4 Self-staining: 4.5 No visual change in appearance



One color only (See “Performance Specifications Flammability for details) Woven: One color only Knits: All colors



For “dryclean only” fabrics: Hand wash, line dry or flat dry



DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO DRYCLEANING



AATCC 158, 1 cycle



APPEARANCE AFTER WASHING/DRYCLEANING



AATCC 135/158, as per care (3 cycles/ 1 cycle)



COLORFASTNESS COLORFASTNESS TO LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING



COLORFASTNESS TO NONCHLORINE BLEACH COLORFASTNESS TO CHLORINE BLEACH FORMALDEHYDE



pH



AATCC 61 / AATCC 132 1A - hand wash 2A - machine wash 40 C - cold 49 C - warm AATCC TS-001 AATCC TS-001



Spot Test MTL C1007 If positive, proceed with JIS L1041 AATCC 81



Washable fabrics; Dryclean only (hand wash)



Woven: -One color only Knits: All colors Dryclean fabrics Additional evaluation of sample(s) tested for dimensional stability.



Minimum Color change: 4 Color staining: 3.5 Self-staining: 4.5



All colors (as applicable)



Minimum Color change: 4 Minimum Color change: 4



Washable fabrics: All colors Washable fabrics: All colors



Negative



One color only



75 ppm White (bleached), Wool/wool blends: 4.5-7 Others: 6-8



All colors



Page 2 of 2 Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product Performance & Testing Procedures



89 June 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL GARMENT TESTING Required test DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO WASHING/DRYCLEANING



Required standard



Test Method AATCC 150, 3 cycles (as per care instructions)



APPEARANCE AFTER WASHING/ DRYCLEANING



AATCC 150/158, as per care (3 cycles/ 1 cycle)



CARE INSTRUCTIONS



16 CFR 423



Length x Width (max. %) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Knits: Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Rayon/blends -5/+5 Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: 7/+3 x -7/+3 Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x -10/+3 Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x 3/+3 Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3 Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2 Color change: 4 Self-staining: 4.5 No visual change in appearance Verify all care label claims



FIBER CONTENT



16 CFR 303



Verify all fiber content claims



AATCC 158, 1 cycle



For coated or painted trims, add the following tests if not tested at trim stage Required standard Required test Test Method Lead content



16 CFR 1303 ASTM E1613/E1645 (Mod.)



Heavy Metals



EN 71, Part III ASTM F963



Nickel Test



EN 1811 EN12472 (report results with and without coating)



No more than 0.06% (600 ppm) lead content based on the weight of the dried paint or coating film Antimony: 60 Arsenic: 25 Barium: 1000 Cadmium: 75 Chromium: 60 Lead: 90 Mercury: 60 Selenium: 500 Transfer to skin less than 0.5. micrograms per square centimeter per week



Notes



Notes All colors



Must not exceed these limits (ppm) for soluble migrated element



Only if supplier indicated that the item is “nickel-free”. (Nickel is possible in coatings or special colors)



For material containing PVC or PU (including PVC or neoprene rain suits and coats, and decals and attachments on clothing), add the following test if not tested at trim stage Lead Content



EPA 3051 (Modified) (San Francisco Superior Court, 317256, CGC-02-403328, and CGC-05-440721)



Lead Content



EPA 3051 (Modified)



Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product Performance & Testing Procedures



PVC 30 ppm



All Colors



PU 100 ppm



All Colors



90 June 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL



BRANDED & CO-BRANDED OUTERWEAR (#004A) FABRIC TESTING Required test FIBER CONTENT



Required standard



Test Method AATCC 20/20A



Single Fiber: No tolerance Blends: +/- 3% Class 1



ASTMD276/629 FLAMMABILITY



16 CFR 1610



DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO WASHING



AATCC 135, 3 cycles (as per care instructions) For “dryclean only” fabrics: Hand wash, line dry or flat dry



DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO DRYCLEANING



AATCC 158, 1 cycle



APPEARANCE AFTER WASHING/DRYCLEANING



AATCC 135/158, as per care (3 cycles/ 1 cycle)



COLORFASTNESS COLORFASTNESS TO LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING



COLORFASTNESS TO NONCHLORINE BLEACH COLORFASTNESS TO CHLORINE BLEACH FORMALDEHYDE



pH



AATCC 61/ AATCC 132 1A - hand wash 2A - machine wash 40C - cold 49 C - warm AATCC TS-001 AATCC TS-001 Spot Test MTL C1007 If positive, proceed with JIS L1041 AATCC 81



Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product Performance & Testing Procedures



Length x Width (max. %) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Knits: Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Rayon/blends -5/+5 Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: -7/+3 x -7/+3 Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x 10/+3 Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x -3/+3 Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3 Length x Width (max. %) Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2 Color change: 4 Self-staining: 4.5 No visual change in appearance



Page 1 of 2 Notes One color only One color only (See “Performance SpecificationsFlammability for details) Woven: One color only Knits: All colors Washable fabrics; Dryclean only (hand wash)



Woven: One color only Knits: All colors Dryclean fabrics Additional evaluation of sample(s) tested for dimensional stability.



Minimum Color change: 4 Color staining: 3.5 Self-staining: 4.5



All colors (as applicable)



Minimum Color change: 4 Minimum Color change: 4 Negative



Washable fabrics; all colors Washable fabrics; all colors One color only



75 ppm White (bleached), Wool/wool blends: 4.5-7 Others: 6-8



All colors



91 June 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Page 2 of 2 GARMENT TESTING Required test DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO WASHING/ DRYCLEANING



Test Method AATCC 150, 3 cycles (as per care instructions)



Required standard



APPEARANCE AFTER WASHING/ DRYCLEANING



AATCC 150/158, as per care (3 cycles/ 1 cycle)



Length x Width (max. %) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Knits: Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Rayon/blends -5/+5 Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: -7/+3 x -7/+3 Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x -10/+3 Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x -3/+3 Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3 Length x Width (max. %) Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2 Color change: 4 Self-staining: 4.5 No visual change in appearance



CARE INSTRUCTIONS



16 CFR 423



Verify all care label claims



FIBER CONTENT



16 CFR 303



Verify all fiber content claims



For “dryclean only” fabrics: Hand wash, line dry or flat dry



AATCC 158, 1 cycle



Notes



For coated or painted trim, add the following tests if not tested at trim stage



Required test



Required standard



Test Method



Lead content



16 CFR 1303 ASTM E1613/E1645 (Mod.)



Heavy Metals



EN 71, Part III ASTM F963



Nickel Test



EN 1811 EN12472 (report results with and without coating)



No more than 0.06% (600 ppm) lead content based on the weight of the dried paint or coating film Antimony: 60 Arsenic: 25 Barium: 1000 Cadmium: 75 Chromium: 60 Lead: 90 Mercury: 60 Selenium: 500 Transfer to skin less than 0.5. micrograms per square centimeter per week



Notes All colors



Must not exceed these limits (ppm) for soluble migrated element



Only if supplier indicated that the item is “nickelfree”. (Nickel is possible in coatings or special colors)



For material containing PVC or PU (including PVC or neoprene rain suits and coats, and decals and attachments on clothing), add the following tests if not tested at trim stage



Lead Content



Lead Content



EPA 3051 (Modified) (San Francisco Superior Court, 317256, CGC-02-403328, and CGC-05-440721) EPA 3051 (Modified)



Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product Performance & Testing Procedures



PVC 30 ppm



All Colors



PU 100 ppm



All Colors



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BRANDED & CO-BRANDED DENIM APPAREL (#005A) Page 1 of 3



(All tests are to be done after the final wash treatment) Note: For “before-wash” required tests, see “Textile Production Testing”, pages 20-21



FABRIC TESTING Required test FIBER CONTENT



Required standard



Test Method AATCC 20/20A



FLAMMABILITY



16 CFR 1610



Single Fiber: No tolerance Blends-: +/- 3% Class 1



DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO WASHING



AATCC 135, 3 cycles (as per care instructions)



Length x Width (max. %) -3/+3 x -3/+3



DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO DRYCLEANING



AATCC 158, 1 cycle



Length x Width (max. %) -2/+2 x -2/+2



APPEARANCE AFTER WASHING/DRYCLEANING



AATCC 135/158, as per care (3 cycles/ 1 cycle)



Color change: 4 Self-staining: 4.5 No visual change in appearance



AATCC 61/ AATCC 132 Hand washables: 1A Machine washables: 2A Warm:49C Cold: 40C AATCC TS 001



Minimum: Color change: 4 Color staining: 3 Self-staining: 4.5 Minimum 4



AATCC TS 001



Minimum 4



AATCC 8, 116



Minimum: Dry: 3; Wet 2 If dry crocking does not meet Class 3, or wet crocking class 2, wash 1X according to the care label of garment and repeat crocking test. Negative



ASTMD276/629



COLORFASTNESS COLORFASTNESS TO LAUNDERING / DRYCLEANING COLORFASTNESS TO NONCHLORINE BLEACH COLORFASTNESS TO CHLORINE BLEACH COLORFASTNESS TO CROCKING



FORMALDEHYDE



pH



Spot Test MTL C1007 If positive, proceed with JIS L1041 AATCC 81



Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product Performance & Testing Procedures



Notes One color only



Washable fabrics All washes, one color only. Dryclean fabrics All washes, one color only All washes, one color only



(See “Performance SpecificationsFlammability for details)



All washes, all colors (as applicable)



Washable fabrics; All washes, all colors Washable fabrics; all washes, all colors All washes, all colors



For all “washes” - one color only.



75 ppm 4.5-7



After final wash treatments; all “colors/washes”



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ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Page 2 of 3



GARMENT TESTING Required test



Required standard



Test Method



DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO HOME LAUNDERING/ DRYCLEANING COLORFASTNESS TO CROCKING



As per care instructions Laundering: 3 cycles Dryclean: 1cycle AATCC 8, 116



APPEARANCE AFTER LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING FIBER CONTENT



As per care instructions Laundering: 3 cycles Dryclean: 1cycle 16 CFR 303



CARE LABEL



16 CFR 423



Length x Width (max %) Washing: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Dryclean: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Dry: 3; Wet: 2 Remark: If dry crocking does not meet Class 3, or wet crocking class 2, wash garment 1X according to the care label of garment and repeat crocking test. If the crocking improves to a satisfactory rating, the fabric can be accepted, provided that the care instruction is modified to include “wash before wearing” (before all other instructions). Color change: 4 No visible staining Appearance satisfactory Compliance to regulation; Verification of label Compliance to regulation; Verification of label



Notes



All washes, all colors



For coated or painted trims, add the following tests if not tested at trim stage



Required test



Required standard



Test Method



Lead content



16 CFR 1303 ASTM E1613/E1645 (Mod.)



Heavy Metals



EN 71, Part III ASTM F963



Nickel Test



EN 1811 EN12472 (report results with and without coating)



Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product Performance & Testing Procedures



No more than 0.06% (600 ppm) lead content based on the weight of the dried paint or coating film Antimony: 60 Arsenic: 25 Barium: 1000 Cadmium: 75 Chromium: 60 Lead: 90 Mercury: 60 Selenium: 500 Transfer to skin less than 0.5. micrograms per square centimeter per week



Notes All colors



Must not exceed these limits (ppm) for soluble migrated element



Only if supplier indicated that the item is “nickel-free”. (Nickel is possible in coatings or special colors)



94 June 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Page 2 of 3 For material containing PVC or PU (including PVC or neoprene rain suits and coats, and decals and attachments on clothing), add the following test if not tested at trim stage



Lead Content



EPA 3051 (Modified) (San Francisco Superior Court, 317256, CGC-02-403328, and CGC-05-440721)



Lead Content



EPA 3051 (Modified)



Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product Performance & Testing Procedures



PVC 30 ppm



All Colors



PU 100 ppm



All Colors



95 June 2008



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BRANDED & CO-BRANDED INTIMATES (#006A) (Including Bras, Camisoles, Panties) Page 1 of 2



FABRIC TESTING Required test FIBER CONTENT



Required standard



Test Method AATCC 20/20A



Notes One color only



ASTMD276/629



Single Fiber: No tolerance Blends: +/- 3%



FLAMMABILITY



16 CFR 1610



Class 1



DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO WASHING



AATCC 135, 3 cycles (as per care instructions)



Length x Width (max. %) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Knits: Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Rayon/blends -5/+5 Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: -7/+3 x -7/+3 Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x 10/+3 Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x -3/+3 Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3 Length x Width (max. %) Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2 Color change: 4 Self-staining: 4.5 No visual change in appearance



One color only (see “Performance Specifications - Flammability for details) Woven: One color only Knits: All colors



For “dryclean only” fabrics: Hand wash, line dry or flat dry



DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO DRYCLEANING



AATCC 158, 1 cycle



APPEARANCE AFTER WASHING/DRYCLEANING



AATCC 135/158, as per care (3 cycles/ 1 cycle)



COLORFASTNESS COLORFASTNESS TO LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING



Washable fabrics; Dryclean only (hand wash)



Woven: One color only Knits: All colors Dryclean fabrics Additional evaluation of sample(s) tested for dimensional stability.



AATCC 61/ AATCC 132 1A - hand wash 2A - machine wash 40C - cold 49 C - warm



Minimum Color change: 4 Color staining: 3.5 Self-staining: 4.5



All colors (as applicable)



COLORFASTNESS TO CHLORINE BLEACH COLORFASTNESS TO NONCHLORINE BLEACH



AATCC TS-001



Minimum Color change: 4 Minimum Color change: 4



Washable fabrics; All colors



FORMALDEHYDE



Spot Test MTL C1007 If positive, proceed with JIS L1041 AATCC 81



Negative



One color only



pH



AATCC TS-001



Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product Performance & Testing Procedures



Washable fabrics; all colors



75 ppm White (bleached), wool/wool blends: 4.5-7 Others: 6-8



All colors



96 June 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Page 2 of 2 GARMENT TESTING Required test DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO WASHING/DRYCLEANING



Required standard



Test Method AATCC 150, 3 cycles (as per care instructions)



CARE INSTRUCTIONS



AATCC 150/158, as per care (3 cycles/ 1 cycle) 16 CFR 423



Length x Width (max. %) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Knits: Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Rayon/blends -5/+5 Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: 7/+3 x -7/+3 Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x-10/+3 Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x 3/+3 Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3 Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2 Color change: 4 Self-staining: 4.5 No visual change in appearance Verify all care label claims



FIBER CONTENT



16 CFR 303



Verify all fiber content claims



AATCC 158, 1 cycle



APPEARANCE AFTER WASHING/ DRYCLEANING



Notes



For coated or painted trims, add the following tests if not tested at trim stage



Required test Lead content



Heavy Metals



Nickel Test



Required standard No more than 0.06% (600 ppm) lead content based on the weight of the dried paint or coating film EN 71, Part III Antimony: 60 ASTM F963 Arsenic: 25 Barium: 1000 Cadmium: 75 Chromium: 60 Lead: 90 Mercury: 60 Selenium: 500 EN 1811 Transfer to skin less than 0.5. EN12472 micrograms per square (report results with and centimeter per week without coating) Test Method 16 CFR 1303 ASTM E1613/E1645 (Mod.)



Notes All colors



Must not exceed these limits (ppm) for soluble migrated element



Only if supplier indicated that the item is “nickelfree”. (Nickel is possible in coatings or special colors)



For material containing PVC or PU (including PVC or neoprene rain suits and coats, and decals and attachments on clothing), add



the following tests if not tested at trim stage



Lead Content



Lead Content



EPA 3051 (Modified) (San Francisco Superior Court, 317256, CGC-02-403328, and CGC-05-440721) EPA 3051 (Modified)



Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product Performance & Testing Procedures



PVC 30 ppm



All Colors



PU 100 ppm



All Colors



97 June 2008



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BRANDED & CO-BRANDED SWEATERS (#009A) Page 1 of 2



FABRIC TESTING (Performed after final factory garment wash) Required test FIBER CONTENT



Required standard



Test Method AATCC 20/20A



Notes One color only



ASTM D276/629



Single Fiber: No tolerance Blends: +/- 3%



FLAMMABILITY



16 CFR 1610



Class 1



DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO WASHING



AATCC 135, 3 cycles (as per care instructions)



Length x Width (max. %) Rayon/blends: -5/+5 Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3



One color only (See “Performance SpecificationsFlammability for details) All colors



DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO DRYCLEANING APPEARANCE AFTER WASHING/DRYCLEANING



COLORFASTNESS COLORFASTNESS TO LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING



COLORFASTNESS TO NONCHLORINE BLEACH COLORFASTNESS TO CHLORINE BLEACH FORMALDEHYDE



pH



For “dryclean only” fabrics: Hand wash, line dry or flat dry AATCC 158, 1 cycle AATCC 135/158, as per care (3 cycles/ 1 cycle)



AATCC 61/ AATCC 132 1A - hand wash 2A - machine wash 40C - cold 49C - warm AATCC TS-001 AATCC TS-001 Spot Test MTL C1007 If positive, proceed with JIS L1041 AATCC 81



Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product Performance & Testing Procedures



Others -5/+3 Length x Width (Max. %) -5/+2 x -5/+2 Color change: 4 Self-staining: 4.5 No visual change in appearance



Washable fabrics; Dryclean only (hand wash) All colors Dryclean fabrics Additional evaluation of sample(s) tested for dimensional stability.



Minimum Color change: 4 Color staining: 3.5 Self-staining: 4.5



All colors (as applicable)



Minimum Color change: 4 Minimum Color change: 4 Negative



Washable fabrics: All colors Washable fabrics: All colors One color only



75 ppm White (bleached), Wool/wool blends: 4.5-7 Others: 6-8



All colors



98 June 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Page 2 of 2 GARMENT TESTING Required test DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO WASHING/DRYCLEANING



Required standard



Test Method AATCC 150, 3 cycles (as per care instructions)



APPEARANCE AFTER WASHING/ DRYCLEANING



AATCC 150/158, as per care (3 cycles/ 1 cycle)



TWISTING AFTER LAUNDERING SEAM STRETCHABILITY



AATCC 179 Method 1, Option 2 AATCC TS 015



Length x Width (max. %) Rayon/blends: -5/+5 Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3 Others: -5/+3 -5/+2 x -5/+2 Color change: 4 Self-staining: 4.5 No visual change in appearance Woven: 3% Knit: 5% 7.0 lbs or 50% elongation



CARE INSTRUCTIONS



16 CFR 423



Verify all care label claims



FIBER CONTENT



16 CFR 303



Verify all fiber content claims



AATCC 158, 1 cycle



Notes



All seams, stress points, pockets (decorative/ functional)



For coated or painted trims, add the following tests if not tested at trim stage



Required test Lead content



Test Method 16 CFR 1303 ASTM E1613/E1645 (Mod.)



Heavy Metals



EN 71, Part III ASTM F963



Nickel Test



EN 1811 EN12472 (report results with and without coating)



Required standard No more than 0.06% (600 ppm) lead content based on the weight of the dried paint or coating film Antimony: 60 Arsenic: 25 Barium: 1000 Cadmium: 75 Chromium: 60 Lead: 90 Mercury: 60 Selenium: 500 Transfer to skin less than 0.5. micrograms per square centimeter per week



Notes All colors



Must not exceed these limits (ppm) for soluble migrated element



Only if supplier indicated that the item is “nickel-free”. (Nickel is possible in coatings or special colors)



For material containing PVC or PU (including PVC or neoprene rain suits and coats, and decals and attachments on clothing), add



the following tests if not tested at trim stage



Required Test



Test Method



Required Standard



Lead Content



EPA 3051 (Modified) (San Francisco Superior Court, 317256, CGC-02-403328, and CGC-05-440721)



Lead Content



EPA 3051 (Modified)



Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product Performance & Testing Procedures



Notes



PVC 30 ppm



All Colors



PU 100 ppm



All Colors



99 June 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL



Infant/Toddler/Children Requirements and Testing Safety First .................................................................................................................................................. 2 Standards for Infants/Toddlers/Children ...................................................................................................... 3



Standards for Infants/Toddlers/Children (cont’d).................................................................................. 3 Flammability ............................................................................................................................................................................. 3 Lead content.............................................................................................................................................................................. 3 Nickel........................................................................................................................................................................................ 3 Azo dyes ................................................................................................................................................................................... 4 Formaldehyde: .......................................................................................................................................................................... 4 Phthalates: (in PVC) ................................................................................................................................................................. 4 Stuffing materials...................................................................................................................................................................... 4 Colorfastness (general) ............................................................................................................................................................. 4 Colorfastness to Saliva.............................................................................................................................................................. 4 Sharp edges, sharp points.......................................................................................................................................................... 5 Small Parts ................................................................................................................................................................................ 5 Stuffed Toy and Rattle Requirements....................................................................................................................................... 6



Test Request Form ..................................................................................................................................... 8 Ann Taylor Infant/Toddler/Children Test Request Form -Trim ..................................................................................... 8 Ann Taylor Infant/Toddler/Children Test Request Form -Fabric ................................................................................... 9 Ann Taylor Infant/Toddler/Children Test Request Form -Garment ............................................................................. 10



Trim Testing.............................................................................................................................................. 11 Responsibility of Garment Suppliers ...................................................................................................................................... 11 Trim Testing Protocols ........................................................................................................................................................... 12



Fabric Testing ........................................................................................................................................... 20 Responsibility of Garment Suppliers ...................................................................................................................................... 20 Fabric Testing Protocol - Development .................................................................................................................................. 21 Fabric Testing Protocol - Production...................................................................................................................................... 24



Garment Testing ....................................................................................................................................... 29 Responsibility of Garment Suppliers ...................................................................................................................................... 29 Garment Testing Protocol ....................................................................................................................................................... 30



Construction and Manufacturing Requirements .................................................................................. 34 Zippers .................................................................................................................................................................................... 34 Appliqués, Decorations, etc. ................................................................................................................................................... 35 Snap Control ........................................................................................................................................................................... 35 Buttons (functional and non-functional)................................................................................................................................. 36 Hasps and Sliders.................................................................................................................................................................... 36 Factory Requirements (Small Parts) ....................................................................................................................................... 37 Loops and Hangers ................................................................................................................................................................. 38 Drawstring Requirements ....................................................................................................................................................... 38 Neck Stretch............................................................................................................................................................................ 38 Sewing Needle Control........................................................................................................................................................... 39 Metal Pins, Wires, and Staples Control .................................................................................................................................. 40 Sewing Thread ........................................................................................................................................................................ 40 Flame Retardant Finishes on Fabrics ...................................................................................................................................... 40 Stone Washing ........................................................................................................................................................................ 40 Appendix A……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………41



Section 10 Part 2 – Infant, Toddler and Children 1



April 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL



Safety First The safety of children is our #1 Priority! In addition to the construction and manufacturing requirements listed, reasonable judgment and care must be exercised by the garment manufacturers to avoid any latent hazard. Ann Taylor must be notified if, in the opinion of the manufacturer, the design of the garment cannot be executed without creating a potential hazard.



The tests and requirements cited were developed by the following government offices and industry associations: Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) Federal Trade Commission (FTC) American Society of Testing and Materials (ASTM) American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC) The International Organization for Standardization (ISO) German Institute for Standardization (DIN)



Note: Individual states may have additional requirements.



Section 10 Part 2 – Infant, Toddler and Children 2



April 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL



Standards for Infants/Toddlers/Children (cont’d) Flammability All fabric must meet the normal flammability standards with the added requirement. Requirement: 16 CFR 1610, Class 1 Flame Retardant finishes may not be applied to any garment without written approval from NY Production and NY Director of Fabric and Testing. Ann Taylor does not intend to produce any garments for sleepwear; however, it is the responsibility of New York design and Production to assure that none of the garments could be “classified as sleepwear” (even though they are not intended to be). See details in Appendix A. Consult NY Director of Fabric and Testing (for special requirements/testing) if any garment could be classified as “sleepwear”.



Lead Content 16 CFR 1303 Requirement: Less than 0.06% (600 ppm), based on the total weight of the dried paint or coating film. Required for all painted, coated, and printed surfaces, including decals



Nickel Metal accessories must be “Nickel-free” even if the item does not come in contact with the skin (nickel usually triggers the needle detectors, a mandatory process for these garment sizes). “Nickel free” requirement: Transfer to the skin measurement of 1% by weight • Less than 0.002% lead • Less than 0.0002% arsenic • Less than 5% ammonia • Less than 1% urea • Stones or other hard materials having jagged or sharp edges • Material with electrostatic charge with adherence characteristics • Filler which surface burns at a rate 1 gram of water penetration



SPRAY TEST



AATCC 22



Original: 90 (ISO 4) Washed (3x) or dry clean (1x): 70 (ISO 2) (as per care instructions)



AATCC 61/AATCC 132 Hand washables: 1A Machine washables: 2A Warm:49C Cold: 40C AATCC TS 001



Minimum: Color change: 4 Color staining: 3.5 Self-staining: 4.5 Minimum 4



All colors Indigo: after the final wash treatment



AATCC TS 001



Minimum 4



All colors



AATCC 107



Minimum Color change: 4 Color staining: 3.5 Self-staining: 4.5 Minimum Color change: 4 Color staining: 3.5 Self-staining: 4.5 Minimum (Wet/dry) Light: 3.5 Medium/dark: 2.5/3.5 Pigment/indigo 2/3 Sulfur/sueded



All colors (except white) Indigo: after the final wash treatment



COLORFASTNESS COLORFASTNESS TO LAUNDERING / DRYCLEANING COLORFASTNESS TO NON-CHLORINE BLEACH COLORFASTNESS TO CHLORINE BLEACH COLORFASTNESS TO WATER COLORFASTNESS TO PERSPIRATION



AATCC 15



COLORFASTNESS TO CROCKING



AATCC 8, 116



Requirements Minimum (psi) Fabric weight: 3.0 oz/sq yard: 45 Highly stretch fabric: 40 Lace/mesh: 20



Notes Knits: One color only



“Rainwear” only; One color. Test before and after coating, since the water-resistance must be a direct result of the coating, and not any prior finish (i.e. cire, etc.) Only if claimed to be “water resistant” One color only



All colors



All colors Indigo: after the final wash treatment All colors (except white) Indigo: after the final wash treatment Lab discretion on light colors and certain neutrals If dry crocking does not meet Class 3.5, or wet crocking Class 2.0, wash 1X according to the care label and repeat test. If the crocking improves to a satisfactory rating, the fabric can be accepted, provided that the care instruction is modified to include “wash before wearing” (before all other instructions)



Section 10 Part 2 – Infant, Toddler and Children 27



April 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Required test COLORFASTNESS TO SALIVA



Test Method Section 35 LMBG 82.10



Requirement Minimum AATCC Grey Scale: 4.5



COLORFASTNESS TO LIGHT



AATCC 16; Option 3 Silk:10 hours Others:20 hours Swimwear: 40 hours AATCC 109 (1 cycle)



Minimum Light colors: 3.5 All others: 4 Neon swim: 2.5 @ 40 hours Minimum 4



AATCC 23 (1 cycle)



Minimum 4



AATCC 162



Minimum color change: All others: 4 Pigment dye/prints: 3.5 Self-staining: 4 Minimum Color change: 4 (Pigment dyes/prints: 3.5) Color staining: 3.5 Self-staining: 4



COLORFASTNESS TO OZONE COLORFASTNESS TO BURNT GAS FUMES COLORFASTNESS TO CHLORINATED POOL WATER COLORFASTNESS TO SEAWATER



AATCC 106



Notes All colors (except white) Indigo: after the final wash treatment All colors Indigo: after the final wash treatment “Indigo” and “whites” only After final wash treatment “Indigo” and “whites” only After final wash treatment All colors Swimwear only All colors Swimwear only



Note: Garment-dyed: all tests should be performed on the dyed garments after final garment wash. Severe “garment-wash” programs: all tests should be performed after the final garment wash. Page 5 of 5



Section 10 Part 2 – Infant, Toddler and Children 28



April 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL



GARMENT TESTING Responsibility of Garment Suppliers 1. The garment supplier is responsible for all garments to be tested according to the Ann Taylor requirements and for the cost of such tests. 2. The factory must send a representative garment (at least 5 samples) from the beginning of their bulk production to an Ann Taylor designated commercial laboratory. • All the required garment information must be given to the laboratory (see Ann Taylor Test Request Form--Garment) • Additional garments must be sent to the laboratory if needed (consult with lab). 3. All tests for sweaters (including fabric) should be done after the final factory garment wash. 4. Garment dye, stone/enzyme washing: • The garment supplier is responsible to perform all fabric tests in addition to the garment tests (after the garments are completely finished). This does not apply to regular garment wash. • It is the garment manufacturer's responsibility to test all fabrics and trim for bleeding and other problems during this process before starting garment production. • If necessary the garment supplier must modify his washing procedure to avoid staining or other problems. •



Garment Testing 1. The purpose of garment testing is to evaluate all the different components of a garment together while being cleaned 3 times (1 time if dry cleaned) according to the care label. We are looking for appearance, bleeding, puckering, shrinkage, seam strength, or anything that would make the garment look or feel undesirable. Pay special attention to trims, accessories and garment prints. 2. The garment construction is also reviewed at this time to ensure compliance with all Infant/Toddler/Children safety requirements (such as drawstrings, sharp edges, sharp points, zipper guards, etc.). 3. The garment test must be performed by an Ann Taylor designated commercial laboratory (See section VI-D of Apparel Manual for complete listing). 4. Garments must be tested once each season in the production stage. Testing at development stage may also be requested on an exception basis. The testing must be done after the garment is completely finished, including “Garment wash”, “Enzyme wash”, “Stone wash”, etc. if applicable. • The cost of the testing is the responsibility of the garment supplier. • This procedure does not relieve the garment supplier of his responsibility to assure the performance of the garments by total internal quality control throughout the production cycle. 5. Each garment style must be tested.



Section 10 Part 2 – Infant, Toddler and Children 29



April 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL •



•



It is not necessary to test every color combination, but the most critical color combination must be selected for testing (i.e. combination of bright/deep colors with white or cream). Pay special attention to contrasting trim and/or accessories. Additional colorway testing may be required at Ann Taylor’s request.



6. If the same garment style is made by more than one supplier, it must be tested individually from each supplier. 7. Hats and gloves are exempt from care labeling and do not have to be tested unless specifically requested. However if a care label is requested by NY then the item must be tested just like any other garment.



Garment Testing Protocol (ITC Spec. #003) 1. The laboratory will clean the garment three times (3x) according to the care label (1X for drycleaning). All instructions should be followed. i.e. If the care label states “low heat iron, if necessary”, ironing at low heat setting should be performed, even if the garment does not appear to need ironing. 2. Garment construction review and testing to ensure compliance with all Infant/Toddler/Children safety requirements. Required test DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO WASHING



Test Method AATCC 135, 3 cycles Garment Form (as per care instructions) Cold: 80F (27C) Warm: 105F (40C) For dry clean only fabrics: Hand wash, line dry or flat dry



Required standard Length x Width (max. %) Wovens: General: -3%x-3%(CVC), 3%x-3%(CVS) Stretch w/spandex: -4%x4%(CVC), -3%x-3%(CVS) Corduroy, velvet, terry,flannel: -5%x-5%(CVC),-4%x4%(CVS) Dobby, Jacquard, Basket, Pique: -6%x-6%(CVC),-5%x5%(CVS) Wool/Silk -4%x-4%(CVC),-3%x3%(CVS) Growth: +1% maximum Knits: General: -5%x-5%(CVC), 4%x-4%(CVS) Stretch w/spandex: -6%x5%(CVC), -5%x-4%(CVS) Fleece, sherpa, french terry: -6%x-6%(CVC), -5%x5%(CVS) Rib, waffle, pique: -6%x-6%(CVC),-5%x5%(CVS) Jersey, interlock, pointelle: 6%x-5%(CVC),



Notes Washable garments; Fabrics where “dry clean only” is recommended



Section 10 Part 2 – Infant, Toddler and Children 30



April 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL -5%x-5%(CVS) Thermal: -8%x-8%(CVC), 7%x-7%(CVS) Wool (washable): -5%x-5% Silk (washable): -6%x-6% Growth: +3% maximum



DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO DRYCLEANING



AATCC 158, 1 cycle Garment Form



TORQUE/SPIRALITY



AATCC 179; Method 1, Option 2



APPEARANCE AFTER LAUNDERING/ DRYCLEANING



AATCC 150/158. as per care (3 cycles/1 cycle)



FLAMMABILITY



16 CFR 1610/1611



COLORFASTNESS TO SALIVA SEAM STRENGTH/SLIPPAGE



Section 35 LMBG 82.10



SEAM STRETCHABILITY DOWNPROOFNESS



Length x width (max. %) Wovens: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2 Knits:5% Wovens:3% No obvious defects/observations affecting the end product performance/appearance, color change/staining satisfactory performance of the components and trims. List all observations. Class 1



Dry clean garments



For trim, if applicable



Minimum AATCC Grey Scale: 4.5 Length x width (min. lbs) Fabric weight: 6.1 oz/sq yard: 25



For trim, if applicable



AATCC TS 015



7.0 lbs or 50% elongation Minimum 4



CARE INSTRUCTIONS



IDFB 5530 (tumbling method) 16 CFR 423



Knits only All seams If down product



FIBER CONTENT



16 CFR 303



Verify all fiber content claims



Mechanical Hazards ABUSE TEST * (SEE BELOW)



16 CFR 1500



Torque: Min 4 inch-pounds Tension: Min 16 lbs, 10 sec Flexure: Min 16 lbs



SHARP POINTS/SHARP EDGES



16 CFR 1500



Sharp points/edges shall not be accessible before and after use and abuse tests



SMALL PARTS



16 CFR 1500 16 CFR 1501



Small parts shall not be present after use and abuse tests



ASTM D1683



DRAWSTRING/CORDS LOOPS/HANGERS



Wovens only All seams



Verify all care label claims



Includes all buttons, snaps, zipper pulls, and any applicable decorative trim



See “Construction and Manufacturing Requirements”



Section 10 Part 2 – Infant, Toddler and Children 31



April 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL ZIPPER GUARDS



See “Construction and Manufacturing Requirements”



Section 10 Part 2 – Infant, Toddler and Children 32



April 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL *



All Small Parts (zippers, buttons, snaps, bows, etc.) must be tested for removal by the laboratory. Use and Abuse Testing •



Small Parts testing should be done on the sample in both its original and after-wash (3x) or dryclean (1x) states.



•



Small parts testing performed on garment in original state should be done on a separate garment (i.e. one garment for testing small parts in original state, and another garment for testing Care Label wash test and after-wash small parts). Results must be reported accordingly.



•



All small parts on each garment submitted must be evaluated. For example, if a garment is submitted that contains 6 snaps, all 6 snaps must be tested.



•



If “small parts” detach during the washing process itself, there is no need to then perform the test after 3X washing, as it would already be considered a major failure at this stage.



•



Any failure at laboratory stage must be reported (by the regional office) to the NY Director of Fabric and Testing and the NY Production department. Any failure requires 5 additional garments to be sent from the vendor for retesting. If the additional 5 garments are necessary, 4 garments must be tested for “small parts” in the original state, while only 1 garment must be washed 3X and tested for “small parts” after wash.



Section 10 Part 2 – Infant, Toddler and Children 33



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ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL



Construction and Manufacturing Requirements Note: Any deviation from these requirements must be approved by the New York Production Head and by the NY Director of Fabric and Testing. In addition to the construction and manufacturing requirements listed, reasonable judgment and care must be exercised by the garment manufacturers to avoid any latent hazard. Ann Taylor must be notified if, in the opinion of the manufacturer, the design of the garment cannot be executed without creating a potential hazard.



Zippers •



Only zippers (including all parts) from suppliers approved by Ann Taylor can be used -currently only YKK.



•



Zipper protection is required on all garments. This requirement is specifically for any "functional" zipper (serving as a closure), with the exception of pocket zippers. Following are examples of acceptable forms of zipper protection: 1. Traditional zipper guard • Minimum of 3/4 inch facing 2. Double placket/placket flange • Used for reversible garments 3. Neck Zipper Guard Tab • Used for piece at top neck 4. Molded Top Stop - Coil Zipper (coil zipper with an enclosed back) Note: Invisible zippers exempt from above requirements.



Section 10 Part 2 – Infant, Toddler and Children 34



April 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Appliqués, Decorations, etc. Appliqués and other similar decorations must be stitched or bar-tacked with reinforcement for added security.



Snap Control • • • • • • • • • • • • • •



Snap fasteners (functional and non-functional): Only snap fasteners from suppliers approved by Ann Taylor can be used --currently only YKK, Scovill (Acotex), and Prym. The guidelines for snap attachment that are issued by YKK/Scovill/Prym must be followed. Snap fasteners must not be applied over seams, fabric joints or uneven fabric thickness. The best construction is two plies of fabric and one ply of interlining. If interlining is used, it must be sewn or fused onto the garment before snap application. A sample of each garment style must be sent to snap manufacturer for evaluation and recommendation of product and machine setting (pinch setting, etc). Snap fasteners with uncovered prongs (no socket) are not allowed. Prongs must be long enough to properly attach and secure the snap to the seam. Snaps with the leg of prong exposed are unacceptable. Ball and socket of snap must be accurately aligned. Grippers must be firmly attached, with no clearance between fabric and gripper. The bottom of the post must be flat The cap and post must be curled properly. The two staples must be completely curled. The cap or button must not turn around easily. Reused snaps are unacceptable.



• Snap attachment machines • It is highly recommended for the factories to use YKK/Scovill/Prym machines, as these are specially designed to maintain all settings properly. • It is permissible however to use a machine other than the one recommended provided that: 1) The dies are made by YKK/Scovill/Prym to specifically fit the machine 2) YKK/Scovill/Prym technicians evaluate the setting of the snaps 3) The factory checks the adjustment of the machine twice daily 4) No poorly set snaps are found in random inspections by our QA 5) The machine must be pneumatic or electric press. No manually operated hand/foot press or electric flywheel type presses are allowed.



Section 10 Part 2 – Infant, Toddler and Children 35



April 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL ƒ ƒ



• • • • •



The vendor must check the snap machine at least 2 times each day during production to ensure the snaps are secure and consistent. The snap machine must be tested 2 times each day using the tension testing instrument to officially measure attachment strength. All snaps on actual garments must be tested.



Vendor must keep a record of daily inspections, which must be available to Ann Taylor QA upon request. Vendor must have on hand a digital caliber to measure the total pinch setting on a regular basis. If beyond +/-0.003 inches (of recommendation), snap supplier technicians should be consulted. Data sheet must be kept by factory indicating evaluation of pinch setting anytime there is a break in the production process (i.e. before work, after lunch, before overtime starts, etc.). Vendor is responsible for 100% inspection of all snaps. Every garment must be unsnapped and snapped at least 3 times to insure proper attachment. Vendor must perform “Removal of small parts” test on actual garments on a random basis (See Factory Requirements—Small Parts)



Buttons (functional and non-functional) Buttons smaller than 15 ligne should be of two-hole configuration. Buttons larger than 15 ligne should be of four-hole configuration. Buttons that crack, chip, or break cannot be used. Only lock stitch button attachment machines can be used. Buttons should be attached with a minimum of 15 needle passes. A polyester thread should be used.



Hasps and Sliders Wire diameter must be a minimum of 12 gauge (0.1046 inches) All seams must be welded, no sharp points or edges. Exception: Hasps can be constructed with a cover plate over the wire joint, provided that the construction prevents exposure of the wire ends. This must be tested by repeated twisting and pulling with a minimum force of 16 lbs.



Section 10 Part 2 – Infant, Toddler and Children 36



April 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Factory Requirements (Small Parts) • Each manufacturer of Infant/Toddler/Children garments must have access to at least one precise small parts cylinder. • Each manufacturer of Infant/Toddler/Children garments must have a tension testing instrument (“pull tester”) at the factory for random testing. • Tension test is to be done on the actual garment on a random basis by the factory before shipping and by the Ann Taylor QA person during the regular visits and inspections. (See Garment Testing-Small Parts). • If the garment is after-treated (stone, enzyme wash, etc.) the garments must be tested on a random basis after they are completely finished. • If the garments are not after-treated (regular garment wash or no wash) then occasionally some garments should be washed (3X) according to the care label and tested after the washes. • If a commercial laboratory failure is observed (See Garment Testing), then the factory must: ⇒ Provide an explanation for the poorly set snap, button, etc. ⇒ Indicate units in quarantine because of problem. ⇒ Indicate measures taken to resolve the problem ⇒ Send an additional 5 garments to the laboratory for testing. If there are any failures in these next 5 garments, then Ann Taylor requires: An additional 5 garments sent to the laboratory for testing (that must pass) AND Written documentation that 100% inspection has been performed by the factory. Such documentation to be kept by Corporate QC as part of the final inspection report. Note: Any failures are to be reported to the NY Director of Fabric and Testing and Production.



Section 10 Part 2 – Infant, Toddler and Children 37



April 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Loops and Hangers Loops and hangers that could catch on something and tighten the neck opening, causing the child to suffocate, must not be used in the collar and neck area.



Drawstring Requirements 1. No drawstrings will be allowed on hoods or around the neck area of any garments. 2. Drawstrings in any other area, including waist and bottoms, must not be exposed for more than 3 inches from where the strings extend out of the garment when it is expanded to the fullest. In addition such draw cords must be securely fastened in the middle by bar tacking so that they cannot be removed entirely. 3. No toggles, stoppers or knots can be used at the ends of drawstrings. If cords are made of 100% Polyester or Nylon, the ends should be heat-sealed. (Sharp points must not be created by this method!). The ends of the drawstrings may be dipped in liquid plastic or tacked in to prevent fraying. Plastic tips (such as on shoelaces) may be used provided that they are continuously checked for tight adherence. If any loose tips are found the whole shipment must be rejected. Note: When plastic tipping is used at the ends of drawstrings, the tips must withstand a pulloff force of at least 21 lbs.



Neck Stretch Up to 12-18 months: 21” 18-24 months to 5T: 22”



Section 10 Part 2 – Infant, Toddler and Children 38



April 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Sewing Needle Control Needle detectors must be used before packing the garments. “Needle Detector Control” form must be filled out by the factory and stored by Corporate QC for a minimum of 3 years.



A conveyer-type machine or device is preferable. The needle detectors must be properly calibrated and frequently checked. (see Appendix C) In addition, proper controls over needles and broken needle parts must be maintained in the sewing operation to prevent such parts from remaining accidentally in the garment. In-line needle control at factory Note: Factory is responsible for implementing, monitoring, and maintaining the following needle-control program. • • • • • •



•



Machine: No spare needles at any sewing machines All stock and spare needles must be kept by an appointed production person. When there is a needle breakage, production cannot be resumed until all remaining needle parts are found. Before receiving a replacement needle, sewing machine operator must submit all pieces of needle. Appointed production person is the only one authorized to replace needles. Machine operators cannot replace needles on their own. If all parts of needle cannot be found, then the garment (s) being sewn must be completely inspected (i.e. hand-held needle detection device). If lost parts still cannot be found, then garment (s) must be destroyed. A “Needle Log” must be kept by the factory to record all broken needles. This log should list date, time, machine type, operation, product type, and customer’s name. All broken parts of the needle must be attached to the “Needle Log”. Supervisors must sign and indicate what course of action was taken if the log shows that some part of the needle was not found. All “Needle Logs” must be available for review by Ann Taylor QA during their regularly scheduled factory visits and by Ann Taylor offices and/or agents upon request.



Section 10 Part 2 – Infant, Toddler and Children 39



April 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Hand: • Needles must be “checked-out” by the operator at the beginning of each shift • An operator cannot keep additional needles at his/her location unless noted on the “check-out” sheet. • All needles must be “checked-in” at the end of each work shift. • If an operator has not turned in every needle he/she checked-out, then the operator’s entire production must be inspected. If the missing needle is still not found, then the operator’s entire day’s production must be destroyed. Metal Pins, Wires, and Staples Control No metal pins, wires, or staples may be used in any part of the production process for bundling, tacking, or securing components. Sewing Thread Monofilament thread must not be used on any garment. Any other kind of continuous filament thread is also undesirable. Flame Retardant Finishes Flame retardant finishes can only be applied if specifically permitted in writing by Ann Taylor on a case by case basis. Flammability testing must be adjusted accordingly if flame retardants are used. Stone Washing If actual stones are used: All pockets on garments that will be stonewashed must be stitched closed so that no stones can get into the pockets and accidentally remain there. In order to facilitate the removal of the seam after stone washing: a.) Use the smallest number of stitches/inch that is technically possible (no more than 5-6) b.) Use the loosest thread tension possible c.) Use a cotton thread that is strong enough to withstand stone washing but can be broken by the consumer. The thread should be a different shade from the fabric to be easily seen but not a different color that would detract from the look of the garment. A hang tag should be used on all such garments to advise the consumer that the pockets are stitched shut for protection during stone washing and for the consumer to remove the threads and open the pockets. Note: If the pocket stitching is removed prior to shipping, 100% inspection must be performed by the factory to make sure no stones remain in the pockets.



Plastic Bag Warning Plastic bags with width and length both larger than 5 inches and are sold with the product shall have the following statement or its equivalent present on the bag: "WARNING: Plastic bags can be dangerous. To avoid danger of suffocation, keep this bag away from babies and children." The letter height shall be a minimum of 1/8 inch. Section 10 Part 2 – Infant, Toddler and Children 40



April 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL APPENDIX A Children’s Sleepwear Children’s Sleepwear classification Guidelines Ann Taylor does not intend to produce any garments for sleepwear; however, it is the responsibility of New York design and production to assure that none of the garments could be “classified as sleepwear” (even though they are not intended to be). Consult NY Director of Fabric and Testing (for special requirements/testing) if any garment could be “classified as sleepwear”. Sleepwear: Any product or wearing apparel intended to be worn primarily for sleeping or activities related to sleeping. Such “activities” include those that a child is involved in while getting ready for bed or while wearing sleepwear garments before going to bed or after getting up in the morning.



• • •



The classification of sleepwear is very subjective. The Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) determinations may be made on the following criteria: The subjective evaluation of a garments’ suitability as sleepwear The manner in which the garment is marketed, advertised, and displayed The likelihood that a garment will be purchased and used as sleepwear Note: Hang tags or labels that state that a garment is not intended to be used for sleepwear are not sufficient and cannot be used to avoid special testing requirements.



Can this garment be classified as sleepwear? 1.



Compare to sleepwear garment silhouettes (see “Sleepwear Silhouettes”) • One-piece footed garments • One piece non-footed garments • Two piece footed garments • Two piece non-footed garments • Gown with drawstring bottom • Gown with open bottom • Robes (unless clearly intended for pool/beach use) Note: if a garment does not match a silhouette, it is not automatically considered “playwear” (as opposed to “sleepwear”).



2. Is the garment loose fitting, non-restrictive, and made from comfortable fabric (common characteristics of sleepwear garments)? Section 10 Part 2 – Infant, Toddler and Children 41



April 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL 3. Is it constructed of typical sleepwear fabric (see “Traditional Sleepwear Fabric”)? 4. Do the colors or designs indicate sleepwear? 5. Does the marketing imply sleepwear? 6. Is there excessive ornamentation or trim? •



the greater the amount of ornamentation or trim, the greater the likelihood that a garment will not be considered sleepwear.



Even if a particular garment matches a silhouette, is suitable for use as sleepwear, and is made from traditional sleepwear fabric, other factors will influence the CPSC decision—such as: Design modifications: i.e. snap-shoulder closures are viewed as playwear, not sleepwear features. All criteria are subjectively evaluated by the CPSC. *Consult NY Director of Fabric and Testing (for special requirements/testing) if any garment could be classified as sleepwear Note: Customs tariff/quota classification of these garments may not correspond with those of the CPSC.



Section 10 Part 2 – Infant, Toddler and Children 42



April 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Sleepwear Exceptions (Note: All of below “Sleepwear Exceptions” must still meet the regular flammability standards, 16 CFR 1610, Class 1) 1. Infants’ 0-9 months (effective January 1, 1997) Exempt because studies have shown that infants in this age range lack mobility, which reduces the risk of injury from clothing burns significantly. • • • • •



• •



May be sold as sleepwear without having to meet the additional sleepwear flammability standards and testing. Covers one-piece and two-piece garments Covers footed and non-footed garments No restriction on fabric construction or content Must not exceed maximum length measurements: one-piece garments (25.75 in/64.8 cm --maximum) two-piece garments (15.75 in/40 cm --maximum) Must be size-labeled, with label visible to consumer at point of purchase(on garment or package) Can be marketed as sleepwear



2. Skin Tight Garments for over 9 months Exempt because studies indicate that tight-fitting garments are a much less flammability risk than loose fitting garments such as nightgowns, robes, and pajamas. • • • • • • • • •



May be sold as sleepwear without having to meet the additional sleepwear flammability standards and testing. Covers one-piece and two-piece garments Covers footed and non-footed garments No restriction on fabric construction or content Must be tapered at ankles and wrists Must not exceed maximum dimensions in seven critical areas (see “Maximum Dimensions for Tight Fitting Garments”). Must be size-labeled Ornamentation is limited-cannot extend more than ¼ in. from point of attachment to outer surface Can be marketed as sleepwear



Section 10 Part 2 – Infant, Toddler and Children 43



April 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL 3. Long Underwear---must match silhouette in Diagram D (2-piece non-footed garments in sizes 0-14) and adhere to the following: • Garment must be designed to be skin tight • Garment must be made of fabric traditionally used in long underwear • Garment must be clearly promoted as underwear • Garment must not be decorated with a large amount of trim such as ribbons, lace, etc. • Specific sizing standards (equal to or less) used by the CPSC to determine skin tightness for long underwear—(see “Long Underwear, Critical Dimensions”). • Wrist and ankle cuffs must be tight enough to secure the underwear in place as a child pulls an outer garment over it. • Sleep-related motifs are not permissible, as this type of decoration may lead the consumer to believe the items can be used as sleepwear. • Long-underwear features, like rib-knit cuffs and exposed elastic waistbands, are highly recommended.



Section 10 Part 2 – Infant, Toddler and Children 44



April 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Sleepwear Silhouettes A. One-Piece Footed Garments:



B. One-Piece Non-Footed Garments:



Section 10 Part 2 – Infant, Toddler and Children 45



April 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL C. Two-Piece Footed Garments:



D. Two-Piece Non-Footed Garments:



E. Gown with Drawstring Bottom:



Section 10 Part 2 – Infant, Toddler and Children 46



April 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL



F. Gown with Open Bottom:



Robe:



Section 10 Part 2 – Infant, Toddler and Children 47



April 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL



Section 10 Part 2 – Infant, Toddler and Children 48



April 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Traditional Sleepwear Fabric (CPSC Guidelines) Weight Range (oz/yd2)



Type of Fabric Jersey Knit Blanket Weight Fleece Brushed Jersey Stretch Terry Interlock and Rib Knit Warp Knit Flannel



2.4-5.2 5.0-7.0 5.7-6.7 5.5-7.7 4.0-6.0 2.6-4.2



Note: Use of fabrics outside these weight ranges and/or constructions does not guarantee that a garment will be considered “playwear”. Fabrics that are not traditionally used in sleepwear include: • Corduroy • Velours • French terry • Waffle knits • Sweatshirt fleece • Woven twills



Section 10 Part 2 – Infant, Toddler and Children 49



April 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Long Underwear: Critical Dimensions for Two-Piece Non-Footed Garments Pursuant to the CPSC guidelines, "decorative" long underwear and similar garments are considered to be "skin tight" if their critical dimensions are equal to or less than the standard garment measurements published by the National Institute for Standards and Technology covering garments in all sizes. If a garment is sized in "ranges", such as Small (5), Medium (M) and Large (L), the standard measurement used for comparison will be that of the smallest size within the range. For example, if a “Small” covers sizes 4 to 6, the size 4 standards will be used by the CPSC to determine whether the garment is skin tight. It is important to note that the CPSC will measure garments prior to shrinkage (i.e., prior to washing in accordance with care instructions) in determining critical dimensions. The following charts set forth the critical dimensions evaluated by the CPSC: A. Chest Measurements B. Hip Measurements C. Thigh Measurements A) CHEST—STANDARD MEASUREMENTS IN INCHES INFANT SIZES --



3 mos.



6 mos.



12 mos. (Size 1)



18 mos.



17



18



19



20



CHILDREN'S SIZES -- 2 (24 mos.) 21



3



4



5



6



6X



22



23



24



25



25.5



How to measure: The chest is measured horizontally across the front of the garment from underarm to underarm. This measurement is then doubled to arrive at the chest circumference. In each size listed, the chest circumference must be equal to, or less than, the above standard measurements in order for the garment to be considered skin tight.



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April 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL B) HIPS—STANDARD MEASUREMENTS IN INCHES INFANT SIZES -Waist to Hip Hip



3 mos.



6 mos.



12 mos. (Size 1)



18 mos.



3 7/8 21 ½



3 7/8 21 ½



3 7/8 21 ½



3 7/8 21 ½



CHILDREN'S SIZES -- 2 (24 mos.) Waist to Hip 3 7/8 21 ½



Hip



3 4 3/8



4 4¾



5 5 1/8



6 5½



6X 5¾



22 ½



23 ½



24 ½



25 ½



26 ½



Note: Measurements for sizes 0-24 mos (size 0 to 2) are based upon the Size 2 standards for purposes of long underwear critical dimensions for hips.



How to measure: The hip is first located by using the size standards labeled “Waist to Hip.” For example, the hip on a size 4 garment will be located exactly 4 ¾ inches from the waistband. Once the hip is located, it is measured across the front of the garment, and this measurement is doubled to arrive at the hip circumference. In each size listed, the hip circumference must be equal to, or less than, the above standard measurements in order for the garment to be considered skin tight. C) THIGHS—STANDARD MEASUREMENTS IN INCHES INFANT SIZES --



3 mos.



6 mos.



12 mos. (Size 1)



18 mos.



12



12



12



12



CHILDREN'S SIZES -- 2 (24 mos.) 12



3



4



5



6



6X



12 ½



13



13 ½



14



14 ½



Note: Measurements for sizes 0-24 mos (size 0 to 2) are based upon the Size 2 standards for purposes of long underwear critical dimensions for Thighs.



How to measure: The thigh is measured horizontally across the upper leg area to the crotch. The measurement is doubled to arrive at the thigh circumference. In each size listed, the thigh circumference must be equal to, or less than, the above standard measurements in order for the garment to be considered skin tight.



Section 10 Part 2 – Infant, Toddler and Children 51



April 2008



ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL



Maximum Dimensions for Tight-Fitting Garments (In Centimeters (CM) and Inches (IN))



CHEST CM 9-12 mos. 12-18 mos 18-24 mos Size 2 Size 3 Size 4 Size 5 Size 6 Size 6X



48.3 49.5 52.1 52.1 53.3 56 58.4 61 62.9



WAIST IN 19 19.5 20.5 20.5 21 22 23 24 24.75



CM 48.3 49.5 50.8 50.8 52.1 53.3 54.6 55.9 57.2



SEAT IN 19 19.5 20 20 20.5 21 21.5 22 22.5



CM 48.3 50.8 53.3 53.3 56 58.4 61 63.5 65.4



IN 19 20 21 21 22 23 24 25 25.75



UPPER ARM CM 14.3 14.9 15.6 15.6 16.2 16.8 17.5 18.1 18.7



THIGH IN 5.625 5.875 6.125 6.125 6.375 6.625 6.875 7.125 7.375



CM 26.7 28.3 29.5 29.8 31.4 33 34.6 36.2 37.8



WRIST IN 10.5 11.125 11.625 11.75 12.375 13 13.625 14.25 14.875



Section 10 Part 2 – Infant, Toddler and Children 52



April 2008



CM 10.5 10.5 11 11.4 11.7 12.1 12.4 12.7 13



ANKLE IN 4.125 4.125 4.25 4.5 4.625 4.75 4.875 5 5.125



CM 13 13.1 13.6 14 14.9 15.9 16.8 17.8 18.7



IN 5.125 5.125 5.375 5.5 5.875 6.25 6.625 7 7.375



APPENDIX B



Needle Detectors 100% NEEDLE DETECTION IS A REQUIREMENT FOR GARMENTS SHIPPED IN SIZES INFANTS AND TODDLERS.



Broken needles are a common problem at factory level, and it is crucial that no sharp points or sharp edges be found in these garments. 1. A conveyer type needle detector is highly recommended • Belt speed must be set at manufacturer’s setting, and must not be altered. • Manual use of machine is not acceptable 2. The sensitivity of the machine must be set to a 1.2mm iron sphere. The iron sphere is an industry accepted practice for calibration, since: • most needles are made of an iron alloy • a sphere produces a constant signal and is not affected by orientation. 1.2 mm is used, since: • the majority of the breaks occur at the eye of the needle, leaving the tips embedded in the garment. • It has been determined that the smallest size of a needle tip would be 1.2 mm in diameter. 3. Calibration • Calibration is performed by using a 1.2 mm iron sphere. • Manufacturer’s instructions must be followed for proper calibration. • Frequent calibrations---at least twice and day, and always before switching from one garment style to another. A daily record must be kept by the factory and available to Ann Taylor Corporate QC upon request. Note: The weakest point of sensitivity is in the middle of the aperture (#5 in below diagram); however the iron sphere must be placed through the machine in all 9 areas for calibration purposes. POINTS OF CALIBRATION Cross Section of Needle Detector Tunnel Top Middle Bottom



Section 10 - Infant and Toddler Requirements and Testing



7



8



9



4



5



6



1



2



3



53



December 2007



The machine operator must be trained by the needle detector manufacturer to ensure its proper use. Such documentation must be on file. 4. If hand-held or table top needle detectors are used, operators must follow the correct operating procedure and manufacturer’s guidelines. Sensitivity of the machine must still be set to a 1.2 mm iron sphere. 5. For optimal performance, the needle detector machine should be placed: • in a metal free zone • in a stable working environment (i.e. vibration-free, temperature 0-40 C, no humidity/condensation) 6. The following materials/processes may adversely effect the needle detecting process • Stonewashing • Pigments prints that contain iron • Packing material that contains iron • Closed loop accessory (for example, a hasp) • Motor operated machine



Section 10 - Infant and Toddler Requirements and Testing



54



December 2007